Climbing in the Ecrins
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Evolution Géomorphologique Du Massif Des Ecrins-Pelvoux Depuis Le Dernier Maximum Glaciaire – Apports Des Nucléides Cosmogéniques Produits In-Situ Romain Delunel
Evolution géomorphologique du massif des Ecrins-Pelvoux depuis le Dernier Maximum Glaciaire – Apports des nucléides cosmogéniques produits in-situ Romain Delunel To cite this version: Romain Delunel. Evolution géomorphologique du massif des Ecrins-Pelvoux depuis le Dernier Maxi- mum Glaciaire – Apports des nucléides cosmogéniques produits in-situ. Géomorphologie. Université Joseph-Fourier - Grenoble I, 2010. Français. tel-00511048 HAL Id: tel-00511048 https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00511048 Submitted on 23 Aug 2010 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. Ecole doctorale Terre Univers Environnement Laboratoire de Géodynamique des Chaînes Alpines THESE DE DOCTORAT DE L’UNIVERSITE DE GRENOBLE Evolution géomorphologique du massif des Ecrins- Pelvoux depuis le Dernier Maximum Glaciaire – Apports des nucléides cosmogéniques produits in-situ ROMAIN DELUNEL Soutenue publiquement le 24 juin 2010 devant le jury composé de : Friedhelm von Blanckenburg Rapporteur Yanni Gunnell Rapporteur Fritz Schlunegger Examinateur Philippe Schoeneich Examinateur -
Preview Editions Seb Constant Classic Routes in the Ecrins
4 - INTRODUCTION - This guidebook cannot be considered a substitute for practical training. INTRODUCTION p. 2 II - DESCRIPTIONS TABLE OF CONTENTS p. 4 2-1 VALLOUISE p. 32 MAP OF THE SECTORS p. 5 - Access map p. 32 - Bans Valley p. 33 I - PRACTICAL INFORMATION - Sélé Valley p. 36 1-1 THE ÉCRINS MASSIF p. 6 - Glacier Noir Basin p. 48 - Access p. 6 - Glacier Blanc Basin p. 52 - Geography p. 7 2-2 HAUTE-ROMANCHE p. 76 1-2 A LONG HISTORY p. 8 - Access map p. 77 - Early exploration/In Coolidge’s footsteps p. 8 - Goléon Basin p. 78 - Recent changes and future trends p. 10 - Source of the Romanche p. 82 - Tabuchet Basin p. 90 1-3 MOUNTAIN HAZARDS p. 11 - Girose Basin p. 96 - Risk and the modern approach to safety p. 11 2-3 VÉNÉON p. 106 - A modern approach to safety p. 13 - Access map p. 107 - Selle Valley p. 108 1-4 DIFFICULTY RATINGS p. 14 - Soreiller Basin p. 114 - A complete reassessment p. 14 - Étançons Valley p. 122 - Technical difficulty p. 15 - Temple Écrins Basin p. 130 - Overall difficulty p. 15 - Pilatte Basin p. 134 - Lavey Valley p. 146 1-5 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE p. 18 - Muzelle Valley p. 152 - Summit/altitude of the top of the route p. 18 - Route name / Route characteristics p. 18 2-4 VALJOUFFREY p. 154 - First ascent: climbers and date p. 19 - Access map p. 154 - Photos and page numbers p. 20 - Font Turbat Valley p. 156 - Approach / Route / Descent p. 20 2-5 VALGAUDEMAR p. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
From Pelvoux Hut)
PELVOUX SOUTH FACE 3946m. (FROM PELVOUX HUT) Zing! A ringing in my head sang out that a hefty stone had selected me from the motley and that I was still alive to hear it. We were about halfway up the first ascent of the meet, Pelvoux via the Couloir Coolidge, and already several had had to drop out John O'Keefe to escort his daughter down, John Richardson with a bad stomach and Andrew Llewellyn with faulty crampons. This left Bill and Gordon Russell, John Llewellyn, lan O'Keefe and me. After a few thoughts about my helmet left at the campsite, I did not feel any worse for the incident and decided to carry on cautiously. Shortly after this decision, whiffs of three inch grapeshot hurtled onto us, but at least we were now all alerted to dodge a bit. However, lan collected a cut on the hand and Gordon one on the shin. Bill decided to go for some broken ground to the left of the upper part of the couloir. We soon realised that his was the main stonefall arsenal, as the slightest misplacement of a foot sent a chunk hurtling down. The last few hundred yards seemed endless, as unfitness exacted its toll and I slumped exhausted on the snow summit. We arrived at 10.15 a.m., having left the hut at 4.27 a.m. On the way down John and lan elected to go down the upper part of the couloir, the former thus collecting a thump on the spare helmet I had lent him. -
