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Home , Bora Bora, French Polynesia, Tapu (Bora Bora), Vaitape

www.-telegram.com M Sunday, October 31, 2010 15E

Dianna Hunt 817-390-7084 TRAVEL [email protected]

The main island of is surrounded by an 18-mile ring of islets encircling what James Michener called “the most beautiful in the world.” In the foreground, the Hilton Bora Bora Nui. Hilton Worldwide Resorts Islands of love Celebrities and honeymooners aren’t the only ones who find the beauty and romance of French to be a perfect proposal

By Debbra Dunning Brouillette cinated me; they represent that ulti- Special to the Star-Telegram mate exotic place in the , half- BORA BORA, — way around the world, almost un- High atop a Bora Bora hillside, over- reachable. looking the lagoon author James and the 118 islands that Michener called “the most beautiful make up French Polynesia have long in the world,” Roberto Martinez pro- been a favorite spot for celebrities posed to this year’s Bachelorette, Ali who have married, honeymooned or Fedotowsky. just traveled for rest and relaxation. Nearly 20 million viewers wit- Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban hon- nessed the romantic conclusion to eymooned in Bora Bora in 2006. More ABC’s sixth season of The Bachelo- recently, Carrie Underwood and rette, which was filmed on this resort Roberto proposed to Ali in The Bachelo- Mike Fisher honeymooned on the island. And now, standing on that ve- rette finale overlooking the lagoon at the nearby island of Taha’a. The Bache- ry spot, I was mesmerized by the lorette’s next-to-last episode was Hilton Bora Bora Nui resort. ABC gemstone shades of blue water below filmed there also, before making the me — aquamarine, sapphire and to- transport across the sprawling 16- short hop to Bora Bora for the season paz. acre Hilton Bora Bora Nui Resort. Ae- finale. I had just left the spa, where I had a rial photos of French Polynesia — Ta- Since its airing, the romantic ap- full body massage, and was about to , Moorea and Bora Bora — with peal of these islands has received a The Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa is TripAdvi- return to my overwater bungalow by their dramatic volcanic peaks and major boost in popularity; bookings sor.com’s 2010 Top Hotel for Romance in the World. golf cart, the preferred mode of awe-inspiring blue had fas- More on ISLANDS, 16E Special to the Star-Telegram/Debbra Dunning Brouillette

THE ITINERARY FUN FACT

Grand ole impressionists Friend in flight If you’re looking for an excuse to visit Nashville, the If booking air travel makes Loews Vanderbilt Hotel is offering a special tied to the you cranky, seek refuge in “Birth of Impressionism” exhibition at the Frist Center for CrankyConcierge.com, the the Visual Arts. The exhibition features 100 paintings from go-to source for warm and the Musee d’Orsay in , including works by Monet, fuzzy flight assistance when Renoir and Degas. The hotel package starts at $204 and you don’t want to face po- includes two tickets to the exhibition, an in-room movie tential (and urgent) hassles with popcorn and an apple tarte tatin snack. Available or trip planning on your own. through Jan. 23. www.loewshotels.com, 800-563-9792. What’s hot: Founded by airline industry veteran Brett Snyder, best known for his Deals for veterans (and civilians) Cranky Flier blog, Cranky- Red Roof Inn is saluting the military for Veterans Day Concierge.com assists trav- and throughout November with special 15 percent dis- elers before, during and after counts at all partici- The new Pompidou Center art museum in the eastern French city of Metz is designed by their flight. Starting at $25 pating hotels. Military architects Shigeru Ban, Jean de Gastines and Philip Gumuchdjian. for a prebooked domestic The Associated Press/Jacques Brinon men and women — trip, you can have a “travel past or present — can guardian” assist you by e- receive the deal by French modern art museum mail, phone or other means if calling 800-733-7663 your flight is delayed or or by visiting redroof- canceled, if you miss a con- .com and entering captures world of attention nection, or if you need your VP+ and the code whereabouts communicated 7 ers and church steeples of Metz, chosen 606310. And for It has Picassos and Warhols, but the to others. For $25 more, you for its strategic location near , nonmilitary folks, Red building steals the show. can also get help finding low Luxembourg and Belgium. Red Roof Inn Roof Inn also offers a fares and the best flight By ANGELA DOLAND The new museum is an outpost of “Sleep Cheaper” deal for those who might be visiting family before you book. Hero sce- The Associated Press Paris’ Pompidou Center for modern and members over the holidays. The deal offers a 30 percent narios reported by Cranky contemporary art, whose offbeat design discount if you book 10 days in advance and stay at Red METZ, France — It’s France’s newest ar- Concierge on its website caused a ruckus when it opened more Roof on Thanksgiving or Christmas Day. Or receive 20 chitectural wonder, and it looks some- have included finding a flight than 30 years ago. percent on the adjacent days around the holiday with an thing like an enormous white floppy sun for a traveler displaced by Even many of those who find the exte- advance purchase. hat. Or a giant swimming , or volcanic ash, and saving a maybe an alien spacecraft. rior absurd will appreciate the galleries couple of thousand on a trip The new Pompidou Center art muse- and how they interact with the art. On between Saudi Arabia and um in the eastern French city of Metz has the ground floor, a hanging mirror re- the U.S. Good deals on the beachfront generated a big buzz in the architecture flects a maze of small, roofless rooms, What’s not: Don’t wait until The beachfront Jamaica Bay Inn in Marina del Rey, Calif., world, largely for its complex free-form giving art-gazers a contorted, ever- it’s too late to buy. Urgent is offering a special introductory rate. The Friends and roof. Open just a few months, the strange shifting view of the floor plan and art in help that is required within Family deal lets you book any standard category room for and arresting building could overshadow other rooms. 24 hours can cost you up to $149 a night. It’s available for stays through Dec. 30. The the Picassos, Dalis and Warhols it is ex- The Pompidou Center is the first Paris three times what you would 111-room hotel includes a restaurant, Jacuzzi, gardens and a hibiting. museum to embark on what authorities have paid if you had planned fitness center. Go to www.jamaicabayinn.com and enter The building is all the more surreal for call “cultural decentralization” — set- ahead. FRIENDS in the promo code box, or call 888-823-5333. its setting amid the stern gray clock tow- More on MUSEUM, 18E — Los Angeles Times 16E Sunday, October 31, 2010 M www.star-telegram.com

