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Index 2019 A Alouette II 221 Aari Dont col 268 Alpi Biellesi 167 Abram 28 Alpine Journal 199, 201, 202, 205, 235, 332, 333 Absi 61 Alps 138, 139, 141, 150, 154, 156, 163, 165, 179 Aconcagua 304, 307 Altamirano, Martín 305 Adams, Ansel 178 Ama Dablam 280, 282 Adam Smith, Janet 348 American Alpine Journal 298 Adda valley 170 American Civil War 173 Adhikari, Rabindra 286 Amery, Leo 192 Aemmer, Rudolph 242 Amin, Idi 371 Ahlqvist, Carina 279 Amirov, Rustem 278 Aichyn 65 Ancohuma 242 Aichyn North 65, 66 Anderson, Rab 257 Aiguille Croux 248 Andes 172 Aiguille d’Argentière 101 Androsace 222 Aiguille de Bionnassay 88, 96, 99, 102, 104, 106, Angeles, Eugenio 310 109, 150, 248 Angeles, Macario 310 Aiguille de l’M 148 Angel in the Stone (The) Aiguille des Ciseaux 183 review 350 Aiguille des Glaciers 224 Angsi glacier 60 Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 242 Anker, Conrad 280, 329 Aiguille du Blaitière 183 Annapurna 82, 279, 282, 284 Aiguille du Goûter 213 An Teallach 255 Aiguille du Midi 142, 146, 211, 242 Antoinette, Marie 197 Aiguille du Moine 146, 147 Anzasca valley 167 Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 211 Api 45 Aiguilles Blaitière-Fou 183 Ardang 62, 65 Aiguilles de la Tré la Tête 88 Argentère 104 Aiguilles de l’M 183 Argentière glacier 101, 141, 220 Aiguilles Grands Charmoz-Grépon 183 Argentière hut 104 Aiguilles Grises 242 Arjuna 272 Aiguille Verte 104 Arnold, Dani 250 Ailfroide 334 Arpette valley 104 Albenza 168 Arunachal Pradesh 45 Albert, Kurt 294 Ashcroft, Robin 410 Alborz 119 Askari Aviation 290 Alexander, Hugh 394 Asper, Claudi 222 Allan, Sandy 260, 315 Assajya Tuppa 57 Allen, Iain 370 At Bashi range 319 Allen, Rick 291, 293, 315 Atholi 25, 26 Allen, Robert Fenwick Atsushi Senda 60 obituary 357 Attwood-Freeman, Julian 69 Allfrey, David 294 Aubert, François 220, 222, 224 All Izz Well 265 Auer, Hansjörg 273, 287, 291, 293 Almer, Christian 201 Aufdenblatten, Adolf 242 Alouette 230 Aufdenblatten, Alfred 333 512j The Alpine Journal 2019_Inside.indd 422 27/09/2019 10:58 I NDEX 2 0 1 9 423 Austin, Allan 369 Beber, Alexander 252 Autissier, Isabelle 300 Beckey, Fred 256 Avellano Valley 314 Beinn a’Bhuird 254 Avenali Tower 314 Beinn Eighe 255 Belloc, Hilaire 237 B Bell, Steve 397 Baber, Ingrid 312 Belotserkovskiy, Kirill 295 Baintha Brakk West I 294 Benegas, Willie 276 Baintha Brakk West II 295 Benuzzi, Felice 407, 408 Baker, Mike 396 No Picnic on Mount Kenya, book 404 Baku 240 Berg, Alik 296 Baldock, David 360 Berger, Max 273 Baldock, Susan Berg, Felix 282, 287, 293 obituary 359 Berry, Nick 274 Ballard, Tom 291, 294 Beste, Nils 54 Ballu, Yves 210, 233 Bevan, Ruth 115, 116 Baltbar glacier 291 Bhagarathis 3 Baluchistan 119, 120 Bhandar Lekh 55 Banafsheh Sar 315 Bholbiham Icefall 58 Band, George 388 Bholbihan 54 Band, Nigel 362 Bholbihan glacier 57 Band, Susan Bholbihan Khola 55, 57 obituary 360 Bhutan 45 Bargiel, Andrzej 287, 291, 293 Biblioteca Ambrosiana 169 Bargiel, Bartek 291 Bich, Jean-Baptiste 99 Bargiel, Bartłomiej 293 Bidein Druim nan Ramh 349 Barmasse, Hervé 250, 294 Bielby, Mark 65 Barmasse, Marco 250 Bielecki, Adam 282, 287, 293 Barnaj I 316 Bierstadt, Albert 172, 173, 177 Barnaj II 267, 316 Billon, Léo 261, 265 Belper, Edward, 1st Baron Belper 191 Biner, Bernard 