DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, & the New Europe

July 28, 1999 www.gemut.com Gemütlichkeit’s site on the World Wide Web is now in operation. We THE LÖTSCHENTAL plan for www.gemut.com to become a A spectacularly beautiful Swiss valley that is quickly and easily accessed by must-stop on the Internet for any automobile or rail yet remains remote and undiscovered. traveler to Germany, Austria, and/ or Switzerland, especially for sub- he spine is the Rhône river stein tunnel which connects Kander- scribers. and its valley. Sticking out on steg in the Bernese Oberland with both sides of it are wiggly ribs the Rhône Valley, the valley’s tiny Here are the site’s main features: T of intersecting valleys accessed by were accessible only via • Archives/Members’ Library. dead-end roads that snake high into high — 8,200 feet — mountain So far we have uploaded 84 issues, the Alps. In these upper valleys are passes. Its inhabitants were virtually from 1993 through June 1999. The found some of Switzerland’s best- cut off from the outside world. remaining six years of Gemütlichkeit known resorts: Zermatt, Saas Fee, Among the almost tribal tradi- — 1987 through 1992 — will be Crans Montana, Verbier. Some, like added over the next couple of Evoléne, Leukerbad and tions still observed in the valley is months. Subscribers can access this Zinal are not so well- By Bob the Tschäggätä, a mostly fur cos- Bestor tume with a large bell hung around searchable database for $4 per known — at least by Amer- month (minimum six months). icans. One of the most obscure is the the waist and a wooden face mask Those who enroll will ultimately Lötschental, a valley that holds hard covering the head. It is the mask that interests most. Hand-carved by have unlimited access to every to some ancient and mysterious Gemütlichkeit ever printed — cur- traditions and whose residents speak one of only two or three local arti- rently 151 issues — and also be able a special Swiss-German dialect. sans, each is a uniquely wild and to download the latest issue well spooky work of art. The fiercest are before it gets in the mail. Nonsub- The University of Basel has made in the of by scribers will pay substantially more evidence of a 1,000-year-old settle- Anges Rieder-Jerien. You can see for this service. To enroll, email a ment in the Lötschental, but prior to her studio — and hundreds of user name, a password and a credit 1913 and the building of the Goppen- Continued on page 3… card with expiration date to [email protected]. • Hot Deals. We often hear of European Factory Delivery hotel, air and car rental deals that have a short window of opportuni- e’re whizzing along the tive, and well worth the time. ty. By the time we print them in the Autobahn, Beethoven newsletter, the deal is gone. Now blaring from the CD Rides around Porsche’s Weis- W sach test track are included, as is a you will be able to find them at player, enveloped by that special gemut.com. new car smell. Our car. We’re fascinating factory tour of the among the many Americans who Porsche plant in Zuffenhausen, a • Readers’ Comments. Log on have traveled to Europe to pick up Stuttgart suburb. Weissach, about and give us your trip feedback: 20 miles from Zuffenhausen, houses favorite hotels, best restaurants, bad new cars from European By Vickie auto makers, combining the automaker’s research and experiences, good deals, etc. When Ferguson the charm of Europe development facilities. The test fully operational, this part of the site track is a road course that winds will be searchable, so if you’re with the fun of driving our own dream vehicle on vacation. through the countryside. Engineers looking for a hotel, say, in Berlin, who developed our model drove us you’ll be able to quickly locate all Back in the states, we had or- along the test track. R & D uses the the entries about Berlin hotels. This dered our Porsche Boxster from a track constantly so innovations can will be a free area, open to anyone. local dealer, then signed up with the be tested by designers as soon as • Links. Here you’ll find a list of Porsche Cars North America Grand new models clear the assembly line. some of the best websites for travel- Tour, held twice a year. Buyers don’t Before touring the factory, we ers to Germany, Austria and Swit- have to take the tour and may pick stopped at the Porsche Museum zerland: tourist office sites, rail up an auto on their own. But we Continued on page 2… found the tour interesting, informa- Continued on page 4… July, 1999 value in the city. mgulasch mit Pilzen, Nudeln und Salat DEAR SUBSCRIBER (braised veal in a cream-based sauce Continued from page 1 This time we phoned ahead for a same-day reservation which was with mushrooms, noodles and salad) schedules, airline sites, and dozens fortunate because the hotel was full for 17.5 DM ($9). A small glass (3/ more. that night. We paid 210 DM ($111) 10th liter) of made-on-the-premises beer was 3.9 DM ($2) and a half-liter • Car rental and rail passes. Use for a very small but nicely furnished was 5.9 DM ($3). A brass band these pages to check rail prices, order double, Number 358. Amenities played starting at 11:30am. The passes or get a quote on a rental car. above the norm, such as a radio in brewery regularly hosts local bands. Free area. the