©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Belgium & Luxembourg

Bruges, & & Northwest Northeast Belgium p83 p142 #_ p34

Wallonia p183

Luxembourg p243 #_

Mark Elliott, Catherine Le Nevez, Helena Smith, Regis St Louis, Benedict Walker PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to BRUSSELS ...... 34 ANTWERP Belgium & Luxembourg. . . 4 Sights...... 38 & NORTHEAST Belgium & Luxembourg Tours...... 60 BELGIUM...... 142 Map...... 6 Sleeping...... 62 Antwerp (Antwerpen) ...... 144 Belgium & Luxembourg’s Eating...... 65 Top 15...... 8 Around Antwerp. . . . . 164 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 71 Westmalle...... 164 Need to Know...... 16 Entertainment ...... 76 Turnhout ...... 165 First Time Shopping...... 78 Lier...... 167 Belgium & Luxembourg. . .. 18 Information...... 80 Mechelen...... 168 If You Like...... 20 Getting There & Away. . . . 81 ...... 174 Getting Around...... 81 Month by Month. . . . . 22 ...... 179 Itineraries ...... 26 Diest...... 179 , GHENT ...... 179 Travel with Children. . . . 29 & NORTHWEST Haspengouw...... 180 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 31 BELGIUM...... 83 Tienen ...... 180 Bruges...... 85 Zoutleeuw...... 180 ...... 103

ALEKSEI VELIZHANIN /SHUTTERSTOCK © Sint-Truiden...... 180 Belgian Coast...... 103 Tongeren...... 181 Knokke-Heist ...... 103 De Haan...... 105 ...... 106 WALLONIA...... 183 Zeebrugge & Western Wallonia. . . . 186 Lissewege ...... 106 Tournai...... 186 (Oostende) . . . . 106 Pipaix...... 190 Nieuwpoort...... 111 Aubechies...... 190 Oostduinkerke ...... 111 Ath ...... 190 ...... 112 Lessines...... 191 GALERIES ST-HUBERT, Beer Country...... 113 Enghien ...... 191 BRUSSELS P38 ...... 113 Mons...... 191 ...... 114 Binche ...... 195

MISTERVLAD /HUTTERSTOCK © ...... 114 Nivelles...... 196 (Ieper)...... 116 Waterloo ...... 120 Battlefield...... 197 ...... 123 Louvain-la-Neuve. . . . . 199 Oudenaarde...... 125 Charleroi...... 199 Geraardsbergen...... 127 Thuin ...... 201 Ghent...... 128 Aulne ...... 201

BRABO FOUNTAIN, ANTWERP P145 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Belgium & Luxembourg Today. . . . 266 PIGPROX/SHUTTERSTOCK © History...... 268 The Belgian People . . . 278 Creative Cuisine. . . . . 280 Belgian Beer...... 283 Arts & Architecture. . . 286

CHÂTEAU DE VIANDEN, VIANDEN P261 SURVIVAL Botte de Hainaut. . . . . 202 Verviers...... 233 GUIDE Philippeville...... 202 Spa...... 235 Mariembourg & Coo...... 237 Directory A-Z...... 292 Nismes...... 202 Stavelot...... 238 Transport...... 298 Chimay...... 203 The Eastern Cantons. . .. 240 The Ardennes ...... 204 Language...... 303 Namur ...... 204 LUXEMBOURG . . . . 243 Index...... 315 Crupet ...... 211 Luxembourg City. . . . 245 Map Legend...... 319 Dinant...... 211 Moselle Valley...... 255 Han-sur-Lesse...... 213 Schengen & Rochefort...... 214 Remerschen ...... 255 St-Hubert...... 216 Müllerthal Region. . . . 257 Bouillon...... 216 Larochette...... 257 Orval...... 220 Echternach ...... 257 Arlon...... 220 Beaufort...... 259 Bastogne...... 220 Éislek...... 260 Achouffe ...... 222 Bourscheid ...... 260 La Roche- Diekirch...... 260 en-Ardenne...... 222 Vianden...... 261 SPECIAL Durbuy...... 223 Esch-sur-Sûre...... 263 FEATURES Huy...... 224 Wiltz...... 264 First Time Liège...... 224 Clervaux...... 264 Belgium & Luxembourg. . 18 The Belgian People . . . 278 Creative Cuisine. . . . . 280 Belgian Beer...... 283 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26

