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Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology, Kumasi KWAME NKRUMAH UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, KUMASI, GHANA AUXILIARIES FOR ORGANIC MATERIALS IN COSTUME JEWELLERY By JOYCE TWIRI AMPAH (MRS.) (B.A INTEGRATED ART AND INDUSTRY) A thesis submitted to the department of Integrated Rural Art and Industry in the Faculty of Art College of Art and Built Environment, In partial fulfillment of the requirement for the award of the degree MASTER OF PHILOSOPHY AUGUST, 2018 DECLARATION I hereby declare that this thesis is the researcher’s work undertaken under supervision, and that it contains no material that has been presented either in whole or in part to any other institution for the award of a degree or certificate except where due acknowledgements have been made. Joyce Twiri Ampah (Mrs.) ………………….. ………………… (20393983) Signature Date Certified by: Dr. Kafui Kwesi Agyeman …………….…… ………………….. (Supervisor) Signature Date Harold Awuley-Quaye …………….…… ………………….. (Internal Examiner) Signature Date Certified by: Dr. Rudolf Steiner …...…………….. ………………….. (Head of Department) Signature Date i ABSTRACT Organic materials have been the cradle for jewellery design. However, jewellery findings which are the basic components needed to complement its application for costume jewellery has seen a setback in development. The aim of this study was to design jewellery findings (auxiliaries) for organic materials in costume jewellery. Philosophically, this research hinges on the sustainable design approach to promote green technology for a sustainable environment by designing auxiliaries for organic materials to be used for costume jewellery creation. To fulfill the aim of the study, the objectives were to: investigate the types of findings for costume jewellery; and investigate existing organic jewellery emphasizing the jewellery findings employed and to design auxiliaries for some selected organic materials, demonstrating its adaptability for costume jewellery. The study focused attention on flamboyant seeds, bovine femur bone, ceriths, coconut shells and date seeds stemming from varied sources of organic materials. The research employed copper wire as the main material and the non-soldering technique of forming jewellery in the design of the auxiliaries for easy adaptability. The researcher employed the descriptive and experimental research designs for the study. The population for the study comprised organic materials, jewellery findings, organic jewellery and some metals employing the random and purposive sampling methods. In conclusion, the research projects the creation of auxiliaries as complements for the popularization of organic materials in costume jewellery design. ii DEDICATION To the Almighty God I dedicate this thesis for His grace and mercy towards me in carrying out this study. This work is also dedicated to my dear husband Mr. Benjamin Twiri Ampah for his immense support and encouragement and to my lovely son Kwame Anim Twiri Ampah iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS My gratitude goes to Dr. Kafui Kwesi Agyeman, Department of Integrated Rural Art and Industry for his guidance and recommendations through the research. I also wish to thank Mr. Harold Awuley-Quaye, Department of Integrated Rural Art and Industry for his constructive critique. Special thanks also to Mr. Paul K. Tandoh and staff of the Horticulture Department, KNUST for their contribution towards this study. I also wish to express my profound gratitude to everyone who contributed in diverse ways for the success of this work. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS DECLARATION i ABSTRACT ii DEDICATION iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS iv TABLE OF CONTENTS v LIST OF TABLES xi LIST OF FIGURES xii LIST OF PLATES xiv LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS xx CHAPTER ONE 1 INTRODUCTION 1 1.1 Overview 1 1.2 Background to the study 1 1.3 Statement of the problem 2 1.4 Objectives 3 1.5 Research questions 3 1.6 Delimitation 4 1.7 Importance of the study 4 1.8 Definition of terms 5 1.9 Abbreviations 6 1.10 Arrangement of the rest of the text 6 v CHAPTER TWO 7 REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE 7 2.1 Overview 7 2.2 Theoretical framework 7 2.3 Jewellery 7 2.3.1 Jewellery and jewellery significance 7 2.3.2 Jewellery concepts 9 2.3.3 Classifications of jewellery 10 2.3.4 Types of jewellery 13 2.3.5 Types of ornaments 16 2.3.6 Jewellery accessories 23 2.4 Costume jewellery 24 2.4.1 Concept of costume jewellery 24 2.4.2 Costume jewellery materials & processing 26 2.5 Review of some organic jewellery 29 2.6 Concept of jewellery findings 34 2.6.1 Definition of Jewellery findings 34 2.6.2 Types of