Editorial Welcome to ! Contents

A VISIT TO POLYNESIA IS GUARANTEED TO BE AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE.TRAVELING BY , page YOU WILL DISCOVER DRAMATIC ,TRANQUIL AND WELL-PROTECTED ANCHORAGES, JUST AS THE AREA’S FIRST LEGENDARY NAVIGATORS DID MANY GENERATIONS AGO. The Port Autonome de 2 conditions But you will soon come to understand that a visit Introduction & climate 5 toTahiti and her is more than just ‘sailing Map of 6 through a picture postcard’.As you will discover, Beaconing for each 8 the uniqueTahitian style of living reveres cultural PGEM & other information 9 traditions that date back centuries. Administrative procedures Polynesian waters may prove to be your most Customs formalities 11 exceptional sailing experience ever! As you visit a Sanitary & immigration formalities 13 variety of beautiful, unspoiled locations Agents 15 throughout the islands, you will often experience From archipelago to archipelago that rare feeling of serenity.Ashore, local residents Introduction 17 will welcome you, and well-equipped facilities will 18 meet your needs. Tuamotu 19 Leeward Islands 20 From paradise to reality surface.Although the Port Autonome de Papeete Map of Quai desYachts 22 Even in Paradise, however,there are rules to is concerned primarily withTahiti and Moorea, this in Papeete and theTaina Marina follow! Crew and passengers must comply with all guide will introduce you to the whole of Polynesia. and Moorea 24 customs and immigration formalities.Yachtsmen In it, you will find practical advice and technical Directory of marine suppliers 26 must also consider the practical questions information that should be helpful. Nautical life involved in a visit to French Polynesia, such as: 29 How is the port structured? Where can drinking Competitive infrastructures The Polynesian heaven 30 water be obtained? Where can we find phone You will also discover how the PortAutonome de Events & Bibliography 31 numbers to dial in case of an emergency? Where Papeete has continued to improve not only the can we find chandleries? quality of its facilities, but also the number of The Tahiti Moorea Sailing Rendezvous 2008 poster services provided to port users.This dynamic and was insert between pages 16 and 17. Meeting your needs modern evolution has kept pace with French A tear-off questionnaire was put into page 32 on This guide has been prepared by the Port Polynesia’s rapid economic development. The Port some copies. Autonome de Papeete, whose objective is to Autonome de Papeete has also taken strong and answer all the questions you may have.The guide symbolic actions towards yachtsmen. For example, An information CD-Rom was was made especially for yachtsmen, in order to the Port Authority initiated the Tahiti-Moorea also created: it contains various welcome them and make their stay in French Sailing Rendezvous, a special event designed files from the institutions, Polynesia easier.Hopefully,it will help you in specifically to welcome visiting yachtsmen to our partners and advertisers, and a dealing with bureaucratic ‘red tape,’and will islands and introduce them to Polynesian cultural numeric version of the facilitate a problem-free arrival so that you can traditions.With this introduction, we invite you to Yachtmen’s Guide 2008. enjoy the natural riches of this vast territory, read through these pages, and we wish you which extends over 5 million km² of the ocean’s pleasant cruising in French Polynesian waters.

The director of the Port Autonome de Papeete, TeriiVALLAUX Informations desk Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 1

Created in 1996 by the Port Autonome de Papeete. Content images courtesy of: Port Autonome de Editor: Laurent Barra / Port Autonome de Papeete. Papeete, Gie Tahiti Tourism, Service de la Pêche,Archipels Editorial concept and graphic creation: Archipelagoes. Croisières, C. Durocher, L. Laplane,A.Turpin. English translation: A.Turpin, C. Ibañez,A. Rocca, Graphic creation of Tahiti Moorea Sailing Rendezvous E. Caradec, F. Dupré and E. Boutin. poster: Greg LeBacon & Archipelagoes 2008 Printed by: Seripol.Tahiti. February 2008. Special thanks to: AndyTurpin, Etienne Boutin, issue Advertising: [email protected] Laurent Bernaert, Sylvie Julien-Para, Dominique Contact: [email protected] Morvan, Department of Tourism, Gie Tahiti Tourism. The Port Autonome de Papeete An international cruise port Because of its downtown location, the PapeeteYachts Quay (Quai desYachts de Papeete) gives yachtsmen easy and direct INTERNATIONAL TRADE,TRAFFIC BETWEEN ISLANDS, FISHING, access to all corner stores and services of CRUISE TOURISM,YACHTING…: Tahiti commercial center in the town. PAPEETE PORT IS AT THE HEART OF POLYNESIAN LIFE AND NAUTICAL TOURISM. FromVaiete place, with its typical caravans – they are impossible to miss –, to the other It is now the symbol of a shared places where you can experience the access and cooperation of cruise in the capital city of and privateYachts with fishing vessels, Polynesia… coasters and freighters. You will never be bored inTahiti! Since year 2000, Papeete Port invested more Moreover, the Papeete port had greatly than 12 billion XPF – 100.5 million € – in improved its infrastructures recently to building new infrastructures with the aim of welcome more yachtsmen in comfort on a improving not only the international and special dock equiped with security gates and inter- trade development’s conditions, patrolled by security guards 24/7 during the but also the welcoming of cruise ships, high season. visiting yachting and fishing vessels.These large-scale improvement were financed in part This privileged access offers them the with the annual cash flow generated by the opportunity to be berthed in the Port Autonome de Papeete. Its modern heart of the city and enjoy its many settlements are in constant evolution and attractions without security concerns. contribute to the economic rapid development of French Polynesia.

The only commercial international port A lively and central port of call. Specially designed infrastructures providing service all over Polynesia. Who saysTahiti was a marginal destination on for yachtsmen Thousand of tons of products are in transit the world cruise market? The Port Autonome de Papeete has been every year on the different quays of Papeete. Today, the Port of Papeete is a thriving involved in a variety of efforts to benefit The container traffic represents a impressive international cruise port, big enough to yachtsmen throughout the . quantity of more than 69,000 EVP (20 feet welcome four cruise ships at the same time. The Ports efforts extend to part of Papeete containers) in import and export. Merchant Papeete port reflects an image of luxury for Harbour, to Teonetea in Papearii and to Taina ships – cargo ships,“Ro-Ro” (roll-on, roll-off) – Polynesia. BothTahitians and visitors have Marina in . On Moorea,Tahiti’s sister- have three dedicated berths along a 453 m already seen many of these prestigious island, the Port Autonome de Papeete is also in long quay. Products are stored in a container “superboats” parading before their eyes, from charge of the Vaiare Bay, including the Marina terminal with a carrying capacity greater than the to the Tahitian Princess and and the Ferry Quay were ferries and fast 90,000 m². Cargo vessels which operate the Starflyer, through the Amsterdam, the Seven shuttles offer frequent transportation to both between the capital city, Papeete, and outlying Seas Mariner, the Regal Princess, the Queen foot passengers and light vehicles. Polynesian islands have six berths at their Elizabeth II, and soon the Queen Mary II. With maritime jurisdiction over an of disposal, with a total of 1,000 meters for Thanks to the construction of new finger pier more than 800,000 m2, the Port of Papeete ... Travelling through the islands, in the heart of Papeete, the Port of Papeete provides services to a wide variety of vessels, these vessels operate in an area equivalent can now host the finest cruise ships from including sailboats visiting from all over the to the size of ! anywhere in the world. world.

2 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia That’s all we needed! Activities

International trading The number of stopovers for long haul slightly increased in 2007.The total tonnage of international products increased by +5,7% with How is the Port structured? • and construction of a “House of yachting” 1,071,913 tons in 2007. • With its 5 docks, theYacht quay of Papeete in 2008/2009. (> page 22) is able to accommodate up to Feasibility studies will begin in 2008 on newly Inter-island trading 80sailing boats.The port maintains a security planned infrastructure for yachtsmen in The total traffic of inter-island products (boundary service which guards the quay 24 hours a day, Teonetea pike, in Papeari and also on further included) is decreasing by -3.0% and reach 7 days a week during the high season, from development of the marina ofVaiare in Moorea. 803,641 tons.The passenger traffic between April to September.Every berth on the Papeete decreased by -0.6% with 1,694,288 yachtsmen's quay is equipped with modern Continuous improvement passengers in 2007. facilities including water and electricity. of yachting activities Garbage collection is performed periodically. The Port Autonome de Papeete has become International cruising • The Taina Marina located in Punaauia increasingly more involved in supporting The number of cruise ships stopovers in the Port (> page 23) is able to accommodate about 500 yachting activities in French Polynesia. Its role of Papeete increased significantly (+33% with sailing boats or motoryachts in individual berths of welcoming visitors has made the Port the 36 stopovers), with an associated increase in the or“Med-moored”along a quay.One quay is initiator and partner of many different number of passengers (+152,6% with 37,121 intended for superyachts.Marina facilities promotional activities: cruisers). Inter-island cruising based in Papeete include a fuel dock,a laundry,a harbourmaster's • The Tahiti Moorea Sailing Rendezvous showed a slight increase in the number of office,restrooms,three restaurants,a technical (> page 31), the 27th and 28th of June, 2008 is a stopovers (+4,2%): it reached 75 moorings in workshop, a chandlery,a IaOraNet wireless special event for yachtsmen organised by the 2007. Internet service and many convenient stores Port of Papeete. During two days of activities, Currently, inter-island cruising is available aboard near at hand. sailors will have an ideal opportunity to meet the liners Paul Gauguin,Tahitian Princess and since • The marina of Vaiare in Moorea (> page 24), the local population and learn about their the end of 2007, aboard the sailing cruise ship is able to accommodate 120 sailing boats or age-old customs. It features a sailing rally from Flyer.The cargo ship Aranui III is also very motoryachts. It is mainly inhabited by the Tahiti to Moorea, combined with cultural popular and enjoyable means of cruising between permanent residents, and can accommodate festivities on Moorea’sTemae beach. Papeete and the Marquesas Islands. 5 to 10 boats passing through Moorea.The • Since 2006, the Port of Papeete supports the marina provides security service 24/7. On Tahiti Pearl Regatta (8th to 12th of May 2008) Yachting site services include water, restrooms and in the Leeward Islands between , The number of foreign motoryachts’ stopovers showers, electricity and garbage collection. Tahaa and (> page 31). decreased by -1.8% in theYachtquays of Papeete Many shops are located nearby. • It also participates in other welcoming with 556 stopovers in 2007 (566 in 2006). ceremonies for trans-Pacific rallies such as the What projects are currently in progress? Puddle Jump,Arc 2008, BlueWater, etc. Fishing • Upgrading of security gates on the Papeete • It is the co-organizer or partner of different Revival in the activity of foreign fishing boats in quay docks; tours and promotional operations in the main 2007 (+65%) with 137 stopovers.The activity of • creation of a mooring area with about 60 nautical boat shows and directly promotes the Port related to local fishing decreased by -3% “water wings” on ecological moorings in the Polynesia as a sailing destination at yachts with 965 stopovers in 2007 (compared with 995 fairway of Punaauia; clubs and marinas all over the world. in 2006).

Some figures Need more info? Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 3

- 758.43 ha: the total surface of land and maritime >> http://www.portdepapeete.pf boundaries of the Port Autonome de Papeete. - 5,400 m: the total length of quays and docks. - 1,876,000 t: the weight of products that transit every PO Box 9164 year on the different quays of Papeete. Motu Uta - 200 m:The north berth’s length, where the cruising 98715 PapeeteTahiti liner Queen Elizabeth II berthed in 2007 and 2008. - XIX°:At the end of this century the first liners quay [email protected] was built in Port of Papeete.

Sailing conditions Take the tiller with serenity

AS THE OFFICIAL EMBLEM OF POLYNESIA SUGGESTS,THE OCEAN IS THE ESSENTIAL ELEMENT AT THE ORIGIN OF POLYNESIAN LIFE AND CULTURE.