Itineraries

N O R T H NETHERLANDS S E A

Antwerp •# •#

É Bruges É •# Lier

É •# É Veurne •# •# Ghent Mechelen

É É •# Westvleteren Leuven •# •# #_ BELGIUM Ypres É BRUSSELS É

•# Waterloo

Tournai •# É É

Mons •#

2 WEEKS Belgium’s Greatest Hits

Taking in nearly a dozen of Belgium’s top destinations in two weeks is likely to be an exhausting but unforgettable experience. You will of course admire the Grand Place in Brussels, explore gloriously multifac- eted Ghent and visit idyllic, ever-popular Bruges. Then add a day in Ypres with its magnificent cloth hall and moving WWI history; if you’re driving, get there by swinging through lovable Veurne and beer-grail Westvleteren en route. Tournai is well worth a brief stop to admire its magnificent Romanesque cathedral, then head to historic Mons with its excellent portfolio of museums. Looping back to- wards Brussels, the Waterloo battle site is a major draw, if slightly fiddly to reach by public transport. Or going northeast to Leuven – brew-home of Stella Artois and Leffe – with its splendid town hall and mind-blowing square full of student bars. Before giving in to the irresistible pull of amazing Antwerp, do stop in underrated Mechelen, Belgium’s spiritual heart. And don’t miss lovely Lier, a gem of a town with a loop of canal, an extensive central square, a plethora of old houses, a Unesco-listed begijnhof and a remarkable astronomical clock speckled with planets and dials. 27

NETHERLANDS Brussels Airport•#

•# Zoutleeuw

É Sint-Truiden #_ •# É Val-Dieu Leuven •# •# GERMANY BRUSSELS •# Blegny Tienen Tongeren •# Limbourg

•# É Eupen •# •#

Waterloo •# TRIP YOUR PLAN Liège •# •#

Verviers É É

É É Haute Fagnes •# •# Charleroi Airport BELGIUM Malmedy Mons •# É Stavelot •# •# •# •# Coo •# Aulne Baugnez Thuin É Freÿr •# ÉÉ É •# Rochefort La-Roche-en-Ardenne FRANCE •# It

•# Fourneau i nerar •# Mariembourg

•# Han-sur- •# St-Michel •# Lesse É Nismes •# Bastogne

Chimay É i es

Vresse-sur-Semois•# É •# Rochehaut •# LUXEMBOURG •# Tombeau du Géant Bouillon

2 WEEKS Dawdling on the Back Roads

This driving trip takes in some of Belgium’s more off-beat cities and its most charming rural corners. Starting from the airport in either Brussels or Charleroi, pick up a rental car and drive via ’s Waterloo to museum-rich Mons, which was Europe’s cul- tural capital back in 2015. Continue via Aulne abbey ruins and the ‘hanging gardens’ of Thuin to spend two nights in or around the pretty little town of Chimay, famed for its beer. Tootle on along the pretty lanes to Mariembourg and very attractive Nis- mes, possibly taking the steam train. Visit the splendid gardens of Freÿr and the fabu- lous caves at Han-sur-Lesse or less commercial versions at Rochefort, which is home to another Trappist brewery and some fine local accommodation. From Rochefort drive down to Bouillon with its looming Crusader castle ruin, and kayak along some of Bel- gium’s loveliest wooded valleys around Vresse-sur-Semois. Follow the Semois Valley in both directions enjoying the panoramas at Rochehaut and Tombeau du Géant. Head northeast to visit the excellent war museum at Bastogne, then cut across through thick forests via St-Hubert and the impressive open-air museum of Fourneau St-Michel to La Roche-en-Ardenne, with its castle ghost and sad but fascinating WWII history. Famed for its long-nosed carnival characters, attractive Stavelot makes a good base for outdoor activities organised at nearby Coo. Or sleep in cathedral-town Malmedy and visit the WWII museum at Baugnez before making a day-hike on the Hautes Fagnes. Stop for coffee and pastries in Eupen, Belgium’s only really Germanic city, or for a beer in delightful little Limbourg en route to underrated Verviers, a once-grand city with an excellent new chocolate museum. Lovely country lanes lead on to beautiful Val-Dieu monastery and nearby Blegny, where you can descend into Bel- gium’s last accessible coal mine. After a dose of boistrous, big-city action in sprawling Liège comes quieter, appealing Tongeren, Belgium’s ‘oldest’ town and then the Roman road to attractive Sint-Truiden. Wander the pretty Haspengouw lanes and peruse the remarkable church in Zoutleeuw plus more Roman remnants in Tienen before spend- ing your last night in the lively student city of Leuven. 28

To Belgium Clervaux•# D

N O R T H

É S E A É NETHERLANDS •#Vianden

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É

•# É Diekirch

Bourscheid •#

Y É É Echternach

Mechelen N LUXEMBOURG •# •# A

É M

•# Westvleteren R Larochette •# Hoegaarden E £# #_ G •# É É •# BRUSSELS •# •# Val-Dieu Pipaix

