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Belgium-Luxembourg-7-Preview.Pdf

Belgium-Luxembourg-7-Preview.Pdf

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Belgium &

Bruges, & & Northwest Northeast Belgium p83 p142 #_ p34

Wallonia p183

Luxembourg p243 #_

Mark Elliott, Catherine Le Nevez, Helena Smith, Regis St Louis, Benedict Walker PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to BRUSSELS ...... 34 ANTWERP Belgium & Luxembourg. . . 4 Sights...... 38 & NORTHEAST Belgium & Luxembourg Tours...... 60 BELGIUM...... 142 Map...... 6 Sleeping...... 62 Antwerp (Antwerpen) ...... 144 Belgium & Luxembourg’s Eating...... 65 Top 15...... 8 Around Antwerp. . . . . 164 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 71 Westmalle...... 164 Need to Know...... 16 Entertainment ...... 76 ...... 165 First Time ...... 78 Lier...... 167 Belgium & Luxembourg. . .. 18 Information...... 80 ...... 168 If You Like...... 20 Getting There & Away. . . . 81 ...... 174 Getting Around...... 81 Month by Month. . . . . 22 ...... 179 Itineraries ...... 26 ...... 179 , GHENT ...... 179 with Children. . . . 29 & NORTHWEST Haspengouw...... 180 at a Glance. . . .. 31 BELGIUM...... 83 ...... 180 Bruges...... 85 ...... 180 ...... 103

ALEKSEI VELIZHANIN /SHUTTERSTOCK © Sint-Truiden...... 180 Belgian Coast...... 103 ...... 181 -Heist ...... 103 De Haan...... 105 ...... 106 ...... 183 & Western Wallonia. . . . 186 Lissewege ...... 106 ...... 186 (Oostende) . . . . 106 Pipaix...... 190 Nieuwpoort...... 111 Aubechies...... 190 Oostduinkerke ...... 111 ...... 190 ...... 112 ...... 191 GALERIES ST-HUBERT, Country...... 113 ...... 191 BRUSSELS P38 ...... 113 ...... 191 ...... 114 ...... 195

MISTERVLAD /HUTTERSTOCK © ...... 114 ...... 196 (Ieper)...... 116 Waterloo Ypres ...... 120 Battlefield...... 197 ...... 123 Louvain-la-Neuve. . . . . 199 ...... 125 ...... 199 ...... 127 ...... 201 Ghent...... 128 Aulne ...... 201

BRABO FOUNTAIN, ANTWERP P145 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Belgium & Luxembourg Today. . . . 266 PIGPROX/SHUTTERSTOCK © History...... 268 The Belgian People . . . 278 Creative Cuisine. . . . . 280 Belgian Beer...... 283 Arts & Architecture. . . 286

CHÂTEAU DE , VIANDEN P261 SURVIVAL Botte de Hainaut. . . . . 202 ...... 233 GUIDE ...... 202 Spa...... 235 & Coo...... 237 Directory A-Z...... 292 Nismes...... 202 ...... 238 ...... 298 ...... 203 The Eastern Cantons. . .. 240 The ...... 204 Language...... 303 ...... 204 LUXEMBOURG . . . . 243 Index...... 315 Crupet ...... 211 Luxembourg . . . . 245 Map Legend...... 319 ...... 211 Moselle Valley...... 255 Han-sur-Lesse...... 213 Schengen & Rochefort...... 214 Remerschen ...... 255 St-Hubert...... 216 Müllerthal . . . . 257 ...... 216 Larochette...... 257 Orval...... 220 Echternach ...... 257 ...... 220 Beaufort...... 259 ...... 220 Éislek...... 260 Achouffe ...... 222 Bourscheid ...... 260 La Roche- ...... 260 en-Ardenne...... 222 Vianden...... 261 SPECIAL ...... 223 Esch-sur-Sûre...... 263 FEATURES ...... 224 Wiltz...... 264 First Time Liège...... 224 Clervaux...... 264 Belgium & Luxembourg. . 18 The Belgian People . . . 278 Creative Cuisine. . . . . 280 Belgian Beer...... 283 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26

Itineraries

N O R T H S E A

Antwerp •# •#

É Bruges É •# Lier

É •# É Veurne •# •# Ghent Mechelen

É É •# Westvleteren Leuven •# •# #_ BELGIUM Ypres É BRUSSELS É

•# Waterloo

Tournai •# É É

Mons •#

2 WEEKS Belgium’s Greatest Hits

Taking in nearly a dozen of Belgium’s top destinations in two weeks is likely to be an exhausting but unforgettable experience. You will of course admire the in Brussels, explore gloriously multifac- eted Ghent and visit idyllic, ever-popular Bruges. Then add a day in Ypres with its magnificent cloth hall and moving WWI history; if you’re driving, get there by swinging through lovable Veurne and beer-grail Westvleteren en route. Tournai is well worth a brief stop to admire its magnificent Romanesque , then head to historic Mons with its excellent portfolio of museums. Looping back to- wards Brussels, the Waterloo battle site is a major draw, if slightly fiddly to reach by . Or going northeast to Leuven – brew-home of Stella Artois and Leffe – with its splendid town hall and mind-blowing square full of student bars. Before giving in to the irresistible pull of amazing Antwerp, do stop in underrated Mechelen, Belgium’s spiritual heart. And don’t miss lovely Lier, a gem of a town with a loop of , an extensive central square, a plethora of old houses, a Unesco-listed begijnhof and a remarkable astronomical clock speckled with planets and dials. 27

NETHERLANDS •#

•# Zoutleeuw

É Sint-Truiden #_ •# É Val-Dieu Leuven •# •# BRUSSELS •# Tienen Tongeren •#

•# É •# •#

Waterloo •# TRIP YOUR PLAN Liège •# •#

Verviers É É

É É Haute Fagnes •# •# Charleroi Airport BELGIUM Mons •# É Stavelot •# •# •# •# Coo •# Aulne Baugnez Thuin É Freÿr •# ÉÉ É •# Rochefort La-Roche-en-Ardenne FRANCE •# It

•# Fourneau i nerar •# Mariembourg

•# Han-sur- •# St-Michel •# Lesse É Nismes •# Bastogne

Chimay É i es

Vresse-sur-•# É •# Rochehaut •# LUXEMBOURG •# Tombeau du Géant Bouillon

2 WEEKS Dawdling on the Back Roads

This driving trip takes in some of Belgium’s more off-beat and its most charming rural corners. Starting from the airport in either Brussels or Charleroi, pick up a rental car and drive via ’s Waterloo to museum-rich Mons, which was ’s cul- tural capital back in 2015. Continue via Aulne abbey ruins and the ‘hanging gardens’ of Thuin to spend two nights in or around the pretty little town of Chimay, famed for its beer. Tootle on along the pretty lanes to Mariembourg and very attractive Nis- mes, possibly taking the steam train. Visit the splendid gardens of Freÿr and the fabu- lous caves at Han-sur-Lesse or less commercial versions at Rochefort, which is home to another Trappist brewery and some fine local accommodation. From Rochefort drive down to Bouillon with its looming Crusader castle ruin, and kayak along some of Bel- gium’s loveliest wooded valleys around Vresse-sur-Semois. Follow the Semois Valley in both directions enjoying the panoramas at Rochehaut and Tombeau du Géant. Head northeast to visit the excellent war museum at Bastogne, then cut across through thick via St-Hubert and the impressive open-air museum of Fourneau St-Michel to La Roche-en-Ardenne, with its castle ghost and sad but fascinating WWII history. Famed for its long-nosed characters, attractive Stavelot makes a good base for outdoor activities organised at nearby Coo. Or sleep in cathedral-town Malmedy and visit the WWII museum at Baugnez before making a day-hike on the Hautes Fagnes. Stop for coffee and pastries in Eupen, Belgium’s only really Germanic city, or for a beer in delightful little Limbourg en route to underrated Verviers, a once-grand city with an excellent new museum. Lovely country lanes lead on to beautiful Val-Dieu monastery and nearby Blegny, where you can descend into Bel- gium’s last accessible coal mine. After a dose of boistrous, big-city action in sprawling Liège comes quieter, appealing Tongeren, Belgium’s ‘oldest’ town and then the Roman road to attractive Sint-Truiden. Wander the pretty Haspengouw lanes and peruse the remarkable church in Zoutleeuw plus more Roman remnants in Tienen before spend- ing your last night in the lively student city of Leuven. 28

To Belgium Clervaux•# D

N O R T H

É S E A É NETHERLANDS •#Vianden

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É

•# É Diekirch

Bourscheid •#

Y É É Echternach

Mechelen N LUXEMBOURG •# •# A

É M

•# Westvleteren R Larochette •# E £# #_ G •# É É •# BRUSSELS •# •# Val-Dieu Pipaix

It É BELGIUM É

i nerar É É

É Mariembourg •# •# Chimay É Moselle •#Achouffe

i es #_ wine country •# LUXEMBOURG É •# É GERMANY FRANCE Orval

FRANCE

Lovable 5 7 Belgian Beer Tour DAYS Luxembourg DAYS Little Luxembourg makes an unexpectedly You could claim cultural motivations for complete destination. Accommodation pric- touring Belgium’s monasteries and historic es in Luxembourg City fall dramatically at towns, pretending that you’re only tasting weekends, while midweek is better for the the local brews out of politeness along the rural castle villages, with smaller crowds way. But do sign up a patient designated and less traffic on the country lanes. driver – some of these magnificent monster- Arrive in Luxembourg City on Friday brews tip the scales at 10% or more. afternoon to make the most of the city’s Start in Brussels by paying respects at nightlife, particularly at Rives de Clausen L’Arbre d’Or, the brewers’ building on within a former brewery. Buy a Luxembourg the Grand Place. Learn about at Card on Saturday if you’re planning to see brewery, then let beer teach you all of the main museums, or just stroll the local history at Het Anker in Mechelen. city ramparts and gorges. On Monday strike While exploring the hop-growing re- out for Echternach, either via Larochette gion of western , the ultimate or through the Moselle wine country. beer pilgrimage is to Sint-Sixtus Abbey at Hike in the Müllerthal micro-canyons then Westvleteren, home to the rarest of Trap- head to Diekirch to learn about Luxem- pist brews. Compare it with a St-Bernardus bourg’s WWII history at the country’s na- Tripel sipped in nearby Watou. tional military museum. Consider visiting Time your arrival at to coincide Bourscheid to admire one of the Grand Pipaix Duchy’s most impressive medieval castle with a visit to the steam brewery. Then con- ruins and its 17th-century neighbour. Head tinue into the rural Botte du Hainaut area, home to legendary Trappist beer, to Vianden, whose restored fortress looms Chimay above the town, reached by a chairlift. and the Fagnes brewery at Mariembourg. Travel on to pretty Clervaux, whose castle Belgium’s southeast holds a brewery- contains Edward Steichen’s World Herit- monastery at Orval and Achouffe. Heading age–listed photography exhibition Family back to Brussels, visit Val-Dieu brew-abbey of Man, then continue to Liège in Belgium and try some white beer at Hoegaarden. or return to Luxembourg City. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 292

