The Peuterey Ridge
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Cíl Všech Horolezccíl Všech Horolezců Na Vrchol Mont Blanc Vede Více Cest
Grandes Jorasses Dent du Géant Aiguille du Midi Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Maudit Mont Blanc Dôme du Goûter Aiguilles de Bionnassay 4208 m 4013 m 3842 m 4248 m 4465 m 4810 m 4304 m 4052 m Refuge des Refuge des Grands Mulets Refuge du Goûter Refuge de Tête Rousse Cosmiques 3051 m 3835 m 3167 m 3613 m Arête du Dôme La Jonction Plan de l’aiguille ! Uvědomte si nebezpečí Chamonix Nepleťte si obtížnost s nebezpečím. Nejrušnější cesty na Mont Blanc nejsou odborně řečeno nijak Plan de zvlášť náročné. Avšak vyskytují se na nich všechna nebezpečí spojená s tímto prostředím. Dosažení vrcholu Mont Blanc l'Aiguille 7 cest na vrchol Alp Pro snížení rizika začněte nejprve s identifikací nebezpečí terénu a monitorováním aktuálního stavu a možností členů vaší skupiny. Cíl všech horolezcCíl všech horolezců Na vrchol Mont Blanc vede více cest. St-Gervais- 3 les-Bains léphérique Té Nadmořská výška Vyzkoušet některou z méně klasických cest může být zábavné, zvláště v ruš- Pro nás horolezce, kteří kolikrát cestujeme tisíce kilometrů, abychom vylezli na vrchol nějším období. Techničtější pasáže vyžadují velké zkušenosti. Kvůli obtížnosti a Čím výše stoupáte, tím méně je kyslíku. les Houches AHN (akutní horská nemoc) je neustálou hrozbou. Bolest hlavy, Mont Blancu, je to něco víc než jen další vrchol v deníčku. Je to sen, někdy i legenda. Historie naší hlavně kvůli riziku expozice. TMB nespavost, dýchavičnost, nechutenství, pocit ucpaného nosu...hlavní příznaky se mohou objevit již v 3 500 m. vášně je vepsána do jeho svahů. Horlivé snažení, nedotčené svahy a elegantní štíty, přátelství na Nedá se dělat nic jiného, než se vrátit zpět. -
Note on the History of the Innominata Face of Mont Blanc De Courmayeur
1 34 HISTORY OF THE INNOMINATA FACE them difficult but solved the problem by the most exposed, airy and exhilarating ice-climb I ever did. I reckon sixteen essentially different ways to Mont Blanc. I wish I had done them all ! NOTE ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. 1. This was taken from the inner end of Col Eccles in 1921 during the ascent of Mont Blanc by Eccles' route. Pie Eccles is seen high on the right, and the top of the Aiguille Noite de Peteret just shows over the left flank of the Pie. FIG. 2. This was taken from the lnnominata face in 1919 during a halt at 13.30 on the crest of the branch rib. The skyline shows the Aiguille Blanche de Peteret on the extreme left (a snow cap), with Punta Gugliermina at the right end of what appears to be a level summit ridge but really descends steeply. On the right of the deep gap is the Aiguille Noire de Peteret with the middle section of the Fresney glacier below it. The snow-sprinkled rock mass in the right lower corner is Pie Eccles a bird's eye view. FIG. 3. This was taken at the same time as Fig. 2, with which it joins. Pie Eccles is again seen, in the left lower corner. To the right of it, in the middle of the view, is a n ear part of the branch rib, and above that is seen a bird's view of the Punta lnnominata with the Aiguille Joseph Croux further off to the left. -
British Alpine Ski Traverse 1972 Peter Cliff 13
British Alpine Ski Traverse 1972 Peter Cliff In 1956 the Italian guide Waiter Bonatti traversed the Alps with three others on skis from the JuIian Alps to the French Riviera. This was followed in 1965 by Denis Bertholet and an international party of guides who started near Innsbruck and finished at Grenoble. In 1970 Robert Kittl with three other Austrians completed a very fast crossing in 40 days. The challenge for us was twofold: we were to be the first British party, and whereas the others had been predominantly professional guides we were all amateurs. The route we took was from Kaprun, s of Salzburg, to Gap, which is between Nice