THE TORONTO CROP PAYMENT A LOOK AT SAM REID AND FOUR OTHER RACE UP-AND-COMING ACTORS FRONT-ROW FOCUS AMAZON IS SET TO LAUNCH ITS WHO GRABBED THE THERE WAS PLENTY OF STAR POWER LOGIN AND PAY WITH AMAZON SPOTLIGHT AT THE TORONTO FRONT-AND-CENTER AT THE LONDON SHOWS. PAGE 7 SYSTEM IN EUROPE. PAGE 2 FILM FESTIVAL. PAGE 10

ENDING READY-TO-WEAR Gaultier to Focus On Couture, Beauty

By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Jean Paul Gaultier is opening a new chapter in a long and unconventional fashion career. On Monday, the ebullient 62-year-old said he would halt his women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR D devote himself to couture and the perfume business it WWD powers, along with special projects. While sounding sanguine about the retrenchment, after 38 years in rtw, he took a swipe at the relent- less pace of fashion and the associated business pres- sures, saying it saps creativity and ultimately robs consumers of newness. “For some time, I have found true fulfi llment in working on the haute couture and it allows me to ex- press my creativity and my taste for research and ex- perimentation. At the same time, the world of ready-to- wear has evolved considerably. Commercial constraints, as well as the frenetic pace of collections, don’t leave any freedom, nor the necessary time to fi nd fresh ideas and to innovate,” he said in a letter addressed to WWD. “This is a new beginning, I will be able to express again my creativity fully and without constraints,” he wrote, hinting that he would now pursue “certain col- laborations that I have not yet had time to explore.” In an interview, Gaultier said he’s witnessed the fashion industry accelerate to the point where even designer collections are forced to adopt an industri- al pace and scale. What’s more, they must compete against fast-fashion behemoths like Zara and H&M, which offer compelling fashions at an attractive price. SEE PAGE 12 Macy’s Unveils String Of Omni Initiatives By SHARON EDELSON

NEW YORK — Macy’s Inc. keeps pumping up its om- nichannel efforts. On Monday, the department store group unveiled a string of initiatives and technologies ranging from con- sumer-facing smart fi tting rooms to operational innova- SPRING 2015 tions like radio frequency identifi cation pilot programs. “We had a lot going on in our company for several LONDON years on the subject of omnichannel growth and de- COLLECTIONS velopment,” said Terry J. Lundgren, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Macy’s Inc. “We recognize the consumer is starting the shopping experience on her phone more and more and doing research of where she wants to shop. They want to come into our stores and try on a dress or a shoe or touch a product. They may go home and buy it on their desktop.” Lundgren said omnichannel is “becoming a bigger and bigger part of our business,” but that the compa- Primary Cool ny has stopped trying to break out channels “because we can’t distinguish any more what is a store sale or LONDON — The British capital hums with young energy, its runways included. On Monday, a mobile sale. It’s blurred. We know customers are Christopher Bailey unleashed a spunky, color-drenched Burberry Prorsum collection online shopping and looking at specifi c items and we grounded by earthy sandals and patchwork sneakers. Here, at center, a dress printed with know that same customer used his or her Macy’s card to purchase the item in a store. “Insects of Britain” with a boxy bag. For more on the London shows, see pages 4 to 7. “We’ve been working on so many initiatives and listening to the customer,” Lundgren added. “The technology vendors are coming to us with their ideas and thoughts because we’re one of the premier om- nichannel retailers.” Among the items revealed Monday were: ■ Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s will begin to use Apple Inc.’s new mobile payment system Apple Pay. ■ The two chains are unveiling a new mobile wallet function. ■ Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s will test same-day delivery. ■ Macy’s has developed a new technology, Macy’s Image Search, at its Idea Lab in San Francisco.

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 9 2 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2014 WWD.COM Amazon Begins Login and Pay in Europe THE BRIEFING BOX Mobile payments are a hot issue suit — signals the e-tail giant’s ef- By RACHEL STRUGATZ of late: Apple revealed that Apple forts to become the go-to payment IN TODAY’S WWD Pay will come out next month and platform online. AMAZON will today open its Login Jack Dorsey’s mobile point-of-sale Jones also sees this as a pow- and Pay With Amazon system in system Square secured a $100 mil- erful tool in battling cart aban- Europe, the streamlined payment lion investment on Monday, bring- donment — as the ease of using and checkout solution that made ing its total raised so far to several existing payment information its debut in the U.S. in October. hundred million dollars. Twitter eradicates several steps in the e- The tool allows for consum- even rolled out a “buy” button on commerce process. ers to use their Amazon cre- Sept. 8, where brands from Home “It’s specifically in the fashion dentials when purchasing from Depot to Burberry can sell their industry that the cart abandon- non-Amazon sites, eliminating products on the largely mobile so- ment rate is high. If you com- the need to reregister and input cial network. pare it to food and drinks, for personal information every time It’s apparent all the major example, it is almost 20 percent a consumer shops at a different players want a piece of the pay- higher,” Jones said. e-tailer. The multichannel ser- ment sector, which leaves eBay’s According to data from vice is optimized to work across subsidiary PayPal, the current Redshift Research, 61 percent of desktops, smartphones and tab- leader in the space, under in- consumers contended they would lets, and with a few clicks, al- likely abandon a cart if the pay- lows users to purchase from Web ment process took longer than 10 MANAGEMENT sites with their Amazon informa- minutes. This number dips to 27 ONE tion. Existing U.S. partners for percent if the process takes more OF the system are AllSaints, Guess 61% than five minutes — but the ma- Model call: and Giorgio Armani, as well jority of those surveyed said less Adesuwa Aighewi. For as in-flight Internet provider than two minutes is the key time more, see WWD.com. COURTESY SHARE OF CONSUMERS THAT