bathroom, and quality furnish- ings, demonstrate owner Christa If you’re in the vicinity, the Freiburg We hope you will consider the site Meier’s determination to keep the fire department’s band will be there an added benefit to your subscription. Post competitive. The breakfast Sunday, August 29. Use it to find the latest Swissair deals, buffet included scrambled eggs and • That evening we saw a Freiburg get recommendations from fellow bacon. phenomenon. Near the beer garden, travelers, or check-out the best Ger- hundreds of students gathered in the many, Austria and Switzerland travel In a city which lacks charming, Augustinerplatz. They came to talk websites. This is just a beginning. family run accommodations, the Post and to eat and drink what they had Soon we’ll be adding pictures of is a busy hotel used mostly by busi- brought with them. There were no reviewed hotels and restaurants to ness travelers. Nonetheless, it is well- sidewalk cafes, no tables, no one our Member’s Library. Perhaps even maintained and convenient to both selling anything, they just congregat- sound and video. Take a look and let the rail station and the Altstadt. ed at this spot to enjoy the night, us know what you like and don’t like. The famed Zum Roten Bären, sitting in groups of varying sizes on More Trip Notes which claims to be Germany’s oldest walls, steps and on cobblestones. hotel, costs $20 to $40 per night more Here are notes from a brief late- than the Post and, since it is written • Freiburg, with its network of May visit to Freiburg im Breisgau, at up in virtually every Fodor, Frommer, narrow streets and alleys and many the southern end of the Black Forest. Fielding, etc., guidebook, is full of small shops and restaurants, is a • The Markgräfler Hof, one of tourists. On our last stay there we great town for strolling and window Germany’s great unsung restaurants, found both the service and the ac- Continued on page 8… is under new management and commodations wanting. Notes for Readers totally different: menu, decor, peo- Still a good and inexpensive • Foreign currency prices are converted to ple, everything. The man who made choice in the country a few minutes U.S. dollars at the exchange rate in effect at it go, Hans Leo Kempchen, has ‘up east of Freiburg is the Gasthaus zum the time of publication. stakes’ and gone. Anybody know Kreuz (Grosstalstr. 28, D-79117 • Hotel prices listed are for one night. where? Kappel, tel. +49/0761/620550, fax Discounts are often available for longer • We arrived in Freiburg by train 806820). The restaurant is especially stays. which made the Park Hotel Post, recommended. • All hotel prices include breakfast unless (Eisenbahnstr. 35, D-79098, tel. +49/ otherwise noted. • For an inexpensive meal, good 0761/31011, fax 31680, rooms from beer and convivial surroundings in • Local European telephone area codes 159 to 289 DM/$84-$152) about three Freiburg, try Feierling Biergarten carry the “0” required for in-country dial- blocks from the station, a logical ing. To phone establishments from out- (Gerberau Str.). The daily special on choice. Gemütlichkeit last reviewed side the country, such as from the USA, do Sunday, May 30, 1999, was Kalbsrah- the Post in 1991 and called it the best not dial the first “0”.

Vol. 13, No. 7 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY July, 1999 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor: Robert H. Bestor Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Contributing Editors: C. Fischer, R. Holliday, Adequate 4 - 7 Nikki Goth Itoi Unacceptable 0 - 3 Web Master: Paul T. Merschdorf Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Subscription Dept: Andy Bestor, K. Steffans Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published monthly by UpCountry Publish- Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 ing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521-6722 or 541/ Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year for 12 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this publication, the publishers Special G Designation can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. By virtue of location, decor, charm, warmth of management, or POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: combination thereof, an especially pleasant establishment. Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520 Gemütlichkeit 2 July, 1999 Lötschental Info into the valley — or by car. From THE LÖTSCHENTAL Spiez take the road into the moun- Population: sparse Continued from page 1 tain to and board the car Altitude: 1217 meters/3,993 feet masks — by making an appointment train (25 Sfr./$16) for the 15-minute through the tourist office. Tourist Information: Lötschental Touris- run to Goppenstein. From there, mus, CH-3918 Wiler, tel. +41/027/938 turn left and its only a few minutes The masks and costumes are 8888, fax 938 8880, tourist info +41/027/ into the valley. From the main worn only a couple of times each 939 1515, Internet: www. loetschental.ch, email: [email protected] highway that runs along the Rhône year, most spectacularly in a parade from Lake Geneva to Brig, look for on the Saturday before Ash Wednes- Rail travel time from Goppenstein to: Bern 1:13 hr/min signs to the turn north to Goppen- day. Only bachelors participate in