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Primary Cool THE TORONTO CROP PAYMENT A LOOK AT SAM REID AND FOUR OTHER RACE UP-AND-COMING ACTORS FRONT-ROW FOCUS AMAZON IS SET TO LAUNCH ITS WHO GRABBED THE THERE WAS PLENTY OF STAR POWER LOGIN AND PAY WITH AMAZON SPOTLIGHT AT THE TORONTO FRONT-AND-CENTER AT THE LONDON SHOWS. PAGE 7 SYSTEM IN EUROPE. PAGE 2 FILM FESTIVAL. PAGE 10 ENDING READY-TO-WEAR Gaultier to Focus On Couture, Beauty By MILES SOCHA PARIS — Jean Paul Gaultier is opening a new chapter in a long and unconventional fashion career. On Monday, the ebullient 62-year-old said he would halt his women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR D devote himself to couture and the perfume business it WWD powers, along with special projects. While sounding sanguine about the retrenchment, after 38 years in rtw, he took a swipe at the relent- less pace of fashion and the associated business pres- sures, saying it saps creativity and ultimately robs consumers of newness. “For some time, I have found true fulfi llment in working on the haute couture and it allows me to ex- press my creativity and my taste for research and ex- perimentation. At the same time, the world of ready-to- wear has evolved considerably. Commercial constraints, as well as the frenetic pace of collections, don’t leave any freedom, nor the necessary time to fi nd fresh ideas and to innovate,” he said in a letter addressed to WWD. “This is a new beginning, I will be able to express again my creativity fully and without constraints,” he wrote, hinting that he would now pursue “certain col- laborations that I have not yet had time to explore.” In an interview, Gaultier said he’s witnessed the fashion industry accelerate to the point where even designer collections are forced to adopt an industri- al pace and scale. What’s more, they must compete against fast-fashion behemoths like Zara and H&M, which offer compelling fashions at an attractive price. SEE PAGE 12 Macy’s Unveils String Of Omni Initiatives By SHARON EDELSON NEW YORK — Macy’s Inc. keeps pumping up its om- nichannel efforts. On Monday, the department store group unveiled a string of initiatives and technologies ranging from con- sumer-facing smart fi tting rooms to operational innova- SPRING 2015 tions like radio frequency identifi cation pilot programs. “We had a lot going on in our company for several LONDON years on the subject of omnichannel growth and de- COLLECTIONS velopment,” said Terry J. Lundgren, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Macy’s Inc. “We recognize the consumer is starting the shopping experience on her phone more and more and doing research of where she wants to shop. They want to come into our stores and try on a dress or a shoe or touch a product. They may go home and buy it on their desktop.” Lundgren said omnichannel is “becoming a bigger and bigger part of our business,” but that the compa- Primary Cool ny has stopped trying to break out channels “because we can’t distinguish any more what is a store sale or LONDON — The British capital hums with young energy, its runways included. On Monday, a mobile sale. It’s blurred. We know customers are Christopher Bailey unleashed a spunky, color-drenched Burberry Prorsum collection online shopping and looking at specifi c items and we grounded by earthy sandals and patchwork sneakers. Here, at center, a dress printed with know that same customer used his or her Macy’s card to purchase the item in a store. “Insects of Britain” with a boxy bag. For more on the London shows, see pages 4 to 7. “We’ve been working on so many initiatives and listening to the customer,” Lundgren added. “The technology vendors are coming to us with their ideas and thoughts because we’re one of the premier om- nichannel retailers.” Among the items revealed Monday were: ■ Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s will begin to use Apple Inc.’s new mobile payment system Apple Pay. ■ The two chains are unveiling a new mobile wallet function. ■ Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s will test same-day delivery. ■ Macy’s has developed a new technology, Macy’s Image Search, at its Idea Lab in San Francisco. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 9 2 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2014 WWD.COM Amazon Begins Login and Pay in Europe THE BRIEFING BOX Mobile payments are a hot issue suit — signals the e-tail giant’s ef- By RACHEL STRUGATZ of late: Apple revealed that Apple forts to become the go-to payment IN TODAY’S WWD Pay will come out next month and platform online. AMAZON will today open its Login Jack Dorsey’s mobile point-of-sale Jones also sees this as a pow- and Pay With Amazon system in system Square secured a $100 mil- erful tool in battling cart aban- Europe, the streamlined payment lion investment on Monday, bring- donment — as the ease of using and checkout solution that made ing its total raised so far to several existing payment information its debut in the U.S. in October. hundred million dollars. Twitter eradicates several steps in the e- The tool allows for consum- even rolled out a “buy” button on commerce process. ers to use their Amazon cre- Sept. 8, where brands from Home “It’s specifically in the fashion dentials when purchasing from Depot to Burberry can sell their industry that the cart abandon- non-Amazon sites, eliminating products on the largely mobile so- ment rate is high. If you com- the need to reregister and input cial network. pare it to food and drinks, for personal information every time It’s apparent all the major example, it is almost 20 percent a consumer shops at a different players want a piece of the pay- higher,” Jones said. e-tailer. The multichannel ser- ment sector, which leaves eBay’s According to data from vice is optimized to work across subsidiary PayPal, the current Redshift Research, 61 percent of desktops, smartphones and tab- leader in the space, under in- consumers contended they would lets, and with a few clicks, al- likely abandon a cart if the pay- lows users to purchase from Web ment process took longer than 10 MANAGEMENT sites with their Amazon informa- minutes. This number dips to 27 ONE tion. Existing U.S. partners for percent if the process takes more OF the system are AllSaints, Guess 61% than five minutes — but the ma- Model call: and Giorgio Armani, as well jority of those surveyed said less Adesuwa Aighewi. For as in-flight Internet provider than two minutes is the key time more, see WWD.com. COURTESY SHARE OF CONSUMERS THAT Gogo. In the U.K., participat- window in which an online pur- PHOTO ing retailers include AllSaints, SAID THEY WOULD ABANDON A chase should be completed. Secretsales.com, Moss Bros., CART IF THE PAYMENT PROCESS Since AllSaints began to use Printed.com, Overclockers UK, TOOK LONGER THAN 10 MINUTES, Login and Pay With Amazon on its Macy’s keeps pumping up its omnichannel efforts and on FulhamBrassOnline and Paddock ACCORDING TO REDSHIFT RESEARCH. site, checkouts have been reduced Monday unveiled a string of initiatives and technologies. PAGE 1 by about one minute and 10 sec- Spares. Engelhorn, Babyartikel, Moebelisten, Klimaworld and onds. Also, within days of adopting Jean Paul Gaultier said he would halt his women’s and men’s Hirschel-Cosmetic use the prod- creasing pressure to innovate. the Amazon service, nearly one- ready-to-wear production and devote himself to couture and the uct throughout Germany. The payment site underwent a quarter — or 24 percent — of all PAGE 1 “In the States, some retailers re-branding in April — equipped online purchases were made with perfume business it powers. have seen as much as three times with a new logo for the first time Login and Pay. Conversion rates in- growth on new accounts since in- in seven years — and also entered creased by 34 percent in the U.S., Entities affiliated with Sears Holdings Corp. have entered into troducing Login and Pay,” said 10 more markets this summer, and in the U.K., average online or- a short-term loan for $400 million from affiliates of Edward S. Annemarie Jones, director of exter- including Belarus, Macedonia, ders were 15 percent higher than Lampert’s ESL Investments Inc. PAGE 7 nal payments, Europe, for Amazon. Moldova, Monaco, Montenegro, other digital payment methods. Of the sellers that implemented Nigeria, Paraguay and Zimbabwe. “We don’t see it as only a pay- Neither the investment community nor Ann Inc.’s management Login and Pay, many saw 60 percent Amazon Payments’ expansion ment solution. It [provides] more was moved by a second push by activist investors Engine of their new customers registering into Europe — available in the than just the checkout by having the Capital and Red Alder to effect a sale of the retailer. PAGE 8 on their Web sites using Amazon to U.K. and Germany upon launch login function and the payment so- complete their transactions. with other countries to follow lution in one product,” Jones said. A couple of fashion brands are striking back at an animal rights group that claimed the firms used rabbit fur farms where widespread abuse allegedly took place. PAGE 8 Workers United Sets Cambodia Wage Campaign David Meister is expected to resume shipping his collection WASHINGTON — Workers United, an affiliate of Levi Strauss said in May that it is scaling back on and broaden the offerings next year through a new licensing the Service Employees International Union, is orders in Cambodia due to political instability and program.
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