Gogo. In the U.K., participat- window in which an online pur- PHOTO ing retailers include AllSaints, SAID THEY WOULD ABANDON A chase should be completed. Secretsales.com, Moss Bros., CART IF THE PAYMENT PROCESS Since AllSaints began to use Printed.com, Overclockers UK, TOOK LONGER THAN 10 MINUTES, Login and Pay With Amazon on its Macy’s keeps pumping up its omnichannel efforts and on FulhamBrassOnline and Paddock ACCORDING TO REDSHIFT RESEARCH. site, checkouts have been reduced Monday unveiled a string of initiatives and technologies. PAGE 1 Spares. Engelhorn, Babyartikel, by about one minute and 10 sec- Moebelisten, Klimaworld and onds. Also, within days of adopting Jean Paul Gaultier said he would halt his women’s and men’s Hirschel-Cosmetic use the prod- creasing pressure to innovate. the Amazon service, nearly one- ready-to-wear production and devote himself to couture and the uct throughout Germany. The payment site underwent a quarter — or 24 percent — of all PAGE 1 “In the States, some retailers re-branding in April — equipped online purchases were made with perfume business it powers. have seen as much as three times with a new logo for the first time Login and Pay. Conversion rates in- growth on new accounts since in- in seven years — and also entered creased by 34 percent in the U.S., Entities affiliated with Sears Holdings Corp. have entered into troducing Login and Pay,” said 10 more markets this summer, and in the U.K., average online or- a short-term loan for $400 million from affiliates of Edward S. Annemarie Jones, director of exter- including Belarus, Macedonia, ders were 15 percent higher than Lampert’s ESL Investments Inc. PAGE 7 nal payments, Europe, for Amazon. Moldova, Monaco, Montenegro, other digital payment methods. Of the sellers that implemented Nigeria, Paraguay and Zimbabwe. “We don’t see it as only a pay- Neither the investment community nor Ann Inc.’s management Login and Pay, many saw 60 percent Amazon Payments’ expansion ment solution. It [provides] more was moved by a second push by activist investors Engine of their new customers registering into Europe — available in the than just the checkout by having the Capital and Red Alder to effect a sale of the retailer. PAGE 8 on their Web sites using Amazon to U.K. and Germany upon launch login function and the payment so- complete their transactions. with other countries to follow lution in one product,” Jones said. A couple of fashion brands are striking back at an animal rights group that claimed the firms used rabbit fur farms where widespread abuse allegedly took place. PAGE 8 Workers United Sets Cambodia Wage Campaign David Meister is expected to resume shipping his collection WASHINGTON — Workers United, an affiliate of Levi Strauss said in May that it is scaling back on and broaden the offerings next year through a new licensing the Service Employees International Union, is orders in Cambodia due to political instability and program. PAGE 8 launching its first major global campaign for “living concerns over workers’ rights. A spokeswoman for wages” on Wednesday in conjunction with an inter- Levi Strauss said Monday that the company has been Demand from buyers national effort to pressure brands and retailers to actively engaged for a year to find a resolution. at yarn and knitwear fair SpinExpo was “Over the past year, individually and collective- increasingly moving beyond big quantities and basics to niche mandate a higher minimum wage in Cambodia. PAGE 9 The union, which represents some 80,000 work- ly with other buyers sourcing in Cambodia, Levi and creative materials. ers at U.S. apparel factories and distribution cen- Strauss & Co. has advocated for the Cambodian ters, laundries and the food services and auto government to institute a methodologically sound Ermenegildo Zegna is collaborating with South Korean parts industries, is mobilizing its members in the and inclusive process for determining the minimum director Chan-wook Park on three short films for Shanghai U.S. and Canada as part of a broader Global Day wage,” she said. “Through this process, we have Fashion Week. PAGE 9 of Action on Cambodian wages on Wednesday that called on the government to find prompt agreement is expected to involve hundreds of demonstrations on a new minimum wage and include a regular re- A look at several of the brightest new talents at the Toronto spanning the globe, from Philadelphia and Toronto, view mechanism to ensure wages keep pace with in- Film Festival, which closed Sunday. PAGE 10 Canada, to London and Phnom Penh. flation and cost of living. When a new minimum wage The IndustriALL Global Union, Uni Global Union, is set in Cambodia, we will ensure our contract sup- ON WWD.COM International Labor Rights Forum, United Students pliers provide to their workers the new wage rate, as Against Sweatshops, Clean Clothes Campaign and well as required overtime premiums and benefits.” Cambodian unions will also take part in the initiative A Wal-Mart spokeswoman said in an e-mail the re- MODEL CALL: Adesuwa Aighewi, the half-Nigerian, half- to raise the minimum wage in that country’s garment tailer is working with leading stakeholders, a coali- Chinese model, is experiencing something of a second industry, according to Jeff Hermanson, director of tion of brands and retailers and the ILO to improve coming. For more, see WWD.com. global strategies for Workers United. Hermanson said working conditions in Cambodia. there will be rallies at stores and distribution centers “As part of those efforts, we support a wage setting in the U.S., Europe and Canada, as well as at several process that is not only transparent, but also institutes Cambodian embassies, demanding that companies a methodologically sound and inclusive process for FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA mandate an increase in Cambodia’s minimum wage to determining the minimum wage; ultimately, however, @ WWD.com/social $177 a month from the current $100 rate. In addition, the responsibility for establishing the minimum wage hundreds of Cambodian garment workers are expected and a regular review mechanism lies with Cambodian TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. to wear green stickers saying they need $177 a month. government,” she said. “We hope that these efforts will WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. “This is the first time that we have taken the address the short and long-term health and stability of COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. initiative to promote a global campaign for a liv- the garment and footwear industries in Cambodia.” VOLUME 208, NO. 57. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2014. 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Burberry Prorsum Tom Ford Christopher Kane

London CollectionsSpring 2015 RUFFLES, ROPE, FLOWERS AND FROU-FROU DOTTED THE BRITISH RUNWAYS.

Burberry Prorsum: Christopher collection from the brand’s chief suede were layered over Tom Ford: Tom Ford worked up sequined tops were reminiscent Bailey donned his rose-tinted creative and now chief executive diaphanous pleated dresses an unapologetic homage to of the velvet hip-huggers and glasses — and beetle-green, officer, who said he was drawn — some strapless and tiered, glam rock for spring — with satin shirts from Ford’s hit cornflower and mimosa lenses, to the idea of rebirth — and to others with high waists. Bee- the focus squarely on the Gucci collections, there was a too — for a collection that the contradiction between the and butterfly-print dresses glam. Models with Joan Jett- harder, more rebellious edge to drew on the joys of a country fragile and the strong. had fluttery tulle panels at the esque shags and kohl-rimmed this outing. spring. There was no sign of Those ideas played out in front, or at the shoulder, while eyes strode out on towering Among the high-octane mud, manure or mosquitoes in hard and soft pairings such printed trenches, their designs platform-soled sandals in a designs was a long-sleeved Bailey’s Eden, only gossamer as wasp-waist denim jackets inspired by vintage nature lineup of superlean, glitter-and- black minidress sewn with fabrics, iridescent surfaces — — some edged in shearling or illustrations, were cinched at sequin-spangled designs. chainmail-like bands of silver and decorative bugs. ostrich feathers, others adorned the waist with soft swathes According to his show notes, leather and a thigh-skimming Runway music was on with glossy leather patches — of tulle. Ford mined his own designs dress that shimmered with gold theme with a live acoustic- and skirts made from swirls Shoes — not fragile by any from the late Nineties for sequins, with cutaway tulle guitar performance by James of pastel tulle or paved with means — were foot-friendly in inspiration — though some of panels at the waist. Bay playing “Clocks Go iridescent yellow paillettes the the form of flat, Birkenstock- the looks also were a nod to Even when Ford turned Forward,” among other songs. size of silver dollars. Jackets like sandals with chunky, Hedi Slimane’s rocker take down the volume, the looks It was a whimsical, sensual done in cropped fur the color multicolored straps, or bright at Saint Laurent. And while were still provocative, as in a — and ultimately wearable — of mimosas or in beetle-green patchwork sneakers. the spray-on, kick flares and black ankle-length skirt, slashed WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2014 5 WWD.COM

Jonathan Saunders Thomas Tait Erdem leaves fluttered on a simple black evening dress. Though some of the silhouettes were girlish, Saunders’ quirky color palette — sky blue, teal, russet brown and black — gave the lineup a subversive edge. As did the flat sandals and shiny, boyish ankle boots, the latter of which Saunders paired with a striking teal-and-black puffball gown, to sweetly rebellious effect.

Thomas Tait: The designer said it all in the notes: “Sometimes only one arm is cold.” It was a lovely bit of British humor from Thomas Tait, the Canadian-born, London-educated designer whose edgy, conceptual show unfolded in a crumbling building on the Strand. Tait, the winner of the inaugural LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize, took his cue from the works of Georges Rousse, the Paris-based visual artist who created a graphic, color-blocked installation in the gutted space, with its exposed wiring and little piles of rubble swept into corners. The lineup — filled with one-sleeve looks — offered up silhouettes both challenging and commercial. Backstage, the designer himself admitted that with all the cutouts, transparency, fluttery fabrics and knits, even fitting the clothes on the models was an adventure. Among the more challenging silhouettes were leather checkerboard skirts — inspired by Rousse’s earlier works — whose panels appeared to hang together precariously, and that require a ballerinalike poise and grace to carry off. Ditto for the silk checkerboard dresses with their delicately fluttering panels — some of them peekaboo. That said, this was a joyous collection, and even the one- armers — such as a tomato pleated leather dress with one long sleeve and a jaunty pink- and-yellow one with a similar off-kilter construction — were eye-catching. More commercial offerings included double-faced silk-satin trousers the color of oyster shells, liquid silk-satin dresses and jackets with two crinkled sleeves.

