Dublin through the ages BAILE ÁTHA CLIATH Ó RÉ GO RÉ The city walls Múrtha na Cathrach

An Action of the Dublin City Heritage Plan Gníomh de chuid Phlean Oidhreachta Chathair Bhaile Átha Cliath 2 Introduction Reamhrá

From earliest times Dublin would have been an attractive place of settlement, the combination of the Liffey and the sheltered waters of Dublin Bay creating a rich and diverse landscape, suitable for exploitation. The earliest evidence of set- tlement at the mouth of the Liffey can be dated to the Mesolithic (Middle Stone Age) period, but the first historical evi- dence comes a great deal later. Unfortunately, very little is known about Top: The presumed site of the ford, west of the first settlement apart from its two Father Mathew Bridge. early place-names, Duiblinn meaning Below: Dublin Castle with the Record Tower ‘black pool’ and Áth Cliath meaning ‘the and the Dubh-linn Gardens. (DoEHLG) ford of the hurdles’ – names still in use today. The ‘black pool’, thought to have 790, suggests that a monastery was sited been located just south of Dublin Castle somewhere on the banks of the ‘black on the Poddle waterway, remains an pool’. The complex probably consisted of open space to this day and was recently an oval enclosure surrounded by earthen transformed into the tranquil Dubh-linn banks, similar to other early Christian gardens adjoining the Chester Beatty monastic foundations in Ireland. Recent Library. The ‘ford of the hurdles’ can also excavations have identified an early be roughly identified in the modern Christian cemetery at Chancery Lane landscape, having been replaced first by where a small stone church was built in a medieval bridge, and later by the con- c.1100, probably on the site of an earlier temporary Father Mathew Bridge. wooden version. This cemetery was pre- A reference to an abbot of Duiblinn in sumably part of the monastic complex. 3 The Viking Raiders Na Creachadóirí Lochlannacha

The arrival of the ‘scourge of the seas’, houses, built of ‘post-and-wattle’ and the raiding Vikings, in the late 8th and with straw and sod roofs, were huddled the 9th centuries, was to change Dublin together in groups and set within fenced life forever. Prime targets were the property plots or gardens. Dyflinn monasteries, the equivalent of modern- was a wealthy trading emporium, day banks with their holdings of treas- importing luxury ures, cattle, food and, most significantly, items such as people who could be sold as slaves. amber, jet and Dublin was presumably plundered, and ivory, and the raiders settled along the river and set exporting animal up camp. hides, items of personal jewellery and a variety of The first camp, or longphort, was proba- agricultural products. bly on the southern banks of the ‘black pool’. Excavations at South Great The massive fortified settlement must George’s Street have revealed traces of have been an impressive sight, especially Viking habitation and a section of the when seen from the Liffey, and it is no pool where the invaders probably docked wonder that The Book of Leinster their boats. The remains of at least six describes the dún, or stronghold of young Viking warriors were found Dublin, as one of the seven wonders of buried around the rim of the pool – Ireland (Clarke 2002, 5). Yet fortification some complete with weapons and per- was not enough in these troubled times. sonal effects. When the Dubliners rebelled against Brian Bóruma of north Munster in 1014, By the 10th century, the settlement – the result was the famous Battle of known as Dyflinn – had expanded in size Clontarf, when Brian’s victory earned and was surrounded by high earthen him the cult status of the Irish hero. It banks. The famous excavations at Wood was he who finally defeated the Vikings Quay revealed fascinating details of – but victory came at a heavy price. everyday Viking life. For example, their Brian Bóruma was killed.

Above: A bone comb, purse and the blade of a knife buried with a warrior at Sth Great George’s Street (L. Simpson).

Right: Fresceo of Viking raiders from the frieze of City Hall, Dublin.

