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1971October.Pdf ^ By Audrey Fifield Morocco, together with Algeria and Tunisia, forms a clear geological block on the northwest corner of Africa. However, Morocco, lying as it does along both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea, and blocked from the interior extremes of temperature of the Sahara by the Atlas Mountains, has a very moderate climate comparitively. Moroccan dress differs little in appearance from that of Al¬ geria and Tunisia, garments being added or removed as weather demands. The couple shown is from the area near Fez. It would make little difference wer« they from Casa Blanca, Tangiers or any other area. Clothing varies more with status, occupation, and in the case of women especially, headdresses among the var¬ ious tribes. Articles of clothing are standard, and most have a male and female counterpart. Many articles of clothing for men and wom¬ en have the same name and purpose; some even look alike, but there is usually an unmistakable difference in cut and/or mat¬ erial. Over a long undergarment, known as a ohcmisa, literally, a French chemise, the man is wearing a aaftan (#1, page 3) of cotton or wool, maroon in color, and trimmed with braid. For town wear, plain dark blue is more common. On his head is a pointed cap,(#2, page 3)plain or embroidered, called a shishia. It might also be a skullcap in shaoe or the full-crowned, round top variety known as a tarboosh. Over all he has draped a albam (#3, page 3) which is held in place by a bandoleer type belt. On his feet are yellow leather babonohea, which he is wearing, with the heel piece turned in and trodden down. Men favor yel¬ low and women, red. There are many other colors but yellow for men and red for women is the rule, especially in the less elab¬ orately embroidered slippers. The firl is wearing, over her ahamisa, a aaftan of blue sat¬ in damask, and over that a h.ai,k of shear, lacy silk, draped in a distinctive manner, belted and caught at the shoulders by gold filigree and chains. Her necklaces are of gold, pearls, coins and beads of semi-precious stones. Her headband displays gold coins. For protection of her head and neck against the sun, she has draped a cotton scarf over her tasselled cap (#4, page 3), and secured it with two loops of fabric covered rope, ending in tassels tied at one side. The tassels on her knotted girdle are of wool, one red and one green. Possible alternate clothing, as shown; Djebbah (#5, page 4) is a rectangular piece of cotton, striped or plain, with a slit and tie for the neck. It falls mid-calf or full length and may be the only garment worn, or may be worn over a ahamisa, aaftan or trousers (#6, page *+). The trouser (aontinueddimensions areon givenpage 6)in 2 COSTUMES OF MOROCCO Sketahed hy Audrey Fifield / N / \ »ͣͣ #2 Shishia or tarboosh #4 Tassel Cap #1 Caftan •5 £ͣ A M •yO<^f^ Slbam (Burnous) IfSA^E Piate #2 COSTUMES OF MOWCCO Sketched by Audvey Fifield (Front) U Coat #7 Vest #5 Djebbah " JL 3^ CM 1.........u ..............1— :..... .....1......... i (1 /^' la.-? C-M / #6 Trousers /7CA» Vlate U 4 Coi i I n> o ceNTeRB/la-k a. i /7a«« >. centimeters.(aontinued from This page style 2) of trouser, and one cut straight a- cross the bottom with the leg extentions, is worn throughout the whole of north Africa, is made of a cotton cloth called isemall.The vest (#7, page 4) and jacket (#8, nage U) are of blue cloth, trimmed with red braid on the seams and edges, and lined with red calico. They may be worn with the trousers or over a ahamisa which may be an outside garment as well as an undergown. The distinguishing feature of the ohanisa is that it has no front opening and is otherwise cut much like a aaftan, A aaftan (#1, page 3) is a rather straight open front coat, which has slits on the side seams. It is usually of wool or heavy cotton for street wear, or of luxury materials for house coats. This garment is worn by both men and women. There is another garment of thin, filmy material worn over silken caftans just for its beauty. It is cut fuller than the ahamisa, but is opened all the vay down the front, buttoned on the chest only, and may be girdled with a belt of gold or silv¬ er and orecious stones. A man's garment is called a varasia, and #9,a woman's a djellaba, - it mayis abe full of lacelength - adjebbah, foquia. narrowed, and with sleeves added. Notice the airvents at the underarm. It may be opened up at the front and a hood added, flilO shows method of attaching hood. Any