When Jewelry Meets Art & Design

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US Special Edition Summer 2017 - Issue 141 Featuring Muriel Grateau / Buccellati / Coco Chanel / Roger Thomas / Louisa Guinness

Visionary WHEN JEWELRY MEETS ART & DESIGN SIGNITY AMERICAS LTD. SIGNITY AMERICAS LTD. SWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM SWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM SWAROVSKI GEMSTONES BUSINESS GEMSTONES SWAROVSKI BUSINESS GEMSTONES SWAROVSKI [email protected] [email protected]

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BORNBORN FROM FROM A TRADITION A TRADITION OF OF MASTERMASTER CRAFTSMANSHIP CRAFTSMANSHIP VISIT VISITSWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM SWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM KARLIE KLOSSKARLIE KLOSS

SG_AD_VO_US_424x300.inddSG_AD_VO_US_424x300.indd 2 2 12/04/17 12/04/1716:52 16:52 SIGNITY AMERICAS LTD. SIGNITY AMERICAS LTD. SIGNITY AMERICAS LTD. SWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM SWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM SWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM SWAROVSKI GEMSTONES BUSINESS GEMSTONES SWAROVSKI BUSINESS GEMSTONES SWAROVSKI BUSINESS GEMSTONES SWAROVSKI [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

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BORNBORNBORN FROMFROM FROM AA TRADITIONTRADITION A TRADITION OFOF OF MASTERMASTERMASTER CRAFTSMANSHIPCRAFTSMANSHIP CRAFTSMANSHIP VISITVISIT VISITSWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COMSWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM SWAROVSKI-GEMSTONES.COM KARLIEKARLIE KLOSSKARLIE KLOSS KLOSS

SG_AD_VO_US_424x300.inddSG_AD_VO_US_424x300.inddSG_AD_VO_US_424x300.indd 2 2 2 12/04/1712/04/17 12/04/1716:52 16:52 16:52 ARIZONA MUSE FOR ROBERTO COIN® | robertocoin.com NEW BAROCCO & CENTO COUTURE SHOW - PALMER BALLROOM COLLECTIONS ARIZONA MUSE FOR ROBERTO COIN® | robertocoin.com NEW BAROCCO & CENTO COUTURE SHOW - PALMER BALLROOM COLLECTIONS

DIAMAJEWELRY.COM | [email protected] — 11 Contents Issue 141 · US Special Edition · Summer 2017

p. 78

Edit 36 Hoops Are Back 21 Statement Choker 38 Free Flowing 22 Gold Volume 40 Pink Allure 24 Arty Earrings Moodboard Point Of View 42 Barbara Donninelli 26 Contemporary Insight Exhibition Meet The Buyer 44 Irving Penn, The Centennial 28 The Artisanal Way Confidential Tribute 46 A Family Affair 30 Signs Of Seduction Heritage Talking 48 Timeless Treasures 32 Jewelry Goes Live 50 Italian Excellence

Trends Special Project 34 Madama Butterfly 53 Portraits 12 — Contents Issue 141 · US Special Edition · Summer 2017

p. 90

p. 42 p. 58

Muriel Grateau Maria Tash 58 Muriel In Black 100 The Art Of Piercing

Buccellati / Valli 108 Inspirational Journey 64 Couture Allure 114 Wearable Visions

68 Techno Bling Highlights 74 Talent Overseas 78 Chromatic 102 State Of Black Roger Thomas 86 Design Is The Rule The Voices 118 News from IEG Chanel Joaillerie 90 Coco Avant Chanel 123 Flash News

Pomellato Last Word 96 A Portrait Of Success 128 Dreamlike VINCENZAORO US_messika_06/17.indd 1

ANDREEA DIACONU BY TERRY RICHARDSON - MESSIKA.COM NOTHING BUTDIAMONDS MY TWIN COLLECTION MY TWIN 20/04/17 13:08 14 — Editor's Letter

Visionary

COCO CHANEL, Muriel Grateau, Louisa Guinness, Elisabetta Cipriani, Deborah Nicodemus and Ippolita Rostagno. These are just some of the authoritative voices we will be hosting in this issue of VO+ Usa. Why have we had them 'speak' among these pages? Because of their undeniable intuition and vision from which the mood that links the stories we have reported takes its cue and develops: Visionary. When jewelry meets art and design. The intuition of Ippolita Rostagno with her digital platform, Artemest, in which she promotes and makes room for Made in Italy craftsmanship; the strategic vision of Deborah Nicodemus, who also ap- plies the Moda Operandi model of ‘pre-order runway fashion’ to jewelry; the concept of ‘wearable art’, a way to make the artist's jewelry more democratic thanks to the patronage of the two London-based art gallery owners, Louisa Guinness and Elisabetta Cipriani. And lastly, the stylistic intuition handed on from France under the name of Coco Chanel and designer Muriel Grateau, modern and visionary for having 'dressed' lacquer, onyx and rock crystal in preciousness in re- sponse to her need to always have with her an easy- to-wear sculptured jewelry item. Celebratory pages in which jewelry comes somewhere between art and design, between modernity and authoritativeness - with a special tribute to the collection by Ettore Sottsass for Cleto Munari - giving value to a concept of jewelry that, while freeing itself from being a mere ornamental decorativism, feeds on exclusiveness and character.

Federica Frosini

On the cover. 'Ghirlanda Green Tara’ necklace in rose and white gold with light and deep green chrysoprase and diamonds, Pasquale Bruni.

16 — Contributors

KATHRYN RACHAEL DONATELLA ANNA GIANUZZI BISHOP TAYLOR ZAPPIERI & STEFANO MARINO She has written about A freelance journalist A language graduate jewelry and watches based in London who from Geneva University A team on the set, a for several publications spends her days writ- and with twenty years’ couple in life. Work- and organizations. She ing about the rarefied experience in the jew- ing together in com- is an executive of the worlds of jewelry and elry sector, Donatella plimentary roles, they Women's Jewellery As- watches for publications currently helps jewelry follow the shot from sociation UK, and the around the globe, Ra- companies start up new idea to post production youngest member of chael is the founding ed- jewelry lines and reposi- with the aim of offering the Goldsmiths’ Craft & itor of the UK business tion themselves through perfection down to the Design Council. In 2016 magazines Professional a fresh approach. She last detail. They prefer she was named in Retail Jeweller and WatchPro. also teaches Design watches, jewelry and ac- Jeweler’s 30 Under 30, Management at vari- cessories for which they and praised for her «un- ous universities in both have shot well-known rivalled knowledge of the Milan and Geneva. campaigns. jewelry industry.»

18 — Masthead

Editor-in-Chief FEDERICA FROSINI

COO ROBERTO ROSSI GANDOLFI

Creative Director DIDIER FALZONE

Editorial Team Senior Editor ARIANNA L.B. PINTON Editors MATTEO GUIZZARDI, ANTONELLA REINA Editorial Office ROSSELLA BEVIVINO [email protected]

Contributors Katherine Bishop, Amber Faith, GianuzziMarino, Diane Lutkin, Giulia Romani, Patrizia Rovaris, Francesca Squillante, Rachael Taylor, Martina Zanicotti, Donatella Zappieri

Advertising STUDIO EDITORIALE S.R.L. Via Garofalo 31 - 20133 Milano [email protected]

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Amen_aprile2017.indd 1 10/04/17 09:59 — 21

Statement Edit Choker

he collection is called Tatouage and is T a tribute to fashion chokers of the Nineties. Made exclusively in black gold, with light spirals in white diamonds to create a sensual interlacing, the choker by French-Algerian designer, Anissa Kermiche, is this season's cult item. Worn like an indelible tattoo, the Tatouage choker combines the desire for a precious touch with an extremely contemporary un- derstated style. 22 — Edit

Gold Volume

hite, yellow and red gold embellished with white diamonds. Combining noble materials in well- W defined volumes, using sophisticated production techniques gets you a pair of rings with a very polished design. Credit for the Italian twosome goes to Turin brand Sardo, led by architect Elena Sardo and engineer Fabio Stigliano, who designed the rings for the Passion collection. A new journey has begun toward a refined style and it can be found in the rings Filling the Emptiness and Fireworks • JCK LAS VEGAS - Booth S10046 VICENZAORO - Pad. 2, booth 270 24 — Edit

Arty Earrings

he history of contemporary art and T its most significant movements are at the heart of Untitled, a new collection created by Stephanie Wenk, Art Director of Amsterdam Sauer, one of Brazil's most famous jewelry brands. The design of the new creations dialogues with abstract or figurative shapes and colors that are dear to some artistic currents, like Cubism, Surre- alism, Pop Art and Expres- sionism, generating a series of unmistakable earrings with an irreverent, positive and pleasant soul • ITALIAN JEWELLERY

Firenze

trade shows: LAS VEGAS • VICENZA • BASEL • MADRID

999 • Florence - Italy • Customers service +39 055 331077 [email protected] • www.novecentonovantanove.com IMMERSED IN BEAUTY 26 — BEYOND TIME Point of View

STARTING from the Seventies and throughout the Eighties, creativity in the Italian fashion field was in full bloom. They were the years in which Made in Italy overto- ok any other market, especially the French one, something that had never happened before. Ugo Correani stood out among the big names in Italian bijoux for having adapted his aesthetics to the style of whoever commissioned his collections, while other great interpreters of Made in Italy, like Coppola e Toppo, Donatella Pel- lini or Ornella Bijoux, aimed for much more recognizable jewelry with a strong identity.

THE PANORAMA has now changed. The currentness of fashion jewelry is, above all, the ability to attract many different types of woman. Compared to Fine Jewelry, which finds it more difficult to express a modern concept, fashion jewelry is an alternative in line with the trend of the moment, conditioned by a constant change in taste. And while Fine Jewelry primarily requires raw material quality, what drives the item is also its selling point. The opposite is true for bijoux jewels. The quality of the raw materials takes a back seat to design. There are another two ingredients that make contemporary fashion jewelry up-to-date: irony and fun. An easygoing approach that many designers – like Gucci, Miu Miu Contemporary Insight and Dolce & Gabbana – are now adopting not only gives them grea- KARIZIA SpA Exhibitions: Italian creativity, between Fine and Fashion Jewelry, ter freedom in their designs, it also Via Perosi 18/20 36022 CASSOLA (VI) VICENZA as seen by JJ Martin, founder of La Double J. releases them from conventions, placing bijoux in unusual and less ITALY FRIBURGO Ph. +39 0424 511442 AREZZO by MATTEO GUIZZARDI Portrait by ALBERTO ZANETTI mundane contexts. Fax +39 0424 511286 HONG KONG www.karizia.it LAS VEGAS IMMERSED IN BEAUTY BEYOND TIME

KARIZIA SpA Exhibitions: Via Perosi 18/20 36022 CASSOLA (VI) VICENZA ITALY FRIBURGO Ph. +39 0424 511442 AREZZO Fax +39 0424 511286 HONG KONG www.karizia.it LAS VEGAS 28 — Meet the Buyer

Ippolita Rostagno knows exactly what Americans want when they talk about luxury and jewels. The Florentine jewel designer has lived in the U.S. for thirty years, and thanks to her iconic collection – which has graced the red carpet on the likes of Re- ese Witherspoon, Cameron Diaz and Penelope Cruz – she has become one of the leading ambassadors of quality Italian production overseas.

When she realized that many Italian artisans were closing their workshops because of the financial crisis, Rostagno decided to do something to support them in exporting their own marvels to the star- spangled market. That is how Artemest came about, the website where you can buy the best of luxury Italian craftsmanship: from De Simo- ne’s coral jewels to sculptural pieces by the young Roman duo Co.Ro, and even Bitossi and Paravicini.

