01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 6 1 The Best of Brazil There’s a joke Brazilians like to tell: When the world was created, one of the archangels peered over God’s shoulder at the work in progress and couldn’t help noticing that one country had been especially favored. “You’ve given everything to Brazil,” the archangel said. “It has the longest beaches, the largest river, the biggest forest, the best soil. The weather’s always warm and sunny, with no floods, hurricanes, or natural disasters at all. Don’t you think that’s a little unfair?” “Ah,” God replied, “just wait until you see the people I’m putting there.” Accuracy rarely comes with a punch line, but there’s a significant grain of truth in that tale. Brazil as a nation is unusually blessed. Five thousand miles of coastline—some of it packed with cafes and partygoers, but long stretches bliss- fully empty. Rainforests and wetlands teem with exotic critters. Some of the old- est cities and civic architecture in the New World (and one of the newest cities in the entire world) are here. Restaurants match the snobbiest standards, with regional cuisines that have yet to be discovered in culinary capitals like New York or L.A. Music lovers could make Brazil a lifetime study. And let’s not forget a lit- tle thing called Carnaval. And about those Brazilians: They work as hard as anyone in the First World, and many a good deal harder. In recent years Brazil has devoted time and resources to improving its tourism infrastructure, reflected in the new airports, hotels, and inns that have sprung up around the country. Yet no one could accuse Brazilians of worshipping efficiency. They’d much rather get along than get things done; the goal is, above all, harmony. Harmony can mean an entire Sunday spent watching soccer, or afternoons off for quality time with your buddies at the beach. It can mean countless hours of effort for a single night’s party. But above all, harmony mandates never taking anything all that seriously. And at this, Brazilians excel. Read on to discover some of the best this country has to offer. 1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences • Attend Carnaval in Rio: The and food, drink, and eye candy will biggest party in the world; whether come to you. See chapter 4. you dance it on the streets, watch • Watch a Soccer Game at Mara- thousands participate with their canã Stadium: Nothing can pre- elaborate costumes in the samba pare you for a game at the largest parade, or attend the fairy-tale stadium in the world. Up to Copacabana Palace ball. It’s the one 100,000 fans sing, dance, and drum event not to miss! See chapters 2 for hours in one of the biggest par- and 4. ties in town. See chapter 4. • Be the Girl or Boy from Ipanema: • Stroll the Streets of Ouro Prêto: Rio may have other beaches, but Ouro Prêto’s cobblestone streets Ipanema is still the one with the haven’t changed much since the best people-watching. Grab a spot 18th century. Over a dozen 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 7 THE BEST BEACHES 7 baroque churches and beautifully sharply with the blue sky and preserved colonial architecture dot sparkling ocean. Sunsets cast a the hills of this charming town. glow of pure gold over the dunes. See chapter 5. See chapter 10. • Get to Know Pelourinho: The • Kayak in the Amazon: To explore restored historical center of Sal- the rainforest in depth, nothing vador is a treasure of baroque beats a slow descent of an Amazon churches, colorful colonial archi- tributary; the kayak provides the tecture, steep cobblestone streets, freedom to view the rainforest at and large squares. See chapter 8. leisure, guides explain the work- • Hear the Drummers in Pelô: At ings of this ecosystem, and cooks night the historic heart of Salvador prepare meals of delicious Ama- comes alive with music. Most zon fish. See chapter 12. impressive are the Blocos Afro, the • Admire the Modernist Architec- all-percussion bands that create a ture of Brasilia: Built from rhythm and beat with their drums scratch in a matter of years on the so intense it sends shivers down red soil of the dry cerrado, Brasilia your spine. See chapter 8. is an oasis of modernism in • Hit the Waves in Porto de Gal- Brazil’s interior. Marvel at the inhas: This casual laid-back tropi- clean lines and functional forms cal resort of white beaches is the and admire some of the best pub- perfect spot to learn to surf. You’ll lic art in the country. See chap- never get cold, while steamed crab ter 13. and fresh tropical juices between • Get Drenched at Amazing waves do wonders to keep you Iguaçu Falls: These falls consist of 1 going. See chapter 9. 275 cataracts along a 2.5km (1 ⁄2- • Watch the Sunset Over the mile) stretch of the Iguaçu River. Dunes in Genipabu: White as The water’s power mesmerizes as snow, the sand dunes of Geni- you stare into the roiling caul- pabu, north of Natal, contrast drons. See chapter 14. 