Directory A–Z

cutting prices in cities like cial recreation parks. Most Brussels, Luxembourg, Liège have basic cooking facilities, Accessible Travel and Mechelen. Many options charge an extra fee for elec- Progressive manage- include breakfast. National tricity/heating and limit stays ment bodies have produced a taxes are invariably included to a maximum of four nights. wealth of information to help in quoted prices, but several those with a disability to plan towns add a small additional Gîtes & Apartments and enjoy a stay. Naturally, stadsbelasting/taxe de sé- A great family option, par- all those cobblestones are jour (city tourist tax), which ticularly in rural areas, is to a literal pain in the derrière might add a euro or three per rent an apartment or espe- for wheelchair users, but head to the tally. cially a home, with the country is well endowed some options on farms or in with kerb cuts, tactile paving, Camping, Caravan , converted stables or audible signals at pedestrian Parks & Hikers’ Huts historic buildings. In Flanders crossings and wheelchair- Camping and caravan facil- such places are often known accessible taxis. Most major ities are plentiful, especially as landelijk verblijf; in Wal- museums are accessible, par- in the Ardennes. Typical lonia as gîtes rurals. ticularly in Flanders, but the rates are compounded from Rentals are typically, but caves and castle ruins of rural per-person, per-car and not always, by the week and Wallonia and Luxembourg are per-site fees. For those with for the whole building, with never likely to be. small tents, it is sometimes prices varying by season, cheaper to arrive without a number of occupants and reservation, assuming space house standards. There is Accommodation remains. But for those with often an extra cleaning cost Accommodation availability a caravan, booking ahead is that’s charged per stay. Don’t varies markedly by season wise, especially in summer. confuse a gîte rural with a and area. From May to Sep- Many sites close from Octo- gîte d’étape, which in Bel- tember occupancy is very ber to April. gium is essentially a , high (especially at weekends) Simple wood-cabin ac- albeit sometimes limited to along the Belgian coast and commodation for walkers group bookings. in Bruges, with the Ardennes is available in much of the Paid homestays and rent- also packed during July region; they’re known as als are available through the and August and on sunny wanderhütten in Luxembourg usual home-sharing services. and trekkershutten (www. weekends. However, those same weekends you’ll find trekkershutten.nl) in Flan- Hostels (jeugdherbergen in -centred ders. They’re often attached to campgrounds or provin- Dutch; auberges de jeunesse in French) generally charge from €18 to €28 for a dorm BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE bed, including sheets and basic breakfast. Neither For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet towels nor soap are usually authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. included. Lockers are often You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommen- included, but you’ll frequent- ly need your own padlock to dations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can use them. A few of the cheap- book online. est private hostels charge Activities

293 Directory A–Z ------knoten – lit ‘knoop knoop

plus those plus those as a simple string as a simple string , which compiles which compiles , and over 180 are 180 are and over knooppunten more than €140 more are known as known are €60–140 Topogids Vlaanderen Vlaanderen Topogids knooppunt less than €60 less Signs are typically green- typically Signs are In the Germanophone Wallonia’s networks of of networks Wallonia’s In Flanders consult incred consult In Flanders SLEEPING SLEEPING RANGES PRICE Ranges are based on the based are Ranges in a double room of cost high season. € €€ €€€ CYCLE-PATH SIGNAGE CYCLE-PATH punten punkten, sig VeloTour with marked on arrows using orange nage backgrounds. white Most helpfully, the routes use use the routes helpfully, Most turn numbered of a series ( points some ‘intersections’, erally ‘nodes’), as translated times that they cyclists reassuring on a the right place at are can cyclist A planned route. a then remember puntroute’ numbers. two-digit of or white-on-blue, on-white the spe with the number of cific with and ringed nearby others direction. show to arrows Cantons, Eastern over 60 detailed 1:50,000 1:50,000 60 detailed over ac and relevant maps route There commodation options. versions. downloadable are (Réseau RAVeL paths, cycle Lentes; Voies de Autonome and http://ravel.wallonie.be) (www.randovelo. Rando-Vélo or river canal use often org) rail and former towpaths with hard rebuilt tracks way a sells Rando-Vélo surfaces. guide maps. of range along with the Flanders, a single shares Netherlands, routes cycle LF of system marked. assiduously that are ibly extensive www.fietsroute. ibly extensive or buy the multilingual org book Fietsroute

------

(www. (www. (https:// (www.gitesdetape. (https://www.camp and to a lesser ex a lesser and to (www.lesaubergesdeje of the homeland of (www.gitesdewallonie.be, (www.gitesdewallonie.be, Belgium has excellent has excellent Belgium networks of well-signed bi well-signed of networks and minor lanes paths cycle maximise to together linked cyclists. for the possibilities are and booklets maps Keyed in available always almost offices. tourist local walkers and a charming walkers beginner kayakers for place above beauty put gentle to water. white high-adrenaline up set well are activities Most with children. families for Cycling the As super cycling first world’s no sur it’s Merckx, Eddy star, is a place that Belgium prise about cy passionate that’s as a spectator cling whether as a functional means sport, or transport, low-impact of fitness both for as an activity and touring. logereninvlaanderen.be) Apart logereninvlaanderen.be) in homes and holiday ments Flanders. rural Camping.be finder. Campground ing.be) Wallonia Camping Wallonian campingbelgique.be) commune. by listed campgrounds Luxembourg Camping in the Campgrounds camping.lu) Dutchy. Grand Activities Belgium, delight are Luxembourg, tent an unexpected cyclists, ful for long-distance for discovery Hostels www.youthhostels.be, unesse.be, Hos https://youthhostels.lu) International–affiliated telling and Flanders Wallonia, for sites respectively. Luxembourg d’Étape Gîtes accommodation Hostel-style be) in Belgium. Bed&Breakfast (http://bedandbreakfast.be) B&B listings. Official Gîtes holiday rural For www.gites.lu) and Luxem Wallonia in lettings respectively. bourg Vlaanderen in Logeren - - - in Dutch/ chambre / Hostels an be unstaffed an be unstaffed Hostels Gîtes d’ètape are aimed are d’ètape Gîtes kamer modation ahead, especially especially modation ahead, and smaller hotels, B&Bs have always which don’t receptions. most of them close to train train to close them of most and airports. stations Booking Services accom booking worth It’s near Ghent, Liège, Brussels Brussels Liège, Ghent, near Ibis Airport. and Brussels (www.accorhotels. Budget low- has nine simple, com) properties, Belgian cost If you’re driving and don’t driving and don’t If you’re locations banal mind drearily Campanile suburbs, in outer has (www.campanile.com) motorways off simple key-codes or make necessary necessary or make key-codes arrangements. alternative Motels as 300%. Check-in time is Check-in as 300%. Smaller 2pm. before rarely 24-hour have seldom hotels plan to if you so reception, note to be sure late, arrive necessarily reflect overall overall reflect necessarily a room for Prices quality. ( fit de to vary often French) as much by sometimes mand, Hotels classification Belgium’s facil for stars awards system dogs service, room (lifts, ities it doesn’t so etc), allowed at night, have limited check- limited have at night, in and might close in times longer). (or midwinter like youth hostels with bunk hostels youth like In prices. beds at bargain a there’s membership lieu of addition to in fee €3-per-stay quoted costs. primarily at school kids and primarily at school a (typically groups youth but people), 20 minimum of exactly operate them eight of to stay at a few hostels, you you hostels, at a few stay to joining by money save can HI association country’s your home. leaving before hostels, rates are cheaper cheaper are rates hostels, in Flanders, under-30s for Wallonia. in under-26s or for €2 to save also HI members if planning – so €3 per night extra for sheets. At Hostelling Hostelling At sheets. for extra (HI) affiliated International -

-

- - -

- -

discounts to discounts

on woodland woodland on 50g of perfume and perfume and 50g of 200 cigarettes, 50 50 cigarettes, 200 1L of spirits (more than than (more spirits of 1L , the following duty- the following , The highly worthwhile The highly worthwhile many have one day a month one day have many free. are museums when key (www. Card Luxembourg 1-/2-/ visitluxembourg.com; adult €13/20/28, 3-day gives €28/48/68) family Discount CardsDiscount typi and sights Museums small offer cally some 65, over (those seniors give 60) and often over times un those to discounts bigger children Accompanied der 26. some under 12, (typically pay under 18) generally times Students free. or go less even with an ISIC (International might, Card) Student Identity qualify for always, but won’t (usually rate’ ‘concession the Bigger as seniors). the same discount offer cities Belgian of a selection to ed passes and sights, owned municipally Tobacco tobacco loose or 250g of cigars Alcohol or 2L volume) by 22% alcohol than 22% abv); light liquor (less beer of wine; 16L of 4L Perfume de toilette eau of 0.25L you border, an EU Crossing quanti unlimited carry can person for it’s as long as ties if questions expect al use: be carrying to found are you than 800 cigarettes, more loose or 1kg of cigars 200 of 20L spirits, of 10L tobacco; 90L wine or aperitif, fortified beer. of wine or 110L of (langlaufen) a also are there but tracks, downhill modest of handful Ofivat near notably pistes, the Haute of edge on the site Dutch-language Fagnes. (www. Sneeuw Ardennen gives ardennen-sneeuw.be) at all the conditions snow ski areas. Ardennes major Customs Regulations outside purchased goods For the EU apply: allowances free

- - s/mm s/mm s/mm 4/100 3/75 2/50 1/25 4/100 3/75 2/50 1/25 4/100 3/75 2/50 1/25 0 0 0 - inche inche inche trekker N N N Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall O O O S S S (www.trekkershutten. A A A J J J for skiers, but when the skiers, for the E411 fall, does stuff white fills up rapidly road highway hur skiers with wannabe area Ardennes the rying to Most again. it all melts before such skiing is cross-country Netherlands, some some Netherlands, shutten Flanders within located nl) are simple accommoda offering walkers. tion to ClimbingRock (http://en.belclimb. BelClimb for resource is a superb be) exhaustive offering climbers, a guides, climbing to links Belgium’s map of searchable practice indoor-climbing local of gyms and details competitions. Skiing might be the last Belgium mind to that springs country J J J - - - in M M M

y A A A g Cit M M M Cherchez un FD FD FD s southern Belgium, Belgium, southern d J J J

Zoek een golfclub mp mp embour emp ’/ T Te Te

0/32 0/32 0/32 10/50 10/50 10/50 20/68 20/68 20/68 30/86 30/86 30/86 -10/14 -10/14 -10/14 °C/°F °C/°F °C/°F Osten Lux

Brussel Climate Though mostly located in the located Though mostly follow countryside bicycle bicycle countryside follow be must you where paths cyclists. to way give to careful advice to walkers. In flat Flan walkers. to advice typically hiking routes ders, keyed to topographical hiking topographical to keyed offices, tourist by sold maps of plenty offer which can trails for afternoon rambles. rambles. afternoon for trails and signposted well are Most Sentiers de Grande Randon de Grande Sentiers née (www.grsentiers.org), shorter along with countless you’ll find various long- find various you’ll called footpaths distance Hiking Crossing club version. the French/Dutch website www.golfbelgium. website select be and Golf nu Belgium’s of find one To the use courses, golf merous

Customs Regulations

Directory A–Z 294 220V/50Hz

Electricity

295 Directory A–Z - - - -

widespread; widespread;

more than €25 more following price price following €15–€25 less than €15 less If you’ve got an unlocked an unlocked got If you’ve Worldwide travel insur travel Worldwide Although EU nationals Although EU Browse extensively on extensively Browse EATING RANGES PRICE The on the based are ranges main a typical of cost course. € €€ €€€ smartphone, you can pick pick can you smartphone, a few for SIM card up a local it with a and charge euros at a data of worth month’s under €20. speed for decent will make payments directly directly payments will make or reimburse providers to health overseas for later you expenditures. at www. is available ance lonelyplanet.com/travel- buy, can You insurance. online any and claim extend already if you’re time – even on the road. Internet Access is access Wi-fi as as well all hotels, nearly and cafes , many customer free offer bars, access. ensuring that all sports and ensuring that all sports and covered are activities as well excesses comparing Be the premiums. as just the small print. check to sure often are Multi-trip policies making if you’re value good than one annual trip. more health reciprocal qualifyfor and Luxem in Belgium care and hospitals doctors bourg, payment expect generally cover medical so up front, Make important. remains that a policy get you sure the worst for you covers and check scenario, possible plan insurance your whether planned before you took out took you planned before the insurance. rates, find the best line to ------(www. (www.phar Pharmacie de de Pharmacie apotheek/ Apotheek van Apotheek in Dutch/ insurance, and you and you insurance, ). in Dutch or in Dutch in French) At night or on weekends night or on weekends At 280 departure. Buy such insur departure. if as possible: as early ance before it the week buy you might you fly, due to are you covered not find that you’re exam for caused, delays for that had been strikes by ple, pharmacie.lu/service_de_garde) Insurance ticket your for Paying often card with a credit ac travel limited provides cident the reclaim be able to may if the operator payment a However, deliver. doesn’t policy insurance fuller travel cover to is recommended loss liability, personal theft, Many problems. and medical cancel cover also policies in travel lation or delays fall if you eg, arrangements; before days ill two seriously For minor self-limiting minor self-limiting For a might save you illnesses advice asking by fee doctor’s ( at a pharmacy pharmacie open from are Most French). 7pm Mon to about 8.30am plus Saturday Friday, to day mornings. pharmacies special ‘duty’ Use higher prices. charge find which to websites these one is open when: Pharmacies Belgian search macie.be; Wacht Garde Pharmacies Luxembourg Food the see on food more For chapter Cuisine Creative (p Health and Lux Belgium in Travel few very presents embourg The stand problems. health high; is extremely care of ard by spoken is widely English clinic and medical doctors staff. Pharmacies - Type E Type C 220V/50Hz 220V/50Hz Electricity money if visiting more than if visiting more money a or castles museums two from it online, Purchase day. museums, offices, tourist and hotels. campgrounds discounts on several others, others, on several discounts public of use plus unlimited Fam countrywide. transport adults two cover ily tickets save You’ll children. and three free admission to 76 of the of 76 to admission free attractions, top country’s

