The Best of Brazil

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1 The Best of Brazil

There’s a joke Brazilians like to tell: When the world was created, one of the archangels peered over God’s shoulder at the work in progress and couldn’t help noticing that one country had been especially favored. “You’ve given everything to Brazil,” the archangel said. “It has the longest beaches, the largest river, the biggest forest, the best soil. The weather’s always warm and sunny, with no floods, hurricanes, or natural disasters at all. Don’t you think that’s a little unfair?” “Ah,” God replied, “just wait until you see the people I’m putting there.” Accuracy rarely comes with a punch line, but there’s a significant grain of truth in that tale. Brazil as a nation is unusually blessed. Five thousand miles of coastline—some of it packed with cafes and partygoers, but long stretches bliss- fully empty. Rainforests and wetlands teem with exotic critters. Some of the old- est cities and civic architecture in the New World (and one of the newest cities in the entire world) are here. Restaurants match the snobbiest standards, with regional cuisines that have yet to be discovered in culinary capitals like New York or L.A. Music lovers could make Brazil a lifetime study. And let’s not forget a little thing called Carnaval. And about those Brazilians: They work as hard as anyone in the First World, and many a good deal harder. In recent years Brazil has devoted time and resources to improving its tourism infrastructure, reflected in the new airports, hotels, and inns that have sprung up around the country. Yet no one could accuse Brazilians of worshipping efficiency. They’d much rather get along than get things done; the goal is, above all, harmony. Harmony can mean an entire Sunday spent watching soccer, or afternoons off for quality time with your buddies at the beach. It can mean countless hours of effort for a single night’s party. But above all, harmony mandates never taking anything all that seriously. And at this, Brazilians excel. Read on to discover some of the best this country has to offer.

1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences • Attend Carnaval in Rio: The and food, drink, and eye candy will biggest party in the world; whether come to you. See chapter 4. you dance it on the streets, watch • Watch a Soccer Game at Mara- thousands participate with their canã Stadium: Nothing can pre- elaborate costumes in the samba pare you for a game at the largest parade, or attend the fairy-tale stadium in the world. Up to Copacabana Palace ball. It’s the one 100,000 fans sing, dance, and drum event not to miss! See chapters 2 for hours in one of the biggest par- and 4. ties in town. See chapter 4. • Be the Girl or Boy from Ipanema: • Stroll the Streets of Ouro Prêto: Rio may have other beaches, but Ouro Prêto’s cobblestone streets Ipanema is still the one with the haven’t changed much since the best people-watching. Grab a spot 18th century. Over a dozen 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 7

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baroque churches and beautifully sharply with the blue sky and preserved colonial architecture dot sparkling ocean. Sunsets cast a the hills of this charming town. glow of pure gold over the dunes. See chapter 5. See chapter 10. • Get to Know Pelourinho: The • Kayak in the Amazon: To explore restored historical center of Sal- the rainforest in depth, nothing vador is a treasure of baroque beats a slow descent of an Amazon churches, colorful colonial archi- tributary; the kayak provides the tecture, steep cobblestone streets, freedom to view the rainforest at and large squares. See chapter 8. leisure, guides explain the work- • Hear the Drummers in Pelô: At ings of this ecosystem, and cooks night the historic heart of Salvador prepare meals of delicious Ama- comes alive with music. Most zon fish. See chapter 12. impressive are the Blocos Afro, the • Admire the Modernist Architec- all-percussion bands that create a ture of Brasilia: Built from rhythm and beat with their drums scratch in a matter of years on the so intense it sends shivers down red soil of the dry cerrado, Brasilia your spine. See chapter 8. is an oasis of modernism in • Hit the Waves in Porto de Gal- Brazil’s interior. Marvel at the inhas: This casual laid-back tropi- clean lines and functional forms cal resort of white beaches is the and admire some of the best pub- perfect spot to learn to surf. You’ll lic art in the country. See chap- never get cold, while steamed crab ter 13. and fresh tropical juices between • Get Drenched at Amazing waves do wonders to keep you Iguaçu Falls: These falls consist of 1 going. See chapter 9. 275 cataracts along a 2.5km (1 ⁄2- • Watch the Sunset Over the mile) stretch of the Iguaçu River. Dunes in Genipabu: White as The water’s power mesmerizes as snow, the sand dunes of Geni- you stare into the roiling caul- pabu, north of Natal, contrast drons. See chapter 14.