and Grenoble. The straight line distance was 400 miles (by comparison the straight line distance for the normal Haute Route between Argentiere and Zermatt is 40 miles), and we ascended at least 120,000 ft excluding uphill transport. It took 49 days including halts. The party was: Alan BIackshaw (leader), Michael de Pret Roose (deputy leader and route Klosters to Zermatt), Fl-Lt Dan Drew RAF (food), Peter Judson (equipment), Dr Hamish Nicol (medical), Lt-Col John Peacock REME (route Chamonix to Gap), Dick Sykes (finance) and myself (route Zermatt to Chamonix). On the first section to the Brenner pass we had with us Waiter Mann, who had been very much involved with the planning ofthe whole Austrian section. Support in the field was provided by Brig Gerry Finch and Major David Gore in a Range Rover. The other people who were closely involved were the members of the BBC TV team who filmed a good part of . -
ALPINE NOTES. Date of the ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY: Election
Alpine Notes . 381 The Triglav 'N. Face' is between 700 and 800 rrL high in t hat portion traversed by the ' Jug' route, and for the first three parts of the route it is almost sheer. Great smooth slabs, occurring in successive series, constitute the special and characteristic difficulty. The climb occupied 16 hours in all. F . S. C. ALPINE NOTES. Date of THE ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY: Election Allport, D . W. • • • • • • • 1875 Colgrove, J. B . • • • • • • • 1876 Morse, Sir George H. • • • • • • 1887 Holmes, .Alfred • • • • • • • 1894 Shea, C. E .. • • • • • • • 1896 Nicholson, L. D . • • • • • • 1902 Candler, H. • • • • • • • 1905 Collin, T. • • • • • • • • 1907 Schofield, J . W. • • • • • • 1907 Drake, Canon F. W. • • • • • • 1908 Kidd, Canon J. H . • • • • • • 1921 Morshead, Lt.-Col. H. T. • • • • • 1922 Painter, A. R. • • • • • • • 1923 Wright, W. A. • • • • • • • 1925 Peto, R . H . K . • • • • • • • 1929 THE CLOSING OF THE ITALIAN ALPS. If a little easier in fre _quented districts during t he height of summer, there are no real signs of improvement in the general situation, which continues to be unsatisfactory. During the C.A.I. Congress at Botzen, the President announced that 18 passes, hitherto closed, would be open between t he Stelvio and Pontebba in 1932. The S.A.C. and letters of t he REv. W. A. B. CooLIDGE. The Librarian of the S.A.C. Central Library, Zurich, requests us to announce that, ' together with the Alpine portion of Mr. Coolidge's library, the S.A.C. has collected during the course of the year, in their library at Zurich, many letters belonging to that distinguished mountaineer. It is true that Mr. -
512J the Alpine Journal 2019 Inside.Indd 422 27/09/2019 10:58 I N D E X 2 0 1 9 423
Index 2019 A Alouette II 221 Aari Dont col 268 Alpi Biellesi 167 Abram 28 Alpine Journal 199, 201, 202, 205, 235, 332, 333 Absi 61 Alps 138, 139, 141, 150, 154, 156, 163, 165, 179 Aconcagua 304, 307 Altamirano, Martín 305 Adams, Ansel 178 Ama Dablam 280, 282 Adam Smith, Janet 348 American Alpine Journal 298 Adda valley 170 American Civil War 173 Adhikari, Rabindra 286 Amery, Leo 192 Aemmer, Rudolph 242 Amin, Idi 371 Ahlqvist, Carina 279 Amirov, Rustem 278 Aichyn 65 Ancohuma 242 Aichyn North 65, 66 Anderson, Rab 257 Aiguille Croux 248 Andes 172 Aiguille d’Argentière 101 Androsace 222 Aiguille de Bionnassay 88, 96, 99, 102, 104, 106, Angeles, Eugenio 310 109, 150, 248 Angeles, Macario 310 Aiguille de l’M 148 Angel in the Stone (The) Aiguille des Ciseaux 183 review 350 Aiguille des Glaciers 224 Angsi glacier 60 Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 242 Anker, Conrad 280, 329 Aiguille du Blaitière 183 Annapurna 82, 279, 282, 284 Aiguille du Goûter 213 An Teallach 255 Aiguille du Midi 142, 146, 211, 242 Antoinette, Marie 197 Aiguille du Moine 146, 147 Anzasca valley 167 Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 211 Api 45 Aiguilles Blaitière-Fou 183 Ardang 62, 65 Aiguilles de la Tré la Tête 88 Argentère 104 Aiguilles de l’M 183 Argentière glacier 101, 141, 220 Aiguilles Grands Charmoz-Grépon 183 Argentière hut 104 Aiguilles Grises 242 Arjuna 272 Aiguille Verte 104 Arnold, Dani 250 Ailfroide 334 Arpette valley 104 Albenza 168 Arunachal Pradesh 45 Albert, Kurt 294 Ashcroft, Robin 410 Alborz 119 Askari Aviation 290 Alexander, Hugh 394 Asper, Claudi 222 Allan, Sandy 260, -
