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Orchid Extracts and Cosmetic Benefits

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Orchid Extracts and Cosmetic Benefits Orchid Extracts and Cosmetic Benefits Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul and Nattaya Lourith Contents 1 Introduction ................................................................................... 2 2 Causes and Treatment Strategies of Dryness, Greasiness, Wrinkle, and Aging of Skin .... 2 3 Impacts of Radical, UV, and Extracellular Matrix in Firmness, Wrinkle, and Aging of Skin ............................................................................ 3 4 Orchids and Cosmetic Benefits............................................................... 4 4.1 Ansellia africana ...................................................................... 5 4.2 Bulbophyllum scaberulum ............................................................ 5 4.3 Dendrobium spp....................................................................... 5 4.4 Dendrobium candidum ................................................................ 6 4.5 Dendrobium chrysotoxum ............................................................. 6 4.6 Dendrobium denneanum .............................................................. 6 4.7 Dendrobium huoshanense ............................................................ 6 4.8 Dendrobium nobile .................................................................... 7 4.9 Dendrobium officinale ................................................................ 7 4.10 Dendrobium tosaense ................................................................. 8 4.11 Eulophia hereroensis .................................................................. 8 4.12 Eulophia macrobulbon ................................................................ 9 4.13 Eulophia petersii ...................................................................... 9 4.14 Tridactyle tridentata ................................................................... 9 4.15 Vanda coerulea ........................................................................ 9 4.16 Vanda roxburghii ...................................................................... 10 4.17 Vanda teres ............................................................................ 10 5 Conclusions ................................................................................... 16 References ........................................................................................ 16 M. Kanlayavattanakul (*) · N. Lourith School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai, Thailand Phytocosmetics and Cosmeceuticals Research Group, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai, Thailand e-mail: [email protected]; [email protected] © Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2020 1 J.-M. Mérillon, H. Kodja (eds.), Orchids Phytochemistry, Biology and Horticulture, Reference Series in Phytochemistry, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-11257-8_22-1 2 M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith Abstract Orchid has long been used in several traditional medicines all around the world. This medicinal herb is evidenced for immunomodulatory activity and functions as longevity recipe. The most commonly used orchids in complementary medi- cine, Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese recipes, are Vanda and Dendrobium. In addition to these genera, different orchids are potentially to be implied for health promotion aspects including their cosmetic benefits. Orchids with scien- tific supports for cosmetic properties relevant for skin dryness, skin wrinkle, and aging of skin are therefore summarized in this chapter. Furthermore, traditional uses relevant to cosmetic benefits are disclosed as well as those commercialized orchid extracts in cosmetic industry. Thus, the beautiful floriculture orchids and full of availability are appreciable to be used for skin aging protection and treatment products, and flow in the stream of the consumers’ awareness and preference on natural or bio-based products are presented in this context. Keywords Orchid · Cosmetics · Hydration · Moisturizer · Antiaging · Anti-wrinkle 1 Introduction Orchid is evidenced as a therapeutic herb that positively affects human health. This flowering family has variety of species according to its beautiful flower and could be cultivated in all continents except Antarctica and deserts. The economic important of orchid is therefore unlimited for therapeutic uses but included floriculture proposes. That drives orchid into a huge business as a second most cut flowers. Regarding its importance in potted floriculture, orchid bleedings have been continuously taken worldwide resulting of more than 25,000 species majorly being developed in tropical and subtropical regions. Pharmacological activities of orchids liberating variety applications of the herbs in different recipes [1–5] and the specific phytochemistry and biological activities contributing on diseases would be addressed in different chapters of this book. In this chapter, appraisal of orchids for skin treatments is objectively to be focused. The adverse effects of oxidants, radical, inflammatory mediators, and enzymes causing dryness, wrinkle, and aging of skin as well as hyperpigmentation are firstly summa- rized to figure out on these correlations exacerbating aging. 2 Causes and Treatment Strategies of Dryness, Greasiness, Wrinkle, and Aging of Skin When an individual ages, the skin barrier is impaired, and this is known as chrono- logic aging. The turnover rate of epidermal cells slows down, and the vascular network between epidermal cells, which consists of keratinocytes, fibroblasts, Orchid Extracts and Cosmetic Benefits 3 Langerhans cells, and melanocytes, and the skin elastic fibers and fluids are disrupted. In addition, these cells are decreased resulting in skin thickness reduction. Consequently, skin absorption, sensory perception, protection, secretion, and excre- tion are reduced including thermoregulation. Epidermis, particularly the stratum corneum, is thinner leading to skin dryness due to a reduction in water holding capacity resulting in severe skin damage. These cutaneous impairments are caused by a reduction in collagen, elastin, and hyaluronan which are synthesized by epidermal cells [6]. 3 Impacts of Radical, UV, and Extracellular Matrix in Firmness, Wrinkle, and Aging of Skin Skin aging is caused by several factors which damage cell membranes and compo- nents including lipids, proteins, and DNA. Reactive molecules with unpaired elec- trons or free radicals initiate cellular damage known as intrinsic, chronologic, and extrinsic aging. Natural cellular metabolism generates free radicals in a self-defense mechanism and efficiently scavenges these species and neutralizes the radicals; however, these are decreased with age. Dermal damage is also induced by UV exposure at the shorter wavelengths (UVB), which are absorbed by the epidermis prior to irradiation of keratinocytes. Meanwhile, longer wavelengths (UVA) pene- trate the skin and interact with epidermal and dermal cells. Proteolytic enzyme activities are propagated resulting in degradation of collagen and elastin fibers including glycosaminoglycan (GAG), hyaluronan, chondroitin, keratin, dermatan, and heparin. They are linked to proteins such as collagen (28 types) and elastin and act as lubricants associated with the elasticity and tensile strength of skin. In addition, the matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) is a degradation enzyme of the extracellular matrix (ECM), including collagen, elastin, and GAG. These enzymes with 28 members (MMP-1 to MMP-28) are function and accelerated with age and radicals including inflammatory mediators as well. Therefore, deactivation, inhibi- tion, and suppression of MMP, especially collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase, in addition to stimulation of hyaluronan synthase are regarded as the leading strategy in the management of skin aging. In addition, cellular damage results in inflamma- tory mediators generating free radicals and worsens intrinsic aging in turn as well as an induction of MMPs activation [6, 7]. Therefore, antioxidative molecules (e.g., superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase) and nonenzymatic antioxidants (for instance, vitamin E, vitamin C, ubiquinone) to prevent free radical damage which terminate the radicals, protect against radical generation, increase self-defense mechanisms, and act as topical sun protectors limiting radical generation are contributing to antiaging products and have been extensively commercialized as over-the-counter (OTC) products. Antioxidants are therefore accepted as major therapeutic ingredients which decelerate skin aging. Consequently, commercial interest in the incorporation of antioxidants in cosmetic products is increasing, particularly in naturally derived products as they are thought to be milder, safer, and healthier. Topical OTC products 4 M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith are the main source of interest in treating skin disorders, including wrinkles, and protecting against aging, particularly those containing botanical ingredients. Oxidative stresses induce inflammatory responses and activate MAPK pathway as well as NF-κB, AP-1, and pro-inflammatory cytokines and other inflammatory mediators that upregulate MMPs activities that severely propagate aging process of skin, which later generate radicals in the systems, accumulating or worsening aging of skin [8] including dryness of skin. Accordingly, anti-inflammatory and immuno- modulatory agents are used in dermatology [9] not only for combating skin aging but also for allergic skin treatment and suppression of skin dryness. The treatment of excessive skin dryness is the subject of many cosmetic formulations, as this ailment
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