Erdem: London designers are mad for busy botanical prints this season, including Erdem Moralioglu, who’s as familiar with the contents of a greenhouse as he is with the best FOR MORE SPRING guipure lace Europe has to offer. COVERAGE, SEE His ideas came together beautifully on the runway, WWD.com/ flanked by tropical plants in runway. the vacated, stripped-down Selfridges hotel. British biologist and explorer Marianne North was a GIANNONI GIOVANNI key reference, which explains the strict, Victorian silhouettes

PHOTOS BY that gradually evaporated into a more sultry allure. Fabrics to the thigh to expose sheer on a sweatshirt: flower. His explosions of tulle, spilling spring collection with a became more diaphanous and black stockings. Meanwhile, He’s moved on to rope and out of a tight peplum jacket or charmingly off-kilter air. necklines dipped. “I wanted a finale of evening looks had sprays of tulle for a dressy jutting out of stiff, upturned Showing in the British a lightness to the show,” a subversively seductive feel, collection with a restrained cones on thick viscose cocktail Museum’s Great Court, the Moralioglu said backstage. inspired, Ford said, by Carlo approach to embellishment, dresses, had the mark of Wilson’s designer sent out creations The braided hair, gladiator Mollino’s photographs. A against the grain of what’s lessons: pushing boundaries. that looked handcrafted and sandals and chaste shapes transparent black chiffon top parading on other runways. Both Pleats, which featured in played with volume, which gave brought to mind recent Valentino, was sewn with bondagelike were ideas the Scottish designer that influential floral show of a dolllike feel to some of the a brand that has influenced black sequin bands, while black originally explored during his yore, reappeared as panels exits. A knee-length pouf skirt runways in many fashion capitals. tuxedo pants were paired with master’s studies at Central Saint anchored by metal bars, the was done in orange lamé and Ye t Moralioglu has dibs on fragile a sheer mesh top, embroidered Martins under the late professor ends left drifting over lustrous worn with a neat white shirt femininity, and this collection at the bodice with strategically Louise Wilson, to whom he dresses. These were striking, sprinkled with vinyl cutouts of was true to his aesthetic — and placed metallic flowers. dedicated his spring show. Rope and ended the show on a strong leaves. There were also looks superbly executed. figured as an embroidered note. Wilson would be proud. that bloomed with mille-feuille- Standouts included tiered Christopher Kane: A year ago, motif wrapping pleated slip style organza flowers, as in a gowns in broderie anglaise Christopher Kane may well have dresses, dangling off sheer tops Jonathan Saunders: Jonathan putty-colored top and black and plunging cocktail dresses spawned a major London trend, or trimming knitted lady suits Saunders turned out an pencil skirt stitched with scores in black organza flecked with one he spelled out unequivocally with a whiff of Rue Cambon. approachable and romantic of the flowers, while chiffon fronds. 6 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2014

Giles Deacon: With the sound SPRING 2015 of roaring tigers and chirping Giles Deacon Peter Pilotto Antonio birds welcoming guests Berardi to the show, Giles Deacon LONDON took an adventurous trip COLLECTIONS into the rainforest for his summer collection. Wisely, he stayed away from a literal interpretation and elaborated the theme through his signature style, a combination of playful, cheerful elements with classic silhouettes in a palette of delicate pastels and graphic black and white. He adorned several numbers, including oversize sweaters worn as minidresses and an array of fluid silk dresses, with decorations in the shape of sketched tiger paws. Digitally deconstructed images of tigers gave a fun twist to hyper-chic ballgowns, while a short cape and a girly, flared coat came in a snake-patterned dark jacquard, adding to the theatrical effect. Pretty metallic leather frocks were laser cut and the edges embellished with maxi flower appliqués. The result was not only fresh and charming, but also appealing to the market.

Peter Pilotto: From the psychedelic palette to the decorative folk-art touches, there was a strong Seventies flavor to the collection that designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos served up for spring. They referenced the hippie-craft movement with macramé straps on dresses, paisley motifs and 3-D flowers that adorned almost every piece in the detail- saturated collection. One black organza handkerchief skirt and matching tank top was embroidered with abstract curlicues and further decorated with big, shiny, shattered Perspex paisley “commas.” Homemade patchwork quilts were the inspiration for the pearlescent silk boxes FOR MORE SPRING laminated onto an iridescent COVERAGE, SEE nude organza coat to create a windowpane check that WWD.com/ was further embellished with runway. Perspex rosettes. A group of color-blocked jersey dresses, cut through with violet or orange holographic sequin panels, saw the designers playing with felt significant all the same. sleeveless silk dress with fluid sporty sleeveless dress and into Farrier put her own stamp on asymmetry and draping, and Berardi used flouncy fabrics skirts was inset with colored lightweight silk sweaters. the clothes. touching on the disco era. The such as organza and taffeta for shapes in mint, orange and few trousers in the mix were dreamy dresses, including one blue, while a navy organza Issa: A breezy, playful mood Huishan Zhang: With a firm nod gently flared below the knee. blush silk gown with encrusted gown was embroidered blew through this collection, to the ladylike silhouettes of Visually, there was a lot to crystals and a sheer train at in textured velvet with a creative director Blue Farrier’s the Fifties, Huishan Zhang take in here but, for the most the back. scribblelike pattern. sophomore runway outing for seemed to have the debutante part, eye fatigue was staved His hourglass shapes were the label. The strong lineup daughters of his sophisticated off by the simple silhouettes still in evidence: A couple of Pringle of Scotland: Designer revolved around unstructured, client base in his sights this — trim bodices and neat bone-crushing dresses in a Massimo Nicosia took to the sea easy silhouettes. Silk dresses season, as he continued on A-line skirts in black denim vibrant floral jacquard offered — and the pool — for this spare — some with pockets — came a trajectory toward a more made good canvases for all the pure Berardi va-va-voom. and elegant collection inspired in loose T-shirt and roomy youthful look and away from ornamentation. by the play of light on water. sleeveless smock shapes, as in the ultra-elegant after-dark Roksanda: There was a hard, There were fine-gauge knit one silver number with a navy dresses that he’s known for. Antonio Berardi: Antonio Berardi sculptural edge to much of tops and dresses with small, galloping horse print and chiffon The kitschy calligraphic relaxed the vicelike grip he has Roksanda Ilincic’s spring shiny mosaiclike squares sewn panels at the skirts. The unfussy letters churned out by Chinese traditionally held on a woman’s lineup. A calf-length dress with into them to mimic swimming- feel was also evident in a series street artists, which were re- waist and curves, and instead a plunging neckline came in pool tiles, while a blue shift of jumpsuits, such as one hot- created in brightly colored showed a collection full of synthetically bright orange, with dress was dotted with big, pink, draped design with a deep crystals, made for tongue-in- lightness and romance. extravagant folds of material at iridescent sequins that had V-neck and carrot-shaped pants. cheek embellishments, like on The designer said this new the bodice revealing a sky-blue been folded to form a 3-D Even the more glamorous a yellow shift dress that sported direction was a reaction to color underneath. A black top pattern, approximating sun looks had an insouciant air — the letters of the designer’s the worrying events he sees was crafted with a rigid pink glinting off the sea. Sky-blue a white chiffon tank stitched name. A white cotton shirt unfolding on the global stage. ruffle that wound from the neck miniskirts had textured, shiny with black organza flowers was had a crystal monogram H “We live in a time when to the bodice. surfaces made from woven paired with black knee-length (for Huishan) and was worn there’s a lot of heavy things Looking to the American patent-leather strips, while shorts, and a floor-sweeping, with a vine-embroidered blush going on and I think we need artist Julia Dault’s work, the a transparent white organdy pleated peach strapless gown organza skirt, puffed out by to calm down and breathe. I designer also took dresses done raincoat had aqua panels sewn got a graphic jolt from a tulle underlayers. wanted those clothes to breathe in a print that resembled shards into parts of the lining. cartoonish black pattern that The calligraphed letters also as well,” he explained. of crystals and embellished Nicosia continues to work resembled paint drips. The appeared on pale-gray cotton A devoré full skirt and them with Perspex discs. with 3-D printed knits, which aesthetic was reminiscent of jacquard high-waisted trousers mohair sweater in vanilla tones As a foil to this directional are made from nylon powder, the sporty, wearable designs and a matching cropped may not have been the most fare, Ilincic offered a softer including a chain-mail-like that have become Stella short-sleeve jacket that had a directional of ensembles, but it take on her arty approach. A panel that he worked onto a McCartney’s calling card, but Hepburn-esque ingénue effect. WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2014 7 WWD.COM