4 The First City Wall An Chéad Múr Cathrach

Ruled for 40 years by Muirchertach Ua height by a massive 1.50m and 3m in Briain, the great-grandson of Brian, width. The construction of the new wall Dublin’s earthen defences were replaced probably also included a stronghold in in stone between 1100 and 1125. The the south-east corner, most likely on the new wall provided the increased protec- site of an earlier wooden fortification. tion essential for facing down constant political challenges from enemies, such An extensive section of the wall survives as King Magnus Barelegs of Norway. at Cook Street, in a stretch extending for Magnus Barelegs conquered the settle- 83m in length and towering to at least ment in 1102 and ruled for a year until 10m in height (although the upper levels his death. Yet despite this interruption, are rebuilt). It is from this vantage point, Dublin flourished. It spread to the west, high on the battlements, that one can get increasing its size three-fold, and the a true sense of how formidable the city new stone circuit was expanded to encir- walls of Dublin once were. The continua- cle the additional lands. This first city tion of this early wall, measuring c.100m wall represented a coming of age for in length, was exposed during the Wood Dublin in keeping with European devel- Quay excavations and is still partly opments, and indicates the degree of intact, preserved in the basement of the social organisation and wealth of the port Dublin Civic Offices. One of the most in the early 12th century. significant recent discoveries was made at Ross Road where the massive wall, Although only limited sections of the measuring 1.60m in width, was cut into wall survive today, almost the entire cir- the earlier earthen bank defences and cuit can be traced in modern streets: was then used as a footing for a later Cook Street and Essex Street West mark Anglo-Norman tower known as the northern limit, while Ship Street Geneval’s Tower. Little and Lamb Alley mark part of the Left: Section of the refurbished city walls at southern and western lines respectively. Ship Street Little from the west. When completed, the circuit would have Right: The impressive surviving section of the been very imposing, the limestone struc- wall at Cook Street, along the original Liffey ture towering to between 5m and 7m in frontage.

5 The Anglo-Norman Conquerors Na Concairí Angla-Normannacha

The year 1170 represents a Diarmait’s personal victory did not last, watershed in the history of however. By 1171, he was dead, and in Dublin. On the face of it, that same year, the city walls were again the action appeared as sorely tested. The former Hiberno-Norse another internal attempt ruler at Dublin, Ascall Mac Torcaill, to secure supremacy. The launched a surprise attack on the city reality, however, was to from the sea, but the Anglo-Normans have far-reaching effects, retaliated unexpectedly by sortieing out not just for Dublin, but for ‘the southern postern’ and capturing the entire island of Ireland. Ascall. He was promptly beheaded in his Diarmait Mac Murchada, own hall, which finished all hope of a King of Leinster, travelled to England to Hiberno-Norse recovery. seek help from the English king, Henry II, in his struggle for supreme control. It An even more serious trial followed soon was an action that provoked the whole- after this, with the famous siege of sale invasion of Ireland by English Dublin by Ruaidrí Ua Conchobair, which troops. When Diarmait returned with a lasted two whole months. The situation force led by the Earl of Pembroke inside the walls grew desperate with all (Strongbow), Dublin was attacked, in supplies, including water, being cut off. September 1170. High King, Ruaidrí Ua But yet again, the new Dubliners Conchobair, sought to protect the walled launched a surprise attack, catching their fortress with his substantial force far out- besiegers off guard, and completely rout- numbering the invading army. Yet in a ing them. This was the last serious chal- dramatic turn of events, Strongbow and lenge to the invaders, who set about con- his army ‘made an enthusiastic assault on quering the rest of the island. the walls, were immediately victorious, and valiantly overran the city, with con- siderable slaughter of the inhabitants’. Left: ‘Strongbow’ (Dublinia Medieval Trust) Suddenly and unexpectedly, Dublin was Below: Henry II receiving the Irish chieftains in 1171 under new rule. (Waldré)