------July 11 21 July If you’re If you’re August 15 25 December 1 November ovember 11 November reverting on reverting calling from abroad, abroad, from calling eptember (Wallonia only) (Wallonia eptember According to a 2015 EU EU a 2015 to According pean Time (GMT/UTC plus Time (GMT/UTC pean moving one hour), daylight-saving one hour for in Sunday time on the last and March, in October. Sunday the last an Brussels That makes dial-out code is 00. dial-out code Phones Mobile charg no roaming are There within the EU. es the outside from travelling and most the cheapest EU, making for solution practical is usu and using data calls a chealply purchase ally to but SIM card local available that departure check before has un home network your phone. your locked Time Euro run on Central Clocks driving practices combine combine driving practices by taxing motoring make to standards. European is statis country the report, dangerous the most tically in Europe Western in place per deaths road of terms million citizens. Telephone When (+32 code dial the country +352 Luxembourg) Belgium, and the full number without drop code, area an extra Belgian ping the initial 0 for The international numbers. Community Day Community Flemish only) (Flanders Day National Belgium (Belgium) Day Assumption Day Community Francophone S 27 Day Saints’ All Day Armistice (Belgium) Day Christmas Safe Travel poorly jams, traffic Belgium’s and bad roads maintained - - 23 50 -

1 January March/April 39 days after after days 39 ) list office post ) list close on Mon close noon–2pm and and noon–2pm 1 May Day aster Sunday aster ay (Brussels region region (Brussels 8 May onday to to Monday 10am–6.30pm 8.30am–3.30pm or later or later 8.30am–3.30pm 10am–1am, but hours very very but hours 10am–1am, aturday morning aturday for closed sometimes aturday, unday (always a a (always Sunday aster Easter Monday Easter Labour Day Day only) Day Ascension E Thursday) Monday) (Whit Pentecost E after days Day National Luxembourg June (Luxembourg) an hour at lunchtime Post the postal of Websites (www. in Belgium agencies and Luxembourg .be) (www.post.lu In rates. postal and locations small dis are there Belgium in buy stamps you if counts offices Post five. of multiples within counters usually are shops. other Public Holidays Year’s New Opening Hours Opening sights Many normally Restaurants day. full days two one or close for hours Opening per week. vary cafes and bars shops, widely. Banks also some Friday, to Monday S Bars flexible Restaurants 7pm–9.30pm Shops S - - - - Both countries use the metric the metric use countries Both - (www.thebulletin.be), or bimonthly (www.thebulletin.be), date with English-language news news with English-language date required to to required (http://thewordmagazine.com), which is es (http://thewordmagazine.com), The Bulletin are pretty laid- pretty are Keep up to up to Keep cards are widely ac are cards

For extensive information information extensive For Should you be arrested be arrested Should you Internet cafes – often – often cafes Internet PRACTICALITIES Weights & Measures Weights while with commas, indicated are Decimals system. (full stops). with dots separated are thousands Media weekly The Word listings. and culture with arts pecially helpful alent but currency-exchange alent but currency-exchange rare. are offices Credit Credit prev very are ATMs cepted. soon took advantage to tie to advantage took soon himself. the knot Money sex marriage in 2015, and in 2015, marriage sex Bettel Xavier prime minister erosexual couples, including couples, erosexual and adoption. inheritance same- legalised Luxembourg since 2006 have had the have 2006 since het by enjoyed rights same been able to wed legally in legally wed been able to and 2003, since Belgium Attitudes Attitudes have couples Same-sex back. LGBT+ TravellersLGBT+ lawyers who speak multiple multiple who speak lawyers languages. public.lu is informative, while is informative, public.lu lists www.barreau.lu website tem (in French), see www. see (in French), tem For belgium.be/fr/justice. www.. Luxembourg, on the Belgian legal sys legal on the Belgian you have the right to ask for ask for the right to have you be immediate to consul your ly notified. should suffice. national identity card at all card national identity though a photocopy times, You are legally legally are You or a either a carry rare; ask at the local tourist tourist ask at the local rare; office. Legal Matters doubling as call-shops – do as call-shops doubling increasingly but are exist still

Legal Matters

Directory A–Z 296 Toilets 297 Directory A–Z -

nationals nationals A high percentage of of high percentage A Self-employed individuals Self-employed on short-term contracts in contracts on short-term register need to Belgium www.limosa.be. through workforce Luxembourg’s cross-border is made up of (www.lesfrontaliers. workers in neighbouring lu) who live countries. Work than EU, other Foreigners Swiss and EEA a permit require generally or Lux in Belgium work to issued are These embourg. authorities. the regional by search information more For Flanders, for www.werk.be for http://emploi.wallonie.be http://werk- Wallonia, economie-emploi.brussels and www. Brussels for for luxembourg.public.lu Luxembourg. staff sending or employers

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(www.visit maison du stay indefi stay (https://visit. (www.visit (http://wallonia office du tourisme

Most give away brochures brochures away give Most contacts: Useful syndicat d’initiative Visit Luxembourg Visit luxembourg.com) Visas can citizens EU nationals other many nitely; up to for visa-free enter can 90 days. in Flanders; and and in Flanders; tourisme, or and Luxembourg. Wallonia listings, and accommodation walking/cycling detailed sell products, and local maps guided arrange often and can behalf. on your tours Brussels Visit brussels/en) Flanders Visit flanders.com) Wallonia Visit belgiumtourism.co.uk) - -

dienst toerisme easily iden easily toeristische

provided for, but cafe but cafe for, provided or simply The 24-hour clock is used. clock is The 24-hour ist office known as known office ist toerisme, voor dienst Marked with an with Marked tifiable ‘i’ white-on-green town every almost symbol, tour own has its and village Tourist Information alone public toilets can be can toilets alone public find. to hard infuriatingly stations at train Facilities areas service and motorway incur a charge. often Toilets and restaurants Museums well are a leave sometimes toilets and stand- be desired, to lot New York. New hour ahead of and London of ahead hour of ahead hours six (usually) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 298

Transport

GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Land Brussels is Belgium’s most Trains are generally faster Belgium and Luxembourg globally connected airport but more expensive than are easily accessed from and the hub for the country’s buses, though price depends Europe and beyond. There biggest carrier Brussels Air- greatly on how early you are direct flights and interna- lines (www.brusselsairlines. book. If driving from the tional buses from numerous com). Charleroi airport, southeast, fill your petrol destinations and a compre- sometimes misleadingly tank in Luxembourg for low hensive rail network connect- described as Brussels-South, prices. Only in exceptional ing to locations across the attracts budget . circumstances are there continent. , home border controls at crossings Flights, car hire and tours to Luxair (www.luxair.lu), between neighbouring can be booked online at Luxembourg’s national car- countries. lonelyplanet.com/bookings. rier, has many connections to major destinations across Bus Europe. Antwerp’s small air- LONG DISTANCE Entering port offers mostly business Long-distance international shuttle flights to the UK and buses almost always require the Region Germany, while Liège and advance booking. Book as As part of the Schengen Ostend airports focus mainly far ahead as possible for the group of countries, there are on cargo plus summer char- best fares, which can be re- no passport checks on any ter flights. markable bargains. The two of the nations’ land borders. For long-haul flights it can biggest players are Eurolines If you fly in or arrive by ferry be worth comparing costs (www.eurolines.eu) and Flix- from the UK, (and with flying into neighbour- bus (www.flixbus.be), both visas, if required) need to be ing countries via , with wide networks from shown, but there is rarely any or , for Brussels and other cities, great delay if all paperwork example, then continuing on including links to Amsterdam is in order. by land. (via Antwerp), , Paris and London (via Bruges and/ or Ghent). Ecolines (www.

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater

distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the gases emitted with con- tributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel. Transport Sea 299 -

- In Belgium pay pay In Belgium , most trains are are trains most , on train on Tips: The cheapest ferry deals deals ferry cheapest The hour an around Arrive Same-day returns, returns, Same-day enormously vary can Fares ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ GETTING AROUND Bicycle Bicycle day. one journey/whole €5/8 for free travel bikes In Luxembourg permits. if space a single one-price domestic domestic a single one-price wherever system: ticket public transport by go you the price within the country, up to – €2 for is the same day. the or €4 for hours two (www.mobiliteit. Mobilitéit lu) has a handy Luxembourg planner. journey Air and short Speedy trains there that mean distances scheduled domestic no are flights. ¨ insist on you sticking to a specific sailing time. ¨ booked your before departure to allow time for security clearance. In Belgium a single national com run by (www. panyNMBS/SNCB have but buses b-rail.be) plus operators regional three private long distance a few has Luxembourg companies. Dunkerque is nearer Bel nearer is Dunkerque port is awkwardly the gium, via going so located, overall. faster prove can ¨ sometimes valid for one night and two days, can be vastly cheaper than one-way tickets. However, you MUST use the return section as planned or else you become hefty supplement a for liable that gets charged to your credit card. ¨ but usually include up to five car. per passengers

-

useful website A of research, there there research, of Quicker ways to reach the reach to ways Quicker HIGH-SPEED TRAINS HIGH-SPEED TRAINS ORDINARY expensive but taking around around but taking expensive the ferry are 90 minutes P&O run by Dover to services (www.dfdssea and DFDS sails also DFDS ways.co.uk). Dunkerque from Dover to but though hours), (two ticketing fee. ticketing Sea the time At service only one ferry was the Belgium: from operating P&O (www.po twice-weekly Zeebrugge–Hull ferries.com) overnight). hours, (14 service Channel the French use UK an around Calais, From ports. Ostend, of west drive hour’s of tunnel trains the drive-on (www.eurotunnel. Eurotunnel to 35 minutes take com) about departing Folkestone, less Usually an hour. twice Less-publicised ordinary IC ordinary Less-publicised use most run, do still trains Antwerp– fully on routes Antwerp– Amsterdam, Kortrijk/Tournai– , and Spa– , Using Liège–. with combined routes these is slower tickets domestic than cheaper but usually far for high-speed services There journeys. last-minute but if seats, assigned no are it’s ex-Belgium, purchasing booking online and worth still (or ticket own printing your app when using the e-ticket the cheeky save to available) international €6 in-station www.loco2.com and times routes comparing for tickets. and buying fast, offer High-speed trains between connections easy and to and London, Brussels Dutch French, the broader but networks, and German seat require such trains prove and can reservations is high. if demand expensive discounts Advance-purchase though you’ll be massive, can the right to usually forfeit changes.

