INSIDE: Venice’s Ca Maria Adele 4 Not Your Average Florentine Deli 5 Ferragamo Museum 6 New Year’s in Italy 7 THE An Italian Housewife in Hollywood 8 DETAILS Dinner is served on the journey between Rome and Venice.

The Venice-Rome-Venice train runs on the following Sundays in 2006: dream of May 7, 14 June 4, 18 October 1, 8 Venice-Rome (day trip): $675 per person based on double occupancy. Departs Venice at 9:28 a.m. and arrives in Rome at 5:15 p.m. Rome-Venice (overnight): ITALYVolume 4, Issue 9 www.dreamofitaly.com December 2005 $970 per person based on double occupancy. ALL ABOARD! Departs Rome 8:05 p.m. and arrives in Venice at 9:28 a.m. Fares for children: Rome to Venice on Those 11 or under and sharing a double cabin with one adult, the Orient-Express travel at a 20% discount. Children under two travel free. or those who think the Orient- order. In fact, my entire trip to Italy Express exists only in the movies this fall was scheduled around this Venice and Rome Package: F (case in point, the film journey, which always starts Orient-Express offers a special package adaptation of Agatha on a Sunday. The Venice to that includes the overnight ride Christie’s Murder on the Rome run takes place during between Rome and Venice. A Journey Orient-Express) and the history the day, with passengers Through History also includes two nights books, think again. The Venice served lunch on board. Rome at the Hotel Eden in Rome, two nights Simplon Orient-Express is to Venice is an overnight trip, at Venice’s Hotel Cipriani and transfers. indeed alive and well, carry- leaving Rome just before din- Cost is $4,465 per person. ing 15,000 passengers yearly, ner Sunday and arriving in Other multi-day Venice Simplon on stylish journeys between La Serenissima just after Orient-Express journeys: European capitals. While the breakfast on Monday. Venice-Budapest-London London-Paris-Venice route is Venice-Vienna-London the train’s most famous itiner- While I am always eager to Venice-Prague-Paris-London ary, few people realize it is possible to try something special on my visits to Venice-Paris-London (or vice versa) ride the Orient-Express within Italy Italy, the chance to ride on this famous London-Paris-Venice-Rome itself, between Venice and Rome, and train has added meaning for me. My vice versa. late grandfather, whom I was especial- The Orient-Express operates ly close to and with whom I spent between March and November. The opportunity presents itself just six practically every day of my childhood, For more information: times (see sidebar for 2006 dates) a was a railroad engineer for over 50 (800) 524-2420 year however, so careful planning is in continued on page 2 www.orient-express.com Italy has 12,044 miles of train track. “I have trains Orient-Express continued from page 1 if not,

years, beginning shortly after World show us the various features War I. He taught me to sing“I’ve of the cabin, explain that he Been Working on the Railroad,” is just down the hall if we told me the legend of Casey Jones need anything at any time and recounted the highlights of his and ask us what time we days on the rails — from meeting would like to have dinner as Harry Truman (he greeted the crew well as when he should with, “How ya doin’ boys?”) to cross- deliver breakfast to our ing New York’s Hell’s Gate Bridge on cabin. his runs between New York City and our goal tonight. The check-in New Haven, Connecticut, on the New desk for the Orient-Express is just I ask about the number of York, New Haven and Hartford beyond the curb. people on board and the train Railroad. I have trains in my blood and engine. He says that there are just 40 can’t wait to ride one of, if not, the We are directed to wait for the train in people on our journey tonight, most legendary train in the world. a roped-off corner of the snack bar. although there had been 135 passen- My mother and I now realize why our gers on the day trip from Venice. Given The original Orient-Express was travel documents urge us not to arrive my nostalgia for trains, I am disap- founded in the 1880s by Georges at the station too early. There aren’t pointed to learn that modern engines Nagelmackers, founder of Compagnie any special waiting-room facilities for pull the Venice Simplon Orient-Express Internationale des Wagons-Lits et des Orient-Express passengers, as there carriages, yet it makes sense. Within Grands Express Europeens. The popu- are in Venice, and the ambiance of a Italy, a Trenitalia engine and crew is larity of the Orient-Express