The Alps 2008
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Trip Factsheet: Piz Bernina Ski Tour the Piz Bernina Overlooks The
Trip Factsheet: Piz Bernina Ski Tour The Piz Bernina overlooks the Engardine valley in Switzerland and despite its proximity to the glitzy resort of St. Moritz the ski touring is quiet and unspoiled. It covers some challenging terrain and dramatic scenery with some big days out at altitude for the avid ski tourer. Travel to and from Silvaplana The closest airport is Zurich. Transfer time to Silvaplana by rail is about 4 hours 15 mins. For train timetables and fares please look at www.sbb.ch/en You want to arrange to arrive in Silvaplana by late afternoon on the Saturday. At the end of the week the tour finishes after breakfast on the second Saturday and we recommend that you arrange your return/onward flight for mid/late afternoon to give yourself plenty of time to get to the airport without having to rush! Want to take the train to the resort? No problem – it’s possible to get to St. Moritz by train from the UK using the Eurostar from London St. Pancras to Paris, then the TGV to Basel and onward via regional train. The journey can be done in 1 day. For more information and other useful train travel details look at www.snowcarbon.co.uk Swiss Transfer Ticket - this is a return ticket from the Swiss boarder or one of Switzerland's airports to your destination. The ticket is valid for 1 month, but each journey must be completed in one day and on the most direct route. The transfer ticket cannot be brought in Switzerland you must do it in advance from a sales point like the Switzerland Travel Centre in London. -
Incontri Ravvicinati
Montagne360 La rivista del Club alpino italiano novembre 2015 € 3,90 ALLE PORTE DEL CIELO INCONTRI RAVViciNATI Il sogno himalayano A tu per tu con la favolosa fauna di un alpinista qualunque dell’Appennino centrale La GROTTA DI FUmaNE Alla ricerca dei primi uomini moderni del Club alpino italiano n. 38/2014. Poste Italiane Spa, sped. in abb. Post. - 45% 2 art. comma 20/b Post. - in legge 662/96 sped. Italiane abb. Filiale Spa, di Milano Poste del Club alpino italiano 38/2014. n. 3,90. Rivista mensile 3,90. € Montagne360. Novembre 2015, 2015, Novembre Montagne360. Editoriale Offerta riservata solo ai Soci orizzonti e orientamenti CLUB ALPINO ITALIANO Facciamo sentire la voce della montagne del P Abbonati mondo alla Conferenza sul clima Ormai ci siamo. Il 30 novembre partirà la Conferenza Parigi 2015 sul Clima, con lo sconto di oltre il COP21. Un’occasione da non perdere per far sentire la voce delle montagne del mondo. In un mio editoriale auspicavo una alleanza dei club alpini sul tema del contrasto ai cambiamenti climatici che vedesse il CAI, che è molto attivo su que- sto fronte, come motore propulsivo. A ulteriore conferma della proattività del CAI, mentre vi proponevo questa riflessione, il nostro Sodalizio, stava inviando all’UIAA (Union Internationale des Association d’Alpinisme) la proposta di in- serire nell’ordine del giorno dell’Assemblea generale di Seoul in Corea (20-24 ottobre 2015) l’adozione di una Delibera sul cambiamento climatico da parte delle Federazioni membri dell’Unione. Il CAI propone all’Assemblea, riprenden- do anche quanto espresso già nel 2013 da Mr. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
Stevie Haston Aleš Česen Malcolm Bass Tom Ballard Steve Skelton F.Lli Franchini Korra Pesce
# 33 Stile Alpino Luoghi & Montagne MONTE BIANCO BHAGIRATHI III CIVETTA KISHTWAR SHIVLING GASHERBRUM IV HIMALAYA MALTA TAULLIRAJU Protagonisti STEVIE HASTON ALEš ČESEN MALCOLM BASS TOM BALLARD STEVE SKELTON F.LLI FRANCHINI KORRA PESCE Speciale PILASTRO ROSSO DEL BROUILLARD In collaborazione con: ALPINE STUDIO EDITORE Trimestrale anno VIII n° 33 settembre 2016 (n. 3/2016) € 4,90 La giacca più leggera e impermeabile del momento LIGHTWEIGHT WITHOUT COMPROMISE MINIMUS 777 JACKET Con un peso di soli 139g, la Minimus 777 è una giacca per Alpinismo e da Trail di una leggerezza estrema, con 3 strati impermeabili, una traspirabilità elevata e una