2 The Best Beaches • Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro: Yes, rutted track, but the views are this is one of the most urban more than worth it. See chapter 7. beaches in the world, but it’s still • Morro de São Paulo, Bahia: The one of the country’s prime tan- perfect island getaway, Morro de ning spots. The long stretch of São Paulo is only a 2-hour boat white sand is perfect for observing ride from Salvador. The rustic set- the tan and lovely (male and ting, car-free streets, and laid-back female alike). Or watch a game of atmosphere are perfect for relax- volleyball while having a beer and ing. The calm, warm waters are some fresh seafood; if you feel like excellent for swimming or snor- it, go for a swim or a stroll. See keling. See chapter 8. chapter 4. • Porto de Galinhas, Pernambuco: • Praia dos Castelhanos, Ilhabela: Unlike so many beaches in Brazil, Ilhabela’s prime unspoiled beach is development in Porto de Galinhas long and wild and completely has been kept resolutely small undeveloped; mountains covered scale. No high-rises mar the in untouched Atlantic rainforest unpretentious town of Porto de provide a stunning backdrop. Galinhas, which boasts perhaps Access is by boat or over a bumpy four streets—enough for a dozen 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BRAZIL Brazil 60° W PANAMAPA N A M A Georgetown GUYANAG U Y A N A MedellínMedellMedellín S VENEZUELAV E N E Z U E L A Paramaribo Cayenne 80° W E BogotáBogotBogotá FRENCH D R GUIANAG SURINAME io U I A GUIANA A T L A N T I C N Or N A (FRANCE) ino BoaBoa VVistaista ANDESA co H O C E A N COLOMBIAC O L O M B I A I G H CaliCali L A N D S AMAPÁ RORAIMARORAIMA Macapá Ne g R i o r o QuitoQuito S I N or A

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o i SantaSanta FeFe R Rio Grande URUGUAY ValparaisoValparaiso SantiagoSantiago Buenos Aires 80° W 60° W Montevideo 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 9

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° PA N A M A GeorgetownGeorgetown 40 W G U Y A N A Medellín S V E N E Z U E L A ParamariboParamaribo CayenneCayenne E Bogotá FRENCHFRENCH D R G SURINAMESURINAME io U I A GUIANAGUIANA ATLANTICA T L A N T I C N Or N A (FRANCE)(FRANCE) ino Boa Vista A co HIGHLANDSH OCEANO C E A N C O L O M B I A I G H Cali L A N D S AMAPAAMAPÁMAPÁ RORAIMA MMacapáMacapacapá R i Ne g r See Chapter 12 o o Equator ° Quito S I N 0

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n Manaus n E C U A D O R SantarSSantarémantarém o See Chapter 11 i T A o n s X o Guayaquil m a z ó c See Chapter 16 j a a o Fortaleza Iquitos i n p t AMAZONAS R a a i n See Chapter 10 r T N e i s MMARANHMARANHÃOARANHÃO CCEARCEARÁEARÁ d o Fernando O a i PARPPARÁARÁ TeresinaTeresina Z M R RIORIO GRANDEGRANDE de Noronha A o M i DODO NORTENORTE NatalNatal A R PARAÍBAPARAPA R A Í BAB A JoJJoãooão PIAUPPIAUÍIAUÍ PessoaPessoa BBRAZILR A Z I L RecifeRecife Pôrto PERNAMBUCOPERNAMBUCO s c o Velho ci See Chapter 9 Rio n MaceiMMaceióaceió P E R U Branco a TOCANTINSTOCANTINS r See Chapter 8 ALAGOASALAGOAS F SERGIPESERGIPE RONDÔNIA o ã AracajuAracaju MATOMATO S

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La Paz GoiGGoiâniaoiâniania BrasBBrasíliarasílialia R Arequipa R L a k e B O L I V I A Ti t i c a c a PANTANALP A N T A N A L Cochabamba MINASMINAS GERAISGERAIS CorumbCCorumbáorumbá UberlândiaUberlUberlândiandia See Chapter 5 BeloBelo CampoCampo ESPEESPÍRITOSPÍRITORITO Potosí HorizonteHorizonte GrandeGrande á SANTOSANTO n a MATOMATO GROSSOGROSSO r See Chapters 3 & 4 VitóriaVitVitóriaria a 20° S DODO SULSUL P SÃOSÃO A T A C A M A i o PAULOPAULO RIORIO DDEE R SSãoão P A C I F I C D E S E R T JANEIROJANEIRO PA R A GUAYG U A Y PPauloaulo O C E A N RioRio ddee JJaneiroaneiro Antofagasta Tr PARANÁPARANPARANÁ SantosSantos opic of C AsunciónAsunciAsunción apricorn FozFoz dodo IguaçuIIguaguaçu See Chapters 6 & 7 E CuritibaCuritiba

