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AIGUILLES and DOLOMITES. by E. Thomas
268 Aiguilles and Dolomites . • AIGUILLES AND DoLOMITES. BY EUSTACE THOMAS. (Read before the Alpine Club, April 4, 1933.) T is four years since an article of mine entitled '· Six Years and the Four Thousanders,' an extension of a list furnished by Captain Farrar, appeared in the ALPINE JOURNAL ; 1 this gave a catalogue of Alpine peaks of a height of 4000 metres or over. My friends take a rather malicious delight in suggesting minor points and perhaps gendarmes on ridges to be added, and it is rather difficult to decide what ought or ought not to be included. Since that date, however, a list has appeared .in La JYlontagne under the signature of our member, Jean Chaubert; and with this I am in agreement. The principal addition was that of the Aiguilles du Diable, which I announced my intention of adding to the bag in my former paper. · In 1929 and 1930 the .Aiguilles du Diable were the principal objects of my desires, but were not in a fit state during my stay in the Alps those years. In 1930 I actually vvent to Chamonix from England for a second time in September ; but the weather changed for the wor$e on my arrival. All other points of Chaubert's list were gathered in however and, where there was any doubt, mountains were revisited. The original list was altered as follows .: Gran Paradiso, two points ; Massif of Mont Blanc two points on the Dome du Gouter were added, Pointe Bayeux and Poi1~te Bravais ; (:}ran des J orasses . Pointe Young was added; Grand Combin completely traversed to include five summits ; Breithorn completely traversed to include five summits; Jungfrau Group Wengern Jungfrau added. -
TARIFS PAR COURSE - Été 2021 Cette Liste Donne Un Exemple Des Tarifs À La Course « Classique »
TARIFS PAR COURSE - Été 2021 Cette liste donne un exemple des tarifs à la course « classique ». Mais en fonction des conditions (nuit en refuge, succession de courses) ils peuvent être revus à la hausse ou à la baisse Bassins Argentière-Trient Aiguille d'Argentière Flèche Rousse 780€ Arête du Génépi (avec une autre course depuis le refuge) 380€ Arête du Raboin 380€ Couloir en Y 780€ Plateau inf. / Dièdre central 400€ Voie normale 780€ Aiguille du Chardonnet Arête Forbes 780€ Face Nord 780€ Aiguille Dorées Arête sud 780€ Traversée 960€ Aiguille de la Purtscheller Arête Sud (2 jours engagement) 760€ Aiguille du Tour Arête de la Table (2 jours engagement) 760€ Couloir de la Table(2 jours engagement) 760€ Voie Normale (depuis le refuge) et école de glace 760€ Le Minaret éperon SE 870€ Les Ecandies en traversée 500€ Dolent (Mont) Arête Gallet 810€ Tête Blanche ou Petite Fourche (depuis le refuge) 600€ Traversée refuge Albert 1er- Champex (depuis le refuge) 600€ Chaîne des Drus au Triolet Aiguille de la Nonne, traversée 760€ Aiguille de l'Evèque Traversée Nonne/Evèque 800€ Voie normale 760€ Moine (Aig. du) Arête Sud (1px) 760€ Arête Sud intégrale 820€ Voie normale 760€ Verte (Aig.) Arête du Moine Fourchette 1 Arête des Grands Montets Fourchette 3 Couloir Whymper Fourchette 1 Courtes (Les) Pente NE 860€ En traversée 860€ trav + Ravanel-Mummery 1000€ Droites (Les) Arête Est 1000€ Drus (Aig. des) En traversée Fourchette 1 Voies du pilier Sud Fourchette 3 Bassins Leschaux - Géant Aiguille de Rochefort arête depuis Helbronner A/R 500€ Aiguille de -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
Traversée Des Pointes Lachenal 150 032 Triangle Du Tacul
