Out of Somalia

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Andrea Caprez / Christoph Schuler OUT OF SOMALIA Dagahaley - A refugee camp in Kenya gardes_ARP.indd 3 08.03.12 13:53 Andrea Caprez / Christoph Schuler OUT OF SOMALIA Dagahaley - a refugee camp in Kenya MSF would like to thank David Basler / Edition Moderne www.editionmoderne.ch Fumetto – Festival International de la BD de Lucerne www.fumetto.ch And all the people in Dadaab and in Switzerland who supported this project.

MSF proofreaders 3

Natasha Lewer / Laurent Sauveur camp’s refugees. need for humanitarian aid, protection and 2 MSF would like to thank David Basler / Edition Moderne www.editionmoderne.ch Fumetto – Festival International de la BD de Lucerne www.fumetto.ch And all the people in Dadaab and in Switzerland who supported this project.

It is now 20 years since the three refugee In early 2011, we invited Swiss graphic dignity. It may be 20 years since the first Founded in 1971 by a group of camps of Dadaab – Dagahaley, Ifo and Ha- artist Andrea Caprez and writer Christoph wave of refugees arrived in Kenya, but the French doctors and journalists, Méde- gadera – were created. Set up in the north- Schuler to visit Dagahaley camp. This book emergency there is far from over. cins Sans Frontières/Doctors without eastern province of Kenya to provide assis- is the result. Out of Somalia is a first-person Médecins Sans Frontières Borders (MSF) is now an international tance and protection to large numbers of account of Caprez and Schuler’s visit to Da- 78, rue de Lausanne / CP 116 movement that provides emergency refugees fleeing the civil war in Somalia, the gahaley, as well as a record of the despe- 1211 Genève 21 / Suisse www.msf.ch medical care to populations in distress, camps had space for up to 90,000 people. rate situation of the refugees in the camps CCP 12-100-2 irrespective of their race, religion or po- and the daily struggle of our teams to pro- Dr Monica Rull litical views, in more than 60 countries When fighting flared up again in Somalia vide them with medical care. MSF Programme Manager around the world. In 1999, the organi- in 2006, people once more began to lea- for Somalia and Kenya sation received the Nobel Peace Prize. ve the country in huge numbers, in a bid We hope that this book will give people to escape violence, repression and hunger. a glimpse of what life is like for the inhabi- Many of them headed for Dadaab, which tants of Dadaab, and of the challenges of © 2012 Caprez / Schuler has today become the biggest refugee living and working in such a place. We also ISBN 978-2-8399-1039-2 camp in the world, housing close to half a hope it will encourage people to reflect on First edition million people. the plight of refugees from Somalia, and Printed and bound in May 2012 by Atar Roto Presse SA, Geneva, Switzerland how the refugee situation has been ma- Legal deposit May 2012 MSF started working in Dadaab when naged over the past two decades. MSF project manager the refugee crisis began in 1992. For the Julien Rey / Daniela Hobi past three years, we have run a hospital MSF is committed to continue working Graphic design Camille Decrey and a number of health posts in Daga- in Dadaab, and to speaking out about the MSF proofreaders haley camp, providing medical care to the refugees’ dire living conditions and their Natasha Lewer / Laurent Sauveur camp’s refugees. need for humanitarian aid, protection and the campsinfirst sixmonths of2011. Dadaab, withnearly200,000arrivingat made thelonganddangerousjourneyto drought intensifying,manymorerefugees With fighting on the increase, and the situation inSomaliadeterioratedrapidly. has gotagreatdealworse. Since then,analreadyalarmingsituation prez andChristophSchulervisitedDadaab. are asofFebruary2011,whenAndreaCa FOREWORD In the months following their visit, the The factsandfigurescitedinthisbook - the camps, two of our staff were kidnap riorating securitysituationinandaround of measlesandcholera. the camps’outskirts,aswelloutbreaks new arrivals,especiallythosesettlingon high ratesofmalnutritionamongstthe as theystruggledtodealwithextremely some ofthenewarrivals. new siteswereopenedtoaccommodate With no space left in the existing camps, In October2011,amidstarapidlydete MSF teamswerestretched to theirlimits - - ture withlittlehopeofescape. in deplorable conditions and facing a fu with almosthalfamillionrefugeesliving camp, wherethekidnappingtookplace. forced tostopactivitiesinthenewIfo2 health postsinDagahaleycamp,butwas MSF continuedtorunitshospitalandfour assistance inthecampswasscaleddown. refugees washaltedandhumanitarian all officialregistrationofnewlyarrived ped fromDadaab.Inthedaysfollowing, Today, thesituationremainsdesperate, -

4 | 5 FOREWORD The facts and figures cited in this book With no space left in the existing camps, ped from Dadaab. In the days following, are as of February 2011, when Andrea Ca- new sites were opened to accommodate all official registration of newly arrived prez and Christoph Schuler visited Dadaab. some of the new arrivals. refugees was halted and humanitarian Since then, an already alarming situation MSF teams were stretched to their limits assistance in the camps was scaled down. has got a great deal worse. as they struggled to deal with extremely MSF continued to run its hospital and four In the months following their visit, the high rates of malnutrition amongst the health posts in Dagahaley camp, but was situation in Somalia deteriorated rapidly. new arrivals, especially those settling on forced to stop activities in the new Ifo 2 With fighting on the increase, and the the camps’ outskirts, as well as outbreaks camp, where the kidnapping took place. drought intensifying, many more refugees of measles and cholera. Today, the situation remains desperate, made the long and dangerous journey to In October 2011, amidst a rapidly dete- with almost half a million refugees living Dadaab, with nearly 200,000 arriving at riorating security situation in and around in deplorable conditions and facing a fu- the camps in the first six months of 2011. the camps, two of our staff were kidnap- ture with little hope of escape.

DAGAHALEY Housing more than 300 000 people, Seen from above, the scale of Dagahaley Dagahaley camp has long been full, yet the three camps located near the Kenyan refugee camp is impressive. The ochre- new families arrive every day. On some town of Dadaab – Dagahaley, Ifo and coloured houses and huts of the families, days five families arrive, on other days Hagadera – make up the country’s third mainly Somalis, who fled here 10 or even 10 or 20. In February alone, 10,000 largest population centre and the world’s 20 years ago, can just about be counted new refugees arrived, fleeing Somalia’s largest refugee camp. But instead of the from the water tower, but the tents of drought and violent conflict. They car alarms of other Kenyan towns, in the the new arrivals, nestled far away on the have no choice but to build and take up camps one hears the braying of donkeys horizon, form an endless, brilliant white residence in provisional huts on the outer and the laughter of children at play. expanse. borders of the camp. DAGAHALEY Housing more than 300 000 people, Seen from above, the scale of Dagahaley Dagahaley camp has long been full, yet the three camps located near the Kenyan refugee camp is impressive. The ochre- new families arrive every day. On some town of Dadaab – Dagahaley, Ifo and coloured houses and huts of the families, days five families arrive, on other days Hagadera – make up the country’s third mainly Somalis, who fled here 10 or even 10 or 20. In February alone, 10,000 largest population centre and the world’s 20 years ago, can just about be counted new refugees arrived, fleeing Somalia’s largest refugee camp. But instead of the from the water tower, but the tents of drought and violent conflict. They car alarms of other Kenyan towns, in the the new arrivals, nestled far away on the have no choice but to build and take up camps one hears the braying of donkeys horizon, form an endless, brilliant white residence in provisional huts on the outer and the laughter of children at play. expanse. borders of the camp. have any cash to pay for goods the they buy. There isone difference though. Most refugees do not more can bought be market, at the like anywhere else. dishes, textiles, radios, donkeys, used cars much and cityport of Kismayo. Mobile phones, goats, mattresses, of sorts goodsAll here southern fromSomali the arrive woven fences. they can barely thickly seen the be behind sense of proportion shape. and Unfortunately, houses, which were agreat formed with here longer have built themselves mud-walled Some families of the who have living been