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o i Santa Fe R RioRio GGranderande URUGUAYURUGUAY 400 mi Valparaiso 0 Santiago BuenosBuenos AiresAires 0 400 km MontevideoMontevideo 40° W 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BRAZIL

restaurants, a bank, some surf do Sancho, a crescent of red sand shops, and a beachside bar or two. on shimmering clear blue water See chapter 9. that can only be reached by clam- • Ponta Negra, Manaus: Not an bering down a rickety iron ladder ocean beach but a river beach, through a chasm in the cliff side. Ponta Negra, on the shores of Rio See chapter 16. Negro, is the most popular tan- • Praia Mole, Florianópolis: Fac- ning spot in the dry season. All ing the open ocean, Praia Mole is the standard beach accouterments one of the most popular beaches are present, including vendors ply- on the beautiful southern island of ing food, drinks, and souvenirs. Santa Catarina (aka Florianópolis). Beach kiosks serve up snacks until Perfectly white fluffy sand, lush the wee hours. See chapter 12. green vegetation, and rocky out- • Fernando do Noronha: The crops give the beach an isolated, island archipelago of Fernando do paradisiacal feel. Yet, the strand is Noronha has so many spectacular anything but quiet, packed with beaches, it’s hard to single out just an attractive bohemian crowd of one. Praia do Leão offers wild locals from Floripa, yuppie crashing surf and sea turtle hatch- tourists, surfers, gay and gay- ings in season. The most gor- friendly sunbathers, and families. geously secluded is Praia da Baía See chapter 17.

3 The Best Outdoor Adventures • Hang Gliding in Rio: Running They also have waterfalls and nat- off the edge of a platform with ural waterslides of smooth red nothing between you and the marble, plus lots of great hiking ground 800m (2,624 ft.) below and biking trails. See chapter 8. requires a leap of faith, so to • Canoeing the Amazon: Just you speak, but once you do, the views and a canoe in the jungle. Your of the rainforest and beaches are senses heighten as you listen to the so enthralling that you almost for- sounds of the forest, watch for get about the ground until your splashes in the water, and peer toes touch the sand at São Con- into the trees to find birds, sloths, rado beach. See chapter 4. and monkeys. See chapter 12. • Board, Kite, and Yacht Sailing • Walking Through the Amazon in Ilhabela: A gem of an island Forest: Get off the river and delve just an hour from one of the into the dense forest. In a temper- world’s largest cities, Ilhabela has ate forest you may see three or the wind and waves and infra- four varieties of trees; in the Ama- structure for any wind on water- zon you’ll spot 10 to 20 different sport, be it yacht sailing, board types in a matter of minutes. See sailing, or that new adrenaline chapter 12. kick of kite surfing. The undevel- • Horseback Riding in the Pan- oped east coast is thick with rain- tanal: Too soggy to hike, the wet forest and lined with white-sand fields of the Pantanal are perfect beaches. See chapter 7. for exploring by horseback. And if • Hike or Bike the Chapada Dia- you like it fast, there’s nothing like mantina: These highlands inland galloping through the fields, as a from Salvador have rock forma- flurry of colorful birds scatter and tions similar to the buttes and caiman scurry off underfoot. See mesas of the American Southwest. chapter 15. 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 11

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• Snorkeling in Bonito: The crys- of lush tropical forest. With tal rivers in Bonito offer some of dozens and dozens of falls and the best freshwater snorkeling you trails, it’s not hard to find one all have ever seen, with 9m to 18m for yourself. See chapter 15. (30 ft.–60 ft.) of visibility. Various • Diving in Fernando de Noronha: fish (and the occasional anaconda) Brazil’s best diving is found on can be spotted as you quietly drift this small archipelago off the coast downriver. See chapter 15. of Pernambuco. See dolphins, tur- • Swimming in the Waterfalls of tles, manta rays, and lots of under- Chapada dos Guimarães: The water caves. Crowds are limited, red-rock formations of this mini- because only 420 visitors are canyon hide some spectacular allowed on the island at any given waterfalls nestled in small stands time. See chapter 16.