increased train station snack bar doesn’t really used and when the train crosses inter- when the Simplon Tunnel was built in set the mood for the “most celebrated national borders, an engine from the 2 1906, significantly reducing train in the world.” new country takes over. the trip between Paris and Venice. The luxury train While our experience at Since the train’s promotional materials enjoyed its heyday during the station is disappoint- assure us that “you can never be over- the 1920s and 1930s. World ing, our first look at the dressed on the Orient-Express,” my War II and the age of air- carriages is not. Every mother and I don short cocktail plane travel reduced inch of the black carriages dresses, my silk brown ruffled dress demand for the service and shine as if they are brand reminiscent of the 1920s. Most of the although the original train operated new and many of the passengers stop male guests are wearing tuxedos, into the 1970s, it appealed to a less to take photos. As we climb on board although nice suits are not out of place. sophisticated crowd. and reach our cabin, the sense of awe only increases. Each of the three dining cars seems In 1977, entrepreneur James Sherwood more opulent than the next. Our table, bought two of the train’s carriages at a My mother and I are the envy of our in a carriage decorated in dark wood Sotheby’s. He spent the next few years neighbors — a British couple celebrat- and Lalique crystal, is covered in a and $16 million locating, purchasing ing an anniversary — as we have a crisp white linen table cloth and VSOE- and restoring some 35 vintage sleepers, cabin suite, with two interconnecting engraved china and crystal. We sit in Pullmans and restaurant cars. On May double cabins, giving us double the grayish-blue velvet chairs topped with 22, 1982, the reborn Venice Simplon room of a double cabin (at about one lace runners. Orient-Express made its maiden run and a half times the cost). The jealousy from London to Venice. may be warranted as the cabins are My mother and I raise our glasses of small (that’s why they encourage us to Prosecco (this is complimentary, but My mother and I arrive at Rome’s take a small bag for the night and wine ordered during dinner is extra) to Ostiense Station about an hour before check the rest of our luggage) but they toast my grandfather and a journey he our 8:05 p.m. departure for Venice. are so richly decorated and detailed. would have loved. Although my While our journey will take about 13 grandparents traveled all over the hours, Trenitalia’s Eurostar train takes Dressed in a crisp blue uniform, our world following my grandfather’s less than five hours; but speed is not cabin steward Michael appears to retirement, they never had the oppor- The inaugural run of the original Orient-Express took in my blood and can’t wait to ride one of, THE most legendary train in the world.”

tunity to ride the Orient-Express. We’re any celebrities who have been on top hotels. Yet it is hard to put a price quite sure though, that they are with board. He lists off author J.K. Rowling tag on how unique the Orient-Express us in spirit tonight. We are seated next and musician Keith Richards and adds experience is, especially for those of us to the windows but since it is dark out that John Travolta hopped on the who love trains. The journey is ideal there is very little to see, except the Venice to London train along with for those celebrating a special occasion, lights of the small town train stations about 15 friends and family, following such as a honeymoon or anniversary. we pass along the way. this year’s Venice Film Festival. In case With children welcome on board, a I win the lottery, I ask about the cost of night on the train would certainly be The head chef for the Venice Simplon renting out the entire train for a private the highlight of any family vacation. Orient-Express, Christian Bodiguel, has event. It costs approximately $275,000 prepared a four-course menu for this for three days. We sit by the windows as evening. Passengers can also choose Venice comes into view. from an a la carte menu (duck, lobster, Returning to our cabin, we Leaving the train and collect- caviar) for an additional fee. The meal find our sofas turned into ing our luggage, we walk by begins with a vegetable and ham pas- beds with a VSOE night the train staff, lined up to bid try. Our main entrée is braised beef shirt, VSOE slippers and a us farewell. Our departure is seasoned with rosemary, topped with small box of candies waiting