Brig 0:25 hr/min stein. From the river it’s only a few the Tschäggätä and, according to Ms. Geneva 3:01 hr/min minutes up a very good but twisty Rieder-Jerien, their identities are Interlaken 1:02 hr/min road. never revealed. Lucerne 2:40 hr/min Milan 2:17 hr/min For those seeking a self-catering Another tradition is that of the Montreux 1:03 hr/min vacation rentals, the Lötschental “red soldiers.” Wearing white and Sion 0:51 hr/min should be considered. And, like scarlet uniforms adorned with gold Spiez 0:40 hr/min almost any place in Switzerland, it Thun 0:50 hr/min buttons, swords, rifles and a tall, makes a good headquarters for the white feather, they are descendants Zermatt 2:02 hr/min Zürich 2:34 hr/min traveler with a rail pass. Many of men who fought in foreign wars. interesting destinations are within a Arriving by train: They march with a brass band on the two-hour train ride. Feast of Corpus Christi. The custom Fast trains on the Basel-Bern-Brig-Milan dates from 1625 when returning line stop at Goppenstein at least hourly in If you choose the Lötschental be both directions; from there it is only a few warriors began to save their parade prepared for the quiet, country life. minutes by postal bus to the main villag- Skiers and summer visitors who uniforms for wearing on Sundays es: , , Wiler, Ried, . enjoy the outdoors will find plenty and holidays to honor God. The Lötschentaler Wanderpass: to do for a week or so, but less active Though tourism began in 1972 The Lötschental is a network of roads, travelers who want more than the with the building of the Lauchernalp trails, lifts, and mountain huts. With the Wanderpass, walkers get a week’s unlim- glorious scenery and a good book, ski area, the valley retains the ited access to the valley’s Postal Bus will have to rely on a car or rail pass quaintness and charm that many system and to the cable car and lifts, as for day-trips out of the valley. larger, more popular Valasian resorts well as fee entrance to the Lötschentaler have sacrificed for financial success. Museum. Price is 59 Sfr./$39 per person Hotels or 119 Sfr./$78 for a family. Hotel Edelweiss Most buildings are of the custom- Ski Weeks: ary rough wood, blackened by age The tourist office (see above) offers one- The best hotel we saw EDITOR’S and weather, and the accommoda- week Alpine and Nordic ski packages that in the Lötschental and one CHOICE tions are for the most part simple. include hotel accommodations with of the most remote. Its breakfast, lift pass, ski bus pass, and At the same time, the tunnel has village, Blatten, is as far up the welcome drink. For Apline skiers, the per valley as you can go in winter. brought 21st century civilization to person price for the package in category B the valley’s residents. Using the hotels is 592 Sfr. ($395) and 648 Sfr. ($426) A member of the Relais du country’s nonpareil system of rail, in category A hotels. The cross country Silence association since 1994, the busses and tunnels, a tourist office package is 409 Sfr. ($269) in category B Edelweiss started as a small grocery employee in Wiler told Gemütlichkeit hotels and 466 ($306) in category A hotels. store in 1923, became a hotel-restau- he and his wife go to the movies in Lötschentaler Museum: rant in 1964 and was fully renovated Bern and are home a little over an Displays fine art as well as artifacts from in 1993. hour after the credits have rolled. the valley’s 4,000-year history, including early traditional dwellings and a bow Its guestrooms are the largest Goppenstein is on the international from the Bronze Age. Located in Kippel Lötschberg-Simplon railway line and most comfortable of the hotels and open mid-June through mid-October, discussed here. Our recommenda- (Bern-Brig-Milan) and a fast train Tuesday through Sunday, 10am-6pm, stops about twice each hour. closed 12pm-2pm. Entrance: 4 Sfr. ($2.60), tion is Number 202 with slanting 3.5 Sfr. ($2.30) with guest card, 2.5 Sfr. pine ceiling and a balcony with Civilization in the Lötschental is ($1.65) for student, and 1 Sfr. ($0.66) for sweeping views of the valley. Num- mainly four small villages: Ferden, kids 6-16. ber 203 is a large single with com- Kippel, Wiler and Blatten. The one Vacation Rentals: fortable sitting area. All rooms are with the best buildings is Kippel, the The valley has several dozen chalets, equipped with direct-dial phones, ski area is accessed at Wiler, Blatten apartments and even Alpine huts avail- TV, radio and minibar. is the most rustic and Ferden is able for short-term rental. Most are in the perhaps the least interesting. 