comprimibilità senza precedenti. Pertex® Shield + exclusive technology: 7 denier face, 7 micron membrane, 7 denier tricot backer montane.eu La giacca più leggera e EDITORIAL # 33 impermeabile del momento • Firstly I would like to openly admit that I do not really like to write about or com- ment on other peoples mountaineering endeavors, because it is impossible to comple- tely understand an experience in the mountains unless you have lived it yourself. Ten years after my predecessor I will have the difficult task to replace Fabio Palma in writing the editorials of Stile Alpino. Certainly he is better skilled than me in writing and has been one of the creators of this magazine founded by the Ragni di Lecco group. Nonetheless, I will try to be up to the job helping to select the last ascents around the world and to suggest new places but always taking care to include ascents in the Alps and close to home. The objective of Stile Alpino is to improve and steadily grow in order to publish ar- ticles, that might not have been published before, on ascents in unknown or known areas. -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
The Eiger Myth Compiled by Marco Bomio
The Eiger Myth Compiled by Marco Bomio Compiled by Marco Bomio, 3818 Grindelwald 1 The Myth «If the wall can be done, then we will do it – or stay there!” This assertion by Edi Rainer and Willy Angerer proved tragically true for them both – they stayed there. The first attempt on the Eiger North Face in 1936 went down in history as the most infamous drama surrounding the North Face and those who tried to conquer it. Together with their German companions Andreas Hinterstoisser and Toni Kurz, the two Austrians perished in this wall notorious for its rockfalls and suddenly deteriorating weather. The gruesome image of Toni Kurz dangling in the rope went around the world. Two years later, Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek managed the first ascent of the 1800-metre-high face. 70 years later, local professional mountaineer Ueli Steck set a new record by climbing it in 2 hours and 47 minutes. 1.1 How the Eiger Myth was made In the public perception, its exposed north wall made the Eiger the embodiment of a perilous, difficult and unpredictable mountain. The persistence with which this image has been burnt into the collective memory is surprising yet explainable. The myth surrounding the Eiger North Face has its initial roots in the 1930s, a decade in which nine alpinists were killed in various attempts leading up to the successful first ascent in July 1938. From 1935 onwards, the climbing elite regarded the North Face as “the last problem in the Western Alps”. This fact alone drew the best climbers – mainly Germans, Austrians and Italians at the time – like a magnet to the Eiger. -
For the Reh~ of the Day
for the reh~ of the day. Setting o~tt at three A.M. on May 30, they evacuated Camp II and dcsccndcd to Camp I at seven A.M. and to Base Camp at ~cn A.M. Camp I was evacuated on May 3 I and Base Camp on June I WC got 10 La&en on J~tnc 2. We ~tsetl no fixed ropes. WC had 1‘0~11.8tnm ropes only (two for cad1 party) and so the ascent was semi-alpine-style. Our route was the same as that of the previous parIies. S’i/t/o/c/~l/ Attrnrpt. Our expedition wa\ composed of Sen Hiraiami, Atau\hi Koyama. Ryouke Wakuuwa and I as lea&r. On May 8. we reached only 3X00 meter\ aticl had to turn bath beca~i~ of bad weather and a tight schedule. We established Baw Camp at Yabuk at 3978 meter< on May 3. Advance Base at 4570 meters on May 5 and after closing the Zctnu Glacter. Camp I at 4600 meter\ on the Siniolchu Glacier on May 7. This wa\ really a reconnaissance for 1995. M,zG\~o NOV. M.D., 7i,lroX~r U/tr~~/.\it\, SC/too/ c~fMdic,ir7c, h/m Ktrhu, Sr~tl7. An Indian Army expedition led by Colonel H.S. Chaukan, former head of the Hitnalaynn Mountaineering Institute in Manali claitns to have climbed Kabru South (7.3 17 meters, 24.096 feet) for the first time. It is reported that I.3 mcmbcrs reached the top led by Captain S.P. -
