FREIBURG Co-Founder, Hasn’T Been Heard from in the Black Forest Capitol Is a University Town with a Network of Narrow, Winding Streets These Pages Since Late ‘80S

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Voice from the past Having been involved in other, more remunerative activities, Consult- ing Editor Tom Bestor, a Gemütlichkeit FREIBURG co-founder, hasn’t been heard from in The Black Forest capitol is a university town with a network of narrow, winding streets these pages since late ‘80s. This 17th lined with restaurants and shops and where fresh, clear water runs in narrow channels. anniversary issue seems an appropriate here’s a Freiburg saying that time for him to step to the podium and Pride is expressed everywhere. perhaps is a bit of an exaggera- says a few words. — RHB. The sidewalks are paved with dark T tion: “There are two kinds of pebbles from the Rhine. In front of One of the best things about people in this world: those who live each shop, quartz and other stones Gemütlichkeit readers is their attitude in Freiburg, and those who wish they form mosaics of medieval trade sym- toward travel. You don’t simply share did.” After a few days in the town, bols: a boot for a shoe store, a mortar our love of Germany, Austria and you may feel that way. At the very and pestle for an apothecary, a bear Switzerland, you also seem to share least, you won’t want to in front of the Gasthaus Zum Roten some of our philosophy about how By Jim leave. Bären, and an ice cream cone — with you experience places foreign to you. Johnson Quite simply, the city is three scoops — in front of an ice A few weeks ago, as my brother and I cream parlor. This is no easy task: sat late one evening on his deck, shar- a joy to visit; relaxed but electric, calm but alive, a small city dressed in three men are employed full-time ing a bottle of wine with his friends, and each day can complete only a the discussion turned to just this topic; smaller-town clothes. It’s German but with an almost Mediterranean cli- small area of sidewalk. The shops how does one maximize the travel share the costs. experience? Time and money, after all, mate and the ambiance and joie de are in short supply. vivre that goes with it. France, after The Minster — the city cathedral all, is just 15 miles away. The Austri- — is further evidence of civic pride. My answer is simple: travel deep. ans, too, left their cultural fingerprint For more than a century, its upkeep The cliché of American travelers here, thanks to the city’s 400 years has been supported purely by dona- (and like virtually all clichés, it’s under Habsburg rule. Continued on page 3… based in truth) is that we tend to skip from place to place, cramming as much variety into a trip as possible. Gemütlichkeit:1987-2004 This penchant was epitomized in the 1969 movie “ It’s Tuesday, This Must he first issue of Gemütlicheit place we know. It is somehow reas- Be Belgium.” The British version was January 1987. The lead suring that this modest inn has might be Monty Python’s famous T story was about driving Eu- changed so little. The atmosphere is travel agent sketch, in which Eric Idle rope’s backroads and, though we still as we described it 17 years ago. talks non-stop to a travel agent about didn’t intend it, the first wordy sen- Perhaps it's just the beer, but some- wanting to avoid the sort of package tence, Surely the greatest of the consider- thing transforming happens right around tours where one is “carted around in able pleasures of automobile travel in 10 o'clock. It is similar to the moment in busses, surrounded by sweaty mind- Germany, Austria and Swit- "The Wizard of Oz" when the movie less oafs in their cloth caps and their By Bob zerland lies in exploring the Bestor changes from black & white to color. One cardigans, complaining about the tea, maze of backroads which is drinking the same beer, in the same ‘Oh they don’t make it properly here overlay the countryside like a vast net- place, served by the same waitress — but do they — not like at home.’” work of fine capillaries, established a somehow everything is different. Continued on page 2… tone and philosophy — though that’s It is about this time that Josef and much too grand a word — for the Friedl begin to sing and yodel as well as next 200 issues. A few years later we in this issue play their instruments. Deeper into the soothed the ire of a substantial per- night their harmonies begin to include 1 Traveling Deep centage of our readers by acknowl- achingly sad songs of unrequited Alpine edging — after discovering for our- 1 Freiburg im Breisgau love. The tourist tables are emptying selves — the joys of rail travel. 1 The First 17 Years and one or two large tables reserved for Another accidental portent of Continued on page 6… 4 Key Websites issues to come, was a story on Exchange rates as of 11/19/03 Garmisch-Partenkirchen’s Gasthof 8 Readers’ Forum 1 euro = $1.19 Fraundorfer, still the most gemütlich 1 Swiss franc = $.76 http://www.gemut.com December 03/January 04 http://www.gemut.com

