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Behind the Scenes

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erously kept things running smoothly at home OUR READERS during my frequent absences. Thanks also to Many thanks to the travellers who used the my family for their support and to the LP team, last edition and wrote to us with helpful particularly Mark Elliott for a great previous hints, useful advice and interesting an- edition to work with. ecdotes: Fabio Baldi, Laura Cavatorta, Paul Finn, John Hodges, Mikael Kirkensgaard, David Donna Wheeler MacBryde, Koulla Moore, Charlotte Stevens, Deb Williams and Julie Woods. Many thanks to the ever-fabulous Antwerpers who made my stay a delight, including Nele, Dries and Nadine and the very generous and AUTHOR THANKS knowledgable Philippe d’Hoore. In Mechelin, thanks to Tim and Linda for the great tips, to Helena Smith Leuven’s Bar Stan boys for such sweetness Continued thanks to Anne Ponslet, Kristof and to Karien in . Much gratitude, too, to Buntinx and the USE-It gang. Also to Karel for Daniel Nettheim for your wonderful company, the hospitality, and Alex for his company at Darryn Devlin for your soothing voice from Ypres and for helping me find the Matonge afar and Joe Guario for the constant love and party. support. Andy Symington As always, I owe many thanks to helpful people ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS across and Luxembourg, particularly Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, in tourist offices. Specific thanks for various Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated favours go to Nathalie Van Waeyenberge, Jean World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Dubois and Sandrine Rousseau. Reinhard Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sahre uncomplainingly drove a very long way Sciences, 11, 163344. for a beer in Liège and Eduardo Cuadrado Cover photograph: Sunset over the Belfry, Diago and José Eliseo Vázquez Rodríguez gen- Bruges; Alyaksandr Stzhalkouski/Alamy © 314

Wheeler. The previous edition Product Editors Kate THIS BOOK was written by Mark Elliott and Mathews, Kathryn Rowan This 6th edition of Lonely Plan- Helena Smith. This guidebook Senior Cartographer et’s Belgium & Luxembourg was produced by the following: David Kemp

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND guidebook was researched Destination Editor Book Designer Wendy Wright and written by Helena Smith, Kate Morgan Assisting Editors Sarah Andy Symington and Donna Bailey, Pete Cruttenden, Carly ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 315