400 to 700 Sfr. ($263-$460) per week range. Those who pick the Edelweiss Contact the tourist office for the brochure would be well advised to also One can reach the valley easily by Verzeichnis der vermietbaren Ferienwohnun- choose the half-board option (30 gen Chalets, Alphütten. rail — train to Goppenstein and bus Continued on page 4… Gemütlichkeit 3 July, 1999 accommodations perched on the an assembly, this means the robots LÖTSCHENTAL mountain side several hundred feet handle first a 996 coupe, then a 986 Continued from page 3 above Wiler on the ski slope. Gues- Boxster, perhaps a Cabriolet next. Sfr./$20). The hotel’s kitchen pro- trooms are plain but spacious and several can accommodate three to Workers rotate jobs weekly, duces good, simple meals and the which not only relieves boredom cellar is stocked entirely with Vala- four persons. In winter the hotel is accessible only by cable car. with repetitive tasks but gives the sian wines. factory a work-crew that knows the The Edelweiss also has a small Daily Rates: Singles 84 Sfr. ($55), assembly process for all the cars. In vacation house suitable for two to doubles 138 Sfr ($91). Half-pension the body shop, automatic carts bring four persons which it rents for 400 to 20 Sfr. ($13) parts to workers at nine stations, 570 Sfr. ($266-$380) per week, de- Contact: Hotel zur Widi, Postfach each cart “programmed” for the pending on the time of year and 248, CH-3918 Wiler/Lauchernalp, particular model passing through. number of persons. Breakfast and tel. +41/27 939 19 89, fax +41/027/ Two shifts keep the factory hum- dinner is available at the hotel for 939 20 19, email: [email protected], ming. A sense of pride is evident 217 Sfr. ($145) per person (150 Sfr./ proprietor: Familie Bellwald-Brenner throughout. Rating: QUALITY 9/20, VALUE 12/20 $100 for kids). Courtesy of Uncle Sam and the Daily Rates: Singles 85 to 125 Sfr. Hotel-Restaurant Sporting 3rd Armored Division, we had lived ($56-$82), doubles 140 to 210 DM A simple, very rustic hotel and as newlyweds for about a year in ($92-$138). Half-pension 30 Sfr. ($20) restaurant directly on the main Frankfurt in the late 1950s. This time, Contact: Hotel Edelweiss, CH-3919 valley road and across the street as we began our driving tour, we Blattentel, tel. +41/027 939 13 63, fax from the Lauchernalp cable car. skipped the big cities for the country 939 10 53, email: inns and small hotels of scenic Ger- Daily Rates: Singles 65 to 75 Sfr. [email protected], proprietor: many. ($43-$49), doubles 130 to 150 Sfr. Charlotte und Lukas Kalbermatten ($86-$99). With two weeks of free insurance, Rating: QUALITY 13/20, VALUE 14/20 Contact: Hotel-Restaurant Sporting, we planned our own itinerary using Hotel Nest-und CH-3918 Wiler/Lötschental/Wallis, one of the excellent guides available The Lötschental’s oldest hotel. tel. +41/027/939 13 77, fax 939 10 87, for just such a purpose. We chose one Guestrooms and bathrooms are a bit proprietor: Familie A. Rieder major circle of Bavaria and another route in the Black Forest before smaller than at the Edelweiss. Room Rating: QUALITY 9/20, VALUE 10/20 returning to Zuffenhausen where amenities are similar to the Edel- Hotel Fafleralp weiss except that there are no TVs, we’d leave the car for stateside This rough little gem at the re- though they can be rented. delivery. mote northeast end of the valley is Has the reputation as the best open only from May to October. A Our first stop took us almost into food in the valley. Classic dishes favorite of hikers, it is fully booked Austria as we stayed at the Zur Post such as veal steak with morel mush- most weekends so reserve in ad- in Inzell, about 25 kilometers (16 room sauce and noodles (38 Sfr. $25), vance. Excellent kitchen. miles) almost straight west of sauteed chopped veal “Zürich style” Salzburg. Situated in the center of the Daily Rates: Singles 53 to 76 Sfr. with Rösti (32 Sfr./$21), and game village, it was nicely painted and ($35-$50), doubles 106 to 152 Sfr. dishes, take a back seat to such local balconied on the outside, and inside ($70-$100). specialities as a ragout of Valasian featured warmly paneled dining lamb with house-made noodles (20 Contact: Hotel Fafleralp, CH-3919 rooms. Fafleralp, tel. +41/027/939 14 15, fax Sfr./$13) and Valasian rack of lamb Bedrooms are comfortable, and 939 14 53, proprietor: Christian with polenta (32 Sfr./$21). the breakfast buffet is ample, serving Henzen both hot and cold items. Reproduc- Daily Rates: Singles 65 to 85 Sfr. Rating: QUALITY 12/20, VALUE 14/20 ($43-$56), doubles 125 to 160 Sfr. tions dot the premises which also ($82-$105). Half-pension 31 Sfr. ($20) FACTORY AUTO PURCHASE feature a large indoor swimming pool. Contact: Hotel Nest- und Bi- Continued from page 1 etschhorn, CH-3919 Ried b. Blatten Fast food outlets haven’t yet (Mercedes also has a museum in the (Lötschental), tel. +41/027/939 11 06, touched the town which we’ll re- Stuttgart area), featuring an assort- fax 939 18 22, Web: member for beer, bakeries, and ment of exhibits celebrating the 50th www.loetschental.ch/nest-bietsch, exquisite embroidery. year of the company. proprietor: Fam. Erwin Bellwald- However, rain encouraged us to Grob The first surprise on the factory move on toward the Black Forest Rating: QUALITY 10/20, VALUE 12/20 tour was how much work is cleverly area. We stopped first at a small inn, handled by robots. The robotics are Hotel zur Widi another Zur Post, in Ettal, still in programmed for whichever model Bavaria, on the road between Serious skiers and walkers will comes down the line for welding. want to consider these rustic family Since Porsche often mixes models in Continued on page 5… Gemütlichkeit 4 July, 1999 Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Ober- ammergau. We had time to tour the local monastery and enjoy its gar- Buying a Car in Europe dens. Then it was on to the sunshine Sellers: Contact any authorized deal- or breakfast is served. A 90-minute of Lake Constance. er for BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Saab, factory