DEAR SUBSCRIBER the major sights (the Louvre, Musee the place. Get around the way the d’Orsay, Notre Dame, Eiffel Tower, locals do – often by public transit. Go Continued from page 1 Pompidou Center, etc.) and had gone to a cultural or sporting event. Pick On a first trip somewhere, it can be deeply into second tier sights, as well: up the local paper. Read it if you can. valuable to spread your net wide in the Rodin Museum, Victor Hugo’s Go shopping for mundane things like order to see what calls to you, to make house, the catacombs, etc. Thus freed shoelaces or writing paper. Go to the mental notes of regions to which you from my normal desire to “bag” at- same place often enough and you want to return and explore more fully tractions like I was on some sort of might even be invited to sit at the on subsequent journeys. But I still hear cultural safari, I was able to experi- Stammtisch, the table reserved for of people who trot off to Europe for ence the city in a different way. regulars in many German, Austrian three days in London, three in Paris On the first three mornings I was and Swiss restaurants. Order food and somewhat less than a week in there, I tried three neighborhood and wine that comes from the region. Northern Italy, which gives them time bakeries. When I had decided which Stay away from places with translat- to do Florence, Venice and a day trip to I liked best, I went there for the next ed menus, and from other tourists. Siena and/or Pisa. Short attention span 11 days for a morning baguette and travel. • Avoid Americanized places brioche. I spent hours in the Parc Sure, locals go to Starbucks and If that satisfies you, fine, but ulti- Monceau reading and people-watch- McDonald’s – they’re now global mately, all travel is about choices; after ing. I wandered through department brands — but hanging on to such all, you can’t go everywhere. The “travel stores and watched Parisian kids lifelines of familiarity prevents you deep” philosophy simply means choos- whining about what their moms from fully experiencing the foreign- ing to narrow one’s focus. Like many wanted them to wear – and didn’t ness of a place. And isn’t that at least philosophies, it doesn’t have a lot of even need French to know what was partly why you’re traveling? rules – just guidelines. And only three being discussed. So on your next trip out of the at that: The point is, focus brings free- country, think about traveling deeper • Stay longer in one place dom. Suddenly time seems to stretch – you might be surprised at what you For example, you could take a two- out in front of you. And that makes find below the surface. week trip consisting of three days in vacation time (which is precious for Berlin, three touring the Mosel valley most of us) more relaxing. And it all Using Gemütlichkeit (Trier, Bernkastel-Kues, Cochem, ), a comes from narrowing your options. • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts are couple of days in Munich, two more in This works no matter how much often available for longer stays. Salzburg, two in Zürich and two for time you have – if you have only a • All hotel prices include breakfast unless otherwise traveling between those places. Or, you day in a city, you can decide to con- noted. • Local European telephone area codes carry the “0” could choose to spend a full week in centrate on one neighborhood, maybe Berlin, and another week at the Chalet required for in-country dialing. To phone establish- even a single intersection, rather than ments from outside the country, such as from the USA, du Lac near Interlaken. Or do a couple trying to cover it all. If you have a do not dial the first “0”. of weeks in Vienna. Or rent a house in month, try spending it all in one Logging on to our Website the Ticino. country, or even one region. Back issues in text format from January 1993, except for One of my favorite trips was two • Live like a local the most recent 12, are available free to subscribers only at weeks in a studio apartment in Paris, Even if you’re only in a place for a http://www.gemut.com (click on “Members”). To ac- attempting the life of a Parisian. (Albe- cess the issues enter the user name and password pub- few days, traveling deep means it a Parisian without a job, and only lished in this space each month. The new codes are: jumping feet first into the lifestyle of basic skills in French.) I’d already seen User Name: anniv Password: 4445

Vol. 17, No. 11 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY Dec./Jan. 2003/2004 Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: RobertRobert H. H.& &Elizabeth Elizabeth S. S. Bestor Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Editor: RobertRobert H. H. Bestor Bestor Adequate 4 - 7 Contributors: Doug Linton, C. Fischer,Jim R.Johnson, Holliday, Mark Jim Johnson Honan Unacceptable 0 - 3 WebWebmasters: Master: Criss Garcia,Paul Ryan T. Merschdorf Stowasser Consulting Editor: Editor: ThomasThomas P. P. Bestor Bestor Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Subscription Dept: Dept: KurtKurt Steffans Steffans People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Subscriber Travel Travel Services: Services: Andy Andy Bestor, Bestor, Laura Laura RiedelRiedel Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 11 times each year by UpCountry Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $59 per year for 11 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this publication, the Special G Designation publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. By virtue of location, decor, charm, warmth of management, or POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: combination thereof, an especially pleasant establishment. Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520 Gemütlichkeit 2 December 03/January 04 http://www.gemut.com FREIBURG Freiburg Basics exceptions, the defensive wall disap- Continued from page 1 Population: 230,000 peared long ago, much of it replaced th Elevation: 1,068 feet (323 meters) in the 18 century by the ring roads tions. Scaffolding surrounds it, as it that encircle the Old City. Today, has for years and perhaps will for Tourist Office: Freiburg Wirtschaft und Touristik, Rotteckring 14, D-79098 those same boulevards circulate auto- eternity, thanks to the fragility of the Freiburg, tel: +49/761/3881-880, fax: mobile traffic away from the Altstadt, sandstone and extensive filigree. 