What made you decide to launch the Artemest project? Artemest came from the need and sense of duty to preserve a very important part of Ita- lian cultural heritage: workmanship and arts and crafts The Artisanal Way that have made this country famous the world over. The e-commerce platform Artemest, founded by jewelry designer Ippolita Rostagno, exports the most sought-after luxury – What services do you offer artisans that choose the Italian and otherwise – artisanal objects. ‘support’ of your platform? by MATTEO GUIZZARDI Portrait by TROY WORD Artemest supports the best — 29

artisanal Italian companies, promoting and distributing their products in foreign markets. This backing co- vers everything from the choice of products to marketing and on to logistics. The How has the opinion of project recreates a curated ‘Made in Italy’ changed in online environment with vi- the last few years? Has it be- deos, photos and editorials come a ‘brand’ that appeals that valorize the quality of even to Millennials? the products and the won- ‘Made in Italy’ has always derful work that distingui- been synonymous with shes them. Artemest ships excellence, meticulousness to about 65 countries and and uncompromised quality. this gives small-to-medium While this is an unquestio- artisanal businesses the op- From top, clockwise. about ‘Made in Italy,’ par- nable advantage for Italian Paola Grande rock crystal cuff detail; portunity to showcase their ' Aliseo ' screen room divider, Pier Luigi ticularly concerning jewelry, manufacturers, it also en- products internationally. Frighetto by Black Tie; 'High Sound' and how do you choose your compasses a responsibility to enameled bronze bracelet by Fabio Cammarata and Kathaline Page Guth designers? make products and services What do Americans like morganite and diamonds earrings. Americans like care and qua- that are up the standards of lity, which are guaranteed in the ‘Made in Italy’ brand, to handmade Italian products. protect and valorize it even Beauty is the recurring theme further. An e-commerce tool in our choices. coupled with such a vast assortment like that of Arte- What is the key of your suc- mest, represents the quest for cess? this meeting point, and it is a We chose to not sell well- successful formula to draw in known brands but to try to an audience of Millennials, shine the spotlight on hid- who are always looking for den gems on the design and unique products that embody Italian artisan scene, which their story as well as authen- is still so unchartered. This tic quality. makes Artemest a one-of-a- kind destination that sets it apart from its competitors. 30 — Tribute , limited edition designed for Cleto Munari . Munari Cleto designed edition for , limited Seduzione Ettore Sottsass, La

Signs of Seduction

«HE WANTED to be called an from design to architecture to their fascination today. This architect, not an artist, ‘he fashion, creating La Seduzione highly successful collection who takes care of others’, be- for Cleto Munari. Jewelry in was displayed in the most cause architecture is ‘lived in’ coral, lapis lazuli, onyx, ebo- important contemporary art while art is ‘looked at’, and the ny, rock crystal and enamel in museums – MOMA and MET difference is fundamental», as an interplay of architectonic in New York, Centre Georges his wife, Barbara Radice says compositions that translate Pompidou and Musée des of him. Ettore Sottsass esca- the most advanced figurative Arts Décoratifs in Paris and pes all definitions: he went studies into gold and still hold V&A in London. [A.P.]

32 — Talking

What is Moda Operandi’s DNA? It is ‘runway fashion’. We are the only company offering pre-order runway fashion, giving us a unique position in the marketplace. Our goal is to continue to connect our consumers to designers through our online platform. Clients are given the chance to purchase looks without being limited to the edited selection made by a traditional retailer, omitting the fear of missing out on a piece they love.

What are the key points of your business model? Launched in 2011 as the very first pre-order fashion site featuring designer collections straight from the runway, our core business – Trunkshow – puts the client first and allows her to make a purchase directly from the runway. We apply this model not only to fashion, but to Fine Jewelry and accessories.

Ho w does Fine Jewelry count for your business? We started with Fine Jewelry in 2014 using our Trunkshow model. Our clients were looking for jewelry that met the same criteria we are known for in ready-to-wear: quality, curation, and access. In the past twelve months, we have seen an 80% increase in Fine Jewelry sales and look to dou- Jewelry Goes Live ble that this year. Deborah Nicodemus, CEO of the online platform Moda Operandi, Any figures to give us? talks about the retail renaissance they started at the beginning, The format is the same as thanks to access, quality, customer care, their curating process and ready-to-wear Trunkshows: clients pay a 50% deposit brick-and-mortar spaces. by FEDERICA FROSINI — 33

Facing page. with delivery between one Deborah Nicodemus, CEO week to three months. The- Moda Operandi. re are eight to ten jewelry Left. New York Madison showroom. Trunkshows live at one time Below. Jewelry by and they are shoppable for Federica Rettore. fo u r weeks. Fine Jewelry has three price point ran- ges: >$1,500, >$5,000 and >$10,000. The average order price is $7,000, highly influenced by the top tier of prices, as we often sell one-of- a-kind >$50,000. However, the showroom assortments (London and New York) are di fferent. There are typically five designers and the assortment remains in the showrooms for five weeks. Our sales mix by country is relatively balanced with 60% in the US and the remaining 40% split between Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Moda to provide clients with custom to commissioned de- What are the differences signs across all merchandise between selling online and categories. in showrooms? Moda Operandi is a high- Apparel and Fine Jewelry. tech, high-touch company, How do they relate to each which has been a core value. other? As an Internet pure player, There is a tremendous syner- we needed to offer an offline gy. Our goal is to replicate the experience, hence the deve- excitement and energy of the lopment of our showrooms runway in our Fine Jewelry (London 2014, New York Trunkshows as well as the 2016). These function by spontaneity of the runway invitation for our existing model with jewelry shows clients and provide oppor- throughout the world, which tunities for new referrals. we tested in February after We opened London first to Vicenzaoro. learn the inherent challenges of operating a business What do you look for in a where we weren't physical- jewelry designer? ly present. The showrooms A distinct design style and follow the same format as impeccable craftsmanship, our Trunkshow model, pre- but we are also looking for senting new collections and ta lent that embodies our emerging talents throughout br and's identity of being the year. They offer a highly fashion forward and a pio- elevated experience enabling neer within his or her craft. 34 — Trends

1 Madama Butterfly

What takes off from the sketchbooks of the most refined jewelry houses is a highly Couture flight. Wings decorated with precious stone 2 mosaics, enameled gold and shining embroideries elevate brooches, rings and earrings to true masterpieces.

3 Madama Butterfly — 35

1. GLENN SPIRO 2. SUTRA 3. GOLDIAQ 4. CARLO BARBERIS 5. AIDA BERGSEN 6. YEWN 7. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS 8. TABBAH. Look. GUCCI F/W17

4 5

6 8

7 36 — Trends

Hoops are Back

One of the more traditional styles 5 in history, hoop earrings are back to becoming synonymous with contemporary femininity. Featuring colored stones or white diamonds, classic pearls or punk studs, they are the new symbol of a timeless elegance.

3 4 Hoops are Back — 37

1. VENYX 2. DAOU JEWELLERY 3. NANCY NEWBERG 4. CHARLOTTE CHESNAIS 5. KIM MEE HYE 6. VANLELES 7. LOUIS VUITTON 8. ANABELA CHAN 9. CARLA AMORIM 10. NIKOS KOULIS Look. MARC JACOBS F/W 17

7 8

9 6

10 38 — Trends

Free Flowing

Fluid like water, sinuous like a snake, lively like waves. Following a new modernist trend, rings, necklaces, bracelets and earrings stand out for a lightweight and sculptural design, featuring free-form lines which give the effect of real harmonic 2 movements.

3 Free Flowing — 39

1. SABINE GETTY 2. XENIA BOUS 3. ANISSA KERMICHE 4. DE GRISOGONO 5. OBLIK ATELIER 6. MAURIZIO PINTALDI 7. FABIO CAMMARATA 8. SARA ROBERTSSON 9. ANNELISE MICHELSON Look ELLERY F/W 2017

8 40 — Trends

Pink Allure

All colors, from the light lilac of kunzite to the transparency of morganite and vivacious forays 2 into pink sapphire, reach the more sumptuous plateaux of High Jewelry.

3 Pink Allure — 41

1. SAMMIE JO COXON 2. LE VIAN 3. ALESSIO BOSCHI 4. SARA HO 5. SUSANNE SYZ 6. GIOVANNI FERRARIS 7. CHANEL JOAILLERIE 8. KATHALINE PAGE-GUTH 9. INESIENE 10. FEATHERSTONE Look VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2017

91 42 —

Moodboard Dior Joaillerie

Seminato Mercadante DESIGN Barbara «I’ve always kept a close eye on the work of Roberto Poli. He has created innova- Donninelli tive furnishings for Ligne Roset, Nemo Cassina and Artemide and he recently founded his own design studio, Seminato Mercadante.» Barbara Donninelli

TRENDS «I like fairy tales and story- telling; I adore everything Victoire De Castellane created for Dior Joail- lerie. Pairing precious stones and contrasting colors is incredible.» Photographer Barbara Donninelli is well- known all over the world for her ability to create animated and surreal scenes with a strong pop Barbara Donninelli vibe. Her work in luxury INSPIRATION and high fashion has «My mood board always has flowers, given her the opportu- an element that constantly inspires me nity to work with maga- for its balance in form and color.» zines, such as Vogue, Evelyne Axell Harper’s Bazaar, Tatler ART and L’Officiel. Her pho- «I’ve always been inspired by surrealism, the work tos have complemented of Magritte or Madame Yevonde. Pop Art – from advertising campaigns Hockney to Allen Jones – is also important, and that’s of fashion houses like not forgetting Dorothy Ian- none and Evelyne Axell.» Estée Lauder, Hermès and Kate Spade. Tom Wesselmann by MATTEO GUIZZARDI Barbara Donninelli

44 — Exhibition — 45

Irving Penn, The Centennial

Left. Irving Penn, THE PROPHET — Naomi Sims of ‘less is brand Clinique that is still shoots dedicated to his wife, in Scarf, New more,’ the hero of iconic all the rage today, even on Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn, and York, ca. 1969. Above. Irving minimalism, the man who Instagram. Until July 30, the delicate still lifes, all the way Penn, Mouth (for invented a new concept of extraordinary creativity and to photos taken during his L’Oréal), New York, 1986. marketing communication genius aesthetic of Irving travels to Peru and New in the Sixties — by shooting Penn are the protagonists of Guinea and portraits of Courtesy of The Metropolitan a still-life photography cam- the Centennial exhibition, at personalities he was fond of, Museum of Art, paign using product bottles New York’s Met Museum. including Picasso, Ingmar New York. © The Irving and makeup cases for the Over 200 photographs are Bergman and Issey Miyake. Penn Foundation. renowned dermo-cosmetic on display: from the fashion [M.G.] 46 — Confidential

family. Blue-eyed and in- A Family Affair credibly sharp, he describes a meticulous and very Antique jewels, savoir faire and treasures from times past. demanding clientele: «After In Milan, the historic jeweler Pennisi reveals the tastes, stories my thesis, I couldn’t get rid of this thing called passion,» by ANTONELLA REINA and curiosities of a very special clientele. he reveals in the tea room of the Grand Hotel et de Mi- lan, which is right next to his renowned store on Via IF ANTIQUE JEWELS are by Giovanni Pennisi, a dia- Manzoni. «Our customers synonymous with passion, mantaire and the grandson are sophisticated people then they have converged of a Catania gold jeweller. that know that if they want at Gioielleria Pennisi, the Today it is one of the city’s to buy an antique jewel, they exclusive Milan boutique most iconic jewelry stores, can find it at our store.» And where the past is in the spot- and a point of reference for their clientele vaunts cele- light with collections that de- collectors and antique jewel- brity names, often from the