Apart from transiting the passes in and out of differences exist.The temperatures in Austral The tidal range the lagoons, and being mindful of depths in the islands can go down to 10°C during the dry Apart from the Society islands, in the shallows, there are no major navigational season;in the Marquesas islands,the “Austral Polynesian archipelagoes ,there is a lunar tidal challenges in French Polynesian water.The Winter” lasts from August to December;there is range of between 0.5 and 2m.The tidal range ’s flag is composed of a double-hulled no“rainy season”in theTuamotu islands. creates an incoming and outgoing current that , which symbolizes the history of the great washes through the passes of the . Polynesian navigators,and five characters standing The wind It can reach speeds of 6 knots or higher when which represent the five archipelagoes:the Society, In Polynesia, the dominant winds blow more there are big tidal ranges or when it combines Tuamotu, Austral, Marquesas and islands). frequently from the east, but they tend toward with a heavy swell.Thus it creates a tidal bore at Located in the heart of the South Pacific, turning the northeast or the east from November to the pass entries. It is recommended to seaward, these 118 islands and atolls are spread March with speeds of 5 to 15knots.The trade through the passes when the water is slack. out over 5 million km2 of ocean surface and winds generally blow from the east during the cover only 4,200 km2 of land surface. cooler and dryer time of year (April through The Society islands, and this is one of the major October), with a tendency to blow from distinctions of French Polynesia, are situated on The climate southeast during this period. In July and August, what is called an amphidromic point, where Defined as marine tropical,French Polynesia’s the southeast trade winds, which theTahitian call tides are only influenced by the solar ocean climate doesn’t vary much:temperatures range the mara’amu are sometimes steady and strong tide (water level difference is 20 cm, or between 24°C and 30°C all year long and its with speeds of 5 to 25knots Famous in French 8 inches, with high tides at noon and midnight, high humidity (75%) is tempered by breezes.Thus Polynesia, the mara’amu can blow for several every day of the year). Polynesia is affected by northeast and southeast days, forming rolling swells between 1.5 and 3 m. trade winds which converge in to the equatorial This wind brings also colder temperatures (20°C The Rescue Center of Human Life at Sea zone creating two distinguished seasons:the dry at night). They are affected by the contours tall (MRCC Papeete): season and the humid season.The dry season – islands,and venturi effects may occur in the bays. ph.: 46 53 16 • Inmarsat C 582 422 799 192 also called “Austral winter” – takes place between The coastal station of Mahina Radio provides a April and October and brings an expected The swell security early warning on frequencies: coolness (24°C and 28°C),July and August being A long south, southeast swell, generally weak, - BLU: 2182 KHz and 8279 KHz the coolest months of the year.The humid can easily reach 2.5 to 3 m when tropical -VHF: 156,8 MHz, canal 16 season – also called “Rainy season” – starts in depressions blow over the south of the Emergency numbers November and ends in March.It brings higher archipelagoes.When this swell meets the sea of Fire station: 18 Police: 17 humidity as well as heavier and more frequent wind from the east, the sea becomes agitated Smur (Tahiti): 15 Harbour control: 42 12 12 rains than during the dry season.Because of the and difficult to navigate. From November to List of useful phone numbers for each archipelago distance between them,some significant January,there is a weak north swell. pages 17 to 27. .

Daily informations Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 5 in French only RFO transmits weather reports on Frequency Modulation at 89 and 91,8 MHz, Météo : on AM at 738 MHz, at 5:55 / 6:57 / 7:57 / 10:30 a.m. and 5:55 p.m. tel.: 36 65 08 (weather reports on answering machine) / 36 70 08 (forecaster on live) in English only www.meteo.pf Frequent and complete weather reports in English: Mahina Radio: weather reports (BMS) channelVHF 68 Moorings ISLV, at 8: 00 a.m. • byVHF, after a call on Channel 16, move on channel 26 (Winward islands/South on demand,VHF 10 Sunsail ISLV, between 7:30 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. Marquesas) or 27 (Leeward islands/North Marquesas) at 8:03 / 8:33 / 11:00 / 12:00 a.m. and 6:03 / 6:33 / 8:40 / 9:00 p.m.; On the web • By BLU on 8803 KHz at 8:45 / 11:00 / 12:00 a.m. and 2:30 / 4:30 / 8:00 p.m.; and www.windguru.com free Wifi access on the Iaoranet wireless network on 2182 KHz and then 2620 KHz at 8:03 / 8:33 a.m. and 6:03 / 6:33 / 9:00 p.m. www.buoyweather.com www.meteo.pf Memo Clearance

Entry clearance formalities have to be formally The Official clearance formalities of arrival Inter islands clearance formalities between completed at the “Gendarmerie” offices in the first port have to be completed in the Port Autonome de Papeete: Tahiti and the other islands (except Moorea): of arrival (> p. 11): • Provide the list* of all passengers and crew • Provide the list* of all passengers and crew • Provide the list* of all passengers and crew • Passengers and crew’s departure or arrival by aircraft, • Scheduled itinerary in French Polynesia • Passengers and crew’s departure or arrival by aircraft, with details about the flights with details about the flights • Copy of the ’s registration number. Exit clearance formalities at your departure from • Detailed list of regulated or forbidden products** • Clean bill of health of sailboat captain when boats French Polynesia, mandatory to get tax free diesel oil: • All passports with required valid visas are more than 40 meters long • Provide the list* of all passengers and crew • Detailed list of regulated or forbidden products** • Passengers and crew’s departure or arrival by aircraft • All passports with required valid visas (with details about the flights) * providing details about the names, profession, date and • Detailed list of regulated or forbidden products birthplace, nationality, passport number. • All passports with required valid visas ** guns, alcohols, animals, seeds...

Sailing conditions Adapt your navigation between one archipelago and another

EVEN WHEN NAVIGATION IS RELATIVELY EASY,YOU MUST BE CAREFUL AND WATCHFUL. BETWEEN ONE ARCHIPELAGO AND THE NEXT, ALWAYS KEEP A LOOKOUT, ESPECIALLY IF YOU WANT TO AVOID AN UNPLEASANT ACCIDENT. The Marquesas Islands The Tuamotu The Society islands Level of navigation: easy. Level of navigation: caution. Level of navigation: easy.

Situated at the outer limit of equatorial Be careful when you are navigating between This is the perfect place for yachting.There is waters, between latitudes 8° and 10° south, the atolls which are visible at less than no lunar tide, most large are passes and the Marquesas Islands don’t suffer from 10 MN only: the current can be strong in the navigation is easy at any time (excepted at tropical depressions, and cyclones are channels between the atolls. ). A lateral buoyage system is used in unknown there. The weather is nice most of On the 76Tuamotu atolls, only some of them the passes and at fixed points. Moreover the the time, and the rainy season is not very have passes where you can enter. On the fringing coral reefs allow a safe navigation intense. Winds are usually steady, but they others, when southeast wind gusts blow or because they protect you from the swell in may be impacted by the steep contours of when there is a heavy swell, there can be up the lagoons. these mountainous islands. The swell may be to 6 knots of outgoing current. In addition, a The buoyage system is important in the heavy, because the Marquesas are not tidal bore can be generated outside and inside lagoons: you will see green buoys at protected by coral reefs. In every group of the passes. side and red buoys at the land side. islands, navigators usually sail during the day. Generally speaking, it will be better to sail into In addition, you have to be careful when the The navigation is quite easy, the coastlines are the pass when the water is slack.You will see sea is choppy in the channel between two clear cut and step-to, sea currents generally lateral beacons in the mainTuamotu islands’ islands and beware of the shallows. flow to the W-N-W (less than 1 knot) yet are passes and sometimes even in the channels reinforced in the narrow passage (Bordelais providing access to a village. In every group of islands, yachtsmen usually channel /). sail during the day between the islands across But most of the time, in the lagoons, you will very short distances. It is recommended to The islands are high and the leeward coasts navigate carefully, and with the sun behind leave before 9:00 a.m, in order to avoid bad suffer often from light winds.The Marquesas you or during the midday sun. You will have a visibility in the passes and choose your Islands have numerous bays which provide better visibility of colors and coralheads, so moorings at the end of the day. good shelter from the winds but are often you can pick out the poito, pearl farms’ buoys. open to the dominant swells (Beach landings Special sailing instructions: can sometimes be a challenge!). Shallows are In July and August, when strong east and between PAPEETE and PUNAAUIA (TAHITI): silty and secure. southeast wind gusts blow inside some of the Every time you move your boat (entering in The Marquesans live close to the sea. big atolls, the wind raises an interior swell. It is the Port, leaving it or just changing your infrastructure, such as quays and docks, are recommended to moor at the east.As fresh anchorage), you must ask permission from available in every inhabited island. Aids to water is very rare, we advise you to stock up the Harbour control station onVHF 12 navigation are rare: there are only port entry on water in the Marquesas Islands before or at the following number: 50 54 50, beacons into the bays where the access to leaving and also to collect rainwater if the because of the proximity with the the main villages is easy. boat is not equipped with a watermaker. international Airport’s runway.

8 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia That’s all we needed! Sailing conditions Respect and preserve

THE UNSPOILED NATURAL BEAUTY HERE IS UNIQUE BUT THE BALANCE OF NATURE IS FRAGILE.IT IS NECESSARY TO PROTECT IT.

An important regulation It is a question of good sense, of respecting Know your rights and duties In French Polynesia, there is an environmental our environment, from a sustainable The seaside and lagoons are for everybody. regulation to protect the lagoons: the Marine development perspective: The maritime public domain is free to use but Space Management Plan (PGEM). Moorea was • Be watchful when you navigate on the on certain motu (small islands), some signs the first local authority which approved this lagoon and limit your speed. TABU will tell you not to moor (Tabu conservation measure in October 2004. • 5 knots must not be exceeded near the meaning forbidden). It means you are on private ,, ,, , coast (70 meters) and in protected marine property and you are not welcome. and followed the example of Moorea, and areas, and 20 knots everywhere else. other local authorities are working on their • Be respectful towards the people and the own plans:Tahaa, Faa’a, andTakume… natural environment. For each PGEM, ask at the Town Hall of the These PGEMs were defined in cooperation • Moor on sandy bottoms and not on coral local authority corresponding to the place with the local populations (fishermen, lagoon bottoms. your boat according to you are interested in (> pages 18 à 25). tour operators, yachtsmen, hotels) to regulation, in the areas well marked with Game Fisheries Department tel.: 50.25.50 determine operating rules to be followed in all the yellow PGEM buoys to windward. [email protected] www.peche.pf islands you will sail to. • If you dive or snorkel, you can admire the and also: In Moorea, the PGEM manages the water from fauna and flora but don’t touch it! www.ifrecor.pf the littoral to the outside reef down to 70 • If you fish, respect the rules about the www.urbanisme.gov.pf meters.The objective is to optimize the places and species you may fish or not. webup.univ-perp.fr/ephe/criobe.htm enjoyment of marine resources and manage • Ask for an authorisation from the www.temanaotemoana.org their use intelligently. department of culture and patrimony for www.proscience.pf Its application is everybody’s business! marine prospecting. moorea.berkeley.edu

Be watchful Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 9

Especially in Fakarava, pay attention to the mooring regulation: it will be a reference for Forbidden activities you when you will move to the other islands. No matter how long the transit may be, mooring in the channels of navigation that are BOAT MOORING REGULATION marked or mooring in the passes is strictly forbidden, except in case of an emergency. Mooring Mooring on the coral or at less than 200 m from the shore is strictly forbidden.Vessels There is no time limit if you are anchored on a sandy bottoms, are berthed in a marina which are not being used during fishing in the fish parks areas must stay outside of these or are on a mooring.The boat must be seaworthy, otherwise, it is considered as a parks in order not to disturb this activity. floating habitation (...). Obligations It is allowed to anchor in the mooring zones only.These zones are Vessels with marine toilets must be equipped with a non polluting system and must use indicated on the PGEM map of each by sign:“ZM”.This is the biodegradable detergents as from January the first, 2008. location of the anchor and not the boat’s location that shows where the Trash, even biodegradable, must not be thrown into the water. vessel is moored.

Customs formalities Do not overlook your obligations!

EVEN IF YOU HAVE FRENCH NATIONALITY,YOU WILL NEED TO FILL OUT FORMS. HERE ARE SOME GUIDELINES TO HELP YOU WITH FRENCH POLYNESIA’S ADMINISTRATIVE PROCEDURES...