37003, email: [email protected], allowing for one of Germany’s largest When one section is repaired, another web: www.fwt-online.de pedestrian zones. awaits. As a local saying goes, “When Driving Distances: Although Freiburg was damaged the scaffolding comes down, we’ll Berlin 802 km 498 miles greatly during World War II, the city know it’s the end of the world.” Just a Cologne 433 km 269 miles Constance 124 km 77 miles was rebuilt following its medieval few blocks away 13 stonemasons Frankfurt 374 km 232 miles layout. Builders used similar con- apply ancient techniques in recreat- Munich 410 km 255 miles struction materials and styles, and ing statues and intricate scrollwork (a Vienna 858 km 533 miles even the modern structures within wonder to watch). Zürich 150 km 93 miles Rail Connections: ICE trains run south the Altstadt blend in beautifully. The Minster’s construction to Basel and north to Karlsruhe and With more than 30,000 students in spanned four centuries and was sup- Frankfurt. Trains to Stuttgart and points a population of 200,000, a youthful ported in great part by local guilds, east (as well as most points in Austria) spirit pervades the old city. There’s whose symbols are still seen in connect through Karlsruhe. an active pub and club scene, and stained glass windows. Don’t miss Nearest Airports: Basel (70 km/43 cafés spread their tables across plazas the gargoyles, including one that miles), Stuttgart (205 km/127 miles) and sidewalks until the wee hours spouts water not from his hideous Water, water everywhere (the Universitätstrasse has the liveli- mouth but rather from his naked Visitors to Freiburg quickly note a est concentration). When plays and bottom. If your legs are sturdy and unique city feature, the so-called Bäch- concerts let out in the evening, the the weather’s good, consider the 330- le — or little streams— that flow in city gets a second wind. Live music is step climb up the spire for an out- neat, narrow trenches through most popular in the Platz, a popular stu- standing view of the Old Town, the streets. They were built nearly 600 dent gathering ground. For music Black Forest and the Rhine plain. years ago as a water supply and to with a beer chaser, there’s the Haus- Tradition is important in fight fires. The Dreisam River, above bräuerei Feierling (Gerberau 46 (tel. Freiburg. Farmers and craftspeople the city, was split into multiple chan- 0761/2-66-78). The brewery/restau- still sell their wares daily (except nels and follows a network through rant is on one side of the Augustiner Sunday) on the cathedral square. On the Altstadt. The downstream flow is Platz and pipes beer under the road one side, farmers sell local fruit, vege- collected on the other side of town to the beer garden across the street. tables, meats, cheeses, sausages and and eventually reaches the Rhine. A From the Black Forest to the Rhine bread, as well as teas and spices. On team of cleaners scrubs the stones and Local residents affectionately refer the other, craftspeople offer wooden removes obstructions to ensure a to Freiburg as the Metropolis of the toys, carvings and candles, many of steady flow of clean water. Black Forest. Technically, geogra- them from the Black Forest. Most Today, the Bächle is a way for phers will tell you, Freiburg’s Altstadt buyers are not tourists. As they have tired backpackers to cool their feet, a lies outside the Black Forest. Howev- for centuries, Freiburg’s residents race course for kids with rubber er, cross one street on the eastern come to the marketplace at least once ducks — and a challenge for inatten- fringe of town—the Schlossber- a week — usually Saturday — to tive visitors. Local tradition has it gring—onto the wooded Schlossberg shop, even though it may be less con- that any visitor who stumbles into hill, and you’re in the Schwarzwald. venient or more expensive than a the water must marry a Freiburger. supermarket. They know where the With a Freiburg region transit The waters can also reflect a sense of goods came from; they have known pass, guests can board streetcars or renewal, as in the stream emerging the sellers for generations. buses and quickly find themselves in from the Star of David statue at the the deepest Black Forest, on the roll- Retailing is by no means restricted new synagogue. There, the town has ing vineyards and farmland of the to the market square. Freiburg is a erected a plaque acknowledging its Breisgau or Markgräflerland, and shopper’s city, with values in depart- “shame and sorrow” for the Jewish even at the banks of the Upper Rhine. ment stores along the Kaiser-Joseph- community that was torn from From Freiburg, it’s just a few miles to Strasse and high-end buys in bou- Freiburg during Nazi times. the Breisgau Region and the rolling tiques and galleries on Konviktstrasse Architecturally, Freiburg doesn’t hills of the Tuniberg and Kaiserstuhl, and Königstrasse. Young designers follow any cookie-cutter image of an an area increasingly known as Ger- round out the mainstream stores with old German city. Unlike many towns man Tuscany, for its sultry and sun- a trendy jewelry and clothing scene. its size, it has no castle standing ny climate, extensive wine-growing, Browsers will love the antique shops watch from above; the French turned and amiable populace. in the Insel (Island) District and along it to rubble nearly 200 years ago. the Gerberau. Excursions And, except for a few barely visible A popular day trip within the city Gemütlichkeit 3 December 03/January 04 http://www.gemut.com limits is the Schauinsland, Freiburg’s Brisach was built by King Louis XIV and bottling operation at the Gelder- 1,284-meter (4,213-foot) “hometown” as a fortress town. Today, its central mann Privatsektkellerei. Two-hour mountain, where a cable car travels square, church, officers’ quarters, tours, which run six times daily ex- 15 minutes to the summit. The view barracks and private homes are still cept Sundays and holidays, cost _5 from the cable car reaches far out intact. Despite the proximity to Ger- and include a detailed and informa- over the Rhine plain, past the many, Neuf-Brisach is fully Gallic in tive wine tasting (Geldermann Privat- Tuniberg vineyards toward the character