CARL LINNÉ IN HIGH SOCIETY The intriquing and beautiful Society Islands lie a 22-hour flight from Europe, a patch of the Pacific with amazing scenery, friendly people, balmy cruising waters and sensational sealife... and well worth the journey

ying just south of the equator and east of the better option than returning to England under the ABOVE Carl Linné International Date Line, the Society Islands are harsh discipline of a British man-of-war. This view was enters Opunohu Bay, one of two picturesque often considered to be the most beautiful echoed in 1788 by the mutinous crew of Captain L anchorages on archipelago in the Pacific Ocean. Even the earliest William Bligh’s HMS Bounty. And who – other than Moorea’s north shore European visitors, Captain Samuel Wallis on His the British Admiralty – could blame their attachment LEFT A traditional Majesty’s Ship Dolphin in 1767 and, two years later, to these high volcanic islands, whose forest-clad French Polynesian welcome often involves Captain James Cook, who arrived in HM Bark slopes, incised by valleys and rivers, rise to tortured the gift of coconut flesh Endeavour to observe the transit of Venus across the peaks of bare rock many thousands of feet above the FAR LEFT Carl Linné in sun, held this opinion, as did his sailors. Before he protected turquoise waters of their encircling Cook’s Bay, Moorea departed, Cook recovered two deserters who had lagoons? The British, however, were not the only RIGHT Coconut crab is a tasty dish decided that remaining in Tahiti – a land of plenty visitors, nor the only admirers of these islands, and in where nubile women treated them like gods – was a the mid-19th century took them under its

<#l#> DESTINATIONS TAHITI DESTINATIONS TAHITI <#r#> water. To guide us in the latter, we were accompanied imperative. We stayed at the delightful Hilton by the French marine biologist and dive-master Moorea Lagoon Resort, where luxurious palm- Rodolphe Holler and his wife Christelle, who own thatched individual cabins sit on piles that rise Tahiti Private Expeditions, a company that provides from the warm turquoise sea. Our stay was far too customised diving services to visiting superyachts. brief, but somewhat refreshed after two days in Based in Moorea, their intimate knowledge of the heaven we had the luxury of being picked up by local marine life and the best diving sites in which to Carl Linné’s tender directly from our suite’s bathing observe it was invaluable in turning our cruise into a platform. Having sailed the 16 miles from her base voyage of wide-eyed discovery and learning. in Marina Tahina on Tahiti, the yacht was waiting Distance from the rest of the world is perhaps for us in Cook’s Bay, one of the two magnificent Tahiti’s main handicap and, at the same time, her anchorages on Moorea’s northern shore. salvation. Cook’s well-documented voyage from Welcomed aboard by Captain Greg Chivers and London in the Endeavour took almost nine months; his three delightful crew, and settled into our today it takes 22 hours of flight, sufficient to form a magnificent cabin, we relaxed on deck, cool drink in as the first boat to arrive secured the pilotage. Helped TOP The panoramic wing, establishing a strong and lasting connection. barrier to all but the most determined tourists. In hand, to plan our first day. Christelle was expected at by Gerry Dijkstra’s slim underbody with its modern ABOVE Moorean view from Moorea, Today, the islands are a French Overseas Territory and fact, the journey from Europe is not too arduous, any moment, but as an assignment with another fin-and-bulb keel (retractable to reduce draught for children play in boats looking over its lagoon from an early age their citizens French passport holders. broken as it is by a stop in Los Angeles that superyacht had prevented Rodolphe from joining us shallower anchorages), Carl Linné certainly lived up to towards the distant BOTTOM LEFT The island of Tahiti While Western civilisation has now overtaken the effectively creates two separate days, each with time for the first day, we decided on a day sail that would the design needs of her ancestors, thrashing to lighthouse on Point ABOVE Even when formerly relaxed yet warlike ways of their inhabitants, for a meal followed by a nap, which can add up to circumnavigate the island of Moorea, while making a windward at a steady 10 knots over the azure sea. Venus, Tahiti underway, Carl Linné’s these scenic islands remain among the brightest gems 10 hours of sleep in the 22. It is the 11- or 12-hour short stop in Tahiti’s Matavai Bay, another of Captain Three hours later we anchored in the lee of the low BOTTOM RIGHT Captain bowsprit net is a Greg Chivers of the Pacific, providing a magnetic attraction for blue time difference that causes the real difficulty for Cook’s anchorages. In the fresh 18-knot easterly, Carl palm-covered sandspit that is Point Venus, where comfortable perch demonstrates the BOTTOM RIGHT ocean cruising yachts. At the same time, their physical Europeans, while Americans suffer less and Linné really showed off her windward ability as we Cook had anchored 242 years before us. It was also yacht’s windsurfer Stewardess Gabi isolation (2,000 nautical miles to , their Australasians and South East Asian visitors very beat towards Point Venus, the most northerly tip of the anchorage of HMS Pandora, the ship that later Amacker swims with nearest large neighbour, 5,000 to and 3,200 to little. One simply cannot get the best out of a Tahiti. Her design was inspired by the Bristol Channel apprehended the 14 Bounty mutineers who had stingrays in Moorea’s North America) has ensured their exclusivity. holiday while suffering from jet lag, so an initial pilot cutters of the 19th century that raced to meet opted to remain on the island. Our visit was less lagoon Anchorages are never crowded with yachts, while stop at a beachside resort to regain equilibrium is incoming merchant vessels. Being fast was important historic. After a splendid lunch from chef Jinny superyachts are even rarer visitors, with few of those that do visit being available for charter. One such rarity is the 32.4-metre sailing yacht Carl Linné, which Distance from the rest of the world is will charter among the Society Islands and the nearby perhaps Tahiti’s main handicap and, Tuamotu Archipelago for at least a year, and we jumped at the opportunity to experience the reality at the same time, her salvation as a of these fabled islands aboard her. Designed by barrier to all but the most determined Gerard Dijkstra and built by Holland Jachtbouw, this tourists. Cook’s 1769 voyage took is a yacht with a pedigree that is of seriously high quality in every area, and it was a real treat to be almost nine months; today it takes just aboard. Our mission: to cruise the Society Islands and 22 hours of flight from Europe sample their delights, both above and beneath the