It É BELGIUM É

i nerar É É

É Mariembourg •# •# Chimay É Moselle •#Achouffe

i es #_ wine country •# LUXEMBOURG É •# LUXEMBOURG CITY É GERMANY FRANCE Orval

FRANCE

Lovable 5 7 Belgian Beer Tour DAYS Luxembourg DAYS Little Luxembourg makes an unexpectedly You could claim cultural motivations for complete destination. Accommodation pric- touring Belgium’s monasteries and historic es in Luxembourg City fall dramatically at towns, pretending that you’re only tasting weekends, while midweek is better for the the local brews out of politeness along the rural castle villages, with smaller crowds way. But do sign up a patient designated and less traffic on the country lanes. driver – some of these magnificent monster- Arrive in Luxembourg City on Friday brews tip the scales at 10% or more. afternoon to make the most of the city’s Start in Brussels by paying respects at nightlife, particularly at Rives de Clausen L’Arbre d’Or, the brewers’ guild building on within a former brewery. Buy a Luxembourg the Grand Place. Learn about lambics at Card on Saturday if you’re planning to see Cantillon brewery, then let beer teach you all of the main museums, or just stroll the local history at Het Anker in Mechelen. city ramparts and gorges. On Monday strike While exploring the hop-growing re- out for Echternach, either via Larochette gion of western , the ultimate or through the Moselle wine country. beer pilgrimage is to Sint-Sixtus Abbey at Hike in the Müllerthal micro-canyons then Westvleteren, home to the rarest of Trap- head to Diekirch to learn about Luxem- pist brews. Compare it with a St-Bernardus bourg’s WWII history at the country’s na- Tripel sipped in nearby Watou. tional military museum. Consider visiting Time your arrival at to coincide Bourscheid to admire one of the Grand Pipaix Duchy’s most impressive medieval castle with a visit to the steam brewery. Then con- ruins and its 17th-century neighbour. Head tinue into the rural Botte du Hainaut area, home to legendary Trappist beer, to Vianden, whose restored fortress looms Chimay above the town, reached by a chairlift. and the Fagnes brewery at Mariembourg. Travel on to pretty Clervaux, whose castle Belgium’s southeast holds a brewery- contains Edward Steichen’s World Herit- monastery at Orval and Achouffe. Heading age–listed photography exhibition Family back to Brussels, visit Val-Dieu brew-abbey of Man, then continue to Liège in Belgium and try some white beer at Hoegaarden. or return to Luxembourg City. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 292

Directory A–Z

cutting prices in cities like cial recreation parks. Most Brussels, Luxembourg, Liège have basic cooking facilities, Accessible Travel and Mechelen. Many options charge an extra fee for elec- Progressive tourism manage- include breakfast. National tricity/heating and limit stays ment bodies have produced a taxes are invariably included to a maximum of four nights. wealth of information to help in quoted prices, but several those with a disability to plan towns add a small additional Gîtes & Apartments and enjoy a stay. Naturally, stadsbelasting/taxe de sé- A great family option, par- all those cobblestones are jour (city tourist tax), which ticularly in rural areas, is to a literal pain in the derrière might add a euro or three per rent an apartment or espe- for wheelchair users, but head to the tally. cially a holiday home, with the country is well endowed some options on farms or in with kerb cuts, tactile paving, Camping, Caravan , converted stables or audible signals at pedestrian Parks & Hikers’ Huts historic buildings. In Flanders crossings and wheelchair- Camping and caravan facil- such places are often known accessible taxis. Most major ities are plentiful, especially as landelijk verblijf; in Wal- museums are accessible, par- in the Ardennes. Typical lonia as gîtes rurals. ticularly in Flanders, but the rates are compounded from Rentals are typically, but caves and castle ruins of rural per-person, per-car and not always, by the week and Wallonia and Luxembourg are per-site fees. For those with for the whole building, with never likely to be. small tents, it is sometimes prices varying by season, cheaper to arrive without a number of occupants and reservation, assuming space house standards. There is Accommodation remains. But for those with often an extra cleaning cost Accommodation availability a caravan, booking ahead is that’s charged per stay. Don’t varies markedly by season wise, especially in summer. confuse a gîte rural with a and area. From May to Sep- Many sites close from Octo- gîte d’étape, which in Bel- tember occupancy is very ber to April. gium is essentially a hostel, high (especially at weekends) Simple wood-cabin ac- albeit sometimes limited to along the Belgian coast and commodation for walkers group bookings. in Bruges, with the Ardennes is available in much of the Paid homestays and rent- also packed during July region; they’re known as als are available through the and August and on sunny wanderhütten in Luxembourg usual home-sharing services. and trekkershutten (www. weekends. However, those Hostels same weekends you’ll find trekkershutten.nl) in Flan- Hostels (jeugdherbergen in business-centred hotels ders. They’re often attached to campgrounds or provin- Dutch; auberges de jeunesse in French) generally charge from €18 to €28 for a dorm BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE bed, including sheets and basic breakfast. Neither For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet towels nor soap are usually authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. included. Lockers are often You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommen- included, but you’ll frequent- ly need your own padlock to dations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can use them. A few of the cheap- book online. est private hostels charge ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 303