with delightful French bak- sektkellerei, Am Schlossberg 1, D- French Vosges mountain range. From eries, Alsatian restaurants (try the 79206 Breisach, tel. +49/7667/ 834 the summit, the view extends deep fresh trout at Ville de Paris at 13 rue 100, fax 834-351, email: into the Black Forest and south to the de Bâle, +33/389/72/5355) and cor- [email protected], web: Alps. ner bistros. www.geldermann.de Hilltops—the worn remnants of Winemaking Lodging long-extinct volcanoes—bear lush Thanks to its soil and favorable vineyard landscapes that alternate weather, winemaking has been cen- Oberkirch Hotel with sprawling tobacco farmland and tral to daily life in this part of Germa- From your room at the Oberkirch, orchards. Red roofs and narrow stee- ny for at least 1,500 years. In Septem- look on to the Cathedral and its busy ples set off tiny villages at all com- ber, town markets and produce square. Mornings you’ll watch farm- pass points. Ivy drapes off the ruins stands burst with dozens of varieties ers set up their stalls in the market- of ancient castles. of ripe grapes as well as plums, pears place. In the evening, listen to street For a novel ground-level view of and apples. musicians serenade guests at the caf- the countryside, consider a two-hour Many vintners give tours. At the és below. If you crane your neck out journey, perhaps with an accompany- Weingut Felix and Kilian Hunn in the window you’ll see the hotel’s ing bottle of wine, aboard a small Gottenheim, about midway between famous neighbor, the 16th-century flat-boat in the Taubergiessen Na- Freiburg and the Rhine, Kilian Hunn Historic Merchant House with its ture Preserve, a remote region often and wife Martina are proud to show four splendid arcades. referred to as “Germany’s Jungle.” off an operation which produces The Oberkirch has been in the (Contact Klaus Kossmann, tel. 49/ about 70,000 bottles annually. Guests same family since 1738 and carries a 7643/6775, fax 9339985, email: can take a guided stroll through the sense of tradition. Each of the 26 [email protected]) vineyards and sample five wines for guestrooms is individually decorated _ Just across the Rhine, Neuf- 3.50. with soft colors, rich wall coverings Brisach (New Brisach) is an example Like many wineries, the Hunns and dark wood furniture. Except for of Alsatian charm and historic mili- also operate a “Strausswirtschaft,” a a handful designed as “small sin- tary architecture. Protected by mas- seasonal restaurant with wines by the gles,” rooms are spacious. Although sive octagonal walls, imposing gates glass and homemade dishes — such the hotel was last renovated in 1992, and star-shaped fortifications, Neuf- as pork shoulder simmered in wine, it feels more like 2002. Everything is smoked bacon and bread, and fresh spotless, with nary a smudge or Key Websites for the Traveler potato salad — from the family kitch- scrape on the walls. • www.gemut.com Gateway site for travelers to en. (Weingut Felix and Kilian Hunn, Ask for accommodations facing Germanic Europe, including car rental, rail passes, Rathausstrasse 2, D-79288 Gotten- the Cathedral. hotel bookings, traveler feedback, travel tips and past heim, tel. +49/7665/6207, fax 6223, issues (free access to back issues for subscribers; see Daily Rates: Singles _56-107, doubles email: [email protected]) log-on info on page 2). _126-147. Indoor parking garage _10. • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin database of For a broader sampling of wine, Contact: Oberkirch Hotel, Münster- hotels and restaurants plus great interactive trip the Alte Wache on Freiburg’s Cathe- platz 22, D-7908 Freiburg, tel. +49/ planning tools. dral Square represents more than 30 • www.travelgearnow.com Guidebooks, maps, travel 761/2026868, fax 2026869, email: accessories, luggage, all at 10% off for subscribers. local vintners and offers more than info@hotel-oberkirch-de, web: • www.webflyer.com Informative frequent flyer 100 wines. Formal tastings are gener- www.traube-freiburg.de. Innkeepers: forums make this a must for air travelers. ally reserved for groups, but call Doris Hunn and Gudrun Johner. • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en German rail. Train manager Alixe Winter, who may be Rating: QUALITY 15/20 VALUE 15/20 schedules throughout Europe, not just Germany. able to merge you with an existing • www.sbb.ch/index_e.htm Swiss and European rail reservation. (Alte Wache, Münster- Hotel Kreuzblume schedules. The Hotel Kreuzblume is a • www.ski-europe.com Top web resource for skiers platz 38, D-79098 Freiburg, tel. +49/ with much data on Alpine resorts. 761/202870, fax 2028713, email: straightforward traveler’s hotel on • www.myswitzerland.com Website of Switzerland’s [email protected].) Konviktstrasse, one of Freiburg’s new national tourist authority. Sekt— “German” champagne— hot-spot districts. The rooms are • www.germany-tourism.de Germany’s national bright, cheery and spacious with tourist authority. has an extensive tradition in the region. To learn what makes cham- showers. It’s on the outskirts of the • www.austria.info/us Austria’s national tourist pedestrian district but a quick walk authority. pagne champagne (or sekt sekt), take to any point within the Old City. • http://www.hhog.de Website for an alliance of a guided tour of the extensive cellars historic German cities. Daily Rates: Singles _60, doubles _90. Gemütlichkeit 4 December 03/January 04 http://www.gemut.com Contact: Konviktstrasse 31, D-79098 at night.) the Old City and surrounding land- Freiburg, tel +49 0761 3119495, fax Daily Rates: Singles _175, doubles scape: the Greiffenegg Castle and +49 0761 26836, email info@hotel- _230-260, suites _275-820. Breakfast is the Dattler Restaurant. Reach both kreuzblume.de, web www.roter- an additional _9. (Weekend rates are on foot or by lift. On warm days, sit baeren.de www.hotel-kreuzblume.de about 20% less). Garage _13. on the terrace. Rating: QUALITY 14/20 VALUE 16/20 Contact: Colombi Hotel, Am Colombi In the countryside vineyards near Park Hotel Post Park, D-79098 Freiburg, tel. +49/0761 Freiburg, you can also stop at a sea- 21060, fax 31410, email: sonal Strausswirtschaft and enjoy The reasonably priced four-star cooking straight from the kitchen. Park Hotel Post is midway (about 150 [email protected], web: www.colombi.de. Proprietor: Roland Since they’re seasonal, ask your inn- paces) between the train station and Burtsche (twice German hotelier of keeper for recommendations. the pedestrian district overlooking the year) peaceful Columbi Park. The hotel For quick, cheap and eclectic fare, was built in the early 1900s in Ju- Rating: QUALITY 17/20 VALUE 15/20 the Freiburg Market Hall (Kaiser- gendstil (art nouveau), and the interi- Hotel Barbara Joseph-Strasse 233) is a must. There’s a strong international focus — Af- or is modern and stylish. Guestrooms The Hotel Barbara is a privately ghan, Arabian, Chinese, Thai and are large and creatively decorated run hotel on a quiet side street Italian—and you can also buy fresh with pastel colors and fabrics, wood one block from the train sta- French bread, wines, fresh-ground trim and soft lighting. tion and a few minutes’ walk coffee, fruits and vegetables, smoked The best chambers have balconies from the pedestrian zone. It is small fish and deli foods. Just note that the overlooking the park with the Cathe- — just 22 rooms —but offers many of Market Hall closes at 7pm on week- dral steeple rising over the Altstadt. the services of a larger hotel. Erika days and at 4pm on Saturdays and is Families and friendly couples travel- and Armin Wahl and their team will closed on Sundays. ing together should consider the two- arrange for theater tickets, wine tast- and three-room apartments. ings, gourmet dinners, excursions, Zum Roten Bären sightseeing tours and visits to area Daily Rates: Singles _89-119, doubles By most accounts, Zum Roten spas. If you choose the hiking pack- _114-159, two-room apartments Bären is the longest continuously-run age, they’ll prepare a picnic and lend _199-249, three-room apartments inn in Germany, in business since you walking sticks and rain jackets. _249-299. Garage _8. 1403. Peter Hansen, the Bären’s 50th There’s Internet service off the lobby. Contact: Park Hotel Post, Am Colom- documented innkeeper, has greeted And the comfortable rooms, many bipark, Eisenbahnstrasse 35/37, D- guests with his wife Monika since with balconies, offer the expected 79098 Freiburg, tel.: +49/761/385480, 1980. Today, there are 25 guestrooms amenities. fax: 31680, email: info@park-hotel- and the dining area is bright and post.de, web: www.park-hotel- Daily Rates: Singles _69-79, doubles cheerful with a dash of elegance. _89-102, apartments _119-139. post.de. Ingredients are fresh, and the Rating: QUALITY 15/20 VALUE 14/20 Contact: Hotel Barbara, Poststrasse 4, dishes are exquisitely prepared. The D-79098 Freiburg, tel. +49/761/ Colombi Hotel Bären employs its own herb profes- 296250, fax 26688, email: mail@hotel- Few would dispute that the Co- sional, who grows them in the garden barbara.de, web: www.hotel- of a former monastery. This allows lombi Hotel is the city’s most upscale barbara.de. Innkeepers: Erika and hostelry. Built in the 1950s, it recently chefs (and guests) to try unique and Armin Wahl and family. subtle flavorings. underwent renovations “to eliminate Rating: QUALITY 15/20 VALUE 17/20 all traces” of that often less-than- Salad “straight from the Freiburg stellar architectural period. Indeed, Food Marketplace” is served with chanter- there’s nothing 50s about this place Thanks in great part to the young elles from nearby woods, sautéed in anymore (certainly not the prices). student population, an extensive cream with bread dumplings. There’s Guests walk in under a glass-covered offering of international cuisine com- lamb roasted with rosemary-shallot entry and ascend a sweeping marble plements Freiburg’s regional and sauce and served with polenta; breast staircase from the open lobby. A feel- “down-home” restaurants and of duck glazed with mustard and ing of luxury dominates, not least of friendly beer gardens. Firmly in the honey; and medallions of venison all in the spa area with its circular “Three-Country Corner” of Germany, served in a choice of sauces with swimming pool, Roman steam bath Switzerland and France, Freiburg Spätzle. Wiener Schnitzel is listed as a and extensive “beauty farm.” also enjoys strong French and Alsa- regional dish — not a mistake but The 120 guest rooms feature sub- tian influences. Wine plays an impor- recognition that Freiburg was once part of the Habsburg dynasty. Most dued colors and elegant wood panel- tant role in both culture and cuisine, _ ing, some with floor-to-ceiling win- and restaurants make full use of local entrées range between 17-20. dows and French doors opening to a varieties on the table and in their Contact: Zum Roten Baeren, Oberlin- balcony and overlooking the Old cooking. den 12, D-79098 Freiburg, tel +49/ Town. (The views from the upper Two hilltop restaurants on the 761/387 870, fax 3878717, floors are quite stunning, especially Schlossberg, afford superb views of email: [email protected], Gemütlichkeit 5 December 03/January 04

