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ISSN: 2598-0637 Kendala Dan Solusi Kreatif Dalam Belajar Bahasa Dan Sastra Arab ISSN: 2598-0637 Kendala dan Solusi Kreatif dalam Belajar Bahasa dan Sastra Arab KEANEKARAGAMAN BUDAYA BERBUSANA ARAB : MAKNA SOSIAL DAN HISTORISNYA M. Alfin Khoirun Na’im dan Badriyah Widi Andari Universitas Negeri Malang [email protected] ABSTRAK : Budaya berpakaian di wilayah Arab sangatlah beragam. Warna, kain serta model pakaiannya yang beragam mengindikasikan kelas sosial penggunanya. Dari segi historisnya, pakaian-pakaian Arab memiliki keterikatan dengan tradisi-tradisi yang berkembang disetiap periode. Periodesasi yang tergambarkan dalam sejarah berpakaian orang-orang Arab diantaranya sejarah berpakaian Islam di wilayah Timur Tengah dari masa pemerintahan Umayyah dan Abbasiyah, masa Kesultanan Mamluk, Kekaisaran Ottoman, serta masa awal Kekaisaran Ottoman dan Iran. Sejarah tersebut menjadi sebuah cikal dimana berkembangnya pakaian-pakaian tradisional Arab yang kemudian berkembang baik dari segi istilah maupun coraknya di seluruh bagian negara Arab. KATA KUNCI : budaya pakaian Arab, keanekaragaman busana, makna sosial, makna historis. Keberadaan sebuah budaya tidak terlepas dari sejarah kemunculannya. Begitu pula dengan budaya berpakaian, yang memiliki keterkaitan dnegan tradisi- tradisi sebelumnya. Kedatangan Islam di dunia Arab juga tidak lantas merubah keseluruhan tradisi budaya yang sudah ada, termasuk pakaian. Hanya saja ada beberapa perbedaan yang mendasari berpakaian di masa Islam dengan masa pra- Islam. Model-model pakaian dalam sebuah masyarakat tentu berbeda antara yang satu dengan yang lainnya. Jika dalam ajaran Islam pakaian termasuk ajaran syari‘ah, maka dalam budaya barat mungkin berbeda. Dalam budaya barat pakaian merupakan salah satu lambang status sosial, produk seni dan merupakan bagian dari ideologi sekulerisme. Bahkan fungsi pakaian pun telah berubah, bukan lagi untuk menutup aurat (menurut Islam). Perbedaan ini merupakan realitas yang mungkin dapat bersinggungan atau bahkan dianggap bertentangan idealitas ideologi tertentu baik ideologi agama, bangsa dan negara. Pakaian laki-laki dan perempuan berbeda, meski berfungsi sama namun pakaian keduanya tidak bisa dibalik. Atau model yang satu kurang tepat jika diaplikasikan terhadap lawan jenisnya. Model pakaian masyarakat Arab, Eropa, Asia dan sebagainya akan berbeda satu sama lain. Hal ini bisa jadi disebabkan karena cuaca, budaya, dan Seminar Nasional Bahasa Arab Mahasiswa II Tahun 2018 714 HMJ Jurusan Sastra Arab Fakultas Sastra Universitas Negeri Malang Kendala dan Solusi Kreatif dalam Belajar Bahasa dan Sastra ISSN 2598-0637 Arab kebutuhan pakaian berbeda. Di sisi lain ideologi masyarakat juga seringkali turut andil dalam terciptanya mode pakaian (Maknuna, 2015). Dalam tulisan ini dibahas mengenai keanekaragaman busana Arab dari berbagai negara di dunia Arab dengan keunikan-keunikan pada setiap negaranya. Selain itu, busana memiliki peran penting dalam pembentukan makna social dimana pengguna nya dapat menjadi simbol social tertentu, baik ditilik dari segi pemakaian dan segi historisnya. BUDAYA BERBUSANA ARAB Dalam fungsi yang lebih luas, pakaian memberikan fungsi perlindungan, kesopanan, hiasan, dan