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Chamonix Expedition Course
CHAMONIX EXPEDITION COURSE 2022 COURSE NOTES CHAMONIX EXPEDITION COURSE NOTES 2022 COURSE DETAILS Dates: Private course, available on demand Duration: 6 days Departure: ex Chamonix, France Price: €4,200 for 1:1 guide to climber ratio €2,600 for 1:2 guide to climber ratio Work your way up to bigger goals. Photo: Olivier Baron Welcome to Adventure Consultants’ Chamonix Expedition Course. This high-quality course is the perfect stepping stone to high expedition peaks and ideal for climbers looking to start tackling the Seven Summits. Introducing you to a wide array of techniques and fine-tuning existing skills, you’ll develop the pre-requisites for going higher than you ever have before. Based out of the climber’s paradise of Chamonix At the end of the course, participants will have in the French Alps, our 6-day Chamonix Expedition gained the skills to tackle more committing multi- Course has been designed by Adventure day ascents, either guided or on their own. Consultants to equip you with the essential skills and techniques to take your climbing to the next level and begin tackling major ascents. SKILLS COVERED Let our experienced guides help you navigate your way towards safe and successful climbing practices, • Snow-craft and ice-craft with a special focus on expedition climbing to set • Rope skills applicable to alpine and expedition you on your way towards your mountain objectives. climbing • Rescue techniques and emergency shelters With a strong focus on practical experience, the • Glacier travel and self-rescue skills course is directed toward fit and motivated people • Route finding and navigation who have some background in the outdoors. -
Sir John Herschel and the Breithorn
298 SIR JOHN HERSCHEL AND THE BREITHORN • SIR JOHN HERSCHEL AND THE BREITHORN BY CLAIRE ELIANE ENGEL HERE is a tradition according to which the Breithorn was first climbed in 1813 by a completely unknown Frenchman, Henri 1 • • Maynard and later by Sir John Herschel. F. F. Tuckett inci- dentally mentioned the fact that Sir John Herschel had told him he had ascended the Breithorn from the Theodul in 1821 ; Tuckett had never heard of Maynard.2 Lord Minto, who went up the mountain in 1830, called it Monte Rosa and said, it was the summit ascended in I822 by Sir' John Herschel. 3 His authority vvas either Sir John himself, or J oseph-Marie Couttet who had been the first guide of both parties. Coolidge accepted 1822 as the date of Herschel's climb.4 According to Tuckett, no Zermatt guide had ever reached the summit before him, in June 1859. · Now it is obvious that there is some missing link in this story, and I • • endeavoured to find it. Thanks to the great .kindness of the Rev. Sir John Herschel, the astronomer's grandson, I am able to give the com plete story of the second ascent of the Breithorn by Sir John Herschel in 1821. His travel-diaries are kept in Slough Observatory House, the family seat, and his grandson allowed me to read them and to have his drawings photographed. I found a few more details in Sir John's letters to the Genevese astronomer Alfred Gautier vvhich are kept in the Bibliotheque Publique et U niversitaire in Geneva. -
Note on the History of the Innominata Face of Mont Blanc De Courmayeur
1 34 HISTORY OF THE INNOMINATA FACE them difficult but solved the problem by the most exposed, airy and exhilarating ice-climb I ever did. I reckon sixteen essentially different ways to Mont Blanc. I wish I had done them all ! NOTE ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. 1. This was taken from the inner end of Col Eccles in 1921 during the ascent of Mont Blanc by Eccles' route. Pie Eccles is seen high on the right, and the top of the Aiguille Noite de Peteret just shows over the left flank of the Pie. FIG. 2. This was taken from the lnnominata face in 1919 during a halt at 13.30 on the crest of the branch rib. The skyline shows the Aiguille Blanche de Peteret on the extreme left (a snow cap), with Punta Gugliermina at the right end of what appears to be a level summit ridge but really descends steeply. On the right of the deep gap is the Aiguille Noire de Peteret with the middle section of the Fresney glacier below it. The snow-sprinkled rock mass in the right lower corner is Pie Eccles a bird's eye view. FIG. 3. This was taken at the same time as Fig. 2, with which it joins. Pie Eccles is again seen, in the left lower corner. To the right of it, in the middle of the view, is a n ear part of the branch rib, and above that is seen a bird's view of the Punta lnnominata with the Aiguille Joseph Croux further off to the left. -