4 The Best Encounters with Wildlife • Go, Turtles, Go! (Bahia): From • Butterflies in Iguaçu: Everyone mid-February to April you have a talks about the falls; few mention good chance to watch turtle the butterflies. The lush rainforest hatchings at Praia do Forte provides the perfect environment Tamar’s turtle project. See how for many colorful species, and these tiny sea turtles crawl out of everywhere you go there are lovely the egg, and cheer them on as they butterflies aflutter. Hard to miss is waddle to the ocean for their first the metallic-blue Morpho butter- swim. See chapter 8. fly; it’s about the size of your • Caiman Spotting (the Amazon): hand. See chapter 14. Spotting caimans (alligators native • Red Araras (the Pantanal): The to South America) involves setting sunset over the red-rock formations out in a canoe after the sun has set. in the Chapada dos Guimarães, Boating through the dark Amazon north of Cuiabá, is a magical expe- forest is quite an experience, but rience in itself. Even more special nothing quite prepares you for the is the view of scarlet macaws work- sight of those caiman eyes that ing the thermals off the sheer cliffs light up in the beam of the spot- in the warm glow of the setting light. See chapter 12. sun. See chapter 15.

5 The Best Museums • Museu Internacional de Arte Naif beaches, and neighborhood cafes. do Brasil (Rio de Janeiro; & 021/ See p. 104. 2205-8612; www.museunaif.com. • Museu de Arte Sacra (Mariana; br): Don’t miss this little museum, & 031/3557-2516): One of the located just a few hundred yards best collections of Sacred Art in from the Corcovado tram station. Brazil can be found in the small The practitioners of naïve art (also town of Mariana, just outside of called primitive or ingénue art) Ouro Prêto. The vast collection of paint from the heart, creating col- impressive gold and silver works is orful and expressive drawings. Vis- displayed in a gorgeous old colo- itors will recognize many popular nial mansion. See p. 170. scenes from Cariocas’s daily life— • Monument to Latin America a soccer game at the Maracanã (São Paulo; & 011/3823-9611; stadium, the samba parade, the www.memorial.org.br): Designed 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 12

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by famed Brazilian architect Oscar monastery adjoining the Igreja de Niemeyer, the monument is, well, Santa Teresa, a simple, beautiful so Niemeyer—shy of a visit to building that itself counts as a Brasilia, it’s the best place to see work of art. The collection Brazilian Modernism in all its includes oil paintings, oratorios concrete austerity. See p. 213. (small cabinets containing a cruci- • Pinacoteca do Estado (São fix or saint image), and amazing Paulo; & 011/229-9844): The silver work. See p. 262. Pinacoteca in São Paulo is the • Forte das Cinco Pontas/Recife place to come for anyone who City Museum (Recife; & 084/ wants to see Brazilian art. The 3224-8492): Originally built by museum has an excellent collec- the Dutch in 1630 and rebuilt tion of Brazilian art from the 19th by the Portuguese in 1677, the and 20th centuries, including fort today has been magnificently works by Alfredo Ceschiatti, the restored; you can wander the artist who designed many of the ramparts and explore at will. The sculptures in Brasilia. See p. 218. city museum, which takes up two • Museu de Arte Sacra (Salvador; wings of the fort, is well done. & 071/243-6310): One of the Two whole (air-conditioned) finest museums in Salvador, the rooms are devoted to the Dutch Arte Sacra displays one of Brazil’s period, and there’s a wealth of best collections of Catholic art. maps and drawings. See p. 309. The artifacts are shown in the

6 The Best Festivals & Celebrations Well, Carnaval—that’s an obvious year in Ibirapuera Park (the next choice (and already covered under two take place in 2004 and 2006). “The Most Unforgettable Travel Expe- Contact the Fundação Bienal de riences,” above). Here are some other São Paulo (& 011/5574-5922). favorites: See chapter 7. • Reveillon/New Year’s Celebration • Washing of the Steps of Bon- (Rio de Janeiro): Close to 2 mil- fim Church (Salvador): One of lion people gather for one of the the most important religious cere- most spectacular New Year’s cele- monies in Salvador takes place brations in the world. It starts on on the third Thursday of January the evening of December 31 and when hundreds of women in continues well into the morning traditional Bahian dress form a of January 1. The main event takes procession and carry perfumed place on Copacabana Beach—live water to wash the church steps; music, fireworks, and the muted 800,000 onlookers and revelers Candomblé religious ceremonies. accompany them. For details con- For details contact Riotur (& 021/ tact Bahiatursa (& 071/321- 2217-7575; www.rio.rj.gov.br/ 2463; www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br). riotur) or Alô Rio (& 021/2542- See chapter 8. 8080). See chapter 4. • Celebration of Yemanjá, the • São Paulo Bienal (São Paulo): A Goddess of the Sea (Salvador): must-see for lovers of art, theater, On February 2, watch the devotees music, and architecture, the Bienal throughout Brazil offer flowers, is the biggest arts event in Latin perfumes, and jewelry to the sea. America. It takes place every even Celebrated on the beach with 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 13

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music and food. The largest cele- largest passion play takes place at bration takes place in Salvador on Nova Jerusalem, just outside of Praia Vermelha. For details contact Recife in the Northeast of Brazil. Bahiatursa (& 071/321-2463; Performances are daily in the 10 www.bahiatursa.ba.gov.br). See days leading up to Easter. For chapter 8. details contact Recife Tourist • The Passion Play (Nova Jerusalem, Information (& 081/3462-4960 near Recife): South America’s or 081/3341-6090). See chapter 9.