Untitled-3 5 3/3/06, 10:14 AM http://www.gemut.com web: www.roter-baeren.de. (all less than _10 ) like smoked pork been a popular night-out for U.S. Rating: QUALITY 17/20 , VALUE 18/20 shoulder with sauerkraut, pork cutlet military families stationed in the area. browned with cheese and herbs, sau- Still, when we first wrote about it in Restaurant Zur Traube sage salad with fried potatoes, meat 1987, it was pretty much a secret. Other restaurants may offer great- ravioli, and black bread baked with Today it is well-known and in all the er choices or more elegance, but Zur cheese, herbs and ham. Otherwise, major guidebooks including those of Traube is recognized locally the light “Vesper” menu will more Karen Brown, for many years a and beyond as Freiburg’s lead- than suffice with a variety of cheeses, Gemütlichkeit subscriber. ing restaurant. Its chef, Sven dried meats and sausages for _5. Messerschmidt, is the youngest in Another story in that inaugural Contact: Hausbrauerei Feierling, issue was on winter airfares across Germany to have earned a Michelin Gerberau 46, D-79098 Freiburg, tel. the Atlantic. Among the deals men- star. +49/761/243480, fax: 25688, tioned was a $398 New York-Frank- The Traube (“Grape”) fuses re- email: [email protected], furt fare on TWA. As this is written, gional and classical French cuisine web: www.feierling.de 17 years later, there are several New with an eye toward inventive use of Rating: QUALITY 15/20, VALUE 16/20 York to Europe fares at less than local wines. Entrées are creative: $200. This winter we here in Oregon stuffed baby squid served on lemon GEMÜTLICHKEIT: 1987-2004 can fly nonstop to Frankfurt from risotto with mild curry sauce, carp Continued from page 1 Portland for about $350. Of course, with Brussels sprouts and caviar locals are now filled with ruddy-faced TWA is gone, as are Pan Am, Swis- sauce, frogs legs in a chestnut crêpe, Bavarians, most in traditional dress, sair, Sabena, Western, Balair, and smoked eel with mussels. There’s smoking and playing cards. several others who flew the Atlantic. duck in two courses: breast with Sadly, the experience has been apples, chestnuts and mushroom Sometimes, after midnight, Herr dumplings followed by the leg Fraundorfer, a huge, curly-haired man degraded. Inflight food is often swill, more seats are crammed into the glazed with honey and pepper and with bright red cheeks and wearing leder- same space, and airline computers served on red cabbage and Spätzle. hosen made with enough leather to saddle with sophisticated load-management Or various preparations of lamb a division of cavalry, will buy the house a software ensure that most planes are served together with sheep-cheese round or two of schnapps. Often he will ravioli. bring it to your table and, with a salute, filled to capacity (the airlines offer knock one back with you. deals so good they simply can’t be The restaurant, a national monu- refused). Add in the current tedious Herr Fraundorfer, plagued for ment, received a facelift in 2002 un- security procedures and flying is no der new innkeeper Doris Hunn with years by legs mangled in a bobsled fun anymore, and a prime reason accident, is now wheelchair-bound an eye toward historic charm. The why so many travelers frantically dining area was reduced to eight but still a late-night fixture. Though seek upgrades to business class tables (all antique wood), and a mu- Josef has retired, the sweet, clear where the seats are bigger and food voice of Friedl is a poignant reminder ral now displays a scene of the Cathe- almost edible. dral market. A medieval tile oven of many past nights in this friendly from an Alsatian monastery literally tavern. Except for a few weeks off for If our so-called philosophy and the Fraundorfer have stayed the and figuratively warms the room. heart bypass surgery several years ago, Friedl has performed six nights a same, much else has not. Technology Entrées start around _25, and week since 1959. And though she has changed the way we plan our dinner for two can easily exceed says she’s turning control of the place travel, and in some cases, the travel _100. Within the same building and over to her daughters, the linchpin of experience itself. In 1987, though the under the same management, the it all is still the indefatigable Barbara facsimile machine was just beginning Restaurant Oberkirchs Weinstube Fraundorfer. As you toddle off to to be mass marketed, most of us still offers lighter and less expensive your room after midnight she’s likely communicated with Europe via tele- choices. playing cards with the men at the phone or post. Later, as it became Contact: Restaurant Zur Traube, Stammtisch and, when you come affordable, the fax became standard Schusterstraße 17, D-79098 Freiburg, down for breakfast at 7:30am, you’ll equipment at virtually every Europe- tel. +49/761/32190, fax +49/761/ see her, fresh and revitalized, bus- an hotel and the reservation process 26313, email: tling about, chatting up the guests. became faster and easier. Rare these [email protected], (Hardcore fans that want a keepsake days is the hotel that doesn’t have web: www.traubefreiburg.de to remind them of the Fraundorfer CNN on its cable TV menu, and our Rating: QUALITY 18/20 VALUE 16/20 can purchase Friedl’s CD 35 Jahre im ability to quickly and easily get in Hausbrauerei Feierling Fraundorfer. Our favorite cuts are #5 touch with home and the next stop on our European itinerary is vastly This cheery and historic brewery Bergvagabunden and #11, Mit Musik und guter Laune .) enhanced by the cell phones many of welcomes guests at its outside garden us now carry when in Europe. (under spreading chestnut trees) and We can’t claim the Fraundorfer as in its three-story restaurant. If you’re our discovery, though we did first go But by far the biggest technologi- hungry, enjoy the inexpensive entrées there in 1979. Even then it had long cal change to the traveler’s life is the Gemütlichkeit 6 December 03/January 04