Étude Sur Le Glacier Noir Et Le Glacier Blanc Dans Le Massif Du
Étude sur le glacier Noir et le glacier Blanc dans le massif du Pelvoux : [rapport sur les observations rassemblées en août 1904 dans les Alpes du Dauphiné] Charles Jacob, G. Flusin To cite this version: Charles Jacob, G. Flusin. Étude sur le glacier Noir et le glacier Blanc dans le massif du Pelvoux : [rapport sur les observations rassemblées en août 1904 dans les Alpes du Dauphiné]. 1905. insu- 01068516 HAL Id: insu-01068516 https://hal-insu.archives-ouvertes.fr/insu-01068516 Submitted on 25 Sep 2014 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. ' ÉTUDE SUR LK GLACIER NOIR ET LE GLACIER BLANC DANS LE MASSIF DU PELVOUX HOMMAGE DE lA COMMISSION COMMISSION FRANÇAISE DES GLACIERS ÉTUDE sun LE GL�CIER NOIR ET LE GLACIER BLANC DANS LE MASSIF DU PELVOUX PAR MM. CHARLES JACOB ET GEORGES FLUSIN Avec 2 planches phototypiques Et :! cartes topographiques au 1/10.000• DIIESSÉES PAH i\Œ. LAFA Y, FLUSIN et JACOB RAPPORT SUR LES OBSERVA'I'IONS RASSEMBLÉES EN AOÛT 1004 DANS LES ALPES DU DAUPHINÉ Avec te concours de la Société des Touristes du Dauphiné lh� Ministère de l'Agriculture Et du llfinistère de t'In.çtruction publique Extrait de l'Annuaire de la Société des Touristes du Dauphiné Numéro 30, 190� ----- �----- GRENOBLE TTJ>OGHAPHIE ET I.ITHOGHAI'HIE AI.Lllo:H FRÈRES 26, Cours de Saint-André, 26 1905 ÉTUDE SUR LE GLACIER NOIR ET LE GLACIER BLi\NC DANS LE MASSIF DU PELVOUX INTRODUCTION Le soin de poursuivre, pour· le compte de la Commis sion française, l'étude des glaciers du Dauphiné a été laissé cette armée à MM. -
One Hundred Years Ago C. A. Russell
88 Piz Bernilla, Ph Scerscell and Piz Roseg (Photo: Swiss atiollal TOl/rist Office) One hundred years ago (with extracts from the 'Alpine Journal') c. A. Russell The weather experienced in many parts of rhe Alps during rhe early months of 1877 was, to say the least, inhospitable. Long unsettled periods alternated with spells of extreme cold and biting winds; in the vicinity of St Morirz very low temperatures were recorded during January. One member of the Alpine Club able to make numerous high-level excur sions during the winter months in more agreeable conditions was D. W. Freshfield, who explored the Maritime Alps and foothills while staying at Cannes. Writing later in the AlpilJe Journal Freshfield recalled his _experiences in the coastal mountains, including an ascent above Grasse. 'A few steps to rhe right and I was on top of the Cheiron, under the lee of a big ruined signal, erected, no doubt, for trigonometrical purposes. It was late in the afternoon, and the sun was low in the western heavens. A wilder view I had never seen even from the greatest heights. The sky was already deepening to a red winter sunset. Clouds or mountains threw here and there dark shadows across earth and sea. "Far our at ea Corsica burst out of the black waves like an island in flames, reflecting the sunset from all its snows. From the sea-level only its mountain- 213 89 AiguiJle oire de Pelllerey (P!JOIO: C. Douglas Mill/er) 214 ONE HU DRED YEARS AGO topS, and these by aid of refraction, overcome the curvature of the globe. -
De La Meije Traversée