on each not unlike leaving a time machine, I foie gras, accompanied by buttered bed. My mother and I each had the think to myself. Luckily, Venice awaits. broccoli and roast potatoes. The dinner lower bunk in our connected cabins If anything can compare to this beauti- proceeds at a perfect pace and next we (suite). Alternatively, a couple may ful, mysterious and historic train, it is enjoy a choice of excellent Italian have the upper and lower bunk of one certainly this city, that holds the same cheeses. The meal is topped off with an cabin turned into beds and continue to fine attributes. exquisite iced meringue studded with use the other cabin as a sitting area. chocolate flakes. dream of 3 At this point, enquiring minds proba- What makes dinner on the Orient- bly want to know about the bathroom Express and indeed the situation. Each cabin has a ITALY entire VSOE experience is wash basin with hot and the service. Our interna- cold water. Although there Kathleen A. McCabe Publisher and Editor-In-Chief tional waiters are of the are lovely, wood-paneled

highest caliber, conducting bathrooms with toilets at Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe a finely-tuned performance the end of each carriage, Editorial Assistant: Shauna Maher Design: Leaird Designs of sorts, with a friendly, yet there are no showers on www.leaird-designs.com understated demeanor. board. Those traveling on They clearly understand the meaning the Orient-Express on multi-day jour- Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. of this once-in-a-lifetime experience for neys spend some evenings in hotels. Delivery by mail is $79 per year in the United States their guests. and $95 abroad. An Internet subscription (download- able PDF) costs $69 per year. Subscriptions include The rhythm of the rails lulls me into a online access to back issues and regular e-mail updates. After dinner, we join General Manager sound sleep and I wake up well rested. Three ways to subscribe: Bruno Janssens for after-dinner drinks One advantage of the suite configura- 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, Washington, DC, 20016 in the bar car. The first half of the car- tion is that my mother, an early riser, 2. Call 1-877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 riage consists of sultry brown velvet gets up without disturbing me. She has 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa loveseats and small tables for drinks. asked Michael to come by at 7:00 a.m. and Mastercard accepted) A piano player tickles the ivories of a and he arrives with a tray of rolls, Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] baby grand in the middle of the car pastries, coffee and fruit juice. Advertising opportunities are available. and the bar is at the end. It is hard to E-mail: [email protected] fully describe the electricity of the With a price increase for 2006, a night Copyright © 2005 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights scene; I practically expect a tuxedo- on the Orient-Express costs nearly Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide clad man to appear and announce that $2,000 per couple. Comparatively, the information that is accurate and reliable; however, a murder has been committed and be same amount would buy a night in a Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that asked to solve it. I ask Janssens about room or even a suite at any of Italy’s may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com place in October of 1883 between Paris and Romania. Venetian Enchantment Resides at Ca Maria Adele

rothers Alessio and Nicola Campa include: the Doge’s room, the fireside proudly notes that Maria Adele is searched for five years to room, the Oriental room, the usually in the top five of B find the ideal location for Moorish room and la sala TripAdvisor.com’s Venice hotels.) their Venetian hotel, finally settling noir. The photos on the Web While November is usually low season on a decaying 16th-century site can help potential for Venice, the hotel was fully booked building, owned by the guests match a room nearly every night. last descendant of an to their taste, how- aristocratic family, a ever the fireside room Alessio Campa is really the face of stone’s throw from and Moorish room seem Maria Adele, orchestrating the full the Church of Santa Maria della to have the broadest guest experience. He Salute. appeal. The latter comes worked for Hilton in complete with an expan- hotels all over the world, Remarkably, by Venetian, and even sive space, deep blue fab- with his last position in Italian standards, the Campas, descen- rics, statues of Moors and London. Though a dants of a glassmaking family from the an up-close view of the young man, Alessio island of Murano, and their crew brilliant white exterior of learned numerous les- stripped the building down to the Salute. sons from his Hilton beams and rebuilt it in just a year. (It years and has decided ideas on helps to be natives.) Thus Ca Maria Given the appeal of the hotel’s atmos- providing guests with a unique, yet Adele — named in honor of the broth- phere, it’s not surprising that Maria unpretentious experience. 