Climatic Reconstruction for the Younger Dryas/Early Holocene
Climatic reconstruction for the Younger Dryas/Early Holocene transition and the Little Ice Age based on paleo-extents of Argentière glacier (French Alps) Marie Protin, Irene Schimmelpfennig, Jean-louis Mugnier, Ludovic Ravanel, Melaine Le Roy, Philip Deline, Vincent Favier, Jean-François Buoncristiani, Team Aster, Didier Bourlès, et al. To cite this version: Marie Protin, Irene Schimmelpfennig, Jean-louis Mugnier, Ludovic Ravanel, Melaine Le Roy, et al.. Climatic reconstruction for the Younger Dryas/Early Holocene transition and the Little Ice Age based on paleo-extents of Argentière glacier (French Alps). Quaternary Science Reviews, Elsevier, 2019, 221, pp.105863. 10.1016/j.quascirev.2019.105863. hal-03102778 HAL Id: hal-03102778 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-03102778 Submitted on 7 Jan 2021 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. 1 Climatic reconstruction for the Younger Dryas/Early Holocene 2 transition and the Little Ice Age based on paleo-extents of 3 Argentière glacier (French Alps) 4 5 Marie Protina, Irene Schimmelpfenniga, -
Mountaineering Ventures
70fcvSs )UNTAINEERING Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY by the ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY 1980 v Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from University of Toronto http://www.archive.org/details/mountaineeringveOObens 1 £1. =3 ^ '3 Kg V- * g-a 1 O o « IV* ^ MOUNTAINEERING VENTURES BY CLAUDE E. BENSON Ltd. LONDON : T. C. & E. C. JACK, 35 & 36 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. AND EDINBURGH PREFATORY NOTE This book of Mountaineering Ventures is written primarily not for the man of the peaks, but for the man of the level pavement. Certain technicalities and commonplaces of the sport have therefore been explained not once, but once and again as they occur in the various chapters. The intent is that any reader who may elect to cull the chapters as he lists may not find himself unpleasantly confronted with unfamiliar phraseology whereof there is no elucidation save through the exasperating medium of a glossary or a cross-reference. It must be noted that the percentage of fatal accidents recorded in the following pages far exceeds the actual average in proportion to ascents made, which indeed can only be reckoned in many places of decimals. The explanation is that this volume treats not of regular routes, tariffed and catalogued, but of Ventures—an entirely different matter. Were it within his powers, the compiler would wish ade- quately to express his thanks to the many kind friends who have assisted him with loans of books, photographs, good advice, and, more than all, by encouraging countenance. Failing this, he must resort to the miserably insufficient re- source of cataloguing their names alphabetically. -
Mer De Glace” (Mont Blanc Area, France) AD 1500–2050: an Interdisciplinary Approach Using New Historical Data and Neural Network Simulations
Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie Herausgegeben von MICHAEL KUHN BAND 40 (2005/2006) ISSN 0044-2836 UNIVERSITÄTSVERLAG WAGNER · INNSBRUCK 1907 wurde von Eduard Brückner in Wien der erste Band der Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas fertig gestellt. Mit dem 16. Band über- nahm 1928 Raimund von Klebelsberg in Innsbruck die Herausgabe der Zeitschrift, deren 28. Band 1942 erschien. Nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg gab Klebelsberg die neue Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie im Universitätsverlag Wagner in Innsbruck heraus. Der erste Band erschien 1950. 1970 übernahmen Herfried Hoinkes und Hans Kinzl die Herausgeberschaft, von 1979 bis 2001 Gernot Patzelt und Michael Kuhn. In 1907 this Journal was founded by Eduard Brückner as Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas. Raimund von Klebelsberg followed as editor in 1928, he started Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie anew with Vol.1 in 1950, followed by Hans Kinzl and Herfried Hoinkes in 1970 and by Gernot Patzelt and Michael Kuhn from 1979 to 2001. Herausgeber Michael Kuhn Editor Schriftleitung Angelika Neuner & Mercedes Blaas Executive editors Wissenschaftlicher Beirat Editorial advisory board Jon Ove Hagen, Oslo Ole Humlum, Longyearbyen Peter Jansson, Stockholm Georg Kaser, Innsbruck Vladimir Kotlyakov, Moskva Heinz Miller, Bremerhaven Koni Steffen, Boulder ISSN 0044-2836 Figure on front page: “Vue prise de la Voute nommée le Chapeau, du Glacier des Bois, et des Aiguilles. du Charmoz.”; signed down in the middle “fait par Jn. Ante. Linck.”; coloured contour etching; 36.2 x 48.7 cm; Bibliothèque publique et universitaire de Genève, 37 M Nr. 1964/181; Photograph by H. J. -
Mont Blanc’ Author: Colin De La Rue
Icicle articles - ‘Mont Blanc’ Author: Colin de la Rue, http://www.eightup.co.uk At 4,810m/15,775ft Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in the Alps and in the European Union. Although claims have been made that its summit stands within Italian territory, French and Swiss maps locate it in France. I reached the summit early on 24 June 2010 after climbing via the Goûter route with Ervin Veluc, a professional guide, in the second of two weeks’ alpine training with Icicle Mountaineering in Chamonix. Ten other Icicle clients went for the summit on the same day, and all reached the top. The route we took starts at the Nid d’Aigle, at the head of the Mont Blanc tramway (2,372m). From there it makes its way up to the Tête Rousse hut at 3,167m, where Ervin and I had a bowl of soup for lunch, and shortly afterwards crosses the Grand Couloir, a gully a hundred metres or so in width which is notorious for rockfall. Guides encourage minimising the risk by a swift traverse, though the terrain is steep and a fixed safety rope installed some time ago is no longer within reach. As it happened, on the day I climbed the risk was lower than normal because temperatures had been uncommonly low for the time of year, the snowline was low and loose rock was held more firmly in place than usual. Nonetheless, Ervin was keen not to waste time in getting across. After crossing the couloir the route continues with a scramble over mixed rock and snow up the ridge to the Goûter hut, perched at the top of the ridge at 3,817m. -
Tramway Du Mont-Blanc
RENOUVELLEMENT DE CONCESSION LE DÉPARTEMENT PORTE UNE NOUVELLE AMBITION POUR LE MYTHIQUE TRAMWAY DU MONT-BLANC DOSSIER DE PRESSE 17 avril 2020 CONTACTS PRESSE Département de la Haute-Savoie : 06 89 19 46 62 / [email protected] SOMMAIRE Communiqué introductif 1/ Le Tramway du Mont-Blanc, une pépite propriété du Département de la Haute-Savoie 1.1. Le TMB, plus haut train à crémaillère de France 1.2. Histoire 1.3. Les investissements du Département pour le TMB 1.4. L’activité du Tramway du Mont-Blanc 2/ Le renouvellement de la concession : redynamiser l’expérience visiteur du TMB 2.1. Les ambitions du Département pour le TMB 2.2. Mode de gestion : une concession de service publique 2.3. La procédure de concession de service public 3/ Le projet touristique retenu 3.1 Les gares basses et intermédiaires 3.2 Le site sommital au Nid d’Aigle 3.3 L’augmentation des jours d’ouverture du TMB 3.4 Une nouvelle stratégie pour la saison hivernale 3.5 La politique tarifaire 3.6 Saint-Gervais territoire partenaire 4/ Les financements prévus 5/ Le calendrier La Compagnie du Mont-Blanc DOSSIER DE PRESSE / 17 avril 2020 TRAMWAY DU MONT-BLANC UNE NOUVELLE AMBITION POUR LE TRAMWAY DU MONT-BLANC Propriétaire du Tramway du Mont-Blanc, plus haut train à crémaillère de France, trans- portant les alpinistes au pied de la voie royale vers le mont Blanc, le Département de la Haute-Savoie a mené une importante réflexion sur l’avenir de cet équipement emblématique du territoire avec l’ambition de lui donner un nouveau souffle alors que sa fréquentation tend à stagner depuis plusieurs années. -