French Polynesia Islands BORA BORA

Continued from 15E TAHITI at resorts are up and tour MOOREA companies are offering special package prices, many of which include air- UNITED fare from Los Angeles. STATES Modern Bride magazine readers voted the Hilton’s MEXICO thatched roof overwater bungalows, like the one I called my temporary home, the No. 1 Honey- Detail Pacific moon Suite in the World. Ocean Splurge if you have to, or N look for a package that in- Star-Telegram cludes at least part of your stay in one of these dreamy huts built on stilts above If you go the shallow lagoon. Glass Here are some of the basics viewing panels in the floor about French Polynesia: of the decks and sitting ar- I Tahiti enjoys a fairly even eas, and running the length year-round climate with of the large bathtubs, make daytime temperatures around it possible to keep an eye on 82-91 degrees. Located below the fish below without the equator, the seasons are touching a toe into the wa- the reverse of ours in the A sunset sail in Bora Bora’s lagoon ends a perfect day. Special to the Star-Telegram/Debbra Dunning Brouillette ter. When the water be- . From comes too tempting, just November to March it is take a few steps down a sions offered by the Hilton. house where Captain Cook warmer, with higher humidity ladder on the deck to com- Other Bora Bora resorts of- first made landfall in 1769, and more rain; from April to mune with the blue lagoon fer similar excursions to and Matawaii Bay, where October, it’s cooler and drier. and its inhabitants. their own private motus. scenes from Mutiny on the I Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Steps away from my Bounty were filmed. Bora are islands in the Lee- 950-square-foot bunga- It all begins in Tahiti We ended our day at ward group of the Society low were a pair of two-sto- Most travelers to French The Municipal Islands of French Polynesia, ry Overwater Presidential Polynesia spend time on Market, Le Marché, where an overseas territory of Villas, added in late 2009. more than one island. All we shopped for local hand- France in the . They’re the only ones in journeys to the rest of crafted items, oils, pareos Nearly 70 percent of the French Polynesia and the French Polynesia begin in and inexpensive black estimated population of closest thing to a “high- Tahiti — and all journeys to pearl jewelry, before 287,000 lives on the island of rise” you will find. Bache- Tahiti from the U.S. begin boarding the last ferry of Tahiti. lorette fans will recall Ali in Los Angeles, leaving the day to Moorea. The I It’s common to put a tiare introduced her parents to from LAX airport on Air market is open every day, blossom (Tahiti’s national Chris and Roberto, the fi- Tahiti Nui or Air France. 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., just flower) behind one’s ear — nal two bachelors vying for (There is also a weekly one block inland from the left side if you’re taken, right her heart, in one of the vil- flight on Air from waterfront. if you’re looking. las. Each is a spacious our 50th state.) I Voltage: Hotels use either 3,400-square-foot, two- Within the span of a Moorea, heart-shaped 110 or 220 volts, depending bedroom villa, ideal for normal eight-hour work- island of love Snorkel the shallow reefs within the lagoon, which are teeming on the location. A converter/ adapter is often required for families, including its own day, travelers are trans- Moua Roa, the most dis- with colorful fish. Special to the Star-Telegram/Debbra Dunning Brouillette private whirlpool spa on ported below the equator, tinctive of Moorea’s jagged appliances you bring, in- the second-story deck, a 4,100 miles away from peaks, is thought to be (the main agricultural water beyond the lagoon. cluding computers. plunge pool and bathtub L.A., halfway between James Michener’s inspira- product of Moorea) and As we approached the dive I In-room wireless Internet with a not-to-be-believed California and , to tion for the mythical Bali tastings of jams and li- site, our guide told us that access is available at most view of the lagoon. Papeete, Tahiti. The time Hai in Tales of the South queurs made from island- we would likely be seeing resorts, usually for an addi- difference is four hours Pacific. The song from the grown fruit were highlights lots of , but none of tional fee. Free Internet ac- A day in paradise earlier than our own Cen- movie South Pacific kept of our