<#l#> DESTINATIONS TAHITI DESTINATIONS TAHITI <#r#> Prinsloo, we took the tender ashore to Point Venus, now the site of a lighthouse, where we were disappointed to find that while the landing of French ABOVE The author missionaries was remembered with a plaque and takes the helm of Carl memorial, the early British presence of Willis, Cook Linné , whose steering is and Captain Edwards of HMS Pandora had no such light and positive BOTTOM LEFT There mention. Only victors erect monuments and, it are an abundance of seemed, the French have no interest in British visitors. high quality resort The remainder of the sail was mostly downwind hotels in French and thoroughly relaxing, passing to the south of Polynesia, which can be used to ameliorate the Moorea and her panorama of jagged peaks, while effects of jet lag before giving this heart-shaped island’s skirting reef a wide starting a cruise berth, especially its northern side, where huge surf BOTTOM RIGHT rolls in over the coral. Dusk was falling as we Brightly coloured pareos hang in motored through the Tareu passe and on into Papeete’s market Opunohu Bay, less well known than its easterly twin, Cook’s Bay, but far less developed. Perhaps it was the jet lag but, strangely, one does not really appreciate the impossibly scenic beauty of these northern anchorages until afloat, and this time we really took in the palm-fringed shoreline and the dramatic peaks that towered above us in the warm evening light. That evening, we collected Rodolphe from the shore and sat on deck under the brightest panoply of stars, discussing the next day’s plans. Of all the Society Islands, Moorea offers the best diving, and he wanted to show us a couple of nearby sites. We therefore planned to stay on the island until dusk and then sail overnight to the island of Huahine,

some 90 or so nautical miles north-westwards. It metre-wide backs trailing a stiff rod of a tail and ABOVE A rain cloud was going to be a busy day. their frog-like eyes assessing us with some interest. rolls in over Bora Bora lagoon, which provides Next morning, after a full breakfast served in the ‘You won’t need your snorkels here,’ said Rodolphe, a safe anchorage in all cockpit by our delightfully irrepressible Swiss who, after hearing a sigh of relief, went on to add: weathers stewardess Gabi Amacker, we were soon in the ‘The water is shallow enough for you to stand.’ The tender on our way to be introduced to the local first reactions were: ‘Swim with those – wasn’t sealife. At the seaward end of the bay we turned someone killed by one in ?’, but redressing west inside the reef and ran parallel with the shore phobias is one of Rodolphe’s specialities, and we in calm, shallowing water that immediately took on were soon reassured that unless stingrays fear attack, a breathtakingly intense turquoise hue. A mile or so they are completely safe. They were more than that on, Rodolphe cut the engine and deployed the – they turned out to be very friendly, with often anchor in a sandy 1.5-metre shallow. And then we four or five clustering around us in the water, saw them. Within a minute we had 15 or so overlapping like biscuits on a plate, fearless and stingrays circling below us, their diamond-shaped, delighting in our touch on their velvet-soft skin.