512J the Alpine Journal 2019 Inside.Indd 422 27/09/2019 10:58 I N D E X 2 0 1 9 423
Index 2019 A Alouette II 221 Aari Dont col 268 Alpi Biellesi 167 Abram 28 Alpine Journal 199, 201, 202, 205, 235, 332, 333 Absi 61 Alps 138, 139, 141, 150, 154, 156, 163, 165, 179 Aconcagua 304, 307 Altamirano, Martín 305 Adams, Ansel 178 Ama Dablam 280, 282 Adam Smith, Janet 348 American Alpine Journal 298 Adda valley 170 American Civil War 173 Adhikari, Rabindra 286 Amery, Leo 192 Aemmer, Rudolph 242 Amin, Idi 371 Ahlqvist, Carina 279 Amirov, Rustem 278 Aichyn 65 Ancohuma 242 Aichyn North 65, 66 Anderson, Rab 257 Aiguille Croux 248 Andes 172 Aiguille d’Argentière 101 Androsace 222 Aiguille de Bionnassay 88, 96, 99, 102, 104, 106, Angeles, Eugenio 310 109, 150, 248 Angeles, Macario 310 Aiguille de l’M 148 Angel in the Stone (The) Aiguille des Ciseaux 183 review 350 Aiguille des Glaciers 224 Angsi glacier 60 Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 242 Anker, Conrad 280, 329 Aiguille du Blaitière 183 Annapurna 82, 279, 282, 284 Aiguille du Goûter 213 An Teallach 255 Aiguille du Midi 142, 146, 211, 242 Antoinette, Marie 197 Aiguille du Moine 146, 147 Anzasca valley 167 Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 211 Api 45 Aiguilles Blaitière-Fou 183 Ardang 62, 65 Aiguilles de la Tré la Tête 88 Argentère 104 Aiguilles de l’M 183 Argentière glacier 101, 141, 220 Aiguilles Grands Charmoz-Grépon 183 Argentière hut 104 Aiguilles Grises 242 Arjuna 272 Aiguille Verte 104 Arnold, Dani 250 Ailfroide 334 Arpette valley 104 Albenza 168 Arunachal Pradesh 45 Albert, Kurt 294 Ashcroft, Robin 410 Alborz 119 Askari Aviation 290 Alexander, Hugh 394 Asper, Claudi 222 Allan, Sandy 260, -
Alpejskie 4-Tysięczniki
Alpejskie 4-tysięczniki Po zdobyciu kilku 4-ro tysięczników przyszło mi do głowy zrobienie listy (a jakże) i kompletowanie pozostałych szczytów. Na stronie Pettera znalazłem potrzebne informacje. W Alpach jest 51 szczytów o wysokości bezwzględnej powyżej 4000 metrów i wybitności nie mniejszej niż 100 metrów, czyli takich, które pasują do definicji „prawdziwej” góry. W 1994 roku UIAA ogłosiła oficjalną listę aż 82 szczytów czterotysięcznych i te dodatkowe 31 są zamieszczone na poniższej liście jako szczyty „nie ujęte w rankingu” (NR). Istnieje wiele punktów spornych na tej liście. Znajdują się na niej wierzchołki o wybitności zaledwie kilkumetrowej, podczas gdy pominięte są na niej wierzchołki o wybitności kilkudziesięciometrowej. Nie planuję wdawać się w dyskusję co jest „prawdziwą” górą a co nią nie jest. Podobnie jak przy innych projektach, tak i tu chodzi przecież o to, by być w ruchu. Kolorem zielonym oznaczam szczyty przeze mnie zdobyte, natomiast kolorem żółtym te, z którymi żadna próba do tej pory się nie powiodła. Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 01 Mont Blanc 4810 4697 PD 02 Dufourspitze 4634 2165 PD 03 Zumsteinspitze 4563 111 F 04 Signalkuppe 4556 102 F 05 Dom 4545 1018 PD 06 Liskamm (east) 4527 376 AD 07 Weisshorn 4505 1055 AD Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 08 Täschhorn 4490 209 AD 09 Matterhorn 4478 1164 AD- 10 Mont Maudit 4465 162 PD 11 Parrotspitze 4436 136 PD 12 Dent Blanche 4356 897 AD 13 Nadelhorn 4327 206 PD 14 Grand Combin 4314 1517 PD+ 15 Finsteraarhorn 4273 2108 PD 16 Mont Blanc du Tacul 4247 -
Climbing in the Ecrins
DUNCAN TUNSTALL Climbing in the Ecrins he quantity and quality of high-standard rock climbs now available in T all areas of the Alps is astounding. Many of the areas are well known Chamonix, the Bregaglia, the Sella Pass area of the Dolomites, Sanetsch and, of course, Handeg. All offer routes of high quality and perfect rock. There is only one problem with these areas and that is that they are too popular. Fortunately, for those of us who value solitude in the mountains, there are still regions inthe Alps that provide routes of equal standing to the above but, for reasons not entirely understood, do not attract the crowds. One of the best kept secrets in British climbing circles is that some of the finest rock climbing in the Alps is now to be found in the Ecrins massif where many