10 | 11 All sorts of goods arrive here from the southern Somali Some of the families who have been living port city of Kismayo. Mobile phones, goats, mattresses, here longer have built themselves mud-walled dishes, textiles, radios, donkeys, used cars and much houses, which were formed with a great more can be bought at the market, like anywhere else. sense of proportion and shape. Unfortunately, There is one difference though. Most refugees do not they can barely be seen behind the thickly have any cash to pay for the goods they buy. woven fences. spindly leaves. huddle sparse shade the in of with atree three-year-old athree-month-old and baby, Somalia. children, their His and wife a sions managed he from him to bring with spreading out dust few the the in posses later when we come across ayoung man 26 neware families, we as out hour find an backor the of in trucks. Nine? No, there previous desert the night, arid the on foot having after madearrive way their through day February, this in On families nine LS VA I R AR NEW - together… branchesThe bent are towards centre the bound and some wood. It doesn’t take long to build ahut –provided you have branches inserted. are You by start making holes ground, the into in which thin maize sacks. …and covered then cloth, with plastic bags, empty and

12 | 13 NEW AR R I VA LS On this day in February, nine families arrive after having made their way through the arid desert the previous night, on foot or in the back of trucks. Nine? No, there are 26 new families, as we find out an hour later when we come across a young man spreading out in the dust the few posses- It doesn’t take long to build a hut – provided you have You start by making holes in the ground, into which thin sions he managed to bring with him from some wood. branches are inserted. Somalia. His wife and their children, a three-year-old and a three-month-old baby, huddle in the sparse shade of a tree with spindly leaves.

The branches are bent towards the centre and bound …and then covered with cloth, plastic bags, and empty together… maize sacks. A teenager in a dusty T-shirt complains that there may be The dust is everywhere; it settles on huts, clothing and faces, and the wind water in the camp, but it is nowhere near enough for him to constantly blows new dust clouds across the desert. An elderly man tells us that wash himself and his clothes regularly. He is ashamed to many people in Somalia would love to come here, but cannot scrape together the stand before us in dirty clothes, he tells us bitterly; this is small amount of money refugees have to pay for petrol and food to keep them not what he is used to. going on the journey. A teenager in a dusty T-shirt complains that there may be The dust is everywhere; it settles on huts, clothing and faces, and the wind water in the camp, but it is nowhere near enough for him to constantly blows new dust clouds across the desert. An elderly man tells us that wash himself and his clothes regularly. He is ashamed to many people in Somalia would love to come here, but cannot scrape together the stand before us in dirty clothes, he tells us bitterly; this is small amount of money refugees have to pay for petrol and food to keep them not what he is used to. going on the journey. to-be-completed post –awalk-in health clinic for newly refugees, by arrived Médecins run Sans Frontières. for moment the she ishappy to have refugee at camp, the arrived especially hut sight their as iswithin of asoon- to leave there and city, the says mother. the to Somalia, As soon peace returns as she would like to go back, but weeksthree ago. house their After was repeatedly shot at aneighbouring and family was they decided killed, then family,This amother, two daughters five and sons father –the has just gone market to the from Mogadishu –fled continue to increase. ofstream refugees continues unfortunately –and everything indicates workload –the that it posts will will health the in constructionThe post of 8isproceeding health rapidly, keenly observed by neighbours, the of them new all the arrivals. If

16 | 17 The construction of health post 8 is proceeding rapidly, keenly observed by the neighbours, all of them new arrivals. If the stream of refugees continues – and unfortunately everything indicates that it will – the workload in the health posts will continue to increase.

This family, a mother, two daughters and five sons – the father has just gone to the market – fled from Mogadishu three weeks ago. After their house was repeatedly shot at and a neighbouring family was killed, they decided then and there to leave the city, says the mother. As soon as peace returns to Somalia, she would like to go back, but for the moment she is happy to have arrived at the refugee camp, especially as their hut is within sight of a soon- to-be-completed health post – a walk-in clinic for newly arrived refugees, run by Médecins Sans Frontières. blocked by authorities. the 2 camp, whose opening isstill recently-completedhere isthe Ifo new arrivals. yet, And not far from what ismost lacking isspace for refugeesthe but today, contrast, in was providing medical care for working biggest here, the priority lains that 1992, in when started he nicler, rolled all into one. He exp photographers, chro talented and children, preferred model of press long-settled refugees, to friend person for newly both and arrived organisation, watchmen, contact medical aid humanitarian the and mediator between refugees the – assistant of MSF’s field coordinator knows everyone. local He isthe Everyone knows Abu Abu and - - health problems. health to bring attention his to anewly family arrived with help. it time isacommunity This worker who wants Abu isapproached every few minutes for advice or can hardly breathe. Rukiyah, mother 10-strong of the the family, A rasping cough from isheard inside tent. the

18 | 19 Everyone knows Abu and Abu knows everyone. He is the local assistant of MSF’s field coordinator – mediator between the refugees and the medical humanitarian aid organisation, watchmen, contact person for both newly arrived and long-settled refugees, friend to children, preferred model of press A rasping cough is heard from inside the tent. photographers, and talented chronicler, all rolled into one. He explains that in 1992, when he started working here, the biggest priority was providing medical care for the refugees but today, in contrast, what is most lacking is space for new arrivals. And yet, not far from here is the recently-completed Ifo Abu is approached every few minutes for advice or 2 camp, whose opening is still help. This time it is a community worker who wants blocked by the authorities. to bring his attention to a newly arrived family with health problems.

Rukiyah, the mother of the 10-strong family, can hardly breathe. Half an hourHalf an later… Abu decides to drive mother and… the …six of her children to MSF’s hospital. …they emergency the in are unit. they have of leaving camp the behind. such a“resettlement” –since only it isthe possibility or even abroad treated. to be Many refugees of dream she taken to be needs tomean ahospital Nairobi in toappears have aproblem which her heart, with may mother isexamined. Fariya, who is12 years old, wait patiently shadow the in of acanopy while their Fariya, Muhamad, Mangas, Aden, Arfi, Habiba and

20 | 21 Abu decides to drive the mother and… …six of her children to MSF’s hospital.

Fariya, Muhamad, Mangas, Arfi, Aden, and Habiba wait patiently in the shadow of a canopy while their mother is examined. Fariya, who is 12 years old, appears to have a problem with her heart, which may mean she needs to be taken to a hospital in Nairobi or even abroad to be treated. Many refugees dream of such a “resettlement” – since it is the only possibility they have of leaving the camp behind.

Half an hour later… …they are in the emergency unit. small children being are vaccinated. over or children. breastfeed their small fires At one outdoor table, beside children’s the ward, Relatives of patients sit together groups in spacious the in grounds hospital; of the some cook HOSPITAL THE these peoplethese have blows just escaped bullets from rifle the and of marauding militias. gas hissing flame autoclaves under the steriliser building. the in It ishard to imagine that some of hospitalThe cook firewood iscarrying into hut his so can he make porridge, you and can the hear

22 | 23 THE HOSPITAL Relatives of patients sit together in groups in the spacious grounds of the hospital; some cook The hospital cook is carrying firewood into his hut so he can make porridge, and you can hear the over small fires or breastfeed their children. At one outdoor table, beside the children’s ward, gas flame hissing under the autoclaves in the steriliser building. It is hard to imagine that some of small children are being vaccinated. these people have just escaped from the bullets and rifle blows of marauding militias. Fatima and Mohamed have been here for Chris, the man in the white T-shirt, in charge of the ward for malnourished children, three days already. Dr James, head of the is also writing on the side, mostly poetry. However, he and his colleagues spend children’s ward, says that many children in most of their time taking care of their small patients. The children who are in a bad Dagahaley suffer from breathing difficulties state are fed with ready-to-use therapeutic food until they reach a normal weight. because the air here is always filled with Chris’ girlfriend left him when he decided to go and work in Dagahaley for a year. fine dust. He has been working here for “I’m a man with a vision,” he says. “I’m married to my work.” six weeks. Before that he was in Ethiopia, running a private medical training project, in Sudan and in various Asian and South American countries working as a doctor. After talking to him, we discover that James is doing some writing as well. He has already published a book about his experiences in Sudan with MSF. Fatima and Mohamed have been here for Chris, the man in the white T-shirt, in charge of the ward for malnourished children, three days already. Dr James, head of the is also writing on the side, mostly poetry. However, he and his colleagues spend children’s ward, says that many children in most of their time taking care of their small patients. The children who are in a bad Dagahaley suffer from breathing difficulties state are fed with ready-to-use therapeutic food until they reach a normal weight. because the air here is always filled with Chris’ girlfriend left him when he decided to go and work in Dagahaley for a year. fine dust. He has been working here for “I’m a man with a vision,” he says. “I’m married to my work.” six weeks. Before that he was in Ethiopia, running a private medical training project, in Sudan and in various Asian and South American countries working as a doctor. After talking to him, we discover that James is doing some writing as well. He has already published a book about his experiences in Sudan with MSF. Mohamed was trained as a surgeon in Uganda. He is now 30 and director of MSF’s hospital in Dagahaley. It’s a position that brings as much paperwork as it does deep satisfaction, he says. Lately, specialists have been coming here: a dentist and an ophthalmo- logist visited recently for the first time. The eye specialist performed surgery in the hospital, treating 200 cataract cases in a short time. The challenges of working in Dadaab can lead to debates with the international staff, who come from all over the world to work here with MSF for six months at a time. But this is not a problem for Mohamed – on the contrary. “They often come with good ideas and lots of ener- gy,” he says. With this, he hurries on to a meeting in the maternity ward.