Index

A art 10, 286-8, 10 Brouwerij De Halve travel to/from 79-80 abbeys & art nouveau 14, 290, 14 Maan 91 travel within 80-1 Abbaye d’Echternach 258 148 Brouwerij Het Anker 170 budget 17 Abbaye Notre Dame 218 Brussels 54 Cantillon Brewery 59-60 bus travel 298-9, 300 accommodation 292-3. see Aubechies 189 De Koninck 152 business hours 296-7 also individual locations Aulne 199 Herberg-brouwerij Nieuwhuys 179 language 304, 307 Autoworld 54 La Chouffe 222 C activities 294-5 see also canal tours individual activities Old Hoegaarden Bruges 96 Adinkerke 115 B Brewery 179 Baarle-Hertog 165 Bruxelles-Charleroi 196 Adoration of the Mystic Stella Artois 174 ballet 288 Ghent 133 Lamb 133, 286, 287, 10 Westmalle & Café Mechelen 171 air travel 298, 299 Bastogne 239-41 Trappisten 164 car travel 299, 300-1 airports 198, 298 Bastogne War Museum Bruges 9, 31, 85-106, 86, 239-40, , , , Carnaval de Binche 10, 22, Alsemberg 82 14 90 92-3 8-9 13 Battle of the Bulge 240 accommodation 83, 96-8 192, 10 Antwerp 14, 31, 144-63, Battle of the Golden Spurs 12, 20, 103 146-7, 150-1, 154, 14 activities 96 126 Château de Bouillon 215 accommodation 142, drinking 101-2 153-6 Battle of Waterloo 195, 273 entertainment 102-3 Château de Bourscheid 260 drinking 158-60 Beaufort 259-60 food 83, 98-101 Château de Chimay 202 entertainment 160-1 beer 13, 170, 202, 283-5, 13, highlights 84 see also breweries Château de Larochette festivals 153 nightlife 101-2 festivals 283 257 food 142, 156-8 shopping 103-4 Beersel 82 Château de Vianden 261-2 gay travellers 161 sights 85, 87-9, 91, 94-6 begijnhoven 21, 166 Château de Wiltz 264 highlights 143 tours 96 Bruges 91 Château Féodal 219 lesbian travellers 161 travel to/from 105 Diest 177 Gravensteen 132, 12 nightlife 158-60 travel within 105 Lier 167 Kasteel van Beersel 82 shopping 161-2 walks 90 Mechelen 170 Kasteel van Gaasbeek 82 sights 145-52 Bruges Matins 89 Turnhout 165 Laarne 140 tours 152-3 Brugse Vrije 88 Belfort 87, Ooidonk 140 travel to/from 163 13 Brussels 31, 34-82, 36-7, belfries 21 Royal Palace 245 travel within 163 40-1, 46-7, 50-1, 55, Ghent 132 Cathédrale Notre Dame 183 Antwerp Port 163-4 60, 5, 9 Mons 191 cathedrals, see churches & Antwerp Zoo 149 accommodation 34, 61-4 Tournai 183 cathedrals Antwerpen-Centraal 149 activities 60-1 Belœil 189-90 caves 15, 21 architecture 12, 62, 289-90 drinking 69-73 Belgian royalty 277 entertainment 73-6 Grotte de Lorette 212 Ardennes 32, 203-41, 204 bicycle travel, see cycling Grottes de Han 212, 15 accommodation 203 food 34, 64-9 boat travel 299 Grottes de Hotton 220 food 203 gay travellers 68 Bock Casemates 244-5 highlights 36-7 Grottes du Remouchamps highlights 204 239 Botte du Hainaut 200 itinerary 38 area codes 17, 297 cell phones 16 Bouillon 215-17 lesbian travellers 68 Arlon 241 Charleroi 198 Bourglinster 256-7 nightlife 69-73 Chemin de la Corniche 244 Brel, Jacques 73 shopping 76 children, travel with 29-30 breweries sights 35, 38-9, 42-5, Map Pages 000 Chimay 202 Brasserie à Vapeur 189 48-9, 52-4, 57-60 Photo Pages 000 Brasserie Dubuisson 189 tours 60-1 chocolate 11, 281-2, 11 316 Chocolate Line 103, 282, 2 cycling 294, 300, 19 Le Doudou 23, 191 Musée Constantin churches & cathedrals Bruges 96 Luxembourg Jazz & Meunier 57 Basilique des Saints- La Roche-en-Ardenne Blues Rallye 24, 253 Musée David et Alice van Pierre-et-Paul 214 219 Nocturne des Coteaux Buuren 58 Cathédrale des Sts- Vresse-sur-Semois 217 25, 227 Musée de la Michel & Gudule 44-5 Sprinprozession 23, 258 Photographie 198

INDEX INDEX Cathédrale Notre Dame Tomorrowland 153 Musée de la Vie Wallonne (Tournai) 183 D Waterloo Battle 225-6 Cathédrale Notre-Dame Damme 105-6 Re-­enactments 23 Musée des Arts Anciens (Luxembourg City) dance 288 film 266, 288 du Namurois 207 C- 245 De Haan 107-8 Musée des Beaux-Arts 