<#l#> DESTINATIONS TAHITI DESTINATIONS TAHITI <#r#> Apart from the fishy snacks that made the rays recorded shark attacks – between five and 15 each so happy, the coolbox also contained a picnic lunch year, according to National Geographic magazine for us, and we sped on across the turquoise shallows – but, to put that number in perspective, 15 times to Maiau, one of two idyllic Motu islands within the more fatalities are caused by coconuts dropping protective reef. Just inshore from a small private from trees. Sharks immediately release their victims, beach, a bar and tables were shaded by an idyllic which shows that they dislike the taste, and this ABOVE Suites at the grove of flowering shrubs. Welcomed by Maire supports the view of most marine biologists that deluxe Hilton Moorea Maiau, the island’s hospitable owner, we were attacks are usually caused by mistaken identity. A Lagoon Resort are set presented with a freshly cooked coconut crab, a surfer in a black wet suit, for instance, can be on piles directly above the water and each has land-living crab with powerful claws that can break mistaken for a seal – a favoured prey for a shark.’ its own bathing into a coconut for the flesh that is its staple diet. The number of sharks killed by man, on the other platform The beast was huge, about 40 centimetres long, and hand, is incredibly high. National Geographic BOTTOM LEFT Local its claws were full of the most delicious meat. estimates that it is between 20 and 100 million a guides, Rodolphe and Christelle Holler prepare After lunch, we had arranged to meet Carl Linné year, which readily explains why the world’s shark to depart on a dive with near the Tareu passe, and here we swapped snorkels population is declining. bosun, Steve Marttin for scuba gear and took aboard Steve Martin, the Rodolphe was adamant that he could and guests mate, who would dive with us on a site to the east demonstrate that sharks are not interested in BOTTOM RIGHT Black tip sharks are commonly of the Avaroa passe just north of Cook’s Bay. ‘We’ll hunting humans – and we accepted his invitation. seen on French see plenty of sharks here,’ said Rodolphe in his dive ‘Normally I would not feed fish but I will today, just Polynesia’s reefs briefing. ‘It is commonly believed that sharks are as a demonstration,’ he said. The briefing was simple: man killers but in my opinion they pose little we would descend to the bottom – about 25 metres danger to man. Certainly there are plenty of – and he would open a bag of bait fish. Eventually the excitement of smaller fish would attract the sharks and he would then produce something that There are plentry of recorded shark attacks – between five and 15 each year, they really like – a tuna head. It went to plan. The according to National Geographic magazine – but, to put that number in water was crystal clear and we were soon watching a huge shoal of brightly coloured angel fish – Moorish perspective, 15 times more fatalities are caused by coconuts dropping from trees idols, emperors, parrot fish, groupers, rainbow TOP A lemon shark runners and trumpet fish among them – swirling checks out the divers LEFT Christelle Holler around Rodolphe as we sat a couple of metres back films a lemon shark in the front row of the ‘theatre’. Then the sharks circling a shoal of appeared. First, small blacktips, then four or five of parrot fish the more ominous, three-metre-long lemon sharks. ABOVE Brilliant tropical fish are seen They circled the pack, slowly closing in on the tuna on every dive in this head, which Rodolphe had released. It happened in extremely rich habitat a blink. The largest lemon shark exploded through shore from the little village of Pao Pao before dinner the rainbow of smaller fish, took the head in one was followed by our night sail. Although the wind bite and was gone. ‘Were you frightened?’ was the was light as we went through the passe, we could immediate question on the surface – but we had see a few distant rainstorms and a very uneven been so well briefed and the experience was so horizon, so we prudently put in a reef as the fascinating that we had not actually thought about mainsail was hoisted. It was a good move. As we fear. We all agreed that it was the most amazing dive cleared the land the wind rose steadily to around we had ever done, and Rodolphe had certainly 18 knots and at the same time veered a few degrees convinced us not to regard sharks with fear. Diving to make our course to Huahine a dead run. With will never be the same again. Carl Linné making 10 knots in increasing seas, we Carl Linné was snugly anchored in Cook’s Bay sailed high of the rhumb line and gybed at dawn to when we returned, and, showered and changed, we run north up the western shore of Huahine, a just had time to take a walk along the inlet’s eastern blue-grey outline capped by a pink cloud.