Sommets de légende TEXTE I CHRISTOPHE DUMAREST _ PHOTOS I MARC DAVIET POUR ALPES MAGAZINE TRAVERSÉE DELA CHEVAU LACHÉE FANTASTIQUE MEIJE Après le Cervin et la Dent du Géant*, le guide Christophe Dumarest nous convie à le suivre sur l’une des plus prestigieuses courses des Alpes, si ce n’est la plus belle. Longue et engagée, la traversée de la Meije hante les nuits de générations d’alpinistes. 60 * voir nos 146 et 147 d’Alpes magazine. Sommets de légende LA TRAVERSÉE DE LA MEIJE _ Les alpages qui s’étendent du plateau Instants de plénitude au sommet d’Emparis jusqu’aux aiguilles d’Arves du Doigt de Dieu (3 973 m), qui marque tranchent avec l’ambiance minérale plus véritablement la fin de notre traversée. Le Je reste bluffé par la qualité du rocher, au sud, dont la Meije est la porte d’entrée refuge de l’Aigle et le glacier du Tabuchet (ci-dessous). sont juste en dessous (page précédente). la diversité et l’ingéniosité du tracé. 63 Sommets de légende LA TRAVERSÉE DE LA MEIJE _ approche en direction de la Meije est progressive, la météo, semble contrarié par l’annonce qu’il va elle commence peu avant Vizille, là où la Romanche, nous faire. Ses grimaces ne présagent rien de bon. Il venue du glacier de la Plate des Agneaux, dans le sait, en tant que gardien, mais aussi comme guide nord du massif des Écrins, retrouve son confluent de haute montagne, ce que peut signifier le rêve le Drac. La route suit à contre-courant le torrent sur de la traversée de la Meije, toujours considérée près de 80 km à travers les vallées très encaissées comme l’une des, si ce n’est LA plus belle course L’que le cours d’eau a profondément creusées au des Alpes. -
Inalto-2020.Pdf
In Alto Direttore responsabile Registrazione Tribunale di Udine serie V, Volume C, Alessandra Beltrame n. 266 del 3.12.1970 anno CXL – 2020 ISSN 1827-353X Redazione Società Alpina Friulana Claudio Mitri Distribuito gratuitamente Sezione di Udine ai soci della SAF del Club Alpino Italiano Progetto grafico ODV Raffaella De Reggi Copie e arretrati Via Brigata Re, 29 Società Alpina Friulana 33100 Udine [email protected] www.alpinafriulana.it Con il sostegno della Pagina 4: stemma allegorico della Società Alpina Friulana stampato sul fascicolo delle nozze d’argento di Giovanni Marinelli con Carolina Orlandi, febbraio 1895. Litografia Passero (archivio Umberto Sello) IN ALTO 100 IN ALTO Cronaca della Società Alpina Friulana SERIE V - VOLUME C ANNO CXL - 2020 SOMMARIO Editoriali Volgere lo sguardo alla bellezza Vincenzo Torti ........................................ 8 Cento volte Saf Enrico Brisighelli ............................................................. 10 Cultura alpina Alessandra Beltrame.......................................................... 13 Pensieri e studi Emersioni di lettura Silvia Metzeltin ........................................................ 16 La montagna come antidoto al virus Augusto Cosulich ........................... 21 Il mistero della pergamena Paolo Cavallanti ............................................ 37 Prime salite femminili al Montasio Daniela Durissini .............................. 45 Una misconosciuta ricchezza Sebastiano Parmegiani ............................... 55 L’Alta Via delle Alpi Giulie -
Berg – Erfahrungen
1 BERG – ERFAHRUNGEN Bergsport, ein kulturdynamisches Phänomen Diplomarbeit zur Erlangung des akademischen Grades einer Magistra der Philosophie/ an der Karl-Franzens-Universität Graz vorgelegt von Elfriede Maria Lackner am Institut für *..Volkskunde und Kulturanthropologie Begutachter(in)**Univ.Prof. Dr._in Johanna Rolshoven Graz, 2011 2 INHALTSVERZEICHNIS Seite 1. Vorbemerkungen 1.1. Berg - Erfahrungen 2010 1 1.2. Einleitung - Ausgangfragen – Theorien – Hypothesen 3 2. Raume - Orte – Strukturen 2.1. Begriffe und Verortungen 8 2.2. Die Darstellung des Phänomens in Zahlen 11 2.2.1. Die historische Gleichzeitigkeit 13 2.2.2. Entstehung und Transformation des Bildes Bergsport 15 2.3. Bergsport und Kulturtheorien 17 2.4. Exemplarische Darstellung der Feldforschung 20 2.5. Methodische Ansätze oder eine an das Feld angepasste Methode 21 2.5.1. Feldforschungsinhalte und Erkenntnisinteressen 23 2.5.2. Darstellung und Begründung des Forschungsdesigns 27 3. Wahrnehmung und Interpretation bergsportlichen Tuns 29 3.1. Forschungsregionen und Forschungsinhalte im Kontext 30 3.1.1. Bergwelten in Tirol : Der Wilde und der Zahme Kaiser 30 3.1.2. Bergwelt Nationalpark Gesäuse in der Steiermark - Die Hesshütte ………………..34 3.2. Exemplarische Darstellung und Analyse der Forschungsdaten Fallbeispiel 1: Tirol – Wilder und Zahmer Kaiser 38 3.2.1. Von den Quellen zur Analyse 40 3.2.2. Expertengespräche / Ergänzungen 53 3.3. Exemplarische Darstellung und Analyse der Forschungsdaten Fallbeispiel 2: Nationalpark Gesäuse – Die Hesshütte 57 3.3.1. Altersspezifische Sichtweisen des Bergsportes in der Postmoderne 76 3 4 Markierte und unmarkierte Wege 80 4.1.Forschungsfelder im historischen Kontext 81 4.2. Gipfelerlebnisse und Rituale 84 4.3. Ganzheitlichkeit – Genuss – Ruhe –Muße 86 5. -