7 The Best Views • Rio at Your Feet: Whether you city, but of the bay and most spec- hike, drive, or take the cogwheel tacular at sunset when the red tram (our preferred method) to glowing ball drops just behind Ita- the top of Corcovado Mountain, parica Island, casting a deep red the view from just below Christ’s glow over the sparkling ocean. See toes is stunning. The 360-degree chapter 8. view of Rio de Janeiro is awesome. • The TV Tower in Brasilia: It fig- See chapter 4. ures that in a modern town the • Ruin Park (Rio de Janeiro): One views are high-tech. The TV of the most enjoyable lookouts in Tower, in the center of the Eixo Rio is in the quaint hilltop neigh- Monumental, offers spectacular borhood of Santa Teresa. Half the views up and down the main attraction is getting up there on the avenue, aligning buildings the way old rickety trams. Climb the ruins they were meant for architects to of this old mansion and explore see them. The famous big sky sun- the catwalks, walkways, and lad- sets of Brasilia make the view even ders that connect the floors, all the more impressive, lending a hint of way to the top for one of Rio’s best color to the pale concrete of the free views. See chapter 4. buildings. See chapter 13. • Sugarloaf (Rio de Janeiro): It may • Banespa Tower (São Paulo): The be the most visited tourist attrac- best view of the biggest city in tion in town—and tacky as hell— South America is from atop the but views over the bay and the Banespa Tower. Ascending to its ocean beaches are tough to beat. If 35th-floor observation deck, you you don’t want to be seen board- get an incredible view—high-rise ing the silly tram, you can always towers, 360 degrees of them, fill- hoof it up. See chapter 4. ing every inch of land for as far as • Elevator Lacerda (Salvador): The the eye can see. Even better, it’s cheapest ride in town (only free. See chapter 7. US5¢), this Art Deco elevator • Peering into Iguaçu Falls: Get as whisks you from the lower town close as you can to the waterfalls at of Salvador to the historic heart of Iguaçu and the power of the water the city. Views of the bay and the is hypnotizing. Watch for those city are fantastic but quick. Linger cute swifts that manage to sneak at the top of the elevator platform in behind the falls. See chapter 14. to savor the views, or splurge and • The Lookout at Araras Eco take another trip. See chapter 8. Lodge (Pantanal): A rickety • Farol da Barra (Salvador): The wooden platform high above the view at the foot of the lovely light- Pantanal provides sweeping views house on Barra beach is not of the of the surrounding fields. Monkeys 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 14

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play in the trees—and if you have spoonbills, and storks fly by in the the time to sit patiently, you’ll see greatest nature show on earth. See hyacinth macaws, toucans, roseate chapter 15.