Gioielleria Pennisi is fine the history and culture ry aficionados from all over world of glamour: «Fashion located in the heart of yesteryear. Located in the the world. Emanuele Fer- has always been linked to of Milan, next to the renowned Grand fashion quadrilateral of Mi- reccio Pennisi represents antique jewels, perhaps be- Hotel et de Milan. lan, it was opened in 1971 the third generation of the cause of the perpetual thirst — 47

Right. Beatrice Borromeo wears an Art Déco necklace and earrings from Pennisi at The Rose Ball in Montecarlo, 2015.

of designers in search of new us that, after the success of inspiration. I see industry large, showy nineteenth- people who have been co- century earrings, this is the ming to our boutique since year of brooches and rings: I was a child.» «Colorful rings that don’t have to be ultra-precious. THIS MIGHT BE why Ema- The most desirable, because nuele is so up to minute on of their rarity, go back to the the latest trends, in addition late eighteenth or early nine- to being an expert on the hi- teenth century: many used story of jewels and gemology, in France and England, cre- A pair of Edwardian platinum, gold and diamond earrings, circa 1910. fundamental skills for this ated with royal-blue enamel line of work. He tells us the and decorated with diamon- top-selling stones today are ds or precious stones.» Their one of the most influential her a lot. We were always rubies, emeralds and sapphi- bond with fashion is further designers in fashion, a great close and she gave us a lot res, and that diamonds are strengthened through a spe- lover of jewelry and a regu- of advice. Every once in a still the most popular with cial relationship they culti- lar at their boutique: «Miuc- while, she’d come by and the Milanese. He also tells vated with Miuccia Prada, cia Prada knows what she choose something. She wants, she adores jewelry; loved nineteenth-century she has a lot and has bought jewels above all, wore many a lot from us. She looks for necklaces, bracelets and ear- unusual things, and they rings, and was quite partial don’t necessarily have to be to cameos.» precious. She has vision that goes beyond ‘status’ and she probably wants to be asto- nished.»

PENNISI ALSO had the pri- vilege of sharing his passion and research with Franca

A yellow gold and platinum blue enameled ring, with a center Sozzani, a special ambas- brilliant-cut diamond, Italy, circa 1960. sador to his store: «We owe 48 — Heritage / Auctions Heritage

Timeless Treasures

Faraone Casa d’Aste embodies the savoir faire of centuries of history.

A NEW EXCLUSIVE auction mitted to the auction of Fine pre-Daytona Rolex watches a new modernized product house has been launched by Jewelry masterpieces, inclu- were among the pieces on philosophy, presented by the Faraone Gioielli. Just after ding jewels from the last cen- exhibit or for sale. Further- new CEO Vittoria Bianchi: its third successful auction tury and those that belonged more, in 1989, Faraone was «There are markets that still on 8 May (its first was on to famous women, such as the one to launch Tiffany & appreciate the manufacture 16 June 2016, with over Maria Callas, Ingrid Berg- Co.’s brand in Italy. of the last century, realized two million euros in units man and Queen Margaret with precious metals and sold, and then a Christmas of Savoy, who had a unique AFTER MANY great strides, stones whose characteri- auction held on 23 Novem- diamond parure. At the stun- the Italian company relaun- stics are impossible to find ber, with over 1.5 million eu- ning Four Seasons Hotel, ex- ched in 2012 with a new today. The idea is to bring ros earned), Faraone Casa perts from the team offered a showroom on Via Montena- these masterpieces back to d’Aste is ready for a new one-of-a-kind chance to have poleone, 9 and introduced light, giving those who have appointment next fall. The high-end jewels and watches the fortune of owning them company, run by Faraone quoted, traded or sold, as the opportunity to sell them Gioielli — the historic Italian well as auctioned off on Fa- and replace them with more Yellow and white gold brooches Fine Jewelry brand founded raone’s circuit: an impressi- current jewels.» from Sabbadini, one of which has in 1860 — is expressly com- ve Burma ruby and two rare a diamond pavé setting. [A. P.]

50 — Heritage

1990s

2017

Italian Excellence Picchiotti celebrates its fiftieth anniversary.

IN 2017, Picchiotti celebra- ne, Picchiotti wanted to cre- center ruby, which is bathed tes fifty years as one of the ate a jewel that captured the in diamond limelight, and leading jewelry manufac- essence of the brand’s style: dazzles you with extraordi- turers in the world. Based exuberance, excitement and nary vivacity and an intense in Valenza, Picchiotti has sublime elegance. These are color. marked five decades of ma- the key points that led to the This virtual jewelry gallery king High-End Jewelry, epi- new Anfiteatro ring, which — from 1967 to 2017 — gi- tomizing the spirit of crafts- was inspired by a classic am- ves Picchiotti a special pla- manship. To pay tribute to phitheater. The ring features ce among the finest jewelry this extraordinary milesto- an exceptional 8.05-carat houses in the world. [A.P.] Heritage / Celebration — 51

1960-1970s

1980s

In these pages.'Rose' brooch, 1967- 1979; 'Colonna Romana' necklace, 1980; 'Ruby Cascade' necklace, 1990; 'Amphitheater' ring, 2017. The world's premier Website vo-plus.com jewelry lifestyle destination 598,000 Monthly Unique Users

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230,300 Total pageviews vo-plus.com our interpreters of contemporary jewelry, four styles that speak of new horizons and just as many Fine Jewelry challenges. The ‘Portraits’ project welcomes the voices of a Fgroup of independent designers, the representatives of a renewed stylistic virtuosity made up of deco- rum, irony, spirituality and creative risk. From Turkey to Greece, from New York to Brazil, the bejeweled portraits in this harmonious portfolio summarize the artistic capacity to devise a new way of making jewelry. There is the oneiric, almost Gothic face of Turkish designer Aida Bergsen, who has taken possession of a concept of decorative and timeless richness, and the perky and lively design of Brazilian Carla Amorim. Also present is the spiritual jewelry of designer Netali Nissim, that all-protective eye presented from a glamour viewpoint, as well as the tortuous abstractionism of the Greek, Evan, who slips into this photograph of precious portraits with splendid fluidity. A game dominated by aesthetic visions that are miles apart, but that, in its own way, is united by the desire to speak out loud through chameleon-like creativity. Aida Bergsen

«Jewelry that overflows with mean- the sinuous lines of the female body. ing and high artisan value is never out «I try to re-interpret the handcrafted of fashion since it is able to express values of jewelry with a contemporary the personality of the person wear- approach. I like to bring a game of light ing it.» Aida Bergsen, designer and and shade to life, in order to capture sculptor based in Istanbul, advocates the shape in its entirety,» says the a particular aesthetic language in designer who enhances all her crea- which substance and form chat to- tions by using top-quality materials. «I PORTRAITS gether spiritedly to generate highly adore using yellow and pink gold, black detailed jewelry, animated by different rhodium and oxidized silver, combining inspirations. Rings, bracelets, earrings them with rubies, diamonds — prefer- and pendants are authentic miniature ably rose-cut — and emeralds. But I sculptures that emulate the shapes of must admit to having a weakness for nature with mythological heroes and corals and opals.» VO+ SPECIAL PROJECT PROJECT SPECIAL VO+

Aida Bergsen. Gold and oxidized silver ‘Convolvulus Sepium’ ring with glass enamel and diamonds. Carla Amorim. ‘ Never Solitaire’ earrings in gold with pink tourmalines from the ‘Eternamente’ collection. PORTRAITS

Carla Amorim

«I always wear a rosary on my finger, made with stones and precious ma- next to my wedding band, to protect terials,» she says. «I love to use gold,

what means the most to me, my fam- diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and PROJECT SPECIAL VO+ ily.» Carla Amorim is a Brazilian de- tourmalines.» Convinced that some signer with strong traditional values jewelry «can be worn for both impor- who instills the power and beauty of tant and daily events,» Carla generates her native country in her creations. creations that celebrate female beauty Nature in all its forms, the geometric in a contemporary manner. Aloe vera, architecture of Brasilia — her home city Falling Leaves, Moon Valley, Sugar forged from the wonderful geometric Cane are the names of just a few of lines of Oscar Niemeyer —and her faith her items that evoke the exuberant are the main sources of inspiration flora of Brazil and testify the designer's from which her jewelry comes to life. great passion for the diverse cultures «Timeless, feminine, elegant jewelry of her country. Evan. ‘Tattoo’ collection earrings with diamonds and sapphires. PORTRAITS

Evan

Creating is a meditative process for and the importance of every single Evan Tsoukalas who, before making detail. Today, his brand, Evan, is syn- a new collection, grips each stone onymous of dream and enchantment, in his hands to feel the energy and two ideas well captured in the con-

VO+ SPECIAL PROJECT PROJECT SPECIAL VO+ understand how to best give them temporary design of jewelry created value. «Every collection I create is like to make every woman special. «I love a love story. Deciding which stones to design and create jewels to offer to use, discovering the origins and something unique to women. I believe history, makes me fall in love every that every diamond is unique, just time,» says the Greek designer, who like every woman.» And if diamonds has a lengthy jewelry tradition behind combined with gold are a constant him. His grandfather handed the art in his creations, the designer reveals of repairing watches down to him, his greatest passion: «The opal has while his mother showed him how stolen my heart, and I think that it will every ring can be unique, thus pass- soon become a much-coveted gem ing on respect for precious things for everyone.» Netali Nissim

«Timeless elegance in the form of in the deeper meaning.» Every line contemporary jewels.» Netali Ni- is inspired by culture, fashion and ssim is a young designer with a travel, resulting in glamorous, ver- European flair. Born and raised in satile jewelry, suitable for every day. Milan, she grew up learning the art Worn individually or easily layered, of gemology from her father, one the designs are both delicate and of the field’s top diamond dealers. high-impact. They are made to ac- Her jewels stand out for their spe- company the wearer on her path, PORTRAITS cial blend of glamour, spirituality to feel peace, clarity, and a deep and high quality, reflecting the de- connection to everyone’s vision. signer’s deep connection to nature And as Netali Nissim herself says: and spirituality. «The eye takes in «that journey leads to the greatest the aesthetic while the spirit takes destination of all.» VO+ SPECIAL PROJECT PROJECT SPECIAL VO+

Netali Nissim. ‘PomPom’ bracelet in rose gold and turquoise. 58 — Stories

Muriel Grateau wearing her 'Brocade' brooches enamelled in glittered lacquer. Facing page. Ring made out of hand carved rock crystal in 'alveolus'. — 59

MURIEL IN BLACK Sculpted onyx, engraved rock crystal and pop-inspired lacquers. Volume and oversizing uphold Muriel Grateau’s minimalist,

no-frills aesthetic. by FEDERICA FROSINI Photography by OLEG COVIAN 60 — Stories

«My pieces are always conceived as accessories and are inextricably linked to the person wearing them and to the way they are worn.» Muriel Grateau — 61