385 Baró, Oriol 266, 267, 294 Biner, Paula 385 Barry, John 24 Bionassay ridge, Mont Blanc 217 article: ‘Hagshu: Unfinished Business’ 24 Bird, David 319 Bartlett, Phil 55, 58 Biven, Pete 370 Bass, Malcolm 261, 262, 263, 316 Bize, Marcel 222 article: ‘Janhukot’ 3 Black Car Burning Bathgate, Davy 372 review 350 Batian 407, 408 Blakeley, Chris 313 Batokshi 315 Blakeney, T S 201 Batoux, Philippe 301 Blake, William 129 Bayo 307 Blanc, André 221, 224, 225, 226, 228, 229, 230 Beard, Eric 378 Blotti, Noel 220, 222 Beare, Marty 5 Blum, Christoph 251 Beatty, John 415 BMC International Winter Meet 16 Beaumont College 191 Boer War 193 512j The Alpine Journal 2019_Inside.indd 423 27/09/2019 10:58 424 T HE A LPINE J OURN A L 2 0 1 9 Bohin, Sébastien 250 Buckle, Derek 268, 274, 318, 374, 393 Boissenot, Yannick 295 Buckley, Nigel 339, 410 Boivin, Jean-Marc 249 Buhl, Fabian 295 Bolton 172 Bührer, Philipp 274 Bonacossa, Aldo 193, 241 Bullingdon Club 192 Bonatti route 145 Bullock, Nick 319, 415 Bonatti, Walter 145, 212, 213, 214, 215, 217, Burdet, Denis 264 218, 221, 228 Burke, Chris 280 Mountains of my Life, book 215 Burnet, Joseph 219, 220, 222 Bondaran 120, 125 Burrell, Arthur 235 Bonnet, Honoré 224, 226, 227, 228, 229 Bynum, Jack 55, 60 Bonniot, Max 249, 250 Bosses ridge, Mont Blanc 94, 216, 217 C Bossi, Giuseppe 163 Caldwell, Tommy 329, 330, 336, 337, 338 Boswell, Greg 255 Campbell-Davis, Trevor 410 Boulet, Jean 221, 230 Campbell, Robin N Bower, G S 243 article: ‘John Ruskin’s Alpine Watercolours’ 179 Boyu, Xia 277 Cannings, Frank 371, 390 Brady icefield 314 Cape Farewell 300, 301 Brammah glacier 269, 271 Cararach, Roger 294 Brèche de Roland 237 Carnell, Simon 335 Bregaglia 194 Carpentier, Georges 232 Brenva glacier 213 Carrara, Gabriele 248 Brenva Spur, Mont Blanc 202, 212, 213, 214 Casas, Ramiro 309 Briggs, Steve 24 Caseneuve, François-Xavier 211, 212, 214, 215, 220 British Expeditionary Force 195 Cassin, Riccardo 169 British Mountaineering Council 158 Castillo, Martín 305 British Museum 235 Castle Rock of Triermain 179 Broad Peak 284, 291, 293, 315 Castor 181 Bron, Marcel 219, 222, 224, 229 Caucasus 240 Brosse, Stéphane 101, 102 Cauterets 238 Brouillard ridge, Mont Blanc 88, 89, 92, 96, Cazaux, Henri 238 242, 248 Cazzanelli, François 250 Brown, Andy 5 Cazzanelli, Walter 250 Brown, Dave 113, 114, 115, 117 Cengalo 155 Brown, Graham 332, 333, 334 Cerro El Escampe 309 Brown, Joe 388 Cerro El Gran Riojano 307 Brown, T Graham 156 Cerro General Belgrano 307 Bruce, Gen Charles 192, 198 Cerro Kishtwar 261, 263, 269 Bruchez, Vivian 101, 105, 106, 107 Cerro La Mejicana 307 Bruhwiler, Mirjam 313 Cerro Negro Overo 307 Brumkhangshe 274 Cerro Nevado de Famatina 307 Brun, André 211 Cerro Overo 307 Buchan, John 198 Cerro ‘Pradbhupada’ 307 Buckingham, Guy 3, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 15, 261, Cerro Square Face 117 262, 316 Cerro Vallecitos 307 512j The Alpine Journal 2019_Inside.indd 424 27/09/2019 10:58 I NDEX 2 0 1 9 425 Cesen, Aleš 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 287, 288 Choktoi Ri 295 Cesen spur, K2 293 Chomochior valley 264 Chambaret, Carole 294 Cho Oyu 279 Chamonix 101, 139, 180, 182 Christ Church 192 Champex 99, 100, 101, 103, 104, 108, 109 Chungsa Khola 70 Chancel, The 255 Churau 51, 82 Chandi 65 Chwa Khola 62, 64 Chandi Himal 58, 