2 The Best Beaches • Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro: Yes, rutted track, but the views are this is one of the most urban more than worth it. See chapter 7. beaches in the world, but it’s still • Morro de São Paulo, Bahia: The one of the country’s prime tan- perfect island getaway, Morro de ning spots. The long stretch of São Paulo is only a 2-hour boat white sand is perfect for observing ride from Salvador. The rustic set- the tan and lovely (male and ting, car-free streets, and laid-back female alike). Or watch a game of atmosphere are perfect for relax- volleyball while having a beer and ing. The calm, warm waters are some fresh seafood; if you feel like excellent for swimming or snor- it, go for a swim or a stroll. See keling. See chapter 8. chapter 4. • Porto de Galinhas, Pernambuco: • Praia dos Castelhanos, Ilhabela: Unlike so many beaches in Brazil, Ilhabela’s prime unspoiled beach is development in Porto de Galinhas long and wild and completely has been kept resolutely small undeveloped; mountains covered scale. No high-rises mar the in untouched Atlantic rainforest unpretentious town of Porto de provide a stunning backdrop. Galinhas, which boasts perhaps Access is by boat or over a bumpy four streets—enough for a dozen 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 8 8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BRAZIL Brazil 60° W PANAMAPA N A M A Georgetown GUYANAG U Y A N A MedellínMedellMedellín S VENEZUELAV E N E Z U E L A Paramaribo Cayenne 80° W E BogotáBogotBogotá FRENCH D R GUIANAG SURINAME io U I A GUIANA A T L A N T I C N Or N A (FRANCE) ino BoaBoa VistaVista ANDESA co H O C E A N COLOMBIAC O L O M B I A I G H CaliCali L A N D S AMAPÁ RORAIMARORAIMA Macapá Ne g R i o r o QuitoQuito S I N or A 0° Equat See Chapter 12 B u Belém R g São Luís i ManausManaus n ECUADORE C U A D O R Santarém o i T A o n s X o GuayaquilGuayaquil m a z ó c j a a o IquitosIquitos i n p t AMAZONASAMAZONAS R a a i n r T N e i s MARANHÃO CEARÁ d o O a i PARÁ Teresina Z M R RIO GRANDE A o M i DO NORTE Natal A R PA R A Í B A João PIAUÍ Pessoa B R A Z I L Recife PPôrtoôrtorto PERNAMBUCO c o VelhoVelho ci s RioRio n Maceió PERUP E R U BrancoBranco a TOCANTINS r ALAGOAS F SERGIPE RONDÔNIARRONDONDÔNIANIA o ã Aracaju MATO S GROSSO o i BAHIA LimaLima R CuscoCusco Salvador i ANDESA a u N g B R A Z I L I A N D a r Cuiabá E a S P H I G H L A N D S Cáceres GOIÁS LaLa PazPaz Goiânia Brasília ArequipaArequipa R LakeL a k e BOLIVIAB O L I V I A TiticacaTi t i c a c a P A N T A N A L CochabambaCochabamba MINAS GERAIS Corumbá Uberlândia Belo Campo ESPÍRITO PotosíPotosPotosí Horizonte Grande á SANTO n a MATO GROSSO r Vitória a DO SUL P SÃO 20° S ATACAMAA T A C A M A i o PAULO RIO DE R São PACIFICP A C I F I C DESERTD E S E R T JANEIRO PARAPA R A G U A Y Paulo OCEANO C E A N Rio de Janeiro AntofagastaAntofagasta PARANÁ Santos Asunción orn Capric Foz do Iguaçu of E Tropic Curitiba L S I SANTA E CATARINA H D ResistenciaResistencia Florianópolis C A T L A N T I C N á n a O C E A N ANDESA RIO GRANDE r r a ARGENTINAA R G E N T I N A a DO SUL P P Pôrto Alegre o i SantaSanta FeFe R Rio Grande URUGUAY ValparaisoValparaiso SantiagoSantiago Buenos Aires 80° W 60° W Montevideo 01 55686x Ch01.qxd 3/19/04 9:08 AM Page 9 THE BEST BEACHES 9 ° PA N A M A GeorgetownGeorgetown 40 W G U Y A N A Medellín S V E N E Z U E L A ParamariboParamaribo CayenneCayenne E Bogotá FRENCHFRENCH D R G SURINAMESURINAME io U I A GUIANAGUIANA ATLANTICA T L A N T I C N Or N A (FRANCE)(FRANCE) ino Boa Vista A co HIGHLANDSH OCEANO C E A N C O L O M B I A I G H Cali L A N D S AMAPÁAMAPAMAPÁ RORAIMA MacapMacapáMacapá R i Ne g r See Chapter 12 o o Equator ° Quito S I N 0 B A u u BelémBBelelém R g g SãoSão LLuísLuuís i n Manaus n E C U A D O R SantarSSantarémantarém o See Chapter 11 i T A o n s X o Guayaquil m a z ó c See Chapter 16 j a a o Fortaleza Iquitos i n p t AMAZONAS R a a i n See Chapter 10 r T N e i s MARANHÃOMMARANHARANHÃO CCEARCEARÁEARÁ d o Fernando O a i PARPPARÁARÁ TTeresinaeresina Z M R RIORIO GRANDEGRANDE de Noronha A o M i DODO NORTENORTE NatalNatal A R PARAPPARAÍBAA R A Í BAB A JoJJoãooão PPIAUÍPIAUIAUÍ PessoaPessoa BRAZILB R A Z I L RecifeRecife Pôrto PERNAMBUCOPERNAMBUCO s c o Velho ci See Chapter 9 Rio n MaceiMMaceióaceió P E R U Branco a TOCANTINSTOCANTINS r See Chapter 8 ALAGOASALAGOAS F SERGIPESERGIPE RONDÔNIA o ã AracajuAracaju MATOMATO S GROSSOGROSSO o i BAHIABAHIA Lima See Chapter 15 R Cusco SalvadorSalvador i See Chapter 13 A a u N g BRAZILIANB R A Z I L I A N D a r CuiabCCuiabáuiabá E a S P HIGHLANDSH I G H L A N D S CCáceresáccereseres GOIGGOIÁSOIÁS La Paz GoiGGoiâniaoiâniania BrasBBrasíliarasílialia R Arequipa R L a k e B O L I V I A Ti t i c a c a PANTANALP A N T