THE JEWELRY WORLD is composed stopped Muriel at the port of St. Tropez, of many stories; it’s made up of anecdo- impressed by the originality of her clo- tes and interesting facts that leave their thes, which she had designed herself, mark over time by influencing trend and introduced her into the fashion direction, taste definition and style in- world. It was only then that Muriel clination. And if Queen Victoria chose Grateau realized how fashion, which black as the predominant color of her until then she had only experienced extraordinary ‘mourning jewels’ throu- as a pure obsession, could transform ghout the 1800s — so much so that she into a profession. After designing up launched a new trend at the time — in to 1,500 garments per season, halfway the twenty-first century, there is someo- through the Eighties she realized that ne who considers noir jewels as the only the real trend would be to extend her From top. Hand carved possible match to a rigorously all-black own personal style concept to home rock crystal 'Carafe outfit. Her name is Muriel Grateau. She décor. Her signature minimalism, Stopper' ring with black diamonds set in is an all-round creative and defining as a refined aesthete, translated into blackened white gold. her exclusively as a ‘jewelry designer’ endless porcelain, table linen and home Onyx and mother-of- pearl ring with cognac would be too reductive. The first person accents collections, reaching the point diamonds. Facing page. to notice her was Hélène Lazareff, the of offering table linens in 100 different 'Button' ring with onyx cabochon cut and legendary founder of Elle France. She hues. But, after a few years, she began garnets. 62 — Stories

to sense that something was missing and candid rock crystal, diamonds and from her eclectic and refined world, black sapphires, with a few, delicate from her essentially elegant, no-frills, digressions in the form of pop-inspired black look. A jewel, or rather, the jewel: lacquers and coral red. There are the something memorable for women Dentelle lace-effect jewels in chrome who love to dress in black. «Working gold, the Brocart and Pop Pins broo- in fashion, I often encountered Fine ches in colorful and pailletée lacquers, Jewelry designers and I discovered a Noir Onyx rings, earrings and bracelets fascinating new world. Enthusiasm, in handcrafted onyx, and the Miroir de know-how and a desire to share my Sorcière collection, with brooches and knowledge were all a strong incentive pendants inspired by convex objects for me. I have always followed my arti- and mirrors that were popular in the stic flair without ‘confining’ myself to a Fifties, featured in wood, metal and specific sector. When you are enraptu- bamboo. And the luminous Cristal de red by a particular style or atmosphere, Roche collection: a line defined by the you become sensitive to any form of many facets of rock crystal, sculpted or creativity.» engraved to create an intense contrast between polished and opaque. THUS, HER FIRST jewelry collection was born: one-of-a-kind handcrafted ARE THERE SYNERGIES between pieces, like ready-to-wear sculptures. jewelry and design? «I never thought «I have always wanted to create pre- there could be a link between the jewels cious and refined jewelry that is not I design and my tableware. But, loo- too ostentatious. Almost like in the king back in time, history shows sub- On top. 'Miroir de Sorcière' Thirties and Fifties, when the design stantial crossover between the jewelry collection. Left. and aesthetic of jewels were more im- world and l’art de la table. Just to name 'Grand Soleil Bambou' brooch/ portant than their value. My pieces two of the most representative brands: pendant in rough are always conceived as accessories Lalique and Tiffany. Perhaps with the champagne gold and silvery rock and are inextricably linked to the per- intent of tickling the interest of the fe- crystal mirror. son wearing them and to the way they male universe, both Maisons were suc- Right. 'Grand Soleil' in rough are worn.» Her collections are mainly cessful in creating strong ties between champagne dominated by an alternation of black the two worlds. How? By combining gold, silvery rock crystal and olive and white, in the form of fierce onyx expertise and craftsmanship». diamonds. Muriel Grateau — 63

Bangles in black onyx and champagne diamonds made out of two sculptures and in hand carved rock crystal with black sapphires. 64 —

PRECIOUS JEWELRY made sublime by hand-crafted techniques, able to transform beauty into a sensorial experience. This is how we could define high jewelry, that special niche in the jewelry world that creates masterpieces of gold-art technique, made entirely by hand, with maximum attention to detail and an exclusive study of precious stones. A little like what hap- pens in high fashion which, with its princely clothes, hand-sewn to exalt the female body, transforms poetry into wearable emotions. It is therefore no coincidence that these two elite worlds sometimes unite to make a chimerical sense of beauty into something tangible, sustaining Stendhal's theory incorporated in his famous quote 'Beauty is the promise of happiness.'

THE COLLABORATION between Giambattista Valli and Buccellati, which reached its second chapter last January during the Haute Couture at the Ville Lu- mière, is the greatest demonstration. The designer, born in Rome but Parisian by adoption, and one of the most loved in France for his modern creations able to enhance the traditional mastery of tailors and embroiderers, presented his couture Spring/Summer 2017 collection at the Musée des Archives Nationales in Paris together with new Haute Joaillerie items by Buccellati. Forty-six looks paraded the catwalk, adorned with unprecedented precious jewels, creating, for the second time, an impassioned dialogue between outfits to die for and jewelry of inestimable value.

Couture Allure

Designer Giambattista Valli and Maison Buccellati Pendant/brooch in yellow and create an impassioned dialogue between priceless white gold set with a faceted aquamarine, clothes and jewelry of dreams to tell an Italian story yellow and white diamonds. full of artistic inspiration and artisan skill. by ANTONELLA REINA Buccellati — 65 66 — Stories Buccellati — 67

Pendant earrings IN A UNIQUE atmosphere reminiscent of a walk in white gold with among famous French gardens — enchanted green drop-shaped pearls and diamonds. oases that bring the grayness of the city to life — the creations of these two Made-in-Italy fashion houses traced Cuff bracelet in pink, white and the personality of an off-the-screen woman, who is not yellow gold with afraid of true beauty. Beauty with a Renaissance-like tourmaline, faceted tzavorites and yet modern flair, celebrated by embroidered jasmine, diamonds. peonies and other flowers impressed upon hefty satin Facing page. Giambattista Valli and impalpable tulle. The exciting crescendo of stylistic Couture show, Paris construction was enhanced by spectacular brooches, S/S 2017. pendants, earrings and cuff bracelets, illuminated by huge stones: kunzites, aquamarines, rubellites, tzavorites, framed by white and yellow diamonds and gold in a sophisticated hand-cut fabric that lit up the elegant cocktail tunics, wide-legged trousers with their retro charm and luxurious evening dresses.

ALSO FEATURED were big pearls, securely held in large earrings and binding necklaces, that in some way magnify the syntony of intent between the two brands. Valli, in fact, never takes off his natural pearl necklace that once belonged to a Maharajah. He has worn it since 1 November 2002, the day on which he set off along the fashion road. 68 — Storie

Left. Margherita Burgener 'Painsy Flower' earrings in titanium, gold and diamonds. Right. Vhernier 'Blue Velvet' ring in titanium and diamonds. Techno Bling — 69

TITANIUM, CARBON FIBERS, zirconium, Corian: the future of jewelry, which in some cases is are already here, is precious technology. In this case, technology is more than just an instrument, as it becomes part of the jewel itself, in the name of innovative materials requiring special production techniques. The last great revolution in the jewelry world was carried out by JAR — acronym for Joel Arthur Rosenthal — considered the Fabergé of our time. JAR subverted style codes, esta- blishing himself as the greatest contemporary jewelry designer. Based in Place Vendôme since 1978, the designer has always expressed himself through a jo- yous aesthetic, with vibrant colors and organic shapes, especially flowers and butterflies, without limiting his use of materials. JAR forgoes the commercial aspect of the product in lieu of aesthetics, story-telling, and experimenting with metals — even non-precious ones — and a variety of shapes.

WHILE THE GENEVA-BASED artist Suzanne Syz joined the jewelry world to create precious jewels that are also light and wearable. Influenced by the artistic hustle and bustle of New York in the Eighties — with artists like Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Julian Schnabel and Francesco Clemente — she became renowned for her fun, brightly colored creations. Bold, one-of-a-kind compositions and unconventional materials are her trademark.

Silk-inspired hues, accompanied by magnificent stones, blend into leaves and petals, while more vibrant hues define other precious items. Thanks to those metals alternative to gold, which contribute to the creation of spectacular jewels. by ARIANNA PINTON 70 — Stories

Titanium, carbon fiber, zirconium, Corian: the future of jewelry is precious technology. Techno Bling — 71

Vhernier, collier ‘Blue Velvet’ in titanium and diamonds. Facing page. Fabio Salini 'Verdigris' cuff in copper with aquamarine and diamonds; titanium 'Petal' earrings by JAR.

MARGHERITA BURGENER creates titanium jewels of work went into Velvet, the magnificent collection embellished with precious stones in Valenza, the Ita- by Vhernier. The jewels, which are produced in the lian district renowned for its Fine Jewelry. Her Bloo- brand’s Valenza-based workshops, are the result of a ming necklace-brooch, featuring a shoot with flower collective effort by «Italian professionals, creatives buds in colored titanium, gold and 784 diamonds, and artisans, who are among the leading names in plays off the particular nuances of the metal to give the industry,» explains Carlo Traglio, who acquired the a naturalistic element an original look. «Behind each brand in 2001. «The necklace boasts an innovative use precious stone there is always a unique story, defined of titanium, an extremely durable material softened by artisanal expertise and charm that have travelled by a delicate wave design, set with stones selected for the world and been passed down through centuries. their color, purity and cut: 2,262 diamonds for a total The search for new ways of creating jewels encourages of 14.45 carats for the Blue Velvet necklace.» The idea me to experiment with unusual metals in the art of for the collection came in a dream: «Capturing the goldsmithing, especially with titanium, which allows fluidity of a wave, recreating the three-dimensionality me to be daring with my shapes, colors and sizes.» of a modern gorgière, at once sumptuous and light, or the shape of the Tridacna, the giant clam of the OVER TWO YEARS of study and two hundred hours South Seas.» 72 — Stories

Margherita Facing page. Burgener Suzanne Syz, 'Blooming' 'Hello It's Me' necklace in earrings in titanium, gold and aluminium and diamonds. Below. white gold set Paola Brussino ring with diamonds featuring a one- and ‘Magellanic of-a-kind purple Cloud’ bracelet diamond from in titanium and the 'New York white gold set Scarselli Diamonds with diamonds. collection'.

‘VERDIGRIS’ is the name of the collection by Ro- man jewelry designer Fabio Salini, who uses oxidized copper, among other materials, embellished with a big aquamarine and white diamonds. «Here the diffi- culty was in setting the turquoise oxidation so that it wouldn’t become green, because, for me, these jewels are a hymn to water.» Copper, which has always been used in water pipes, is ennobled through a technical and complex workmanship process combining with the intense brilliance of the stones to create delicate nuances of color. «I am always looking for materials that make my creations unique through chromatic, light and volume effects. The continuous study to pair stones with new materials, colors and textures, to create ever-new combinations aimed at exalting their beauty, led me to use metals that are not often ‘exploited’ in the jewelry world, such as titanium, carbon and oxidized copper.» Techno Bling — 73

PAOLA BRUSSINO, from Turin, uses titanium because she loves its lightness and incredibly high quality. «I have been researching carbon, Corian, zirconium and titanium for four years, with the intention of setting the stones in new, unexpected and intriguing materials, in order to change their emotional perception and rediscover their beauty; in this way, jewelry becomes art.» In fact, the designer has just created a ring featuring a one-of-a-kind purple diamond from the New York Scarselli Diamonds collection, exhibited in Venice during the Art Bienniale. «My jewelry philosophy is inspired by the classical world, in which ideas and designs stem from suggestions, from the intuition of a possibility, while the production method is based on a continuous exploration that relies on long- standing collaborations with the world’s finest jewelry brands and feeds off of my passion for art and the study of materials, artisanal techniques and poetry.» 74 — Stories

Talent Overseas There are 6,400 kilometers between the Big Apple and Italy. Four Italian designers set off to bridge this geographical gap and conquered the ‘capital of the world’ becoming icons of taste

and Made in Italy savoir faire. by MATTEO GUIZZARDI Talent Overseas — 75

EMANUELA DUCA

DALILA PASOTTI Known for her gold art technique Every one of her collections ex- in which the use of rough surfaces presses a desire to incorporate «It's true, just like Frank Sinatra said, if like lava stone combines with yel- Italian and American elements you can make it in New York, you can low gold evoking the beauty of an- in a harmonious flow that dwells make it anywhere. Here, nothing hap- cient ruins in Rome, giving them between contrasts and similari- pens by chance, you have to work really an irresistible sense of modernity, ties while also representing her hard and be extremely disciplined. And Emanuela Duca is now one of love for the city that welcomed when you do a good job, you know you the most popular Italian jewelry her and enriched her creativi- have measured yourself against the very designers in Manhattan. «I am ty. This concept lies at the base best.» honored to represent Made in of her latest collection entitled Italy's fine manufacturing skills,» Burst: «a true tribute to the po- This is how Dalila Pasotti, who moved to the artist explains. «After almost wer of transformation that only the Big Apple after obtaining her math twenty years here in New York, a dynamic city like New York can degree in order to chase her dreams — I live in a dimension where the express. I have explored primary sculpture and gold art — describes the confines between Italy and the elements such as earth and fire to city that welcomed her and where she United States fade until they are interpret a strong and feminine is now a well-known jewelry designer, practically non-existent.» woman.» much admired for the traditional Italian elegance that she pours in her creations. Emanuela Duca. ‘Under A Tree’ cuff in gold and blackened sterling silver. «Savoir faire is something Italians are born with. We are ceremonial, even in the little things, like how we cook and present a dish even when we eat alone, how we iron our clothes, how we fur- nish our homes. Italian jewelry-making, just like tailoring or cooking, requires a background of experience that is handed down, refined and practiced for a lifetime.»