Language

Belgium’s population is split between ‘schwetz dear anglish’) meaning ‘Do you Dutch-speaking Flanders in the north, speak English?’ French-speaking Wallonia in the south, and the small German-speaking region, known as the Eastern Cantons, based around the DUTCH towns of Eupen and St Vith in the east. Brus- The pronunciation of Dutch is fairly straight- sels is officially bilingual though French has forward. The language does distinguish be- long been the city’s dominant language. tween long and short vowels, which can af- The Dutch spoken in Belgium is also called fect the meaning of words; for example, man ‘’, underlining the cultural identity of (man) and maan (moon). Also note that aw is the . The grammar and spell- pronounced as in ‘law’, eu as the ‘u’ in ‘nurse’, ing rules of Dutch in Belgium and in the Neth- ew as the ‘ee’ in ‘see’ (with rounded lips), oh erlands are the same, and ‘Flemish’(Vlaams) as the ‘o’ in ‘note’, öy as the ‘er y’ (without the is not a separate language in itself. ‘r’) in ‘her year’, and uh as in ‘ago’. Visitors’ attempts to speak French in The consonants are pretty simple to pro- Flanders are generally considered culturally nounce too. Note that kh is a throaty sound, insensitive and ill-informed, especially in less similar to the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch, r is tourist-oriented cities such as Leuven and trilled – both may require a bit of practice – Hasselt. English, on the other hand, is con- and zh is pronounced as the ‘s’ in ‘pleasure’. sidered neutral and quite acceptable – many If you read our coloured pronunciation Flemish speak English fluently. guides as if they were English, you’ll be un- Luxembourg has three official languages: derstood just fine. The stressed syllables are French, German and Letzeburgesch. Most indicated with italics. people are fluent in all three as well as in Eng- Where relevant, both polite and informal lish, which is widely spoken in the capital and options in Dutch are included, indicated with by younger people around the countryside. ‘pol’ and ‘inf’ respectively. Letzeburgesch is most closely related to German and was proclaimed the national tongue in 1984. Luxembourgers speak Letze- burgesch to each other but generally switch Basics to French when talking to foreigners. A couple Hello. Dag./Hallo. dakh/ha·loh of Letzeburgesch words often overheard are moien (good morning/hello), äddi (goodbye) Goodbye. Dag. dakh and wann ech gelifft (please). Like French Yes. Ja. yaa speakers, Luxembourgers say merci for ‘thank you’. A phrase that might come in use- No. Nee. ney ful is Schwatzt dir Englesch? (pronounced Please. Alstublieft. (pol) al·stew·bleeft Alsjeblieft. (inf) a·shuh·bleeft WANT MORE? Thank you. Dank u/je. (pol/inf) dangk ew/yuh For in-depth language information and You’re Graag gedaan. khraakh khuh·daan handy phrases, check out Lonely Plan- welcome. et’s Western Europe Phrasebook. You’ll Excuse me. Excuseer mij. eks·kew·zeyr mey find it atshop.lonelyplanet.com , or How are you? you can buy Lonely Planet’s Fast Talk Hoe gaat het hoo khaat huht app at the Apple App Store. met u/jou? (pol/inf) met ew/yaw ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 315