<#l#> DESTINATIONS TAHITI DESTINATIONS TAHITI <#r#> dinner on the nearby beach. We instantly accepted canoe took us directly to a table set beneath a and, following a tour of this impressive 20-cabin, sunshade in the shimmering white shallows of the 40-guest ship, were treated to an excellent meal, lagoon. A cool fruit cocktail or coconut water fresh With the moonlight augmented by candles and the from the nut got the ball rolling as we indulged in tables elegantly set out with linen and china to the the local version of a coconut shy (instead of best superyacht standards, we dined against the wooden balls being thrown at a coconut, sharp background of a traditional heiva (a gathering fishing spears are lobbed at one set high on a pole

celebrating Tahitian music and dance) that was in the water) while the mouthwatering background ABOVE The delicate projected on to a screen hung between two aroma of barbecue kept anticipation high. The task of seeding black pearls in Huahine Pearl coconut palms. It was a memorable evening. setting was unsurpassable, our hosts delightful, the Farm The next day was equally unforgettable. After a meal delicious and the fun factor enormous BELOW AND BOTTOM morning dive in the lagoon to check the lie of the – everyone should experience this at least once. LEFT The barbecue, set anchor chain (which revealed that it had become The islands of Raiatea and Tahaa, at the half-way in the waters of the lagoon, was as snagged around a coral head), we were picked up by point of our onward sail to Bora Bora, share an entertaining as it was Marc Garnier in his outboard-powered outrigger encircling reef, and we had planned to thread the delicious canoe and whisked off on another excursion. Two needle between the two islands. But our departure BOTTOM RIGHT The islands form Huahine – Huahine Nui and Huahine was delayed and by the time we had sailed the 25 crew and guests take a lesson in the local Iti (nui means large and iti small) – and we took the miles from Huahine to Raiatea the sun was already cuisine narrow passage that divides them, passing setting. A passage through a lagoon strewn with eastwards through Maroe Bay and then turning uncharted coral heads requires good light and, sadly, north into the lagoon behind Motu Vavaratea. there was no choice but to go north around Tahaa Much of this area is devoted to a local product, and save these charming islands for another day. Having dropped our sails just outside Passe black pearls, and we headed for a house on stilts in It is just 10 miles from Tahaa to Bora Bora, but Avapehi on the island’s north-west corner, we were the centre of the lagoon where the process of Teavanui, the only navigable passe through its reef, given a perfect welcome by a school of spinner culturing these little beauties was explained. The lies on the western side, more than doubling the dolphins leaping clear of the water, demonstrating next stop was the treat of the day – an unbelievably distance. By now the sun had gone, leaving only the their signature gymnastic manoeuvre that would be picturesque picnic lunch on Motu Vavaratea. faintest outline of Bora Bora’s famous Mount the envy of any Olympic diver – sometimes with Greeted by the sound of ukulele and guitar, our Otemanu against the darkening sky as we raced up to seven aerial turns. Beyond the passe lies Haavai Bay, and after dropping anchor we enjoyed a leisurely brunch in the cockpit surrounded by high TOP Local guide, Marc peaks, with the perfect silence broken only by the Garnier pilots his sound of crowing cockerels. After the meal, pirogue past a pearl farm in the lagoon Rodolphe treated us to an exciting drift dive. We between Huahine Nui entered the water just outside the passe and and Motu Vavaratea worked our way in past a huge shoal of barracuda ABOVE Black pearls and several whitetip and grey reef sharks cruising are much favoured by local Polynesians and the entrance to the lagoon. One is seldom tourists alike disappointed when under water in Polynesia. RIGHT Carl Linné That afternoon we motored south inside the powers through Bora reef, headed for an overnight anchorage by Port Bora’s lagoon Bourayne, which we shared with two other vessels, Ebis ma ptiur? Quia nia sa quo maxima the 40-metre motor yacht Solaia and the Tahitian- con restibus suntiumquae ea que dus owned mini-cruise ship Tia Moana. We had just quae porepe et laut harum as Quia nia settled in when a tender came across from the latter and, with typical Tahitian hospitality, passed sa quo maxima con restibus on a message inviting us to drinks followed by suntiumquae ea que dus restibus

<#l#> DESTINATIONS TAHITI DESTINATIONS TAHITI <#r#> RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Moorea lagoon; Carl Linné’s tender circles the yacht in Bora Bora; Moorea’s dominant Mount Tahiea has an unforgettable outline; In the Society Islands all children are at home on the water; A turtle mosaic decorates a shopfront pavement; Shells can be surprisingly musical BOTTOM LEFT Carl Linné’s cockpit table is set for dinner BELOW Oyster shells used to clad a wall BOTTOM Carl Linné runs towards the sunset through the night in 20 knots of breeze with up to many tourists, so after a brief tour we returned to 12 knots on the clock. The passage went quickly, Carl Linné, where Jinny had prepared a splendid and all too soon we found ourselves lining up the farewell lunch. All too soon the dinghy was zipping leading lights that guided us through the passe, and us across the lagoon to the airport, where the dropped anchor in Povai Bay just after 11pm. check-in desk sits just within the thatched terminal, The next day was our last aboard, as we were a stone’s throw from the dock. After a week of