And to those who ask her whether she feels more of a New Yorker or an Italian, she replies, «I am now a New Yorker to all effects, but Italy is always a part of me, in all the big or little things I do.»

Dalila Pasotti. Yellow gold ring with diamonds, white and tahitian pearls. 76 — Stories

ISABELLA DEL BONO

Born into an aristocratic family with a centuries-old lineage ro- oted in the province of Parma, Countess Isabella del Bono, jewelry designer with an antique charm, brimming with history, found success on the high-end STEFANIA PRAMMA New York scene thanks to her association with her friend Mariana Born into a well-to-do family in Lom- Antinori, an Italian-Argentine bardy — her industrialist father made a businesswoman, who owns a fortune in the plastics sector — Stefania boutique in the Big Apple dedi- Pramma took the big leap to the other cated to ‘the very best’ of Made side of the ocean when she was eighteen in Italy. In fact, among Antinori's «I look back and re-live the an- years old. Arriving in Manhattan with hottest-selling items are Isabella cient goldsmith techniques of her twin sister and alter ego Valeria, del Bono's creations. the past that, unfortunately, are and a precious talisman in her bag (a now going towards extinction, jewel by Pederzani featuring ladybugs «My jewelry is full of spirit, so- like for example, my miniatures that their mother had had split into two metimes dark, sometimes de- using hot enamel.» An out-and- giving one half to each twin), Stefania licate, but it always expresses out ambassador of Made in Italy, Pramma worked as the creative designer enormous power.» This is how Isabella del Bono is certain of one for many luxury brands, from Judith Lei- the Countess describes her work, thing. «Italian jewelry always ber to Barry Kieselstein-Cord, before she which her American customers has the edge: we have the best opened her own self-designed bag and appreciate for their archaic and craftsmen in the world, able to jewelry line made by Italian craftsmen. almost mystic air, the result of make every piece into a unique very ancient artisanal methods. emotion.» «What brought me to New York was a feeling more than an image: the idea Isabella del Bono. ‘Sole’ iron cuff with gold elements and yellow sapphires. that I had to leave home in order to find what, in a certain sense, was my real home. As soon as I set foot in Manhat- tan, I immediately knew that this was the place where I could work well and explore my talent,» she says. Her Italian spirit emerges «in a love for quality and the process, execution and craftsman-like search for something unique.» Her favorite places in the Big Apple? The Flatiron District and the Upper East Side. Talent Overseas — 77

Eclectic and timeless, evocative and refined. Jewels made in Italy seduce the States.

Stefania Pramma. Gold ring with South Sea pearls, diamonds and emerald. Ph. Marc Hibbert. 78 — Highlights

Vivid colors play a distinct role in the appealing game of geometries.

Photography GIANUZZIMARINO CHROMATIC Chromatic — 79

Daniela Villegas. Yellow gold necklace ‘Backyard’ collection with fancy sapphires and Mexican insect ‘Plusiotis Victorina’ as centerpiece.

Facing page. Qayten. Necklace ‘Desigual’ with Akoya pearls, rubies and diamonds.

CHROMATIC 80 — Highlights

Federica Rettore. ‘Bocciolo’ earrings in rose gold, brown diamonds, rubellite, tanzanite, Imperial topaz. Chromatic — 81

Wendy Yue. 'Brazilian Hollyhock' choker in yellow gold, tsavorites, rubellites, yellow and pink sapphires, emeralds and golden diamonds. 82 — Highlights

Fernando Jorge. ‘Stream’ necklace in rose gold, emeralds, amazonite and milky aquamarine. Chromatic — 83

Paolo Piovan Gioielli. Rose gold bracelet with paraiba tourmalines, white, fancy and icy diamonds. 84 — Highlights

Roberto Bravo. ‘Capri Azzurra’ ring in blue rhodium with golden details, diamonds and sapphires. Chromatic — 85

Sutra. Black gold bracelet with

Set design: Martina Zanicotti e Giulia Romani e Giulia Zanicotti Martina design: Set sapphires and opals. 86 — Stories

DESIGN

THE

RULE

Micro mosaic, fragments of real gemstones and an outstanding creativity. Roger Thomas goes beyond the boundaries at Sicis.

by RACHAEL TAYLOR — 87 88 — Stories

«One of the things I've always loved in the roots of Italian design is that very early Roman interiors have mosaic floors.» Roger Thomas — 89

Brooch and earrings from the 'Falso Vero' collection. Facing page. 'Cubista' earrings.

Roger Thomas has spent the past thirty-eight years designing casinos and hotels for magnate Robert Wynn, but after falling under the spell of mosaics he turned his hand to something a little smaller in scale by creating a jewelry and watch collection for Sicis. At Sicis' London store, he talks about how interior design influences his jewelry.

You’ve created the interiors of many buildings where you have installed some wonderful mosaics. What is it about them that you love? I come to the craft of interior design through art history. One of the things I've always loved in the roots of Italian design is that very early Roman interiors have mosaic floors. It adds color and pattern, yet is completely wa- shable and totally durable. There are 2,000-year-old mosaic floors that look like new.

Through sourcing mosaics, you discovered Sicis and developed a close relationship with founder Maurizio Leo Placuzzi. How did you feel when he asked you to design his jewelry? I don’t even think I had hung up the phone before I had drawings done. and silver. Also, the best way to get the color turquoise is to use turquoise; the best way to get red with great depth Was it difficult for you to scale down? is to use a ruby or garnet; the best way to get a white that I was a metalsmith in my earlier career so I understood is lively is with diamond, and so on. There is a depth metal, but one of the first things I did was go to Ravenna that just can’t be recreated in paint or anything else. to learn about the micro mosaic. One of your most striking collections for Sicis is Falso Micro mosaic uses tiny tesserae of glass, yet some of Vero, which creates a tromp-l’oeil effect. What was the your jewelry designs use fragments of real gemstones. inspiration behind that? Yes, I was greatly intrigued that Leo wanted to incorpo- One of the first things micro mosaics achieved, because rate precious jewels. I have a long love of jewels and have of its history being used as part of painting to create previously made sculptures using precious jewels, gold landscapes and portraits, was illusionism. I love the idea of having a great big sapphire in a piece of jewelry that’s actually a picture of a sapphire, made with sapphire tesserae.

Do your jewelry and interiors ever cross paths? I had just begun designing the Wynn Palace in Macau and Steve had asked me to celebrate China in the design, so I was exploring the history of chinoiserie. I’d been studying Chinese embroidery and it has much in common with micro mosaics as it has tiny stitches. A common motif in Ming dynasty embroidery is the cloud. I started drawing the cloud in Pointillism, and created it in white glass with golden topaz.

Sketching tiny dots must take a lot of control? I think most creative pursuits are about control, about bringing order to chaos. But it should always have an edge — it should be dangerous. If you haven’t taken a risk, you haven’t invented; you’re just recreating something else, so why bother? 90 — Stories

'Jeanne' head jewel in white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds. 91 — 91 COCO

Antoinette, Emilienne, Jeanne and Lucienne. And then Maud, Zina, Marthe and Susanne. Lastly, Gabrielle, young, irreverent and determined, destined to conquer the élite of fashion.

avant

Once upon a time Coco Chanel and her friends lived in Paris... The Parisian Maison celebrates its founder and the women who largely influenced and supported her career prior to 1920, with the new Haute Joaillerie 2017 collection.

by ANTONELLA REINA

CHANEL 92 — Stories

THE SEARCH for freedom, the de- as one named after the great coutu- sire for sobriety, the need for lightness. rier herself. There is her beloved sister These are the foundations on which Antoinette, the famous dancer and Gabrielle Coco Chanel built an entire courtier Emilienne d'Alençon, Jean- career and the empire of a constantly ne Dyris, theatre actress and wife of avant-garde fashion house. Hers is Paul Iribe, Lucienne Rabaté, a milli- a story that needs no re-telling. It is ner, well-known among the classy la- now common knowledge and set on dies of Paris, who became her faithful the hearts of every woman who not collaborator. And then there was the only sees Mademoiselle as an icon of worldly Maud Mazuel, the sopranos style, but also as an example of life. Zina Brozia and Marthe Davelli, and Her intentions and resolute character the actress, Susanne Orlandi. freed femininity from the confining clothes of the Belle Epoque, made up THE ENTIRE collection is crisscros- of corsets, crinolines and contraptions sed by delicate shades of white, pink for hair. She took skirt length to be- and gray to reconstruct that sphere of low the knee, lowered the waistline, femininity and pure, yet never ostenta- introduced the use of jersey and the tious, intimacy that characterized Ga- famous ‘à la garçonne’ style, which never stops being contemporary. Re- named ‘queen of the genre pauvre’, a modern ‘luxury poverty’ and with an air of snobbery, Coco started a genuine revolution in the fashion world, promoted at the time by some influential female figures: singers, actresses, ladies of the court, who shared ideas and life moments with her.