Index

A area codes 296 Berdorf 259 highlights 84 abbeys & monasteries Arlon 220 Bergen 191-5 history 85-7 Abbaye d’Aulne 201-2 art 10, 286-8, 10 bicycle travel, see cycling shopping 101-2 Abbaye de Villers 202 art galleries, see museums bière blanche 284 sights 87-94 Abbaye d’Echternach 257 & galleries Binche 195-6, 10 tourist information 102 St-Pietersabdij 133 art nouveau 15, 290, 15 Blégny Mine 234 tours 94 Abdij Sint-Sixtus 116 Antwerp 156 boat travel 299, 300 travel to/from 83, 102 accessible travel 292 Brussels 57 Bock Casemates 245 travel within 102-3 accommodation 18, 292-3, Ath 190 Bogloon 180 Brûly-de-Pesche 204 see also individual Atlantikwall Raversyde 107 bolleke 159 Brussels 31, 34-82, 36-7, locations ATMs 296 books 266, 288 40-1, 46-7, 50-1, 54-5, language 304, 307 Atomium 59-60, 2 Botrange Nature Centre 241 58, 2, 5, 9 Achouffe 222 Aubechies 190 Botte de Hainaut 202-4 accommodation 34, 62-5 activities 21, 30, 293-4, see Audenarde 125-7 Bouillon 216-19 architecture 49, 53, 57, 60 also cycling, walking Aulne 201-2 Bourscheid 260, 12 children, travel with 29 Adoration of the Mystic discount cards 38 Aywaille 238 Brabo Fountain 145, 2 Lamb, The 129 drinking & nightlife 71-6 air travel 298, 299 Bredene 106 Brel, Jacques 39 driving distances 34 Alle 219 B entertainment 76 Baarle-Hertog 166 breweries Ambiorix 181 fashion district 79 Baarle-Nassau 166 Abdij Sint-Sixtus 116 Antwerp 12, 144-64, 146-7, food 34, 65-71 150-1, 154, 2, 13 Bastogne 220-2 Brouwerij Cafe de Seefhoek 160 highlights 36-7 accommodation 142, 152-6 bathrooms 297 Brouwerij De Halve history 35 activities 145-51 Battle of the Ardennes 221 Maan 89 shopping 78-80, 81 discount cards 145 Battle of the Bulge 221 Brouwerij Het Anker 173 sights 38-60, 63 drinking & nightlife Battle of the Golden Spurs Brussels Beer Project 72 tourist information 60, 159-62 124 Cantillon Brewery 58-9 80-1 driving distances 142 Battle of Waterloo 198 De Koninck 151 tours 60 entertainment 162 Beaufort 259-60 museums 39, 57, 89, travel to/from 34, 81 festivals & events 151-2 Beauvoorde 113 211-12 travel within 81-2 food 142, 156-9 beer 13, 283-5, 13 Notre Dame d’Orval 220 walking tours 49, 61, 61 history 144 bolleke 159 Pipaix 190 Bruxellois 48, 279 shopping 162-3 gueuze 57 Poperinge 115 budget 17 sights 145-51 itineraries 28, 28 Stella Artois 175-6 bus travel 298-9, 300-1 tourist information 163 lambic 57, 58, 284 tours 285 business hours 296 travel to/from 142, 163-4 pintje 159 Westmalle 164-5 travel within 164 Trappist 13, 115, 116, 164-5, Brouwerij Het Anker 173 archaeological sites 203, 220, 283 C Bruges 9, 85-103, 86, Coudenberg 45 witbier 284 Canal Bruxelles Charleroi 90-1, 8-9 194 Malagne 215 begijnhoven 11, 21, 290 accommodation 83, 95-6 Cantons de l’Est 240-2 architecture 11, 290 Bruges 93 drinking & nightlife 99-100, car travel 299, 301 Ardennes 204-42 Kortrijk 124, 11 101 Lier 167 Carnaval de Binche 10, driving distances 83 196, Turnhout 165 10 entertainment 100-1 castles & palaces 12, 20 belfries 11, 21, 290 Map Pages 000 festivals & events 94-5 accommodation 263 Belgian royalty 275, 277 Photo Pages 000 food 83, 96-9 Beaufort Castles 259-60 Belœil 191 316 castles & palaces Église Notre-Dame de la Luxembourg City 255 ferries 299 continued Chapelle 44 Moselle Valley 255 festivals & events 22-5 Château de Belœil 191 Église Notre-Dame du Namur 211 film 266, 288 Sablon 48 Château de Bouillon 217 Poperinge 115 Flanders fields 14, 120-3, 14 Église Ste-Catherine 42 Château de Bourscheid food 280-2, 295, see 260-1, 12 Église Ste-Marie 47-8 also individual locations