4 ers’ grandmothers — one Adele hosted the cast and of Venice’s newest, and crew of Casanova, the Alessio is hands-on and practically certainly most spectacular forthcoming film directed mesmerized with details. Ask him boutique hotels — was by Lasse Hallstrom. about the mirrors in the rooms and he born, opening in April of British and French travel- will tell you how they were specially 2004. ers are among the hotel’s selected to give a realistic reflection, most frequent guests without shadows. When a guest com- The name may be a mis- though word-of-mouth plains of a cold, he goes to the kitchen nomer however, for while Ca Maria and some select press has increased the to prepare warm milk and honey. Adele may be warm and cozy, it cer- number of American visitors. (Alessio Another Alessio detail — as guests tainly isn’t in a grandmotherly check out, they are given a paper- way, but rather the result of the weight with a hand-painted mysterious ambiance evoked by Venetian scene, as a memento. the East-meets-West, past-meets- THE DETAILS modern décor and design. The While some may debate Ca Maria CA MARIA ADELE small and minimalist lobby, deco- Adele’s location, it really provides Dorsoduro, 111 rated in earth tones and lit almost the best of both worlds, a quiet (39) 041 5203078 exclusively by candles, is an invit- and intimate refuge, with easy www.camariaadele.it ing escape from a damp and rainy accessibility to St. Mark’s and the Venetian winter day. Rates: Rooms cost between 300 more popular (or crowded) areas and 600€ per night, including of Venice. The hotel is a minute Maria Adele’s 14 rooms (including breakfast. The suite (with private from the Salute vaparetto stop — one suite) include five “concept” terrace and Jacuzzi) and five which is one stop away from St. or theme rooms. While they are concept rooms command the Mark’s. The surrounding more expensive than the deluxe highest rates. Special packages are Dorsoduro neighborhood offers the rooms, the extra cost is worth the featured on the hotel Web site. Peggy Guggenheim Museum, added ambiance evoking the rich shopping, art galleries and some history of this city. The rooms excellent new restaurants. “There is, in fact, no law or government at all [in Italy]; and it is Osteria de l’Ortolano: NOT YOUR AVERAGE ITALIAN DELI

steria de l’Ortolano doesn’t show The primi all look good, so we choose and other meal makings have yielded up in the guidebooks to an assaggio of the chestnut risotto and ground not only to prepared foods but O Florence. But if you happen to two kinds of pasta. The secondo will be to the glories of the deli case. Consider live or work in the neighborhood, just a arista, Tuscan roast pork redolent of prosciutto. The choices range from couple of blocks from the Duomo, you’ll rosemary, fennel and garlic, with roast prosciutto toscano (the saltiest) to surely know this popular gastronomia. vegetables. Marta selects enough prosciutto di Parma (the most popular) apples, pears and fat grapes to fill a to prosciutto di Cinta Senese made from On a crisp fall day, around noon, a bowl back at the prized black-and-white pigs (at 80€ throng of customers eye half a dozen apartment and per kilo, the most expensive). steaming platters just arrived from the cuts two chunks kitchen, one floor below. Among For visitors who want to take home them are penne with a mildly something special, Marta suggests a picante tomato-olive sauce, a chunk of four-year-old Parmigiano- hearty farro soup and an unusual Reggiano. The shop also stocks risotto made with chestnuts. delicacies such as salted “They’ve just come into season Sicilian capers, artisan pastas and I thought, why not?” says and saffron grown near San Massimo Zetti, scooping a handful Gimignano, Marta’s hometown. of the nuts from an open sack and A bottle of vin santo is another spreading his fingers to let