8 The Best Hotels • The Copacabana Palace (Rio de • Sheraton Rio Hotel & Towers Janeiro; & 0800/211-533 or (Rio de Janeiro; & 0800/210- 021/2548-7070): Fred and Gin- 750 or 021/2274-1122): The ger didn’t dance just anywhere Sheraton Rio is the only hotel that’s when they went “flying down to really on the beach. No crossing Rio.” The Copacabana Palace is the street; just walk down the steps Brazil’s most famous and glam- and you’re on the sand. See p. 64. orous hotel, standing beautiful on • Unique (São Paulo; & 011/ the country’s most famous beach. 3055-4700): Extraordinary high See p. 68. design, rooms and suites featuring • Hotel Novo Mundo (Rio de the cleanest-of-clean white-on- Janeiro; & 0800/253-355 or 021/ white decor, luscious bedding, 2557-6226): For that perfect post- sparking bathrooms with Jacuzzi card view of Rio’s Aterro Park, the tubs, a plethora of room gadgets, Gloria Marina, and the Bay of plus a rooftop view of the Guanabara against the backdrop Avenida Paulista’s power skyscrap- of the Pão de Açucar, book the ers and lush green Ibirapuera park. Suite Mar on the top floor of the See p. 202. Hotel Novo Mundo. See p. 76. • Marian Palace (São Paulo; • Hotel Sofitel (Rio de Janeiro; & 0800/558-433 or 011/228- & 0800/241-232 or 021/2525- 8433): Built in the ’40s by a Pol- 1232): Considered Rio’s best ish princess, the Marian Palace is a hotel, the Sofitel combines old- lovely preserved Art Deco gem. world elegance and style with one Wherever possible the furniture of the city’s best locations, across and finishings (think lampshades, from the Copacabana Fort and carpets, and even the colored-tile steps from Ipanema. See p. 68. bathrooms) have been maintained. • Marina All Suites Hotel (Rio de See p. 199. Janeiro; & 021/2540-4990 or • Tropical Manaus Eco Resort 021/2540-5212): The Marina All (Manaus; & 0800/701-2670 Suites is Rio’s first design hotel; all or 092/659-5000): The Tropical suites are luxuriously furnished. Hotel in Manaus is without a The two-bedroom oceanview Dia- doubt the hotel in town. Set in its mante suite is surely the city’s own piece of rainforest on the most beautiful suite. See p. 64. banks of the Rio Negro, the hotel • Marriott Rio de Janeiro (Rio de is built in an elegant colonial style. Janeiro; & 800/228-9290 in the Rooms are spacious, and the U.S. and Canada, or 021/2254- amenities are top-notch; archery 6500): The Marriott in Copaca- lessons, a zoo, wakeboard lessons, bana opened in May 2001 and has a wave pool, salon, and more await significantly raised the bar for you in the middle of the Amazon. hotels in Brazil. All rooms come See p. 346. with CD players, free mineral • Bourbon Foz do Iguaçu (Foz do water, coffeemakers, and iron and Iguaçu; & 0800/451-010 or board. The staff wins high marks. 045/529-0123): Make sure you See p. 69. don’t forget to see the falls! The 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 15

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Bourbon Hotel has plenty to keep large pools to soak up those rays you busy. Over 3km (2 miles) of or an indoor wave pool and spa trails through orchards and tree for a dreary day. Active types can nurseries are the perfect place to play a game of tennis, try the watch for toucans, butterflies, and climbing wall, and play volleyball parrots. The pool deck has three or soccer. See p. 395.

9 The Best Pousadas • Colonna Park Hotel (Búzios; mansion with its courtyards and & 022/2623-2245): On a hillside walkways was built around tall overlooking two beaches in Búzios, mango trees on the property. This Colonna Park has one of the best oasis of comfort is an ideal home views in town. The elegantly fur- base for exploring the rest of the nished rooms are done in cool island. See p. 238. blue and white, and the best room • Pousada do Boqueirão (Sal- in the house has a deck with views vador; & 071/241-2262): This of both beaches. See p. 158. renovated pousada on the edge of • Pousada do Mondego (Ouro Salvador’s Pelourinho has the Prêto; & 031/3551-2040): Wake charm of the 17th century and the up to the unforgettable view of convenience of the 21st. The view Ouro Prêto’s most famous church, from your personal veranda out of São Francisco de Assis, just outside the Bay of All Saints would be your window. Early in the morn- memorable in whatever century ing the surrounding hills are often you found yourself. See p. 247. shrouded in mist. See p. 173. • Estalagem Alcino (Lençois; • Pousada Tankamana (Petrópolis; &/fax 075/334-1171): Though it & 024/3222-2706): Nestled in looks like an 18th-century manor the hills above Petrópolis, Pousada house, this pousada in the Cha- Tankamana is a breath of fresh air. pada Diamantina is only a few The luxury chalets with Jacuzzi years old. Rooms are lovely; the tubs and fireplaces are perfectly breakfast you’ll remember for the cozy on a cold winter day, just the rest of your life. See p. 289. kind of place to stay put and fin- • Pousada do Amparo (Olinda; ish that book you have been trying & 081/3439-1749): In the heart to read. See p. 165. of Olinda’s old town, Pousada • Solar da Ponte (Tiradentes; do Amaro is a perfectly restored & 032/3355-1255): In the heart 18th-century house. Set on a of Tiradentes, one the most hillside, the views from the rooms charming colonial villages, Pou- and back deck of Olinda, the sada Solar da Ponte is a real ocean below, and Recife in the retreat. The spacious antique fur- background are amazing. Ele- nished rooms look out over the gantly furnished in period-style, cobblestone streets. The lovely the pousada is a real labor of love garden, library, and sitting rooms of the owners. See p. 301. are perfect for a relaxing day. A • Manary Praia Hotel (Natal; yummy breakfast is served in the & 084/219-2900): On the beach dining room overlooking the gar- of Ponta Negra in Natal, the den. See p. 179. Manary Praia offers luxurious • Porto Pacuiba Hotel (Ilhabela; and comfortable accommodations. & 012/3896-2466): Located on The hacienda-style mansion is an Ilhabela, this sprawling wooden excellent home base for exploring 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 16

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some of the best beaches in the the lifestyle of the pantaneiro cow- Northeast. (But you may never boy. Accommodations are rustic get past the swimming pool.) See but the quality of guides, the p. 320. amazing food and unparalleled • Araras Eco Lodge (Pantanal; wildlife are worth it. The owner & 065/682-2800): This lodge is has a history of environmental the best in the Pantanal for work in the region and runs an wildlife viewing and experiencing excellent program. See p. 410.