Roksanda Pringle of Scotland Huishan Zhang FASHION SCOOPS

SEARS OBTAINS $400M LOAN Friday night, taking over FROM EDWARD LAMPERT: Sloane Square with a party Entities affiliated with Sears to celebrate its first women’s Holdings Corp. have entered flagship store. Yurts were into a short-term loan for dotted about the square, $400 million from affiliates housing a speakeasy serving of ESL Investments Inc., espresso martinis, a Taschen of which Sears’ chairman literary space and a vinyl and chief executive officer, listening station, while Edward S. Lampert, is the sole food trucks served gyoza stockholder. According to dumplings, pizzas and gelato. a regulatory filing with the Isaac Ferry and Harley Viera Securities and Exchange Newton DJ’d. Among the guests Commission, the first $200 enjoying the fortuitously warm million was funded on evening were Edie Campbell, Monday, and the second $200 Paula Goldstein, Portia Freeman, million is expected to be George Lamb, Patrick Grant, Robert funded on Sept. 30. The loan, Konjic, Kristina Blahnik, Tom which has an annual base Hollander and Tallulah Harlech. interest rate of 5 percent, is TV and radio star Lamb set to mature on Dec. 31, but said he’s setting up a new radio can be extended until Feb. 28 station. “It’s going to play the under certain conditions. best music of all genres and The company said it transcend age, race and class, plans to use the proceeds for while raising global and social general corporate purposes. awareness. It’ll be digital and The filing said the loan remember your favorite music. is guaranteed by Sears and I’ve got techie geeks on board secured by a first-priority lien to make that happen. Plus the on 25 real estate properties name is properly cool. I’m not owned by Sears. The filing telling you what it is but it is also said that in “certain very cool,” he teased. circumstances,” ESL as lender The 4,000-square-foot, may exercise its “reasonable two-floor flagship opened determination to substitute last month at 32-33 Sloane one or more of the properties Square, stocking women’s with substitute properties.” wear, vintage clothing and In addition, in the event of a accessories, as well as home default, such as a bankruptcy wares and flowers. proceeding, the lender may — JULIA NEEL declare all or any portion of the indebtedness to be LIGHTENING UP: “Game of immediately due and payable. Thrones” actress Gwendoline — VICKI M. YOUNG Christie may have demurred David Koma Issa on whether she feels any OPEN TO DISCUSSION: Through pressure to look the part of a a new partnership with Fast designer’s girlfriend, but the Company, Kering will launch most obvious perk of going its Kering Talks program Sept. steady with Giles Deacon was 23 with a chat with Sen. Kirsten sparklingly clear. “I’m wearing Gillibrand (D., N.Y.) about her new my favorite piece from the book “Off the Sidelines: Raise collection, which is definitely Your Voice, Change the World.” my favorite so far. It was made Laurent Claquin, head just for me,” she said. of Kering Americas, said Also in the front row were Monday, “Right now, we plan Jade Parfitt, Jasmine Guinness, to do these talks every two Lady Mary Charteris, Portia months or so. We wanted to Freeman and Jaime Winstone, have an opportunity to have who has just finished filming very intimate conversations a romantic comedy with Lily with thought leaders about Collins. “It’s called ‘Love, different subjects and Rosie’ and it was great to do topics. They may be from something different to the David Koma: It was good to institutions, the cinema, kind of thing I usually do, see David Koma, whose first writers or musicians. We are much lighter,” said Winstone. runway collection for Mugler most interested in digital, — STEPHANIE HIRSCHMILLER will bow in Paris, bring a few sustainability, women new ideas to his namesake line. empowerment, creativity MIA GENERATION: A cool Koma, who rarely uses color and talent.” He said, “It will delegation of London leading effusively, showed that he can almost be like a rendezvous “It” girls were seated front row pull off a palette that stretches every two months with no at Topshop Unique, including beyond black and white — specific objective except to Poppy Delevingne, Alexa Chung, although they were there, too. have a great discussion with a Pixie Geldof and Daisy Lowe. He offered a pair of neat creative leader.” America was represented by a white city shorts with a yellow Each event’s audience will rising star, Los Angeles-based panel around one leg paired be capped at about 55 people singer and songwriter Princess with a mannish white blazer, and the Kering Talks will last Pia Mia. “My first single will be and a sporty ribbed cropped an hour so that “everyone can released in about a month,” top in a look that was both [go on] to do whatever they said the newcomer to London disciplined and fresh. have to do,” Claquin said. Fashion Week. “But the title is Koma relaxed his usual — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG still a secret,” she said, when angles and narrow silhouette, asked for more details about introducing a sinuous line in SLOANE RANGERS: Club Monaco her music project. the spiral-cut skirts of dresses put its stamp on London — ALESSANDRA TURRA GIANNONI that circled the legs, increasing in length as they descended, occasionally dipping to new sub- GIOVANNI knee lengths. Transparent mesh BY inserts gave the impression of floating panels of fabric in white- ZHANG and-blue body-con dresses. The final group of high- EXCEPT octane black cocktail dresses that had dense rows of colored PHOTOS Pixie Geldof, Alexa Chung, crystals applied in geometric Jessie Ware, Harley Viera Newton sections will be a hit with his RUNWAY and Daisy Lowe at Topshop Unique. red-carpet following. ALL 8 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2014 Ann Inc. Rebuffs Brands Refute Animal Abuse Claims Hedge Fund Push and Lidia Nogue, an affiliate of the fur distributor Galaico By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Catalana, stated that the aforementioned designers have al- legedly bought fur from the farms that were investigated. By ARNOLD J. KARR A COUPLE OF fashion brands are striking back at an ani- A Burberry spokesman also debunked the allegations. mal-rights group that claimed the firms used rabbit fur farms “Burberry has no relationship with the farms featured and we NEITHER the investment community nor where widespread abuse allegedly took place. are sure that Curticub is not part of our supply chain,” he said. the management of Ann Inc. was moved Last week, Last Chance for Animals claimed that a two-year “Burberry strongly condemns the practices shown in the footage by the second push by activist investors investigation of 70 rabbit farms in Spain resulted in reports of which demonstrates cruel and illegal behavior. Burberry sources Engine Capital LP and Red Alder to effect farm workers “callously bashing sick rabbits to death” and “crip- all natural raw materials very carefully in our efforts to safeguard a sale of the retail chain. pled, diseased and severely wounded rabbits left to suffer with the correct ethical standards in line with our Ethical Trading pol- In a presentation to other Ann share- no medical treatment,” among other things. The group claimed icy. Burberry will not use fur if there is concern that its produc- holders, the hedge funds asserted that there is evidence linking Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg, tion has involved the unacceptable treatment of animals.” a sale to a retailer such as Chico’s FAS Burberry, Dior, Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent and Louis Representatives for Jacobs, von Furstenberg and Louis Inc., Ascena Retail Group Inc., J. Crew Vuitton with animal cruelty at some of those locations. Vuitton declined comment. Group Inc. or Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. A Dior spokeswoman said, “The House of Dior has never LCA and Animal Equality have created a Web site to try to could generate $60 to $65 a share in pro- had any dealings with the company involved in these facts. substantiate their claims, and have posted an online petition ceeds, while a sale to a private equity firm The House of Dior is deeply shocked by the documented im- to send to the respective fashion companies asking them to such as Golden Gate Partners, Sycamore ages, which are against our values and practices. The House stop selling fur. Now that their efforts have been made public, Partners or Apax Partners could bring in of Dior emphasizes that all of its products made of fur fully the animal activist groups are asking the named fashion com- between $50 and $55 a share. respect the EU guidelines.” panies “to maintain their integrity and not have any dealings But unlike developments last month The investigation into the fur farms was a joint effort by with these fur farms. Ultimately we would like to see them when the firms revealed their ideas about LCA and the animal rights organization