tour is also available. BMW is Although we loved traveling the Volvo, or Porsche. For the Grand Tour, in Munich and offers 24 free drop-off back-roads, we used the Autobahn to contact a local dealer or Porsche Cars points where the owner may leave the speed us along when we changed North America Inc. at 980 Hammond car for shipment home. Some compa- areas. Contrary to popular belief, Drive, Ste. 1000, Atlanta, Ga. 30328 or nies charge extra for drop-off if at a Germany’s 6,000-mile network of call 770-290-3500. different site. Check with your dealer. superhighways of four to six lanes, Fast Lane Travel, Inc. also offers Por- Volvo delivers at Gothenburg, Swe- do have occasional speed limits, sche trips. Tel. 800/823-1188, Fax 303/ den, a port city with ferries to Europe. posted in kilometers. We saw 120 km 876-4170 or e-mail: [email protected] Saab’s delivery is at the factory in (75 mph) signs quite frequently; a top & [email protected]. Other manu- Trollhattan, Sweden, but you can take end of about 130 km (81 mph) is facturers with delivery programs: delivery in 11 other European cities. recommended. Drivers universally Mercedes-Benz, 800-367-6372; Saab Savings: Some manufacturers dis- blink their lights to pass, give turn USA, 800-955-9007; Volvo North count cars delivered in Europe and/ signals when exiting, and are courte- American Corp., 212-754-3300; BMW or include extras such as complimen- ous in the extreme — even while (Customer Service), 800-831-1117. tary hotel stays, meals and transpor- they fly down their highways. A couple of subscribers have recom- tation to the pickup site. Volvo has Meersburg is a medieval town on mended Fred Opert Cars, which complimentary airfare from 22 US. Lake Constance (Germans call it the claims to arrange more European de- cities. Since these extras can change, Bodensee). We stayed at the Wein- liveries than any dealer in the U.S. check with your dealer or manufac- stube Löwen, a wisteria-covered Contact: Fred Opert Cars, 111 Spring turer. Porsche provided a discounted tavern-hotel located in the heart of St, Ramsey NJ 07446, tel. 201-327-1111, hotel stay at the Graf Zeppelin Hotel the cobblestoned old city. During fax 201-327-8222. in Stuttgart as well as two dinners and most of the day, Meersburg allows a lunch at the factory, all accompa- no cars but relents long enough to let Insurance: Porsche offers two weeks nied by German wines and beer. The visitors load and unload. Good comprehensive insurance with zero- VAT (Value Added Tax) is paid but parking is nearby. Ferries ply the deductible. Mercedes gives 15 days of refunded with interest when the car is scenic lake and the sun we’d missed similar coverage. BMW offers 30 days delivered in the U.S. was shining every day. Numerous of insurance with a 10 percent deduct- Internet: An entire book offering tips cafes and Bierstuben served delicious ible for theft only. All will extend cov- about renting, leasing or buying cars meals and often featured the fresh erage for a fee, but be forewarned that in Europe is available at fish of the area. One day we took the insurance is quite expensive for non- www.ideamerge.com/motoeuropa; boat to Lindau at the opposite end of residents who want extended stays. click on “guidebook.” The site also the lake where we enjoyed a marvel- Volvo and Saab charge for their 15- offers links to manufacturers, dealers ous meal overlooking the harbor. day coverage from a few hundred dollars up, depending on whether you and insurance agents, as well as pro- After departing Meersburg we extend your stay. viding information about taxes in var- stopped a few miles away at the ious countries and depreciation you Basilika Birnau, a jewel of a Baroque Pickup: For Porsche, it’s Zuffenhaus- might be able to claim by adding vaca- church which was consecrated in en, a Stuttgart suburb where Grand tion mileage to your car. 1750. With detailed guidebooks Tour members are taken by bus. Mer- available in English, the magnificent cedes uses the Sindelfingen Delivery Helpful books: Charming Small Hotel sanctuary came alive with its altars, Center near Stuttgart with fully Guides, published by Duncan Peters- statuary, and gold leaf. equipped guest facilities and two res- en, and Germany’s Best-Loved Driving taurants where a complimentary lunch Tours by Frommer. — Vickie Ferguson Bypassing the Autobahn for the winding roads of the Black Forest like home and it did. preparation that we ate all our din- area, we stopped first at ners there. Hinterzarten, where Frau Pfeiffer Next stop was with the Scherer family at the Hotel Dorer in Schön- In nearby Furtwangen we spent offers an exquisite small hotel, the most of one day at the Deutsches Sassenhof. Although it housed no wald, in the heart of the Black Forest, 49 kilometers (31 miles) northeast of Uhrenmusem (clock museum). restaurant, many were within walk- Located appropriately in the center ing distance. However, her break- Freiburg. Each evening a fixed-price meal is served in the small, paneled of the German clock industry, this fasts and daily 4pm tea were delight- museum holds the largest collection fully served to the accompaniment of dining room with a choice of several entrees. We decided to try one meal of clocks in Germany. Displays classical music in dining rooms