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4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
British Alpine Ski Traverse 1972 Peter Cliff 13
British Alpine Ski Traverse 1972 Peter Cliff In 1956 the Italian guide Waiter Bonatti traversed the Alps with three others on skis from the JuIian Alps to the French Riviera. This was followed in 1965 by Denis Bertholet and an international party of guides who started near Innsbruck and finished at Grenoble. In 1970 Robert Kittl with three other Austrians completed a very fast crossing in 40 days. The challenge for us was twofold: we were to be the first British party, and whereas the others had been predominantly professional guides we were all amateurs. The route we took was from Kaprun, s of Salzburg, to Gap, which is between Nice and Grenoble. The straight line distance was 400 miles (by comparison the straight line distance for the normal Haute Route between Argentiere and Zermatt is 40 miles), and we ascended at least 120,000 ft excluding uphill transport. It took 49 days including halts. The party was: Alan BIackshaw (leader), Michael de Pret Roose (deputy leader and route Klosters to Zermatt), Fl-Lt Dan Drew RAF (food), Peter Judson (equipment), Dr Hamish Nicol (medical), Lt-Col John Peacock REME (route Chamonix to Gap), Dick Sykes (finance) and myself (route Zermatt to Chamonix). On the first section to the Brenner pass we had with us Waiter Mann, who had been very much involved with the planning ofthe whole Austrian section. Support in the field was provided by Brig Gerry Finch and Major David Gore in a Range Rover. The other people who were closely involved were the members of the BBC TV team who filmed a good part of . -
Harvard Mountaineering 3
HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING 1931·1932 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASS. ~I I ' HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING 1931-1932 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASS . THE ASCENT OF MOUNT FAIRWEATHER by ALLEN CARPE We were returning from the expedition to Mount Logan in 1925. Homeward bound, our ship throbbed lazily across the Gulf of Alaska toward Cape Spencer. Between reefs of low fog we saw the frozen monolith of St. Elias, rising as it were sheer out of the water, its foothills and the plain of the Malaspina Glacier hidden behind the visible sphere of the sea. Clouds shrouded the heights of the Fairweather Range as we entered Icy Strait and touched at Port Althorp for a cargo of salmon; but I felt then the challenge of this peak which was now perhaps the outstanding un climbed mOUlitain in America, lower but steeper than St. Elias, and standing closer to tidewater than any other summit of comparable height in the world. Dr. William Sargent Ladd proved a kindred spirit, and in the early summer of 1926 We two, with Andrew Taylor, made an attempt on the mountain. Favored by exceptional weather, we reached a height of 9,000 feet but turned back Photo by Bradford Washburn when a great cleft intervened between the but tresses we had climbed and the northwest ridge Mount Fairweather from the Coast Range at 2000 feet of the peak. Our base was Lituya Bay, a beau (Arrows mark 5000 and 9000-foot camps) tiful harbor twenty miles below Cape Fair- s camp at the base of the south face of Mount Fair weather; we were able to land near the foot of the r weather, at 5,000 feet. -
512J the Alpine Journal 2019 Inside.Indd 422 27/09/2019 10:58 I N D E X 2 0 1 9 423
Index 2019 A Alouette II 221 Aari Dont col 268 Alpi Biellesi 167 Abram 28 Alpine Journal 199, 201, 202, 205, 235, 332, 333 Absi 61 Alps 138, 139, 141, 150, 154, 156, 163, 165, 179 Aconcagua 304, 307 Altamirano, Martín 305 Adams, Ansel 178 Ama Dablam 280, 282 Adam Smith, Janet 348 American Alpine Journal 298 Adda valley 170 American Civil War 173 Adhikari, Rabindra 286 Amery, Leo 192 Aemmer, Rudolph 242 Amin, Idi 371 Ahlqvist, Carina 279 Amirov, Rustem 278 Aichyn 65 Ancohuma 242 Aichyn North 65, 66 Anderson, Rab 257 Aiguille Croux 248 Andes 172 Aiguille d’Argentière 101 Androsace 222 Aiguille de Bionnassay 88, 96, 99, 102, 104, 106, Angeles, Eugenio 310 109, 150, 248 Angeles, Macario 310 Aiguille de l’M 148 Angel in the Stone (The) Aiguille des Ciseaux 183 review 350 Aiguille des Glaciers 224 Angsi glacier 60 Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 242 Anker, Conrad 280, 329 Aiguille du Blaitière 183 Annapurna 82, 279, 282, 284 Aiguille du Goûter 213 An Teallach 255 Aiguille du Midi 142, 146, 211, 242 Antoinette, Marie 197 Aiguille du Moine 146, 147 Anzasca valley 167 Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 211 Api 45 Aiguilles Blaitière-Fou 183 Ardang 62, 65 Aiguilles de la Tré la Tête 88 Argentère 104 Aiguilles de l’M 183 Argentière glacier 101, 141, 220 Aiguilles Grands Charmoz-Grépon 183 Argentière hut 104 Aiguilles Grises 242 Arjuna 272 Aiguille Verte 104 Arnold, Dani 250 Ailfroide 334 Arpette valley 104 Albenza 168 Arunachal Pradesh 45 Albert, Kurt 294 Ashcroft, Robin 410 Alborz 119 Askari Aviation 290 Alexander, Hugh 394 Asper, Claudi 222 Allan, Sandy 260, -
Climbing in the Ecrins
DUNCAN TUNSTALL Climbing in the Ecrins he quantity and quality of high-standard rock climbs now available in T all areas of the Alps is astounding. Many of the areas are well known Chamonix, the Bregaglia, the Sella Pass area of the Dolomites, Sanetsch and, of course, Handeg. All offer routes of high quality and perfect rock. There is only one problem with these areas and that is that they are too popular. Fortunately, for those of us who value solitude in the mountains, there are still regions inthe Alps that provide routes of equal standing to the above but, for reasons not entirely understood, do not attract the crowds. One of the best kept secrets in British climbing circles is that some of the finest rock climbing in the Alps is now to be found in the Ecrins massif where many ofthe climbs stand comparison with anything that Chamonix or the Bregaglia have to offer. The quality of the rock is more than ade quate on most routes, although the odd slightly suspect pitch may add a spice of adventure. This factor has given the range an unfair reputation for looseness which, when combined with a lack of telepheriques, has been effective in keeping the crowds away. A brief summary follows of the best of the granite climbing in the Ecrins massif. But first I feel I ought to say something about the use of bolts. This is a difficult subject and many words have already been expended on it. My own views are simple: the high mountains, like our own small cliffs, are no place for bolts. -
Inalto-2020.Pdf
In Alto Direttore responsabile Registrazione Tribunale di Udine serie V, Volume C, Alessandra Beltrame n. 266 del 3.12.1970 anno CXL – 2020 ISSN 1827-353X Redazione Società Alpina Friulana Claudio Mitri Distribuito gratuitamente Sezione di Udine ai soci della SAF del Club Alpino Italiano Progetto grafico ODV Raffaella De Reggi Copie e arretrati Via Brigata Re, 29 Società Alpina Friulana 33100 Udine [email protected] www.alpinafriulana.it Con il sostegno della Pagina 4: stemma allegorico della Società Alpina Friulana stampato sul fascicolo delle nozze d’argento di Giovanni Marinelli con Carolina Orlandi, febbraio 1895. Litografia Passero (archivio Umberto Sello) IN ALTO 100 IN ALTO Cronaca della Società Alpina Friulana SERIE V - VOLUME C ANNO CXL - 2020 SOMMARIO Editoriali Volgere lo sguardo alla bellezza Vincenzo Torti ........................................ 8 Cento volte Saf Enrico Brisighelli ............................................................. 10 Cultura alpina Alessandra Beltrame.......................................................... 13 Pensieri e studi Emersioni di lettura Silvia Metzeltin ........................................................ 16 La montagna come antidoto al virus Augusto Cosulich ........................... 21 Il mistero della pergamena Paolo Cavallanti ............................................ 37 Prime salite femminili al Montasio Daniela Durissini .............................. 45 Una misconosciuta ricchezza Sebastiano Parmegiani ............................... 55 L’Alta Via delle Alpi Giulie -
Berg – Erfahrungen