The status for normal temporary documentary evidence that are necessary Supply of tax free diesel fuel admission. for the control of a boat grounded in As a yachtsman, you can be supplied with You are a tourist and you would like to stay for a Polynesian waters.These documents are tax-free diesel fuel for your boat, provided while in the Polynesian waters ?You can import returned to the boat’s owner when he that you comply with specific terms and your boat duty free for up to 12 months, returns. For example, if your boat is conditions.Two possible scenarios exist: entering only once or multiple times, within an uninhabited, with absolutely no one on • if you don’t name anyone to legally overall period of 24 months.Time when your board, it is possible to stop the one-year- represent you in completing the boat is hauled out in a is not counted. clock and make it start again only when you administrative procedures to obtain diesel return to Polynesia to continue your voyage! fuel in Papeete, you won’t be able to get For whom? • Your stay in Polynesia is nearing an end? tax-free diesel until you arrive at the Port of This legal framework targets the boats You must now fill and drop off a departure Papeete to get ad hoc authorization from registered under foreign flags, under the name declaration at the Maritime Office of the PAF. of an individual or corporate body with Immigration in Papeete or at the • If you appoint someone to legally represent normal residence outside of French Polynesia Gendarmerie offices in the first port of you, you can get your tax-free diesel fuel. and with no money-making activity within arrival, or send it by mail to the Customs But first you need to show the ad hoc the territory. Or, if the boat is not registered, Central Board no later than ten days before authorization that the Port of Papeete gives if it belongs to an individual or a corporate your departure. to your representative. body whose address is out of the customs Your duly mandated representative must territory. Spare parts and goods deliver to the PAF agents, located at theYachts Spare parts can be imported duty free as well bureau of Papeete, a master mandatory Clearance formalities as goods listed below. Firearms are document, delivered and signed by the • As soon as you arrive in French Polynesia, prohibited but transit is authorized after captain of the boat and the original customs you must come ashore and fill out your declaration. entry declaration, completed and signed by customs declaration and arrival declaration A document is provided by Gendarmerie the yachtsman. at the Maritime Office of Immigration (PAF) offices in first port of arrival to be returned to in Papeete or at the “Gendarmerie” offices in customs in Papeete by mail. To make these administrative procedures easier, your first port of arrival. Final clearance is obtained in Papeete. It is a Yacht agent can handle this paperwork for You also must send your arrival not possible to buy duty free goods before you: he can also help to deal with the tax free declaration to the Customs Central Board, departure, except fuel in Papeete. diesel fuel issue. or drop it off at the PAF. • On demand, your authorized stay of 12 Per person over 17 years of age: When you fill out your exit declaration, months may be suspended by the Customs - 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigares ou please fill out the tear-off Central Board in case of the boat owner or 250 grams of tabacco, questionnaire on page 32 in your user’s departure, with certified boat - 2 L of wine, 2 L of spirit, Yachtmen’s Guide. It will be very helpful to immobilization, or if the owner deposits at - personal effects. improve the welcoming conditions of future the Customs service all the documents and yachtsmen in French Polynesia.

The ports of entry Lights and flags Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 11

In the Marquesas Islands When you arrive in a port during daylight hours, you You are arriving in a French Territory, so it is (Taiohae), (Hakahau), Hiva Oa must exhibit the international yellow Q flag or the mandatory that you the French flag. () signal D.IF. The appreciate when sailors also exhibit In the At night, you must turn on the day signal or show a the Polynesian flag, and the Marquesans will be very (Mataura), (Moerai), (Rairua) red light upper than a white light.The maximum happy is you also exhibit the Marquesan flag! In the Tuamotu / Gambier distance between the lights is 1m83 (6 feet). (Tiputa), () In the Leeward Islands, Society archipelago Raiatea (), (Fare), Bora Bora () In the Windard Islands, Society archipelago Tahiti (Papeete), Moorea (Afareaitu) PAPEETE : Marina Arue Pointe Vénus Yacht Quay,Vaiete Place, Market of Papeete Surfspot of Papenoo House of Culture, The Pearl Museum The blower hole Les 3 waterfalls

Mooring of Bougainville Taina Marina

Lagoonarium

Museum of Tahiti and the islands Arahurahu

Faratea Marina

Cook’s Mooring Mataoa Garden

Surfspot of Gauguin’s Museum Botanical Garden

Phaeton’s Bay Welcom to Tahiti ! Discover every treasure that Tahiti hides ! Surfspot of Teahupoo

Rent a car in Paradise with the world #1 Ask our special rental rates with the CODE YST Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia  Free shuttle service during the day.

Ph. Office: (689) 42 04 71 • Ph. Airport : (689) 82 55 86 Fax: (689) 43 49 03 • [email protected] Phytosanitary Regulation A necessity to protect the ecosystem

THE INTRODUCTION OF IMPORTED SPECIES MAY HAVE NEGATIVE AND FATAL CONSEQUENCES.

Phytosanitary regulation Health animal regulation During a stopover, you may have collected Without your knowledge, your favorite pet plant seeds or fruit, thinking it could be a good can carry serious diseases and parasites that idea to plant them later. Now they are in your may infect human beings. It is even more likely bag and you are about to move to the next to happen if you have visited , port. or even the in TheTiare Apetahi, flower endemic to the island of the last 6 months. Raiatea, is endangered. Be careful ! The importation of plant For security reasons, removing your animals products, plants and seeds in French from your boat is forbidden.Your , your At the end of a six-month quarantine on Polynesia is regulated or forbidden, according cat and any other animal sailing with you must board, the animals that have been treated as to the deliberation 96-43 AT (February 29, be confined on board unless you obtain mentioned get permission to go ashore. 1996).According to the ministerial order permit to take the animal ashore from 741CM (July 12, 1996), the transport to the veterinarians of the Service for Rural Landing after a 30-days quarantine may also islands or between the islands of fruit, veggies, Development, according to the article n°15 of be possible. flowers or any other vegetables such as plants the deliberation 77-93 AT of the 10th of and seeds is strictly regulated. August, 1977. However you must provide to the competent authority a certificate of anti rabies No matter how fetching or harmless they How to get the landing authorization? vaccination with: might seem, the importation of non native The authorization after consideration of the • The animal identification number, proving he species may put in jeopardy the phytosanitary following documents, originals or certified true has been vaccinated for more than protection of our islands.This protection is of copies: 6 months and less than 1 year before the vital importance to protect the many endemic scheduled date of landing. species that exist in French Polynesia.This is • Official document proving the date of your • The test results for determining the rabies why the boats arriving from a country infested departure from the last country you visited neutralisation antibody; it should be checked with the Beetle (Center and South infected by rabies (all Central America, USA in a minimum of three months after America, Fidji, ,, …) are included, are infected). vaccination and more than three months inspected at their arrival and treated if • Official document proving the date of your before the scheduled date of landing, and at necessary,as specified in the deliberation 99- arrival in French Polynesia. a level more than 0.5 UI. 168 APF of the 30th of September,1999. • or micro-chip ISO11784 documents • Updated vaccination booklet To protect our islands against crops pests, you • A French Polynesian vet certificate that The animals who are taken ashore without must imperatively declare plant products and proves that the animal was treated against permission are in violation of the regulation. plants to the staff of the Service for Rural parasites with Praziquantel with a dose of According to the law, they will automatically Development (SDR) or throw them overboard 5mg/kg (effective against Echinococcus sp be seized, killed and destroyed at the before your arrival in Polynesian waters. more specifically), and against ticks. owner’s expenses.

INFORMATIONS Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 13 Immigration formalities Amounts admitted as repatriation Passports, visas, bonds, etc. bonds If you don’t have any return airline ticket to your resident country, that you could use as a IN FRENCH POLYNESIA, IMMIGRATION RULES ARE STRICT AND SPECIFIC. bond, you can go to the bank and pay the ALL VISITORS MUST CHECK CAREFULLY BEFORE LEAVING HOME TO BE SURE THAT THEY repatriation bond’s amount.This amount to be HAVE PROPER TRAVEL DOCUMENTATION AND THAT THEY MEET THE ENTRY REQUIREMENTS. paid, varies based on nationality:

TouristVisa regulations Crew and passengers entering the • European citizens: The entry and visitation of foreign citizens in Polynesian territory must be in possession 195 000 XPF, i.e. about 2 300 USD. French Polynesia is subject to the French of a valid passport. • American citizens: order n° 2000-372 from 115 000 XPF, i.e. about 04/26/2000 modified on 1 350 USD. Visas formalities depending on country of origin 11/25/2004.According DURATION OF STAY • Australians, COUNTRY to this text and to the Allowed to stay 90 days and All EEC and Andorre,, circular letter related to without visa (3 months legal authorization) South Pacific citizens: Honk Hong, Liechtenstein, Macao, Malte, the implementation of 93 000 XPF, i.e. about Monaco, Norway, San Marino, , the general rule on visas: 1 110 USD. Vatican, Brazil foreign citizens are not Allowed to stay 30 days without • Japanese citizens: Argentina, Bolivia, Brunei, , Chili, allowed to stay more visa (1 month legal authorization) 176 000 XPF, i.e. Costa Rica, Croatia, Czech Rep, , than 90 days by semester An extension for up to 60 days must be about 2 100 USD. Guatemala, Honduras, Hungary, in French Polynesia. The asked to the PAF , , Mexico, Nicaragua, day count starts from the These prices depend on New-Zealand, Panama, Paraguay, date of arrival on the the season and on the Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, , territory. No extension of rate of exchange; they Uruguay, USA visa is possible after 90 Must obtain visa prior to arrival are given to you only Other countries days. as a rough guide, based on the prices in Visitors who plan to stay in French Polynesia up to 90 days, should request a 90-day visa from It is also important to prior to their arrival. mid-season. the French Consulate in their home country know that the consular visas delivered by Consulates or Embassies can’t be extended Non EC citizens must additionally have a Office of Immigration (PAF/Immigration): locally, whatever the visa duration might be. return airline ticket to their resident country Maritime office (Port of Papeete): or deposit a bond into a bank on arrival (of tel.: (689) 42 40 74 • fax: (689) 42 39 73 After a 90-days period, your visit is considered the value of an air ticket to the country of Airport office (Tahiti Faa’a): as a long stay requiring a ‘long stay visa’. origin). Bounds can be returned at Papeete tel.: (689) 80 06 00 • fax: (689) 81 28 34 However, the Maritime Office of Immigration or in a departing island with a bank (Bora / (DRCL): is not the appropriate authority to deliver this Bora, Raiatea...). All crew changes and boat rue Jeanne d’Arc, Papeete,Tahiti new visa.To get a visa extension, you have to moves must be reported to the Maritime tel.: (689) 54 27 00 • fax: (689) 43 63 91 ask for a long stay permit at the DRCL’s Office of Immigration (P.A.F) as well as inter Customs Regional Office: directorate.Acceptance is subject to very islands cruises (farther than Moorea) and final tel.: (689) 50 55 50 specific rules. departure.

14 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia Address book Yachts agents A welcome of superyachts (and the others)...

PROFESSIONNALS MAKE YOUR WELCOME EASIER, AND ACCOMPANY YOU IN ALL YOUR VISIT.

Very few large private yachts would venture parasailing, surfing, , kitesurfing…), TAHITI OCEAN is an example of what can be in the South Pacific before the end of the modern communication and transport expected from a yacht agency. eighties, mostly because of the lack of infrastructures and an interesting culture Furthermore, specializedVIP travel agencies communication infrastructures.Things have made of mixed influences from Polynesian, such as PACIFIC AVENUES complete the offer now changed: owners can keep in touch with French and Chinese people. to make sure visitors return home with their businesses at all times on board. great souvenirs. AtTaina Marina, the Port Autonome de The first modern world tycoon to cruise our Papeete has created a dock reserved to large • Entrance and departure formalities, cruising waters may have been Malcolm Forbes who yachts (> page 23) that can accommodate up permit sent his 151' motor yacht Highlander in 1987 to 18 units at the same time and offers all the • Bunkering arrangements for a nine month transpacific crossing.Another services found in the Med or the . • Duty free fuel supply during the visit and on large yacht the people ofTahiti remember is departure the 282' Trump Princess. She came inTahiti in Taina Marina is also home to the large yacht • Repairs and refurbishment 1988 and was an impressive sight in the then agency TAHITI OCEAN. Created in 1994, • Cruise planning and call preparation quiet harbor of Papeete. TAHITI OCEAN has served more than 400 • Luxury charter superyachts and has developed a wide range • Concierge services Traffic has since then increased progressively of services and supplies to assist captains and • Activity desk to reach a top of 50 to 60 large yachts on crew in offering unforgettable holidays to • Medical assistance their way to the America’s Cup held in their guests and passengers. • Personal security Auckland, New Zealand in 2000 and 2003. • Crew assistance Nowadays, an average 40 superyachts call at • Banking and accounting operations Tahiti every year. • Provisions with selected suppliers • Parts and chandlery French Polynesia is certainly one of the • Car and boat rental world’s best cruising destinations for large • Plane or helicopter charters yachts as it offers an exceptional collection of • Private beach or rental stunning anchorages, security at all times (no • Excursions and tours h rricanes, no pirates!), deep tranquility, • Private massage and spa renewed pleasures for active visitors in a • Private dive guides preserved environment (diving, fishing, hiking, •…

Address book Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 15 Tirage à terre (travelift 25T) • Gardiennage à terre sur Ber • Peinture carennes ou coques • Mécanique marine • Réfrigération • Sablage • Réparation voiles et tauds • Pièces détachées • Fibre de verre • Acier & inox • Aluminium • Usinage • Menuiserie • Soudure • etc.