them fall possible memento. Massimo’s through. passion for the amber elixir is 5 evident in the shelf upon shelf After two days in Florence, my of locally devoted to various labels, including his husband and I are already tired of made pecori- own. Massimo opposes biscotti dunking, overpriced restaurant meals in the no, one aged on the grounds that “it helps the biscotti company of other foreigners. So when and the other a softer “semi stagionato.” but not the wine;” a well-made vin Richard, a retired Renaissance history Half a loaf of bread, a bottle of a pleas- santo deserves to be sipped alone, in professor, invites us to lunch in his ant 10€ Maremma red and we’re done. his view. apartment on via Ricasoli, we are more The tab for a three-course, three-person than ready. Provisions are needed and meal: 46€. Not cheap, but a value Returning later that afternoon, we sit at that’s how we find ourselves among compared to an equivalent meal in a the common table as he opens a bottle Ortolano’s hungry clientele. According Florentine restaurant. of barrique-aged spumante from Verona to our friend, it’s the only gastronomia and brings out almond-studded cook- in the city’s center that offers a chang- An ortolano is a produce vendor and, ies from his own kitchen. They look ing array of high-quality, freshly pre- indeed, Osteria de l’Ortolano started identical to biscotti di Prato but here, in pared dishes. Both Massimo and his out as an outlet for the produce Florence, they’re called cantucci and wife, Marta Medzetti, have earned Massimo’s parents grew Massimo’s happen to be Cordon Bleu diplomas, which are just outside Florence. Now “molto croccante.” “I’d displayed proudly on the wall. that high living costs have THE DETAILS probably sell more if they driven many families to were softer,” he muses. Some customers carry their meals to a the suburbs, however, the OSTERIA DE L’ORTOLANO ”But I don’t have to sell long wooden table flanked by racks typical customer is not a Via Degli Alfani, #91/r-93/r sacks and sacks, so I’m filled with 300 wines, all except the housewife shopping for www.osteriafirenze.com going to keep making them French champagne bearing Italian lasagne or minestrone ingre- Hours: 10 a.m. - 8 p.m., Monday to the way I like them.” labels. Other people walk out with cus- dients, but a single person Friday; 10 a.m. - 2 p.m., Saturday. tom-built panini—on another day, we or office worker with less Closed Sunday and August. —Toni Lydecker might do the same; instead, we’re intent time and inclination to 1 € = $1.18 at press time on putting together a mid-day feast. cook. Inevitably, produce wonderful how well things go on without them.” —Lord Byron News, Tips, Deals Florence’s FERRAGAMO MUSEUM Celebrates the Art of Shoes et me start with a disclo- “never looked back.” The Lsure—I love shoes: I like restrictions of war spurred the variety of colors; the his ingenuity: he plaited gold smell and feel of leather or and silver threads with choco- suede; above all, having a late wrappings for sandal good selection when I dress straps. Salvatore Ferragamo’s in the morning. I don’t have enduring, sophisticated appeal as many shoes as I want, but what woman Whatever the material in their manufacture, is shown in a 1955 photograph of shoe lasts does? And, after a breathtaking morning at Ferragamo’s styling is captivating. Suede and (wooden models) with the customer’s name Florence’s Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, I want kid ghillies, cork and suede labeled on each—the Duchess more, especially the exquisitely crafted exam- wedges, three-inch leather heels, of Windsor, Greta Garbo, Anna ples in this charming museum. It’s above the satin and grosgrain sandals— Magnani, Lauren Bacall and Clara Ferragamo store in Palazzo Spini Feroni on striking combinations, beautiful- [sic] Boothe Luce were all 6 the fashionable Via dei Tornabuoni. ly fashioned in soft yet alluring satisfied customers. colors—are all a visual treat for Approximately 100 pairs of shoes are the shoe fancier, as well as anyone who So, on your next visit to the medieval won- arranged in glass cases on the walls of sever- appreciates fine craftsmanship. Even a shoe ders of Florence, don’t neglect the marvels of al rooms, one of which includes described as having an orthopedic a 20th-century artist in the Museo Salvatore a continuous showing of the life sole looks beautiful, even more Ferragamo. and work of their creator, so to a visitor with tired feet. Salvatore Ferragamo. (These are Via dei