INDEX INDEX Château de Fy 290 Église St-Jean-Baptiste D children, travel with 30 au Béguinage 42 Damme 103 Château de Lavaux- language 304-5, 307-8 Jeruzalemkerk 93 dance 288 Sainte-Anne 214 football 267 National Basilica 59 dangers 267, 296 C - H -  C Château de Modave 225 Forêt de Soignes 55-6 Onze Lieve de Bouillon, Godefroid 217 Château de Vianden Frahan-sur-Semois 219 261, Vrouwebasiliek De Haan 105 3 frites 281 Château de Wiltz 264 (Tongeren) 181 De Panne 112-13 Gravensteen 129, 131 Onze-Lieve- Demeulemeester, Ann 163 Vrouwekathedraal Kasteel Beauvoorde 113 Deurle 135 G (Antwerp) 145 Kasteel van Beersel 57 Diekirch 260-1 galleries, see museums & Onze-Lieve- Diest 179 galleries Kasteelpark Vrouwekerk 89 121 Diksmuide 114 Gand, see Ghent Sint-Baafskathedraal Museumtuin Kasteel van dinanderie 212 gardens, see parks & 129, 131-2 gardens Gaasbeek 57 Dinant 211-13 St-Carolus- gay travellers 75, 296 Palais Grand-Ducal 245-7 Borromeuskerk 148 disabilities, travellers Gaye, Marvin 110 Palais Royal 45 St-Leonarduskerk 180 with 292 Gent, see Ghent cathedrals, see churches & St-Petrus-&-Pauluskerk discount cards 103, 294-5, cathedrals 106 see also individual Geraardsbergen 127-8 locations caves 14, 21 St-Pieterskerk 176 Ghent 13, 128-41, 130-1, distilleries 201 , Grotte de Lorette 214-15 St-Romboutskathedraal 134 13 Grottes de Han 14, 169 Doornik 186-90 accommodation 83, 136-7 213, 14 St-Salvatorskathedraal Dourbes 202 Grottes de Hotto 223 93 drinks 282, see also beer activities 135-6 Grottes du St-Walburgakerk 113 elixir d’Anvers 159 discount cards 129 Remouchamps 238 St-Willibrord Basilica 257 jenever 179, 282 drinking & nightlife 139-40 Parcours Speleo 213 Circuit Spa-Francorchamps wine 256, 282 cell phones 296 236 driving 299, 301 driving distances 83 Charleroi 199-201 Citadelle de Namur 205 Durbuy 223-4 entertainment 140 children, travel with 29-30, Clervaux 263, 264 festivals & events 136 302 climate 16, 294 food 83, 137-9 Chimay 203-4 comic strips & books E highlights 84 Eastern Cantons 240-2 chips 281 15, 289 history 128-9 Echternach 257-9 chocolate 10, 281-2, 10 murals 45 shopping 141 economy 266-7 factories 233 museums 45-6 sights 129-35 Edingen 191 museums 89 shops 81 tourist information 141 Éislek 260-4 shops 80, 101, 162-3, 232 Tintin 199 tours 135-6 electricity 295 churches & cathedrals Coo 237-8 travel to/from 83, 141 elixir d’Anvers 159 Basiliek van het Heilig costs 17 travel within 141 emergencies Bloed 88 Coudenberg 45 Grammont 127-8 language 305, 308-9 Cathédrale des Sts- Courtrai 123-5 Grand Place (Brussels) telephone 17 Michel & Gudule 44 credit cards 296 9, 38, 9 Enghien 191 Cathédrale Notre Dame crémants 256 Gravensteen 129, 131 (Tournai) 186 Esch-sur-Sûre 263-4 Crupet 211 Grevenmacher 256 Cathédrale Notre-Dame etiquette 19 crystal 229 Grotte de Lorette 214-15 (Luxembourg City) Ettelbrück 260 culture 278-9 Grottes de Han 14, 213, 14 247-8 EU Parliament 53 currency 17 Grottes de Hotton 223 Collégiale Ste-Gertrude Eupen 242 196 customs regulations 294 Grottes du Remouchamps Euro Space Center 214 Collégiale Ste-Waudru Cwarmê 240 238 events, see festivals & 192 cycling 293, 299-300 events Antwerp 151, 164 H Bruges 94, 102, 103 Hageland 179-80 F Map Pages Brussels 53, 60, 82 Han 256 000 Fagnolle 202 Photo Pages Liège 233 Han-sur-Lesse 213-14, 14 000 Family of Man 264 317 Hanswijk Procession 171 lambic beer 284 travel to/from 254 Grand Curtius 225 Haspengouw 180-2 Langemark Deutscher travel within 255 Groeningemuseum 88-9 Hasselt 179-80 Soldatenfriedhof 120 Historium 88 Hautes Fagnes 241 language 16, 19, 278-9, Hooge Crater Museum 303-12 M 123 health 295 Magritte, René 44 Bruxellois 48 Hôpital Notre-Dame à la Hepburn, Audrey 288 Malines, see Mechelen