half-day tour. the man-eating Jaws vari- cess is normally available in The site of Ali and tral Standard Time (five playing in my head as I Many of the excursions ety. Minutes before enter- the hotel’s business center. Roberto’s “last-chance hours during Daylight Sav- stood on the top deck of offered on all the islands ing the water, we were sur- Special packages date” was the Hilton’s pri- ing Time months). the high-speed catamaran, involve getting up-close- prised by the appearance of Package prices including vate islet, Motu , said An overnight stay in the which ferried us across the and-personal with crea- a humpback near airfare from Los Angeles have to be the most photo- capital city of Papeete is Sea of Moon, the 11-mile tures in the sea. On the way our boat. This was the be- helped bring these dreamy graphed islet in French required when traveling in waterway separating it to our group’s stingray- ginning of whale season islands into financial reach for Polynesia. My traveling both directions, as midday from Tahiti. feeding excursion, we were and quite a treat. We more of us than ever, with companions and I enjoyed flight times from L.A. The 30-minute crossing told small blacktip reef watched it break the sur- specials starting at about an idyllic excursion there, make it difficult to get to is one that many Mooreans sharks would most likely face several times, spray- $1,500 a person. A Bache- where we snorkeled on the other islands by ferry or air make daily to work or to at- crash our party for a few ing water through its blo- lorette Romantic Getaway nearby reef, sipped cham- the day of arrival, and tend school in Tahiti. Air leftovers. We emerged with whole before disappearing package was advertised pagne and strolled along flights leave early morning Tahiti also offers a shuttle all our fingers and toes and from sight. The adrenaline recently online at $2,799 per the white sand beach of the the day of departure. service several times each happily snapped photos of rush continued as we spot- person. Check out these motu, before being served Our first night’s lodging day between the two is- the sharks and rays that al- ted at least 30 sharks of websites for more informa- an incredible lunch at the was spent in Tahiti’s new- lands; at seven minutes, lowed us to enter their wa- several varieties on our tion and packages: water’s edge. est hotel, the Manava Suite it’s one of the shortest tery world. By all means, dive. I Tahiti Tourism: www.tah- While we ate, calm blue Resort, a TripAdvisor commercial flights in the book this excursion, which Jet skiing, glass-bottom ititourism.com waters barely covered our Traveler’s Choice winner world. also includes snorkeling boat cruises and leisurely I Nui: www.airtah- feet. A trumpetfish hov- in 2010. It was perfect for a The exotic surround- with colorful reef fish. lagoon tours are other ways itinui-usa.com ered in the water near me, night’s stay, as the majority ings of the Hilton Moorea you can experience the la- I Hilton Bora Bora Nui: like a pampered pet wait- of its 121 rooms on the edge Lagoon Resort & Spa, our Into the blue lagoon goon’s beauty above the www.Hilton.com/Bora-Bora- ing for his morsel. More of the lagoon offer spec- lodgings for the next sev- As soon as we boarded our water. A visit to the Lagoo- nui likely, it was searching for tacular views of Moorea, eral days, were postcard 45-minute flight from Mo- narium and half- or full- I Hilton Moorea Lagoon: lunch among the small fish our next island destina- perfect from every vantage orea to Bora Bora on Air day Jeep tours of the main www.Hilton.com/Moorea- swimming in the shallow tion. We arranged to stay point. TripAdvisor.com Tahiti, someone suggested island of Bora Bora are also lagoon seawater. This was dining here again on our last named it “Top Hotel for I sit on the left side to get easily arranged. I South Pacific Management al fresco as I’d never expe- night, before our early Romance in the World” in the best views and photos. — Manava Resort (Tahiti) and rienced it. morning flight to L.A. its 2010 Travelers’ Choice Since seeing that aerial French Polynesian Pearl Resorts In case we find our- awards. My thatched roof photo years ago, I wanted dining (Moorea and Bora Bora): selves stranded on a des- Touring Tahiti garden bungalow, sur- to try to photograph it my- If you are a “foodie” like www.spmhotels.com erted island, we were While many visitors