Untitled-3 6 3/3/06, 10:14 AM http://www.gemut.com Internet. The information one can Hohenau, Bamberg, Muggendorf, August 2001: Traveling Without unearth there is beyond comprehen- and Marktheidenfeld. We offer spe- an Itinerary. First installment of a sion. A simple Google search for cific route instructions, suggest the two-part guide to footloose, flexible “travel websites” yields some 11 mil- best maps, hotels, restaurants and European travel. lion results. The Web gives us: driv- provide information on what not to August 2002: The Swiss Travel ing directions and distances between miss along the way. System. Switzerland’s fabulously any two points in Europe; personal- October, 1995, Austria by Auto: coordinated network of trains, buses, ized rail timetables; and online hotel The second part of our Grand Tour lake steamers, and cable cars. bookings via websites that are virtual series. Includes four days in Vienna, Better Search & Sort Features hotel brochures, complete with gues- short visits to Graz and Salzburg and troom photos, prices, and restaurant In the past year we’ve made some some of Europe’s most thrilling and key improvements to gemut.com. menus. Of course with email we can beautiful mountain driving. almost instantly connect with tens of The most important of these being a thousands of travel vendors and with December 1995, Memory: Both better search capability. Perhaps like-minded travelers who share our funny and poignant recollections you’d like to know what we’ve said particular interests. from the first nine years of Gemütli- in past issues about Friedl, the singer cheit. There’s the time in Vienna at the Gasthof Fraundorfer in Gemütlichkeit’s Website when we stumbled onto reclusive Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Enter the One of those sellers of travel, of film star, Greta Garbo, lunching all words “Friedl,” “Gasthof,” and course, is Gemütlichkeit at alone in a huge, private dining room “Fraundorfer,” and choose “All of www.gemut.com. There you can at the Palais Schwarzenberg; and a my keywords” from the drop-down renew your subscription, send us a reader survey response from a sub- menu. You’ll get one match, the June change of address, get a quote on car scriber who signed himself H.S.H 1996 issue, which you can then rental or transatlantic airline tickets, (His Serene Highness), then his choose to read online or download. find rail pass prices, book a hotel name, followed by XXVIR.v.P. His room, compare prices on travel insur- The hotel database has also been royal comment: “We are content with improved. Hotels can now be sorted ance policies and, of course, delve your publication.” into our million-word archive of re- in ascending or descending order by ports on travel in the regions of Eu- July 1996, Castles: Ten of our several criteria including value rat- rope we cover. There’s a good deal of favorite castles and castle hotels. ing, quality rating, price, location and free information on the site, but only (You’ll have to update room prices Editor’s Choice. you as a subscriber have access to the and one of them, Schloss Matzen in We plan soon to launch a forum vast majority of it (see page 2 for the Austria, is no longer open.) at the site where visitors can post latest login ID and password). It’s a June 1997, Avoiding the Summer travel questions, pass on their own resource we at Gemütlichkeit use ev- Tourist Crush: A dozen interesting tips and advice, and comment in gen- ery day and if you have yet to browse and charming alternative destina- eral on Europe travel. During late it, you’re missing something. Go to tions to such household names as November through early December the site, click on “Members,” enter Salzburg, Lucerne, and Rothenburg you may see your editor’s trip reports the codes from page two of the latest that are often overrun with visitors. emailed daily from Europe. newsletter, choose the Archive or the May 1997, Brewery Drive: Starts Gemut.com will continue to grow Hotel Database. Here are just a few of in Germany and ends in the Czech as we add more stories, more pic- the stories that are as valid today as Republic. tures, more deals, perhaps even video when they were first published: January 1998, Bargain Bavaria: and, in the not too distant future, an December, 1994: 10 Favorite Less visited villages and inexpensive email version of Gemütichkeit. But Train Trips. Includes such trips as accommodations in southern Bavaria. whether it comes to you electronical- the Glacier Express and the “Transal- ly or via regular mail, Gemütlichkeit is pin“ Zürich to Vienna run. June 1999, Pedaling the Danube: where you will continue to find our How the novice cyclist can leisurely May, 1995: Driving in Europe. destination assessments, best value negotiate the famous Danube’s flat hotels and restaurants, off-the-beat- Advice on renting and driving a car bike path between Passau and Vienna. in Europe ends with five favorite en-track discoveries, and our some- backroads routes. We describe the November 2000, Swiss Walks: times cockeyed look at travel to Ger- scenery, the towns and villages, and Three Swiss cities, Samedan, Interlak- many, Austria and Switzerland. recommend hotels and restaurants. en and Lucerne, are a base of opera- Ahead in 2004 we see a substan- tions for a series of easy to moderate, tial increase in travel to Europe, high- August, 1995: Grand Tour is a but spectacular, mountain walks. suggested 14-day “open jaw” auto er airfares, stabilized car rental prices trip that begins in Zürich and ends in March 2000: Great Swiss Train and no increase in rail prices. Frankfurt. Three days are spent in Rides: Four celebrated Swiss rail Whether you’ve been with us for Munich and other stops include trips: the Golden Pass route, the Gla- all 17 years or this is your first issue, Wald-Schönengrund near St. Gallen, cier Express, the Bernina Express, we thank you for your support.— Appenzell, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, and the William Tell. RHB