with illustrate the history, art and technol- crisp white linens. The brochure had and were so overwhelmed by the quality of the food as well as its ogy of clocks. Clock making around said that this rare hotel would feel Continued on page 8… Gemütlichkeit 5 July, 1999 Advice from a Viennese Gourmand brother take care of this distinctive Heuriger in Stammersdorf. Try the soufflés. Where to Eat in Vienna Stammersdorfer Strasse 78, tel. 292 4106. Otto Wiesenthal, owner of Vien- and restaurant with a stylish ambi- na’s charming Hotel-Pension Alts- ance and a strict distinction between Off the Beaten Path tadt, is a connoisseur of the good life the types of cuisine, depending on Cafe Drechsler and an expert witness on Vienna’s the time of day. Pizzas and simple After a night that did not want to restaurants, from the simplest Beisl to meals especially for lunch, sophisti- end this coffee house opens its doors the fanciest Michelin-starred establish- cated cuisine in the evening. Lots of at 4am. A Wiener Schnitzel for ment. For his guests, he has published a candles. breakfast and the newspaper fresh booklet that lists his favorites in several Himmelpfortgasse 3, tel. 513 off the press may not be everybody’s categories. He has given us permission to 79130 liking, but some just don’t want to pass on some of his capsule reviews. Crêperie Brasserie Spittelberg go home. Mediterranean Located on the Spittelberg with a Linke Wienzeile 22, tel. 587 85 80. A Tavola wonderful outdoor seating area, this Alt Wien place offers French specialities and The little sister of Cantinetta A heavy spot in the Bäckerstrasse especially a large selection of creative Antinori offers the homey comforts close to the Bermuda Triangle. crepes. Try the excellent moules of a simple Italian Osteria. High Meeting point of artists and the left mariniere in mussel season. Young standards with homemade pasta and half of Austrian politics. The proper clients. great lamb dishes. Large selection of place for the famous last glass after a quality wines which are also offered Spittelberggasse 12, tel. 526 15 70. long night in Vienna bars. by the glass. Heuriger Bäckerstrasse 6, tel. 512 52 22 Weihburggasse 3-5, tel. 512 79 55, Zimmerman Gmoa Keller fax 512 79 551 Located on the Grinzing border Nothing has changed in this Il Mare in Armbrustergasse, this Heuriger place since the 50s when it had its A firmly headed family endeavor offers space from 6 up to 20 guests. heydays. The same floor, the same with possibly the best wood oven Lovingly decorated, a place with tables, and the same hostesses; two pizzas of Vienna. Always booked style and a gorgeous garden. The unique characters who already solid and well attended by staff of cuisine is distinctly different from the kicked out a federal chancellor or the publishing houses in the sur- area’s tourist Heurigen places. Beau- two. Self-service. roundings. Plain ambiance with tiful people. Heumarkt 25, tel. 712 53 10 simple wooden tables. Grappa for Armbrustergasse 5, tel. 37 22 11-0 real grown ups. Ernas Abendland Am Reisenbergweg Zieglergasse 15, tel. 523 74 94 A place without a menu, where Once upon a time a dentist want- actually most people are acquainted Kornat ed to convert an old Heuriger into a somehow, everybody talks to each The forte of this small restaurant villa, but he did not count on the other, most of the time someone sits is the freshly prepared seafood in all strict rules. Now his son runs this at the piano and plays. A genuine variations. It is strongly advised to Heurigen with the greatest view over spot for communication. The food is follow the recommendations of the Vienna. A place to hang out and unspectacular but well prepared. waiters since some of the freshest dream - especially in the afternoon. Gardegasse 2, tel. 526 96 78. fish is not even mentioned on the Oberer Reisenbergweg 15, tel. 320 Dubrovnik menu. 93 93 Marc Aurel-Strasse 8, tel. 535 6518 One of the oldest Yugoslav Schreiberhaus restaurants of Vienna, adjacent to Martinelli Located in the center of Neustift Stadtpark. You really feel as if you This Italian place in the beautiful- am Walde, this large country house were in another country, the authen- ly renovated Palais Harrach has been is a popular Heuriger for family ticity is amazing. A favorite among offering consistently fine quality parties and corporate events. Deco- American guests of the hotels close since its opening. In the summer, the rated in comfort and style. Large by. outdoor seating area on the patio is terraced garden. Excellent food. Am Heumarkt 5, tel. 713 71 02. one of the most gorgeous in the city. Rathstrasse 54, tel. 440-3844. Beware of the charming escort. Music Wieninger Freyung 3/Palais Harrach, tel. Beograd This place offers the best bottled 535 30 87 You should not enter this place wine within Vienna’s city limits. which is close to Naschmarkt before Danieli Fritz Wieninger is one of Austria’s 8pm, by which time the musicians A mixture between Italian Osteria top young vintners. His mother and Gemütlichkeit 6 July, 1999 start their sobbing melodies. Typical ska 11; tel. 042-2-2051 1369, fax 042-2- weren’t all that brave and stayed at cuisine with barbecue and caviar. 