flying back to Papeete that afternoon to catch the excitement, adventure and amazing hospitality we E FIL CT FA late-night Air Tahiti Nui flight departing for Paris said a sad farewell to Captain Greg and his highly POLITICAL: Tahiti and the Windward Islands of These can be arranged through the Papeete Port Contact Jenny Burgess at [email protected] or just before midnight. With a flight so close, scuba professional crew. With such a crew – cheerful, the Society Group of French Polynesian islands are a Authority, which is now increasingly involved in approach your usual charter broker. diving was not an option, so after a lazy breakfast smiling and ready to meet any request – any charter French Territoire d’Outre Mer with its own elected supporting yachting activities. Contact: Email: DIVING: Tahiti Private Expeditions offers a highly we snorkelled on a coral garden to the south of aboard Carl Linné is guaranteed to delight. assembly and president. [email protected] Tel:+689 50 54 51. recommended VIP customised dive, snorkelling

Toopua Motu. Rewarded by the sight of an eagle ray We had been told that Papeete’s huge covered GETTING THERE: Two airlines serve the international Website: www.portdepapeete.pf and eco-tours service to superyachts, and is also TAHITI and a huge solitary barracuda, we then motored a market and its surrounding shops offered the best airport in Tahiti: Air Tahiti Nui, the national carrier, and YACHT REPAIR: A 3,800-tonne dry dock with able to create a personalised film of guests’ diving couple of miles north to visit the island’s capital souvenir shopping, so after what must be one of Air France. See www.airtahitinui.com and 17-metre beam and 140-metre length is available in experience. The whale-spotting season, when the village of Vaitape. Although exuding Polynesian the world’s most scenic flights during which we www.airfrance.com for details. Papeete in addition to an 800-tonne slipway and sight of whales and their calves is guaranteed, is charm, its focus is squarely directed at the island’s were treated to Technicolor vistas of Tahaa, Raiatea YACHT MARINAS: Marina Taina offers modern 75-tonne Travelift. Plans are in place for a 300-tonne between mid-July and mid-September, while high and Moorea, we headed to downtown Tahiti. The facilities and stern-to berthing for yachts of up to Travelift, which should be available in 2012. season is September and October. Contact: market lives up to its reputation – particularly if 60 metres with draughts of up to 15metres. The YACHT AGENTS: The 15-year-old company Tahiti Tel: +689 711 776 or +689 766 272. one’s shopping list contains gaily patterned cotton marina is close to Tahiti International Airport and Ocean, which has its main office in Marina Taina, Email: [email protected] pareo wraps, woven baskets or a huge variety of Papeete city amenities, as well as to the enormous is the main yacht agent for the region and offers a Website: www. tahiti-private-expeditions.com attractive jewellery crafted from black pearls, shells Carrefour hypermarket. Services include electricity complete range of services for visiting yachts, FURTHER INFORMATION: For visa, weather and and coconuts. (220V/380V, three-phase 60Hz, 60 to 120A supply), including clearances and crew visa requirements. tourist information visit www.tahiti-tourisme.pf or Later, as we boarded our flight, one thing was fresh water, mail handling facilities, office Contact: [email protected] or visit www.tahiti-ocean.com contact Tahiti Tourisme: Tel: +689 50 57 00, clear in our minds. We would be returning to these communication, onboard telephones, cable Pacific Avenues is a branch of Tahiti Ocean that Email: [email protected]. friendly isles that have so much to offer: incredible television, and more. A marine gas station is also organises flights and customised activities for guests GENERAL YACHT INFORMATION: The main scenery, friendly locals, warm seas, good winds, located on the premises. Contact: E-mail: and crew. Contact Carine Herman on +689 77 90 41 port of entry is Papeete but yachts may also clear in fantastic diving in crystal-clear waters and sheltered [email protected] Tel:+689 41 02 25. or Email: pacifi[email protected] Moorea, Raiatea, Huahine and Bora Bora. Those anchorages. Such things are worth a flight around ISPS-approved berths for up to 25 larger yachts of CHARTER: Carl Linné accommodates six guests intending to visit Tahiti by yacht will find the Noonsite the world. 35 metres and 40 metres and eight of over 80 metres in three luxurious cabins and can be chartered website useful: are available on the quayside in the centre of Papeete. through Camper & Nicholsons International. www.noonsite.com/Countries/FrenchPolynesia/Tahiti

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