Haulot (25T travelift) • Longterm storage in steer cradle • Slipway • Paint topside & bottom • Mechanical work • Marine electricity • Refrigeration • Sand blasting • Sail loft • Parts • Fibreglassing • Machining • Aluminium work • work • Welding • etc.

tel.: (689) 600 545 • fax : (689) 600 546 or VHF 68 [email protected] • www.raiatea.com/carenage PO box 1111 • Uturoa Raiatea Polynésie française One of the most beautiful playground Useful informations in the world, as big as Europe... • Currency: Pacific (XPF ou CFP). • Water: drinking water in the Marquesas, Each one of the 5 archipelagoes in French Rate: 1 (€) = 119,33 XPF Papeete, Bora Bora and Moorea. Polynesia – the Society (Leeward/Windward 1 USD ($) = 90 XPF. Everywhere else: no drinking water. islands),Austral, Marquesas and Gambier Banks are generally open from 8:00 a.m. We advise you to buy bottles of water. islands – has its own character,but all of them to 4:00 p.m. (closed for the week-end), • Phone: (calling code) are enchanting and attractive. and you can find cashpoints and France: 00 33 + number The archipelagoes you are introduced to in exchange almost everywhere. United States: 00 1 + number the following pages – Marquesas,Tuamotu, • Post offices: generally open from 7:30 a.m. Chili: 00 56 Leeward andWindward islands –, correspond to 4:30 p.m. (depending on the islands). Japan: 00 81 to the most frequented navigation circuit. • Shops: generally open from 7:30 a.m. to : 00 34 Depending on the Archipelago, you will find 5:30 p.m. with differences between the Information: 36 12 either idyllic and wild anchorages, or quality islands and the type of shops • Internet: In addition to the cybercafes, you nautical infrastructures, with everything you • Electricity: 110 or 220V depending on the can log onto Internet with a wifi connection need at your arrival. islands (220V and 380V in some marinas). (manapass or Iaoranet: > page 27)

Polynesian experience Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 17 From archipelago to archipelago

The Marquesas Islands Distance from Tahiti: 1350 km Area:330 km 2 Taiohae LATITUDE 7°55/10°33 SOUTH, LONGITUDE 138°35/140°43 WEST Main town: Main islands: THE TWO PORTS FOR ENTRY TO THE MARQUESAS ARE NUKU HIVA AND HIVA OA, Northern group: FOR ENTRY FORMALITIES WITH THE AUTHORITIES. Nuku Hiva, , Ua Pou Southern group: NUKU HIVA: UA POU: Hiva Oa,Tahuata, Fatu Hiva Anchorages: from October to February,the bays in Anchorages: Safe anchorage at Hakahau (shops, Level of navigation: the south are more sheltered.The most popular is restaurants, infirmary, Post Office, bank, airport) in the Easy (see page 8) Taiohae with a stable, if often rolling anchorage; and a bays ofVaiehu and Uapo. small quay for disembarking in a (don’t forget to Don’t miss it: the flowering pebbles of Hohoi; the drop a small anchor). Facilities available: bathroom King’s Valley (Hakamaii) with its tikis and majestic TAHUATA: facilities, non drinking water,snack restaurant, yacht petroglyphs. Anchorages: water supplies and provisions atVaitahu services (washing-machines, mechanical work shop, sail- Gendarmerie tel.: 91 53 05 (grocery store, infirmary, Post Office, no bank). ► loft...).Anchorage possible in the east of the bay.Access Dentist tel.: 92 53 58 Weather permitting, the bay of Hapatoni is to be to beach and restaurant of the hotel Pearl Lodge or to Infirmary, Hakahau tel.: 92 53 75 preferred (small quay to disembark in a dinghy, grocery the Rose CorsairYacht Club. From July to September, Infirmary, Hakamaii tel.: 92 52 99 store, arts and crafts centre, marae). Splendid Hakaehu in the north is a better bet (possible to Infirmary, Hakatao tel.: 92 51 04 anchorages in front of the white sand beaches on the disembark at the mouth of a small river) and Anaho First Aid centre, Haakuti tel.: 92 54 91 north-west side of the island (Bay of Hamoenoa). (restaurant, water,fruit...) excursions to the bay of First Aid centre, Hakahetau tel.: 92 55 12 Don’t miss it: the huge ; the remains Hatiheu (statue of theVirgin Mary at an altitude of AirTahiti, agency Hakahau tel.: 91 52 25 of the fort and the cemetery for French sailors. 300m, restaurant) depending on the weather,anchorage Bank Socredo, agency Hakahau tel.: 92 53 63 Infirmary, Vaitahu tel.: 92 92 27 ► in the Baie du Contrôleur, on the West coast. Tourist Office tel.: 92 53 86 First Aid centre, Hanatetena tel.: 92 92 62 Don’t miss it: Saturday morning (4:30-7:00 a.m) Visitors' bureau tel.: 92 54 81 First Aid centre, Motopu tel.: 92 92 36 small quay-side market inTaiohae; hike along the paths marked by Marquises Rando. HIVA OA: Gendarmerie tel.: 91 03 05 Anchorages: Atuona has a harbour (service station ► Hospital, Taiohae tel.: 91 02 00 with wharf, drinking water, car rental, grocery store). Pharmacy tel.: 91 00 90 At the village, 3km away, there is a medical centre, First Aid centre, Aakapa tel.: 92 04 61 restaurants, Post office, airport… Infirmary, Taipivai tel.: 92 01 42 For a more isolated anchorage, the Bay ofTakauku is Infirmary, Hatiheu tel.: 92 01 43 near-by. AirTahiti, agencyTaiohae tel.: 91 02 25 Don’t miss it: the cultural centres dedicated to Bank Socredo, agencyTaiohae tel.: 92 03 63 Gauguin and Brel; the Museum of traditional arts; [email protected] the archaeological sites ofTaaoa and Lipona. Tourist Office tel.: 92 03 73 Gendarmerie tel.: 91 71 05 FATU HIVA: ► Marine Diesel stationTotal tel.: 92 06 18 Medical centre tel.: 92 73 75 Anchorages: without an airport, accessible only by Nuku HivaYacht services tel.: 91 01 50 Dental centre tel.: 92 78 17 sea, it is an authentic island where life is very simple. Marquises Rando tel.: 92 07 13 Infirmary, Puamau tel.: 92 74 96 Omoa (at the foot of the majestic MountTouaouoho) Hotel Pearl Lodge (restaurant, bar) tel.: 92 07 10 First aid centre, Nahoe tel.: 92 71 70 has an infirmary, a Post office, a museum and a few Rose Corsair tel.: 91 02 35 First aid centre, Hanapaaoa tel.: 92 72 32 shops.You disembark on the beach at the mouth of Tourist Office tel.: 92 78 93 the river.Another possible anchorage is in the bay of UA HUKA: AirTahiti, agency Atuona tel.: 92 73 41 Hanavave (magical, also called the Bay of Virgins). Small Anchorages: the best ones are situated in the Bays Bank Socredo, agency Atuona tel.: 92 73 54 wharf for dinghy with drinking water, grocery shop, of Haavei,Vaipee and Hane (shops, infirmary, airport) Gas Station Temetiu tel.: 92 71 85 church, first aid centre. Don’t miss it: the Papuakeikaha Arboretum; the Sea Cyber Services Laundry tel.: 92 79 85 Don’t miss it: the walk to the waterfall at the far Museum; horse trekking, a visit to the sculptors’ studios; Météo France, Atuona tel.: 92 73 78 end of the bay; a must: the dried bananas or the dried they work with wood, bone and nuts. Hotel Pearl Lodge (restaurant, bar) tel.: 92 75 87 fish of Hanavave. Infirmary, Hane tel.: 92 60 58 SubAtuona Plongée tel.: 92 70 88 Infirmary, Omoa tel.: 92 80 36 ► ► Tourist Office tel.: 92 60 19 Marquises Création tel.: 92 70 77 First Aid centre, Hanavave tel.: 92 80 61

18 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia That’s all we needed! From archipelago to archipelago

Tuamotu Islands Distance from Tahiti: 300 km Area (including Gambier): 2 LATITUDE 14°/23° SOUTH, LONGITUDE 135°/149° WEST 1 000 000 km Main Town:Rangiroa THE ATOLLS OF ,FAKARAVA,RANGIROA AND OFFER INTERESTING ACCESS Main atolls: AND MOORING CONDITIONS AND THERE ARE PLENTY OF SIGHTS TO VISIT. Rangiroa, Fakarava, and MANIHI: RANGIROA: Level of navigation: Anchorages: entrance to the lagoon is through the Anchorages: administrative port of the Tuamotu Caution (see page 8) Tairapa pass in the south west. Sailing in the vicinity of Islands, its huge lagoon can become a rough sea when the pearl farms is not to be recommended (in the south the south-east wind blows.Access is through one of and the centre of the lagoon) and these can be easily the two northern passes that are named after the two reached using the shuttles that leave from the wharf villages: TIKEHAU: situated near the village of Paeue (grocery store; diesel • Avatoru (deep-sea wharf, marina, station, quay-side Anchorages: an extraordinary lagoon, ideal for fuel at the shop, no quayside filling; infirmary,Post Office delivery for more than 100L, shops, restaurants, fishing and diving, accessible through one pass in the but no bank). Mooring near theTetarafa islet can also be medical and dental centre...). west (entry not advisable in a NW wind),Tuheiava, recommended. • Tiputa (wharf, small marina, shops and local market). where mooring is possible near the motuTeonai.The Don’t miss it: diving in the lagoon;restaurant and The current can reach a speed of 8 knots. Enter the fishing village is situated close to the pass. It is possible change at the Pearl Beach Resort hotel;visit to a pearl farm. pass with an incoming current or when the current is to anchor near the village ofTuherahera in the south Town Hall tel.: 96 42 55 on the turn. (wharf, quay, municipal water tank for water supplies, ► Infirmary, Manihi tel.: 96 43 67 Post office and Banks can be found in both village. shops, limited fuel supplies, infirmary, restaurants) but in First Aid centre, tel.: 96 45 01 Good moorings in the east are opposite the Kia Ora an east wind it is not to be recommended; or at the AirTahiti, agency Manihi tel.: 96 43 11 Hotel, at the of Faama, Mauahatea, Otepipi, islet,Tavania and at the motu,Aua, Puarua (the bird AirTahiti, agency Ahe tel.: 96 44 64 Naonao and Mahitu, or in the vicinity of the islets of island, not advisable if the birds are hatching) and Hotel Pearl Resort (restaurant, bar) tel.: 96 42 73 Kiroria,Atiati, Rahi, Hauone; and in the west (in fair Hiraumaine (fishing). weather) near the “blue lagoon”, motu Paio and motu Don’t miss it: theTeonai lagoonarium FAKARAVA: Pomariorio.There are five dive operators in Rangiroa. Town Hall, Tikehau tel.: 96 22 37 ► Anchorages: famous port of call for navigators, The exceptional density of its marine fauna accounts Infirmary, Tikehau tel.: 96 22 97 classified by Unesco as a Biosphere Natural Reserve, for its worldwide reputation. AirTahiti, agencyTikehau tel.: 96 22 34 there are now strict anchorage regulations (since July Don’t miss it: reef island; the ‘ sand beach’; a visit Tourist Information tel.: 96 22 42 2007). Anchorage is only allowed in zones indicated to the vineyard of Rangiroa and the church of Hotel Pearl Resort (restaurant, bar) tel.: 96 23 00 as ZN on the PGEM map (> page 9) for each atoll. Otepipia. As soon as you arrive, you must inform the Town Gendarmerie tel.: 93 11 55 ► Hall of your position and inquire about the rules and Town Hall, Tiputa tel.: 96 73 27 regulations.Access to Fakarava is through the Garue Town Hall, Avatoru tel.: 96 83 43 pass (not to be attempted with a northerly wind and Infirmary, Tiputa tel.: 96 73 96 an out-going current) to reach the village of Rotoava Medical centre, Avatoru tel.: 96 03 75 (deep-water wharf, infirmary, post office, shops – quay- Dental centre, Avatoru tel.: 96 03 75 side delivery of diesel oil in barrels of 200L). In the Bank Socredo, agencyTiputa tel.: 96 75 57 south, access is through theTumakohua pass (not to be Bank Socredo, agency Avatoru tel.: 96 85 63 attempted in a strong southerly wind); anchorage is Bank deTahiti, agency Rangiroa tel.: 96 85 52 possible near the village ofTetamanu. AirTahiti, agency Rangiroa tel.: 93 11 00 Don’t miss it: the old church built of coral; the ruins Taeo’o no Rairoa, rens. tourisme tel.: 96 82 67 if the Governor’s residence... Total Marine Gas Station tel.: 96 83 37 Town Hall tel.: 93 40 40 Tahiti Wine, vineyard of rangiroa tel.: 96 04 70 ► Police Station tel.: 98 41 45 Atolls voisins: Medical centre, Fakarava tel.: 98 42 24 Town Hall, tel.: 96 32 57 First Aid centre, Niau tel.: 96 93 02 First Aid centre, Mataiva tel.: 96 32 57 First Aid centre, Kauehi tel.: 96 90 27 AirTahiti, agency Mataiva tel.: 96 32 48 First Aid centre, Raraka tel.: 96 90 83 Town Hall, tel.: 96 91 60 AirTahiti, agency Fakarava tel.: 98 42 30 Infirmary, Makatea tel.: 96 91 62