Moüjmtaiim Operations
L f\f¿ áfó b^i,. ‘<& t¿ ytn) ¿L0d àw 1 /1 ^ / / /This publication contains copyright material. *FM 90-6 FieW Manual HEADQUARTERS No We DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY Washington, DC, 30 June 1980 MOÜJMTAIIM OPERATIONS PREFACE he purpose of this rUanual is to describe how US Army forces fight in mountain regions. Conditions will be encountered in mountains that have a significant effect on. military operations. Mountain operations require, among other things^ special equipment, special training and acclimatization, and a high decree of self-discipline if operations are to succeed. Mountains of military significance are generally characterized by rugged compartmented terrain witn\steep slopes and few natural or manmade lines of communication. Weather in these mountains is seasonal and reaches across the entireSspectrum from extreme cold, with ice and snow in most regions during me winter, to extreme heat in some regions during the summer. AlthoughNthese extremes of weather are important planning considerations, the variability of weather over a short period of time—and from locality to locahty within the confines of a small area—also significantly influences tactical operations. Historically, the focal point of mountain operations has been the battle to control the heights. Changes in weaponry and equipment have not altered this fact. In all but the most extreme conditions of terrain and weather, infantry, with its light equipment and mobility, remains the basic maneuver force in the mountains. With proper equipment and training, it is ideally suited for fighting the close-in battfe commonly associated with mountain warfare. Mechanized infantry can\also enter the mountain battle, but it must be prepared to dismount and conduct operations on foot. -
Zur Verbreitung Von Permafrost Am Dachstein (Nördliche Kalkalpen, Steiermark)
ZOBODAT - www.zobodat.at Zoologisch-Botanische Datenbank/Zoological-Botanical Database Digitale Literatur/Digital Literature Zeitschrift/Journal: Mitteilungen des naturwissenschaftlichen Vereins für Steiermark Jahr/Year: 1991 Band/Volume: 121 Autor(en)/Author(s): Lieb Gerhard Karl, Schopper Andreas Artikel/Article: Zur Verbreitung von Permafrost am Dachstein (Nördliche Kalkalpen, Steiermark). 149-163 © Naturwissenschaftlicher Verein für Steiermark; download unter www.biologiezentrum.at Mitt, naturwiss. Ver. Steiermark Band 121 S. 149-163 Graz 1991 Zur Verbreitung von Permafrost am Dachstein (Nördliche Kalkalpen, Steiermark) Von Gerhard Karl LlEB und Andreas SCHÖPFER Mit 8 Abbildungen und 3 Tabellen (im Text) Eingelangt am 3. Januar 1991 Angenommen am 10. Januar 1991 Zusammenfassung: Nach einführenden Bemerkungen über den alpinen Permafrost und einer kurzen Präsentation des Untersuchungsgebietes mit seiner Vergletscherung werden Ergebnisse von Grabungen, Quelltemperaturmessungen und Basistemperaturmessungen der winterlichen Schneedecke (BTS) diskutiert. Hiermit wird die Existenz von Permafrost erst- mals für den Dachstein nachgewiesen und, vor allem mit Hilfe der BTS-Meßergebnisse, erst- mals dessen Verbreitung für ein wenn auch kleines Areal der Nordalpen flächenhaft darge- stellt. Die Untergrenze des diskontinuierlichen Permafrosts liegt in N-Exposition bei rund 2300 m und steigt zu den Zentralalpen hin an. Summary: The distribution of permafrost in the Dachstein massive (Northern Lime- stone Alps, Styria, Austria). After some comments on alpine permafrost a short presentation of the investigated area including its glaciation is given. Then results of digging, temperature measuring of springs as well as measurements of the basical temperature of the winter snow cover are discussed. Thus the existence of permafrost in the Dachstein massive is proved for the first time. Also for the first time a map of permafrost distribution for a small area of the Northern Alps can be drawn. -