ofthe climbs stand comparison with anything that Chamonix or the Bregaglia have to offer. The quality of the rock is more than ade quate on most routes, although the odd slightly suspect pitch may add a spice of adventure. This factor has given the range an unfair reputation for looseness which, when combined with a lack of telepheriques, has been effective in keeping the crowds away. A brief summary follows of the best of the granite climbing in the Ecrins massif. But first I feel I ought to say something about the use of bolts. This is a difficult subject and many words have already been expended on it. My own views are simple: the high mountains, like our own small cliffs, are no place for bolts. -
Inalto-2020.Pdf
In Alto Direttore responsabile Registrazione Tribunale di Udine serie V, Volume C, Alessandra Beltrame n. 266 del 3.12.1970 anno CXL – 2020 ISSN 1827-353X Redazione Società Alpina Friulana Claudio Mitri Distribuito gratuitamente Sezione di Udine ai soci della SAF del Club Alpino Italiano Progetto grafico ODV Raffaella De Reggi Copie e arretrati Via Brigata Re, 29 Società Alpina Friulana 33100 Udine [email protected] www.alpinafriulana.it Con il sostegno della Pagina 4: stemma allegorico della Società Alpina Friulana stampato sul fascicolo delle nozze d’argento di Giovanni Marinelli con Carolina Orlandi, febbraio 1895. Litografia Passero (archivio Umberto Sello) IN ALTO 100 IN ALTO Cronaca della Società Alpina Friulana SERIE V - VOLUME C ANNO CXL - 2020 SOMMARIO Editoriali Volgere lo sguardo alla bellezza Vincenzo Torti ........................................ 8 Cento volte Saf Enrico Brisighelli ............................................................. 10 Cultura alpina Alessandra Beltrame.......................................................... 13 Pensieri e studi Emersioni di lettura Silvia Metzeltin ........................................................ 16 La montagna come antidoto al virus Augusto Cosulich ........................... 21 Il mistero della pergamena Paolo Cavallanti ............................................ 37 Prime salite femminili al Montasio Daniela Durissini .............................. 45 Una misconosciuta ricchezza Sebastiano Parmegiani ............................... 55 L’Alta Via delle Alpi Giulie -
Berg – Erfahrungen
1 BERG – ERFAHRUNGEN Bergsport, ein kulturdynamisches Phänomen Diplomarbeit zur Erlangung des akademischen Grades einer Magistra der Philosophie/ an der Karl-Franzens-Universität Graz vorgelegt von Elfriede Maria Lackner am Institut für *..Volkskunde und Kulturanthropologie Begutachter(in)**Univ.Prof. Dr._in Johanna Rolshoven Graz, 2011 2 INHALTSVERZEICHNIS Seite 1. Vorbemerkungen 1.1. Berg - Erfahrungen 2010 1 1.2. Einleitung - Ausgangfragen – Theorien – Hypothesen 3 2. Raume - Orte – Strukturen 2.1. Begriffe und Verortungen 8 2.2. Die Darstellung des Phänomens in Zahlen 11 2.2.1. Die historische Gleichzeitigkeit 13 2.2.2. Entstehung und Transformation des Bildes Bergsport 15 2.3. Bergsport und Kulturtheorien 17 2.4. Exemplarische Darstellung der Feldforschung 20 2.5. Methodische Ansätze oder eine an das Feld angepasste Methode 21 2.5.1. Feldforschungsinhalte und Erkenntnisinteressen 23 2.5.2. Darstellung und Begründung des Forschungsdesigns 27 3. Wahrnehmung und Interpretation bergsportlichen Tuns 29 3.1. Forschungsregionen und Forschungsinhalte im Kontext 30 3.1.1. Bergwelten in Tirol : Der Wilde und der Zahme Kaiser 30 3.1.2. Bergwelt Nationalpark Gesäuse in der Steiermark - Die Hesshütte ………………..34 3.2. Exemplarische Darstellung und Analyse der Forschungsdaten Fallbeispiel 1: Tirol – Wilder und Zahmer Kaiser 38 3.2.1. Von den Quellen zur Analyse 40 3.2.2. Expertengespräche / Ergänzungen 53 3.3. Exemplarische Darstellung und Analyse der Forschungsdaten Fallbeispiel 2: Nationalpark Gesäuse – Die Hesshütte 57 3.3.1. Altersspezifische Sichtweisen des Bergsportes in der Postmoderne 76 3 4 Markierte und unmarkierte Wege 80 4.1.Forschungsfelder im historischen Kontext 81 4.2. Gipfelerlebnisse und Rituale 84 4.3. Ganzheitlichkeit – Genuss – Ruhe –Muße 86 5.