1 BERG – ERFAHRUNGEN Bergsport, ein kulturdynamisches Phänomen Diplomarbeit zur Erlangung des akademischen Grades einer Magistra der Philosophie/ an der Karl-Franzens-Universität Graz vorgelegt von Elfriede Maria Lackner am Institut für *..Volkskunde und Kulturanthropologie Begutachter(in)**Univ.Prof. Dr._in Johanna Rolshoven Graz, 2011 2 INHALTSVERZEICHNIS Seite 1. Vorbemerkungen 1.1. Berg - Erfahrungen 2010 1 1.2. Einleitung - Ausgangfragen – Theorien – Hypothesen 3 2. Raume - Orte – Strukturen 2.1. Begriffe und Verortungen 8 2.2. Die Darstellung des Phänomens in Zahlen 11 2.2.1. Die historische Gleichzeitigkeit 13 2.2.2. Entstehung und Transformation des Bildes Bergsport 15 2.3. Bergsport und Kulturtheorien 17 2.4. Exemplarische Darstellung der Feldforschung 20 2.5. Methodische Ansätze oder eine an das Feld angepasste Methode 21 2.5.1. Feldforschungsinhalte und Erkenntnisinteressen 23 2.5.2. Darstellung und Begründung des Forschungsdesigns 27 3. Wahrnehmung und Interpretation bergsportlichen Tuns 29 3.1. Forschungsregionen und Forschungsinhalte im Kontext 30 3.1.1. Bergwelten in Tirol : Der Wilde und der Zahme Kaiser 30 3.1.2. Bergwelt Nationalpark Gesäuse in der Steiermark - Die Hesshütte ………………..34 3.2. Exemplarische Darstellung und Analyse der Forschungsdaten Fallbeispiel 1: Tirol – Wilder und Zahmer Kaiser 38 3.2.1. Von den Quellen zur Analyse 40 3.2.2. Expertengespräche / Ergänzungen 53 3.3. Exemplarische Darstellung und Analyse der Forschungsdaten Fallbeispiel 2: Nationalpark Gesäuse – Die Hesshütte 57 3.3.1. Altersspezifische Sichtweisen des Bergsportes in der Postmoderne 76 3 4 Markierte und unmarkierte Wege 80 4.1.Forschungsfelder im historischen Kontext 81 4.2. Gipfelerlebnisse und Rituale 84 4.3. Ganzheitlichkeit – Genuss – Ruhe –Muße 86 5. -
Mer De Glace” (Mont Blanc Area, France) AD 1500–2050: an Interdisciplinary Approach Using New Historical Data and Neural Network Simulations
Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie Herausgegeben von MICHAEL KUHN BAND 40 (2005/2006) ISSN 0044-2836 UNIVERSITÄTSVERLAG WAGNER · INNSBRUCK 1907 wurde von Eduard Brückner in Wien der erste Band der Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas fertig gestellt. Mit dem 16. Band über- nahm 1928 Raimund von Klebelsberg in Innsbruck die Herausgabe der Zeitschrift, deren 28. Band 1942 erschien. Nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg gab Klebelsberg die neue Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie im Universitätsverlag Wagner in Innsbruck heraus. Der erste Band erschien 1950. 1970 übernahmen Herfried Hoinkes und Hans Kinzl die Herausgeberschaft, von 1979 bis 2001 Gernot Patzelt und Michael Kuhn. In 1907 this Journal was founded by Eduard Brückner as Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas. Raimund von Klebelsberg followed as editor in 1928, he started Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie anew with Vol.1 in 1950, followed by Hans Kinzl and Herfried Hoinkes in 1970 and by Gernot Patzelt and Michael Kuhn from 1979 to 2001. Herausgeber Michael Kuhn Editor Schriftleitung Angelika Neuner & Mercedes Blaas Executive editors Wissenschaftlicher Beirat Editorial advisory board Jon Ove Hagen, Oslo Ole Humlum, Longyearbyen Peter Jansson, Stockholm Georg Kaser, Innsbruck Vladimir Kotlyakov, Moskva Heinz Miller, Bremerhaven Koni Steffen, Boulder ISSN 0044-2836 Figure on front page: “Vue prise de la Voute nommée le Chapeau, du Glacier des Bois, et des Aiguilles. du Charmoz.”; signed down in the middle “fait par Jn. Ante. Linck.”; coloured contour etching; 36.2 x 48.7 cm; Bibliothèque publique et universitaire de Genève, 37 M Nr. 1964/181; Photograph by H. J. -
The Alps 2008
Area Notes 181. Simon Pierse, Ciarforon from Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II, 2006, watercolour, 42 x 59cm 245 Area Notes COMPILED AND EDITED BY PAUL KNOTT Alps 2008 Lindsay Griffin Greenland 2008 Derek Fordham Scottish Winter 2008-2009 Simon Richardson Morocco 2005-9 Mike Mortimer India 2008 Harish Kapadia Nepal 2008 Dick Isherwood Pakistan 2007 Lindsay Griffin and Dick Isherwood China and Tibet John Town New Zealand 2008-9 Kester Brown Cordillera Blanca Antonio Gómez Bohórquez Argentine Andes 2008 Marcelo Scanu 246 LINDSAY GRIFFIN The Alps 2008 This selection of ascents in 2008 could not have been written without the help of Jonathan Griffith, Andrej Grmovsek, Tomaz Jakofcic, Rolando Larcher, Tony Penning, Claude Rémy, Hilary Sharp, Luca Signorelli and Ueli Steck. tarting in late June, Diego Giovannini and Franco ‘Franz’ Nicolini took S60 days to complete the first non-mechanised link-up of all 82 Alpine 4000m summits that appear on the UIAA’s official list. The pair opted to track from west to east, ending with Piz Bernina. Until the early 1990s there was no definitive list; some opting for as low as 52 (the number of completely separate mountains), others adding more, with alpine specialist Richard Goedecke listing a staggering 150 individual tops and bumps. At the end of 1993, in an attempt to put an end to the debate, a joint UIAA and Italian Alpine Club committee came up with an ‘official’ list of 82, which they hoped would be used as the benchmark for future attempts. This list came too late for Simon Jenkins and Martin Moran, who in the same year made the first non-mechanised traverse of 74 summits from the Piz Bernina to the Barre des Ecrins. -