For the past year, the hospital has had a new operating room where a team of specialists carry out emergency surgery. Josiah, the doctor in charge, explains that he has already performed all sorts of operations, though not cranial or open-chest surgery. Mohamed was trained as a surgeon in Uganda. He is now 30 and director of MSF’s hospital in Dagahaley. It’s a position that brings as much paperwork as it does deep satisfaction, he says. Lately, specialists have been coming here: a dentist and an ophthalmo- logist visited recently for the first time. The eye specialist performed surgery in the hospital, treating 200 cataract cases in a short time. The challenges of working in Dadaab can lead to debates with the international staff, who come from all over the world to work here with MSF for six months at a time. But this is not a problem for Mohamed – on the contrary. “They often come with good ideas and lots of ener- gy,” he says. With this, he hurries on to a meeting in the maternity ward.

For the past year, the hospital has had a new operating room where a team of specialists carry out emergency surgery. Josiah, the doctor in charge, explains that he has already performed all sorts of operations, though not cranial or open-chest surgery. A spot in the shade outside for patients’ relatives is just as scarce as a free bed in the The maternity ward is bursting at the seams. The space in the centre of the ward should be kept maternity ward. The doorman has his hands full trying to ensure that only one companion free, but the demand for beds is so great that extra beds have been set up there. Astonishingly, you is admitted for each expectant mother, as per his instructions. don’t hear the screams of children, just the hushed conversations of the mothers. A spot in the shade outside for patients’ relatives is just as scarce as a free bed in the The maternity ward is bursting at the seams. The space in the centre of the ward should be kept maternity ward. The doorman has his hands full trying to ensure that only one companion free, but the demand for beds is so great that extra beds have been set up there. Astonishingly, you is admitted for each expectant mother, as per his instructions. don’t hear the screams of children, just the hushed conversations of the mothers. can have fatal consequences. complications home that with births birth, because are too often there all mothers came hospital to the to give It would ideal, be she adds, all if cent done by are caesarean section. moment,at the about and five per per day around births 20 are there of newly refugees, arrived she says study for it. Because number of the doctor but she can’t yet to afford visor. She would like to become a Sahara is24, anurse super and - - Sadia, 23, midwife: “Among other things we encourage… …to children breastfeed their for long as possible… as …instead of giving them goats’ milk.” …the young mothers… young …the

30 | 31 Sahara is 24, a nurse and super- visor. She would like to become a doctor but she can’t yet afford to study for it. Because of the number of newly arrived refugees, she says there are around 20 births per day Sadia, 23, midwife: “Among other things we encourage… …the young mothers… at the moment, and about five per- cent are done by caesarean section. It would be ideal, she adds, if all mothers came to the hospital to give birth, because all too often there are complications with home births that can have fatal consequences.

…to breastfeed their children for as long as possible… …instead of giving them goats’ milk.” more than doublemore than that figure. posts whereBut near new health settling, the the are in arrivals it is planning. Around adults children 40 30 come and here each day. vaccinated. then and Adults given are information on family also weighedare to check malnourished they measured and if are treatment of minor injuries. Small children neighbourhood from the just more posts than are outpatient health The clinics for the PATIENTSEXTERNAL

of psychotropic drugs. psychotropic of quantity also asurprising and drugs essential supplements, which includes nutritional rangehis of medical supplies, old. pharmacist The shows us meeting place for young and cool, therefore afavourite concrete –nice floors and building of brick walls and by MSF last year, it isnow a completely Rebuilt Dagahaley. oldestpost 5isthe in Established 1992, in health

32 | 33 EXTERNAL PATIENTS The health posts are more than just outpatient clinics for the Established in 1992, health treatment of minor injuries. Small children from the neighbourhood post 5 is the oldest in are also weighed and measured to check if they are malnourished Dagahaley. Rebuilt completely and then vaccinated. Adults are given information on family by MSF last year, it is now a planning. Around 40 adults and 30 children come here each day. building of brick walls and But in the health posts near where the new arrivals are settling, it is concrete floors – nice and more than double that figure. cool, therefore a favourite meeting place for young and old. The pharmacist shows us his range of medical supplies, which includes nutritional supplements, essential drugs and also a surprising quantity of psychotropic drugs. Paula, a psychiatrist from Brazil, currently looks after the psychological Abdurrahman, 25, lives in a padlocked hut that his family wellbeing of the refugees with her staff of local assistants. This is her built for him in their yard. The mother says her son, the second second stint working in Dagahaley. She works in a consultation room in youngest of nine children, stopped speaking at the age of 12. one of the health posts and also visits patients in their homes. Often the She says it is probably God’s will that he became like this. If patients suffering from psychological disorders are locked up by their he was not locked up, she tells us, he would go to the market families, and sometimes their feet are shackled to prevent them from and bite people, as he has done before. running away. Paula, a psychiatrist from Brazil, currently looks after the psychological Abdurrahman, 25, lives in a padlocked hut that his family wellbeing of the refugees with her staff of local assistants. This is her built for him in their yard. The mother says her son, the second second stint working in Dagahaley. She works in a consultation room in youngest of nine children, stopped speaking at the age of 12. one of the health posts and also visits patients in their homes. Often the She says it is probably God’s will that he became like this. If patients suffering from psychological disorders are locked up by their he was not locked up, she tells us, he would go to the market families, and sometimes their feet are shackled to prevent them from and bite people, as he has done before. running away. To gain an overview of the crowd at the measles vaccination programme, the illustrator climbs a tree, while the writer tries to find the translator among agitated mothers and screaming children.

At Paula’s request, Abdurrahman is let out into the yard. She seems to have a good rapport with him,

because after a short tussle with us, the unknown visitors, he sits down beside her,

meek as a lamb, and even speaks a few words to her. To gain an overview of the crowd at the measles vaccination programme, the illustrator climbs a tree, while the writer tries to find the translator among agitated mothers and screaming children.

At Paula’s request, Abdurrahman is let out into the yard. She seems to have a good rapport with him,

because after a short tussle with us, the unknown visitors, he sits down beside her,

meek as a lamb, and even speaks a few words to her. lush green. lush Somalithe desert,incredibly isan landscape which, for nomads from fatherthe child marvel his and at the hospital Nairobi. in But before that, able be they will to help the in him cause cartilage to thicken. He hopes osteochondritis, illness which an can to papers, his boy the from suffers sonOmar his and Abdi. According We back driving are to Nairobi with NAIROBI EASTLEIGH,

motorway. lane road dirt intoeight-lane an busy extending rough, the two- constructionand machinery are Nairobi. Chinese-lettered lorries you of come 100km within soon as as increases traffic The