penampilan (Eicher, 2005). Karenanya, pakaian juga dapat menjadi suatu representamen, yang pada gilirannya dapat mengandung ikon, indeks, dan simbol (Ulfa, 2016). Busana di Arab sangat bermacam-mavam, namun secara umum bentuk busana budaya Arab adalah jubah panjang, baik untuk laki-laki atau perempuan yang membedakan adalah variasi warna dimana laki-laki memiliki warna monoton sedangkan perempuan lebih banyak variasi. (Guindi, 2005). Juga untuk penutup kepala, bagi laki-laki seperti surban yang dililitkan kepala dan bagi perempuan adalah jilbab sebagai penutupnya (Ulfa, 2016). Menjadi berbeda adala penyebutannya diantara negara-negara arab disertai ciri khusus dan unik untuk setiap negara. Berikut ini merupakan gambaran pakaian tradisional Arab yang umum dipakai (Wienhold, 2015): Pakaian laki-laki : Pakaian panjang sampai pergelangan kaki, biasanya dengan lengan ثوب Thawb .1 panjang, mirip dengan jubah. Mengenakan thawb mengekspresikan kesetaraan dan itu juga sangat cocok untuk iklim panas. Biasanya berwarna putih tetapi dapat ditemukan dalam warna lain, terutama di musim dingin. Seminar Nasional Bahasa Arab Mahasiswa II Tahun 2018 715 HMJ Jurusan Sastra Arab Fakultas Sastra Universitas Negeri Malang ISSN: 2598-0637 Kendala dan Solusi Kreatif dalam Belajar Bahasa dan Sastra Arab Gambar 1.1 Thawb Jubah putih, coklat atau hitam panjang yang dilapisi dengan emas بشت Bisht .2 yang dikenakan di atas thawb. Ia juga dikenal sebagai mishlah. Sering dipakai oleh pemimpin negara atau pemimpin agama. Gambar 1.2 Bisht hiasan kepala tradisional dari Timur Tengah, terbuat dari كوفية Keffiyeh .3 kain persegi, dilipat dan dibungkus dengan berbagai gaya di sekitar kepala. Beberapa pemakai membungkus keffiyeh menjadi serban, sementara yang lain memakainya dengan longgar menutupi punggung dan bahu. Biasanya terbuat dari katun putih (populer di Negaranegara Teluk). Keffiyeh umumnya ditemukan di iklim kering guna memberikan perlindungan dari matahari, serta untuk penggunaan melindungi mulut dan mata dari debu dan pasir. Gambar 1.3 Keffiyeh Seminar Nasional Bahasa Arab Mahasiswa II Tahun 2018 716 HMJ Jurusan Sastra Arab Fakultas Sastra Universitas Negeri Malang Kendala dan Solusi Kreatif dalam Belajar Bahasa dan Sastra ISSN 2598-0637 Arab 4. Tagiyah sebuah penutup kepala tipis kadangkadang dikenakan di bawah keffiyeh agar tidak tergelincir. Gambar 1.4 Tagiyah .tali hitam tebal, dua ikatan yang menahan keffiyeh di tempatnya عقال Agal .5 Beberapa pria mungkin pilih untuk tidak memakai agal. Gambar 1.5 Agal Sedangkan untuk pakaian perempuan: longgar, lengan panjang, pakaian panjang pergelangan kaki ثوب Thawb .1 seperti pakaian pria. Namun, untuk perempuan, leher dan depan dapat disulam dan dihias dengan manikmanik. Juga warna yang lebih bervariasi. Gambar 1.6 Thawb .celana katun atau sutra yang dikenakan di bawah thawb شلوار Salwar .2 Dikenakan wanita terutama di anak benua India, sepasang celana panjang longgar yang dikenakan dengan tunik panjang. Gambar 1.7 Salwar Seminar Nasional Bahasa Arab Mahasiswa II Tahun 2018 717 HMJ Jurusan Sastra Arab Fakultas Sastra Universitas Negeri Malang ISSN: 2598-0637 Kendala dan Solusi Kreatif dalam Belajar Bahasa dan Sastra Arab jubah hitam besar yang dikenakan di atas thawb longgar menutupi