Animal Equality. The phase out fur as a garment,” an LCA spokesman said Monday. ways of unlocking shareholder value and two groups said that with the use of hidden cameras Francisco — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM MILES SOCHA AND the stock shot up 6.5 percent to $39.94, Cuberes Escola, owner of the fur distributor Curticub, SAMANTHA CONTI Ann Inc.’s shares Monday slipped 31 cents, or 0.8 percent, to $40.51 following disclosure of elements of a presentation sent to other shareholders. Ann reacted to the analysis with ques- Brooks Bros. Goes Tropical for Spring tions of its own and noted that its “full board has had the opportunity to review new navy blazer.” the presentation” from the two investors, By JEAN E. PALMIERI In the younger Red Fleece who together own about 1 percent of the label, tailored clothing was retailer’s shares. NEW YORK — Brooks Brothers slimmed up even more and the “While the board appreciates the input took to the beach for its spring preppy-inspired aesthetic trans- of Engine Capital and Red Alder, none of collection. lated into hibiscus-print chinos the analyses contained in their presenta- The retailer was inspired by and nautical sweaters for men tion is new to the board,” the company the colors of the seashore, of- and a sea horse-print dress for fering pinks, corals and vary- women. Amendola also revealed ing shades of blue in its men’s, that Brooks Bros. will introduce women’s and children’s offer- a Red Fleece fragrance for men ings. And in keeping with the and women for holiday. A gros- $40.51 theme, Brooks Brothers has grain ribbon will wrap the caps of formed a collaboration with the bottles in either a burgundy Reyn Spooner, the Hawaiian- repp stripe for men or a navy and CLOSING PRICE OF ANN INC. based company that is credited white polka dot for women. The SHARES MONDAY. with being among the first to de- men’s eau de toilette will retail for velop the prints now commonly $60 while the eau de parfum for referred to as Hawaiian. women will sell for $70; both will said. “The conclusions that one draws Lou Amendola, chief merchan- be carried at the company’s retail from these analyses depend heavily on dising officer, said Brooks Bros. stores and online. various assumptions made. The board turned to Reyn Spooner for its In the Thom Browne-designed continues in a deliberate manner and on reverse-printed designs on cot- Black Fleece brand, the design- an informed basis to consider and deter- ton and is offering men’s uncon- er paired opaque cottons, ging- mine the courses of action that are in the structed sport coats, shirts, hats ham, linen, seersucker, organza best interests of all of its shareholders.” and accessories as well as wom- and voile in the collection’s sig- Further, Ann noted that it “regularly en’s dresses and skirts with the nature navy and gray as well as reviews all options reasonably available washed and faded finish. “It’s the Brooks Brothers was inspired THOMAS IANNACCONE bright blue, red, orange and yel- to the company and, as is typical, utilizes icing on the cake for our overall by the colors of the seashore. low. He also used the tones of old the services of a financial adviser in con- theme,” Amendola said. Kodachrome photographs for a PHOTO BY nection with those reviews.” Reuters ear- The women’s collection is brown-and-white color offering. lier reported that Ann had retained J.P. big on dresses for spring, many with plain-front pants for men. And “We’re coming off the second Morgan as its financial adviser. in tropical or poppy prints and men’s suits were offered in lighter shades of year where women’s has had the great- Engine and Red Alder pressured Ann wear-inspired fabrics such as broken gray and blue this season. “The tailored est percentage growth,” Amendola said, to explore strategic alternatives in late windowpanes. In men’s, there was more clothing business is performing quite noting that the dresses and skirts have August, when it expressed disappoint- colorful sportswear than in the past, strongly at the moment,” Amendola been especially popular. ment at the lack of progress made in pur- with linen shirts and chinos in eques- said, noting that young men were em- In women’s, Browne introduced suing such a course of action following trian and nautical prints. bracing the slimmer, more fitted silhou- shorter lengths and more detailed private talks with company officials. Seersucker, a signature of the com- ette. There was also an unconstructed pleats and hems, as well as a draped- Golden Gate Capital in March paid pany, showed up in different colors and double-breasted knit sport coat with drop shoulder coat for women and a $156.2 million for a 9.5 percent stake in items, including a slim, black tuxedo gold buttons that Amendola called “the bomber for both genders. the women’s wear retailer, but has not publicly pressed for changes in ownership or capitalization. In their previous push for action at Meister Label to Get Breath of Life With Licenses Ann, the two investors suggested, as an alternative to a sale, that the retailer bor- Licensing “is the model that looks to sector, advised Meister in the transac- row money and repurchase a third of its By DAVID MOIN be most successful in the retail world. tion. “This is the next chapter in his shares outstanding through a tender offer I have not really done licensing in the brand evolution,” said William Susman, to existing shareholders. DAVID MEISTER is expected to re- past. This is my first venture, as far as Threadstone’s founder. “His niche is When the firms took their qualms with sume shipping his collection and broad- building a multiple licensing lifestyle glamorous evening and red-carpet Ann’s management public last month, en the offerings next year through a program. The customer has been re- dresses and gowns.” Stifel Nicolaus analyst Richard Jaffe told new licensing program. questing brand extensions, different ACI will receive a royalty stream. clients he considered a sale of the compa- Meister has partnered with Los price points and categories.” ACI manages and administers all as- ny “unlikely,” since it is viewed as “a near- Angeles-based ACI Licensing Inc., an Andy Cohan, co-chief executive of- pects of the licensing process, includ- ly mature business with limited square agent that intends to develop the David ficer of ACI, said, “We are close to put- ing marketing, research, financials, footage growth remaining in the com- Meister brand, in the aftermath of the ting together a great program for David contract administration and royalty pany’s existing concepts.” Additionally, designer’s arrangement with Kellwood that will allow him to express himself reporting. Meister, who is also based in he said that Stifel wasn’t aware of a new Co., which ended earlier this year. creatively and business-wise. I think we Los Angeles, owns his brand. concept or a push for international expan- ACI officials told WWD they expect are looking at end of second quarter or Through Kellwood, Meister’s collec- sion and that recent cost-cutting moves by to soon reveal licenses for Meister so his third quarter of 2015 to be in the stores tion continued to be shipped through management would impair a private eq- label can be in stores next year. Aside and shipping. Initially, the focus will be June and July. “We had been together for uity company’s ability to cut costs. from red-carpet gowns, Meister’s col- on the core customers.” He said he sees 15 years,” Meister said. “They were the Ann last month reported an 8.1 per- lection was being carried by Saks Fifth exploring multiple licensing oppor- ones that allowed me to start the busi- cent decline in second-quarter net in- Avenue and Neiman Marcus, which have tunities in categories other than ones ness, but they were kind of going in a come, to $32.7 million, or 70 cents a di- some items still available, and other spe- Meister has tackled in the past. different direction. A lot of their brands luted share, on a 1.6 percent increase in cialty retailers. Threadstone, an investment bank are more moderate. We both knew it was sales to $648.7 million. “ACI is very strategic,” Meister said. focused on the retail and consumer time to go in different directions.” WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2014 9 WWD.COM Macy’s Unveils Omnichannel Initiatives The Ideas and Innovation area at SpinExpo. {Continued from page one} RFID’s ability to significantly Lundgren said the conve- improve sales, gross margins nience of mobile payment at and markdowns. Additional roll- the point-of-sale is becoming out of RFID tagging in fashion increasingly interesting to cus- categories is planned for 2015. tomers, and Apple Pay provides Macys.com will take the an opportunity to further sim- pages of its fall fashion direct- plify the POS process. In addi- mail catalogue and transform tion, Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s them into a virtual publication. new mobile wallet allows shop- Macy’s Digital Edition will le-