- - - - rule Belgian Belgian An invaluable motorways, so Luxembourg’s joint joint Luxembourg’s uropean train trips. train uropean resources include the resources priorité à droite à priorité City centres in most Be aware that, as in France, Most car-hire companies companies car-hire Most There’s no problem problem no There’s Northern Europe is one ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ REGIONAL railway-bus network. railway-bus www.seat61.com when advice of compendium planning E following: www.b-europe.com site. international Railways’ www.cfl.lu Ideally park outside and and outside park Ideally in. shuttle Train Useful ¨ larger Flemish cities are pedestrianisedincreasingly and can be awkward if not motorists. for inaccessible the gives right of way to vehicles emerging from the right even from a small side lane, unless otherwise indicated. taking their car into Belgium, conditions rental check but before you do so. ¨ registration papers and valid insurance (‘Green Card’). ¨ in other EU nations won’t have a problem with you from anywhere. from ¨ into vehicles foreign bringing Belgium, provided you have Belgium is easily accessed easily is Belgium Car & Motorcycle & Car ¨ vast web of services, such as De Panne/ such as De services, and -Dunkerque most Used Tilburg-Turnhout. rarely are these locals, ly by visitors. to publicised well A few local and city bus com and city local few A cross-border operate panies long-distance airport shut airport long-distance and Charleroi between tles with airports Luxembourg Bas in Namur, handy stops togne and Arlon. European destinations. IC destinations. European has a Bus (www.bahn.com) Liège–Maastricht– two-hour Flibco service. Düsseldorf runs (www.flibco.com) ecolines.net) specialises in specialises ecolines.net) Eastern and Baltic mostly ------high % (

www.delijn.be/

De Lijn De to be slow and be slow to (€3.50) allows transfers transfers allows (€3.50) C-Zone), allowing trans allowing C-Zone), TE (€2.50) allows travel within within travel allows (€2.50) (www.infotec.be) buses have have buses (www.infotec.be) . When purchased aboard, aboard, When purchased . Passes offering unlim offering Passes Bus frequency is highest is highest Bus frequency C network, except for express express for except C network, com/ within 60 minutes. fers Horizon whole on the within 90 minutes TE buses. by texting ‘DL’ to 4884 (from a 4884 (from to ‘DL’ texting by SIM card). Belgian travel bus and tram ited cost in Flanders anywhere one/three/five for €6/12/17 The one-day days. calendar on be purchased can pass €8/4), (adult/child board a 24-hour get can or you smartphone: €6 by M-Pass by or €6.15 the app, through 4884. DLD to texting Wallonia TEC types: single-ticket basic three Next (https://tinyurl. area a two-zone on school days. Fewer oper Fewer days. on school while Sun Saturday, on ate or be scant can services day bus rural Some nonexistent. at all during operate don’t es (including the holidays school whole July of and August). Flanders are networks Bus and tram by operated 070-220200; toll en) costs single ticket virtually any are or above €20 of €3 (notes buses express accepted; not more). cost and 179 178 68, if pur cheaper are Tickets smartphone: €1.80 by chased Lijn app or €2.15using the De Bus bus jour Longer-distance tend neys bus and Where circuitous. the same link options train the bus is usually cities, two In slower. but far cheaper is valid a single ticket Belgium an hour up to for transfers for validation the ticket’s after Hori TEC for 90 minutes (or long the plus however zon), In takes. ride your final leg of are buses areas rural some must you so on-demand only, vary). (details phone ahead - - short- (www.

Namur and Liège Namur and Liège 1/2/3/4hr hires hires 1/2/3/4hr

Mobit To start,To use a credit card receiveYou’ll a swipe card When returning a bike, Download the app, which If you arrive at a full stand ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ Antwerp, Antwerp, passenger short-hop have stretches on limited services like trips, Other boat river. of run, the Bruges–Damme as a tour be taken to tend than as transport. rather bike (not uncommon on on uncommon (not bike Saturday nights in popular your enter areas), nightlife code and you should get an extra five minutes to find an alternative. Mechelen and In Hasselt, Kortrijk, mobit.eu; €1.35/3.30/5.70/8.70) a QR-coded use hop bikes activated system key-release smartphone using the by is debited account Your app. usage. of minutes per 20 Boat ¨ to buy a membership or day online. usually pass, ¨ or PIN code that releases a bike when you need one. ¨ double-check that the return has been registered to avoid charges. If there is a hitch the phone returning, when helpline immediately. ¨ gives real-time info as to which stands are full or empty. ¨ and so can’t drop off the want to ride around town town ride around to want all day. - -

Not a legal a legal Not MOBIB card is an electronic purse akin to the Oys the akin to purse electronic is an card MOBIB City bikes and electric and electric bikes City Anonymous MOBIB Basic cards(€5, valid five years) A personalised MOBIB is valid on all three of Belgium’s ¨ ¨ MOBIB ¨ are worth buying if you’ll make more than 10 rides on STIB transport (in Brussels) or TEC buses (Wallonia). There are two types: two are There ¨ bus-tram networks and onBelgian trains. Soon all season tickets will require one. The Nether in the OV-Chipkaart or the in London terCard public transport. for payment contactless allowing lands, rapidly on your credit card: card: credit on your rapidly if you changing bikes keep so minimal or nil, but if you keep keep but if you minimal or nil, accrue fees longer, the bike long as you return it within return long as you are charges hire 30 minutes, stand, ride towards your your ride towards stand, at it off then drop destination As stand. empty the nearest schemes. Grab a bicycle a bicycle Grab schemes. automated the nearest from Several cities including cities Several and Luxembourg Brussels, bike-hop operate Antwerp Short-Hop Short-Hop Hire Bicycle the same station. the same few bigger city stations (two (two stations city bigger few per member is pos bicycles to the bike(s) Return sible). 24-hour hires for €1.15 at for hires 24-hour in a or €3.15 outlets, most major station outlets during outlets major station €18.30. for hours working make can a member you As vance, though if you can’t, it’s it’s can’t, though if you vance, 20 join at around to possible €12 per year and you should and you €12 per year in ad sign up well ideally members-only Blue Bike Blue Bike members-only (www.blue-bike.be). scheme costs membership Online some park-and-ride car car park-and-ride some the good-value, use parks) While some train stations stations train While some ‘manually’, bicycles rent (plus 50 in Belgium around Belgium’s Blue Bikes Blue Belgium’s many cities: for Belgium, www. Belgium, for cities: many useful many gives fietspunten.be contacts. Rental in be hired easily can bikes requirement for cyclists and and cyclists for requirement adults. by worn not generally Bike helmets Bike

Boat

Transport 300 301 Transport Car & Motorcycle ournai* FRENCH Namur* Nivelles* Mons* Paris Roulers La Haye T Trèves Furnes Ypres Aix-la-Chapelle Anvers Bruges Bruxelles* Courtrai * Louvain Lille Malines can be very confusing confusing be very can for seniors 65), (over Check online first for for first online Check priced are tickets Single For under-26s, a Go-Pass 7pm from weekends on ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ getting back by Sunday night costs 75% of the price of two less. or singles ¨ who pay just €6 for a return ¨ specials. advance-purchase ¨ by kilometre, but there’s a trains, for fee higher pre-reserved. be must which ¨ 1 costs€6.40 and allows any Belgium. within trip one-way Pay €52 for 10 tickets or €8.20 for one that adds in Maastricht or Roosendaal Netherlands.the normally are tickets Return singles of the price twice except: ¨ Friday, when a return ticket - rier - DUTCH T Veurne* Ieper* Brussel* Kortrijk* Geldenaken Keulen Leuven* Rijsel Mechelen* Namen Nijvel Parijs * Haag* Den Doornik Aken Antwerpen* Brugge* efficient efficient and Luxem (www.cfl.lu). CFL achen* (G) rier* (G) ournai PLACE NAMES PLACE ENGLISH OR OTHER OR ENGLISH T Veurne Ypres Brussels Courtrai Jodoigne (G) Köln*/Cologne Leuven/Louvain Lille* (F) Mechelen/Mechlin Namur Nivelles Mons (F) Paris* Roeselare (N) T A Antwerp Bruges Tickets should be pre- ¨ * Name as used locally; (F) place is in France; (G) place is in place (G) is in France; (F) place locally; * Name as used is in the Netherlands (N) place Germany; Frequently, road signs in Belgium give only the Dutch or only the Dutch give signs in Belgium road Frequently, This names. town of rendering French of: be aware to ones key Some foreigners. for purchased at ticket offices ticket at purchased or ticket machines, or online (website or Buying app). once aboard will incur a €7 surcharge. Local Transport have cities Major – mostly transport public and metro but also buses Ant and in Brussels trams run all don’t Services werp. night. Train run are trains Belgium’s (www. NMBS/SNCB by belgianrail.be), by bourg’s Tips Ticket ¨ ------

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Transport 302 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 303

Language

Belgium’s population is split between ‘schwetz dear anglish’) meaning ‘Do you Dutch-speaking Flanders in the north, speak English?’ French-speaking Wallonia in the south, and the small German-speaking region, known as the Eastern Cantons, based around the DUTCH towns of Eupen and St Vith in the east. Brus- The pronunciation of Dutch is fairly straight- sels is officially bilingual though French has forward. The language does distinguish be- long been the city’s dominant language. tween long and short vowels, which can af- The Dutch spoken in Belgium is also called fect the meaning of words; for example, man ‘Flemish’, underlining the cultural identity of (man) and maan (moon). Also note that aw is the . The grammar and spell- pronounced as in ‘law’, eu as the ‘u’ in ‘nurse’, ing rules of and in the Neth- ew as the ‘ee’ in ‘see’ (with rounded lips), oh erlands are the same, and ‘Flemish’(Vlaams) as the ‘o’ in ‘note’, öy as the ‘er y’ (without the is not a separate language in itself. ‘r’) in ‘her year’, and uh as in ‘ago’. Visitors’ attempts to speak French in The consonants are pretty simple to pro- Flanders are generally considered culturally nounce too. Note that kh is a throaty sound, insensitive and ill-informed, especially in less similar to the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch, r is tourist-oriented cities such as Leuven and trilled – both may require a bit of practice – Hasselt. English, on the other hand, is con- and zh is pronounced as the ‘s’ in ‘pleasure’. sidered neutral and quite acceptable – many If you read our coloured pronunciation Flemish speak English fluently. guides as if they were English, you’ll be un- Luxembourg has three official languages: derstood just fine. The stressed syllables are French, German and Letzeburgesch. Most indicated with italics. people are fluent in all three as well as in Eng- Where relevant, both polite and informal lish, which is widely spoken in the capital and options in Dutch are included, indicated with by younger people around the countryside. ‘pol’ and ‘inf’ respectively. Letzeburgesch is most closely related to German and was proclaimed the national tongue in 1984. Luxembourgers speak Letze- burgesch to each other but generally switch Basics to French when talking to foreigners. A couple Hello. Dag./Hallo. dakh/ha·loh of Letzeburgesch words often overheard are moien (good morning/hello), äddi (goodbye) Goodbye. Dag. dakh and wann ech gelifft (please). Like French Yes. Ja. yaa speakers, Luxembourgers say merci for ‘thank you’. A phrase that might come in use- No. Nee. ney ful is Schwatzt dir Englesch? (pronounced Please. Alstublieft. (pol) al·stew·bleeft Alsjeblieft. (inf) a·shuh·bleeft WANT MORE? Thank you. Dank u/je. (pol/inf) dangk ew/yuh For in-depth language information and You’re Graag gedaan. khraakh khuh·daan handy phrases, check out Lonely Plan- welcome. et’s Phrasebook. You’ll Excuse me. Excuseer mij. eks·kew·zeyr mey find it atshop.lonelyplanet.com , or How are you? you can buy Lonely Planet’s Fast Talk Hoe gaat het hoo khaat huht app at the Apple App Store. met u/jou? (pol/inf) met ew/yaw 304 Fine. And you? Can you show me (on the map)? Goed. khoot Kunt u het mij kunt ew huht mey En met u/jou? (pol/inf) en met ew/yaw tonen (op de kaart)? toh·nuhn (op duh kaart) What’s your name? Hoe heet u/je? (pol/inf) hoo heyt ew/yuh My name is … Eating & Drinking LANGUAGE Ik heet … ik heyt … What would you recommend? Do you speak English? Wat kan u wat kan ew Spreekt u Engels? spreykt ew eng·uhls aanbevelen? aan·buh·vey·luhn I don’t understand. What’s in that dish?