Guide Hiver 2020-2021
BIENVENUE WELCOME GUIDE VALLÉE HIVER 2020-2021 WINTER VALLEY GUIDE SERVOZ - LES HOUCHES - CHAMONIX-MONT-BLANC - ARGENTIÈRE - VALLORCINE CARE FOR THE INDEX OCEAN* INDEX Infos Covid-19 / Covid information . .6-7 Bonnes pratiques / Good practice . .8-9 SERVOZ . 46-51 Activités plein-air / Open-air activities ����������������� 48-49 FORFAITS DE SKI / SKI PASS . .10-17 Culture & Détente / Culture & Relaxation ����������� 50-51 Chamonix Le Pass ��������������������������������������������������������������������� 10-11 Mont-Blanc Unlimited ������������������������������������������������������������� 12-13 LES HOUCHES . 52-71 ��������������������������������������������� Les Houches ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 14-15 Ski nordique & raquettes 54-55 Nordic skiing & snowshoeing DOMAINES SKIABLES / SKI AREAS �����������������������18-35 Activités plein-air / Open-air activities ����������������� 56-57 Domaine des Houches . 18-19 Activités avec les animaux ����������������������������������������� 58-59 Le Tourchet ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 20-21 Activities with animals Le Brévent - La Flégère . 22-25 Activités intérieures / Indoor activities ����������������� 60-61 Les Planards | Le Savoy ��������������������������������������������������������� 26-27 Guide des Enfants / Children’s Guide . 63-71 Les Grands Montets ����������������������������������������������������������������� 28-29 Famille Plus . 62-63 Les Chosalets | La Vormaine ����������������������������������������������� -
TARIFS PAR COURSE - Été 2021 Cette Liste Donne Un Exemple Des Tarifs À La Course « Classique »
TARIFS PAR COURSE - Été 2021 Cette liste donne un exemple des tarifs à la course « classique ». Mais en fonction des conditions (nuit en refuge, succession de courses) ils peuvent être revus à la hausse ou à la baisse Bassins Argentière-Trient Aiguille d'Argentière Flèche Rousse 780€ Arête du Génépi (avec une autre course depuis le refuge) 380€ Arête du Raboin 380€ Couloir en Y 780€ Plateau inf. / Dièdre central 400€ Voie normale 780€ Aiguille du Chardonnet Arête Forbes 780€ Face Nord 780€ Aiguille Dorées Arête sud 780€ Traversée 960€ Aiguille de la Purtscheller Arête Sud (2 jours engagement) 760€ Aiguille du Tour Arête de la Table (2 jours engagement) 760€ Couloir de la Table(2 jours engagement) 760€ Voie Normale (depuis le refuge) et école de glace 760€ Le Minaret éperon SE 870€ Les Ecandies en traversée 500€ Dolent (Mont) Arête Gallet 810€ Tête Blanche ou Petite Fourche (depuis le refuge) 600€ Traversée refuge Albert 1er- Champex (depuis le refuge) 600€ Chaîne des Drus au Triolet Aiguille de la Nonne, traversée 760€ Aiguille de l'Evèque Traversée Nonne/Evèque 800€ Voie normale 760€ Moine (Aig. du) Arête Sud (1px) 760€ Arête Sud intégrale 820€ Voie normale 760€ Verte (Aig.) Arête du Moine Fourchette 1 Arête des Grands Montets Fourchette 3 Couloir Whymper Fourchette 1 Courtes (Les) Pente NE 860€ En traversée 860€ trav + Ravanel-Mummery 1000€ Droites (Les) Arête Est 1000€ Drus (Aig. des) En traversée Fourchette 1 Voies du pilier Sud Fourchette 3 Bassins Leschaux - Géant Aiguille de Rochefort arête depuis Helbronner A/R 500€ Aiguille de -
THE NORDEND of MONTE ROSA. T. Graham Brown
THE • VOL. LIII NOVEMBER I 942 NO. 265 THE NORDEND OF MONTE ROSA BY T. GRAHAM BROWN Substance of a lecture delivered before the Alpine Club, December g, 1941. T is curious to reflect that the ascent of the N ordend might have been one of the most popular in the Alps had the Dufourspitze been but 83 ft. lower. As things are, the mountain is relatively neglected. The usual route to its graceful summit lies off the beaten track, and more .often than not the N ordend is omitted during traverses of the Monte Rosa peaks ; parties from the Marinelli hut seem almost invariably to take the easier but more dangerous route to the Dufour spitze in preference to the more difficult ascent of the N ordend by its stupendous Macugnaga face ; the sensational Frontier arete, 1 which