outdoor type cotton or wool will do, and it may be striped. This is the standard all enveloping garment worn by both men and women in public. (Refer to page 5). #3, page 3, is a buimous or slham as it is called in Morocco and serves as an overcoat. Notice the proportions, I have placed a small (x) at the base of the hood to mark the top of the shoulder at the neck. A quarter circle pattern can be drafted with a pencil and a piece of string as a compass. Meas¬ ure over the top of the head from (x) to (x), adding a couple inches for ease, and use one half of this measurement for hood extention. The desired height and depth of the hood (a square) determines the placement of the center back fold. Burnouses of the Sahara are cropped square across the tail for ease in riding, and are extended longer down the front openings, allow¬ ing the wearer longer tails for wrapoing himself securely. The only closing is a piece of filling added on the chest, about 20 centimetersThe haik long,for men v;ith is buttonsa five yard or ties. piece of woolen cloth drap¬ edthe about ends the tucked body underin various a turban. ways, A woman'seven over haik the is head of orvarious with materials, depending upon the use to which it is put. As shown in #12, page 6, it takes the place of the foquia or sheer over¬ dress. Among desert tribes it may be the only garment vjom, and it is identical to the peplos or ahiton of Classic Greece, thoughFigures somewhat 11 and narrower. 12 show method of draping the haik and its thefinal waist. anpearance - - hopefully. The sides are quite onen above 6 DANCE t952 l^n^^u^ Oct^^ex f97t COUNTRY ISSUE YEAR Agattanz Austria A Ja Tzo Sarita April 1961 Moravia Nov 1959 Alan ds flick en Sweden Almelose Kermisse May 1964 Netherlands Nov W^lunelul 1962 Romania Dec 1956 Angus Macleod Scotland Mar Anneli Walzer 1965 Switzerland Dec 1964 Anniversary Progressive Two-Step England Jan i^'Apat Apat 1968 Philippines 1965 ) Arap Hay Bulgaria May 1958 Aredje Di Malimpre Belgium Dec Ardeleana Cu Figuri 1954 Romania Mar 19 70 V^rgo Hasapiko Greece Feb Armenian Misirlou 1970 Armenia Apr 1962 A Trip to Paris England At Va'ani May 1959 Israel May 1969 Austrian Dreisteyrer Austria Oct Azul Cielo 1952 Mexico Aug/Sept 1967 Baanopstekker Netherlands Baile Da Camacha Mar 1958 Portugal Baint an Fheir Aug/Sept 1958 Ireland Dec 1961 Ballos from Chios Greece July 195 7 Ballos from Kassos Greece Nov 1963 Bandura Kozachok Ukraine l--Bavno Oro Feb 1964 Macedonia Nov Bekadorfer Quadrille 1956 Bela Rada Germany May 1964 Serbia Apr 1956 t/-'Belasi6ko Serbia Bella Franca Apr 1969 Catalonia Nov Bialy Mazur 1966 Poland Jan 1964 Biddy the Basketwoman Ireland Mar Bluebell Waltz 1957 Scotland Dec Bohmischer Landler 1959 Austria Feb 1968 Bona Habanoth Israel July 1956 Bourree Carree de St, Chartier France Bourree Crolsees May 19 70 France Feb 1966 France Bourree Droite du Pays Fort June/July 1969 Boyfriend Oberek Poland Oct Brandiswalser 1965 Switzerland Aor 1955 Bridge of Athlone (The) Ireland May 1952 »^(fa6ak Serbia Jan 1957 Cardas Z Kosickych Hamrov Slovakia Oct 1957 l darlama Serbia Castillana Aug/Sept 1968 Spain Apr 19 70 Dances Published through October 1971 (continued) COUNTRY ISSUE YEAR DANCE 1967 fr Setvorka Macedonia Hay Germany Dec 1966 Changier Quadrille Switzerland May 1958 Chilbitanz Mar 1971 Chotis del Norte Mexico Jugoslavia Feb 1967 Ciganiico 1957 Croatia/ Aug/Sept l/Ciro Slavonia Slovenia Feb 1957 Clap and Turn 1958 Columbine Mazurka Poland/America June/July Haiti Sept 19 5U Congo Mallorca Apr 1964 Copeo de Hunt any a Greece Mar 1963 »/Couple Hasapiko Croatia Get 1971 l/Croatian Waltz Get . 196U Csardas from Ecser Hungary Dec 1959 Cumberland Peel Scotland Sweden Aug 1954 Daldans Volumes Aug/Sept 1955 Dance Description Errata Nov 1952 Dance Lightly Germany Denmark June 1957 Danish Family Circle 1964 Frances Aug/Sept Danse Alsacienne 1962 Das Fenster Germany Aug/Sept May 1963 De Kolom Belgium Feb 1971 t. Denjovo Horo Bulgaria Netherlands Feb 1965 De Vlegerd Netherlands Feb 1965 D' Hamme rs chraieds g'se lln Jan 1953 Dodi Li Israel Don't Look Back, the Wolf Romania Mar 1971 is Coming Dospatsko Horo Bulgaria June/July 1971 Doudlebska Polka Czechoslovakia Get 1955 Switzerland Dec 1956 Dr Gsatzlig Drmeg for Three Croatia June/July 1963 Drme^ from ZdenCinia Croatia Nov 1958 Dutch Foursome England July 1952 Dec 1965 Ecossaise Germany Israel Apr 1958 Eh Hatal Oct 1968 Ein Zwei Drei Germany Jan 1963 El Caballero Early Calif. U.S.
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