Tornabuoni,2 only a small percentage of the The master, called “shoemaker (39) 055 3360 45455 10,000 shoes, produced between to the stars” in the museum www.salvatoreferragamo.it 1927 and 1960, that the museum displays on brochure, was apprenticed to a shoemaker at Free admission. For groups of 10 to 30, a rotation.) His use of beautiful leather and an early age, and joined one broth- reservations are required and must be suede is irresistible—so much so that I want- er at a shoe factory in Boston arranged at least one week in advance of the visit. ed to open every case to stroke the con- before moving to Santa tents, especially one with a blue leather shoe Barbara, California, to live with Hours: Open Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m and 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. laced up the front. It was modest compared another brother, who was a with others, but the sheen of the soft leather costume assistant at a movie studio in Closed: Month of August, December 23 through January 6, Good Friday, Easter held my attention. Ferragamo’s creativity in Hollywood. It wasn’t long before Ferragamo Monday and every national holiday. crafting shoes from relatively poor materials, was making shoes for actors and opening the such as raffia and cork, a necessity during Hollywood Boot Shop. Returning to Italy, he — Mary Brady Service World War II, was brilliant and remains established his operations in Florence in the pleasing to the eye decades later. late 1920s, recovered from bankruptcy in 1933, and, as they would say in Hollywood, 1 € = $1.18 at press time 37 million tourists visited Italy in 2004, makin and Events G Traversing Italy by Train

hink two weeks is too short T to see the best Italy has to offer? Think again.Train aficiona- dos and Italophiles alike will love A Railfan’s Italy: Brenner Pass to PIAZZAS AND PROSECCO: the Boot, a two-week train tour Genoa-Casella Railway coordinated by The Society of New Year’s Eve in Italy International Railway Travelers. in 4-star hotels. The trip is led by an English-speaking rail specialist From Verona to Venice, to who will make sure you are treat- ew York’s Times Square isn’t the only Ox. Each New Year’s Eve residents follow a Palermo and Acireale, you’ll hit ed well both on and off the tracks. Nsquare that knows how to throw a white ox adorned with ribbons and flowers the major Italian cities and coasts There will be a mix of organized New Year’s Eve party. Italy’s city squares to Piazza di San Petronio. without the hassle of navigating tours and meals and free time offer less flashy alternatives to the raucous the autostradas.The trip begins on as well.The trip costs $5,899 New York crowds. On December 31, locals May 8, 2006 in Munich and ends per person, based on double and tourists convene in piazzas throughout on May 23 in Milan; in between, occupancy. For more information, the country to ring in the new year with the group will traverse the country call (800) 478-4881 or visit 7 groups of friends and bottles of Prosecco. from the Dolomites to the www.irtsociety.com Those looking to kick off 2006 in Rome Tyrrhenian Sea, riding the rails in should head over to Piazza del Popolo, in first-class-style and spending nights – Shauna Maher the north of the city, where celebrations Board Tourism Italian Government San Gimignano’s towers include performers, fireworks and concerts. Festivities in Florence take place throughout Venice’s St. Mark’s Square floods with people Mark Your the city center, in Piazza della Signoria, awaiting the ringing of the Campanile bell Shopping Calendars! Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della tower at midnight, making New Year’s Eve Repubblica. In Siena, residents pile into perhaps the only time all year that people If there’s one Italian word While you generally won’t have Piazza del Campo for a concert. San outnumber pigeons. For those who prefer every shopper should know, to deal with intolerable crowds Gimignano rings in the new year with the to avoid the crowds all together, hotels I saldi is certainly it. Meaning during saldi days, you can expect help of the bells in its famed towers (and and restaurants throw black-tie gala din- “sales,” this word appears in a certain amount of disorder as of course some Vernaccia). For more than ners. After all the spumante has been store windows across the coun- shoppers search out the best the standard concerts and firework dis- sprayed, brave “polar bear” swimmers take try during stretches of deals. If