Fuel Supplies Wealth and diversity Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 19

• In the Marquesas (water,fuel, grocer’s): Each of the possesses individual characte- The Australs, situated in the volcanic prolongation of the - Nuku Hiva: Bay of Taiohae,TOTAL gas station ristics that give French Polynesia its extraordinary , is an authentic archipelago with peaceful - Hiva Oa:Tahauku Bay, MOBIL gas station diversity.The Society Islands have landscapes varying traditional villages, ideal moorings, such as in the Virgin Bay, between the modern city and deep valleys, majestic bays . can be seen during the austral summer • In the Tuamotu (fuel, grocer’s): and white sand motus in the middle of turquoise blue in Rurutu.The , the farthest away - Manihi: to the grocer’s, near the darse, small fuel cans water.The Tuamotu Islands are made up of atolls, beauty archipelago, is a mixture of green pastures, magnificent - Fakarava: in Rotoava, delivery in barrels of 200 L in the wild, pink sand beaches and low lying land; paradise mountains and many marae to be found on most of the - Rangiroa: in Avatoru,TOTAL gas station or delivery for fishing (beware of ciguatera) scuba-diving, snorkelling islands.The Marquesas Islands, last but not least, with their in barrel of100 L and pearl culture. wild and magic beauty,are composed of vast plateaus and - Tikehau: to the shops, small fuel cans sharp peaks surrounded by surging breakers. From archipelago to archipelago

Leeward Islands Distance from Tahiti: 180 km Area:535 km 2 Main town: LATITUDE 16°/18° SOUTH, LONGITUDE 149°/153° WEST Uturoa in Raiatea THIS 5-ISLAND GROUP CONSTITUTES,WITH THE WINDWARD ISLANDS,THE SOCIETY ARCHIPELAGO: The 5 main islands: INTO THE ROOT OF CULTURE AND THE HISTORY,THE HEART OF . Huahine, Raiatea,Tahaa, Bora Bora and Maupiti RAIATEA: Society archipelago made of two groups of island: Level of navigation: to the west, the Leeward islands (Huahine, Raiatea, Anchorages: in the center of town Uturoa, a dock Easy (see page 8) Tahaa, Bora-Bora…); to the east, the Windward and a marina offer useful commodities: islands withTahiti and Moorea. Gas stations, hospital, medical services, shops, The Leeward Islands has the principal sail-boat-rental restaurants… Getting out of Uturoa, to the west, companies, the sailing condition (> page 8), the you’ll find the Apooiti marina (Dock, pond, pier, water, diversity, the access to the culture and gas, laundry-wash, restaurants, shop, technical support). nautical substructures make this place a real paradise The technical work zone of Uturaerae (with different for sailors. work shops: , …; marina – water, electricity). Recommended anchorage are located onTetooroa HUAHINE: bay (fishing, surfing), theToamaro islets (snorkelling) and Anchorages: Avamoa channel and Avapehi channel Nao Nao islets (nice beach, diving), Opoa bays (wharf both bring you to the principal town Fare. (Dock, Gas at proximity of the archaeological siteTaputapuatea) station, water,medic, shops, restaurants, banks, and a little and Faaroa (going up river). market on Saturday morning). Don’t miss it: hike up to MountTapioi; dive the If the dock is too crowded (you need to ask the dock Nordby wreck; visit the great Marae of , manager before docking) anchor in the sand in the and a show at the Hawaiiki Nui Hotel (reserve center,or in Haavai bay facing Avapehi (if south or west anchorage at reception)… wind). Town HallTaputapuatea tel.: 60 03 60 ► Get to Avea bay thru the lagoon, a beautiful white sand Town HallTumaraa tel.: 66 31 35 beach in the south with many anchorages on the way Town Hall Uturoa tel.: 60 03 80 (Teapaa, Bourayne, Haapu bay-pier,water,grocery shop). Gendarmerie tel.: 60 03 05 The two other channels bring you to Maroe bay (wild) Town police tel.: 66 44 17 and Faie (marina, pier). Uturoa Hospital tel.: 60 08 00 Don’t miss it: amazing departures of Hawaiiki’nui Uturoa health centre tel.: 60 02 01 Va’a end of October/beg of November; and Dental centre tel.: 60 02 09 sacred sites; fish catch in Maeva; Eden park; sacred Pharmacy tel.: 66 34 44 … [email protected] Town Hall tel.: 60 63 21 Tourist Office tel.: 60 07 77 ► Gendarmerie tel.: 60 62 05 Bank Socredo, agency Uturoa tel.: 60 07 00 Emergency tel.: 68 82 47 Bank ofTahiti, agency Uturoa tel.: 60 02 80 Infirmary tel.: 68 82 48 Bank of Polynesia, Uturoa tel.: 60 04 50 Dental center tel.: 68 79 11 AirTahiti, airport agency Uturoa tel.: 60 04 44 Pharmacy tel.: 68 80 90 Poe-ma Insurances, agency Uturoa tel.: 66 42 25 Total Gas Station tel.: 68 71 25 Gas Station Port tel.: 66 31 24 Mobil Gas Station tel.: 68 81 41 Gas StationTapioi Marina tel.: 66 32 32 [email protected] Hawaiki Nui Hôtel (restaurant, bar) tel.: 60 05 00 Tourist Office tel.: 68 78 81 ITS Espace Com (cybercafé) tel.: 60 25 25 Dock Manager tel.: 68 82 11 Haavitiviti Services (groceries) tel.: 73 12 15 AirTahiti, agency Fare tel.: 68 77 02 Port and marinas: VHF: 12 / 16 Bank Socredo, agency Fare tel.: 60 63 60 Dock Manager tel.: 66 31 52 Bank of Polynesia, agency Fare tel.: 60 63 51 Apooiti Marina tel.: 66 12 20 Bank ofTahiti, agency Fare tel.: 68 82 46 RaiateaYacht-Club tel.: 66 42 20

20 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia That’s all we needed! TAHA’A: BORA BORA: Town Hall tel.: 60 58 00 ► Anchorages: in the lagoon, you can sail all around Anchorages: you access to the “Pearl of the Pacific” Gendarmerie tel.: 60 59 05 the Island, it’s a wonderful tour. thru the only channel inTeavanui (up north-west), Town Police tel.: 67 70 41 Prefer anchorages inTapuamu bay (well covered with a directionVaitape docks, quick docking possible (gas Infirmary, Vaitape tel.: 67 70 77 dock and a gas station, water and grocery shop…); in stations, marina, water, shops, med. care, restaurants…). Dental centre, Vaitape tel.: 67 70 61 Vaitoare (village and wharf); in Haamene bay (village, Except the Yacht-Club and it’s 15 anchorage spots close Pharmacy tel.: 67 70 30 dock, pier, yacht-club, pearl farm, medic center); in motu to Fare piti point (anchorage, water, ice, laundry room, [email protected] Toahotu, Mahaea,Tehotu,Tautau; Patio (medical and bathrooms, internet), you’ll notice, it’s the only fresh Tourist Office tel.: 67 76 36 dental center, bank, post, shops);Tiva (dock, water, water refill spot.We suggest refilling in Raiatea orTaha’a. AirTahiti, agency deVaitape tel.: 60 53 53 groceries, restaurant);Apu bay (south point, the Best anchorages are located close to “Pointe Raititi”, the Total Gas Station tel.: 67 75 22 Taravana yacht-club, marina-dock, pier, anchorage, north part of motuTo’opua (many artefacts from Station Météo France tel.: 67 74 52 electricity, laundry room, bathrooms, internet, bar- ancient god Hiro); Faanui bay (petroglyphs, marae); the Bora BoraYacht Club tel.: 67 70 69 restaurant. Teveiroa motu and south, motu mute. Pearl Beach Resort & Spa tel.: 60 52 00 Don’t miss it: visit the “vanilla house”; excursion with The channel between motus are not practicable for Bloody Mary’s tel.: 67 72 86 Vanilla tours; visit the Hibiscus foundation for turtles, then ships that have more than 8ft deep in water, and motu an evening party at TaravanaYacht Club… (lagoonarium),Taurere bay, close to motu MAUPITI: Town Hall Patio tel.: 60 03 60 Piti Uu Uta et Piti UuTai are great anchorage spots. Anchorages: Maupiti’s charms can be discovered ► Town HallTumaraa tel.: 66 31 35 Then, the great Bloody Mary restaurant offering going thru Onoiau channel down south (cross channel Gendarmerie tel.: 60 81 05 anchorages. early morning up to noon, but avoid in case of big Town Police tel.: 60 63 22 Don’t miss it: the Marine Museum; snorkelling in the south swells). It will bring you into the lagoon suitable Fire station tel.: 68 82 18 famous lagoon; Paul EmileVictor’s motu; the arrival of only for shallow hulls, and cose to the village (find Medical/dental centre, Patio tel.: 65 63 31 the race Hawaiiki Nui Va’a (in Nov.) at Pointe Matira; water, limited amounts of gas at Electra).The Island has Medical/dental centre, Haamene tel.: 65 67 51 a romantic stop over or a memorable Spa at Bora Bora one dock in south of pointe Patito and 200 yards east, a Pharmacy, Haamene tel.: 65 67 69 Pearl Resort and Spa; the traditional Heiva (in July) on wharf (Pauma). But the best anchorage spot is close to Bank Socredo, agency Patio tel.: 60 80 10 the main place inVaitape; for the bravest hike up to the motuTiapaa and Pitihahei. Bank ofTahiti, agencyTahaa tel.: 65 63 14 Otemanu mountain… Don’t miss it: visit the marae; swim between the Total Gas Station tel.: 65 67 00 points of Puoro’o andTereia that end to a shallow aera Tourist Information tel.: 60 81 66 Please note: because of its environmental action for called Baby trail… TaravanaYacht Club VHF: 68 tel.: 65 61 01 the last 6 years, the Island has been given for the Town Hall tel.: 60 15 56 ► Hibiscus Hotel tel.: 65 61 06 European Label “Blue Pavilion” assuring the quality of Doctors tel.: 60 15 70 LeTahaa (Relais & Chateau Hotel) tel.: 60 84 00 waters. Tourist Office tel.: 60 15 55

Don’t miss it Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 21

The marae Taputapuatea, in Raiatea “This marae is the father of all other sacred sites. Visitors coming to assist to the great ceremonies that were Let’s mention the presence of a sacred stoned loaded of It’s composed of different lithical structures made out of occurring. Historically, Taputapuatea was the center of – spiritual power – called Mata Rahi (the large eye), coral blocks that were taken right on the reef with fire religious and politic power of all Polynesia when the first different tikis, a shooting platforms, a 9ft monolithic stone burning big pieces of coral making them blow up. Europeans arrived. Then happened the exile to , called Tepapateaiatu’ia. It marks the place where nobles Theses structures are essentially made of different New-Zealand, that constitute the Polynesian were getting the symbolic red belt, the maro'ura, to be platforms and are disposed on over 300 , facing triangle.We date this back to the XVIIth century.What ever named king or queen during ceremonials…”. Te Ava Mo’a channel. From there were arriving all island of you interest with ancient building, you can only be amazed In « L’Archipel de la Société.Tahiti et ses îles », guide the Pacific abroad … by the size of this site. by Emmanuel and Aïu Deschamps, Editions Le Motu. nPpeeharbour Papeete in Yachts” des “quai The e iearea side Sea h aiaTaina marina The

22 h aet abu nTahiti in harbour Papeete The Archipel en d’Archipel

23 Area:1200 km 2 Main towns: Papeete, Faa’a and in Tahiti. Papeete is the French Polynesia capital city. From archipelago to archipelago Windward islands: Tahiti, Moorea,Tetiaroa, Windward islands Level of navigation: Easy (see page 8) LATITUDE 17°/18° SOUTH, LONGITUDE 149°/150° WEST TAHITI AND MOOREA ARE THE MOST POPULATED ISLANDS OF FRENCH POLYNESIA. BESIDES THE GROWING URBANIZATION,THEY ARE MAGNIFICENT ISLANDS,THAT MUST NOT BE NEGLECTED.