THE ANTI-CONFORMIST spirit of those times, which consisted of innovative elegance and just a snippet of insolence, is alive again today in Coco Avant Chanel, the new Haute Joaillerie 2017 collection that the French Mai- son has dedicated to its founder and the women who mostly influenced and supported her career prior to 1920, re-evoking the designer's beginnings in forty-eight new items of exemplary beauty. Eleven new jewelry sets carry the name of a woman, a customer or a person dear to Mademoiselle as well 93 Chanel Joaillerie — 93

'Suzanne ' necklace and bracelet in white gold set with oval-cut pink sapphires, Tahitian cultured pearls, cabochon- cut moonstones and brilliant-cut diamonds. Left. Gabrielle on the beach at Etretat, 1913 ca. 94 — Stories

Coco started a genuine revolution in the fashion world, promoted at the time by some influential female figures who shared ideas and life moments with her.

brielle's relationships with her friends, nese varieties and some warm shades muses and allies. However, inspiration of Padparadscha sapphires, gems comes from two cornerstone elements of rare beauty in which orange and of her style: lace and ribbon. Ribbon, red merge into a unique color. The a tribute to the famous straw hats she most valuable item bears the name made at her onset, becomes precious of Gabrielle. An impressive neckla- thanks to the splendor of diamonds ce, embellished with a large central and reveals new shapes that transmit diamond which, through its lace ca- a strong sense of freedom. Lace, wor- mellia-shaped weave, is reminiscent Above, left. 'Jeanne' ked with new techniques, re-evokes of a collar. This special jewelry item watch in white gold set with marquise- images of nature as it comes back to was made following a lengthy process cut diamonds, pear- life in spring, by designing camellias, by the masterly hands of the artisans cut and brilliant-cut diamonds. Above, flowers and tiny birds that follow the in the workshops in Place Vendôme. right. The most curving lines of the body. To complete the ensemble of the va- precious jewel: 'Gabrielle Chanel' rious sets of earrings, necklaces, bra- necklace in white IN A TRIUMPH of precious stones celets, brooches and hairpins, are five gold set with a pear-cut diamond, where spinels, moonstones, sapphi- outstanding fans mounted on white round-cut res, rubies and morganites abound, silk embroidered by Atelier Lesage, diamonds, and 1,581 brilliant-cut there are also pearls, ranging from with mother-of-pearl inserts and gold diamonds. gray Tahitian to pinky-cream Japa- and diamond trim. Chanel Joaillerie — 95

'Jeanne' necklace in white gold set with marquise, fancy and brilliant-cut diamonds. 96 — Stories

Pomellato campaign by Lord Snowdon, 1992. Facing page. 'Ritratto' rings with amethyst and London Blue topaz. Pomellato — 97

A portrait of success Pomellato turns fifty and celebrates with a special collection and a campaign, by Peter Lindbergh, designed as a tribute to women.

by DONATELLA ZAPPIERI 98 — Stories

Backstage photos of the advertising campaign by Peter Lindbergh. From top. Helen Nonini, Rosemary Ferguson with Any Duong, Caroline Corbetta, Pihla Hintikka. Facing page. 'Tango' necklace.

Photo courtesy of Pomellato Press Office. Pomellato — 99

IT WAS 1967. Pino Rabolini, founder of the Maison, universe. As she says «Women have a unique power: habitually went to the Caffè Jamaica in the Brera area, they are hospitable, open to everyone and open to life. a meeting point for intellectuals and artists. It was an I would like women to perceive Pomellato as a distri- important period for new social and global awareness butor of beauty that is always and only on their side.» that brought down a world of formalism and conventions to assert a new power that shunned the restrained INNUMERABLE INITIATIVES and projects are plan- rituals of Haute Couture and corporate formalism to ned to celebrate the fiftieth anniversary. In March, give new impulse to the younger generations, women the new photographic advertising campaign by Peter and creative minds. Lindbergh was launched. The German photographer This intellectual impulse led Pino Rabolini to create is a member of a pantheon of unforgettable artists who Pomellato, which became synonymous of global jewel- have worked in black and white for the company — ry, fashion and anti-conformism. A proudly Milanese Newton in the Eighties, Michel Comte in the Nineties brand with strong values linked to craftsmanship yet, — with a project that offers the scene to women who at the same time, faithful to a style that incarnates enjoy the electrifying freedom of being themselves beauty and gives power to female leadership. day after day. This new advertising campaign also marks the FIFTY YEARS have gone by and Pomellato, bought launch of the new Ritratto collection, a tribute to the in 2013 by Kering, a global luxury group, now has a ‘portrait cut,’ an ancient Indian cut characterized by woman, Sabina Belli, in its top role of CEO, the ambas- large stones. In Indian jewelry, these stones were used sador of the mission that was so dear to Rabolini and to cover portraits and miniatures, hence the name. which is still extremely valid for the new ownership: look to sophisticated and independent women, loyal INSPIRED BY the opulence of Indian jewelry, Ri- customers of the brand since 1967 and now mothers of tratto amplifies the concept of new, precious, uncon- a new generation of women who are also independent ventional and difficult-to-find stones, enhanced by a and emancipated. meticulous artisan process. This collection once again Sabina Belli not only takes a wealthy know-how highlights the magical union between Milanese crafts- to the Pomellato group, acquired during a lengthy manship and a creative impulse with an international professional career in the world of luxury, but also a air, with one hundred master craftsmen who, every day, decidedly feminine approach: an empathetic and so- create, experiment and produce jewelry, continuing phisticated perspective of business; new impulse that to nurture the tradition of iconic items that made the starts exactly from a deep understanding of the female Maison's history. 100 — Stories

The Art of Piercing

From a symbol of rebellion to IF COLLECTIVE IMAGINATION had a voice, it would talk about piercing as a rebellious and anti-conformist precious jewelry: Maria Tash accessory, the prerogative of several youth sub-cultures speaks of the new meaning of that marked last century's most revolutionary and anarchic years with their provocative style. But body piercing, a beauty accessory art, or the art of permanently decorating, personali- zing and embellishing the body, dates back to times increasingly loved by fashion long past. In fact, in many ancient civilizations, man designers and stars alike. operated on his own body, often transforming it to extremes, to claim physical, mental or even religious by ANTONELLA REINA individuality. Nowadays, this originally tribal practice, increasingly accepted by all social orders, is much- loved and becoming more and more popular. Already Maria Tash — 101

Maria Tash's precious gold rings for earlobes featuring small pearls, black diamonds, black opals and turquoise.

When did you start? I began designing jewelry in 1992 and then, in 1993, I opened my piercing studio in Manhattan, in the East Village. At the time, the market only offered industrial- looking accessories in steel. I started experimenting with hypoallergenic metals like niobium and titanium, combining them with gold and silver bead decorations. Those were the years of navel piercing and I made a lot. These days I'm mainly known for my linear jewelry with precious finishings, perfect for lobes and ear cartilage.

Piercing jewelry seems to be a new luxury trend.

A portrait of New York-based fine jeweler Maria Tash whose work is inspired What's your opinion? by the art of body piercing and Indian and Pakistani design. It is still a niche trend. Requests for small piercings in lobes and ear cartilage are constantly on the increase. The most popular are on the helix - the upper curve of the ear - and on the tragus, the tiny cartilage protrusion given the go-ahead by the most irreverent and contem- in front of the ear canal. porary fashion brands, from Alexander McQueen to Givenchy, piercing recently appeared on Gucci's Fall/ How would you define your creations? Winter 2017-18 catwalk, introducing itself as one of Minute but highly detailed jewelry for constant wear. the trends that will most greatly appear in the coming My customers feel courageous and beautiful after a seasons. We spoke with Maria Tash, a renowned New piercing: they have overcome their fear and own an York-based designer, whose outstanding creativity got item of jewelry made in perfect harmony with their her noticed in the piercing world. The merit for first personal aesthetics. having created a bridge between 'the art of piercing' and jewelry goes to her. Her highly valuable gold and What materials do you use? diamond piercings are much coveted by celebrities I love working with pink and yellow gold and diamonds. and all those who look to detail for the true sense of Blending classics with new technologies is fun. The re- an authentic and elegant style. sult is innovative jewelry, something never seen before. 102 — Highlights 102 —

State of Black Dazzling light from gold, diamonds, aquamarine and rubies stand out against the darkest surfaces.

Photography by GIANUZZIMARINO State of Black — 103 — 103

Leo Pizzo. ‘Merletto’ earrings in white gold and diamonds. Facing page. Crivelli. ‘Toi & Moi’, floral ring in white gold and aquamarine. 104 — Highlights

Casato. White gold ‘Maureen’ cuff with diamonds. State of Black — 105

Voga & Co. Gioielli. Earrings with rubies and diamonds from ‘Girasoli’ collection. 106 — Highlights

Roberto Coin. ‘Sauvage’ rings in rose gold, diamonds and black jade. State of Black — 107

Piero Milano. ‘Goa’ bracelets in yellow gold, titanium, diamonds, jade and coral.

Marbles courtesy of Luce di Carrara. Set design: Martina Zanicotti e Giulia Romani 108 — Stories INSPIRATIONAL JOURNEY The symbolic power of an Egyptian obelisk. The force of nature. The fascination of a work of art. The genius of modern architecture. The exuberance of food. A tour among the new inspirations that modernize the jewelry world. by ANTONELLA REINA — 109 — 109

'Single Egg' silver earring from the 'Ruined Omelette' collection by All Blues. 110 — Stories

'Atelier' collection rose-cut diamond bracelet in recycled gold by Monique Péan.

«ONE SUNDAY MORNING, while I shapes of which faithfully mimic the and sensations destined to reveal their was making an omelet, I accidentally pieces of a broken egg, transforming strength in a work of art. And if food dropped an egg on the floor. I imme- the egg white, yolk and shell halves appears to be the latest fashion obses- diately got a piece of paper and drew into stylish gold and silver earrings, sion — one only has to think of Dolce & four new jewelry items inspired by rings and pendants. This very original Gabbana which, for its Spring/Summer the elements of that disaster.» This is anecdote goes to show that observing 2017 collection, took a print inspired how Fredrik Nathorst, designer and the world and gathering inspiration by pasta, including spaghetti, macaroni co-founder of the Swedish brand, All is still an indispensable prelude to a and quills, onto the catwalk — the jewel- Blues, describes the origin of his latest creative act: a (senti)mental course ry world's style is becoming increasingly collection entitled Ruined Omelette, the that is the embryo of all those emotions more contemporary and full of cross- Inspirational Journey — 111

Evoking a link between heaven and earth, the powerful shapes of monuments inspire new contemporary jewels.

Below, left. Above, right. Blackened gold and diamond 'Single Empire Spike Studs' and 'Empire Studs' by Eva Fehren. Below. Fairmined gold and diamond 'Fluted Capstone' pendant by Tejen.

fertilization, thanks to those brands te. We are in the Antarctic, that distant white gold, evoke the colors of glacial that nurture a particular sensitivity for point on the Earth where nature is wild icescapes. Now close your eyes, ignore other artistic disciplines and a privile- and powerful. It is here where Monique the boundaries of time, and you will ged relationship with nature. Looking Péan, a designer constantly heedful of find yourselves in ancient Egypt, at the at their new collections is like taking sustainability and ethical trade, found foot of a magical obelisk with enormous a timeless tour in faraway places and inspiration for the new Atelier collec- symbolic power — it was thought that through the imagination. tion, creating a series of rings, brace- this monument could unite heaven lets and necklaces that, through dia- and earth. Its geometric shape, soaring THINK ABOUT huge blocks of floa- monds and precious stones combined upwards, becomes a distinctive element ting ice and an expanse of infinite whi- with rigorously recycled platinum and of jewelry by the young Parisian brand, 112 — Stories

Creativity has no rules. It might transform the exuberance of a broken egg into a stylish silver pendant.

'Eggshell' silver necklace from the 'Ruined Omelette' collection by All Blues. Inspirational Journey — 113

'Unknown Pleasure' necklace in rose gold, white diamonds and carved black jade, from 'Somebody's Sins' collection by Hannah Martin.

Tejen, which actually takes its name the new generation circular pendants of restraint and freedom, dominance from the ancient word used to define and earrings by Noor Fares, are loaded and individualism, possession and the obelisks. Changing culture but still im- with highly imaginative power. freedom of expression. mersed in spirituality, the last chapter On the other hand, the work of of the Akasha collection by Noor Fa- THE RETURN to present day is a Eva Zuckerman from the Eva Fehren res, takes us towards a Buddhist and fascinating landing among the dark brand, is an intense interpretation of Hindu belief, according to which nine beauty of Pierre Molinier, thanks to New York's urban beauty. She has cho- stones correspond to different parts of the work of Hannah Martin, who ably sen intricate architectonic shapes and the body with the ability to absorb and reinterprets the style of her favorite pho- elements to reproduce interlacings of transmit energy. Between red garnet, tographer in Somebody's Sins, a collec- the lines and patterns of the Big Apple's carnelian, iolite and cat's eye quartz, tion exploring the conflicting themes most iconic buildings. 114 — Stories

Wearable Visions

London is home to the world’s foremost jewelry galleries, where visual arts collide with precious materials, matching renewed

demand from global collectors. by KATHRYN BISHOP Wearable Visions — 115

In these pages. Louisa Guinness, founder of Louisa Guinness Gallery, wearing a necklace by Calder; some gallery interiors shots; the 'Little Lapis Goddess' by Emily Young, 2016.