Peaks & Glaciers 2019
JOHN MITCHELL FINE PAINTINGS EST 1931 3 Burger Calame Castan Compton 16, 29 14 6 10, 12, 23, 44, 46, 51 Contencin Crauwels Gay-Couttet Français 17, 18, 20, 22, 28, 46, 50 32 33 39 Gyger Hart-Dyke Loppé Mähly 17, 49, 51 26, 27 30, 34, 40, 43, 52 38 All paintings, drawings and photographs are for sale unless otherwise stated and are available for viewing from Monday to Friday by prior appointment at: John Mitchell Fine Paintings 17 Avery Row Brook Street Mazel Millner Roffiaen Rummelspacher London W1K 4BF 15 45 24 11 Catalogue compiled by William Mitchell Please contact William Mitchell on 020 7493 7567 [email protected] www.johnmitchell.net Schrader Steffan Tairraz Yoshida 9 48 8, 11, 19 47 4 This catalogue has been compiled to accompany our annual selling exhibition of paintings, Club’s annual exhibitions from the late 1860s onwards, there was an active promotion and 5 drawings and vintage photographs of the Alps from the early 1840s to the present day. It is the veneration of the Alps through all mediums of art, as artists tried to conjure up visions of snow firm’s eighteenth winter of Peaks & Glaciers , and, as the leading specialist in Alpine pictures, I am and ice – in Loppé’s words ‘a reality that was more beautiful than in our wildest dreams.’ With an proud to have handled some wonderful examples since our inaugural exhibition in 2001. In keeping increasingly interested audience, it is no surprise that by the end of the nineteenth century, the with every exhibition, the quality, topographical accuracy and diversity of subject matter remain demand for Alpine imagery far outstripped the supply. -
GENNAIO 2011.Pmd
Parliamo di noi ... di Aldo Terreni (Presidente della Sezione di Firenze) Carissimi, con la fine del 2010, dopo 86 anni, si è conclusa la nostra collaborazione col Rifugio Firenze, e speriamo che perlomeno il nome rimanga invariato! In questi ultimi tempi ho parlato spesso con Resi Perathoner, la simpatia, l’attaccamento che dimostra verso la nostra Sezione, l’affetto per i tanti fiorentini che in questi 70 anni hanno collaborato con la sua famiglia per far si che una casupola diventasse il bellissimo rifugio attuale, rendono ancora più struggente il dispiacere per questa perdita. Non poter contare più sulla rendita del Rifugio, ci costringe anche ad una severa politica di tagli, anche il nostro “Bollettino” dovrà essere ridimensionato, in particolare con il II° numero che sarà pubblicato on line, ma di questo vi parleranno gli addetti ai lavori molto più competenti di me. Anche la Segreteria dovrà essere affidata sempre più al volontariato, e devo dire che già da ora buona parte del CD è molto presente e si sta accollando parte del lavoro, ritengo obbligatorio un grazie particolare a Gianfranco Romei che pur non giovanissimo!! è per tutti noi un esempio di puntualità ed impegno. Il “parliamo di noi” e nato per far conoscere ai Soci meno presenti nelle attività sezionali quanto è stato fatto dalla Sezione di Firenze, e sotto questo profilo il 2010 è stato un anno formidabile, anche perché si sono concentrati tre anniversari in cifra tonda: 100 anni per lo SciCAI e il “Bollettino” e 40 per “La Martinella”. Per tutte queste attività sono state fatte manifestazioni ed [email protected] incontri con grande successo, permettetemi un cenno particolare alla mostra fotografica dello SciCAI, che oltre alle rassegne fiorentine Quadrimestrale della Sezione di Firenze del Parterre e del Palagio di Parte Guelfa, è stata ospitata nel periodo del Club Alpino Italiano Via del Mezzetta, 2M - 50135 FIRENZE natalizio nella Sala Consiliare dell‘Abetone e, successivamente a tel.: 055 6120467 - fax: 055 6123126 Vidiciatico nell’oratorio di S.Rocco .