38 | 39 EASTLEIGH, NAIROBI We are driving back to Nairobi with The traffic increases as soon as Omar and his son Abdi. According you come within 100 km of to his papers, the boy suffers from Nairobi. Chinese-lettered lorries osteochondritis, an illness which can and construction machinery are cause cartilage to thicken. He hopes busy extending the rough, two- they will be able to help him in the lane dirt road into an eight-lane hospital in Nairobi. But before that, motorway. the father and his child marvel at the landscape which, for nomads from the Somali desert, is an incredibly lush green. Eastleigh, a district east of the centre of Nairobi, is populated almost exclusively by Somalis. MSF runs two clinics in Eastleigh, one for survivors of sexual violence and a There are now more than 100,000 Somalis here, many running countless little shops where they second, called the Blue House, for HIV and tuberculosis patients. Tuberculosis trade clothes, electronics, household goods from Asia and religious items. is very widespread, since often 20 or 30 malnourished people live together in an extremely confined space. Bashir works as a nurse in the tuberculosis department and, along with nurse Amina, acts as a translator and community networker. They are out in the neighbourhood nearly every day and give out information about MSF’s services. Eastleigh, a district east of the centre of Nairobi, is populated almost exclusively by Somalis. MSF runs two clinics in Eastleigh, one for survivors of sexual violence and a There are now more than 100,000 Somalis here, many running countless little shops where they second, called the Blue House, for HIV and tuberculosis patients. Tuberculosis trade clothes, electronics, household goods from Asia and religious items. is very widespread, since often 20 or 30 malnourished people live together in an extremely confined space. Bashir works as a nurse in the tuberculosis department and, along with nurse Amina, acts as a translator and community networker. They are out in the neighbourhood nearly every day and give out information about MSF’s services. says that many of addicted them are to drugs HIV-positive. and obtaining agood job, only themselves to find forced to work clubs in bars. and Mama Lulu especially those who were lured refugee from camps the by pretext traffickers under of the Eastleigh. She organises language lessons provides and education information and to refugees, Mama Lulu manages independent an open house for refugee women who stranded are in helps them get by Nairobi. in operations or illnesses, or simply clinicsthem find for specific Refugee Agency (UNHCR), helps register United the Nations with helps newly Somalis arrived Relief Organisation (SOCRA) Somalis. for or him for any other of the Kenya. But isno going there back, ajob finding in great difficulty He has isajournalist and had livingbeen here for some time. Abdullahi isarefugee who has The SomaliaThe Community and

42 | 43 Mama Lulu manages an independent open house for refugee women who are stranded in Eastleigh. She organises language lessons and provides education and information to refugees, especially those who were lured from the refugee camps by traffickers under the pretext of obtaining a good job, only to find themselves forced to work in clubs and bars. Mama Lulu says that many of them are addicted to drugs and HIV-positive.

The Somalia Community and Relief Organisation (SOCRA) helps newly arrived Somalis register with the United Nations Refugee Agency (UNHCR), helps them find clinics for specific operations or illnesses, or simply helps them get by in Nairobi. Abdullahi is a refugee who has been living here for some time. He is a journalist and has had great difficulty finding a job in Kenya. But there is no going back, for him or for any of the other Somalis. DIARY DIARY extreme than anything we’ve seen before. extreme thananything we’veseenbefore. Somalia isboundtobeagreat dealmore ning, butwhatawaitsusonthe borderwith in theworldthatweremoreor lessentertai written illustratedreportages aboutplaces True, Andreaand Ihavealreadydrawnand medium atallfortakingupsuchtopics? name soundssoinappropriate,theright or tacky? Is comics journalism, whose very luntarily coming off as comical, superficial form of“comicsjournalism”,withoutinvo can anyoneconveysomuchtragedyinthe arduous escapesthroughthedesert.How vaged byillnessanddeprivation,storiesof children, desperateparents,peoplera articles andwatchedvideosonthesubject. through MSFdocuments,readnewspaper selves indepthaboutthecamp,ploughed few daysandweekswehaveinformedour Dagahaley refugeecamp.Overthepast Nairobi andtalkaboutwhatawaitsusin on thebalconyofMSFguesthousein companying usforthenexttwoweeks, tions officerfromGenevawhowillbeac We expecttoseemisery, dust,hungry We sitwithJulien,MSF’s communica 20 February,Nairobi ------

well withourmood. tion ofanIbsendrama,whichfitsinvery and lookslikeasetformodernproduc house is “walled” with lengths of burlap The façadeofthecourtyardguest - how wewillbetravellingtoDagahaley Spanish expertonSomalia,whotellsus the Dutchheadofmission,andDavid,a luxuriant garden,wearereceivedbyJoke, of Englishcountryhousesurroundedbya At MSF’s headquartersinKenya,akind 21 February,Nairobi standing, ready tobringthepassengers vehicles ofvariousaidorganisations are dusty runway, on theedgeofwhich takes a little over one hour. We land on a the MSFpeopletendtouse. field”, thesomewhatmilitaryexpression even knowwhatwewanttodo? want todo.”That’s nicetohear, butdowe “We trustyoucompletely, justdowhatyou how wework?Whenask,aretold from allsides,butisnotatinlinewith Photographer”, whichisreceivingpraise the styleofGuibert’s graphicnovel“The fugees inKenya?Anambitioushistory MSF pamphletonthesubjectofSomalire exactly isexpectedofus?Anillustrated but also find somewhat unsettling.What cumstances, whichwearehappytohear, the refugee camps andtherefugees’cir ability toadequatelyportrayMSF’s workin They seemtohavecompletefaithinour history ofSomaliaandtherefugeecamp. and informsinstructsusaboutthe The flighttotheDadaabrefugee camps Tomorrow it’s off toDagahaley, “tothe 22 February,Dagahaley - - ged andbumpysandytrack. MSF compound in Dagahaley, overarug the respectivecamps;wearedrivento here. Betweenthehutsthere arecommu the dinner, sinceseatsareatapremium a chair, whichhastobetakenalong for with abedandmosquitonet, atableand and theMSFflagflutteringinwind. can seehighwallsfortifiedbybarbedwire the edgeofSahara.Fromadistanceone reminds usofafortintheWildWest oron we willbelivingforthenextfewdays,it nal showersand toiletsandawashhouse. Our lodgingsconsistofone huteach When wearriveatthecompound,where - - and takingphotographs. rywhere, whilewalking,eating,showering that crunchingisalwaystobeheardeve peded. We quicklygetusedtothefact the sandtopenetrateeverycrackunim- the aircirculatepleasantly, but alsoallows in placeofwindowpanes,whichhelps prevailing dustygray–havewirescreens ly painted,inavainstruggleagainstthe child’s intestines. cm longiscoiled;ithadbeen takenfroma bottle aroundinwhichaworm atleast20 ded withmedicalterms.Someone passesa understand thembecause they areloa- make notes on the talks, but I can hardly there withafewquickstrokes,Itryto night andplanthepresentday. they sumuptheeventsofpastdayand held inahalf-openbungalow, inwhich morning meetings ofthe medical staff are tal, whichistenminutesawaybycar. The tors, midwivesandnursestothehospi The huts–someofwhicharepretti Andrea sketchesthefacesofpeople Early inthemorningwedrivewithdoc 23 February,Dagahaley - - - -