عباءة Abaya .3 seluruh tubuh. Terkadang memakai thawb di bawah abaya mereka. Berpakaian di Timur Tengah mencerminkan lingkungan, tradisi, warisan, kepercayaan religius, dan kepribadian wanita masyarakatnya, bersama dengan selera pribadi dan tren faishonnya sendiri. Ketika dirumah dengan anggota keluarga, sebagian besar wanita tidak memakai abaya. Gambar 1.8 Abaya jilbab khas yang terikat erat di sekitar kepala dan diselipkan di حجاب Hijab .4 belakang untuk menyembunyikan rambut sementara juga menutupi bagian dahi, tetapi meninggalkan wajah yang masih tampak. Ada banyak versi dari hijab yang ada dipakai dalam berbagai cara. Hijab telah lama menjadi simbol kesopanan dan telah digunakan sebagai penutup kepala. Arti Islam dari kata hijab sebenarnya berarti "kesopanan" dan mengacu pada tanggung jawab pria dan wanita harus mempertahankan kesederhanaan mereka dengan mencegah daya tarik dari lawan jenis. Gambar 1.9 Hijab Seminar Nasional Bahasa Arab Mahasiswa II Tahun 2018 718 HMJ Jurusan Sastra Arab Fakultas Sastra Universitas Negeri Malang Kendala dan Solusi Kreatif dalam Belajar Bahasa dan Sastra ISSN 2598-0637 Arab Hijab yang menutupi wajah. Disebut juga dengan cadar di نقاب Niqab .5 Indonesia. Beberapa wanita di Timur Tengah mengenakan cadar sebagai bagian dari hijab mereka, sementara yang lainnya tidak. Ini populer di negara- negara Arab di Teluk Persia tetapi juga dapat ditemukan di Afrika Utara, Asia Tenggara, dan anak benua India. Ada banyak gaya niqab. Biasanya ada dua jenis niqab. Yang pertama adalah kain panjang yang dikenakan di sekitar kepala yang meninggalkan mata, dan kadangkadang dahi, terlihat (setengah niqab). Yang kedua adalah penutup wajah total yang terdiri dari pita atas yangdiikatkan di dahi bersama dengan bagian panjang lebar yang menutupi wajah, meninggalkan celah untuk mata (penuh atau niqab teluk). Di Arab Saudi, wanita dibutuhkan untuk mengenakan abaya dan hijab, sedangkan niqab adalah diperlukan untuk wanita muslim tetapi opsional untuk wanita yang lain. Gambar 1.10 Niqab 6. Burqa adalah gaya niqāb yang kurang umum. Burqa terdiri dari bahan ringan lebar lipit sekitar topi yang pas di atas kepala. Ada kisi-kisi terawang bersulam tempat untuk melihat. Pakaian luar yang membungkus menyelimuti seluruh tubuh. Itu dikenakan di atas pakaian seharihari yang biasa (seringkali gaun panjang atau jubah dan celana) dan dilepas ketika wanita kembali ke rumah. Burqa hampir sepenuhnya ditemukan di Afghanistan dan daerah - daerah tertentu di Pakistan dan India. Gambar 1.11 Burqa Seminar Nasional Bahasa Arab Mahasiswa II Tahun 2018 719 HMJ Jurusan Sastra Arab Fakultas Sastra Universitas Negeri Malang ISSN: 2598-0637 Kendala dan Solusi Kreatif dalam Belajar Bahasa dan Sastra Arab KEANEKARAGAMAN BUSANA ARAB Telah disebutkan bahwasanya budaya berbusana yang umum di dunia arab adalah busana dengan bentuk dan model seperti diatas. Namun, terdapat keunikan-keunikan yang membuat busana satu negara-dengan negara lain berbeda. Muncul perbedaan penyebutan, warna hingga pengembangan bentuk dan fungsi menjadikan ciri khusus untuk suatu budaya berbusana di negara tersebut. (Riva, 2016). Mulai dari aksesori busana orang Arab dari penutup kepala. Dari aksesori
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