Louisa Guinness Founder - Louisa Guinness Gallery

How has the art jewelry world evolved in recent years? It was originally a big market in the Sixties and Se- venties. I opened my gallery in 2003 and in the years since, artists’ jewelry has bounced back. Today, interest is exploding, especially in Europe and the US.

Which of your projects have you personally enjoyed? While it wasn’t a collaboration, I really enjoyed The Boldness of Calder exhibition in 2016 for its historical aspect. Right now I am working with Anish Kapoor on fantastic designs that play with light, while British sculptor Alan Jones is creating jewelry that combines gold with perspex.

We understand Victoria Beckham featured pieces from the Gallery on her Fall 2017 runway? Yes, she visited our gallery in London and selected jade and lapis lazuli brooches by British sculptor Emily Young. Victoria is a positive advocate of British artists, and supports the gallery as a business run by women. There has been a major change this year — the fashion world is now approaching artists to create jewelry.

How do you begin the process of a jewelry collaboration? It actually takes more time than most artists realize, sometimes two years, so I explain this first. From there, it’s about working on ideas and designs together. If the 116 — Stories

artist isn’t used to working on a smaller scale they can Elisabetta Cipriani. Founder - Elisabetta Cipriani find it difficult. I always encourage them to relate back Jewelry by Contemporary Artists to their design signature. You launched your gallery in 2009 — how has the art Working with artists, do you explore alternative ma- jewelry market developed since then? terials or techniques? There has been greater interest in recent years, no doubt The artists don’t tend to make the pieces themselves. due to the increasing number of fairs that show jewelry Instead, we often work with The Goldsmiths’ Centre in by artists to existing art fans. The prominent collector London, producing 3D prints of designs to get an idea Diane Venet has helped to raise the profile of artist of scale and shape. We have also used laser sintering jewelry through her jewelry exhibition, which travelled to print jewelry directly in 18-carat gold. around the world. She herself owns over 400 pieces.

Can you share any of your upcoming projects? In your experience, what makes a work popular with Alongside Alan Jones and Anish Kapoor, I am also collectors? working on some jewelry designs with mechanical and I’ve sold out of some editions in less than six months. scientific sculptor Conrad Shawcross. I have two or For example, Giuseppe Penone’s Foglia necklace, crafted three other great artists that I am collaborating with, with twigs and a pure gold imprint of his palm. Now it’s so watch this space. Jannis Kounellis’ lip rings. Sometimes there is a surge in interest if an edition is about to finish or the artist has Wearable Visions — 117

Elisabetta Cipriani, founder of Elisabetta Cipriani Jewelry by Contemporary Artists gallery, and 'Lips' rings in gold by Kounellis. Facing page. 'Atena Lemnia' necklace by Giulio Paolini.

sadly died. Positively, my clients love to wear the pieces Does technology play much of a role in artist jewelry they buy — I only have one that is purely a collector. creation? Like Haute Couture, everything is crafted using hand Are any narratives emerging in artist jewelry? skills, from the initial sketches to the final designs. This I typically work with visual artists, so their jewelry is is something I strive to maintain. You see warmth in always an echo of their work. If their art is political a piece when it’s handmade. When it’s too perfect or the jewelry will reference it. Importantly, as the artists linear it becomes cold. Women are curvaceous; jewelry have no association with the jewelry world, they are should follow this form. not influenced by trends or branding. They put the same effort and energy into the jewelry as they would What can you tell us about your latest works and a work of art. artists you will include in your gallery? I used TEFAF as the platform to launch Gri-Gri, a How long does an artist collaboration take? series of talismanic rings by Pascale Marthine Tayou. It can take up to two years, because the artists are often The rings are positive, energy-filled amulets crafted in quite established and jewelry is a new medium for them. 18-carat yellow gold, African cloth and colored threads. The dialogue starts when I show them works that other They even contain a hidden shamanic potion inside. artists have produced. There is playful competition; Tayou believes art cannot be separated from life and they see another artist’s jewelry so they want to create consequently his work often uses everyday objects their own. and materials. All the news from IEG The Voices VO+ USA, Summer 2017

Preview — Corporate Social Responsibility at VICENZAORO September 2017. CSR will once again be the focus of the Fall edition of the Trade Show, scheduled to take place in Vicenza from 23 to 27 September.

THANKS to VICENZAORO’s journey evolutionary dynamics. The common have worked on some highly positive towards innovation and internationa- denominator of the next edition will projects. Don't forget that IEG is the lization — now led by Italian Exhibi- once again focus on promoting Cor- first and only trade show organization tion Group (IEG) — the next show will porate Social Responsibility within the that, with CIBJO's support, has been present collections for the Christmas jewelry world being the main theme accredited at the United Nations Eco- period designed by the very best in Green Jewelry, and the itineraryy will nomic and Social Council (ECOSOC). the world to top buyers from strategic include important themes such as the CIBJO's activities in Corporate Social jewelry markets. 1,300 historic and value of traceability, ethical trade, en- Responsibility, human rights, the fight important new brands from every Ita- vironmental protection, safeguarding against corruption and environmental lian gold district and foreign countries the right to work and health and safety. are expected. Internationalization is Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO one of VICENZAORO's most distin- — The World Jewelry Confederation — ctive and significant traits. It is not all provides some insight. business though. In fact, according to a totally pioneering concept of 'trade How is the collaboration going with showing,' VICENZAORO is known for the Italian Exhibition Group? its recognized ability to create valuable «Italian Exhibition Group is one of content, information and in-depth in- our privileged partners thanks to its vestigations into trends and the sector's experienced managers with whom we Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO VICENZAORO September 2017 — 119

POSITIVE RESULTS Exhibition Group S.p.A. (IEG), came on a global scale. The VICENZAORO FOR VICENZAORO JANUARY 2017 to a close with positive results after brand, together with T-Gold, is one of six full days, confirming its role as a the elite events for selected Made in 20/25 1,500 1,300 The Show that opened the global cal- point of reference in the gold and Italy and International excellence and endar for jewelry events took place in jewelry community worldwide and is supported by the Italian Govern- Vicenza from 20 to 25 January. VICE- generating confidence among exhibi- ment as a privileged platform for the NZAORO January (VOJ), The Jewellery tors and buyers despite the complex international development of leading JANUARY BRANDS BUYERS Boutique Show organized by Italian moment that the sector is experiencing manufacturing systems.

Bracelet from the 'Green Carpet Focus Collection' by Chopard. — Facing page. Bianca Balti and Gemma NOW. Not Ordinary Arterton wearing the 'Green Carpet Watches Collection' during the Venice Film Festival The NOW Plaza, the Piazza specifically opening ceremony. The statement necklace devoted to Independent Watch Brands, and earrings are will be back at VICENZAORO Septem- crafted in Fairmined certified gold and ber. The exhibition space will host a feature the responsibly selection of innovative and design 'Made sourced emeralds from Gemfields and in Italy' and Europe watch brands. «It diamonds sourced was obvious from the very first edition from a diamond supplier certified to the in 2016 that IEG had created a high RJC code of practices. level container for watches in the ac- cessible luxury segment,» explained Fabrizio Fuochi, Executive Officer of Sales Management at Locman Italy, «VICENZAORO confirms its position as one of the best trade shows in the protection have been recognized for deeper consideration of CSR, which world, attended by buyers from every over ten years. We are one of the few will lead to longer-lasting results. continent as well as a high range of partners in the United Nations Glo- The trade show world has changed Italian customers. I was immediately bal Compact initiative to have close because visitors and the entire mar- fascinated by the formula IEG chose, and high advisory relations with its ket of reference have changed, and whose objective is ‘sell out’ rather than planning departments as well as the CIBJO, with IEG, has become the ‘sell in’, because NOW Plaza provides support of the UN Secretary General, sector's 'civic conscience'. Fiera di every exhibitor with equal opportunities António Guterres, who increasingly Vicenza has brought to IEG the un- for demonstrating its own stylistic and asks us to collaborate on these themes. derstanding, experience, savoir fair qualitative research, with cutting edge Italian Exhibition Group is known for and a thirst for knowledge that has and highly appealing products, without its total commitment to the 17 Glo- distinguished its management over necessarily having a stand that looks like bal Compact Principles and we have the last few years. Corporate Social a cathedral. We are going in the right drafted a mutual agenda to steer our Responsibility is asking the business direction: in the last thirty years, the activities, from 2017 on.» world to help in creating a system watch industry has been shaky. Now we and integrating standards of ethics are in the third perigee but we will soon What is the positive advantage? into its procedures that would not be have a new apogee if we can work with «IEG is no longer just a service pro- stressful or difficult to maintain over alliances knowing that the market has vider but an organization that ac- time. The aim is not to take advan- changed. Today's competitors? Techno- companies its partners towards a tage of others any longer.» (A.P.) logical gadgets and travel.»

New Talents — Next Jeneration 2017

Participants in the Next Jeneration Jewellery Talent Contest 2017 are young under 30s, asked to design a 'functional' jewel in a practical and symbolic sense. In other words, a modern piece that can transform from an ornament into something useful. 133 designs from twelve different countries on four continents have been collected. The prize-giving ceremony will be held during VICENZAORO September 2017. (P.R.) 120 — JCK Las Vegas

Trendbook — Jewelry Directions 2018+

Interview — VICENZAORO Italian Passion. Made with Love. It is the International brand of VICENZAORO - one of the most prestigious jewelry show in the world organized by Italian Exhibition Group - created to promote jewelry Made in Italy worldwide.

THIS FORMAT is exported all over the present their outstanding features and hi- world, to the most important International gh-end products in terms of innovation, trade shows for the industry. And again creativity, design, craftsmanship, under- this year it is at the JCK jewelry show in Las lining their roles as trendsetters in this Vegas to promote a strategic business area business worldwide. ‘VICENZAORO for the Italian jewelry sector. In the inter- Italian Passion. Made with Love’ at JCK view below, Corrado Facco, Managing is thus a very relevant format, not only for Director of Italian Exhibition Group Spa, the prestigious and target context, but also tells us which are the opportunities for the and overall because it has opened - for 12 Italian companies. «As a matter of fact, this years now - the doors to Italian compa- country is one of the main destinations for nies of the American market, now more TRENDVISION Jewellery + Forecasting Italian jewelry exports, worth 625 million than ever very strategic in the luxury and In Las Vegas VICENZAORO will also Euros in the USA, that grew by 9.6% in jewelry world. This thanks to the support be participating with TRENDVISION 2016 compared to 2015 (source: Istat), of Italian Exhibition Group, the company Jewellery + Forecasting, its independent Observatory that researches despite 2016 being a particularly compli- generated by a merger between Rimini global jewelry, diamond and watch cated year for the gold and jewelry indu- Fiera and Fiera di Vicenza, leader in Italy trends. Created by VICENZAORO, the TRENDVISION foundry is a valu- stry worldwide. JCK, the main gold and and one of the main players in Europe, able tool for the gold and jewelry jewelry trade show for the United States and thanks to the International know-how industry. In fact, eighteen months ahead of time, TRENDVISION offers and the rest of the Americas, represents a and expertise of VICENZAORO. A brand an overview of new trends, outlines good opportunity for the Italian brands to that confirms its leadership in promoting future consumer profiles and traces product dynamics in a continually showcase their manufacturing knowledge and adding value to the Italian Jewelry evolving market. to a very interested audience and Interna- Beauty and Well Done, playing the role From top, clockwise. Brady Legler, tional professional buyers. Here the Italian of Italian jewelry Ambassador in the Robinson Pelham, Lydia Courteille, Jade Jagger, Nancy Newberg, Tomasz exhibitors will bring their latest collections, world». (A.P.) Donocik. As seen on Trendbook 2018+ VOD — 121

The Event gies for accessing emerging will launch a new concept high-range markets. Held that will include an area From 15 to 18 November at the Dubai World Trade specifically for B2B while 2017, VOD Dubai Interna- Centre, the Show, man- still maintaining the soul of

n i

o tional Jewellery Show will aged by DV Global Link, VICENZAORO exhibition

o take place in the United the joint venture between formats, and a B2C area for

b Arab Emirates. It will be Dubai World Trade Centre retail, which will be open to o

R enhanced with new strate- & Italian Exhibition Group, the public. (P.R.)