pers to easily store and virtu- verage the functionality of the ally access offers and coupons. tablet experience to introduce The wallets are now available customers to an enhanced cata- to customers with profiles on logue featuring exclusive edito- JACKSON LOWEN macys.com and/or bloomingda- rial content, fashion advice, clos- les.com. In November, the com- er looks at products and selected STEVE EICHNER

pany’s mobile apps will add the product suggestions. Available PHOTO BY wallet function to complete the Terry J. Lundgren at macys.com/digitaledition, the TEXTILES

omnichannel experience. PHOTO BY virtual guides will allow shop- Same-day delivery will be down to a level of individual pers to create new outfits using piloted this fall at Macy’s and preference not just market pref- the Style Mixer feature. Bloomingdale’s starting with erence. By capturing the infor- Macy’s is piloting a new gen- Sourcing Shift Seen at SpinExpo products purchased at macys. mation that you want’’ us to know eration of enhanced handheld Maoyi Fuzhuang Clothing Co. “At com, bloomingdales.com and about you, we can better serve point-of-sale devices and tablets By CASEY HALL the moment, we are looking for on both brands’ mobile-en- you by not sending you junk e- in select locations that will allow the most suitable materials, but abled Web sites. Macy’s will mail and sending you things sales associates to more effec- SHANGHAI — The demand haven’t made any decisions about offer same-day delivery to con- you’re most interested in.” tively engage with customers. from buyers at SpinExpo was buying or not. We want to find the sumers in Chicago, Houston, Tested last year at Macy’s Connect@Macy’s Centers have in- increasingly moving beyond big most suitable materials for our Los Angeles, New Jersey, San flagships in New York and San creased staffing to help consum- quantities and basics. company’s style. Price is impor- Francisco, San Jose, Seattle and Francisco, Macy’s and Shopkick ers with everything from picking Fair organizer Karine Von tant, but the most important thing Washington. Bloomingdale’s will expand the use of Shopkick’s up online orders to styling advice. Tassel said a desire for more niche is to find the most suitable thing.” will make same-day deliveries ShopBeacon technology to all In pilot stores, customers can use and creative materials was driving As for key trends, the influ- in Chicago, Los Angeles, San Macy’s stores. ShopBeacon, an electronic kiosks and large inter- interest beyond China’s most es- ence of activewear was perva- Francisco and San Jose, Calif. enhanced mobile location tech- active “look book” displays, and tablished industry players, to the sive, with cut-and-sew jersey The deliveries will all be pow- nology, will be placed in various purchase on mobile devices. In benefit of smaller exhibitors, par- making a big impression. ered by Deliv, a national crowd- departments at Macy’s, allowing addition, Bloomingdale’s smart ticularly those from Europe. According to SpinExpo’s cre- sourced delivery network. Shopkick app users to get more fitting rooms in Century City, San “In general, if you are look- ative director, Sophie Steller, a Buy online, pick up in store, ing for quantity, you go to the sporty, technical trend is meet- originally piloted in fall 2013, Chinese,” Von Tassel said. ing a call for tactility and inter- was recently rolled out to all We recognize the consumer is “Buyers tend to first go and see esting textures. Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s their big suppliers. Then when “Novelty yarns are really stores nationwide. they have what they want from having a moment,” Steller said. As for Macy’s Image Search starting the shopping experience on them, they head to the interna- “There’s the technical elements and the Idea Lab, Lundgren tional buyers to see what they coming through on the sports said, “macys.com and all of our her phone more and more and doing can find there, something more side. Mohair is also having a technology experts and develop- special, niche.” real moment — the yarns are re- ers are based in San Francisco. research of where she wants to shop. Bruce Cameron, sales direc- ally the heroes. Everything has We prefer that, because we’re tor for exhibitor Todd & Duncan, a more artisan approach to it. competing with Silicon Valley — TERRY J. LUNDGREN, MACY’S INC. a 140-year-old, U.K.-based fine It’s technical crafting in a way, for talent. We look for the or- cashmere yarn producer, said crafty with innovation behind it; ganization to submit ideas for personalized deals, discounts, Francisco and Palo Alto, Calif.; while European spinners still that’s the underlying message to problems that need solving and recommendations and rewards. Short Hills, N.J., and Garden City, faced obstacles coming into the all of the trends.” give them to the Idea Lab. We ShopBeacon’s installation should N.Y., feature wall-mounted tab- China market, including prohibi- This fall edition of SpinExpo regularly identify challenges we be finished this fall, with activa- lets where sales associates and tive import duties, there has been Shanghai, the 24th session, saw would like to overcome. One of tion beginning soon after. customers can scan items to get an increase in interest in high- 225 exhibitors from 15 countries them was this fantastic Macy’s Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s more information. Shoppers can end products in recent years. showing their wares. Attendance Image Search. It solves the chal- have both launched new mo- tap a button to call for assistance. “Obviously, this is a big man- was down from previous fairs, to lenge of somebody who sees a bile shopping apps for iOS and “We believe that the stores are ufacturing market and there is around 11,000 people from 18,000 product they like on a person or Android. Enhanced navigation an advantage versus an online- a place here for high, high-end a year ago, in large part because in a magazine, but it’s not iden- allows customers to easily and only company,” Lundgren said. cashmere, but the import du- of stricter visitor registration tified and they don’t know how quickly move between features, “That personal touch of a profes- ties create an obstacle to get rules aimed at weeding out in- to go about finding it. We have a reach desired products with fewer sional associate who is there to our products into this market,” terested onlookers from genuine number of these projects going clicks and check-out more quickly. help you or to offer advice is a re- he said. “We have knitters here industry players. on inside our Idea Lab, but “We are a multifaceted re- ally an important differentiator who do huge volumes in the do- Despite the decrease in over- to the technology’’ we’re now pro- they’re not quite ready for prime tailer with stores, technology, mestic market and they are now all numbers, exhibitors did not time. It’s a fantastic process of Internet capability and mobile viding in fitting rooms. The tech- looking to maybe notch that up report a drop in serious visitors. great brains working together.” access that come together for nology is very helpful in terms a bit. What may be a small per- “We have seen more custom- Macy’s has been trying to our customers,” Lundgren said. of inventory and how to pull a centage for them is a very nice ers than last year,” said Sammi drill down to get more specific “They are at the center of all our whole look together and to find- volume for a European spinner.” Zhou, a second-time exhibi- and detailed information about decisions, and our ongoing re- ing inventories, but the personal Price sensitivity did not tor with Wuxi Taianjines Wool what customers want. “We start- search and development will con- touch is always welcome.” seem front of mind for visitors Textiles. “We haven’t filled any ed this trend several years ago tinue to help us understand how “The next step,” said at SpinExpo, who were more fo- orders, but we have made some when we created the My Macy’s to personally engage with them.” Lundgren, “is already what we’ve cused on finding the right mate- interesting connections with organization,” the ceo said. “In RFID technology began roll- been touching on. Customers rials, rather than the cheapest. mainly domestic customers, but 60 cities all over the country we ing out in 2011. In recent om- want a sophisticated company to “Last year, we also partici- also some international custom- have people guiding our pur- nichannel pilots in fashion cat- service them by knowing what pated in the fair and found lots ers. We will definitely come back. chase behavior in local markets egories such as social dresses, they’re looking for. And that’s a of new things and new ideas,” It’s the best way to meet the in terms of weight of fabric, col- men’s sport coats and men’s great deal of the work we’re doing said Zhang Feng Li, a repre- needs of the market and meet ors and styles. We’re taking that slacks, Macy’s documented with the technology companies.” sentative of the Beijing Jingcai with new potential customers.”

written by Park — best known to explore themes critical to MEMO PAD for his films “Oldboy” and the formation of their identity. “Stoker” — Chung-hoon Chung of The film hopes to explore the FASHION FILM: Ermenegildo “Slow Slow Quick Quick” and intersection of both Eastern and Zegna is venturing into film, Japanese screenwriter, Ayako Western cultures. collaborating with South Korean Fujitani of “The Doors.” The first episode made its director Chan-wook Park on three The project marks a creative debut Monday on the Zegna short movies that will tie together partnership between Park and Web site, and centers around with a finale that will premiere Zegna’s creative director, Stefano Stephen, a young engineer at the closing event of Shanghai Pilati, who came together through and chief executive officer Fashion Week next month. producer Luca Guadagnino, the who meets with the mysterious Titled “A Rose Reborn,” head of Frenesy Film. Mr. Lu, who wants to buy his Jack Huston, the film stars British actor Jack The series follows two men, company. The second episode Daniel Wu and Huston of “Boardwalk Empire” played by Huston and Wu, on a will air on Sept. 24, the third, Chan-wook Park. fame, and Daniel Wu from “Blood journey of self-discovery that Oct. 13, and the finale on Oct. 23 Brothers.” The script was takes them around the world in Shanghai. — DAVID YI 10 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2014