031 Pointe Lachenal - Traversée des Pointes Lachenal 150 032 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Négri 152 PREFACE 5 033 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Grisolle 154 INTRODUCTION 6 034 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Mazeaud 156 GÉOGRAPHIE 10 035 Triangle du Tacul - Goulotte Chéré 158 NOTES TECHNIQUES 12 036 Mont Blanc du Tacul - Voie Normale 160 CONTACTS UTILES 18 037 Mont Maudit - Arête Est et Voie Normale en Boucle 162 uN ORNY-TRIENT 19 038 Mont Blanc - Voie des Trois Monts 164 001 Gendarme d’Orny - Voie Papa Paye 24 SEPT ST. GERVAIS-LES CONTAMINES 169 002 Aiguille de la Cabane - Voie du Bon Accueil 28 039 Mont Blanc - Voie Normale par l’Aiguille du Goûter et l’Arête des Bosses 176 003 Aiguille d’Orny - La Moquette 32 040 Aiguille de Bionnassay - Traversée des Arêtes Sud - Nord Est 179 004 Aiguilles Dorées - Couloir Copt 36 041 Dômes de Miage - Arête Mettrier au Dôme Oriental 183 005 Aiguille Sans Nom - Arête S et Demie Traversée des Aiguilles vers l’E 41 042 Dômes de Miage - Traversée des Dômes de Miage d’Est en Ouest 186 006 Tête Blanche - Face N 46 043 Aiguille Nord de Trélatête - Voie Normale de la Face NNO 189 DEuX BASSIN DU TOUR 49 HuiT VAL VENY-SEIGNE 191 007 Aiguille du Tour - Voie Normale à la Pointe S 54 044 Aiguille des Glaciers - Voie Normale de l’Arête Ouest 198 008 Aiguille du Tour - Coulouir de la Table 58 045 Dôme de Neige des Glaciers - Arête des Lanchettes 201 009 Aiguille du Chardonnet - Arête Forbes 60 046 Petit Mont Blanc - Voie Normale 204 010 Aiguille du Chardonnet - Éperon Migot 65 047 -
512J the Alpine Journal 2019 Inside.Indd 422 27/09/2019 10:58 I N D E X 2 0 1 9 423
Index 2019 A Alouette II 221 Aari Dont col 268 Alpi Biellesi 167 Abram 28 Alpine Journal 199, 201, 202, 205, 235, 332, 333 Absi 61 Alps 138, 139, 141, 150, 154, 156, 163, 165, 179 Aconcagua 304, 307 Altamirano, Martín 305 Adams, Ansel 178 Ama Dablam 280, 282 Adam Smith, Janet 348 American Alpine Journal 298 Adda valley 170 American Civil War 173 Adhikari, Rabindra 286 Amery, Leo 192 Aemmer, Rudolph 242 Amin, Idi 371 Ahlqvist, Carina 279 Amirov, Rustem 278 Aichyn 65 Ancohuma 242 Aichyn North 65, 66 Anderson, Rab 257 Aiguille Croux 248 Andes 172 Aiguille d’Argentière 101 Androsace 222 Aiguille de Bionnassay 88, 96, 99, 102, 104, 106, Angeles, Eugenio 310 109, 150, 248 Angeles, Macario 310 Aiguille de l’M 148 Angel in the Stone (The) Aiguille des Ciseaux 183 review 350 Aiguille des Glaciers 224 Angsi glacier 60 Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 242 Anker, Conrad 280, 329 Aiguille du Blaitière 183 Annapurna 82, 279, 282, 284 Aiguille du Goûter 213 An Teallach 255 Aiguille du Midi 142, 146, 211, 242 Antoinette, Marie 197 Aiguille du Moine 146, 147 Anzasca valley 167 Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 211 Api 45 Aiguilles Blaitière-Fou 183 Ardang 62, 65 Aiguilles de la Tré la Tête 88 Argentère 104 Aiguilles de l’M 183 Argentière glacier 101, 141, 220 Aiguilles Grands Charmoz-Grépon 183 Argentière hut 104 Aiguilles Grises 242 Arjuna 272 Aiguille Verte 104 Arnold, Dani 250 Ailfroide 334 Arpette valley 104 Albenza 168 Arunachal Pradesh 45 Albert, Kurt 294 Ashcroft, Robin 410 Alborz 119 Askari Aviation 290 Alexander, Hugh 394 Asper, Claudi 222 Allan, Sandy 260, -
AIGUILLE DE BIONNASSAY 4052 M (Relazione Stilata Dalla G.A