6 New Defences at Dublin Cóir Chosanta nua ag Baile Átha Cliath

Although the new Dubliners settled Lamb Alley, stands 5m in height and has quickly into their royal city, they were recently been conserved by Dublin City aware of weaknesses in the city defences, Council. The remains of a mural tower, and work began to strengthen them. The known as ‘Genevel’s Tower’, were found Viking wall was demolished and replaced during the excavations at Ross Road. The at Ross Road in the late 12th century, discovery of the tower – which survived while the sources tell us that ‘Newgate, to first storey in height, buried in rubble the western gate, had been rebuilt and deposits – was so unique it has been pre- renamed by 1177. New plans included a served in an underground chamber. This deep city moat, which was water-filled will be accessible to the public in the by the Poddle, on the south-east side. It near future. measured between 15m and 22m in width by between 6m and 9m in depth The jewel in the crown of the defences, and encircled the entire city, apart from however, was Dublin castle, built in 1204 the Liffey boundary. The existing walls by order of King John. The massive rec- were also bolstered by the construction tangular structure, probably completed of mural stone towers, which varied in by the 1230s, was a formidable defence. type and structure: some were D-shaped It consisted of a substantial curtain wall while others were rectangular or square with rounded corner tower and a mas- in plan. Each entrance to the city was sive double D-shaped gatehouse, com- also protected by a strong city gate. plete with causeway and drawbridge. The castle was comprehensively demol- Several sections of the Anglo-Norman ished in the 18th century. Only one wall still survive in the landscape. The tower – the Record Tower – survives. most impressive section, along Ship Street Lower, extends for 39m and stands Scale model of medieval Dublin (Dublinia Medieval 4m high. A second smaller stretch, at Trust)

7 The Northern Extension Wall c.1240 - c.1260 Síneadh an Mhúir ó Thuaidh

The success of the port of Anglo-Norman Dublin can be charted by the rapid expansion on the northern side, where land was reclaimed along the Liffey. This newly-settled area, however, was very exposed as it was outside the city wall and practically on the sea. An ambitious project was developed, by the mayor and commonalty, to expand the city wall around the reclaimed stretch, encom- passing the vulnerable bridge at the western end of the town (built c.1215). Work on the new wall had probably begun by the mid-13th century, and was evidently completed by c.1260 as it is referred to as the ‘new wall towards the Liffey’. This new structure was added onto the old wall, with most of the origi- nal left intact, which created a second line of defence within the city. Gates towers, including Isolde’s Tower at the were cut through the old wall, one of north-east corner, projecting out into the which still survives. It is known as St sea. The massive foundations of this cir- Audoen’s Arch, at Cook Street. cular tower were found during excava- tions, the walls measuring 4m thick, but The new wall was also a quay wall at only surviving to 2.50m in height. The Wood Quay, where the main dock was remains are now preserved in an under- located. There were a number of mural ground chamber, with viewing access from the street. The tower was also used to display the heads of criminals who had been executed in the city: the skulls of several young males were found dur- ing the excavation. One skull bears testi- mony to a horrific and cruel death as the execution was clearly botched, the exe- cutioner aiming badly and catching the victim’s jaw rather than this neck. This blow would not have killed him instant- ly, and at least one more fall of the axe would have been required.

Above: St. Audoen’s Arch Left: The well-preserved remains of Isolde’s Tower found during excavation.

8 Dublin in the Later Medieval Period Baile Átha Cliath sa Mheánaois Dhéanach

The documentary sources record a the suburbs. While catastrophic for the marked display of neglect with regard to Dubliners, this act was enough to turn the city defences during this period. The the invaders away. stone towers within the walls were leased out, which often blocked access to the Despite the renewed interest in the city wall circuit, vital for the defence of the defences, the trend of neglect and decay city. Other transgressions are also listed: continued. The 16th century saw the there were illegal postern gates, introduction of heavy ordnance, which, stonework was removed, and the ditch by it very nature, posed a serious threat was infilled with rubbish. It was a period to the walled defences. Heavy ordnance of relaxation, reflecting a time of pros- was to the fore during the Silken Thomas perity. But Dublin life changed in the Rebellion of 1534 when Dublin Castle 1270s when war broke out in the was attacked, although the city defences Wicklow mountains, instigated by the were not breached. A second attempt to rebellious O’Byrnes and O’Tooles. The take Dublin in 1580 was also unsuccess- city became subject to persistent attack, ful. A more significant threat emerged and by the early 14th century much of during the Nine Years’ War, when the the surrounding hinterland was depopu- defences again fell under scrutiny, with lated and lying waste. orders issued that all postern gates were to be in-filled and breaches of the wall The 1315 invasion by the repaired. Despite these improvements, Scots, led by Robert the the walls were described as insecure in Bruce, send panic through- 1598, with the south wall ruinous by out the country. In 1603. The quay was also described as February 1317, when the ruinous by 1607. Scottish troops were poised to attack Dublin, the Mayor finally took Left: Robert the Bruce (G. Jamesone, c. 1588-1644) Below: Silken Thomas’ siege of the city stronghold in action and began to repair the walls. He 1534 (Raphael Holinshed, The Histoire of Irelande, also ordered the burning, in advance, of 1577)