65, 83 Chyargo La 46, 47, 83 Changabang 261, 265 Cima Brenta 252 Changdi 47 Cima Grande 191 Changi Tower II 295 Cima Scotoni 252 Changla 62 Cimenti, Cala 294 Chang La 58, 61, 65 Clamp, Julian 4 Changla 61 Clarke, Whitney 272 Changla Himal 58 Clark, Kenneth 165 Changtang 49 Cleare, John 341, 352, 373, 390, 393 Changuch 317 Climbers’ Club 358, 378, 393 Changwatang 66 Clough, Ian 369, 390 Chañi Chico 305 Clyma, Julie-Ann 265 Chañi Massif 304 Codex Atlantic 168 Chappaz, Gilbert 223, 224, 227, 228, 229, 233 Codex Leicester 164, 165, 168 Charles, emperor of Austria 196 Coffey, Maria 344 Charles, Jean-Pierre 237 Cofone, Diego 307 Charlet, Armand 211, 220 Cognetti, Paolo 415 Chartres, Louis 312 Coire an t- Sneachda 255 Chatterjee, Atanu 4 Col de Bionnassay 88, 106, 242 Chau Kang Nilda 273 Col de Chardonnet 109 Chaukhamba 3, 262 Col de Cristaux 104 Chaukhamba I 4 Col de la Bérangère 98 Chaukhamba II 4 Col de Miage 97 Chaukhamba III 4 Col des Cristaux 101, 104, 109 Chaukhamba massif 11 Col des Ecandies 109 Cheesmond, Dave 390 Col des Écandies 104 Chemayungdung Chu 60 Col du Chardonnet 104 Chenab river 25 Col du Dôme 221 Chhamsacka 63 Col du Miage 109 Chhamsacka 62 Col du Midi 105, 109 Chhota Bhai 295 Col du Tour Noir 201 Chiling I 266, 317 Cole, Alice Bourdillon 204 Chiling II 266, 267, 316 Col Emile Rey 89 Chinchay, Antonio 309 Coles, Becky 62 Chinchay, Jorge 309 Col Moore 213, 214 Chin, Jimmy 336 Colorado 172, 174 Chiring 27, 268, 316 Colter, John 174 Chogo Lungma glacier 389 Colton, Nick 49, 51, 55, 58, 69, 70, 318 Choktoi glacier 16 Combe Maudite 218, 227 512j The Alpine Journal 2019_Inside.indd 425 27/09/2019 10:58 426 T HE A LPINE J OURN A L 2 0 1 9 Comici, Emilio 191 D Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix 219, 345 Dachau 211 Compagnie des Guides de Saint-Gervais d’Addario, Lorenzo 252 Mont-Blanc 219 d’Adda, Vaprio 170 Compagnies Républicaines de Sécurité 233 Daidani, Bijan 240 Conscrits hut 98, 150 Danzer, Julian 294 Constable Point 312, 313 Darchula 45 Contamine, André 211 Dartigue, Pierre 219, 220, 221, 222, 223 Conterno, Nehuén 311 Darwin glacier 408 Cook, Drew 268, 318 Daryal gorge 240 Coolidge, W A B 153, 156, 157, 164, 167, 168, Daumal, René 348 201, 202 Dauphiné 242, 334 Cool, Kenton 276 Davies, Frank 378 Copla Blanca 309 da Vinci, Leonardo 163, 164, 165, 168, 170, 171 Coramine 229 Book of Painting, book 171 Cordillera Blanca 310 Treatise on Painting, book 171 Cordillera de la Viuda 309 Davis, Pete 368 Cordillera Vilcanota 311 Dawes, Johnny 351 Cordón del Plata 307 Dawn Wall, film Cornizzolo 166 review 336 Courmayeur 139 Dean, Steve 416 Courtauld, S L 241, 242 Deavoll, Pat 5 Courvercle hut 109 de-Beger, Philip 296 Couvercle hut 150 De-Beger, Philip 315 Couzy, Jean 211, 213 Deck, Claude 211, 233 Cowling, Alfred 242 Dector-Vega, German 319 Cox, Neil 410 Dedeszko, Borys 293 Cozens, John Robert 182 Degagne, Gabrielle 319 Cresta run 194 de la Cuesta, Pepe 305 Crew, Peter 369 Delisi, Cristiano 249 Croft, Peter 338 Delisi, Fabio 249 Crook, John 113, 114, 115, 274, 317 del Salado, Ojos 307 Croydon 156 Delvaux, Marcelo Motta 310 Cuillin & Other Skye Mountains (The), The Cuillin Dempsey,