AIGUILLE DE BIONNASSAY 4052 m (Relazione stilata dalla G.A. Diego Filippi, 2018) Per la via Normale italiana Meravigliosa e superba cima, l’Aiguille de Bionnassay si eleva nettamente, tra il Col de Bionnassay e il Col del Miage, sulla lunga cresta ovest del Monte Bianco. Montagna decisamente elegante, deve la sua fama al profilo estetico della sua straordinaria lama ghiacciata che ne caratterizza la esile vetta. La prima ascensione spetta alla celebre guida di Chamonix Michel Payot, che con il collega Jean-Pierre Cacht, condusse in vetta la comitiva di inglesi E.N. Buxton, F.C. Grove e R.J.S. McDonald, il 28 luglio 1865, salendo per il versante nord ovest della montagna. Michel Payot lo troveremo anche successivamente come primo salitore dell’Aiguille de Rochefort nel 1873 e del Dôme di Rochefort nel 1881. Gli itinerari più frequentati che portano alla cima, la Normale Francese per la cresta sud e la Normale Italiana per la cresta est, sono salite in cresta di grandissimo interesse e soddisfazione, immerse in ambienti davvero isolati e selvaggi e caratterizzati da lunghissimi avvicinamenti per raggiungere i rifugi. La via Normale Italiana, per il ghiacciaio del Miage e del Dôme, segue in gran parte la Via Normale al Monte Bianco, staccandosi da questa solo nei pressi del Piton des Italiens. Club 4000 Gruppo della Sezione La via Normale Italiana Itinerario prevalentemente glaciale, immerso nel grandioso ambiente del versante occidentale del Monte Bianco. La salita al rifugio Gonnella, CAI di Torino seppur infinita e faticosa, è di grandissima soddisfazione. Uno spesso strato di detriti copre interamente il ghiacciaio del Miage rendendo Via G. -
Aiguille De Rochefort 4001M
Aiguille de Rochefort 4001m The Aiguille de Rochefort is a 4001 m high mountain situated in the middle of the long ridge that goes from Dent du Geant to the Grandes Jorasses. The snow ridge that goes to this peak is among some of the most famous and aestetichs route of the Alps. It's one of the best and recommended day tours in the Mont Blanc area. Program: 1st day: meeting with the guide at the Mont Blanc lift station at 7:00 o'clock. After the equipment-check we take the lift up to Rif. Torino station. Few steps and we are on the glacier.The first part, until the “Gengiva” is quite easy scrambling. From there we start to follow the narrow snow ridge that with few up and down goes at the bottom of the last difficult cliff. 3 pitches on solid granit and we are on top of the Aiguille de Rochefort. The way back is along the same itinerary; with 3 rappels we pass the rock cliff and then we follow the ridge back to the “Gengiva”. Following the same itinerary of the way up, we go back to Rif. Torino 4 to 5 hours 700m 3 hours 700 m You have to know: Accommodation: Hotel in Courmayeur Meeting point: At 7:00am at the lift station in Courmayeur. Requirements: Steep and mixed terrain, rock climbing up to grade III° and confidence with abseiling technique. Some previous experience in mountaineering is required. Weather: In the high mountains, even in summer, there could be extreme weather conditions. -
Les Clochers D'arpette
31 Les Clochers d’Arpette Portrait : large épaule rocheuse, ou tout du moins rocailleuse, de 2814 m à son point culminant. On trouve plusieurs points cotés sur la carte nationale, dont certains sont plus significatifs que d’autres. Quelqu’un a fixé une grande branche à l’avant-sommet est. Nom : en référence aux nombreux gendarmes rocheux recouvrant la montagne sur le Val d’Arpette et faisant penser à des clochers. Le nom provient surtout de deux grosses tours très lisses à 2500 m environ dans le versant sud-est (celui du Val d’Arpette). Dangers : fortes pentes, chutes de pierres et rochers à « varapper » Région : VS (massif du Mont Blanc), district d’Entremont, commune d’Orsières, Combe de Barmay et Val d’Arpette Accès : Martigny Martigny-Combe Les Valettes Champex Arpette Géologie : granites du massif cristallin externe du Mont Blanc Difficulté : il existe plusieurs itinéraires possibles, partant aussi bien d’Arpette que du versant opposé, mais il s’agit à chaque fois d’itinéraires fastidieux et demandant un pied sûr. La voie la plus courte et relativement pas compliquée consiste