10 The Best Dining Experiences • Experiencing Feijoada, the sits on Rio’s most beautiful square, National Dish: It’s impossible to the Praça Floriano. Dwarfed by single out one restaurant in all of the National Library, the Museum Brazil for its feijoada. Just try it of Fine Arts, and the National and try it right. Start with a caipir- Theatre, this bar serves up excel- inha (that potent, delicious lime lent cold chopp and a host of and sugar cane drink) and some Brazilian pub food: grilled beef, caldo (soup), followed by steaming spicy sausage, codfish pastries, and hot black beans with all the various manioc fries. Surely that’s enough meats. Side dishes include farofa, to munch on while you take in the cabbage, orange slices, and white views. See p. 81. rice. Dab a bit of malagueta pep- • Colonial Coffee in Rio: For pers on the beans for an extra kick. the most elegant coffee experi- • Street Food: Whether you want ence, visit Confeitaria Colombo prawns, chicken, tapioca pan- (& 021/2221-0107). This 19th- cakes, coconut sweets, or corn on century Belle Epoque establish- the cob, it can all be purchased on ment is one of the most beautiful the street for next to nothing. salons in all of Brazil. See p. 81. Don’t be afraid to try some of the • Italian Cuisine in São Paulo: For best snacks that Brazil has to offer. some of the best Italian food in • All Beef, All the Time! Rodízio the world (well, outside of Italy), churrascarias are all-you-can-eat head to São Paulo’s Massimo meat orgies. The best cuts of beef (& 011/3284-0311). The city’s are served up one after another; try immigrants have created delicious one or two, or try them all. As long new-world interpretations of some as you can take it they dish it out. old-world classics. See p. 206. Our favorite is surely picanha, the • Moquecas in Salvador: You can’t lean, tender rump steak—it will say you’ve been to Salvador with- melt in your mouth. One of the out trying moqueca, the tasty stew country’s most popular restaurants of fresh seafood with coconut is the Porcão, a nationwide chain. milk, lime juice, cilantro, and red Their flagship location is in Rio’s dendê palm oil. In Salvador’s Flamengo neighborhood (& 021/ Pelourinho, try Sorriso da Dadá 2554-8535), with views of the (& 071/321-5883). bay and Sugarloaf Mountain. See • Prawns on Ilhabela: Ilhabela has p. 84. the most succulent, sweet, and • The Best Botequim (Bar): juicy prawns in all of Brazil. Enjoy Location, location, location. Bar them grilled, sautéed, or stuffed & Restaurante Amarelinho’s with cheese; this is as good as they (& 021/2240-8434) large patio come. See chapter 7. 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 17

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• Fine Dining in Porto de Galin- than almost anywhere else in has: Beijupirá (& 081/3552- Brazil, and local chefs make the 2354), in a small resort town in most of the variety. For regional Brazil’s Northeast, is perhaps one cuisine, the city’s two best restau- of the most pleasant little restaurants are the Boulevard Café (Boi rants in the country. The decora- de Boulevard) (& 091/241- tions are whimsical and rustic, the 1476), and Lá em Casa (& 091/ food an inspired Brazilian cuisine 223-1212). See chapter 12. that makes use of fresh seafood, • Eating Fish in the Pantanal: tropical fruits, and spices. See Anywhere in the Pantanal you can p. 315. try the phenomenal bounty of the • The Regional Cuisine of Belém. world’s largest floodplain. Paçu, Located in the Tropics, on the dourado, and pintado are just a few Amazon River but at the mouth of of the best catches. In Cuiabá, visit the ocean, Belém has access to a Peixaria Popular (& 065/322- richer assortment of ingredients 5471). See p. 408.