Dutch 303-6 Rose 191 INDEX Het Zwin 104-5 Malmédy 240-2 hiking, see walking French 307-10 House of European Manneken Pis 39 History 53 history 268-77 Letzeburgesch 303 Mariembourg 202-3 In Flanders Fields place names 301 M -  H hitching 301 measures 296 Museum 116 Hitler, Adolf 204 Larochette 257, 259 Mechelen 13, 168-74, 170 Jewish Museum 44 holidays 296 Lavaux-Ste-Anne 214 media 296 Kazerne Dossin 170 Hooge 122-3 Le Coq 105 Memorial 1815 197 M HKA 149 Hoogstraten 166 legal matters 296 Léopold II 274-5, 290 Meunier, Constantin 49-50, M Van Museum 174-5 Hôpital Notre-Dame à la 287 Memorial 1815 197 Rose 191 lesbian travellers 75, 296 Mini Europe 60 Memorial Museum Horta, Victor 15, 49, Lessines 191 MOBIB 300 Passchendaele 1917 53-4, 15 Leuven 174-9, 175 mobile phones 296 121 Hotton Caves 223 LGBT travellers 75, 296 monasteries, see abbeys & MIM 44 Hougoumont 197, 198 Liège 224-33, 226-7 monasteries MIMA 42 Huy 224 accommodation 228-9 money 19, 296 Mons Memorial Museum drinking & nightlife 231-2 Mons 191-5 191-2 I entertainment 232 Moselle Valley 255-7 MSK 133 festivals & events 228 Ieper 14, 116-20, 118, 14 motor racing 236 Mudam 248 immigration 279 food 230-1 motorcycle travel 299, 301 Musée Antoine Wiertz 54 In Bruges 97 history 224-5 Müllerthal 257-60 Musée Art & Histoire 53 industrial heritage 20-1 shopping 232 museums & galleries Musée Constantin insurance 295 sights 225-8 Abbaye de Stavelot Meunier 49-50 internet access 295-6 tourist information 232 238-9 travel to/from 232-3 ADAM 60 Musée d’Art internet resources 17 Fantastique 50 travel within 233 Africa Museum 55 itineraries 26-8, 26, 27, 28 Musée David et Alice van Lier 167-8 Anno 1465 107-8 Buuren 56 Lillo 153 Archéosite 190 Musée de la Brasserie 39 J Limbourg 234 Argos 39, 42 Jeanneke Pis 39 Musée de la Lissewege 106 Bastogne War Museum Photographie 200 jenever 179, 282 Lompret 202 220 Musée des Beaux-Arts Jewish population 278 Louvain, see Leuven Baugnez 44 240 186-8 Louvain-la-Neuve 199 Bokrijk Musée des Sciences K Luxembourg 32, 243-64, Openluchtmuseum 179 Naturelles 52 Kasteelpark Zonnebeke 121 244 brewery museums 39, Musée d’Histoire de la 57, 58-9, 89 Katholieke Universiteit van accommodation 243 Ville de Luxembourg Leuven 176 driving distances 243 Brussels walking tours 247 Keizer Karel V 270-1 food 243 61, 61 Musée Hergé 15, 199, 15 Knokke-Heist 103-4 highlights 244 Centre Belge de la Bande Musée Horta 49 Dessinée 45-6 Kortrijk 123-5, 11 tourist information 245 Musée Littéraire Victor Centrum De Ronde van Hugo 262 KUL 176 travel to/from 243 Vlaanderen 126 Musée Magritte 44 travel within 245 children, for 30 Luxembourg City 14, 245-55, Musée Mode & chocolate 89 Dentelle 38 L 246, 14 La Ducasse 193 De Lambiek 57 Musée National accommodation 249-51 La Muette de Portici 274 Dernier Quartier Général d’Histoire Militaire 261 drinking & nightlife La Roche-en-Ardenne de Napoléon 198-9 Musée Royal de l’Armée 252-3 222-3 Erasmus House Museum et d’Histoire entertainment 253-4 La Wallonie, see Wallonia 58 Militaire 54 festivals & events 249 lace making 38, 93 Euro Space Center 214 Musées Royaux des food 251-2 Lacs de l’Eau d’Heure 202 Family of Man 264 Beaux-Arts 44 history 245 Laetare 239 Ferme Brasserie Mont- Museum Mayer van den shopping 254 Saint-Jean 197-8 Bergh 145-6 Lafôret 219 sights 245-9 Fourneau St-Michel Museum Plantin- Lakenhalle 117 tours 249 216 Moretus 145 318 museums & galleries passports 298 soccer 267 vegan travellers 281 continued Philippeville 202 Souterrains 205 vegetarian travellers 281 Museum Sint- pintje 159 Spa 235-7 Veianen 261-3, 3 Janshospitaal 89 Pipaix 190 spas 236 Verbeke Foundation 165 National Bank of place names 301 sport 267, 278 Verviers 233-5 Belgium Museum 46-7 Plan Incliné de Ronquières Sprinprozession 258 Veurne 113-14