WWD talked to five of this year’s breakout stars at the Toronto Film Festival, which closed Toasting Toronto Sunday. — Jenny Sundel

actor, I walked Vanessa Sam Redgrave into a room GENESIS RODRIGUEZ sweetest, nicest guy possible,” Will Reid and did a scene with Genesis Rodriguez has the perfect tag Ferrell. “I mean, could it have gotten her,” he said. Last year, line to sum up her latest career turn: any better for me?” she said. “I just he was at Toronto to “From telenovelas gave them super promote “Belle” and “The to Toronto,” cracked telenovela and I got Railway Man,” in which the Givenchy-clad the job within the he caught the attention actress during a week.” of critics playing the chat at the Trump Father’s Daughter: younger version of Stellan International Hotel “I never saw my Skarsgård’s character. and Tower Toronto. dad say, ‘No,’ to an “By the time I got to The daughter of autograph or picture Jennifer Lawrence and Venezuelan singer in my 27 years,” Bradley Cooper [his and actor José said Rodríguez, costars in the soon-to- Luis Rodríguez who split her time be-released “Serena”], (affectionately between Miami and I just tried not to pinch called “El Puma”) Venezuela growing myself and to learn from and Cuban model up. “It’s the greatest these people as much as Carolina Pérez, the inspiration. He’s 71 possible,” he said. former soap actress and still working.” When he won his part is starring in “Tusk,” Up Next: Smith in “The Riot Club,” he the first film of Kevin expanded her role had a hard time relating Smith’s upcoming in “Tusk” during to Hugo Fraser-Tyrwhitt, “True North trilogy.” shooting with an a character who, as his additional 14 pages name suggests, comes Age: 27 of dialogue. He from a much more posh Provenance: Miami then cast her in the Mad for Sam background than the Big Break: She auditioned for a role Canadian-themed “Yoga Hosers” young actor. in “Casa de mi Padre,” a spoof of alongside Johnny Depp, and in “When I first read telenovelas starring “the coolest, “Moose Jaws.” OF ALL THE FILMS making their debut the script, it made me so physically in Toronto, generally considered the ill,” he continued. “These boys are beginning of the months-long awards just completely opposite from where season, three of the most high-profile I grew up and the world that I know. feature Sam Reid, a little-known 27-year- But I thought I could try to bring some ALBA ROHRWACHER Big Break: In 2007 and 2008, she won old from the hinterlands of Australia. humanity to the role.” Alba Rohrwacher arrived at the back-to-back David di Donatello There is “The Riot Club,” a thriller about One night, he and his costars — festival with a serious case of jet awards (the Italian Oscars) for “Days a secret society at Oxford that stars a Booth, Irons and Sam Claflin, his old lag. But it was all for and Clouds” and who’s who of former breakout actors, such classmate in London — tried to match good reason: She had “Giovanna’s Father.” as Douglas Booth and Max Irons. There’s the amount of alcohol their characters traveled here from the She then gained also “Tigers,” the most recent film by the drink in the film. Venice International traction Stateside Academy Award-winning Bosnian “We thought we should know Film Festival, where with her role in “I Am filmmaker Danis Tanovic; and what that’s like,” he said. But they she picked up the Best Love.” the buzzy “71,” a taut political couldn’t get the job done. “We care Actress Volpi Cup for All About Adam: “For me, drama set during The Troubles in eye about our livers too much.” her work on “Hungry he was like the most Northern Ireland. The film drew raves after its Hearts,” a dark drama incredible partner I’ve Reid has climbed the ranks premiere but Reid was not sorry shot in New York ever had. We met just quickly. He was raised on a cattle to have missed it. alongside Adam Driver, one month before the farm in southern Wales with his older “I don’t have to do the media circus,” who was also awarded shooting started, and brother, Rupert Reid (also an actor). A he said from London. He went through the festival’s then we had only one student of acting since the age of 6, he the festival wringer last year. “We did top acting prize. “The reading of the script, spent time in London, where he attended the whole merry-go-round trip, and I movie’s all about two but everything is easy the London Academy of Music and was there for almost two weeks. It was actors so, of course, we with him,” she said of Dramatic Arts, and New York and now a bit arduous, so I was happy this year were so happy,” said the working with Driver. commutes back and forth between the that I wasn’t required.” Plus, like any German-Italian actress. Up Next: She will former and Los Angeles. “For a kid who young actor on the cusp, he’s got other appear alongside grew up in rural Australia, I think I have a projects to be worried about. “I’m kind Age: 35 Salma Hayek in “A Tale of Tales,” a real strong sense of adventure,” he said. of busy,” he said. Provenance: Florence film about a circus family. After his first professional audition, The fast pace of a career on the rise he won a role in the 2011 film suits him just fine, he said, adding, “Anonymous.” “Everything fits into a suitcase because “My first day ever as a professional I’m never in one place for too long.” JAKE ABEL “When we were on the press tour Jake Abel booked a last-minute ticket for ‘The Host,’ we did a signing at to Toronto and ended up crashing on The Grove [a shopping center in Los GOLSHIFTEH FARAHANI Age: 31 a friend’s couch to promote two films Angeles] and there’s security guys in Golshifteh Farahani didn’t make it Provenance: Tehran, Iran at the festival: Andrew Niccol’s “Good suits and it’s mayhem. And then two to Toronto due to her busy filming Big Break: In Iran, her role in “M Kill,” in which he plays a drone pilot months later, I’m back there walking schedule, but she called from Café Is for Mother” was her breakout. alongside Ethan around with de Flore in Paris But with “Body of Hawke and Zoë my wife and it to discuss her roles Lies,” she gained a Kravitz, and “Love occurred to me: in two films that worldwide audience. & Mercy,” a Beach Nobody cares,” premiered at the “Because of that Boys biopic in he said. festival: Jon Stewart’s movie, I’m living which he plays Off the Mark: LOCKE JACKLYN directorial debut, my life in exile, but Mike Love. It’s all During a fight “Rosewater,” and I’m also gaining the part of the ride for scene in “The Mia Hansen-Løve’s world.” the former model, Lovely Bones,” “Eden.” Stewart’s Role Reversal: Her who drove out Abel missed his film, based on the role in “Rosewater” West in pursuit mark — by a lot. true story of journalist was intended for a of the Hollywood “By mistake, I Maziar Bahari’s five- 50-year-old, but she dream while still punched Mark month imprisonment convinced Stewart in his teens. Wahlberg,” he

in Iran after his she was the right said. “It probably STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE; ALL OTHERS BY appearance on “The woman for the job. Age: 26 felt like a tickle Daily Show,” struck a “I know Maziar, and Provenance: to him.” chord with the actress, I know his story,” Canton, Ohio Up Next: “Ghosts who lives in exile from she said. Big Break: After of the Pacific,” her native Iran in Up Next: Farahani roles in young a World War II Paris. “I thought it was plays Nefertari, a adult fare like drama based on important to be in it,” Queen of Egypt, in “Supernatural” and “Percy Jackson a true story about three men trying to she said of landing the part of Bahari’s Scott’s “Exodus: Gods and Kings.” and the Olympians: The Lightning survive on a lifeboat with no food or BY SEBASTIAN SMITH; FARAHANI older sister. “I can’t go back. But Iran is “Ridley Scott is like my godfather Thief,” he landed a high-profile part water: “I lost 17 pounds in two-and-a- part of me.” in cinema.” in Stephenie Meyer’s “The Host.” half weeks.” REID PHOTO BY WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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{Continued from page one} that Puig was backing away from the house generates consolidated revenues for the one-off line he designed for “It comes to a point where you don’t fashion business, Toledano replied: of about 30 million euros, or $38.9 million Scandinavian fashion chain Lindex, arriv- even have time to think,” he said. “There is clearly a strong correlation at current exchange rates, with royalties ing in 323 of its 480 stores next month. The Gaultier stressed that he is energized between success in fashion and a great from licensed products — fragrances, spectacle featured two Eiffel Towers on at the prospect of devoting more time fragrance business. However, our plan is watches, eyewear and beachwear among the runway, performances and top models and research to couture, hinting that he essentially guided by our wish to concen- them — generating about half that sum. including Karen Elson, who strutted in would enlarge his collections, and ramp trate in areas where Mr. Gaultier enjoys Besides couture, leather goods and ac- front of a crowd of 1,600. up costuming duties for performances. working and excels particularly.” cessories were also produced in-house. Gaultier also continues to design for