wat zit uhr in dat ik buh·khreyp huht neet Wat zit er in dat Ik begrijp het niet.  DUTCH gerecht? khuh·rekht I’d like the menu, please. Accommodation Ik wil graag een menu. ik wil khraakh uhn me·new Do you have Heeft u een …? heyft ew uhn … Delicious! a … room? Heerlijk!/Lekker! heyr·luhk/le·kuhr double tweepersoons- twey·puhr·sohns· Cheers! kamer met kaa·muhr met Proost! prohst een dubbel bed uhn du·buhl bet Please bring the bill. single éénpersoons- eyn·puhr·sohns· Mag ik de rekening makh ik duh rey·kuh·ning kamer kaa·muhr alstublieft? al·stew·bleeft twin tweepersoons- twey·puhr·sohns· kamer met kaa·muhr met I’d like to Ik wil graag ik wil khraakh lits jumeaux lee zhew·moh reserve a een tafel uhn taa·fuhl for … voor … vohr … reserveren. rey·ser·vey·ruhn How much is Hoeveel kost hoo·veyl kost it per …? het per …? huht puhr … (eight) (acht) uur (akht) ewr o’clock night nacht nakht (two) people (twee) (twey) person persoon puhr·sohn personen puhr·soh·nuhn

Is breakfast included? Is het ontbijt is huht ont·beyt I don’t eat … Ik eet geen … ik eyt kheyn … inbegrepen? in·buh·khrey·puhn eggs eieren ey·yuh·ruhn fish vis vis bathroom badkamer bat·kaa·muhr (red) meat (rood) vlees (roht) vleys bed and gasten- khas·tuhn· nuts noten noh·tuhn breakfast kamer kaa·muhr campsite camping kem·ping bar bar bar guesthouse pen·syon beer bier beer hotel hotel hoh·tel bottle fles fles window raam raam bread brood broht youth hostel jeugdherberg yeukht·her·berkh breakfast ontbijt ont·beyt cafe café ka·fey Directions cheese kaas kaas Where’s the …? Waar is …? waar is … Question Words – Dutch How far is it? How? Hoe? hoo Hoe ver is het? hoo ver is huht What? Wat? wat What’s the address? When? Wanneer? wa·neyr Wat is het adres? wat is huht a·dres Where? Waar? waar Can you please write it down? Kunt u dat alstublieft kunt ew dat al·stew·bleeft Who? Wie? wee opschrijven? op·skhrey·vuhn Why? Waarom? waa·rom 305 sugar suiker söy·kuhr Numbers – Dutch tea thee tey één eyn 1 vegetables groenten khroon·tuhn twee twey 2 vegetarian vegetarisch vey·khey·taa·ris drie dree 3 water water waa·tuhr

vier veer LANGUAGE 4 wine wijn weyn 5 vijf veyf with met met 6 zes zes without zonder zon·duhr 7 zeven zey·vuhn 

8 acht akht DUTCH 9 negen ney·khuhn Emergencies 10 tien teen Help! 20 twintig twin·tikh Help! help 30 dertig der·tikh Leave me alone! Laat me met rust! laat muh met rust 40 veertig feyr·tikh 50 vijftig feyf·tikh I’m lost. Ik ben verdwaald. ik ben vuhr·dwaalt 60 zestig ses·tikh There’s been an accident. 70 zeventig sey·vuhn·tikh Er is een ongeluk uhr is uhn on·khuh·luk 80 tachtig takh·tikh gebeurd. khuh·beurt 90 negentig ney·khuhn·tikh Call a doctor! Bel een dokter! bel uhn dok·tuhr 100 honderd hon·duhrt 1000 duizend döy·zuhnt Call the police! Bel de politie! bel duh poh·leet·see I’m sick. coffee koffie ko·fee Ik ben ziek. ik ben zeek koud kawt cold Where are the toilets? dinner avondmaal aa·vont·maal Waar zijn de toiletten? waar zeyn duh twa·le·tuhn drink list drankkaart drang·kaart I’m allergic to (antibiotics). eggs eieren ey·yuh·ruhn Ik ben allergisch voor ik ben a·ler·khees vohr (antibiotica). (an·tee·bee·yoh·tee·ka) fish vis vis fork vork vork fruit fruit fröyt Shopping & Services glass glas khlas I’d like to buy … grocery store kruidenier kröy·duh·neer Ik wil graag … kopen. ik wil khraakh … koh·puhn hot heet heyt I’m just looking. juice sap sap Ik kijk alleen maar. ik keyk a·leyn maar knife mes mes Can I look at it? Kan ik het even zien? kan ik huht ey·vuhn zeen lunch middagmaal mi·dakh·maal Do you have any others? market markt markt Heeft u nog andere? heyft ew nokh an·duh·ruh meat vlees vleys How much is it? menu menu me·new Hoeveel kost het? hoo·veyl kost huht milk melk melk That’s too expensive. plate bord bort Dat is te duur. dat is tuh dewr pub kroeg krookh Can you lower the price? Kunt u wat van de kunt ew wat van duh restaurant res·toh·rant prijs afdoen? preys af·doon rice rijst reyst There’s a mistake in the bill. salt zout zawt Er zit een fout in de uhr zit uhn fawt in duh rekening. rey·kuh·ning spicy pikant pee·kant spoon lepel ley·puhl ATM pin-automaat pin·aw·toh·maat 306 foreign wisselkantoor wi·suhl·kan·tohr exchange Signs – Dutch post office postkantoor post·kan·tohr Dames Women shopping winkel- wing·kuhl· Gesloten Closed centre centrum sen·trum Heren Men

LANGUAGE tourist office VVV vey·vey·vey Ingang Entrance Inlichtingen Information Open Time & Dates Open Toiletten Toilets What time is it?  DUTCH Hoe laat is het? hoo laat is huht Uitgang Exit It’s (10) o’clock. Verboden Prohibited Het is (tien) uur. huht is (teen) ewr Half past (10). What time does it leave? Half (elf). (lit: half eleven) half (elf) Hoe laat vertrekt het? hoo laat vuhr·trekt huht Does it stop at …? am (morning) ’s ochtends sokh·tuhns Stopt het in …? stopt huht in … pm (afternoon) ’s middags smi·dakhs What’s the next stop? Welk is de volgende welk is duh vol·khuhn·duh pm (evening) ’s avonds saa·vonts halte? hal·tuh gisteren khis·tuh·ruhn yesterday I’d like to get off at … today vandaag van·daakh Ik wil graag in … ik wil khraak in … tomorrow morgen mor·khuhn uitstappen. öyt·sta·puhn Is this taxi available? Monday maandag maan·dakh Is deze taxi vrij? is dey·zuh tak·see vrey Tuesday dinsdag dins·dakh Please take me to … Breng me alstublieft breng muh al·stew·bleeft Wednesday woensdag woons·dakh naar … naar … Thursday donderdag don·duhr·dakh Friday vrijdag vrey·dakh I’d like … Ik wil graag … ik wil khraakh … Saturday zaterdag zaa·tuhr·dakh my bicycle mijn fiets meyn feets Sunday zondag zon·dakh repaired laten laa·tuhn herstellen her·ste·luhn to hire a een fiets uhn feets Transport bicycle huren hew·ruhn Is this the … Is dit de … naar is dit duh … naar to (the left (de linker- (duh ling·kuhr· I’d like to hire Ik wil graag ik wil khraakh bank)? oever)? oo·vuhr) a … een … huren. uhn … hew·ruhn ferry veerboot veyr·boht basket mandje man·chuh metro metro mey·troh child seat kinderzitje kin·duhr·zi·chuh tram tram trem helmet helm helm platform perron pe·ron timetable dienst- deenst· Do you have bicycle parking? regeling rey·khuh·ling Heeft u parking voor heyft ew par·king vohr fietsen? feet·suhn When’s the … Hoe laat gaat hoo laat khaat Can we get there by bike? Kunnen we er met ku·nuhn wuh uhr met (bus)? de … (bus)? duh … (bus) de fiets heen? duh feets heyn first eerste eyr·stuh I have a puncture. last laatste laat·stuh Ik heb een lekke band. ik hep uhn le·kuh bant next volgende vol·khun·duh bicycle path fietspad feets·pat A ticket to …, please. bicycle fietsen- feet·suhn· Een kaartje naar uhn kaar·chuh naar repairman maker maa·kuhr … graag. … khraakh bicycle stand fietsenrek feet·suhn·rek 307 FRENCH I don’t understand. Je ne comprends pas. zher ner kom·pron pa The sounds used in spoken French can al- most all be found in English. There are a cou- ple of exceptions: nasal vowels (represented in our pronunciation guides by o or u followed Accommodation

by an almost inaudible nasal consonant Do you have any rooms available? LANGUAGE sound m, n or ng), the ‘funny’ u (ew in our Est-ce que vous avez es·ker voo za·vay guides) and the deep-in-the-throat r. Bearing des chambres libres? day shom·brer lee·brer these few points in mind and reading our pronunciation guides below as if they were How much is it per night/person? English, you won’t have problems being un- Quel est le prix kel ay ler pree  derstood. Note that syllables are for the most par nuit/personne? par nwee/per·son FRENCH part equally stressed in French. Is breakfast included? In this chapter both masculine and femine Est-ce que le petit es·ker ler per·tee forms are provided where necessary, sepa- déjeuner est inclus? day·zher·nay ayt en·klew rated by a slash and indicated with ‘m/f’. campsite camping kom·peeng dorm dortoir dor·twar Basics guesthouse pension pon·syon Hello. Bonjour. bon·zhoor hotel hôtel o·tel Goodbye. Au revoir. o·rer·vwa youth auberge o·berzh Excuse me. Excusez-moi. ek·skew·zay·mwa hostel de jeunesse der zher·nes Sorry. Pardon. par·don Yes. Oui. wee a … room une chambre … ewn shom·brer … No. Non. non double avec un a·vek un Please. S’il vous plaît. seel voo play grand lit gron lee Thank you. Merci. mair·see single à un lit a un lee You’re De rien. der ree·en twin avec des lits a·vek day lee welcome. jumeaux zhew·mo

How are you? with (a)… avec … a·vek … Comment allez-vous? ko·mon ta·lay·voo air-con climatiseur klee·ma·tee·zer Fine, and you? bathroom une salle de ewn sal der Bien, merci. Et vous? byun mair·see ay voo bains bun You’re welcome. window fenêtre fer·nay·trer De rien. der ree·en My name is … Je m’appelle … zher ma·pel … Directions What’s your name? Where’s …? Comment vous ko·mon voo· Où est …? oo ay … appelez-vous? za·play voo What’s the address? Do you speak English? Quelle est l’adresse? kel ay la·dres Parlez-vous anglais? par·lay·voo ong·glay Could you write the address, please? Est-ce que vous pourriez es·ker voo poo·ryay écrire l’adresse, ay·kreer la·dres s’il vous plaît? seel voo play Question Words – French Can you show me (on the map)? How? Comment? ko·mon Pouvez-vous m’indiquer poo·vay·voo mun·dee·kay (sur la carte)? (sewr la kart) What? Quoi? kwa When? Quand? kon Where? Où? oo Eating & Drinking Who? Qui? kee What would you recommend? Why? Pourquoi? poor·kwa Qu’est-ce que vous kes·ker voo conseillez? kon·say·yay 308 What’s in that dish? Quels sont les kel son lay Numbers – French ingrédients? zun·gray·dyon 1 un un I’m a vegetarian. 2 deux der Je suis végétarien/ zher swee vay·zhay·ta·ryun/ végétarienne. (m/f) vay·zhay·ta·ryen 3 trois trwa LANGUAGE I don’t eat … 4 quatre ka·trer Je ne mange pas … zher ner monzh pa … 5 cinq sungk Cheers! 6 six sees Santé! son·tay 7 sept set