TAHITI: restaurants, fuel dock and supermarket.The second is Some annual highlights are: (> page 31) the Heiva Anchorages: BecauseTahiti is actually made up of the TahitiYacht Club at Arue. Berthing is available for during July (a cultural festival with dances, chants, two islands connected by an isthmus, we talk about it boats up to 45ft.Anchorage space available also, as well traditional , handicrafts);The FIFO, (International as two parts, Tahiti nui (the larger part) and Tahiti Iti as a fuel dock. festival of Oceanian movies) in February; the Billabong (the smaller part, the peninsula). Papeete the capital You will find berthing and mooring areas all around Pro Surf Contest on the famous waves at Teahupoo (with modern urban infrastructure as well as authentic Tahiti: in May/early June; Tatoonesia, (a tattoo art festival in cultural areas – don't miss the market place • Going around the west coast of the bigger island: November)… downtown); the smaller portion, or peninsula, is Outumaoro (piers and various services on land, long During the sailing season, theTahitian Sailing Federation located in the south and contains a number of are forbidden for long stay),Vaitupa (dock, organizes several different events.The amazing worthwhile archaeological sites.The public docks in water, safe location),Venus Point (not useable when Tahiti Pearl Regatta (in Leeward Islands) and the Papeete are accessed through its channel (this can be winds from north to south-west) and motu Aau. Tahiti-Moorea Sailing Rendezvous are famous sailing dangerous with a north, north-west swell running), • Along the peninsula: Nansouty islet, anchorage “la events (open to both local and visiting sailors). Pass throughTaunoa channel with its fishing docks.You Boudeuse”, or anchorage “Bougainville” (where must contact the harbour master Bougainville anchored); Faratea docks inTaravao before your entry in the port.You will need his (docks, fresh water, fuel, grocery store); (village Port Autonome de Papeete tel.: 50 54 54 ► authorisation before crossing the airport channel, with water, fuel, grocery stores, a river which can be PAP,emergency line tel.: 42 12 12 especially for boats drawing more than 18 ft of water. explored and a nice) and its lagoon, the anchorage is Harbour Control Station tel.: 50 54 50. Yachts need to fly a yellow flag and their captains located at the south end, down river Aiurua, basin of [email protected] VHF: 12 / 16 BLU: 2638 Khz. must go ashore and see the port, customs and Vaiau (excursions to caves, and famous Surfspot Yachts office tel.: 50 54 51 immigrations authorities within 48 hours of arrival. calledTeahupoo);Vairao docks (water, fuel dock, Immigration (PAF), marine office tel.: 42 40 74 Yachts are welcome atYacht Quay and at Bounty bathroom, shops…); Phaeton docks (Tahiti Nautic Customs tel.: 50 55 50 Quay in the center of Papeete (water, electricity, Center marina, with designated docking spots, Sanitary informations tel.: 54 45 85 Bathrooms are available).Administrative offices for workshops, chandlery, laundry room, bathrooms, fuel Harbour master's office tel.: 50 54 82 completion of paperwork are nearby. From this docks, restaurants). Harbour Police tel.: 54 19 52 downtown location you can enjoy movies theaters, • Going along this big Island to the east, you’ll find Gendarmerie, Papeete tel.: 46 73 67 shopping, restaurants, art galleries, and all the other anchorages in Motuovini and Puuru islet in Papeari Gendarmerie, Taravao tel.: 54 73 05 attractions of the capital…In this vicinity, you'll also find lagoon, Mataiea bay,and Atimaono anchorage. Marine Gendarmerie tel.: 46 52 95 many maritime suppliers and workshops where marine Don’t miss it: there are many different cultural Nautic Squad tel.: 80 37 00 equipment can be purchased or repaired. A fuel dock activities inTahiti (Tahiti museum, House of culture in Mamao hospital tel.: 46 62 62 is nearby (close to the ferry docks). Note, however, Papeete, James Norman Hall’s house). Paofai private hospital tel.: 46 18 90 that in order to purchase more than 1,000 liters Also, sports (surf, hikes, va’a), places to relax (spas, Cardella private hospital tel.: 46 04 25 (250 gallons) you will need to go to the Fare Ute Gas beaches, cinemas, theatre, concerts…), and a wide Taravao hospital tel.: 57 76 76 Docks. Outside of Papeete two other marine facilities variety of places to dine. Check out the “roulottes” on Dental centre tel.: 54 95 54 are accessible to visitors: MarinaTaina at Punaauia with Vaiate Place, close to docks…). [email protected] berths and quays which can accommodate vessels of There are many festive events all year long in Papeete GIETahitiTourism tel.: 50 57 12 unlimited size. Facilities include: telephone, electricity, and in other areas ofTahiti (and Moorea). AirTahiti booking tel.: 86 42 42

24 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia The marinas of Tahiti Finding Diesel

You will find three full-service marinas inTahiti, each well water, electricity, bathrooms, laundry room, fuel dock, • In Tahiti located with complete equipment professional facilities: 3 bars and restaurant, workshop with professional - Papeete: on the dock, ferries quay •The TahitiYacht club is located in Arue, PK 4 accessible craftsmen and also a dive center.This facility is equipped - Marina Taina:Total gas station from the Arue’s channel andTaunoa’s channel (Pirae). to berth very large yachts. - TahitiYacht Club in Arue: Shell gas station Berthing is available for up to 160 boats on 25 moorings Contact tel.: 41 02 25;VHF: 09. - Hitia’a: gas station next to small dock and 4 piers.Amenities include: fresh water, electricity, •The Tahiti nautic center,is in Taravao’s marina, located - Taravao: in town 1 Km from Faratea docks bathrooms, laundry room, gas station, bar, snack, sailing in Phaeton bay. accessible from theTapuaeraha channel. - Mataiea: nearby Tehoro dock school and diving center. Contact tel.: 42 78 03;VHF: 06. Up to 20 boats can be accommodated on the dock and in • In Moorea • Taina Marina located in Punaauia, PK 9,5, accessible the anchorage.Amenities include: fresh water,electricity, - Paopao: Mobil gas station in Cook Bay from theTaapuna channel and the Papeete channel. bathrooms, laundry rooms, fuel dock, restaurants, sailing -Vaiare: Mobil gas station (on land) Berthing for up to 500 boats.Amenities include: fresh club, specialised work shops. Contact tel.: 54 76 16.

TETIAROA: This is a wonderful place. Historically, it was the family’s residence.Then in 1966 the atoll became ’s property. Even though it still belongs to his family, its lagoon is in the public domain and is accessible to sailors. Access thru the tiny channel at the east, only on clear days (no large, deep vessels). Anchor toward the south end close to motu Rimatuu (avoid anchorage during south wind).You can go by dingy to other motu.

Attention!:Tetiaroa is a protected area. (nesting area for various bird species and turtles). It’s forbidden to fish along the reef.

MOOREA: • in front of Pao Pao pharmacy, in front of Mareto MAIAO: at 75 Km east of Moorea, it’s a little Anchorages: We call Moorea the « sister island » beach (Entry via Opunohu Bay) in front ofTeavaro’s Paradise. But sailors and non-residents are not because of its close proximity toTahiti. Town Hall. welcome on the island. No hotels or restaurants. Moorea is accessible from two different channels. • the little dock of Papetoai allows a short stop (dock, Channels are not deep enough for large vessels. Tothe east, the channel between the two islands is grocery store, post office, a famous Octogonal Permission to anchor in the lagoon must be obtained subject to crossing swells from the east and south, temple, the oldest in Polynesia). from the town council and visits without a specific making it choppy. Plus, it is also frequently used by local Don’t miss it: the show at Tiki Village; a spa at the purpose are not recommended (forbidden for more ferries and cargo ships. Moorea pearl resort & Spa hotel; the sacred carvings than a day). The main channel will bring you to the docks inVaiare fromTihoti facing the Papetoai temple; a visit to the Town Hall tel.: 56 02 55 ► (facilities include a marina, fresh water, electricity, tropical plantation at the agriculture high-school; the Health centre tel.: 56 02 50 laundry, bathrooms,ATM, fuel dock, restaurants, archeological site ofTitiroa; Church called “Saint hospital, supermarket). Safe access can also be made famille”; the motu Moea and Fare One… through the north and northwest Channels. Town Hall Moorea tel.: 55 04 55 ► Attention!: Moorea has a PGEM – Marine Vaiare harbour VHF: 12 tel.: 56 26 97 Management Plan (> page 9) – that regulates the use MarinaVaiare tel.: 56 45 58 of lagoon space and its resources. Check the PGEM Gendarmerie tel.: 55 25 00 map, which shows the protected lagoon areas the Town police,Afareaitu tel.: 56 36 36 different fishing zones. In the lagoon and protected Town police, Papetoai tel.: 56 14 10 areas speed is limited to 5 knots. Fire station, Paopao tel.: 56 20 18 Authorized anchorages are: Hospital, Afareaitu tel.: 56 24 24 • In Cooks Bay: Mobil gas station with a pier (facilities Pharmacy, Paopao tel.: 55 20 75 include: water, fuel, groceries, restaurants, shops, Pharmacy, Haapiti tel.: 56 38 37 gendarmerie, pharmacy). Paopao health centre tel.: 56 12 03 • In Opunohu Bay: a wild and beautiful. Don’t miss the Papetoai health centre tel.: 56 14 78 excursion up to the belvedere for an exceptional Dental centre tel.: 55 22 29 view of the two bays (Also available: horseback www.gomoorea.com • [email protected] riding, excursions, marae...). But watch out: no Tourism office tel.: 56 29 09 allowed in the innermost part of the bay! Moorea Pearl Resort & Spa tel.: 56 17 50

That’s all we needed! Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 25 From archipelago to archipelago Directory of marine suppliers