jewellery findings 36 2.6.2.1 Functional Jewellery Findings 37 2.6.2.2 Decorative Jewellery Findings 39 2.6.2.3 Hybrid Jewellery Findings 39 2.6.3 Materials for jewellery findings 40 2.6.4 Suitable materials for making jewellery findings 41 vi 2.6.5 Processes of making jewellery findings 42 2.6.5.1 Making links and chains 44 2.6.6 Techniques employed for making jewellery findings 45 2.6.6.1 Filigree 45 2.6.6.2 Piercing 45 2.6.6.3 Casting 45 2.6.6.4 Soldering 46 2.6.7 Finishing & finishes for jewellery findings 47 2.6.7.1 Finishing techniques 49 2.6.7.1.1 Colouring metals 51 2.7 Concept of auxiliaries 52 2.7.1 Definition of auxiliaries 52 2.8 Scope of organic materials 53 2.8.1 Classifications of organic materials 54 2.8.2 Sources of organic materials 55 2.9 Philosophical foundations 55 2.10 Research methodology 58 2.10.1 Qualitative methods 58 2.10.2 Quantitative methods 60 2.10.3 Mixed methods 61 2.10.4 Research designs 63 2.10.5 Population of the study 63 2.10.6 Sampling procedure 64 vii CHAPTER THREE 65 METHODOLOGY 65 3.1 Overview 65 3.2 Conceptual framework 65 3.3 Research design 66 3.4 Population for the study 67 3.5 Sampling techniques 83 3.6 Specific treatment of objectives 83 3.6.1 Objective one: Investigation into types of findings for costume jewellery 83 3.6.1.1 Data needed 83 3.6.1.2 Data collection methods 84 3.6.1.3 Data collection instruments 84 3.6.1.4 Data analyses/treatment of data 84 3.6.2 Objective two: Investigation into existing organic jewellery, emphasizing the jewellery findings employed. 86 3.6.2.1 Data needed 86 3.6.2.2 Data collection methods 86 3.6.2.3 Data collection instruments 87 3.6.2.4 Data analyses/treatment of data 87 3.6.3 Objective three 89 3.6.3.1 Data needed 89 3.6.3.2 Data collection methods 89 3.6.3.3 Data collection instruments 90 viii 3.6.3.4 Data analyses/treatment of data 90 3.6.3.5 Designing the auxiliaries 98 3.6.3.6 The flamboyant seeds 99 3.6.3.7 The coconut shell 102 3.6.3.8 The cerith shells 105 3.6.3.9 The cattle femur bone 108 3.6.3.10 the date palm seeds 111 CHAPTER FOUR 113 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 113 4.1 Overview 113 4.2 Adaptability of auxiliaries for organic materials 113 4.2.1 Application of flamboyant seed auxiliaries 113 4.2.2 Application of coconut shell auxiliaries 115 4.2.3 Application of cerith auxiliaries 116 4.2.4 Application of femur bone auxiliaries 117 4.2.5 Application of date seed auxiliaries 117 4.3 Relationship between jewellery findings and auxiliaries 119 4.3.1 Complimentary role of jewellery findings 119 ix CHAPTER FIVE 122 SUMMARY OF FINDINGS, CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION 122 5.1 Overview 122 5.2 Summary of findings 122 5.3 Conclusion 124 5.4 Recommendations 125 5.4.1 Further studies 125 5.4.2 Facilities 125 5.4.3 Tools and equipment 125 REFERENCES 127 APPENDICES 135 APPENDIX ONE: Drawings on comparison of Characteristic physical features of materials 135 APPENDIX TWO: CorelDraw representation of possible conversion of materials 137 APPENDIX THREE: Bone processing 138 APPENDIX FOUR: Sample earrings with supporting auxiliaries 140 APPENDIX FIVE: Processing of ceriths 142 APPENDIX SIX: Other auxiliaries 143 x LIST OF TABLES TABLE PAGE Table 2.1: Tabular representation of necklace types [Source: Arora, 2015] 12 Table 3.1: list of organic materials identified for possible jewellery units 69 Table 3.2: Categorization of materials showing the form in which it could be used 90 Table 3.3 Assessment criteria of organic materials for jewellery units 91 Table 3.4: Assessment criteria of materials for auxiliaries 92 xi LIST OF FIGURES Figure 2.1: varying types of neck ornaments according to length with designated names. 12 Fig.2.2: representation of the omega clip 38 Fig.2.3 shows the use of jump rings to connect other units to form a chain 44 Fig. 2.4: assorted niobium earring hook findings 47 Fig. 2.5: visual demonstration of threading finishing technique 49 Fig. 2.6: visual demonstration of burnishing finishing technique 50 Fig. 2.7: varying punch impressions used for finishing 50 Fig. 2.8: visual demonstration of buffing finishing technique 50 Fig. 2.9: degrees of colour change of metal at the application of heat 51 Fig. 3.1: Diagrammatic framework of methodology 66 Fig. 3.2: Diagrammatic summary of the population 67 Fig. 3.3 A&B: characteristic similarity of cowries, Africa star apple seed and date seed upon analysis 93 Fig. 3.4 A, B, C: some basic arrangements of units in jewellery design 94 Fig. 3.5: characteristic and conversional strategies of coconut shell 94 Fig. 3.6: characteristic and conversional strategies of bamboo and femur bone 95 Fig. AP1.1: characteristic comparison of date, cowry Africa star apple & flamboyant 135 Fig.
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