11 The Best Markets • Babilônia Feira Hype (Rio de The city’s Japanese residents cele- Janeiro; & 021/2236-7195): brate their heritage with an excel- Located in the Jockey Club, the lent and inexpensive selection of Babilônia Hippy Fair is an arts- Japanese cuisine and arts and and-crafts market where you can crafts. See p. 223. listen to music, get a shiatsu mas- • Mercado Modelo (Salvador; sage, design a henna tattoo, buy a & 071/243-6543): Souvenir nose ring, get yourself pierced, junkies will think they’ve died and and more (there’s more?). See gone to heaven. Located in the for- p. 132. mer customs building, this market • Feirarte (Rio de Janeiro): This has around 300 merchants selling crafts market on Rio’s most his- a large variety of souvenirs: leather toric square features a range of goods, hammocks, instruments, artists showcasing their handi- masks, carvings, paintings, lace, work. There’s leatherwork, ceram- terra-cotta figurines, and jewelry. ics, glass, and silver, not to mention See p. 262. food and drink stands and less- • Mercado Adolpho Lisboa (Man- talented vendors peddling more aus; & 092/232-5073): The touristy souvenirs. See p. 133. Adolpho Lisboa is a beautiful • Antiques Fair (São Paulo): Every iron-and-glass copy of the now- Sunday from 10am to 5pm there’s demolished market hall in Les an antiques fair in the open space Halles, Paris. It’s a great place to beneath the MASP building on see exotic Amazonian fish, fruits, Avenida Paulista. Dealers are reg- and vegetables. A number of stalls istered, and the quality of the have indigenous handicrafts at wares is often good. See p. 216. reasonable prices. See p. 350. • Japanese Market (São Paulo). • The Ver-o-Peso Market (Belém; One of the largest Asian street mar- no phone). The Ver-o-Peso is a kets takes place every Sunday on vast waterside cornucopia featur- the Praça da Liberdade (next to ing outrageously strange Amazon the Liberdade metrô stop) in São fish, hundreds of species of Ama- Paulo’s Liberdade neighborhood. zon fruits found nowhere else, 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 18

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traditional medicine love potions, duced in the Amazon, all of it and just about anything else pro- cheap, cheap, cheap. See p. 371.

12 The Best Nightlife • Arco do Teles (Rio de Janeiro): in Brazil, Pelourinho transforms Tucked away in an alley just off itself into one big music venue the Praça XV, the Arco de Teles every night of the week. With reveals perfectly preserved colonial dozens of cafes and bars there is two-story walk-ups set on narrow always a new band or singer to cobblestone streets, lined with check out, and a few of the squares restaurants and cafes. With over have stages set up for performances. 15 bars and botequins it doesn’t Two of the most popular venues for matter which one you pick; walk concerts are the Praça Quincas around and see what’s doing. If you Berro D’Agua and the Largo Pedro get there after 10pm you’ll be lucky Archanjo. See chapter 8. to find a seat at all. See chapter 4. • Rua do Bom Jesus (Recife): • Carioca da Gema (Rio de Janeiro; Recife’s historic downtown is & 021/2221-0043): One of the packed with bars and restaurants hottest nightlife spots in the city, that radiate off of Rua do Bom Carioca da Gema offers some of Jesus. Free concerts add to the the finest bossa nova and samba. entertainment; on Sundays there’s Located just steps from the Lapa a street market with good quality aqueduct, Carioda da Gema is one crafts. One of Old Recife’s nicest of the many small music venues in bars is the Arsenal do Chopp this funky bohemian neighbor- (& 081/3224-6259). Most tables hood. The best night to come is are spread out on the sidewalk, Thursday. See p. 139. leaving you in the middle of the • Rua das Pedras (Búzios): The action. See p. 311. hottest beach resort close to Rio, • Ponta Negra (Manaus): The most Búzios is the place if you’re on a happening nightlife spot in Man- mission for a night out. Nightlife aus is Ponta Negra Beach. Even central is on the Rua das Pedras when the beach completely disap- where the pubs, bars, discos, and pears in the wet season, the action restaurants open on weekends along the waterfront continues, until 3 or 4 in the morning. One with regular concerts and events. of the most popular spots is the Many restaurants and bars line the Mexican bar and disco Zapata, riverfront. See p. 346. very busy during vacations and • Rua das Tabajaras (Fortaleza): weekends. See p. 160. One of the liveliest nightlife areas • Rabo do Peixe (São Paulo; in Fortaleza is this narrow street & 011/3845-2296): If there is that parallels the waterfront in such a thing as a typical Brazilian Praia de Iracema. On Monday pub, this is it. Located on a street nights, Piratas (Rua dos Tabajaras corner, the patio fans out on all 325, & 085/219-8030) is the sides, and tables are packed every place to be, and even though the day. A great spot to kick off your crowd consists of mostly tourists evening with a cold beer and the it’s a great party. On any other best picanha in town. See p. 234. night of the week the street is • Pelourinho (Salvador). One of packed with people heading out the most happening nightlife areas for dinner or drinks. See p. 339.