im- rounded by bougainvillea, self from this unique van- me, French Polynesian I Cruises: treated to a -husk- mediately leave for other included a private plunge tage point. When it came dining will not disappoint. www.pgcruises.com ing demonstration, then island destinations, we pool on the deck, added as into view, I instantly rec- The chefs at the Hilton (on Land tours tasted the fresh coconut spent most of the follow- part of an $11 million-plus ognized the 18-mile-long Bora Bora and Moorea) cre- Marama Tours, Tahiti: (e-mail) milk. We also learned ways ing day touring Tahiti, the renovation project, com- necklace of islets called atively combined the two [email protected] to tie the traditional color- largest island of French pleted in 2009, of the re- motus, containing its pro- cuisines for unforgettable Torea Nui Tours, Moorea: ful Tahitian wraps called Polynesia. If at all possible, sort’s 104 overwater, tected lagoon and barrier meals. One night, however, (e-mail) [email protected] pareos, worn by both build this into your Tahiti beachfront and garden reef that surround the we left the Hilton in Bora Shopping women and men in French vacation plan. Once you bungalows. main island, and the Bora to go into on I Be sure and shop for Tahi- Polynesia. are out of the hustle-bus- While the main attrac- mountain, Ote Manu, the main island for an eve- tian black pearls. They range On the short boat ride tle of Papeete, this island tion of Moorea may be the which rises as the focal ning at Bloody Mary’s. widely in pricing, size, shape back to the Hilton, one of has its own beauty and crystalline lagoon, an is- point of the mainland. If Named for the character in and colors. Robert Wan, who our Tahitian hosts sang magic to share. land tour is a “must do.” you go, try to grab a left- South Pacific, Bloody Ma- pioneered the local industry and played the ukulele, as You’ll see lush grottos One paved 37-mile road side window seat. ry’s has been visited by ce- in the 1960s, operates shops our private motu disap- and waterfalls, the black circles the island. Awe-in- Bora Bora is, indisput- lebrities from around the in several hotels on Tahiti, peared into the distance. sand beach at Teahupo’o, spiring overlooks, black ably, one of the most beau- world. Diners view the Moorea and Bora Bora. Or This “day in paradise” on where the Billabong Pro sand beaches, ancient tiful islands on earth, evening’s fresh-catch se- find inexpensive black pearls the private islet is one of World Surfing Tourna- Polynesian temples, drives which makes it even harder lections displayed on ice, at the local markets. the most popular excur- ment is held, the light- through pineapple fields to believe that for the early hear how they can be pre- I Also shop for handcrafts, it was a place pared, then place their or- pareos, scented coconut oils, of exile for outcasts. It is no ders. While waiting for our wood-carved tikis, mother-of- longer a place to be ban- meals, we ordered cock- pearl carvings, artwork and ished, but to banish oneself tails, shed our sandals, and fruit jams. — to totally unplug from buried our feet in the white civilization. sand floor. The house spe- Much of the rest of our cialty drink, is, you self-banishment in Bora guessed it, a Bloody Mary. Bora, beyond our day on All too soon, we were the private islet, was spent headed back to Tahiti, in or near the blue lagoon. where we spent the last of We slipped into it from our our French Polynesian overwater bungalows for , the local currency, morning sea baths and and had our most bargain- snorkeled its coral reefs on priced meal at Les Rou- lagoon safari excursions. lottes, an open-air dining One day, while the rest of near the waterfront our group fed the sting- where about two dozen rays, I went diving with food-truck vendors pre- sharks. pare a variety of inexpen- I had scuba dived sive international dishes. throughout the We had Chinese stir-fry at Hilton Bora Bora’s “Day in Par- since 1992 and couldn’t Chez Mamy, then returned adise” excursion on Motu Tapu leave Bora Bora without to our hotel for a few hours’ includes beverage service. Pineapple is the island of Moorea’s main agricultural product, but other tropical fruits are plentiful, spending time below the sleep before our early Special to the Star-Telegram/Debbra too. Special to the Star-Telegram/Debbra Dunning Brouillette surface of the deeper blue morning flight. Dunning Brouillette