à remonter les pentes d’éboulis du versant sud-sud-ouest et ensuite de suivre l’arête sud-ouest exposée (cotation officielle : entre F et PD). Histoire : montagne parcourue depuis longtemps, sans doute par des chasseurs. L’arête est fut ouverte officiellement par Paul Beaumont et les guides François Fournier et Joseph Fournier le 04.09.1891. Le versant nord fut descendu à ski par Cédric Arnold et Christophe Darbellay le 13.01.1993. Spécificité : montagne sauvage, bien visible de la région de Fully et de ses environs, et donc offrant un beau panorama sur le district de Martigny, entre autres… 52 32 L’Aiguille d’Orny Portrait : aiguille rocheuse de 3150 m d’altitude, dotée d’aucun symbole, mais équipée d’un relais d’escalade. -
Notes 1971 the Alps Colin Taytor
Notes 1971 The Alps Colin Taytor Summary The summer season of 1971 must be one of the best on record. In the Western Alps the winter snowfall was late and less than usual, so the big classic faces came into condition early and remained in good condition for much of the season, in spite of several quite big storms in late July and August. A solo first ascent and half a dozen solo ascents of major routes were made by British climbers. British parties also made ascents of important routes such as the North-west faces of the Olan and the Ailefroide in the Dauphine, the Brouillard Pillars, the Grand Pilier d'Angle, the Central Pillar of Freney and the Droites North face in the Mont Blanc region, and of the Eiger and the Matterhorn North faces. Many other British parties made notable ascents and the notes below, while not complete, are confined mainly to their achievements. Details of ascents by continental climbers can be found in Alpine Climbing and in the continental journals, particularly La Montagne and Alpinismus. I am grateful particularly to Doug Scott, the Editor of Alpine Climbing and to Ken Wilson, the Editor of Mountain for collecting much of the information on which these notes are based, and also to many others who sent in information about their routes. DAUPHINE Probably more English parties climbed in the Dauphine in the summer of 1971 than ever before. Weather conditions were good, particularly during July, although several big storms occurred in August. As a result, many of the big routes were in condition. -
Peaks & Glaciers®
Peaks & Glaciers® 2021 JOHN MITCHELL FINE PAINTINGS EST 1931 Peaks & Glaciers® 2021 20th Anniversary Exhibition Catalogue All paintings, drawings and photographs are for sale and are available for viewing from Monday to Friday by prior appointment at: John Mitchell Fine Paintings 17 Avery Row Brook Street London W1K 4BF Catalogue compiled and written by William Mitchell. [email protected] + 44 (0)207 493 7567 www.johnmitchell.net To mark our twentieth Peaks & Glaciers exhibition, a dedicated and 3 richly illustrated book will be published later in the spring of this year. Drawing on two decades of specializing in these paintings, drawings Anneler 43 and rare photographs of the Alps, the anniversary publication will chart some of the highlights that have passed through my hands. The Avanti 16 accompanying essay will attempt to explain – to both veteran followers and newcomers alike- why collectors and readers of these annual Braun 44 catalogues continue to enjoy receiving them and why this author Bright 26 derives such pleasure from sourcing and identifying the pictures that are offered. Above all, it promises to be a beautiful homage to the Alps Calame 24, 38 in a year when many people have been unable to spend time in the Colombi 20, 27 mountains and inhale, in the great climber and author Leslie Stephen’s words, ‘all those lungfuls of fresh air’. Contencin 6, 12, 15, 36, 39, 40, 43 da Casalino 48 Details of the book and how to get a copy will be sent to all Peaks & Glaciers enthusiasts nearer the time. Daures 18 Fourcy 14, 19 There has already been some significant snowfall in many parts of the Alps this winter and, as per every season, it is difficult to know in Grimm 11 advance which areas will receive more than others. -