possible, hit the plays, crowds head to Bologna for La Fiera to the chilly waters off Venice’s Lido Beach the winter and summer stores during the first del Bue Grasso, or the Festival of the Fat on New Year’s Day. Participants are reward- months. Unlike the spon- weeks of saldi for the ed with traditional lentils said to provide taneous sales frequently best selection; come luck for the upcoming year. found in stores in the March the most coveted Whether you join the crowds in St. Mark’s United States, Italy has items will surely be gone, or stay for celebrations stateside, when only two set periods for and some stores may even making plans for the last night of the taking advantage of be completely sold out of year, keep in mind an Italian saying – reduced prices.This win- this season’s sale items! Quel che fai a capodanno, lo fai tutto l’anno! ter’s sales, or i saldi invernali, begin – S.M. What you do on New Year’s, you do all January 7 and generally continue year long! until March 7, with a few regional 1 € = $1.18 at press time Italian Government Tourism Board Tourism Italian Government exceptions. Rome’s Piazza del Popolo – S.M. g it the world’s fifth most popular destination. An Italian Housewife in Hollywood

very time Stefania Barzini, all is our Italian food — Italo- Still, there ís vast room for improve- E a Roman, visited the American concoctions such as ment in American cuisine, and Barzini United States, she was struck parmesan chicken, fettuccine is here to help. In California, she by the number of books she alfredo, and spaghetti and meatballs notices that none of the earthquake found by dissatisfied American with a lethal dose of garlic, which do readiness kits contain any decent food, women who decided to change not exist in Italy. a grave oversight. See her ricetta da their lives by going to Italy. terremoto (earthquake They would renovate a house in But after time, America salad) below. the country, rhapsodize about grows on Barzini. She —Laura Fraser Tuscan food, wax romantic about discovers barbecued ribs, the sly but generous peasants breakfasts in diners, ethnic Casalinga a Hollywood will and then write a best-seller filled restaurants, and regional spe- soon be published in the United States as An Italian Housewife with recipes. cialties like cornbread and jam- in Hollywood. balaya (she includes recipes for her Why not do the opposite? Go live and favorite dishes). She grows fond of the write about the ideal American life, small carnivorous animal in her sink complete with recipes? Treat Los that eats leftovers. She stuffs her own Best wishes from Angeles like Radda in Chianti? Pamela Anderson-breasted turkey at dream of Thanksgiving. Back in Rome, she even And so Barzini, a food writer, packed misses American food. up her pots, pans, and extra virgin olive oil and moved to the Valley, to “Every time I come to the U.S., there’s ITALY 8 the very house, it seemed, where a ritual where I immediately eat all the for a happy and Lassie had lived. (How poor the Lassie things I like,” she says. “Eggs benedict healthy new year! family must have been, she notes, is a must, and so are pancakes.” always having to eat meatloaf and potatoes.) RICETTA DA TERREMOTO (Earthquake Salad): At first, Barzini’s observations are Ingredients: nearly as stereotypical as the idealizing 3 cans cannellini beans American writers she mimics, if 1 onion funnier. She ís surrounded by familiar dried mint horrors: Immense grocery stores that extra virgin olive oil (in a plastic bottle) are polar cold, with neon lights, and salt and pepper (you may use those airplane packets) absolutely no odor of real food; Can opener, plastic bag, knife, spoon, and fork. parmigiano cheese that comes, powdered, in a green can; ricotta pack- Directions: aged in plastic containers, such as Open the cans of beans and pour into the plastic bag. those you build sand castles with (the With a fork, puree a third of them until they are a bit creamy. only possible use for the product); Slice the onion thinly and add to the beans. giant mountains of fruit, a Disneyland Add the salt, pepper, oil and dried mint. of vegetables, and none with any taste. Mix well and serve.

The author notices our contradictions: We buy magnums of chocolate ice cream and fat-free whipped topping. We have so many types of milk, all those percentages, but no real butter (“You Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter? Trust me, you can believe it.”) Worst of 40% of Italians and 83% of Americans read one book last year.