He also plans to take on an array of He added that Puig has “very ambi- The fashion house has weathered pe- musicians including the likes of Kylie projects, including hotels and interior dec- tious plans” to develop Gaultier’s beauty riods of struggle over the past decade. Minogue, soon embarking on a new tour, oration, plus collaborations with specialty as well as Mylène Farmer and Conchita manufacturers — or even other fashion Wurst, an Austrian drag performer who groups — on rtw or accessories projects. Jean Paul Gaultier won the last Eurovision Song Contest,

His final women’s rtw collection is to be will shift his focus to and who wore the bride’s outfit at shown at the Grand Rex on Sept. 27 during couture and beauty. Gaultier’s most recent couture show. Paris Fashion Week for the spring season. Like his fashions, Gaultier’s business Gaultier said his swan song would be model went against popular convention, mounted with the same joie de vivre and based heavily on licensing, even for core rambunctious spirit he’s come to repre- products like rtw and jeans. sent. “It certainly won’t be a funeral,” he Before Puig, Hermès International said with a yelp of laughter, also teasing ’’ controlled a 45 percent stake in Gaultier. that his final rtw collection might have a The maker of Birkin bags and silk collectible appeal. scarves was seen as an unusual partner News of the downsizing comes three for the designer, long described as an years after Puig, the Spanish fragrance “enfant terrible,” or wild child, because and fashion group, acquired a majority of his irreverent approach to fashion and stake in the Gaultier house, and points such outré inventions as skirts for men to challenging times for midsize play- and Madonna’s now-iconic cone bustiers ers in an era of megabrands with global for her “Blond Ambition” tour. store networks. Hermès bought an initial 35 percent It also suggests that despite the French of Gaultier in 1999 by investing $23.4 mil- designer’s enduring popularity and cult lion in the business, upping its stake to following — underscored by attendance 45 percent in 2008. records for his roving retrospective exhi- Prior to Puig’s acquisition, the bition — the fashion house has struggled to Gaultier business saw a succession of translate his madcap creativity into profits. managers, with the designer himself tak- Gaultier noted his decision to stop ing on the title of president in 2010 until rtw and accessories was made in concert Puig arrived. The Spanish group brought with Puig executives, with whom he es- Commercial constraints, as well as the frenetic in Toledano, an industry veteran, in 2012, tablished “a relationship of trust” and and he appointed a new manager, leaving was following an “in-depth assessment” pace of collections, don’t leave any freedom, Gaultier free to focus on design. of the future of the house. Longtime Gaultier president Donald “We looked at various possibilities Potard, a childhood friend of the design- considering the present state of the com- nor the necessary time to…innovate. er, resigned in 2004 as Hermès ratcheted pany and we have reached the same con- up the pressure to get the house out of clusion,” he wrote. — JEAN PAUL GAULTIER the red. Potard was as unconventional a It is understood the rtw and acces- ceo as Gaultier was a designer. He once sories shutdown is to affect a few dozen remarked that he broke almost every rule employees, following the required con- In 2004, Gaultier let go 31 workers in the business: “We did couture after sultations with work councils. A look from in a bid to save its money-losing cou- ready-to-wear, perfume before the cou- The development means the loss of a spring 2007. ture business and lift the house out of ture and we opened boutiques almost as license for Italian manufacturer Gibò Co. the red following heavy investments in the last step,” Potard said. SpA, which had taken over the license a new 50,000-square-foot building on Still, Hermès tightened its ties with for Gaultier’s women’s and men’s collec- the Rue Saint Martin with a swanky the maverick designer by tapping him tions in 2013, after having been the de- Philippe Starck decor. to succeed Martin Margiela as wom- signer’s original partner in the Eighties. As a new owner, Puig arrived with en’s rtw designer in 2003. Gaultier “He no longer felt at ease in today’s expansion ambitions. gave up the role in 2010. ultracompetitive fashion scene. I think When Gaultier moved its rtw li- One of France’s most iconic fash- that he might feel like a bit of a fish out cense after 17 years with Aeffe to Gibò ion figures, Gaultier started his com- in 2013, Puig had set a goal’’ of dou- pany in 1976, and catapulted the of water, with all the current emphasis on competition between one fashion colossus bling the designer’s sales in the French capital’s reputation and another — which doesn’t have any- next five years, and revamp- for fashion in the Eighties thing to do with what a designer expresses ing its accessories offer. At alongside fellow fashion in terms of creativity,” said Gibò’s owner the time, the company said mavericks Claude Montana and chief executive officer Franco Penè, more than 200 doors carried and Thierry Mugler. noting the loss of the license would not the top women’s rtw collec- After sketching designs for affect employment at his facilities. “Jean tion worldwide. his mother and grandmother Paul has already contributed so much, he Also last year, the com- as a teenager, including doesn’t have to prove anything to anyone.” pany was on the cusp of in- one of a coat he invented Ralph Toledano, president of troducing a new contempo- with rucksack closures, he the fashion division at Puig, said FOR GAULTIER rary and streetwear-driven dispatched his portfolio the rationale behind stopping LOOKS THROUGH clothing line with Ittierre to Pierre Cardin, who en- rtw is to “focus on every single THE YEARS, SEE SpA when the Italian gaged him as a design assis- area where Mr. Gaultier’s talent manufacturer ran into tant for two years. Gaultier GIANNONI is used at its best. He loves haute WWD.com. financial difficulties, scut- also worked for Jacques

couture, notably because it is tling what management Esterel and Jean Patou be- GIOVANNI free of commercial constraints. It described as a promising fore launching his signature BY

gives him the time to elaborate concepts, new version of the French rtw with a subversive streak FALL research and work intensively — both designer’s once blockbuster and a streetwise edge. creatively and technically — on every business, a pioneer in offering makeup Gaultier Jeans franchise. He established his beauty single aspect of the garment.” for men and known for inventive packag- The designer had also scaled business in 1991, joined the cou- ARCHIVE;

In an interview, Toledano noted that ing such as the tin-can outer packaging back his men’s wear business A fall look. ture calendar in 1997 and launched WWD Gaultier Paris is one of the few couture for men’s scents. in recent years, scrapping run- an accessories division in 2000. houses able to operate at breakeven, and Fragrances — headlined by the wom- way shows in favor of more The exhibition “The Fashion FROM “our recent commercial results indicate that en’s Classique scent and Le Mâle for men low-key presentations, and has World of Jean Paul Gaultier: we have amazing growth opportunities.” — remain the biggest and most success- made few waves in the handbag From the Sidewalk to the SPRING Gaultier’s couture atelier counts ful part of the business, and were a key business, a crucial cash-cow for Catwalk,” which originated in

about 25 seamstresses, swelling to about attraction for Puig. many European brands. Montreal in 2011 and has wel- MAÎTRE; 40 ahead of the twice-annual shows, the Come mid-2016, the Spanish company Remaining Gaultier boutiques, comed more than a million visitors designer said. He estimated the house will get its hands on the lucrative license, concentrated in France and Asia, are in seven cities, is destined for a four-

counts about 80 regular clients — an im- held by Beauté Prestige International, a sub- expected to wind down following de- month residency at the Grand Palais DOMINIQUE pressive number, given that perhaps only sidiary of Japan’s Shiseido. Sources estimate liveries of his final collections. next year after a stop in Melbourne. BY a few hundred women in the world are that fragrances represent more than 80 per- Still, the designer remains an in- It features about 150 couture and devotees of the rare, costly and labor-in- cent of the Gaultier business, if one consid- demand personality. rtw pieces from 1970 through 2013. PHOTO tensive enterprise. ers the wholesale value of all products. Last week, he flew to Gothenburg, — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM

Asked if the rtw shutdown signaled Market sources estimate the Gaultier Sweden, to stage a fashion show CYNTHIA MARTENS, MILAN GAULTIER