G Fields 13, 119, 13  Collégiale Ste-Gertrude De Panne 115 183, 186 food 280-2, 295 196 De Ultieme Hallucinatie 56 Musée des Beaux-Arts language 304-5, 307-8 Collégiale Ste-Waudru Diekirch 260-1 de Liège 226 frites 281 191 Diest 177-8 Musée des Sciences Naturelles 53 Église Collégiale St- Diksmuide 117 Barthélemy 226 Musée d’Histoire de la Dinant 211-12 G Église Notre-Dame 211 Ville de Luxembourg disability, travellers with 297 Gaasbeek 82 Église Notre-Dame du 245 Domaine Royal 58 galleries & museums Sablon 49 Musée du drinks, see beer, wine Abbaye de Stavelot 237 Église St-Loup 207 Cinquantenaire 54 Durbuy 220-2 Archéoforum 226 Église St-Nicolas 44 Musée du Costume et de Arentshuis 89 la Dentelle 42 Église Ste-Catherine 44 Atomium 58-9 Musée Hergé 197 Heilig-Bloedbasiliek 88 E Autoworld 54 Musée Horta 57 Jeruzalemkerk 95 Eastern Cantons 234-7 Bastogne War Museum Musée Littéraire Victor Eastern Flanders 31, 142- National Basilica 59 239-40, 14 Hugo 262 81, 143 Onze-Lieve-­ Begijnhof Museum 165 Musée Magritte 48 Vrouwekathedraal 145 accommodation 142 Centre Belge de la Bande Musée National food 142 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk Dessinée 45 d’Histoire Militaire 89 highlights 143 Centre Touristique de la 260-1 St-Baafskathedraal 132 Echternach 257-9 Laine et de la Mode Musée Royal de l’Armée St-Carolus-­ economy 267 233 et d’Histoire Borromeuskerk 147-8 Église Notre-Dame du Château de Wiltz 264 Militaire 54 St-Pieterskerk 173 Sablon 49 Choco-Story 95 Musées St-Romboutskathedraal Église St-Loup 207 Diamantmuseum 91 d’Extrême-­Orient 58 168 Eisch Valley 263 Erasmus House Museum Musées Royaux des St-Salvatorskathedraal electricity 295 59 Beaux-Arts 48 91, 2 emergencies 17 Espace Chimay 202 Museum Plantin-­Moretus Westmalle Abbey & Café 145 language 305, 308-9 Fondation Jacques Brel Trappisten 164 Museum Enghien 190 42-3 Circuit Spa-Francorchamps Frietmuseum 95 St-­Janshospitaal 89, 91 232 Esch-sur-Sûre 263 Grand Curtius 226 Museum voor Volk- Citadelle de Namur 205 Espace Chimay 202 skunde 95-6 Grès de la Roche 219 Clervaux 264 Ettelbrück 260 Red Star Line Museum Groeningemuseum 88-9 climate 16, 294 events, see festivals & 149 events Hill 62 Museum 124 comic strips 289 Rockoxhuis 146-7 exchange rates 17 Historium 87 murals 49 Rubenshuis 146 Huis de Lalaing 127-8 museums 45, 197 Schepenhuis 168 Huis van Alijn 132 shops 76, 104 Silex’s 192 F In Flanders Fields 119 Comines 124-5 fashion 162 Speelgoedmuseum 170 Jewish Museum 52 Coo 238-9 festivals & events 22-5 Stedelijk Museum 167 KMSKA 151 Coudenberg 45, 48 beer festivals 283 Suikermuseum 178 MAS (Museum aan de Belgian Gay & Lesbian Underpant Museum 42 Couvin 201-2 Stroom) 149, 151 Pride 68 gay travellers 295 Crupet 210-11 Memorial 1815 194 culture 266-7, 278-9 Carnaval de Binche 10, Gaye, Marvin 112 22, 192, 10 Memorial Museum currency 16 Pas­schendaele 1917 Geraardsbergen 128-9 Festival Outremeuse customs regulations 295 124 Ghent 15, 129-41, 130-1, 24, 227 Mons Memorial Museum 134, 15 Gentse Feesten 136 190-1 accommodation 136-7 Heritage Days 25 Map Pages 000 Mudam 248 drinking 138-9 Laetare 22, 237 Photo Pages 000 Musée BELvue 45 entertainment 139-41 317 festivals 136 J entertainment 253-4 Parfumerie Guy Delforge food 137-8 Jehay 223 food 250-2 205 nightlife 138-9 nightlife 252-3 parks & gardens shopping 141 sights 244-5, 248-9 Bois de la Cambre 58 sights 129, 131-6 K tours 249 Forêt de Soignes 81 Katholieke Universiteit van Hof Arents 