151 3Rd Issue 2009
ISSN 0019–1043 Ice News Bulletin of the International Glaciological Society Number 151 3rd Issue 2009 Contents 2 From the Editor 40 International Glaciological Society 3 Recent work 40 Journal of Glaciology 3 Italy 41 Annals of Glaciology, Volume 51(54) 3 Alpine glaciers 41 Annals of Glaciology, Volume 51(55) 14 Ice cores 42 Report from the Nordic Branch Meeting 16 Alpine inventories 43 Notes from the production team 17 Apennine glaciers 44 Meetings of other societies: 18 Tropical glaciers 44 Northwestern Glaciologists meeting 18 Himalaya–Karakoram glaciers 2009 20 Polar glaciers and ice sheets 47 Sapporo symposium 2nd circular 23 Glacier hydrology 52 Ohio symposium 2nd circular 24 The Miage Lake project 57 Future meetings of other societies: 25 Applied glaciology 11th International Circumpolar 28 Remote sensing Remote Sensing Symposium 30 Permafrost 57 Books received 33 Ice caves 58 News 33 Ecological studies 58 Obituary: Hans Röthlisberger 37 Snow and avalanches 60 Glaciological diary 66 New members Cover picture: River Skeiðará flowing along the terminus of the outlet glacier Skeiðarárjökull from southern Vatnajökull ice cap. The river changed course in July 2009. Until then the river flowed directly to the south from the outlet on the eastern side of the terminus and under the longest bridge in Iceland, the ~900 m long Skeiðará bridge. The river now flows to the west along the terminus and merges with the river Gígjukvísl near the centre of the glacier and the Skeiðará bridge is more or less on dry land. Photo: Oddur Sigurðsson. Scanning electron micrograph of the ice crystal used in headings by kind permission of William P. -
Mont Blanc in British Literary Culture 1786 – 1826
Mont Blanc in British Literary Culture 1786 – 1826 Carl Alexander McKeating Submitted in accordance with the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy University of Leeds School of English May 2020 The candidate confirms that the work submitted is his own and that appropriate credit has been given where reference has been made to the work of others. This copy has been supplied on the understanding that it is copyright material and that no quotation from the thesis may be published without proper acknowledgement. The right of Carl Alexander McKeating to be identified as Author of this work has been asserted by Carl Alexander McKeating in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. Acknowledgements I am grateful to Frank Parkinson, without whose scholarship in support of Yorkshire-born students I could not have undertaken this study. The Frank Parkinson Scholarship stipulates that parents of the scholar must also be Yorkshire-born. I cannot help thinking that what Parkinson had in mind was the type of social mobility embodied by the journey from my Bradford-born mother, Marie McKeating, who ‘passed the Eleven-Plus’ but was denied entry into a grammar school because she was ‘from a children’s home and likely a trouble- maker’, to her second child in whom she instilled a love of books, debate and analysis. The existence of this thesis is testament to both my mother’s and Frank Parkinson’s generosity and vision. Thank you to David Higgins and Jeremy Davies for their guidance and support. I give considerable thanks to Fiona Beckett and John Whale for their encouragement and expert interventions.