Gemütlichkeit 7 December 03/January 04 http://www.gemut.com Austrian Country Hotel trips from Altaussee will take you all Readers’ Forum Your article on Austrian country over the Salzkammergut. It is not far hotels includes some quite elegant from any attraction, Salzburg includ- Breaking a Leg in St. Moritz lodgings – all great choices. One we ed. In February 1999, on the second visit or dine at on every trip to Grundl- ED AND THEA REILLY day of my Switzerland trip, I fell and see/Altaussee, is the Seevilla (Altaus- TORRANCE, CA broke my hip. I was in the hospital see, A-8992, tel. +43/03622/71302, fax Upgrade Not Easy on AA “Klinik Gut” in St. Moritz for 30 days. 71302-8, email: [email protected], web: I found your October column about Upon arrival at the Klinik, the one www.seevilla.at) located directly on air upgrades interesting, but not con- thing they did not ask me was to the lake looking up to the Loser moun- sistent with our experience with Amer- “show us proof of insurance.” In fact tain. It is “Old World,” reasonably ican Airlines’ AAdvantage the question of insurance did not come priced, great food (especially dinner Program. My wife is a platinum class up until the fourth day, at which time buffet – with local musicians), and at member and these are our recent expe- Dr. Urfur came in and said “Oh, by the one time hosted the composer, Brahms. riences. way, do you have insurance – we have Altaussee also includes one of the best no socialized medicine in Switzerland.” tailors and clothing stores in Austria – • Last November we booked econ- When I told him I had Blue Cross, he named Haselnus. Another store is lo- omy class to Zürich for a mid-May, replied, “That’s wonderful, they are cated nearby, Bad Aussee, and is 2003 trip — requested business class good to work with.” In fact I saw only owned by a wonderful couple, Georg mileage upgrades at 50,000 miles per one bureaucrat the whole time in re- and Traudi Haselnus. They custom- person — and had to wait until 10 days gard to the insurance. It took Blue make beautiful traditional clothing and before the flight to finally get upgrad- Cross seven and one-half months to also offer great stuff off the racks by ed. Although the request had been on pay Klinik Gut a total of $38,000 (the Schneider and Gössl of Salzburg. standby status for six months, we were entire bill, by the way). charged $50 for each upgrade as AA WILLIAM H WOOD, III What I got for my money: excellent chose to view the confirmation (e-tick- HOBE SOUND, FL treatment (I found out later that the ets so no paperwork involved) as a doctor was the Swiss Olympic bobsled More on Seevilla, Altaussee "rush" order! team’s doctor); excellent food (the Klin- Our week’s stay in the Seevilla • In April 2003 we inquired of AA's ik had an actual chef who would come (Editor’s note: see contact info above) platinum desk about again using 50k to my room every day in his big chef’s was marvelous. This was our second miles per person for a business class hat and ask me if the food was o.k. and visit and it certainly won’t be our last. upgrade to Rome for September 2003. what he could make different for me); If you haven’t been to Altaussee, I We were told there were no business and I also got staff who actually came think you’ll find it a delightful destina- class upgrades available for any trans- when I rang the bell. One thing I never tion. There is so much to see and do. atlantic flight for the entire month of got there was a lot of smart talk from The hotel has a spa and a pool, there is September (we weren't even queried as staff. swimming in the lake, there is a golf to what category coach tickets, so pre- course nearby and if anyone is into I couldn’t travel on a commercial sumably even a full fare coach ticket paragliding this is a center for that airliner, so Blue Cross arranged for me five months in advance wouldn't get sport. In the winter there is skiing and to come home in a Lear Jet (cost of the job done). We finally concluded snowboarding. The hiking is wonder- $40,000). my wife’s 400,000-plus AAdvantage ful. There are trails everywhere. Eating miles were becoming of limited value The first thing the doctor told me is a delight. If one tires of the cuisine in — our main goal being transatlantic on my arrival back in Minnesota: “you the hotel. (I really don’t know why upgrades — and we used 100,000 miles fell in the very best country in the they would, as it is excellent) there are each to fly coach to Rome. world; they are the experts when it a number of restaurants in the town May and September are the months comes to fractures.” and vicinity. Gasthof Loser is a favor- we typically travel to Europe, and it The Klinik had windows in the ite of ours. Every Thursday they have appears to us that using AA miles for room that you could actually open; I folk music. Every Tuesday they serve business class upgrades (at least at had real fresh air (try that in the United smoked trout. It is to die for. Owner those times) is no longer a realistic States!). In the afternoon they would Hans Glaser’s restaurant has been fea- option. As a result my wife has bring me up on the roof of the Klinik so tured in the gourmet magazine “Essen switched to Northwest which on a I could sit and enjoy the mountains and und Trinkin.” The town of Aussee is worst-case basis at least offers business the mountain air. five kilometers away. Excellent shop- class without restrictions for 160,000 ping here. An added inducement: all On the last day I was there (Febru- miles (theoretically also for 80,000, the salespeople in the town wear Tra- ary 29, 1999), when I was sitting on the which probably only works in the dead chten. The town of Aussee is near Lake roof, a butterfly came and landed next of winter). Those who make trips to Traunsee. A nice outing is to walk from to me. I found this unbelievable, as it Europe at off-peak times may be able Traunsee to Toplitzsee, a lake with a was still very much winter! After an to get some AA business class up- somewhat shady and mysterious past. instant, it flew off again. grades on occasion. Good luck! EORGE ULSTRAND Anyone interested in WWII would be G H BILL BOHNHOFF ILLMAR enjoy reading up on Toplitzsee. Day W MN VIA EMAIL Gemütlichkeit 8 December 03/January 04