89 travel to/from 141 Leuven 176 travel to/from 254 Nationale Plantentuin INDEX travel within 141 kayaking 219 travel within 254-5 Van België 82 Ghent Altarpiece 133, 286, Bouillon 215-16 walking tours 249 287, Parc de Sept Heures 232 10 Coo 238 Luxembourg royalty 244 -glassware 231 Parc Léopold 53  G Durbuy 221 Godefroid 216 Place du Petit Sablon  S Echternach 258 49-50 godshuizen 166 M La Roche-en-Ardenne Maison du Roi 38 Patershol 132 golf 294 219 Manneken Pis 39 Petite Somme 222 Grand Curtius 226 Vresse-sur-Semois 217 Mariembourg 200-1 Philippeville 200 Grand Place (Brussels) 9, KMSKA 151 MAS 149, 151 Pipaix 188-9 38, 5, 9 Knokke-Heist 107 measures 296 planning Grand Place (Tournai) 183 Kortrijk 125-7 Mechelen 168-73, 169 basics 16-17 Gravensteen 132, 12 Memorial 1815 194 Grevenmacher 256 budget 17 mobile phones 16 Grimbergen 82 L children, travel with La Roche-en-Ardenne Modave 223 29-30 Groeningemuseum 88-9 218-20 money 16, 17, 295, 296 internet resources 17 Groeningheveld 126 L’Arbre d’Or 39 Mons 190-4 itineraries 26-8 Grottes de Han 212, 15 languages 16, 74, 278, Mons Memorial Museum regions 31-2 303-12 190-1 travel season 16 H Bruxellois 76 Mosan art 208 politics 266-7 Halles St-Géry 44 Dutch 303-6 Moselle Valley 255-6 Poperinge 118-19 Han-sur-Lesse 212 French 307-10 motorcycle travel 299, population 267 Hasselt 178 Letzeburgesch 251 300-1 Porte de Hal 52-3 health 295-6 Larochette 257 mountain biking 219, 221 public holidays 297 Heilig-Bloedbasiliek 88 Lavaux-Sainte-Anne 214 MSK 135 Hergé 197, 289 L’Eau de Heure 200 Mudam 248 Het Zwin 107 Le Doudou 23, 191 Müllerthal 256-60 Q Quint, Charles 270-1 hiking 294 Léopold II 274-5 Musée Hergé 197 Ardennes 219 lesbian travellers 295 museums, see galleries & Hautes Fagnes 235-6 Lessines 190 museums R Müllerthal 258 Leuven 173-7, 175 music 288-9 Ragnies 199-200 history 20, 268-77 Liège 223-31, 224-5 Ramparts 119-20 hitching 301 accommodation 227-8 N Redu 214 Hoegaarden 179 drinking 229-30 Namur 205-10, 206 religion 267, 279 Hoet, Jan 288 entertainment 230 Nationale Plantentuin Van Remerschen 255-6 holidays 297 festivals & events 227 België 82 Remich 256 164 food 228-9 news 296 Rochefort 212-14 Horta, Victor 57, 62 nightlife 229-30 Nieuwpoort 114 Rochehaut 217 Hôtel de Ville 38 shopping 230 Nismes 201 Rockoxhuis 146-7 Hôtel Van Eetvelde 56 sights 225-7 Nivelles 196-7 royalty 244, 277 Hotton 220 Lier 166-8 Rubenshuis 146 Hougoumont 194 Lissewege 108 Rubens, Pieter Paul 144, O 287 Hugo, Victor 262 literature 266 Old England Building 48 Rue des Bouchers 43-4 Huy 222-3 Louvain-la-Neuve 197 Oostduinkerke 114-15 Rue du Lac 6 57, 14 Luxembourg 32, 242-64, opening hours 296-7 243 I Orval 218 accommodation 242 In Bruges 95 Ostend 108-14, 110 S food 242 insurance 296 Oudenaarde 127-8 Schengen 255-6 highlights 243 internet access 296 Simenon, Georges 227 Luxembourg City 10, 244- internet resources 17 Sint-Truiden 180 55, 246-7, 11 P skiing 235, 295 itineraries 26-8 Palais de Justice 52 accommodation 249-50 Smurfs, the 289 Bruges 90, 90 Palais Royal 45 drinking 252-3 Spa 231-3 Brussels 38 318 sport 279 travel to/from Belgium & W Wiels 58 Stadhuis (Bruges) 88 Luxembourg 298-9 waffles 282 Wiltz 264 Stadhuis (Leuven) 173 travel within Belgium & walking see also hiking wine 282 Luxembourg 299-302 Stavelot 237-8 Bruges 90 wineries 255 Turnhout 164-6 St-Gilles Town Hall 56 Hautes Fagnes 236 Caves à Crémant Tuymans, Luc 287 St-Hubert 214-15 Luxembourg City 249 Poll-Fabaire 256