46 | 47 20 February, Nairobi The façade of the courtyard of the guest 21 February, Nairobi and informs and instructs us about the The huts – some of which are pretti- We sit with Julien, MSF’s communica- house is “walled” with lengths of burlap At MSF’s headquarters in Kenya, a kind history of Somalia and the refugee camp. ly painted, in a vain struggle against the tions officer from Geneva who will be ac- and looks like a set for a modern produc- of English country house surrounded by a They seem to have complete faith in our prevailing dusty gray– have wire screens companying us for the next two weeks, tion of an Ibsen drama, which fits in very luxuriant garden, we are received by Joke, ability to adequately portray MSF’s work in in place of window panes, which helps on the balcony of the MSF guest house in well with our mood. the Dutch head of mission, and David, a the refugee camps and the refugees’ cir- the air circulate pleasantly, but also allows Nairobi and talk about what awaits us in Spanish expert on Somalia, who tells us cumstances, which we are happy to hear, the sand to penetrate every crack unim- Dagahaley refugee camp. Over the past how we will be travelling to Dagahaley but also find somewhat unsettling. What peded. We quickly get used to the fact few days and weeks we have informed our- exactly is expected of us? An illustrated that crunching is always to be heard eve- selves in depth about the camp, ploughed MSF pamphlet on the subject of Somali re- rywhere, while walking, eating, showering through MSF documents, read newspaper fugees in Kenya? An ambitious history in and taking photographs. articles and watched videos on the subject. the style of Guibert’s graphic novel “The Photographer”, which is receiving praise the respective camps; we are driven to the 23 February, Dagahaley We expect to see misery, dust, hungry from all sides, but is not at all in line with MSF compound in Dagahaley, over a rug- Early in the morning we drive with doc- children, desperate parents, people ra- how we work? When we ask, we are told ged and bumpy sandy track. tors, midwives and nurses to the hospi- vaged by illness and deprivation, stories of “We trust you completely, just do what you tal, which is ten minutes away by car. The arduous escapes through the desert. How want to do.” That’s nice to hear, but do we When we arrive at the compound, where morning meetings of the medical staff are can anyone convey so much tragedy in the even know what we want to do? we will be living for the next few days, it held in a half-open bungalow, in which form of “comics journalism”, without invo- reminds us of a fort in the Wild West or on they sum up the events of the past day and luntarily coming off as comical, superficial Tomorrow it’s off to Dagahaley, “to the the edge of the Sahara. From a distance one night and plan the present day. or tacky? Is comics journalism, whose very field”, the somewhat military expression can see high walls fortified by barbed wire name sounds so inappropriate, the right the MSF people tend to use. and the MSF flag fluttering in the wind. Andrea sketches the faces of the people medium at all for taking up such topics? there with a few quick strokes, I try to True, Andrea and I have already drawn and 22 February, Dagahaley Our lodgings consist of one hut each make notes on the talks, but I can hardly written illustrated reportages about places The flight to the Dadaab refugee camps with a bed and mosquito net, a table and understand them because they are loa- in the world that were more or less entertai- takes a little over one hour. We land on a a chair, which has to be taken along for ded with medical terms. Someone passes a ning, but what awaits us on the border with dusty runway, on the edge of which the the dinner, since seats are at a premium bottle around in which a worm at least 20 Somalia is bound to be a great deal more vehicles of various aid organisations are here. Between the huts there are commu- cm long is coiled; it had been taken from a extreme than anything we’ve seen before. standing, ready to bring the passengers to nal showers and toilets and a washhouse. child’s intestines. three smallrooms thatmakeupthemater leads usthroughtheone large andthe ceiling. SaharaMohamed,the headnurse, slowly rotatingventilatorshang fromthe IV dripsarefastened,bareneon tubesand space towhichgreenmosquito netsand cover the beds, cords run through the open In thematernityward,colourfulcloths - draw; laterweareevenallowedtotakepic uninterruptedly bombardedfromallsides. information, eventhoughsheisbeing nity ward,andpatientlyprovidesuswith away with his impressive looking camera to be just what they need. Julien snaps tell their stories, the change in pace seems of their children.Thewomenareeagerto their personalhistoriesand theillnesses their bedsandarekindof bored,about speak tothemothers,whoaresittingon incorruptible doorkeepersintotheward. repeatedly trytopushtheirwaypastthe even thoughtherearefamilymemberswho are nottoleratedinthematernityward pass as“neutrals”,doctors?Infact,men we arewearingMSFshirts,andthuscan sence isacceptedwithequanimity. Because man Ifeeloutofplacehere,butourpre with anewbornbabyatherbreast.As waiting forherdelivery, theotheralready ter; they seem to be so engrossed; the one thers throughMohammed,ourinterpre tures. Idon’t dare approach any of the mo- Andrea is allowed to sit in a corner and Andrea isallowedtositinacornerand In thepaediatricward,Ifinditeasierto - - - wish tobereminded. to afardistantpast,ofwhich theydonot about theirflight,asthough itbelonged not saymorethantwoorthree sentences less willingtospeakabout them. Theydo not liketorememberthese things andare abuses byarmedmaraudersofallkinds,do tual flight from Somalia, the threats and it thisfarandsurvivedtheworst,ieac the fact that the people who have made thought theywould.Thisisalsodueto nifest themselvesasclearlywehad dy battlesformealsandtents. of thirst at theroadside, there areno bloo desperate searchforfood.Nooneisdying on therelieforganisations’vehiclesina masses ofpeoplewhothrowthemselves expected worse.Therearenoscreaming really turned out to be? Actually, we had in ourwork. pective; photos that will be of great help from everypossibleandimpossiblepers children here–takingpicturesnon-stop thelensaloneisbiggerthanmostof – The horrorsofrefugeelifedonotma Had we visualised the refugee camp as it - - - - camp. Thecrowdwasespeciallylarge the basicmedicalcareinrefugee just builtoutofboards,whichprovide simple buildings, some with walls, some We visitsomeoftheeighthealthposts: 24 February,Dagahaley dehydration. fering fromdiarrhoea,malnutritionand the newarrivals,whosechildrenaresuf other sideofthefenceishousingfor in HealthPostNo4,sincerightonthe - – onlywithdrawings,nowordscallsat tainment. The onlysourcesofdiversion glad tohavethiskindofevening enter tan. Everyone listens with great interest, in aremotevalleynorthern Afghanis of the compound, tells us about his youth ment fordiarrhoea. sometimes theuvulaisburnedasatreat a red-hotironinordertofightsicknesses; medicine callsforburningbodypartswith children intothehospital,sincetraditional Sometimes parentsbringseverelyburned stories orespeciallyhorriblemoments. the femalenursesanddoctorsexchange uniform). latter’s daughter, whoiswearing aschool ther manafewgoatsinexchangeforthe sold to old men (a bald man offers ano hand) andthatschoolgirlsshouldnotbe girl whoisresisting, holding hermother’s with a rusty razor blade in herhand for a not becircumcised(anoldwomanwaits tention tothefactthatyounggirlsshould At theentrance,alargesheetmetalsign Daoud, thefieldcoordinator andhead In theevenings,inMSFcompound, - - - - -