Preview — Dubai: a unique event for international jewelry. From 15 to 18 November 2017, the appointment with VOD Dubai International Jewellery Show will be strengthened with new strategies for accessing emerging high-range markets. Interview with Emanuele Emilio Guido, General Manager – DV Global Link L.L.C.

VOD Dubai International Jewellery Right. Can you tell us what your tar- As you said, the third edition of VOD Show 2017 seems to have been totally get is? Dubai International Jewellery renewed compared to the previous The Show is the only B2B event in the Show has been moved to November. edition. Can you tell us about the Region for jewelry professionals (retai- What are the advantages for the exhi- main new entries? lers, wholesalers, manufacturers), VIPs bitors? Exactly. Firstly, the name of the Show and the press. However, there will also The new dates will allow exhibitors has changed to VOD Dubai Internatio- be a ‘Trade & Retail’ area open to the to meet top jewelry retailers and top nal Jewellery Show and it will be the consumer who will be able to come and private buyers alike. November is the only jewelry Show throughout the year buy new iconic pieces from top ma- month prior to the boost in jewelry sa- in Dubai. The format is an extension nufacturers and worldwide brands. les in the macroregion, which occurs and evolution of the VOD experience during the November to March tourist and DIJW heritage, and is scheduled season and is very close to the end- to take place at an extremely important of-year celebrations. By changing the time of the year —15 to 18 November Show to this date, we have created one 2017 — for jewelry sales in the targe- single Dubai Exhibition which englo- ted markets: the Middle East, Central bes the former VOD show and DIJW. Asia, the Russian Speaking Countries and East Africa. What are DV Global Link's goals for 2017? The Company's first goal is to support the development of this amazing jewelry event with the aim of making it the area's number one show while maintaining the B2B concept, which is highly unique in the Macro Region. We also want to build new opportunities and partnerships in order to organize new Shows in Dubai to complete the incredible portfolio of events that take place in the city. At the same time, through our new projects, we will also provide new companies with the chance to directly access this strategic global trade hub. I’m sure that during the VOD Dubai International Jewellery Show we will be able to give you some very interesting updates on these new ideas! (A.P.)

— 123

Flash News

― CAMEO ITALIANO

The choker opens up to the universe of the cameo. In hand-carved shell and mounted on silver, the charms that dangle on the choker in Cameo Italiano's new collection manage to unite the tradition of an all-Italian process with a model that is now having an effect on the very latest ready-to-wear trends.

― LEBOLE GIOIELLI

Inspiration looks totally to the ― AL CORO Gothic period and its world of symbols, alchemies and dark moods. The Al Coro brand is unstoppable in The earrings, consistently asymme- uniting the desire for refinement and tric so as never to lose sight of this sobriety with the need for modernity characteristic element of the brand, by implementing innovative mate- are made in silver galvanized gold rials. The use of brushed steel is the and pickled black. The all-important proof, always combined with stones surfaces highlight the neo-Gothic in delicate shades and pastel tones, style but with a romantic flair. like the light blue of its iconic cuffs. 124 — Flash News

― KRIA ― LE CAROSE

Its name is Unico and it is Kria Gio- The unrestrainable Salento brand ielli's very latest collection in gold has launched a line dedicated to gre- and diamonds with an all-masculine at women, from the worlds of fashion declination. In rubber, gold and dia- and film, who have left their mark: monds, the bracelets are designed Audrey Hepburn, Coco Chanel and to be worn one on top of the other Marilyn Monroe. The Queen collec- and give men's jewelry a new and tion never betrays the brand's ironic extremely captivating mood. spirit and features a series of pendants with a famous phrase engraved on the back.

― BULGARI

The tribute is explicit. The newly born B.Zero 1 Design Legend by Bul- gari pays homage to its deviser, the architect, Zaha Hadid, who passed away last year. The new collection of the famous ring re-inter- prets the initial design inspired by the Coli- seum but is lighter while keeping the proportions, volumes and shape. ― KARIZIA

Tassel pendants, plaited necklaces or chokers. The world of Karizia's Trend line is constantly forging ahead to celebrate the company's thirtieth anniversary with new items in silver. Light, easy to wear, just perfect with any outfit and in line with the latest fashion input. Flash News — 125

― QAYTEN

The collection is called Ve- nice. Created as a tribute to the lagoon city and one of its ancient legends, it is inter- preted as delicate lace, typi- cal of Burano Island. The necklace, in diamonds and white pearls, originates from a balance of voluminous spirals, that, together, bring to ― DIAMA life an authentic total white ― AMEN recollection. The new brand Diama has decided to come out for the first time on the USA Silver and zircons in a winning mar- market with an offer of six collections riage that strengthens the identity of made in 18 carat yellow, white and the Amen brand in all its most iconic pink gold, embellished by Swarovski collections. From crowns to angels, Created Diamonds. The company to southern crosses, the Lord's prayer chose to use laboratory-created dia- and rosaries, just to name a few, the monds that guarantee the same qua- entire Amen world summarizes the lity as natural ones. A strong point desire for spirituality with little sen- that gives the company a position on timental jewelry items that you never the Fine Jewelry market. want to be without. 126 — Flash News

― EVANUEVA

Evanueva continues its journey towards exalting femininity with highly sensual jewelry. Its latest collections feature Greta earrings, an authentic ode to the woman, in which degradé faceted cut and profiled rubies domi- nate from an elegant pavé.

― BOCCADAMO

With this vivacious line dedicated to watches, the new TooBe collection confirms its positioning in a watch segment aimed at a young and spi- ― DAMIANI rited public. Entirely made of non- allergic silicone, the watches come in The Valenza brand Damiani will be blowing out ninety candles this year. And a wide range of colors, often playing the only way to celebrate such a prestigious birthday was to entrust its masterly with fluorescent shades. Soft and fle- team of craftsmen with the task of recreating a perfectly respectable stylistic xible, they are designed for both ma- timeline with one-of-a-kind items for each decade. Above all, the Fifties sautoir les and females with slight aesthetic necklace Tassel, in pink gold and diamonds. differences. Brandlist — 127

A D G M S

Aida Bergsen Dalila Pasotti Giambattista Valli Marc Jacobs Sabine Getty aidabergsen.com dalilapasotti.com giambattistavalli.com marcjacobs.com sabinegetty.com

Al Coro Damiani Gioielleria Pennisi Margherita Burgener Sammie Jo Coxon alcoro.com damiani.com gioielleriapennisi.it margheritaburgener.com sammiejocoxon.com

Alessio Boschi Daniela Villegas Giovanni Ferraris Maria Tash Sara Robertsson alessio-boschi.com danielavillegas.com ferraris.it venusbymariatash.com sararobertsson.com

All Blues Daou Jewellery Glenn Spiro Maurizio Pintaldi Sarah Ho allblues.se daoujewellery.com glennspiro.com mauriziopintaldi.com shojewellery.com

Amen De Grisogono Goldiaq Moda Operandi Sardo amencollection.com degrisogono.com goldiaq.com modaoperandi.com sardogioielli.it

Amsterdam Sauer Diama Gucci Monique Péan Scarselli Diamonds amsterdamsauer.com.br diamajewelry.com gucci.com moniquepean.com scarselli.com

Anabela Chan Dior Joaillerie H Muriel Grateau Sicis anabelachan.com dior.com murielgrateau.com sicis.com Hannah Martin Anissa Kermiche E hannahmartinlondon.com N Stefania Pramma anissakermiche.com pramma.com Elisabetta Cipriani I Nancy Newberg Annelise Michelson elisabettacipriani.com nancynewberg.com Sutra annelisemichelson.com Inesiene sutrajewels.com Ellery inesiene.com Netali Nissim Artemest ellery.com netalinissim.com Suzanne Syz artemest.com Isabella del Bono suzannesyz.ch Emanuela Duca isabelladelbono.com Nikos Koulis B emanueladuca.com nikoskoulis.gr T K Barbara Donninelli Ettore Sottsass Noor Fares Tabbah barbaradonninelli.com ettoresottsass.it Karizia noorfares.com tabbah.com karizia.it Boccadamo Eva Fehren O Tejen boccadamo.com evafehren.com Kathaline Page-Guth tejen-collection.com kathalinepageguth.it Oblik Atelier Buccellati Evan oblik-atelier.com The Metropolitan buccellati.com evanscollection.com Kim Mee Hye Museum of Art kimmeehye.com P metmuseum.org Bulgari Evanueva bulgari.com evanueva.it Kria Gioielli Paola Brussino V kriagioielli.it paolabrussino.it Busatti Milano F Valentino busattisrl.com L Paola Grande Gioielli valentino.com Fabio Cammarata paolagrandegioielli.com C fabiocammarata.it LaDoubleJ Van Cleef & Arpels ladoublej.com Paola Vilas vancleefarpels.com Cameo Italiano Fabio Salini paolavilas.com cameoitaliano.it fabiosalini.it Le Carose VanLeles lecarose.com Paolo Piovan Gioielli vanleles.com Carla Amorim Faraone Casa d’Aste paolopiovan.com carlaamorim.com.br faraonecasadaste.it Le Vian Venyx levian.com Picchiotti venyxworld.com Carlo Barberis Faraone Gioielli picchiotti.it carlobarberis.com faraonegioielli.it Lebole Gioielli Vhernier lebolegioielli.it Piero Milano vhernier.it Casato Featherstone piero-milano.it casatogioielli.com featherstonedesign.com Leo Pizzo Voga Gioielli leopizzo.com Pomellato vogagioielli.it Chanel Joaillerie Federica Rettore pomellato.com chanel.com federicarettore.com Louis Vuitton W louisvuitton.com Q Charlotte Chesnais Fernando Jorge Wallace Chan charlottechesnais.fr fernandojorge.co.uk Louisa Guinness Qayten wallace-chan.com Gallery qayten.net Cleto Munari louisaguinnessgallery.com Wendy Yue cletomunari.com R wendyyue.com Luce di Carrara Crivelli lucedicarrara.it Roberto Bravo X crivelligioielli.com robertobravo.com Xenia Bous Roberto Coin xeniabous.com robertocoin.com Y Roger Thomas therogerthomascollection.com Yewn yewn.com

Yvonne Léon yvonneleon.com 128 — Last Word

Dreamlike

ith extreme de- licacy and kee- W ping her feet so- lidly on the ground, for her first chez Dior fashion show, Maria Grazia Chiuri recreates a dream-like labyrinth as a tribute to the fashion house's seventieth anniversary. At a couture dance, in which all Monsieur's dearest symbols come back to life, among tiaras and flowing dresses, the galvanized copper jewelry by artist Claude Lalanne add further empha- sis to this dreamy bucolic dimension, amid necklaces with huge butterflies and floral designs.