2051 1502; e-mail hotel@domus- Hotel Slon (Slovenska 34, 1000 The enchanted audience loves it. henrici.cz). They have a great web Ljubljana, tel. 061/1701100, fax Mühlgasse l/Schikanedergasse 7, site at www.domus-henrici.cz. We 271164), but it was wonderful, and tel. 587 74 44 made all our arrangements by e-mail we were again treated royally. If you and fax. are interested in some feedback re Wiener Rathauskeller eating in Vienna and Slovenia, car The hotel is in a building dated Those who really believe they rental in Ljubljana, or hotels in either 1372 and has about eight rooms have to hear typical Viennese music place, let me know. and practice their waltzing, have opening onto a lovely terrace over- KAY NYBERG found the perfect spot here in the looking a peaceful valley. It is a short BATON ROUGE LA cellar halls of the Rathauskeller. walk to the castle and a little longer Cuisine is good standard. Parking is (about 15 minutes) to the old square. (Ed. Note: We love feedback. By all difficult because of the tour buses. We stayed in room Number seven, a means, tell us your favorites and your Rathausplatz l, tel. 40512 19-0. suite consisting of a living area with un-favorites. When mentioning hotels fold-out couch, bedroom, and the and restaurants, please include, if pos- Figlmüller - Grinzing biggest bathroom I’ve seen in a hotel sible, street addresses, email addresses, For several years the famous (19,950 Ck for 3 nights, which is and phone and fax numbers.) Vienna Schnitzel place has had a about $195 per night, including extra subsidiary in Grinzing. The first charge for our teenager’s bed). Fraundorfer Smitten Grinzinger Heurigenshow performs I’m a very recent subscriber to Everything is very modern. I here, with musicians and singers your newsletter. In my first issue unfortunately arrived in Prague sick, presenting a charming mix of typical you wrote about favorite places to so I stayed for two days in the com- Viennese songs and dances. have a beer in Europe. What amazed fortable duvet-covered bed with lots me was that your first and third Grinzinger Strasse 55, tel. 320 42 57 of fluffy pillows and their cozy terry choices are also my favorite places. robe. The mini-bar provided reason- One was on a mountain top near ably-priced soft drinks and down- Garmisch that we had to take a tram READERS’ right cheap beer and wine. Addition- to get to and the other was my very ally, Martina and Roberta, the host- favorite in Partenkirchen, the esses, were very helpful and kind FORUM Gasthof Fraundorfer (Ludwigstr. 24, (especially while I didn’t feel well). tel. +49/08821/9279, fax 92799). I Vienna, Prague Comments Martina’s husband, Milan, owns wanted to take the couple with us to When we got back from Austria, I his own air-conditioned taxi, and we a real German Gasthaus and just found your May issue in the stack of hired him for two days to be our happened on that one. Our wives mail. We did indeed visit Restaurant driver and guide. As a native of wouldn’t let us return a second time Beograd on May 30, when the NATO Prague, he was full of information because of our condition from the bombing was going on. I had read and very kind and patient in getting night before. Oh, but what a won- about the restaurant in Gemütlichkeit, us around (mainly outside of Prague derful experience. plus the Hotel Carlton Opera recom- proper). His English is excellent. We I returned to Garmisch last year mended it. The night we went was paid him about $20 per hour , plus a and was in the center of the shop- our first night there, so we ate earlier very generous tip (which he de- ping district just off the main street than normal. The garden was very served). pleasant and, even in our jet-lagged facing a barn on a Friday night. Of all state, enjoyed a nice dinner — huge We have nothing but the highest the times not to have my camera, portions, delicious food. The service praise for this wonderful small hotel. that was the worst. It was a scene of was neither overly solicitous nor I recommend it to anyone going to Germany of the past. In front of the indifferent or rude. The waiter obvi- Prague. barn was a long table with farmers ously knew we were American LISBETH ASH getting together for some beers. The (mom, dad and kid), and I felt we DOTHAN, AL area was mud-laden, cows wandered received no different service than the about and the men wore various Vienna Hotel German speakers near us. I would work clothes as they brought the recommend this restaurant to any- Recently returned from two week to an end with many prosits. It one, and it’s especially handy to the weeks in Vienna and a short train was Germany in a nutshell. excursion to Ljubljana and a day-trip very pleasant Hotel Carlton Opera I was stationed in Idar-Oberstein to the very southern tip of Slovenia. (Georg was particularly nice to us at from l960 to l963 and returned for the the hotel). In Vienna we stayed at Hotel am first time about five years ago. I On this trip we visited Prague, Schottenpoint (Währinger Str. 22 , drove through the old Kaserne where which I know you report on from tel. +43/01/310/8787, fax 8787-4) I was stationed as an MP and felt like time to time. We stayed at the very and we were treated royally — we 18 years-old again. Not a brick or wonderful Domus Henrici (Loretan- will stay there again. In Ljubljana, we stone had changed. It was as though Continued on page 8… Gemütlichkeit 7 July, 