.That was delicious  FRENCH huit weet C’était délicieux! say·tay day·lee·syer 8 neuf nerf Please bring the bill. 9 Apportez-moi a·por·tay·mwa 10 dix dees l’addition, la·dee·syon 20 vingt vung s’il vous plaît. seel voo play 30 trente tront 40 quarante ka·ront I’d like to Je voudrais zher voo·dray reserve a réserver une ray·zair·vay ewn 50 cinquante sung·kont table for … table pour … ta·bler poor … 60 soixante swa·sont (eight) (vingt) heures (vungt) er 70 soixante-dix swa·son·dees

o’clock 80 quatre-vingts ka·trer·vung (deux) (der) (two) 90 quatre-vingt-dix ka·trer·vung·dees people personnes pair·son 100 cent son appetiser entrée on·tray 1000 mille meel beer bière bee·yair In Francophone Belgium, though not in bottle bouteille boo·tay Luxembourg, the numbers 70 and 90 bread pain pun are septante and nonante respectively. breakfast petit per·tee déjeuner day·zher·nay market marché mar· cheese fromage fro·mazh menu carte kart (in English) (en anglais) (on ong·glay) children’s menu pour mer·new menu enfants poor on·fon milk lait lay coffee café ka·fay plate assiette a·syet cold froid frwa red wine vin rouge vun roozh delicatessen traiteur tray·ter rice riz ree dinner dîner dee·nay salt sel sel dish plat pla spoon cuillère kwee·yair egg œuf erf sugar sew·krer food nourriture noo·ree·tewr tea thé tay fork fourchette foor·shet vegetable légume lay·gewm glass verre vair (mineral) eau (minérale) o (mee·nay·ral) water grocery store épicerie ay·pees·ree white wine vin blanc vun blong highchair chaise haute shay zot wine list carte des vins kart day vun hot chaud sho with avec a·vek (orange) juice jus (d’orange) zhew (do·ronzh) without sans son knife couteau koo·to local spécialité spay·sya·lee·tay speciality locale lo·kal lunch déjeuner day·zher·nay Emergencies Help! plat principal pla prun·see·pal main course Au secours! o skoor LANGUAGE  FRENCH 309

·mee·dee

monsh

ba·to bews a·vyon trun

ma·tun a·pray swar yair o·zhoor·dwee der·mun lun·dee mar·dee mair·krer·dee zher·dee von·drer·dee sam·dee dee· kart der kray·dee kart see·bair·ka·fay der post bew·ro o·fees der too·rees·mer

zher voo·dray a·lay a … es·kil sa·ret a … a kel er es poo·vay·voo mer deer kon kel er ay til il ay (weet) er il ay (deez) er ay day·mee kil par/a·reev noo za·ree·von a … zher ver day·son·drer

de poste

carte decrédit cybercafé bureau de office tourisme bateau bus avion train mercredi après-midi demain hier jeudi samedi matin mardi lundi soir dimanche vendredi aujourd’hui

ee·see

tomorrow Monday Sunday card credit cafe internet office post office tourist Time & Dates What time is it? Quelle heure est-il? o’clock. (eight) It’s Il est (huit) heures. (10). half past It’s heuresIl est (dix) et demie. Can you tell me when we get to …? to get we when me tell you Can Pouvez-vous me dire quand nous arrivons à …? here. off get to want I Je veux descendre ici. Transport boat bus plane train … to go to want I Je voudrais aller à … at …? it stop Does Est-ce qu’il s’arrête à …? it leave/arrive? what time does At est-ce heure quelle À qu’il part/arrive? morning afternoon evening yesterday today Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday

don

a …

gee·shay o·to·ma·teek der bonk zheek Exit Toilets Entrance Women Closed Men Prohibited Open Information

ler vwar

eel ya ewn ay·rer don la not ser·la ner mer play pa say kom·byun say tro shair voo poo·vay bay·say ler pree zher voo·dray ash·tay … es·ker zher per zher rer·gard zher swee ma·lad zhay ewn doo·ler ee·see zher swee fee·shay·mwa la pay fee·shay·mwa eel ya ew un ak·see· a·play un mayd·sun a·play la po·lees zhe swee·pair·dew

automatique banque de guichet

za·lair·

…

à

(m/f)

Renseignements Sortie Toilettes/WC Fermé Hommes Interdit Ouvert Signs – French Entrée Femmes ATM Vous pouvez baisser prix? le in the bill. a mistake There’s Il y a une erreur dans la note. C’est combien? C’est expensive. too It’s C’est trop cher. the price? lower you Can Je regarde. it. like I don’t Cela ne me plaît pas. is it? much How peux le voir? just looking. I’m J’ai uneJ’ai douleur ici. Appelez la police. ill. I’m Je suis malade. here. It hurts Call a doctor. Appelez un médecin. Call the police. Je voudraisacheter … at it? I look May je que Est-ce Shopping & Services … buy to like I’d I’m allergic to … to allergic I’m Je suis allergique Il y a eu un accident. perdue. perdue. alone! me Leave Fichez-moi la paix! been an accident. There’s I’m lost. I’m Je suis perdu/

ewn vwa·tewr ewn ewn mo·to sta·syon·ser·vees syezh·on·fon dyay·zel kask may·ka·nee·syun ay·sons

say la root poor … (kom·byun der tom) es·ker zher per sta·syo·nay ee·see la vwa·tewr/mo·to ay tom·bay on pan (a …) mom pner ay ta pla zher swee zon pan day·sons zhay per·dew lay klay der ma vwa·tewr

une moto une voiture siège-enfant casque mécanicien station-service

diesel essence

car station motorcycle child seat diesel helmet mechanic petrol stationner ici? stationner …). (at down has broken The car/motorbike La voiture/moto est tombée en panne …). (à a flat tyre. I have Mon pneu est à plat. petrol. run out of I’ve Je suis en panne d’essence. keys. car my lost I’ve perduJ’ai les clés de ma voiture. service …? to Is this the road C’est la route pour …? here? long) Can I park (How temps) de (Combien Est-ce que je peux

shay way … prer·myay dair·nyay pro·shun un kat·kat un vay·lo der prem·yair der der·zyem sum·pler a·lay ay rer·toor o·rair gar ko·tay fe·ne·trer zher voo·dray loo· ko·tay kool·war a·new·lay on rer·tar kay gee· un bee·yay …

klas las

de première de de deuxième deuxième de un vélo un quatre- quatre aller et retour classe classe en retard louer … côté fenêtre Je voudrais côté couloir annulé quai un billet … prochain premier dernier gare guichet

simple horaire

1st-class bicycle hire a … hire 4WD to like I’d train seat window timetable platform platform office ticket cancelled delayed aisle seat one-way return 2nd-class

ticket a … last next first

FRENCH 

LANGUAGE 310 311 GLOSSARY

Nl/Fr after a term signifies centrum (Nl) – centre GR (Fr) – long-distance Dutch/French. chambre (Fr) – room footpaths grand café (Fr) – opulent chambre d’hôte (Fr) – B&B LANGUAGE abdij/abbaye (Nl/Fr) – abbey guesthouse historic café apotheek (Nl) – pharmacy Charles Quint – Holy Roman gratis/gratuit (Nl/Fr) – free ARAU (Fr) – Atelier de Emperor Charles V grotte (Fr) – cave, grotto Recherche et d’Action Urbaine château (Fr) – castle,

 Urban Research & Action Group) country mansion hallen/halles (Nl/Fr) – covered) GLOSSARY auberge de jeunesse (Fr) – chocolatier (Fr) – chocolate- market youth hostel maker herberg (Nl) – old-style Flemish commune (Fr) – pub bakker/bakkerij (Nl) – baker/ couvent (Fr) – convent hof (Nl) – garden cuistax – see kwistax holebi – LGBT (homosexual- balle-pelotte – Belgian ball lesbian-bisexual) game dagschotel (Nl) – dish of the Holy – Germanic begijn/béguine (Nl/Fr) – day empire (962–1806) that was inhabitant of a begijnhof demi-pension (Fr) – half board confusingly neither theocratic begijnhof/béguinage (Nl/ (ie accommodation, breakfast nor predominantly Italian/ Fr) – community of begijnen/ and dinner) Roman for most of its history béguines; cluster of cottages, dentelle (Fr) – lace hôpital (Fr) – hospital often around a central garden dienst voor toerisme (Nl) – horeca (Fr/Nl) – the hospitality Belasting Toegevoegde Waarde tourist office (hotel-restaurant-cafe) industry (BTW) (Nl) – value-added tax, hôtel (Fr) – hotel, historic town VAT église (Fr) – church house Belgische Spoorwegen (Nl) – entrée (Fr) – entry hôtel de ville (Fr) – town hall Belgian Railways estaminet (Fr) – tavern Benelux – Belgium, the Institutions Européennes (Fr) – (Fr) – pond Netherlands and étang EU Institutions EU – Luxembourg ISIC – International Student benzine (Nl) – petrol Eurocrat – EU administrative Identity Card betalend parkeren (Nl) – paid official street parking Europese Instellingen (Nl) – EU jardin (Fr) – garden Institutions biljart/billard (Nl/Fr) – billiards jenever – (Nl) Flemish/Dutch billet (Fr) – ticket gin fiets (Nl) – bicycle boulangerie (Fr) – bakery jeu-de-balle (F) – see frieten/frites (Nl/Fr) – chips (Fr) – post balle-pelotte BP (boîte postale) or fries office box jeugdherberg (Nl) – youth frituur/friture/ (Nl/Fr/ (Fr) – brewery; café/ hostel Fr) – chip shop restaurant often serving food all day kaartje (Nl) – ticket galerij/galerie (Nl/Fr) – covered (Fr) – bric-a-brac kamer (Nl) – room brocante shopping centre/ brouwerij (Nl) – brewery kant (Nl) – lace gare (Fr) – train station brown café – small, old- kasteel (Nl) – castle gastenkamer (Nl) – B&B/ fashioned pub with wooden- guesthouse kerk (Nl) – church panelled interior gaufres (Fr) – kwistax – pedal-carts popular bruine kroeg (Nl) – brown café on Belgian beaches gemeente (Nl) – municipality Brusselaar (Nl) – inhabitant of Gille (Fr) – folkloric character Brussels magasin de nuit (Fr) – 24-hour typical of the Binche carnival Bruxellois (Fr) – inhabitant of shop gîtes d’étapes (Fr) – rural group Brussels; name of the city’s old marché aux puces (Fr) – flea accommodation, sometimes also dialect market a hostel bureau d’échange (Fr) – markt/marché (Nl/Fr) – market foreign-exchange bureau gîtes ruraux (Fr) – countryside guesthouses menu (Nl & Fr) – fixed-price meal with two or more courses (Nl) – almshouse café – pub, bar godshuis (what is called the menu in carte (Fr) – menu English is the kaart/la carte) 312

menu du jour (Fr) – fixed-price, plat du jour (Fr) – dish of the de Bruxelles (Brussels Public multicourse meal of the day day Transport Company) molen/ (Nl/Fr) – plein (Nl) – square syndicat d’initiative (Fr) – windmill poort/porte (Nl/Fr) – gate in tourist office Mosan – from the River city wall valley (Fr) – visitors’ tax LANGUAGE premetro – trams that go taxe de séjour musée (Fr) – museum underground for part of their terreinfiets (Nl) – mountain journey (found in Brussels and bike nachtwinkel (Nl) – 24-hour shop Antwerp) toeristische dienst (Nl) – NATO – North Atlantic Treaty prior[itaire] (Fr) – priority tourist office