plunges to the Jagerjoch in vertical steps, has rarely been visited ; and (to the best of my knowledge) the wide and steep Weisstor (or N.E.) face of the N ordend has so far received attention from but a single climbing party. To these striking neglects may be added a fifth: on only one former occasion, and that was nearly thirty years ago, has the Nordend been the subject of a paper read before the Club.2 The event deserves to be recalled, because it was then that E. A. Broome described his expedition of 191 I, when, in the course of the day, he ascended the Macugnaga face from the Marinelli hut and descended by the ordinary route to the Riffelhaus the memorable achievement of a great climber who was in his sixty-seventh year at the time of the ascent. -
“Darkening Swiss Glacier Ice?” by Kathrin Naegeli Et Al
The Cryosphere Discuss., https://doi.org/10.5194/tc-2018-18-AC2, 2018 TCD © Author(s) 2018. This work is distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License. Interactive comment Interactive comment on “Darkening Swiss glacier ice?” by Kathrin Naegeli et al. Kathrin Naegeli et al. [email protected] Received and published: 17 April 2018 ——————————————————————————— We would like to thank the referee 2 for this careful and detailed review. We appreciate the in-depth comments and are convinced that thanks to the respective changes, the manuscript will improve substantially. In response to this review, we elaborated the role of supraglacial debris in more detail by: (1) manually delineating medial moraines and areas where tributaries separated from the main glacier trunk and debris has become exposed to obtain a complete Printer-friendly version supraglacial debris mask based on the Sentinel-2 image acquired in August 2016, and (2) applying this debris mask to all data and, thus, to exclude areas with debris cover- Discussion paper age from all consecutive analyses. Additionally, we further developed the uncertainty assessment of the retrieved albedo values by providing more information about the C1 datasets used as well as their specific constraints and uncertainties that may result thereof in a separate sub-section in the methods section. Based on these revisions, TCD the conclusions will most likely be slightly adjusted, however, stay in line with the orig- inal aim of our study to investigate possible changes in bare-ice albedo in the Swiss Alps based on readily available Landsat surface reflectance data. Interactive comment Below we respond to all comments by anonymous referee 2. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
View from the Summit Over the Italian Side of Mont Blanc Is Breathtaking! Descent Via Normal Route
Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix 190 place de l’église - 74400 Chamonix – France - Tél : + 33 (0)4 50 53 00 88 www.chamonix-guides.com - e-mail : [email protected] AIGUILLE VERTE - PRIVE - TISON Duration: 5 days Level: Price from: 2 485 € The Chamonix Compagnie des Guides offers you a collection of programmes to climb the legendary peaks of the Alps. We have selected a route together with a specific preparatory package for each peak. Each route chosen is universally recognised as unmissable. Thanks to our unique centre of expertise, we can also guide you on other routes. So don’t hesitate to dream big, as our expertise is at your service to help you make your dreams come true. The Aiguille Verte is THE legendary peak in the Mont Blanc Massif. The celebrated mountaineer and writer Gaston Rébuffat contributed significantly to this reputation when he said of it: “Before the Verte one is a mountaineer, on the Verte one becomes a ‘Montagnard’ (mountain dweller)”. It is certainly true that there are no easy routes on this peak and each face is a significant challenge. The south side of the Aiguille Verte is an outstanding snow route that follows the Whymper Couloir for over 700 metres. This is unquestionably one of the most beautiful routes in the massif, and we offer a four-day programme for its ascent. ITINERARY Day 1 and Day 2 : Acclimatisation routes with a night in the Torino Hut (3370m) These first two days give your body the essential time it requires to adapt to altitude.