Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 467 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. their advice and thoughts; Andy Pownall; Gerry OUR READERS Deegan; all you sea urchins – you know who Many thanks to the travellers who used you are, and Jim Boy, Zaza and Eddie; Alexan- the last edition and wrote to us with der Lumang and Ronald Blantucas for the lift helpful hints, useful advice and interesting with accompanying sports talk; Maurice Noel anecdotes: ‘Wing’ Bollozos for his insight on Camiguin; Alan Bowers, Angela Chin, Anton Rijsdijk, Romy Besa for food talk; Mark Katz for health Barry Thompson, Bert Theunissen, Brian advice; and Carly Neidorf and Booners for their Bate, Bruno Michelini, Chris Urbanski, love and support. Christopher Atwood, Claudia Mueller, Conrad Wenham, Dan Roux, Daniel Johnson, David Greg Bloom Bonsor, Debbie Foster, Donavan Albert, For this edition, Johnny Weekend, Windi and Erwin Meijer, Floortje Snels, Guido Nijssen, Anna (my eight-year-old daughter) all did Hagai Benkuzari, Harrie Boin, Ian Drever, hard time as my research assistants. Anna Inna Nesnova, Iven Immer, Jamil Reyes, exhibited particular patience in reviewing Jan Hijman, Jan Ivarsson, Jason Baker, Jen every resort on Siquijor. Thanks to Michelle Broadbent, Jennifer Richardson, Jenny Kim, and Noel for the royal treatment in San Jose. Jessica Horber, Joanna Nelson, Joe Bryant, Thanks to Gavin for the Tacloban hookups, Juerg Buetler, Kamila Divisova, Katharina and to the tourist office in Tacloban. Thanks Asghari , Katrina Smith, King Pia, Laurence to Susan for the lift out of Guiuan. Thanks to Poesy, Marc Iwen, Maria Fatima Bonus, cold San Miguel Pale Pilsen. Thanks to that Michael Young, MIchal Rudziecki, Nicole dude in Catarman who knew everything about Sarkis, Noah Impekoven, Rob Dunn, Robert Northern Samar. Holt, Ruth Mosser, Suzanne Mingoa-Licuanan, Sekeun Daniel Yu, Simon Dabbs, Tanya Bonte, Trent Holden Thomas Sarosy, Vera Chiodi and Will Nahum. A big shout out to all the cool Manileños I met this trip, and for all your invaluable tips and suggestions. Lots of love to all my family AUTHOR THANKS (including the latest addition, my nephew Campbell) and my girlfriend and partner in Michael Grosberg crime, Kate. Finally huge thanks to Laura Thanks to Kublai Millan and Min Ponce for their Crawford for giving me the chance to work on hospitality and warmth; Sunil and Ramesh for another edition for the Philippines, plus my 468 fellow authors and the in-house team who all Paul Stiles worked hard behind the scenes on this book. My thanks goes out to Curtis for great com- pany and cartography, Paul for inside access Anna Kaminski to Boracay, Ray for organising everything, Many thanks to Team Philippines, not least and the many dedicated people in the Phil- to Laura for entrusting me with three chap- ippines Department of Tourism, Region VI, ters, my co-authors for all their helpful input BEHIND THE SCENES who helped me cover a huge area in a limited and Greg in particular for all his advice and amount of time. Mabuhay! warm hospitality. A huge salamat to all who helped me en route, including Rafael Oca and Rafael Dionisio from Circle Hostel (plus Paul ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Melicor), Robert Baradi for handing in my lost wallet, Ela from Bombo Radyo Baguio for Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, tracking me down, the super-helpful proprie- Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- tress of Midtown Inn in Virac, tourism officers ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate in Basco and Sabtang, Kiki for sharing her Classification’, Hydrology and Earth Systems experiences, Kinad for the Cordillera knowl- Sciences, 11, 163344. edge, Ephraim for incomparable motorbike Cover photograph: Rice farmer looking skills, MJ and Jerome Avenue of Bicol Adven- over the mountains, Philippines. Per-Andre ture ATV, and the good people of East Point Hoffman/Getty Hotel by the Sea. Product Editor Assisting Cartographers THIS BOOK Kate Mathews Hunor Csutoros, Gabe This edition of Lonely Planet’s Senior Cartographer Lindquist Philippines guidebook was Julie Sheridan Cover Researcher written by Michael Grosberg, Book Designer Naomi Parker Greg Bloom, Trent Holden, Mazzy Prinsep Thanks to Anna Harris, Anna Kaminski and Paul Assisting Editors