MINDORO 213 Bulalacao © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Calapan Puerto Galera Mt Iglit-Baco National Park Sablayan North Island Pandan Apo Reef

Puerto North North ( p224 ) Mangyan Mangyan ( p225 ) ( p226 ) p226 ( Bulalacao (native buffalo) at buffalo) at (native Apo Reef Natural Park Apo Reef ( p222 ) ( p225 ), gateway to the to the ), gateway p225 ( tamaraw tamaraw Sablayan Prison Farm Sablayan Prison ( p214 ) and diving its underwater ) and diving its underwater p214 ( Mt Iglit-Baco National Park Mt Iglit-Baco frontier of hop the dive marine reserve of marine reserve dangered around Heritage Center Heritage Island Pandan ( p226 ) wonders Galera

Being the first person you know to island- Observing of critically en- the head count attractions the unexpected Discovering on pristine Getting back to nature at the about tribal life Learning and beaches of Exploring the coves

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

If you prefer remote to resort, simply venture southeast of Puerto, or virtually southeast of Puerto, in anywhere to resort, simply venture remote If you prefer The northThe easy just an coast of Mindoro Here, hosts most of Mindoro’s Oriental tourists. Bisected by a virtually by Bisected range – aptly named the High impassable mountain Rolling Moun-

landscape for those travellers who seek it out. landscape for those travellers thriving – in parts of Mindoro, a welcome change of pace and scene to the and provides not to mention diving in pristine Apo Reef. Mangyan tribal culture is alive – sometimes even – sometimes even is alive Mangyan tribal culture not to mention diving in pristine Apo Reef. the dust and grime include some unforgettable island-hopping and hikingthe dust and grime include some unforgettable near Sablayan – Mindoro Occidental. It’s hard going, but rewards for the bad roads, the indifferent food and food for the bad roads, the indifferent Mindoro It’s hard going, but rewards Occidental. some of the Philippines’ best diving around Sabang. best diving around some of the Philippines’ there is accommodation to suit everyone, from beachside shacks to world-class chic, and from beachside shacks accommodation to suit everyone, is there none. With white-sand beaches, secluded coves and tropical hideaways in a stunning harbour and With white-sand beaches, secluded coves none. few hours’ travel from Manila, the dive resort towns around Puerto Galera are second to resort are Galera towns around Puerto the dive from Manila, hours’ travel few Mindoro Mindoro Oriental to the east and Occidental to the west. matic backdrop almost everywhere, the mountains also separate the island’s two provinces: the island’s two provinces: the mountains also separate everywhere, matic backdrop almost tains – rugged Mindoro is part tropical paradise, part provincial backwater. Forming a dra- tains – rugged Mindoro is part tropical paradise, part backwater. provincial ellers. beaten-track combination of charm and challenge should satisfy the most intrepid of trav- the most intrepid of charm and challenge should satisfy combination beaten-track Mindoro is one of the least developed provinces in the Philippines, and its mostly-off-the- and in the Philippines, provinces Mindoro developed is one of the least Mindoro MINDORO 3344) terminal building before resorting toaspe- the day,check withthe ticket inthe offices and expensive outriggers. Even ifit’slate in that you’llcharter oneof theirsmall, rickety last boattoMindoro hasjustleft,hoping pierwho’llclaim thatthe touts atBatangas each of destinationsin these this chapter. There underto theGetting &Awaysections Abrato Calapan, deIlogandSanJosé,refer the Muellepier. for allthemainshipping linessituated at until around4pm,andyouwillfindoffices leaveBangkas regularly duringtheday jump onabangka(woodenoutrigger boat). pier(see Batangas p123 ), and thenyoucan take abusindependentlyfrom Manila to there isthe optionavailable foryouto price. same the Manila toPuertoGaleratripforthe 8541; SwagmanTravel,411AFlores St,Ermita) P700 oneway. arrive inManila around1pm.Si-Kat costs trips departfromMuellepierat8amand and arrivingatMuellepiernoon.Return ataround10.45am pumpboats atBatangas ManilaErmita, at8am,connectingwith Hotel, which islocated inAMabini Stin boats departsfromtheCitystate Tower township of PuertoGalera. TheSi-Kat both inManila andatMuellepierinthe of boat services is bythecombinedair-con busand from Manila toPuertoGalera(viaBatangas) in southernLuzon,toPuerto Galera. The usualroute toMindoroisfromBatangas, Luzon boat. by into SanJosé,youwillbecomingtoMindoro Unless you’re chartering aplaneorflying BOAT to/from Manila fourtimes a week. to/from Manila Airflies (45minutes). Zest PacificCebu andPAL Express each flydaily José, inlittle-travelled MindoroOccidental. Mindoro’s onlycommercialairportisnearSan AIR 214 Getting There&Away Some travellers have scammedby been ofFor details boattravel fromBatangas A convenient waywhich youcantravel For alittlemore troubleandlessmoney, , which has abookingdesklocated MINDORO ORIENTAL Galera ••Puerto Island Cruiser Si-Kat

(Map pp84-5 ; pp84-5; (Map (Map pp84-5 ; pp84-5; (Map alsodoes % % 02-521 523 Bulalacao, onthesoutherntipof theis- ers are slowlybuyinguplandnearremote towns andnarrowbeaches. Resortown- Pet Galera. Puerto to Talipanan, collectively referred toas the groupof resort townsfromSabang butofcapital, mostinterest tovisitors is isitsadministrativepopulous. Calapan isbyfarthewealthierandmoreOriental Of the twoprovinces ontheisland,Mindoro Roxasbetween and Odiongan. car ferry (P175,three hours) runmostdays A large bangka(P160,three hours) and/ora Romblon hours), theentrypoint for Boracay. (P220,fourclock carferries toCaticlan From Roxas there are regular, round-the- Panay Mindoro’s southeastcoast to Gasan. from Pinamalayan(P150,2½hours) on One ortwodailybangkasleave around11am Marinduque boats. passenger cial trip,asthere are often late departures of Aninuan andTalipanan to thewest.Each in thenortheast; and aroundWhite Beach, free) three (these mercifullytraffic Laguna andBigLa Laguna of Sabang,Small La tion of resorts situated aroundthebeaches are PuertoGaleratown,which isacollec- tourism destinations.Thethree main areas bays andislandsisoneof thecountry’stop from Manila, thisgorgeous collectionof come indroves. Justafew hours’ travel time vacationers. short-term anchorage forlong-term yachties aswell Spanish arrived in1572.Itremains afavoured and wasafavoured anchorage wellbefore the naturalharbourissheltereddeep onallsides, air-ah) isSpanish for‘portof thegalleons’.Its Puerto Galera(pronouncedpwair-toe gal- % PUERTO GALERA resort. beach-and-diving land, which mayjusthave themakingsof a MNOO ORIENTAL MINDORO Southeast of Puertoit’smostlysmall And theshort-termers –especiallydivers – 043 /pop28,035 lonelyplanet.com