1999 can only hope was a near fatal case FACTORY DELIVERY READERS’ FORUM of jet lag: an American man cashed Continued from page 5 Continued from page 7 traveler’s checks at the hotel desk, while explaining to his wife that the the world is presented from sundials, I’d left the day before. Anyway, just banks won’t be open Monday be- hourglasses, and candle clocks as letting you know how I’m enjoying cause it’s Memorial Day. Memorial well as complicated astronomical your articles. Thanks and keep it up, Day? Let’s just hope a very long clocks and high-precision marine wish I were there with you on your flight had him a bit befuddled. chronometers. A well-known watch- journeys. Otherwise we must assume the making school is housed nearby. BOB LONG gentlemen thinks the U.S. sets the SATELLITE BEACH FL Roads in the Black Forest curve holiday calendar for the world. and meander, exposing glorious Can’t Find Maxi-Atlas As to the money exchange, if he scenery at nearly every turn. Every I tried to find the ADAC Maxi- needed cash he could have walked village has a shop or two with the Atlas for Germany at Amazon.com half a block to the ATM at the Post ubiquitous cuckoo clocks but many in vain. Where did you buy yours? I Office. There he could have used his styles of carving are available. Mer- haven’t checked at a regular book- credit card or ATM card to obtain chants generally take credit cards store yet, but if Amazon could not deutschemarks at a better exchange and ship back to the states. Shipping even come up with the title for rate than at any bank, and a substan- costs can be high so check the price Germany, the book might be difficult tially better rate than at a hotel. before deciding. We found we could to find anywhere. manage our small wall clock in our MAURICE VEENSTRA luggage and brought it home safely. WILLIAMSTON MI Europe Leaving the Black Forest behind, (Ed. Note: To the best of our knowl- we drove in sunshine on the Auto- edge, the only importer of the ADAC Travel Briefs bahn to Stuttgart and then Zuffen- Maxi-Atlas for Germany is Travel hausen where we left our yellow Essentials, 264 East Main Street, Ash- ■ Swissotel offers summer dis- Boxster. We’d miss Tweety (of course land OR 97520, tel. 541-482-7383, fax counts at 19 locations. For example, we had to name her) but we’d see 541-482-7472. You can also order the the Swissotel Düsseldorf/Neuss has her again in four or five weeks. atlas through Gemütlichkeit at 800-521- a package available through August 6722. Subscribers get a 10% discount.) 29 priced at $111 per night/per (Vickie Ferguson is a free-lance travel couple that includes room and break- writer living in Highland Ranch, Colo- fast. Contact: 800-63-SWISS. rado.) DEAR SUBSCRIBER Continued from page 2 Tour Hotels ■ The German Wine Information shopping. The most interesting shops Bureau has a new Web site: • Sport-und Kurhotel Zur Post, — and one of town’s best Italian www.germanwineusa.org. It offers Reichenhaller Str. 2, Inzell D-83334, tel. restaurants, Wolfshöhle — are on reviews of German wines, advice on +49/08865/9850, fax 985100, rooms 90 Konviktstrasse. food and wine parings, and info on to 190 DM ($47-$100), touring the country’s wine regions. • Zur Post, Kaiser-Ludwig Platz • The weather in Freiburg was ■ Elaine Ridge, a Gemütlichkeit 10, Ettal D-82488, tel. +49/08822/9150, very warm and we dined outdoors subscriber and owner of European fax 6971, rooms 90-150 DM ($47-$79) (the elaborate wood-carved interior will be cozy on cooler evenings) at Journeys, a tour company, offers a • Weinstube Löwen, Marktplatz 2, Karchers Weinstube, half a block Christmas Shopping & Spa Tour to Meersberg D-88709, tel. +49/07532/ from the Park Hotel Post. Main Germany. 43040, fax 430410, rooms 85 to 220 DM dishes range from about 11 to 28 DM The first, November 27-December ($45-$116) ($6-$15) and the plain food is typical 5, is for ladies only and the second, • Sassenhof (garni), Alderweg 17, of the region. Spargel (half a dozen December 4-12, is for couples. Cost is Hinterzarten D-79856, tel. +49/07652/ thick, white asparagus spears at 25 $2,500 per person and includes 1515, fax 484, rooms 98 to 208 DM DM/$13) with new potatoes and a airfare, hotels, transportation, break- ($52-$109), no credit cards buttery hollandaise sauce, more than fasts and dinners, three entrance fees, • Dorer, Franz-Schubert-Str. 20, fulfilled expectations but Kalbsschnit- a two-hour spa package, a concert Schönwald D-78141, tel. +49/07722/ zel “Wiener Art” (24.5 DM/$13) and guide services. 95050, fax 9505530, rooms 85 to 220 would never be confused with the The basic itinerary is Heidelberg, DM ($45-$116) stuff served at Figlmüller in Vienna. Rothenburg ob der Tauber for three • Steigenberger Graf Zeppelin, A quarter-liter of Gewürtztraminer nights, Nürnberg, and winding up Arnulf-Klett-Platz 7, Stuttgart D-70173, cost 6.8 DM ($3.60) and small Pilsner for three days in Baden-Baden, tel. +49/0711/20480, fax 2048542, was 4.2 DM ($2.20). Switzerland. Tours are designed for rooms 375-505 DM ($197-$266), U.S. • On a hot Sunday night at the six to 10 persons. Contact: Elaine dollar discount price for Porsche Hotel Post, we witnessed what one Ridge, 4356 Moore Street, Wheat buyers: single $139, double $179. Ridge CO 80033, tel. 800-337-3057 Gemütlichkeit 8 July, 1999