48 | 49 nity ward, and patiently provides us with – the lens alone is bigger than most of the 24 February, Dagahaley in Health Post No 4, since right on the At the entrance, a large sheet metal sign information, even though she is being children here – taking pictures non-stop We visit some of the eight health posts: other side of the fence is the housing for – only with drawings, no words – calls at- uninterruptedly bombarded from all sides. from every possible and impossible pers- simple buildings, some with walls, some the new arrivals, whose children are suf- tention to the fact that young girls should pective; photos that will be of great help just built out of boards, which provide fering from diarrhoea, malnutrition and not be circumcised (an old woman waits Andrea is allowed to sit in a corner and in our work. the basic medical care in the refugee dehydration. with a rusty razor blade in her hand for a draw; later we are even allowed to take pic- camp. The crowd was especially large girl who is resisting, holding her mother’s tures. I don’t dare approach any of the mo- Had we visualised the refugee camp as it hand) and that schoolgirls should not be thers through Mohammed, our interpre- really turned out to be? Actually, we had sold to old men (a bald man offers ano- ter; they seem to be so engrossed; the one expected worse. There are no screaming ther man a few goats in exchange for the waiting for her delivery, the other already masses of people who throw themselves latter’s daughter, who is wearing a school with a newborn baby at her breast. As a on the relief organisations’ vehicles in a uniform). man I feel out of place here, but our pre- desperate search for food. No one is dying sence is accepted with equanimity. Because of thirst at the roadside, there are no bloo- In the evenings, in the MSF compound, we are wearing MSF shirts, and thus can dy battles for meals and tents. the female nurses and doctors exchange pass as “neutrals”, as doctors? In fact, men stories or especially horrible moments. are not tolerated in the maternity ward The horrors of refugee life do not ma- Sometimes parents bring severely burned even though there are family members who nifest themselves as clearly as we had children into the hospital, since traditional repeatedly try to push their way past the thought they would. This is also due to medicine calls for burning body parts with incorruptible doorkeepers into the ward. the fact that the people who have made a red-hot iron in order to fight sicknesses; it this far and survived the worst, ie the ac- sometimes the uvula is burned as a treat- In the maternity ward, colourful cloths In the paediatric ward, I find it easier to tual flight from Somalia, the threats and ment for diarrhoea. cover the beds, cords run through the open speak to the mothers, who are sitting on abuses by armed marauders of all kinds, do space to which green mosquito nets and their beds and are kind of bored, about not like to remember these things and are Daoud, the field coordinator and head IV drips are fastened, bare neon tubes and their personal histories and the illnesses less willing to speak about them. They do of the compound, tells us about his youth slowly rotating ventilators hang from the of their children. The women are eager to not say more than two or three sentences in a remote valley in northern Afghanis- ceiling. Sahara Mohamed, the head nurse, tell their stories, the change in pace seems about their flight, as though it belonged tan. Everyone listens with great interest, leads us through the one large and the to be just what they need. Julien snaps to a far distant past, of which they do not glad to have this kind of evening enter- three small rooms that make up the mater- away with his impressive looking camera wish to be reminded. tainment. The only sources of diversion the nativesrollinginaisles. there wasaKenyancomedian,whohad shows eithernewsorfootball,andonce are atelevisionsetinthedininghall,which camp, Julien,ourtirelessorganiserand To giveusanoverviewoftherefugee 25 February,Dagahaley or robbedwhile fleeing. and neighbourswhowere injured, killed up here.Mostofthemtalkabout relatives der toKenyaatnightand finallyended days, maybetheysneaked over thebor dishu orKismayo,travelled bylorryfor from theunbearableconditionsinMoga Their storiesareverysimilar:theyescaped one asastallfortheirtwoorthreegoats. branches asakitchenandperhapsanother UNHCR tents and built a round hut out of days agohavealreadyreceivedoneofthe refugees, whomwewillbevisitingnext. of thehutsandtentsnewlyarrived Way backinthedistance yougetaglimpse immense dimensionsoftherefugeecamp. for the first time you get a sense of the pletely flatsurroundingcountrysideand an amazing panoramic view of the com But once up there, you are rewarded with And this ladder just doesn’t want to end. ring my voluntary farm work in my youth. since thetimeIwaspickingcherriesdu I probablyhadn’t stood onahighladder tower. AsIwas climbing,Igotveryqueasy; communicator, gotustoascendawater Refugee familieswhojustarrivedafew - - - - so demoralised bythepersistentdrought mads fromthecountrysidewho havebeen vails. Buttheymayalsobe farmers orno law ofthestrong,better armed,pre or lessdamagedhousesinplaces wherethe for averylongtime,lived yearsinmore withstood thehardshipsoflifeinSomalia Whoever hasnotgothereuntilnow - - well. Forexample, afifteen-year-old boy can communicatewithus astoundingly always leadstogalesoflaughter. the bystanderswithquick strokes, which cially whenhedrawsaportraitofone that it calls people’s attention to it, espe glad thatadrawer’s handiworkissovivid and scribblingawayinournotebooks?I’m that wearestandingaroundinthesteppes point ofourwork–whatuseisittothem that wearenotdoctors,theyaskaboutthe curious, interested.Irritatedbythefact twenty, thirtychildrenandadolescents, refugees: firsttwo,threeadultscome,then with someonethanwearejoinedbyother along inalorry. money thatisneededinordertobetaken nourishment orthesmallamountofpetrol sacks ofonionsthatserveascurrencyand they cannotcomeupwitheitherthefew families inSomaliawhoaresopoorthat ned ourgroup,therearemoreand Kenya. However, saysonemanwhohasjoi that theyseenootheroptionbuttoflee To oursurprise, someoftheteenagers Scarcely havewestartedaconversation - - tant thaneatinganddrinking. him. Forhim,cleanlinessisnolessimpor their clothing,whichisveryunpleasantfor only seldomabletowashthemselvesand in thecampalsomeansthatpeopleare tells meinEnglishthatthewatershortage that his name is actually Roberto and his miira, asthedrugiscalledhere.Hclaims filthy mattressinashedandchewsqat,or forty years of age, who lies chained on a severe mentaldisorders.ThereisH,around be peopleinDagahaleywhosuffer from We hadn’t realisedthattherewouldalso agreed totakeussomeofherpatients. Paula, apsychiatristfromBrazil,has 26 February,Dagahaley - ward formalnourished children, sitsathis a time.Accordingly, Chris,inchargeofthe be capableofworkinghere formonthsat work. Withoutsuchbreaks, no onewould as achancetounwindafter suchgruelling an outletfortheirday-to-day frustrations, such celebrationseverynowandthenas says thatthepeopleincompoundneed pragmatically. Joyce,thesurgeryassistant, tional orlocalKenyanstaff, lookatitvery people whoworkhere,betheyinterna on justafewkilometresaway?TheMSF have partieswhenyouknowwhatisgoing of Josiah,aKenyansurgeon.Canyoureally first tocelebratethebirthdaythatevening in ourminds,wedon’t finditveryeasyat are. many ofthemhavelivedthrough,andstill when youconsidertheappallingsituations aren’t morepeoplewith mentalillnesses in ahut.Actually, itisamazingthatthere hout windows;twootherssitapathetically lives inaboxasbighouse,butwit him hismedicines.Anothermanwevisit and makessurethatafamilymembergives father isItalian.Paulavisitshimregularly With everythingwesawtodaystillfresh - -