4000Er UIAA-Liste
4000er UIAA-Liste Gipfel Gebiet Höhe Mont Blanc Montblanc-Gruppe 4807 m Mont Blanc de Courmayeur Montblanc-Gruppe 4748 m Dufourspitze Walliser Alpen 4634 m Nordend Walliser Alpen 4609 m Zumsteinspitze Walliser Alpen 4563 m Signalkuppe Walliser Alpen 4556 m Dom Walliser Alpen 4545 m Liskamm Walliser Alpen 4527 m Weisshorn Walliser Alpen 4505 m Täschhorn Walliser Alpen 4491 m Liskamm (Westgipfel) Walliser Alpen 4480 m Matterhorn Walliser Alpen 4477 m Pic Luigi Amedeo Montblanc-Gruppe 4469 m Mont Maudit Montblanc-Gruppe 4465 m Parrotspitze Walliser Alpen 4432 m Dent Blanche Walliser Alpen 4357 m Ludwigshöhe Walliser Alpen 4341 m Nadelhorn Walliser Alpen 4327 m Schwarzhorn Walliser Alpen 4321 m Grand Combin (de Grafeneire) Walliser Alpen 4314 m Dôme du Goûter Montblanc-Gruppe 4304 m Lenzspitze Walliser Alpen 4294 m Finsteraarhorn Berner Alpen 4274 m Mont Blanc du Tacul Montblanc-Gruppe 4248 m Mont Blanc (Südgrat, Grande Pilier d'Angle) Montblanc-Gruppe 4243 m Stecknadelhorn Walliser Alpen 4241 m Castor Walliser Alpen 4226 m Zinalrothorn Walliser Alpen 4221 m Hohberghorn Walliser Alpen 4219 m Piramide Vincent Walliser Alpen 4215 m Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Walker) Montblanc-Gruppe 4208 m Alphubel Walliser Alpen 4206 m Rimpfischhorn Walliser Alpen 4199 m Aletschhorn Berner Alpen 4195 m Strahlhorn Walliser Alpen 4190 m Grand Combin de Valsorey Walliser Alpen 4184 m Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Whymper) Montblanc-Gruppe 4184 m Dent d'Hérens Walliser Alpen 4171 m Breithorn Walliser Alpen 4165 m Breithorn (Mittelgipfel) Walliser Alpen 4160 m Jungfrau -
One Hundred Years Ago (With Extracts from the Alpine Journal)
CA RUSSELL One Hundred Years Ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal) (Plates 57-61) he fIrst attempt to ascend Mont Blanc in the twentieth centuryl was T made on Thursday, but without success. Even before the Pierre Pointue was reached the snow was found to be so deep that racquettes had to be used, while at the Grand Junction of the Glacier de Taconna progress was rendered very difficult from the same cause. On reaching Grands Mulets (10,007 feet), it was decided to give up the task of reaching the actual summit owing to the great depth of the snow and the intense cold, and signs ofwind. Moreover, one of the guides was suffering from frostbite. The party, consisting of Mr. Crofts and the guides Joseph Demarchi, Fran~ois Mugnier and Jules Monard spent the night at the Grands Mulets, and descended to Chamonix next morning. The severe conditions experienced by Mr Crofts' party on 17 January 1901 were prolonged by exceptionally cold winds which persisted for several weeks in many Alpine regions. Although little mountaineering was possi ble the fust ski ascents of two peaks were completed: on 30 March Henry Hoek and Ernst Schottelius climbed the Dammastock; and on 28 May Schottelius, accompanied by Friedrich Reichert, reached the summit of the Oberaarhorn. A period of fine weather which commenced in May prompted an early start to the climbing season and by the end of the fIrst week in June a number of successful expeditions had been completed. Throughout Switzerland glorious, warm weather is being experienced, and with it Alpine climbing has begun in real earnest.