Mountaineering Ventures
70fcvSs )UNTAINEERING Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY by the ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY 1980 v Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from University of Toronto http://www.archive.org/details/mountaineeringveOObens 1 £1. =3 ^ '3 Kg V- * g-a 1 O o « IV* ^ MOUNTAINEERING VENTURES BY CLAUDE E. BENSON Ltd. LONDON : T. C. & E. C. JACK, 35 & 36 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. AND EDINBURGH PREFATORY NOTE This book of Mountaineering Ventures is written primarily not for the man of the peaks, but for the man of the level pavement. Certain technicalities and commonplaces of the sport have therefore been explained not once, but once and again as they occur in the various chapters. The intent is that any reader who may elect to cull the chapters as he lists may not find himself unpleasantly confronted with unfamiliar phraseology whereof there is no elucidation save through the exasperating medium of a glossary or a cross-reference. It must be noted that the percentage of fatal accidents recorded in the following pages far exceeds the actual average in proportion to ascents made, which indeed can only be reckoned in many places of decimals. The explanation is that this volume treats not of regular routes, tariffed and catalogued, but of Ventures—an entirely different matter. Were it within his powers, the compiler would wish ade- quately to express his thanks to the many kind friends who have assisted him with loans of books, photographs, good advice, and, more than all, by encouraging countenance. Failing this, he must resort to the miserably insufficient re- source of cataloguing their names alphabetically. -
The Alps 2008
Area Notes 181. Simon Pierse, Ciarforon from Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II, 2006, watercolour, 42 x 59cm 245 Area Notes COMPILED AND EDITED BY PAUL KNOTT Alps 2008 Lindsay Griffin Greenland 2008 Derek Fordham Scottish Winter 2008-2009 Simon Richardson Morocco 2005-9 Mike Mortimer India 2008 Harish Kapadia Nepal 2008 Dick Isherwood Pakistan 2007 Lindsay Griffin and Dick Isherwood China and Tibet John Town New Zealand 2008-9 Kester Brown Cordillera Blanca Antonio Gómez Bohórquez Argentine Andes 2008 Marcelo Scanu 246 LINDSAY GRIFFIN The Alps 2008 This selection of ascents in 2008 could not have been written without the help of Jonathan Griffith, Andrej Grmovsek, Tomaz Jakofcic, Rolando Larcher, Tony Penning, Claude Rémy, Hilary Sharp, Luca Signorelli and Ueli Steck. tarting in late June, Diego Giovannini and Franco ‘Franz’ Nicolini took S60 days to complete the first non-mechanised link-up of all 82 Alpine 4000m summits that appear on the UIAA’s official list. The pair opted to track from west to east, ending with Piz Bernina. Until the early 1990s there was no definitive list; some opting for as low as 52 (the number of completely separate mountains), others adding more, with alpine specialist Richard Goedecke listing a staggering 150 individual tops and bumps. At the end of 1993, in an attempt to put an end to the debate, a joint UIAA and Italian Alpine Club committee came up with an ‘official’ list of 82, which they hoped would be used as the benchmark for future attempts. This list came too late for Simon Jenkins and Martin Moran, who in the same year made the first non-mechanised traverse of 74 summits from the Piz Bernina to the Barre des Ecrins.