50| 51 are a television set in the dining hall, which communicator, got us to ascend a water that they see no other option but to flee to tells me in English that the water shortage father is Italian. Paula visits him regularly shows either news or football, and once tower. As I was climbing, I got very queasy; Kenya. However, says one man who has joi- in the camp also means that people are and makes sure that a family member gives there was a Kenyan comedian, who had I probably hadn’t stood on a high ladder ned our group, there are more and more only seldom able to wash themselves and him his medicines. Another man we visit the natives rolling in the aisles. since the time I was picking cherries du- families in Somalia who are so poor that their clothing, which is very unpleasant for lives in a box as big as a house, but wit- ring my voluntary farm work in my youth. they cannot come up with either the few him. For him, cleanliness is no less impor- hout windows; two others sit apathetically 25 February, Dagahaley And this ladder just doesn’t want to end. sacks of onions that serve as currency and tant than eating and drinking. in a hut. Actually, it is amazing that there To give us an overview of the refugee But once up there, you are rewarded with nourishment or the small amount of petrol aren’t more people with mental illnesses camp, Julien, our tireless organiser and an amazing panoramic view of the com- money that is needed in order to be taken 26 February, Dagahaley when you consider the appalling situations pletely flat surrounding countryside and along in a lorry. Paula, a psychiatrist from Brazil, has many of them have lived through, and still for the first time you get a sense of the agreed to take us to some of her patients. are. immense dimensions of the refugee camp. Scarcely have we started a conversation We hadn’t realised that there would also Way back in the distance you get a glimpse with someone than we are joined by other be people in Dagahaley who suffer from With everything we saw today still fresh of the huts and tents of the newly arrived refugees: first two, three adults come, then severe mental disorders. There is H, around in our minds, we don’t find it very easy at refugees, whom we will be visiting next. twenty, thirty children and adolescents, forty years of age, who lies chained on a first to celebrate the birthday that evening curious, interested. Irritated by the fact filthy mattress in a shed and chews qat, or of Josiah, a Kenyan surgeon. Can you really Refugee families who just arrived a few that we are not doctors, they ask about the miira, as the drug is called here. H claims have parties when you know what is going days ago have already received one of the point of our work – what use is it to them that his name is actually Roberto and his on just a few kilometres away? The MSF UNHCR tents and built a round hut out of that we are standing around in the steppes people who work here, be they interna- branches as a kitchen and perhaps another and scribbling away in our notebooks? I’m tional or local Kenyan staff, look at it very one as a stall for their two or three goats. glad that a drawer’s handiwork is so vivid pragmatically. Joyce, the surgery assistant, Their stories are very similar: they escaped Whoever has not got here until now has that it calls people’s attention to it, espe- says that the people in the compound need from the unbearable conditions in Moga- withstood the hardships of life in Somalia cially when he draws a portrait of one of such celebrations every now and then as dishu or Kismayo, travelled by lorry for for a very long time, lived for years in more the bystanders with quick strokes, which an outlet for their day-to-day frustrations, days, maybe they sneaked over the bor- or less damaged houses in places where the always leads to gales of laughter. as a chance to unwind after such gruelling der to Kenya at night and finally ended law of the strong, the better armed, pre- work. Without such breaks, no one would up here. Most of them talk about relatives vails. But they may also be farmers or no- To our surprise, some of the teenagers be capable of working here for months at and neighbours who were injured, killed mads from the countryside who have been can communicate with us astoundingly a time. Accordingly, Chris, in charge of the or robbed while fleeing. so demoralised by the persistent drought well. For example, a fifteen-year-old boy ward for malnourished children, sits at his Both ofthem are electedbythecamppo then toZainab,thechairlady ofthecamp. rides withusfirsttoAbdi, thechairman model andmediatorallin oneperson, children, chronicler, press spokesperson, arrived andlong-timerefugees, friendof seer ofandinformationproviderfornewly coordinator, travelguide,facilitator, over ment ofthepartyguests. and singsafewsongs,muchtotheenjoy to playit,Andreagrabstheinstrument a present.Sincehedoesnotyetknowhow and lateatnightJosiahisgivenaguitaras computer andplaysDJ,thereisdancing, Abu, anMSFworker, assistanttothefield 27February,Dagahaley - - - print-ready sentencesandjugglethejar is clearthattheyareusedtospeakingin The interviewswiththemdragonabit;it of theirwell-tendedcompoundsshow. successful in business, as the dimensions aware oftheirauthority. Andtheyarealso pulation andareimpressivefigures,fully gee camp, which was originally planned food andabitofpeace.Dagahaley refu are arriving every daysearching forwater, of refugeesisnotabating; more families Kenyan government.However, theflood strong resistancetothisonthe partofthe should be set upforthem, but thereis arrived refugees.Actuallyanewcamp now, heismostworriedaboutthenewly great dealworsethanDagahaley”.Right nurses. “Itwasanightmare,”hesays,“a one doctor, togetherwithtwofemale brought in to be tended by him and the and civilianswithbulletwoundswere wretched conditions.Everydaysoldiers the bordertoSomalia,undermost years asamalenurseinsmalltownon “factotum” Abu.Hehadworkedforsome gon commontopoliticiansworldwide. It isnolessinterestingtointerviewour - - tures andmakingsketches. located inseparatebuildings,takingpic stroll throughthehospitalwardswhichare quickly growingmetropolis. as atemporarymeasure,isbecoming Shortly before8:00inthemorning,we 28 February,Dagahaley - in theshadebeneath roofsortrees. there isnotalwaysenoughroom forthem often arrivewithsomany relativesthat problems thatcomeupbecause patients problems thatmightpossiblyarise. with the two chairpersons, Abu and Daoud come to the meeting bungalow to discuss of thevarious“quarters”camp,have carrying sacksofgarbagetotheoven. responsible forincineratingtherefuseis and clampsintheautoclavesman porridge, thesterilisersstackupscalpels firewood intohishutinordertomake ted atatableoutside,thecookiscarrying tyard, smallchildrenarebeingvaccina wash theirclothes. cook onsmallfires,nursetheirchildren, in groupsundertheshadeoftrees, somewhere on the vast premises; they sit days. Relativesofpatientsarecampingout and doctorswehavemetinthepastfew As Abulaterexplainstous,these include Meanwhile, theelders,electedheads The cleaningcrewissweepingthecour Again andagainwerunintopatients - - existence for a fewyears.Itappearsvery the operatingroomthathas onlybeenin staff hereareveryobligingandshowus we hadnotyetvisited.The MSFmedical operating theatre,theonly department then drivetothehospitalso we canseethe bring himtothenearesthealthpost.We young manwithjointproblemssowecan pital afewdaysago,takingalonggaunt a familywehadaccompaniedtothehos away fromthecamp,afterwhichwevisit vaccination activityforthenewarrivalsfar Nenna –anursefromLosAngelesto running awayfromus.Firstweaccompany is stillsomuchwewanttosee,buttime Our last day in Dagahaley begins. There 1 March,Dagahaley - bodies, notaxesorfeesarelevied. that, duetotheabsenceofgovernmental port ofKismayo,whichhastheadvantage bringing theirwares,fromtheSomalisea of over100,000.Everydaytraderscome, camp, butitisalsoacitywithpopulation clothing shop.Dagahaleymaybearefugee dresser, tothe mobilephoneshop,tothe us totheshopsofhisfriends,hair and ourtranslatorMohammed,whotakes Dagahaley’s market,accompaniedbyAbu Josiah, thesurgeon. other operationsareperformedhere,says skull and open-heart surgery; almost all tients aretakentoNairobionlyforopen- but isindispensiblefortherefugees.Pa modestly equippedtoourEuropeaneyes, haley for up to six months at a time, with information. Manyofthem work inDaga with excitingandinteresting storiesand we werehere,andwhohad providedus spent agreatdealoftimein thetendays kers inthecompound,with whom wehad Toward eveningwemakeaquickvisitto We takeourleavefromtheMSFwor 2 March,Nairobi - - - - -