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    HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING 1931·1932 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASS. ~I I ' HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING 1931-1932 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASS . THE ASCENT OF MOUNT FAIRWEATHER by ALLEN CARPE We were returning from the expedition to Mount Logan in 1925. Homeward bound, our ship throbbed lazily across the Gulf of Alaska toward Cape Spencer. Between reefs of low fog we saw the frozen monolith of St. Elias, rising as it were sheer out of the water, its foothills and the plain of the Malaspina Glacier hidden behind the visible sphere of the sea. Clouds shrouded the heights of the Fairweather Range as we entered Icy Strait and touched at Port Althorp for a cargo of salmon; but I felt then the challenge of this peak which was now perhaps the outstanding un­ climbed mOUlitain in America, lower but steeper than St. Elias, and standing closer to tidewater than any other summit of comparable height in the world. Dr. William Sargent Ladd proved a kindred spirit, and in the early summer of 1926 We two, with Andrew Taylor, made an attempt on the mountain. Favored by exceptional weather, we reached a height of 9,000 feet but turned back Photo by Bradford Washburn when a great cleft intervened between the but­ tresses we had climbed and the northwest ridge Mount Fairweather from the Coast Range at 2000 feet of the peak. Our base was Lituya Bay, a beau­ (Arrows mark 5000 and 9000-foot camps) tiful harbor twenty miles below Cape Fair- s camp at the base of the south face of Mount Fair­ weather; we were able to land near the foot of the r weather, at 5,000 feet.
  • View from the Summit Over the Italian Side of Mont Blanc Is Breathtaking! Descent Via Normal Route

    View from the Summit Over the Italian Side of Mont Blanc Is Breathtaking! Descent Via Normal Route

    Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix 190 place de l’église - 74400 Chamonix – France - Tél : + 33 (0)4 50 53 00 88 www.chamonix-guides.com - e-mail : [email protected] AIGUILLE VERTE - PRIVE - TISON Duration: 5 days Level: Price from: 2 485 € The Chamonix Compagnie des Guides offers you a collection of programmes to climb the legendary peaks of the Alps. We have selected a route together with a specific preparatory package for each peak. Each route chosen is universally recognised as unmissable. Thanks to our unique centre of expertise, we can also guide you on other routes. So don’t hesitate to dream big, as our expertise is at your service to help you make your dreams come true. The Aiguille Verte is THE legendary peak in the Mont Blanc Massif. The celebrated mountaineer and writer Gaston Rébuffat contributed significantly to this reputation when he said of it: “Before the Verte one is a mountaineer, on the Verte one becomes a ‘Montagnard’ (mountain dweller)”. It is certainly true that there are no easy routes on this peak and each face is a significant challenge. The south side of the Aiguille Verte is an outstanding snow route that follows the Whymper Couloir for over 700 metres. This is unquestionably one of the most beautiful routes in the massif, and we offer a four-day programme for its ascent. ITINERARY Day 1 and Day 2 : Acclimatisation routes with a night in the Torino Hut (3370m) These first two days give your body the essential time it requires to adapt to altitude.