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Naples Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast 4

Naples Pompeii & the Amalfi Coast 4

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Salerno & the

Why Go? ...... 178 Salerno can be visited on foot, but concentrate on the pic- ...... 182 turesque centro storico (historic centre) with its labyrinth Parco Nazionale del of colourful earthy streets. This is the only area of the city Cilento e Vallo that was miraculously spared during World War II bombing di Diano...... 182 when the city was designated the capital of Allied . Have ...... 188 a look, too, at the splendid waterfront promenade lined with palm trees. Then, allow at least three hours for the fasci- Cilento Coast...... 190 nating excavations at Paestum, among the best-preserved ...... 192 Greek temples in the world. And don’t miss the Cilento region, one of this area’s un- sung glories, with a largely undeveloped coastal strip and a beautiful national park. It’s a burgeoning region for walk- ers, too, and agriturismi (farm-stay accommodation) make Best Places to Eat perfect bases. The region has some heavyweight sights as »»La Cantina del Feudo well, including an extraordinary monastery, an evocative ar- (p179) chaeological site, and intriguing grottoes and caves. »»Vicolo della Neve (p179) »»Anna (p189) Road Distance (KM) »»I Tre Gufi (p191) Paestum 27

Best Places to Agropoli 45 17 Stay »»Agriturismo i Moresani 58 30 13 (p212) Palinuro 112 69 62 53 »»Villa Vea (p212) »»Marulivo Hotel (p211) »»Hotel Calypso (p210) o Salern Paestum Agropoli Castellabate 176

DON’T MISS Getting Around Ordering the locally Salerno is on the ferry route from and , and produced buffalo-milk in summer the coast resorts and islands. The main Ci- mozzarella; soft, lento towns can be reached by or ferry; however, renting creamy and mildly a car will provide the flexibility to explore the smaller villages tangy, it is considered and the Parco Nazionale del Cilento e (Cilento to be among the best in National Park and the Valley of Diano) inland, where the bus the country. service is sporadic, with many villages only accessible by car. Overall the roads are good throughout the Cilento region with well signposted towns and resorts within easy reach.

Best Beaches 3 PERFECT DAYS »» (p191) »»Santa Maria di Castella- Day 1 – Culture & Cuisine bate (p190) Start off in Salerno by checking out the magnificent ca- »»Spiaggia Palinuro (p192) thedral (p178), followed by an atmospheric stroll around »»Agropoli (p188) the narrow backstreets of the city’s small centro storico (historic centre). Take a cappuccino break in a typical hung-with-washing piazza, then hop on a train or drive to Best Activities Paestum (p182) for an early lunch and an afternoon vis- »»Wreck diving in Agropoli iting its magical temples (p183). In the evening continue (p189) south to Agropoli (p188) for an ocean-front dinner. »»Moonlit ocean trip on the Day 2 – Coastal Cilento Cilento Coast (p191) Stretch your legs with a morning stroll along Agropoli’s »»Hiking in the Parco Nazi- sweeping promenade. Visit the castle (p188) and historic onale del Cilento (p182) quarter before continuing south along this dramatic »»Boat trip to the grottoes coastline of hidden coves and high cliffs. Stop for a swim, in Palinuro (p192) a snack or a stroll at small traditional Italian resorts like (p190), a favourite of Ernest Hemingway’s; (p191), with its pale pebble beach; and medieval Resources (p191), home to a lovely traditional piazza. Carry »»Salerno City (www.sale on along this unspoiled coastline before ending the day in rnocity.com) Comprehen- pretty Palinuro (p192). sive city website. Day 3 – Explore hidden caves and grottoes »»Salerno Province (www. salernomemo.com) Empha- It’s not half as famous as its cousin, but Palinuro’s sis on sports and activities. Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto; p193) is just as spectacular. Next, head inland into the Parco Nazionale del Cilento »»Agropoli (www.com (p182) and two otherworldly caves, the Grotta di Cas- mune.agropoli.sa.it) Gen- telcivita (p183), one of the largest cave complexes in eral information and local Europe, and the equally tantalising Grotta dell’Angelo news. (p183) in , where your tour includes the added »»Paestum (www.infopaes adventure of a boat ride. Consider staying overnight at tum.it) Information about one of the park’s superb agriturismi (farm-stay the town and archaeologi- accommodation). cal site. »»Cilento (www.discoverci lento.com) General infor- mation on the park and Accommodation coastal resorts. While Salerno doesn’t have a great choice of accommoda- tion, the Cilento coast and park have a diverse range of places to lay your head. Mountaintop discreet palazzi (mansions), breezy beachfront hotels and ecofriendly agri- turismi are here, with prices considerably lower than those on the . For more information, see the Accom- modation chapter, p194.

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