Construction and repair : Alunox Marine tel./fax: 66 46 30 Port de Papeete tel.: 54 18 52 PhaétonVoiles sail maker tel.: 57 66 07 [email protected] [email protected] (hauling). Plomberium plumbing shop tel.: 50 04 44 Welding shop, all types of aluminum up to 25’, aluminum Raiatea Carénage Services tel.: 60 05 45 [email protected] and structures. [email protected] fax: 60 05 46 Plomberium plumbing shop tel.: 66 24 71 Boat Maintenance et Services tel.: 74 95 60 www.raiatea.com/carenage Quincaillerie Hugues tel.: 43 04 55 [email protected] Travelift: 25t. Hauling capacity: 120t. Sail and cover repair, [email protected] • www.etshugues.com Electricity, spars, engine repair, epoxy & polyester. spare parts, fiberglass, steel – stainless steel, aluminum, Hardware shop, stainless steel nuts and bolts, fishing gears Cegelec tel.: 41 41 41 , welding, bottom and hull paint, antifouling/varnish, Polybois tel.: 50 80 50 [email protected] sanding, engine repair, electricity, gas, refrigeration, watch Marine , plywood, waterproof cedar, all types of Bottom paint, hull and engine repair, electricity, refrigeration. keeping, salvage and recovery… wood (teak, …), marine varnish. Chantier naval des îles (CNI) tel.: 66 10 10 Tahiti Nautic Center Taravao tel.: 54 76 16 Polyfix tel.: 50 01 80 [email protected] fax: 66 49 87 [email protected] • www.nautisport.pf tel.: 57 76 16 [email protected] • www.polypneus.pf www.raiateamarine.com •VHF 72 Marina, wintering, marine shipyard, bottom paint, ship Screws, stainless steel A4 marine nuts and bolts, cleaning Hauling capacity: 25t. Polyester, epoxy, composite, engine chandlery, engine repair. products, security clothe and shoes, raincoats, Mirka & repair,electricity,electronic,bottom paint,osmosis repair,solar Technimarine tel.: 43 02 22 Abralon sand paper for plastic and wood hull. and wind generator repair, life raft certification, Mercury [email protected] • www.technimarine.pf Polyform chandlery / polyester tel.: 57 96 21 engine representation. Travelift: 70t. Construction and repair shipyard, bottom paint Raiatea Express tel.: 60 23 23 Chantier naval de l’Océanie tel.: 43 10 42 and maintenance. Chandlery and supplies,Volvo penta andYamaha engines. [email protected] Uturaerae Marine tel./fax: 66 46 52 Raiatea Marine tel.: 60 00 46 Epoxy, polyester, hauling and bottom paint, osmosis repair, [email protected] [email protected] fax : 66 28 41 carpentry… Steel work, construction, maintenance, aluminum and steel Marine maintenance, chandlery, polyester, epoxy, electronic, Chantier naval du Pacifique sud tel.: 50 52 70 repair. gas and diesel engine repair… [email protected] Chandlery, sail maker,plumbing, SARL Chimecal tel.: 42 69 51 Construction, all repairs, gas and diesel engine repair. carpentry and other supplies: Foam fabrication and cut, mattresses. Marinalu tel.: 66 25 04 Aline chandlery tel.: 42 97 11 Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 [email protected] ApiYachting chandlery tel.: 42 18 10 [email protected] All types of aluminum boats from 20’ to 70’. Avei’a sail/upholstery tel.: 66 14 04 Ship chandlery, engines, tenders, paint… Nautisport Industries Taravao tel.: 54 76 30 Cetel tel.: 43 89 99 Siou Lee hardware tel.: 42 80 22 [email protected] • www.nautisport.pf Electronic, radio VHF HF SSB, antennas, guaranty work. Soc. Polynésienne de Miroiterie tel.: 43 64 60 Marine construction, repair and aluminum welding. Fuller Christian carpentry tel.: 48 36 01 [email protected] Océan Carénage tel.: 42 18 10 Ghibli Sailing Canvas sail/upholstery tel.: 66 21 73 Clear and colored Plexiglas cut, mirror Plexiglas. [email protected] Nautisport Papeete / Taravao tel.: 50 59 59 Atelier Timau tel.: 82 24 86 Sails: fabrication and repair. Upholstery: tarpaulin, cover, Nautisport tel.: 66 35 83 Fabrication and repair of covers, tarpaulins… cushion… Spars: stainless steel and other cable. Engine [email protected] • www.nautisport.pf Tropic Froid tel.: 43 29 84 repair. Bottom paint. Garmin - Simrad - Navico: sail and repair, GPS, depth Refrigeration equipment sail and repair. Patrick Lecler tel.: 71 84 18 sounder, radio VHF SSB, radar etc. ship chandlery, electronic Uturoa Marine tel./fax: 60 02 35 [email protected] supplies… sail roller furling, cables, spars, windlass, ropes… Yamaha engine sail and repair. Boat maintenance: electricity, electronic, engine, polyester, Nicolas l'Ebéniste Moorea tel./fax: 28 46 23 Visserie Polynésienne tel.: 83 43 10 spars, chandlery, sails, paint & varnish. [email protected] • www.flexiteek.com Screws, chandlery, fixing, drilling, marine stainless steel (A2 Polynésie Marine tel.: 58 47 47 Flexiteek decks and carpentry. and A4), brass… [email protected] Ocean 2000 Marine tel.: 83 83 93 Vongues Emile ship chandlery tel.: 50 93 00 Polyester,carpentry,metal,boat renovation and maintenance, [email protected] interior and deck repair… Chandlery, engines, filters, propellers, plumbing supplies, hoses, antifouling…

26 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia That’s all we needed! Tahiti Moorea Raiatea - Taha’a

Power: MERCRUISER Autochic tel.: 43 97 27 Raiatea Express tel.: 60 23 23 Sopomeca tel.: 50 87 00 [email protected] Volvo Penta,Yamaha. MERCURY Starting and service batteries, maintenance products, oil, Raiatea Marine tel.: 60 00 46 Polyform tel.: 57 96 21 plumbing… Mercury. Raiatea Marine tel.: 60 00 46 Chanson Import tel.: 42 57 40 Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 [email protected] [email protected] NANNI DIESEL Solar panels, battery regulators, wind generators. Yanmar, Mercury,Apex, Plastimo. Sopom tel.: 42 99 69 Marine Elec tel.: 28 78 65 Sodiva tel.: 50 87 00 PLASTIMO [email protected] Caterpillar. Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 Specialist in marine electricity. Sopom tel.: 42 99 69 SUZUKI PSA Batteries batteries tel.: 42 47 22 Baudouin, Nanni Diesel. Nautisport Papeete / Taravao tel.: 50 59 59 Tahiti Piles et Lumières tel.: 43 83 70 Sopomeca tel.: 50 87 00 Nautisport tel.: 66 35 83 Small batteries, service batteries, lamp bulbs… Baudouin, Cummings Marine, Mercruiser. Tahiti Nautic Center Taravao tel.: 54 76 16 Technopro tel.: 82 94 98 Tahiti Nautic Center Taravao tel.: 54 76 16 TOHATSU [email protected] Evinrude/ Johnson, Suzuki,Volvo Penta. Océan 2000 Marine tel.: 83 83 93 Electric equipment and Unisolar solar panels. Technimarine tel.: 43 02 22 Polynésie Marine tel.: 58 47 47 Tenesol Polynésie / Soler Energie tel.: 54 85 85 Maintenance and repair, all brands. Vanfau tel.: 43 80 62 [email protected] • www.tenesol.com Teihotua Ets. tel.: 42 00 36 VOLVO ET PENTA Solar panels, batteries, regulators, wind generators… Moteurs Lester-Petter. Nautisport Papeete / Taravao tel.: 50 59 59 Fishing and diving gears:. Uturoa Marine tel./fax: 60 02 35 Nautisport tel.: 66 35 83 Havai’i Sport sports and fishing tel.: 60 25 20 Yamaha, sail and maintenance. Raiatea Express tel.: 60 23 23 Magasin Tavita tel.: 42 99 71 Vanfau tel.: 43 80 62 Tahiti Nautic Center Taravao tel.: 54 76 16 [email protected] Tohatsu. WARTSILA Fishing gears, stainless steel nuts and bolts. Vongues Emile & fils tel.: 50 93 00 Chantier naval du Pacifique sud tel.: 50 52 70 Nautisport fishing and diving gears tel.: 50 59 59 Mariner. YAMAHA Nautisport fishing and diving gears tel.: 66 35 83 Chantier naval des îles (CNI) tel.: 66 10 10 Tahiti Plongée diving gears tel.: 41 00 62 Marine engines (by brand): Raiatea Express tel.: 60 23 23 APEX Uturoa Marine tel./fax: 60 02 35 Marine engines: Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 YANMAR ApiYachting tel.: 42 18 10 BAUDOUIN Sin Tung Hing Marine tel.: 54 94 54 Chantier naval des îles (CNI) tel.: 66 10 10 Sopom tel.: 42 99 69 Mercury,Yamaha. Sopomeca tel.: 50 87 00 Various services: Chantier naval du Pacifique sud tel.: 50 52 70 CATERPILLAR Boat Maintenance et services tel.: 74 95 60 Wartsila. Sodiva tel.: 50 87 00 [email protected] • watch keeping, transport, provisioning. Nautisport Papeete / Taravao tel.: 50 59 59 CUMMINGS MARINE Iaoranet tel.: 20 14 86 Nautisport tel.: 66 35 83 Océan 2000 Marine tel.: 83 83 93 Computer installation, maintenance and repair, laptop and Suzuki, Evinrude/Johnson,Volvo Penta, marine and electronic Sopomeca tel.: 50 87 00 desktop, network. On board computers, navigation software, chandlery… EVINRUDE ET JOHNSON NMEA networks. Océan 2000 Marine tel.: 83 83 93 Nautisport Papeete / Taravao tel.: 50 59 59 International express courier: Cummings Marine,Tohatsu. Nautisport tel.: 66 35 83 DHL tel.: 80 31 80 Polynésie Marine tel.: 58 47 47 Tahiti Nautic Center Taravao tel.: 54 76 16 Fed Ex (Global Air Cargo) tel.: 43 36 45 [email protected] MARINER UPS (J.A. Kowan & Fils) tel.: 54 57 00 Tohatsu outboard engines, Kipor and Honda portable and Vongues Emile & fils tel.: 50 93 00 Specialised custom’s broker: soundproof power generators, fishing gears… Sat Nui tel.: 50 43 00

Consular representation Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 27

Consular representation in Tahiti: United States, Mr. KOZELY,tel.: 426 535, Japan, Mr. FAUGERAT,tel.: 454 545 [email protected] , Mrs.WEINMANN, tel.: 429 994 Italia, Mrs. GROLLI, tel.: 434 501, Canada, Australia, Mr. SIU, tel.: 468 806, Ostrich, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, Mr. MAETZ, [email protected] [email protected] tel.: 439 114, [email protected] Norway, Mrs. SIU, tel.: 428 972, [email protected] Argentine, Bolivia, Brazil, Chili, Paraguay, Belgium, Mr. RAYNAL, tel.: 429 489 Pays Bas, Mr. DEN BREEJEN, tel.: 424 937, [email protected] Uruguay, Mrs. PASQUALETTO, tel.: 438 919, , Me GIRARD, tel.: 540 454 Sweden, Mr. SOLARI, tel.: 475 475, [email protected] Spain, Mr. LAO, tel.: 778 540 [email protected] , Mr. CHANG, tel.: 45 61 78 Finland, Mr. FOURCADE, tel.: 467 665 Israel, Mr. COHEN SOLAL, tel.: 424 100 Korea, Mr. BAUDRY,tel.: 436 475, [email protected] , Mr.ALLAIN, tel.: 706 382 New Zeland, Mrs. BOLE, tel.: 540 740