INDEX INDEX OLV-ter-Potterie 94 194 Stadhuis (Leuven) 174 Vianden 261-3, 3 Sanctuary Wood (Hill 62) Plancenoit 198 Museum 122-3 Stavelot 238-40 Villers la Ville 202 planning 16-17, 18-19 Silex’s 193 Stella Artois 175-6 visas 297, 298 M - Z -  M Belgium & Luxembourg St-Gilles Town Hall 49 Vresse-sur-Semois 219 Snijder-Rockoxhuis 146 basics 16-17 Speelgoedmuseum 169 St-Hubert 216 Belgium & Luxembourg’s St-Martens-Latem 135 Stadsmuseum 107 regions 31-2 St Niklaas 165 W STAM 133 budgeting 17 waffles 282 St-Pietersabdij 133 Talbot House 114-15 calendar of events 22-5 walking 294 Strépy-Thieu Boat-Lift 194 Train World 43 children, travel with Hautes Fagnes 241 St-Trond 180-1 Verbeke Foundation 165 29-30 Müllerthal 258, 259 surrealism 20, 287 Volkskundemuseum 94 first-time visitors 18-19 walking tours Wiels 56 itineraries 26-8, 26, Brussels 49, 60, 61, 61 music 289 27, 28 T Wallonia 32, 183-242, travel resources 17 Tchantchès 230 184-5 travel seasons 16, 22-5 telephone services 296 accommodation 183 N politics 266-7 Thuin 201 driving distances 183 Namur 204-11, 206 Poperinge 114-16 Tienen 180 National Basilica 59 food 183 population 267, 278-9 time 16, 296-7 newspapers 296 highlights 184-5 postal services 296 Tintin 199, 289 Nieuwpoort 111 tourist information 186 public holidays 296 tipping 19 Nijvel 196-7 travel within 183 public transport 300, 301-2 Tirlemont 180 Nismes 202-3 Waterloo 197-9 toilets 297 Nivelles 196-7 Watou 115 Tombeau du Géant 219 Q weather 16, 294 Quint, Charles 270-1 Tomorrowland 152 websites 17 O Tongeren 181-2 weights 296 Oostduinkerke 111-12 Tongres 181-2 Westmalle 164-5 opening hours 296 R Tournai 186-90, 187 Westvleteren 115, 116, Ragnies 201 Orval 220 tourist information 297 283-4 Ost Kantonen 240-2 Redu 214 train travel 299, 301-2, white beer 284 religion 267, 271-2, 279 Ostend 106-11, 108 302 Wiltz 264 Oudenaarde 125-7 Remerschen 256-7 travel seasons 16, 22-5 wine 256, 282 ride sharing 301 travel to/from Belgium & witbier 284 Rochefort 214-16 Luxembourg 298-9 Woesten 115 P Rochehaut 219 Pairi Daiza 192 travel within Belgium work 297 royalty, Belgian 275, 277 & Luxembourg 17, palaces, see castles & Wormeldange 256 299-302 palaces Rubens, Pieter Paul 145, WWI 14, 122, 275 148, 287 Turnhout 165-7 Palais de Justice 48-9 WWII 276 Tyne Cot CWGC Palais Grand-Ducal 245-7 Cemetary 121 parks & gardens S Y Domaine Provincial de safety 267, 296 Ypres (Ieper) 14, 116-20, Chevetogne 215 Sax, Adolphe 212 U 118, 14 Forêt de Soignes 55-6 saxophones 212 Universiteitsbibliotheek 176 Ypres Salient 120-3, 121 Parc d’Enghien 191 Schengen 255-7 Parc du Cinquantenaire Scherpenheuvel 179 V 52-3 Semois River Valley 219 vacations 296 Z Place du Petit Sablon 48 Zeebrugge 106 senior travellers 294 Val St-Lambert 229 Planetuin Meise 63 Zimmertoren 167 Seraing 229 Val-Dieu 234 Passendale 121-3 Zinneke 39 Sint-Baafskathedraal 129, van Beirendonck, Walter 131-2 163 Zonnebeke 121-3 Sint-Truiden 180-1 van Eyck, Jan 286 Zoutleeuw 180 Map Pages 000 skiing 294 van Noten, Dries 163 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Mark Elliott As a small child, Mark was dragged up a conical hill to meet a giant lion (at Waterloo) then let loose inside an enormous chemistry set (the Atomium). To a baby Brit, Belgium already looked pretty weird. But that was just the start. Hav- ing been based there for half of the last three decades, he has long since dis- covered that the country’s surrealism runs even deeper – from art to countless crazy carnivals. He is the (co)writer of more than 60 travel books and guides.

Catherine Le Nevez Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and postgrad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Over the past dozen-plus years she’s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond.

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