52 | 53 pulation and are impressive figures, fully as a temporary measure, is becoming a Again and again we run into patients modestly equipped to our European eyes, aware of their authority. And they are also quickly growing metropolis. and doctors we have met in the past few but is indispensible for the refugees. Pa- successful in business, as the dimensions days. Relatives of patients are camping out tients are taken to Nairobi only for open- of their well-tended compounds show. 28 February, Dagahaley somewhere on the vast premises; they sit skull and open-heart surgery; almost all The interviews with them drag on a bit; it Shortly before 8:00 in the morning, we in groups under the shade of the trees, other operations are performed here, says is clear that they are used to speaking in stroll through the hospital wards which are cook on small fires, nurse their children, Josiah, the surgeon. print-ready sentences and juggle the jar- located in separate buildings, taking pic- wash their clothes. gon common to politicians worldwide. tures and making sketches. Toward evening we make a quick visit to The cleaning crew is sweeping the cour- Dagahaley’s market, accompanied by Abu It is no less interesting to interview our tyard, small children are being vaccina- and our translator Mohammed, who takes “factotum” Abu. He had worked for some ted at a table outside, the cook is carrying us to the shops of his friends, to the hair- computer and plays DJ, there is dancing, years as a male nurse in a small town on firewood into his hut in order to make 1 March, Dagahaley dresser, to the mobile phone shop, to the and late at night Josiah is given a guitar as the border to Somalia, under the most porridge, the sterilisers stack up scalpels Our last day in Dagahaley begins. There clothing shop. Dagahaley may be a refugee a present. Since he does not yet know how wretched conditions. Every day soldiers and clamps in the autoclaves and the man is still so much we want to see, but time is camp, but it is also a city with a population to play it, Andrea grabs the instrument and civilians with bullet wounds were responsible for incinerating the refuse is running away from us. First we accompany of over 100,000. Every day traders come, and sings a few songs, much to the enjoy- brought in to be tended by him and the carrying sacks of garbage to the oven. Nenna – a nurse from Los Angeles – to a bringing their wares, from the Somali sea- ment of the party guests. one doctor, together with two female vaccination activity for the new arrivals far port of Kismayo, which has the advantage nurses. “It was a nightmare,” he says, “a Meanwhile, the elders, the elected heads away from the camp, after which we visit that, due to the absence of governmental 27 February, Dagahaley great deal worse than Dagahaley”. Right of the various “quarters” of the camp, have a family we had accompanied to the hos- bodies, no taxes or fees are levied. Abu, an MSF worker, assistant to the field now, he is most worried about the newly come to the meeting bungalow to discuss pital a few days ago, taking along a gaunt coordinator, travel guide, facilitator, over- arrived refugees. Actually a new camp with the two chairpersons, Abu and Daoud young man with joint problems so we can 2 March, Nairobi seer of and information provider for newly should be set up for them, but there is problems that might possibly arise. bring him to the nearest health post. We We take our leave from the MSF wor- arrived and long-time refugees, friend of strong resistance to this on the part of the then drive to the hospital so we can see the kers in the compound, with whom we had children, chronicler, press spokesperson, Kenyan government. However, the flood As Abu later explains to us, these include operating theatre, the only department spent a great deal of time in the ten days model and mediator all in one person, of refugees is not abating; more families problems that come up because patients we had not yet visited. The MSF medical we were here, and who had provided us rides with us first to Abdi, the chairman are arriving every day searching for water, often arrive with so many relatives that staff here are very obliging and show us with exciting and interesting stories and then to Zainab, the chairlady of the camp. food and a bit of peace. Dagahaley refu- there is not always enough room for them the operating room that has only been in information. Many of them work in Daga- Both of them are elected by the camp po- gee camp, which was originally planned in the shade beneath roofs or trees. existence for a few years. It appears very haley for up to six months at a time, with tile areas exist. Upon our arrival in Nairobi, disease, canscarcelybelievethatsuchfer to Nairobiwithhisson,whohasabone buildings. TheSomalifatherridingwithus thouses, baobabsandscatteredindustrial disappear, giving waytofarmlandandho becomes. Soon,thethornbushesandsand the capitalcity, thegreenerlandscape rissa takestenhours.Thecloserwegetto is virtuallyinconceivabletous. to movefreelyinKenya–asituationthat camp fortwentyyearswithoutbeingable there arerefugeeswhohavelivedinthe very fewdaysoff. Butlet usnotforgetthat The trip by car to Nairobi through Ga - - - old andclutchestheGlobibook(abeloved the son,whoisaroundsevenoreightyears dreas’ room.Behind thedoor. and behold,therucksackis foundinAn Highly agitated,hecallsDagahaley, andlo en route?Leftitontheedge oftheroad? rwear). Maybeheforgotitin arestaurant (containing hiscomputer, drawings,unde way hehasmanagedtolosehisrucksack drea discoversthatsomewherealongthe buildings. impressed by the glass facades of the tall to hischestduringtheentiretrip,ismost Swiss comicbookforchildren)Igavehim When wegettotheboardinghouse,An - - - an invalid,”he says. work asajournalist.“Thefear makesme ries ofthisexperienceleave himunableto about sensitivetopics.The fearful memo received deaththreatsashe daredtowrite published anewsletter , “Dawn”, buthe years ago.InHagaderarefugeecamp,he list whohadtofleefromSomaliaseven ganisation, wemeetAbdullahi,ajourna hoped-for emigrationtoEuropeortheUS. a stay inNairobitobeafirststeptoward here, who–likemanyothersconsidershis fugee camp,”saysoneoftheSomalisliving be wellprovidedforandvegetateinthere HIV andtuberculosispatients. from theBambahot-dogstand–totreat MSF Francerunsaclinichere – rightacross bile telephones,DVDsandreligioustracts. of town.Theysellclothing,shoesandmo Eastleigh quarter, aratherrundownpart robi itself.Thousandsofthemliveinthe the campsaroundDadaab,butalsoinNai In theofficeofSOCRA,aSomaliaidor “I wouldratherlivehereinsqualorthan Somali refugeescanbefoundnotonlyin 3 March,Nairobi ------homeland and right away begins to ex fied when hesees the topography of his ted toGenevayearsago.Andreaiselectri cousin oftheofficemanagerwhoemigra land”) hangingonthewall,agiftfrom the cantonofGraubünden(called“Heidi over hisheadthereisalarge-scalemapof While wearetalkingwithhim,notice - - - - what ismoreof asidedish?Shouldthestyle isn’t? Whatabsolutelymustbementioned, completed. Whatisimportant, andwhat and MSF–beforeourcomics reportageis – betweenAndreaandmyself, betweenus and manydiscussionswillhave tobeheld obstacles willstillneedtobeovercome the righttrackwithourwork,evenifsome which showsusthatweappeartobeon ryone is enthusiastic about the drawings, deed, afirstselectionofthematerial.Eve ly, obliginglyandcharminglyinword office, whohadassistedussosolicitous mix FestivalinLucerne. for presentationatthe2011FumettoCo sketches and notices in a manner suitable and compileourthousandsofphotos two weeksinKenyatoexamine,organise land today, AndreaandIwillstayanother to anend.JulienisflyingbackSwitzer then tolerantlysmiling,Somalis. Graubünden totheatfirstastonished,but plain thefeaturesofeachvalleysin Today, weshowthepeoplein MSF The researchpartofourworkhascome 4 March,Nairobi - - - - an opportunitytodealwiththeseissues. at theFumettoComixFestival,wewillhave tions? Inthenexttwoweeks,andinApril stick tolarge-scalepictureswithtextcap persed withactualcartoons,orshouldwe reportage bemoreattractiveifitisinters mour, irony, andifso,howmuch?Willthe as neutralpossible?Canithandlehu or bemoreinvolved,emotionallytinged of thereportagetendtowardlaconic, - - -

54 | 55 very few days off. But let us not forget that 3 March, Nairobi While we are talking with him, we notice plain the features of each of the valleys in of the reportage tend toward the laconic, there are refugees who have lived in the Somali refugees can be found not only in over his head there is a large-scale map of Graubünden to the at first astonished, but or be more involved, emotionally tinged or camp for twenty years without being able the camps around Dadaab, but also in Nai- the canton of Graubünden (called “Heidi- then tolerantly smiling, Somalis. as neutral as possible? Can it handle hu- to move freely in Kenya – a situation that robi itself. Thousands of them live in the land”) hanging on the wall, a gift from a mour, irony, and if so, how much? Will the is virtually inconceivable to us. Eastleigh quarter, a rather rundown part cousin of the office manager who emigra- 4 March, Nairobi reportage be more attractive if it is inters- of town. They sell clothing, shoes and mo- ted to Geneva years ago. Andrea is electri- The research part of our work has come persed with actual cartoons, or should we The trip by car to Nairobi through Ga- bile telephones, DVDs and religious tracts. fied when he sees the topography of his to an end. Julien is flying back to Switzer- stick to large-scale pictures with text cap- rissa takes ten hours. The closer we get to MSF France runs a clinic here – right across homeland and right away begins to ex- land today, Andrea and I will stay another tions? In the next two weeks, and in April the capital city, the greener the landscape from the Bamba hot-dog stand – to treat two weeks in Kenya to examine, organise at the Fumetto Comix Festival, we will have becomes. Soon, the thorn bushes and sand HIV and tuberculosis patients. and compile our thousands of photos and an opportunity to deal with these issues. disappear, giving way to farmland and ho- sketches and notices in a manner suitable thouses, baobabs and scattered industrial “I would rather live here in squalor than for presentation at the 2011 Fumetto Co- buildings. The Somali father riding with us the son, who is around seven or eight years be well provided for and vegetate in the re- mix Festival in Lucerne. to Nairobi with his son, who has a bone old and clutches the Globi book (a beloved fugee camp,” says one of the Somalis living disease, can scarcely believe that such fer- Swiss comic book for children) I gave him here, who – like many others – considers his Today, we show the people in the MSF tile areas exist. Upon our arrival in Nairobi, to his chest during the entire trip, is most stay in Nairobi to be a first step toward a office, who had assisted us so solicitous- impressed by the glass facades of the tall hoped-for emigration to Europe or the US. ly, obligingly and charmingly in word and buildings. deed, a first selection of the material. Eve- In the office of SOCRA, a Somali aid or- ryone is enthusiastic about the drawings, When we get to the boarding house, An- ganisation, we meet Abdullahi, a journa- which shows us that we appear to be on drea discovers that somewhere along the list who had to flee from Somalia seven the right track with our work, even if some way he has managed to lose his rucksack years ago. In Hagadera refugee camp, he obstacles will still need to be overcome (containing his computer, drawings, unde- published a newsletter , “Dawn”, but he and many discussions will have to be held rwear). Maybe he forgot it in a restaurant received death threats as he dared to write – between Andrea and myself, between us en route? Left it on the edge of the road? about sensitive topics. The fearful memo- and MSF – before our comics reportage is Highly agitated, he calls Dagahaley, and lo ries of this experience leave him unable to completed. What is important, and what and behold, the rucksack is found in An- work as a journalist. “The fear makes me isn’t? What absolutely must be mentioned, dreas’ room. Behind the door. an invalid,” he says. what is more of a side dish? Should the style THE AUTHORS Andrea Caprez (illustrator) and Christoph Schuler (writer) have been working together for more than 20 years, originally as a musician-lyricist duo, and later as the joint authors of a number of comic books and graphic novels, published by Edition Moderne in Zürich, Switzerland. gardes_ARP.indd 3 08.03.12 13:53 The world‘s biggest refugee camp Andrea Caprez / Christoph Schuler as seen by two comic book authors

in partnership with Médecins Sans Frontières. Caprez / Schuler OUT OF SOMALIA Dagahaley - a refugee camp in Kenya OUT OF SOMALIA OF OUT

ISBN 978-2-8399-1039-2 Médecins Sans Frontières

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