INDEX INDEX Tyne Cot 124 St-Idesbald 115 Namur 205 Caves Bernard-Massard 256 St-Pietersabdij 134 war 20-1 Caves du Sud 255 St-Romboutskathedraal U Waterloo 194-6

T- Caves St-Martin 256  168 Universiteitsbibliotheek Waterloo Battle Re-enact- Z St-Salvatorskathedraal 173-4 ments 23 Woesten 117  91, 2 US Military Cemetery 249 Watou 117 Wormeldange 256 Suikermuseum 178 weather 294 WWI 14, 122, 125, 275 WWII 275-6 V weights 296 T vacations 297 Western Flanders 31, 83- Tchantchès 230 Van Damme, Jean-Claude 141, 84 Y telephone services 16, 297 288 accommodation 83 Ypres (Ieper) 119-23, 120 Thuin 199 van Dyck, Anthony 287 food 83 Ypres Salient 122, 123-4, Tienen 178-9 van Eyck, Jan 133, 286, 10 highlights 84 123 time 297 Van Herwegen, Henri 288 Western Wallonia 32, 182- Tintin 49, 76, 197, 289 vegetarian travellers 281 202, 184-5 accommodation 182 Z tipping 19 Verviers 233-4 Zeebrugge 108 food 182 Tongeren 180-1 Veurne 115-16 zoos highlights 184 tourist information 297 Vianden 261-3 Antwerp Zoo 149 Westmalle 164 Tournai 183, 186-8, 187 Villers-la-Ville 197-8 Parc à Gibier 219 Westvleteren 117 train travel 299, 302 visas 16, 297 Zoutleeuw 179-80

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 319

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary /Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Helena Smith Brussels, Bruges & Western Flanders Helena fell for Brussels on a drunken/ architecture weekend with a great friend; she goes back for the live music, the chocolate and the vampires. A travel writer and photographer, Helena blogs about food and community at eathackney.com.

Andy Symington Western Wallonia, The Ardennes, Luxembourg Andy first visited Belgium and Luxembourg as a backpacking youngster and was immediately impressed by this under-the-radar destination’s historic towns and marvellous beer. Having returned several times over the years, he relished this opportunity to get to know the south in more depth and was blown away by the springtime beauty of the Ardennes’ rivers. Based in Spain, Andy is an experienced travel writer who has authored and co-authored numerous Lonely Planet and other guidebooks. Andy also wrote Need to Know, First Time, Itineraries, History, Belgian People and the Survival Guide. Read more about Andy at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/andy_symington

Donna Wheeler Antwerp & Eastern Flanders Fuelled by a love of Flemish painting and the Ant- werp Six, Donna had a crush on Belgium long before first venturing there over a decade ago. Since then, the country’s quiet culturedness and relaxed charm has made it one of her favourite destinations. Her writing on art, architecture, history and food appears on LP.com, BBC.com Travel, National Geographic Traveler and My Art Guides, she’s authored guidebooks to Italy, France, Tunisia, Algeria and Norway and is the creative director of travel magazine She Came to Stay. Donna also wrote Wel- come to, Top 15, If You Like, Month by Month, Travel with Children, Belgium & Luxembourg Today, Creative Cuisine, Belgian Beer, and Art & Architecture. Read more about Donna at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/donnawheeler

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