9 The Early Modern Period An Nua-Aois Mhoch

Although the city’s defences had deterio- publicly invited any interested Protestant rated, Speed’s 1610 map of Dublin indi- English to come and settle in Dublin – cates that the wall circuit was still intact, which they did in large numbers. The in what was a period of relative calm fol- increased population led to expansion, lowing the Flight of the Earls in 1607. especially on the eastern side of the city The rebellion under Phelim O’Neill in where the Poddle confluence was infilled. 1641, however, was to plunge the coun- De Gomme’s 1678 map documents the try back into political strife, the flood of sweeping changes that had occurred in refugee Protestants to Dublin causing Dublin since Speed’s map of 1610. immense pressure, especially for the Catholic population. Many of these were The increased prosperity generated a new expelled. The next five years was to type of town planning. There was an intro- prove challenging for Dubliners, with duction of public open spaces, on both the numerous sieges and confrontations cul- north and south sides of the river. The old minating in the arrival of Oliver part of the city and city defences became Cromwell in 1649. The city itself, how- an impediment to this new policy and ever, escaped Cromwell’s brutality. demolitions began in the 17th century. Dublin also suffered natural disasters at The destruction continued into the 18th this time, including severe depopulation and 19th centuries, greatly aided by the after an outbreak of plague in 1650. One formation, in 1757, of the Wide Street thousand three hundred people died of Commissioners. As their name suggests, plague in a single week. the Commissioners were never going to be sympathetic to the narrow streets and The restoration of the monarchy in 1660 laneways of the historic core. heralded a new beginning of expansion for the city. In 1651, the Corporation De Gomme’s map of Dublin, 1673

10 The Defences Today Cóir Chosanta an Lae inniu

By the 18th century, the expanding sub- unnoticed either because they were hid- urbs had engulfed the historic core. The den from view, were incorporated into shift to what is now O’Connell Street sig- new buildings, or were fortunate enough nalled a continuation of the neglect and not to be in the way of entrepreneurial decay so marked in the preceding years. property developers, of whatever genera- The stone defences became less and less tion. Their rediscovery, as part the new important to the people of Dublin, the and dynamic redevelopment cycle of past glories forgotten as they were Dublin, has allowed them to be reinstated viewed as an impediment to expansion once again, not as isolated and hidden and improvement. But not all the fragments of history, but as part of a defences disappeared. Dublin Castle, the meaningful reconstruction of the city’s centre of English administration in past. They re-emerge under the protection Dublin since the early 13th century, of Dublin City Council, (whose predeces- remained the bastion of British rule in sors were responsible for their very con- Ireland, right down until 1922. Today, struction) which now strives to protect the Castle maintains its place at the hub and promote them. Thus, it is now possi- of Government affairs, providing a venue ble for the intrepid explorer, or the casual for EU Heads of Government, and other visitor, to walk the streets of old Dublin visiting dignitaries. and piece together the circuit of the walls, once so important and now a poignant Although Dublin Castle is the most visi- remainder of a thousand or more years of ble, remaining manifestation of the this city’s extraordinary history. medieval city defences, there are other gems around the city. These have survived Upper Yard, Dublin Castle

11 This leaflet and the associated exhibition were commissioned by Dublin City Council in association with the Heritage Council, as an action of the Dublin City Heritage Plan and a continuation of the Dublin Through the Ages exhibition programme.

Source text: Linzi Simpson Photography: Dublin City Council and Stephen Farrell Proofing: Jill Siddall Design and layout: Environmental Publications

For further information the city walls go to www.dublincity.ie or email [email protected]