Organisation priorité à droite (Fr) – priority- toneel/théâtre (Nl/Fr) – theatre  GLOSSARY headquartered in Brussels to-the-right traffic rule toren/tour (Nl/Fr) – tower (NAVO/OTAN in Dutch/French) trekkershut (Nl) – hikers’ hut NMBS (Nl) – Belgian National RACB (Fr) – Royal Automobile tuin (Nl) – garden Railways Club de Belgique TVA (Fr) – value-added tax, VAT routier (Fr) – trucker (also office de tourisme (Fr) – tourist truckers’ restaurant) (Fr) – bicycle office vélo VO (version originale) (Fr) – oude (Nl) – old SHAPE – NATO’s ‘Supreme HQ nondubbed film OV (originele versie) (Nl) – Allied Powers Europe’ near Mons voorrang van rechts (Nl) – nondubbed (ie movie shown in slijterij (Nl) – shop selling priority-to-the-right traffic rule its original language) strong alcohol VTT (vélo tout-terrain) (Fr) – SNCB (Fr) – Belgian National mountain bike pâtisserie (Fr) – cakes and Railways pastries; shop selling them sortie (Fr) – exit wassalon (Nl) – laundrette pékèt – Walloon for jenever stad (Nl) – town weekend gastronomique (Fr) – pension complète (Fr) – full stadhuis (Nl) – town hall accommodation plus breakfast board stadsbelasting (Nl) – city tax and some meals pharmacie (Fr) – pharmacy stationnement payant (Fr) – pitas (Fr) – stuffed pitta bread paid parking ziekenhuis (Nl) – hospital place (Fr) – square STIB (Fr) – Société des Intercommunaux ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 313

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in Brussels, and to EU expert Andrew Gray. Plus all OUR READERS my friends in Brussels for their advice, ideas and Many thanks to the travellers who used the last support. edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Anna Richardson, Regis St Louis Beth Kriebel, Gabriella Sonnifero, Gaetano Lapenta, I’m grateful to many people who offered insight into Manuel Francisco Rodriguez Góme, Richard Lemon, one of Belgium’s most fascinating regions. I’d like Steve Douglas, William Ballantine to thank Myriam and Yves in , Laura in Waterloo, Anna in Mons, Ariane at Frasnes-lez- Anvaing and Paule at the Lac de l’Eau d’Heure. Warm WRITER THANKS thanks to Cassandra and our daughters, Magdalena Mark Elliott and Genevieve, who joined me on the great south Endless thanks to ever-inspiring Sally Cobham for Belgium . love, company and great insights. Many thanks also to old Belgian friends Wieland, Guy and Danielle Benedict Walker and new friends Rosamund, Martin and family. On A huge shout out to Daniel Fahey and Tamara the road, thank yous are due to more people than I Sheward at Lonely Planet for their patience, trust can fairly start to name here, but a particular shout and guidance. My special thanks to Stefano Marin goes to Jamie in Mechelen – may your new life and my friends in Berlin, Matti, Anna, Robert and Kira bring you joy. for your support; to Maarten Masscheleyn for being an excellent Ghentian-guide; to my brother Andy, to Catherine Le Nevez Mum (as always) and the rest of the Walker and Cook Merci/Vielen Dank first and foremost to Julian, clans for your continued encouragement. Dedicated and to everyone in Luxembourg and beyond who to Warner Cook, Kevin Hennessy and James Ham. provided insights, inspiration and good times during this update and over the years. Huge thanks too to Destination Editor Daniel Fahey and my co-authors, ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS and everyone at Lonely Planet. As ever, merci encore Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson to my parents, brother, belle-sœur, neveu and nièce. BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Helena Smith Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Sincere thanks to Pierre Massart and Gary Divito Cover photograph: Bruges, Belgium, Rudy Balasko/ for the lowdown on all that is hip and Getty Images © 314 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Destination Editor Dobbin, Tamara Sheward, THIS BOOK Daniel Fahey Simon Williamson This 7th edition of Lonely Plan- Senior Product Editors Assisting Cartographers et’s Belgium & Luxembourg Genna Patterson, Grace Dobell Anita Banh, Katerina Pavkova, guidebook was researched and Regional Senior Cartogra- Anthony Phelan written by Mark Elliott, Cath- pher Mark Griffiths Cover Researcher erine Le Nevez, Helena Smith, Product Editor Naomi Parker Regis St Louis and Benedict Alison Ridgway Thanks to Jennifer Carey, Walker. The previous edition Book Designer Fergal Condon Sandie Kestell, Kate Kiely, was written by Helena Smith, Kirsten Rawlings, Jessica Andy Symington and Donna Assisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Nigel Chin, Lucy Ryan, Dianne Schallmeiner, Wheeler. This guidebook was James Smart, John Taufa, Juan produced by the following: Cowie, Pete Cruttenden, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Winata ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 315

Index

A area codes 296 Berdorf 259 highlights 84 abbeys & monasteries Arlon 220 Bergen 191-5 history 85-7 Abbaye d’Aulne 201-2 art 10, 286-8, 10 bicycle travel, see cycling shopping 101-2 Abbaye de Villers 202 art galleries, see museums bière blanche 284 sights 87-94 Abbaye d’Echternach 257 & galleries Binche 195-6, 10 tourist information 102 St-Pietersabdij 133 15, 290, 15 Blégny Mine 234 tours 94 Abdij Sint-Sixtus 116 Antwerp 156 boat travel 299, 300 travel to/from 83, 102 accessible travel 292 Brussels 57 Bock Casemates 245 travel within 102-3 accommodation 18, 292-3, Ath 190 Bogloon 180 Brûly-de-Pesche 204 see also individual Atlantikwall Raversyde 107 bolleke 159 Brussels 31, 34-82, 36-7, locations ATMs 296 books 266, 288 40-1, 46-7, 50-1, 54-5, language 304, 307 59-60, 2 Botrange Nature Centre 241 58, 2, 5, 9 Achouffe 222 Aubechies 190 Botte de Hainaut 202-4 accommodation 34, 62-5 activities 21, 30, 293-4, see Audenarde 125-7 Bouillon 216-19 architecture 49, 53, 57, 60 also cycling, walking Aulne 201-2 Bourscheid 260, 12 children, travel with 29 Adoration of the Mystic discount cards 38 238 Brabo Fountain 145, 2 Lamb, The 129 drinking & nightlife 71-6 air travel 298, 299 Bredene 106 Brel, Jacques 39 driving distances 34 Alle 219 B entertainment 76 Baarle-Hertog 166 breweries Ambiorix 181 fashion district 79 Baarle-Nassau 166 Abdij Sint-Sixtus 116 Antwerp 12, 144-64, 146-7, food 34, 65-71 150-1, 154, 2, 13 Bastogne 220-2 Brouwerij Cafe de Seefhoek 160 highlights 36-7 accommodation 142, 152-6 bathrooms 297 Brouwerij De Halve history 35 activities 145-51 Battle of the Ardennes 221 Maan 89 shopping 78-80, 81 discount cards 145 221 Brouwerij Het Anker 173 sights 38-60, 63 drinking & nightlife Battle of the Golden Spurs Brussels Beer Project 72 tourist information 60, 159-62 124 Cantillon Brewery 58-9 80-1 driving distances 142 198 De Koninck 151 tours 60 entertainment 162 Beaufort 259-60 museums 39, 57, 89, travel to/from 34, 81 festivals & events 151-2 Beauvoorde 113 211-12 travel within 81-2 food 142, 156-9 beer 13, 283-5, 13 Notre Dame d’Orval 220 walking tours 49, 61, 61 history 144 bolleke 159 Pipaix 190 Bruxellois 48, 279 shopping 162-3 57 Poperinge 115 budget 17 sights 145-51 itineraries 28, 28 Stella Artois 175-6 bus travel 298-9, 300-1 tourist information 163 57, 58, 284 tours 285 business hours 296 travel to/from 142, 163-4 pintje 159 Westmalle 164-5 travel within 164 Trappist 13, 115, 116, 164-5, Brouwerij Het Anker 173 archaeological sites 203, 220, 283 C Bruges 9, 85-103, 86, 45 witbier 284 Canal Bruxelles Charleroi 90-1, 8-9 194 Malagne 215 begijnhoven 11, 21, 290 accommodation 83, 95-6 Cantons de l’Est 240-2 architecture 11, 290 Bruges 93 drinking & nightlife 99-100, car travel 299, 301 Ardennes 204-42 Kortrijk 124, 11 101 Lier 167 Carnaval de Binche 10, driving distances 83 196, Turnhout 165 10 entertainment 100-1 castles & 12, 20 belfries 11, 21, 290 Map Pages 000 festivals & events 94-5 accommodation 263 Belgian royalty 275, 277 Photo Pages 000 food 83, 96-9 Beaufort Castles 259-60 Belœil 191 316 castles & palaces Église Notre-Dame de la Luxembourg City 255 ferries 299 continued Chapelle 44 Moselle Valley 255 festivals & events 22-5 Château de Belœil 191 Église Notre-Dame du Namur 211 film 266, 288 Sablon 48 Château de Bouillon 217 Poperinge 115 14, 120-3, 14 Église Ste-Catherine 42 Château de Bourscheid food 280-2, 295, see 260-1, 12 Église Ste-Marie 47-8 also individual locations

INDEX INDEX Château de Fy 290 Église St-Jean-Baptiste D children, travel with 30 au Béguinage 42 Damme 103 Château de Lavaux- language 304-5, 307-8 Jeruzalemkerk 93 dance 288 Sainte-Anne 214 football 267 National Basilica 59 dangers 267, 296 C - H -  C Château de 225 Forêt de Soignes 55-6 Onze Lieve de Bouillon, Godefroid 217 Château de Vianden Frahan-sur-Semois 219 261, Vrouwebasiliek De Haan 105 3 frites 281 Château de Wiltz 264 (Tongeren) 181 De Panne 112-13 Gravensteen 129, 131 Onze-Lieve- Demeulemeester, Ann 163 Vrouwekathedraal Kasteel Beauvoorde 113 Deurle 135 G (Antwerp) 145 Kasteel van 57 Diekirch 260-1 galleries, see museums & Onze-Lieve- Diest 179 galleries Kasteelpark Vrouwekerk 89 121 Diksmuide 114 Gand, see Ghent Sint-Baafskathedraal Museumtuin Kasteel van dinanderie 212 gardens, see parks & 129, 131-2 gardens Gaasbeek 57 Dinant 211-13 St-Carolus- gay travellers 75, 296 Palais Grand-Ducal 245-7 Borromeuskerk 148 disabilities, travellers Gaye, Marvin 110 Palais Royal 45 St-Leonarduskerk 180 with 292 Gent, see Ghent , see churches & St-Petrus-&-Pauluskerk discount cards 103, 294-5, cathedrals 106 see also individual Geraardsbergen 127-8 locations caves 14, 21 St-Pieterskerk 176 Ghent 13, 128-41, 130-1, distilleries 201 , Grotte de Lorette 214-15 St-Romboutskathedraal 134 13 Grottes de Han 14, 169 Doornik 186-90 accommodation 83, 136-7 213, 14 St-Salvatorskathedraal Dourbes 202 Grottes de Hotto 223 93 drinks 282, see also beer activities 135-6 Grottes du St-Walburgakerk 113 elixir d’Anvers 159 discount cards 129 Remouchamps 238 St-Willibrord Basilica 257 jenever 179, 282 drinking & nightlife 139-40 Parcours Speleo 213 Circuit Spa-Francorchamps wine 256, 282 cell phones 296 236 driving 299, 301 driving distances 83 Charleroi 199-201 Citadelle de Namur 205 Durbuy 223-4 entertainment 140 children, travel with 29-30, Clervaux 263, 264 festivals & events 136 302 climate 16, 294 food 83, 137-9 Chimay 203-4 comic strips & books E highlights 84 Eastern Cantons 240-2 chips 281 15, 289 history 128-9 Echternach 257-9 chocolate 10, 281-2, 10 45 shopping 141 economy 266-7 factories 233 museums 45-6 sights 129-35 Edingen 191 museums 89 shops 81 tourist information 141 Éislek 260-4 shops 80, 101, 162-3, 232 199 tours 135-6 electricity 295 churches & cathedrals Coo 237-8 travel to/from 83, 141 elixir d’Anvers 159 Basiliek van het Heilig costs 17 travel within 141 emergencies Bloed 88 Coudenberg 45 Grammont 127-8 language 305, 308-9 Cathédrale des Sts- Courtrai 123-5 Grand Place (Brussels) telephone 17 Michel & Gudule 44 credit cards 296 9, 38, 9 Enghien 191 Cathédrale Notre Dame crémants 256 Gravensteen 129, 131 (Tournai) 186 Esch-sur-Sûre 263-4 Crupet 211 Grevenmacher 256 Cathédrale Notre-Dame etiquette 19 crystal 229 Grotte de Lorette 214-15 (Luxembourg City) Ettelbrück 260 culture 278-9 Grottes de Han 14, 213, 14 247-8 EU 53 currency 17 Grottes de 223 Collégiale Ste-Gertrude Eupen 242 196 customs regulations 294 Grottes du Remouchamps Euro Space Center 214 Collégiale Ste-Waudru Cwarmê 240 238 events, see festivals & 192 cycling 293, 299-300 events Antwerp 151, 164 H Bruges 94, 102, 103 Hageland 179-80 F Map Pages Brussels 53, 60, 82 Han 256 000 Fagnolle 202 Photo Pages Liège 233 Han-sur-Lesse 213-14, 14 000 Family of Man 264 317 Hanswijk 171 lambic beer 284 travel to/from 254 Grand Curtius 225 Haspengouw 180-2 Deutscher travel within 255 Groeningemuseum 88-9 Hasselt 179-80 Soldatenfriedhof 120 Historium 88 Hautes Fagnes 241 language 16, 19, 278-9, Hooge Crater Museum 303-12 M 123 health 295 Magritte, René 44 Bruxellois 48 Hôpital Notre-Dame à la Hepburn, Audrey 288 Malines, see Mechelen