Nautical life Fishing, a Polynesian passion

BOTH THE OFFSHORE WATERS AND LAGOONS OF POLYNESIA ARE IDEALLY SUITED TO marara) and mahi mahi (it is pronounced [maï- ALL SORTS OF FISHING.BUT THE ENTIRE TERRITORY IS REGULATED IN ORDER TO maï]).The Polynesians do not hesitate to sail PROTECT FISHERY RESOURCES. alone hundred of kilometres on their boats that measure only 7.5 meters maximum. An ocean and lagoons hook or giant clams, the pahua, with a • Stake nets or traps for fishes are with incredible richness screwdriver); or also with a speargun (highly widespread in theTuamotu and in the From the pearl ofTahiti, with the magnificent appreciated species, the unicornfishes ume, the Leeward Islands.They usually represent more range of colors that made it famous, to the soldierfishes i’ihi and the fishes uhu are than 80% of a day’s catch.They are often mother-of-pearl and mother-of-pearl oyster caught with this technique. installed on the sides of the fairways or in the that the Polynesian artists and craftsmen craft • Net-fishing is a form of fishing with many channels between the motu. into artwork, you can admire a wide range of variations: gillnet or parava, where the fish is • The potting or fishing with -net, fa’a, is sealife in both the lagoons and deeper water jammed in the meshes of the net (the surgeon used to catch surgeonfish para’i, perch to’au, or offshore. Fish, crustaceans and other sea parrot fishes, goatfishes, runners); funnel net green crab ’upa’i. creatures are part of the traditional Polynesian that leads to a bow-net; surrounding net fa’a’ati diet. with little mesh or beach seine to catch ature, ouma and ina’a atTahiti and uhu raepu’u, marava, Resources to be protected mata anaana and nanue at theTuamotu, or net- Consumption: some good advice! The lagoons shelter very important sources of casting upe’a taora for young surmullets ouma, Most of the fishes caught in French Polynesia are food for the local population, but all the mullets aua or runners harehare that travel delicious and harmless, but you must be very careful resources are not exploited in the same way. along the beaches. with some fishes, such as Maito (the surgeon fish). Some species are more coveted, and • Line fishing is done in different ways: a hand- When preparing this fish, cut the sting that is at the therefore more threatened.The website of line with one or several fish hooks, hand-line back of its tail, which is very sharp: if there is blood, the the fishery office (> www.peche.pf) is quite fishing, trolling, bottom line, fishing with artificial fish is poisoned; if there is no blood, the fish is edible. detailed, containing a great deal of information decoys, fishing with natural bait, fishing with In regard to big fish, found in deep water, if you see about underwater fauna. living bait, fishing with lamparo, casting, etc. many flies, trying to land on it, your fish is good; Do not hesitate to drag a fishing line during likewise, give a piece of your fish to ants ashore and if Some techniques of fishing your crossing between the islands, mahi mahi, they eat it, you can do the same. Fishing has always been a favorite activity in albacore and yellowfin tuna, wahoo, are Be careful of the lagoon fish that can carry ciguatera. Polynesia.That is why techniques and the baits numerous. The big carnivores (groupers, runners, barracudas) are have been adapted specifically for catching In each archipelago, you can contact charter more frequently poisoned by this toxin and are specific types of fish or crustaceans. companies that propose excursions to go generally thrown back by fishermen in risk-prone areas. Here are some examples: fishing, including catching sailfish. For example, it is better to fish for orange and grey • The shellfish gathering, which is greatly • Harpooning on a poti marara is an triggerfish than the one which is completely grey. diversified, consists of the gathering of maoa experience that cannot be ignored! on the reef, fishing for crayfish by night with Ask a fisherman to go with him. It is a good Do not hesitate to ask the local fishermen lampara, fishing with a harpoon or knife on the chance to see a mahi mahi and to appreciate which fishes you can consume. reef, hand gathering of shellfishes, etc. its beautiful golden colors. The Polynesians know well their ocean and • Dive fishing can be done with bare hands The mahi mahi is a common dolphin-fish (that lagoons very well. (gathering of sea cucumbers, the rori for can weigh 40 kg) and a poti marara is a typical They have irreplaceable knowledge and example); with a tool (sea urchins, vana, with a Tahitian boat used for fishing flying fishes (the experience.

INFORMATIONS Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 29 Regulation (size and period of fishing): Respect the minimum size of capture CRUSTACEANS minimum size forbidden authorised on conditions Freshwater prawn 6 cm from Nov to Feb from Mar to Oct and release females that have eggs. Spiny lobster 14 cm from Nov to Jan from Feb to Oct Mud crab 14 cm from Nov to Jan from Feb to Oct Crayfish 14 cm from Nov to Jan from Feb to Oct Squill 14 cm from Nov to Jan from Feb to Oct MOLLUSCS minimum size forbidden Giant clam 12 cm Green snail and Trochus all the year FISH minimum size forbidden Tel.: 50 25 50 • Fax: 43 49 79 Perch 12 cm from Nov to Feb email : [email protected] • web site : www.peche.pf The Scorpion constellation and Te matau o Maui >

Nautical life The Polynesian heaven

THE POLYNESIANS HAVE AN ANCESTRAL KNOWLEDGE OF ASTRONOMY THAT IS VERY ADVANCED. THE MAOHI STARS AND CONSTELLATIONS ARE ORIGINAL,VIVID AND USED AS VERY PRECISE REFERENCES FOR NAVIGATION AS WELL AS FOR THE ORGANISATION OF EVERYDAY LIFE.

The has known many constellation that ancestral navigators pollution, French Polynesia is a top-notch migrations, by many different sailing people followed.The magic fish-hook supplies the place to observe the heavens. who interpreted the wind and the swell and islands (Te matau o Maui), the bird is a Can you imagine? mapped stellar ways and entire constellations. forerunner of an emerging land (Te Manu), On water,on a clear night... Today you can try to recognize them during and the kite that symbolizes the There is so much to do to see up above that your cruise. Many years ago, the Polynesians understanding between gods (Pipirima)... your long nights of navigation and acquired important knowledge of navigation They are the junction of Heaven and Earth. observation will be a pleasure! and also established a very detailed system of You can visit the travelling public planetarium astronomy.After years of training, the The story of the Pleiades (> www.proscience.pf/planet.pf). Conferences about navigators of yesteryear have memorized the The Pleiades (Matarii) were the guides of the stars and astronomy are organised track of each star,of its rising and its setting first European navigators and also marked the (> www.ciel.polynesien.free). The Society of relative to each isle, and the star that passed beginning of the year, in November.They were Astronomy of Tahiti offers evenings of at its zenith. In this way, they found their way used as an astronomical reference on a very astronomical observation.This society has a back to Ra’iatea (the Sacred isle), all the canoes large geographical area. permanent observatory at Faa’a at its disposal. went in the direction of Ta’urua hau papa, also At the three points of the Polynesian triangle, called Aa or Sirius, its zenith star, which is the the coincidence of rains and the appearance Some examples of constellations of the biggest and the brightest in the heavens. of Pleiades adjusted the cosmological clock on .The Northern the one of the traditional societies and hemisphere contains only 29 constellations Canoe fish-hook, birds: determined the cycle of activities (economic, compared to 47 for the Southern hemisphere the Polynesian constellations. religious, political) as well as the setting and and 12 zodiacal constellations.The Southern The Polynesian stars and constellations are lifting of royal taboos.The Pleiades seem to hemisphere contains moreover remarkable bound to myths.They appear like fishing or have symbolised the divine presence that objects, galaxies, nebulas, heap of stars, navigation tools (fishing net, fish-hook, canoe), bring abundance and that is liable to restrict it. supernovae, etc. fishes (the most frequent motif is the shark) • The Southern Cross and the Coal Sack; or birds, sometimes also heros, gods that look Particularly good conditions for • The Centaur constellation with the Proxima like humans or characters from folk legends. observation Centauri star, which is visible to the naked eye; Moko roa i ata refers to the Milky Way and a Beginning in the era of Captain Cook,Tahiti •The Large and the Small Magellanic Cloud; fish that insulted, killed and threw Tangaroa in has been selected several times for • Sirius, the brightest star of the sky; the sky.Almost all Polynesians see a Big Canoe astronomical expeditions aimed at observing •The False Cross; in the sky somewhere near the Pleiades. For cosmic phenomena, and the data was • The Scorpion constellation and its star Antarès, one Maoris, the middle of this canoe was the compared with contributions from other of the biggest known stars; the Scorpion’sTail has the Hyades, the Pleiades formed the bow and the stations in , ,America and Europe. Tahitian name Te Matau o Maui: the fish-hook of Orion’s belt was the back; Orion represented For example Cook came to Polynesia to Maui; a cable and the Southern Cross represented observe the transit ofVenus, a total solar • The Orion constellation and nebula, famous group of the anchor.According to others, it is the eclipse that was not well observed elsewhere. new stars; Scorpion’sTail which is the celestial canoe Because of the atmospheric conditions, its •The Pleiades (or Matarii: the small eyes) near the Bull which carries the firmament stars. It is this abundance of clear nights, and its minimal light constellation…

30 Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia To know more

At the Marquesas Islands, mixed observations: Source: “The month of April called napeka or nape’a Sirius that rise in May, June, July before the À la découverte du ciel polynésien, coincide with the stars referred to the same sunrise.The month of January, called Heua, written by Louis Cruchet, published by names that sign the Southern Cross. coincide with the star receiving the same name the Department of Education, This constellation rises, from February, after the (Antarès), which rises from November before the Centre of educational research and sunset.The months of May, June, July, respectively the sunset.Also in November,Aldebaran rises, documentation (CRDP) of French called mataiki, akeo, and taku’ua, coincide with but after the sunset and it is possible that the Polynesia. the stars referred to the same names that word ehua refers to this star (Aldebaran)”. correspond to the Pleiades, Betelgeuse and Thanks also to the ProScience association of Tahiti/TeTuru’Ihi and to Régis Plichart. Nautical life The nautical events

IN FRENCH POLYNESIA,THERE IS ALWAYS SOMETHING TO DO ON THE WATER. SURFING, A POLYNESIAN , SAILING IN A REGATTA, FISHING IN A CONTEST...THEY ARE MANY CHOICES.

The Tahiti Pearl Regatta [TPR], The Raiatea International Billfish Tournament The surfing competitions, held in the Leeward Islands, is an annual [RIBT] and the Billfish held here are often for professionals, but surf international regatta, which attracts sailors Tournament [TIBT], spots are accessible all the rest of the year: from Polynesia,America, Japan, New-Zealand, are real challenges between fishermen and big Billabong Pro, Taapuna Surf Pro AM... Australia, European or elsewhere. It is both a deep-sea fishes.This fishing competition Information: www.surf.pf series of race and a festive event which ends follows the IGFA rules, which contribute to in the Bora Bora lagoon. Sailors with any level the protection of the animals, which live in the And all the other things...! of expertise can participate aboard mono- seabed. Information: www.go-tahiti.com and The race of the sail canoes during the Heiva hulls or , because the various www.hauraclub-fishing-tahiti.com in July, the commemoration of the Bounty categories of classification enables everybody arrival, the discovery of whales in the Austral to try their luck.The alternation of races The va’a races, Islands or the Society Islands, the ature season within the lagoon and offshore offers a wide canoe racing, is the national sport, that offers miraculous fishing... range of unforgettable experiences. and the Polynesians are the best in the whole To get more information: Information: www.tahitipearlregatta.org.pf Pacific.There are races throughout the year. www.tahiti-tourisme.com The Hawaiki NuiVa’a is the supreme trial, www.papeeteonline.com Le Tahiti Moorea Sailing Rendezvous, with the Hinano CupVa’a, the Heemoana www.tahitiguide.com Refer to the poster inserted between pages Race, or the Super Aito. Information: www.fedetahitivoile.com 16-17. Information: www.portdepapeete.pf www.hawaikinuivaa.pf www.moanaevasion.pf

Nautical life Basic bibliography

TO BEGIN OR TO CONTINUE YOUR TRIP, MANY BOOKS CAN ENABLE YOU TO BROADEN YOUR KNOWLEDGE ABOUT FRENCH POLYNESIA.

Bounty Trilogy Ancient Tahiti - Frangipani - Tiare Written by Charles Nordhoff and James Documents and notes collected by Reverend 3 novels written by Célestine HitiuraVaite. Norman Hall. Little, Brown and Company. J. M. Orsmond, completed and published by Text Publishing Co. Teuira Henry; Bernice P.Bishop Museum. Typee:A Peep at Polynesian Life Guide to Navigation and Tourism in French Written by Hermann Melville, introduction An account of the Marquesas islands Polynesia and commentary by John Bryant. 1797-1799. (Marquesas,Tuamotu, Gambier, Societies - Tahiti, Classics. Written by William Pascoe Crook, with Australs) forewords by Greg Dening, H.-M. Le Cleac'h, Written by Patrick Bonnette and Emmanuel We, the Navigators:The Ancient Art of an editorial note, a short biography by Deschamps. A. Barthélémy and Le Motu. Landfinding in the Pacific Douglas Peacocke, a preliminary discourse by Written by David Lewis. University of Hawaii Samuel Greatheed. Haere Po. Guide des poissons de Tahiti et ses îles Press. [Tahiti and her islands fish guide] Teahupoo:Tahiti's Mythic Wave Photography and notes by Philippe Bacchet, Hokulea:The way to Tahiti Photography byTim Mc Kenna, written by Thierry Zysman etYves Lefèvre. Written by Benn R. Finney. Dodd, Mead. Guillaume Dufau. White Star Publishers. Au Vent des îles.

Coming soon Yachtsmen’s Guide to French Polynesia 31