Nigel Martin Kemp, Claire Naylor, Stiles. Greg, Michael and Chin, Andrea Dobbin, Kate Karyn Noble, Katie O’Connell, Trent also worked on the Evans, Justin Flynn, Victoria Martine Power, Ellie Simpson, previous edition, along with Harrison, Kate James, Andi Samantha Tyson, Diana Von Adam Karlin. This guide was Jones, Jodie Martire, Jenna Holdt, Lauren Wellicome, Dora produced by the following: Myers, Tracy Whitmey, Simon Whitaker Destination Editor Williamson Laura Crawford ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 469 Index A Aquino, Corazon (Cory) Basdio Reef 316 White Beach Abra de Ilog 208 339, 422 Basey 322 (Marinduque) 189 Abu Sayyaf 339, 422 Aquino III, Benigno 342, Basilica Minore del Santo White Beach (Puerto 414, 423 Galera) 198-9 accommodation 20, 442-3, Niño 279 see also individual Aquino (Jr), Benigno 421, basketball 429 beer 80, 434 locations 422 Bataan Death March 106-7, festivals 66 activities 39-42, see also architecture 23, 427 109, 420 bees 310 individual activities area codes 19, 446 Bataan Peninsula 103, 106-7 Benguet 134 Adams 128 Argao 302 Batad 150-1 Benoni 349-50 Aeta village 261 Aroroy Wacky Rodeo 183 Batan Island 159-61 Besao 139-40 Aguinaldo, General Emilio Arroyo, Gloria 422-3 Batanes 16, 158-62, 158, 16 betel nuts 21, 141 95, 418-19 art galleries, see museums Batangas 99-100 Bicol 13, 166-80 & galleries Aguinaldo Mansion 95 bathrooms 447 bicycle travel 451, see also arts 426-9 Aguirangan 171 Batongan Caves 183 mountain biking aswang 425, 428 Agutayan Island 36 bats 104, 156, 216 Bilar 315 Ati-Atihan 24, 227 air pollution 458 Bayawan 253 Biliran Island 327-30, ATMs 445 air travel beaches 12 328 to/from the Philippines ABCD Beach 337 Biliran Volcano 329 449-50 Binondo 59-61, 76-7, B Alona Beach 308, 309 60 within the Philippines Babuyan Islands 160 Bagasbas Beach 42, 166 birds 437, see also 450-1 individual species Baclayon 314 Bato Beach 335 airlines 450, 451 birdwatching 41 Bacolod 240-6, 242 Baybay Beach 228 Alcantara 269 Kalanggaman 250 Bacuit Archipelago 11, 403- Blue Lagoon 127, 7 Allen 332 Olango Island 291 5, 404, 11 Bobon Beach 331 Alona Beach 308, 309 Talabong Mangrove Forest Bagasbas 166-7 Bounty Beach 292 Ambuwaya Lake 152 & Bird Sanctuary 260 Bagongbong Falls 329 Buktot Beach 203 American Memorial Biri Island 332 Baguio 128-36, 130-1 Cemetery 62 Bulabog Beach 42, 211, Black Nazarene Bais City 260-1 213, 215, 219-21 American takeover 419-20 Procession 24, 66 Bakle’d Kiangan 152 Kagusua Beach 265 Anda 315-16 Blue Hole 36, 270 Long Beach (Cateel) 367 Angeles 107-8 Baler 153-5, 154 Blue Lagoon 127, 7 Long Beach (San Anilao 100-1 Balicasag Island 36, 311, 35 Boac 187-8 Vicente) 392 animals 436-8, see also Balinsasayao Lake 260 boat travel 42, see also Paliton Beach 264 individual species, zoos Bamboo Organ Festival 95 sailing Pansian Beach 127 & wildlife centres Banaue 146-9, 147 to/from the Anini-y 232 Bandila-an Mountain View Patar Beach 115 Philippines 450 Antequera 313 Park 266 Sabang Beach 153 within the Antique Province 230-2 Bandila-an Nature Salagdoong Beach 265 Philippines 451-2 Anuplig Falls 128 Centre 266 Saud Beach 126 Bobon Beach 331 Apo Island 253-4 Bangao 136 Seven Commandos Bocos 146-7 Beach 405 Apocalypse Now 41, 42, Bangao Mummy Caves 136 Bohol 15, 304-17, 305 101, 153 bangkas 451 Subic Bay 105 Bokong Waterfalls 140 Apulit Island 395 Bangon Falls 334 Sugar Beach 251 Bolinao 115 Bantayan Island 295-7 Tahusan Beach 326 Bomod-ok Falls 140 bargaining 21 White Beach (Batan Bonifacio, Andrés 59, 418, Island) 161 Map Pages 000 Barlig 144 428 White Beach (Boracay) Photo Pages 000 Basco 159-60, 16 Bontoc 142-4, 143 211, 213-24, 212, 214 470 books 414 Calangaman 293 Hyop-Hoyopan Cave 176 children, travel with 443 cooking 431 Calapan 201-2 Jiabong caves 334 Manila 54 history 420 Calatrava 269 Kalanay Caves 183 Children’s Island 116 Boracay 14, 36, 211-24, Calauit Game Preserve Lamanok Island 316 Chinese Cemetery 59-60 211, 14 & Wildlife National Langun-Gobingob Chocolate Hills 315 accommodation 216-21 Park 412 cave 334 churches & cathedrals 418 INDEX activities 213-15 Calauit Island 412 Ligid Cave 36 Baclayon Church 314 drinking & nightlife 223-4 Calayan 160 Lumiang Burial Cave Basilica Minore del food 221-3 Calbayog 333 138-9 Santo Niño 279 B- information 224 Calicoan Island 337 Luyang Cave 186 Basilica of St Martin de C sights 211, 213 Calintaan