Dutch 303-6 Rose 191 INDEX Het Zwin 104-5 Malmédy 240-2 hiking, see walking French 307-10 House of European 39 History 53 history 268-77 Letzeburgesch 303 Mariembourg 202-3 place names 301 M -  H hitching 301 measures 296 Museum 116 Hitler, Adolf 204 Larochette 257, 259 Mechelen 13, 168-74, 170 Jewish Museum 44 holidays 296 Lavaux-Ste-Anne 214 media 296 Kazerne Dossin 170 Hooge 122-3 Le Coq 105 Memorial 1815 197 M HKA 149 166 legal matters 296 Léopold II 274-5, 290 Meunier, Constantin 49-50, M Van Museum 174-5 Hôpital Notre-Dame à la 287 Memorial 1815 197 Rose 191 lesbian travellers 75, 296 Mini Europe 60 Memorial Museum Horta, Victor 15, 49, Lessines 191 MOBIB 300 Passchendaele 1917 53-4, 15 Leuven 174-9, 175 mobile phones 296 121 Hotton Caves 223 LGBT travellers 75, 296 monasteries, see abbeys & MIM 44 Hougoumont 197, 198 Liège 224-33, 226-7 monasteries MIMA 42 Huy 224 accommodation 228-9 money 19, 296 Mons Memorial Museum drinking & nightlife 231-2 Mons 191-5 191-2 I entertainment 232 Moselle Valley 255-7 MSK 133 festivals & events 228 Ieper 14, 116-20, 118, 14 motor racing 236 Mudam 248 immigration 279 food 230-1 motorcycle travel 299, 301 Musée 54 In Bruges 97 history 224-5 Müllerthal 257-60 Musée Art & Histoire 53 industrial heritage 20-1 shopping 232 museums & galleries Musée Constantin insurance 295 sights 225-8 Abbaye de Stavelot Meunier 49-50 internet access 295-6 tourist information 232 238-9 travel to/from 232-3 ADAM 60 Musée d’Art internet resources 17 Fantastique 50 travel within 233 Museum 55 itineraries 26-8, 26, 27, 28 Musée David et Alice van Lier 167-8 Anno 1465 107-8 Buuren 56 Lillo 153 Archéosite 190 Musée de la Brasserie 39 J Limbourg 234 Argos 39, 42 Jeanneke Pis 39 Musée de la Lissewege 106 Bastogne War Museum Photographie 200 jenever 179, 282 Lompret 202 220 Musée des Beaux-Arts Jewish population 278 Louvain, see Leuven Baugnez 44 240 186-8 Louvain-la-Neuve 199 Bokrijk Musée des Sciences K Luxembourg 32, 243-64, Openluchtmuseum 179 Naturelles 52 Kasteelpark Zonnebeke 121 244 brewery museums 39, Musée d’Histoire de la 57, 58-9, 89 Katholieke Universiteit van accommodation 243 Ville de Luxembourg Leuven 176 driving distances 243 Brussels walking tours 247 Keizer Karel V 270-1 food 243 61, 61 Musée Hergé 15, 199, 15 Knokke-Heist 103-4 highlights 244 Centre Belge de la Bande Musée Horta 49 Dessinée 45-6 Kortrijk 123-5, 11 tourist information 245 Musée Littéraire Victor Centrum De Ronde van Hugo 262 KUL 176 travel to/from 243 Vlaanderen 126 Musée Magritte 44 travel within 245 children, for 30 Luxembourg City 14, 245-55, Musée Mode & chocolate 89 Dentelle 38 L 246, 14 La Ducasse 193 De Lambiek 57 Musée National accommodation 249-51 274 Dernier Quartier Général d’Histoire Militaire 261 drinking & nightlife La Roche-en-Ardenne de Napoléon 198-9 Musée Royal de l’Armée 252-3 222-3 House Museum et d’Histoire entertainment 253-4 La Wallonie, see Wallonia 58 Militaire 54 festivals & events 249 lace making 38, 93 Euro Space Center 214 Musées Royaux des food 251-2 Lacs de l’Eau d’Heure 202 Family of Man 264 Beaux-Arts 44 history 245 Laetare 239 Ferme Brasserie Mont- Museum Mayer van den shopping 254 Saint-Jean 197-8 Bergh 145-6 Lafôret 219 sights 245-9 Fourneau St-Michel Museum Plantin- Lakenhalle 117 tours 249 216 Moretus 145 318 museums & galleries passports 298 soccer 267 vegan travellers 281 continued Philippeville 202 Souterrains 205 vegetarian travellers 281 Museum Sint- pintje 159 Spa 235-7 Veianen 261-3, 3 Janshospitaal 89 Pipaix 190 spas 236 Verbeke Foundation 165 National Bank of place names 301 sport 267, 278 Verviers 233-5 Belgium Museum 46-7 Plan Incliné de Ronquières Sprinprozession 258 Veurne 113-14

INDEX INDEX OLV-ter-Potterie 94 194 Stadhuis (Leuven) 174 Vianden 261-3, 3 Sanctuary Wood ( 62) Plancenoit 198 Museum 122-3 Stavelot 238-40 Villers la Ville 202 planning 16-17, 18-19 Silex’s 193 Stella Artois 175-6 visas 297, 298 M - Z -  M Belgium & Luxembourg St-Gilles Town Hall 49 Vresse-sur-Semois 219 Snijder-Rockoxhuis 146 basics 16-17 Speelgoedmuseum 169 St-Hubert 216 Belgium & Luxembourg’s St-Martens-Latem 135 Stadsmuseum 107 regions 31-2 St Niklaas 165 W STAM 133 budgeting 17 waffles 282 St-Pietersabdij 133 Talbot House 114-15 calendar of events 22-5 walking 294 Strépy-Thieu Boat-Lift 194 Train World 43 children, travel with Hautes Fagnes 241 St-Trond 180-1 Verbeke Foundation 165 29-30 Müllerthal 258, 259 20, 287 Volkskundemuseum 94 first-time visitors 18-19 walking tours Wiels 56 itineraries 26-8, 26, Brussels 49, 60, 61, 61 music 289 27, 28 T Wallonia 32, 183-242, travel resources 17 Tchantchès 230 184-5 travel seasons 16, 22-5 telephone services 296 accommodation 183 N politics 266-7 Thuin 201 driving distances 183 Namur 204-11, 206 Poperinge 114-16 Tienen 180 National Basilica 59 food 183 population 267, 278-9 time 16, 296-7 296 highlights 184-5 postal services 296 Tintin 199, 289 Nieuwpoort 111 tourist information 186 public holidays 296 tipping 19 Nijvel 196-7 travel within 183 public transport 300, 301-2 Tirlemont 180 Nismes 202-3 Waterloo 197-9 toilets 297 Nivelles 196-7 Watou 115 Tombeau du Géant 219 Q weather 16, 294 Quint, Charles 270-1 152 websites 17 O Tongeren 181-2 weights 296 Oostduinkerke 111-12 Tongres 181-2 Westmalle 164-5 opening hours 296 R Tournai 186-90, 187 Westvleteren 115, 116, Ragnies 201 Orval 220 tourist information 297 283-4 Ost Kantonen 240-2 Redu 214 train travel 299, 301-2, white beer 284 religion 267, 271-2, 279 Ostend 106-11, 108 302 Wiltz 264 Oudenaarde 125-7 Remerschen 256-7 travel seasons 16, 22-5 wine 256, 282 ride sharing 301 travel to/from Belgium & witbier 284 Rochefort 214-16 Luxembourg 298-9 Woesten 115 P Rochehaut 219 Pairi Daiza 192 travel within Belgium work 297 royalty, Belgian 275, 277 & Luxembourg 17, palaces, see castles & Wormeldange 256 299-302 palaces , Pieter Paul 145, WWI 14, 122, 275 148, 287 Turnhout 165-7 Palais de Justice 48-9 WWII 276 CWGC Palais Grand-Ducal 245-7 Cemetary 121 parks & gardens S Y Domaine Provincial de safety 267, 296 Ypres (Ieper) 14, 116-20, Chevetogne 215 Sax, Adolphe 212 U 118, 14 Forêt de Soignes 55-6 saxophones 212 Universiteitsbibliotheek 176 120-3, 121 d’Enghien 191 Schengen 255-7 Parc du Scherpenheuvel 179 V 52-3 Semois River Valley 219 296 Z Place du Petit Sablon 48 Zeebrugge 106 senior travellers 294 Val St-Lambert 229 Planetuin 63 Zimmertoren 167 229 Val-Dieu 234 121-3 Zinneke 39 Sint-Baafskathedraal 129, van Beirendonck, Walter 131-2 163 Zonnebeke 121-3 Sint-Truiden 180-1 van Eyck, Jan 286 Zoutleeuw 180 Map Pages 000 skiing 294 van Noten, Dries 163 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 319

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/ Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/ Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/ Cafe Tram Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, , and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Mark Elliott As a small child, Mark was dragged up a conical hill to meet a giant lion (at Waterloo) then let loose inside an enormous chemistry set (the Atomium). To a baby Brit, Belgium already looked pretty weird. But that was just the start. Hav- ing been based there for half of the last three decades, he has long since dis- covered that the country’s surrealism runs even deeper – from art to countless crazy . He is the (co)writer of more than 60 travel books and guides.

Catherine Le Nevez Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and postgrad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Over the past dozen-plus years she’s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond.

Helena Smith Helena is an award-winning writer and photographer covering travel, outdoors and food – she has written guidebooks on destinations from Fiji to northern . Helena is from but was partly brought up in Malawi, so Africa always feels like home.

Regis St Louis Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents.

Benedict Walker A beach baby from Newcastle (Australia), Benedict turned 40 in 2017 and de- cided to start a new life in Leipzig (Germany). Writing for Lonely Planet was a childhood dream for him. He’s thrilled to have covered big chunks of Australia, , Germany, , USA (including Las Vegas), , and Japan.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 7th edition – April 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 381 0 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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