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Note on the History of the Innominata Face of Mont Blanc De Courmayeur
1 34 HISTORY OF THE INNOMINATA FACE them difficult but solved the problem by the most exposed, airy and exhilarating ice-climb I ever did. I reckon sixteen essentially different ways to Mont Blanc. I wish I had done them all ! NOTE ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. 1. This was taken from the inner end of Col Eccles in 1921 during the ascent of Mont Blanc by Eccles' route. Pie Eccles is seen high on the right, and the top of the Aiguille Noite de Peteret just shows over the left flank of the Pie. FIG. 2. This was taken from the lnnominata face in 1919 during a halt at 13.30 on the crest of the branch rib. The skyline shows the Aiguille Blanche de Peteret on the extreme left (a snow cap), with Punta Gugliermina at the right end of what appears to be a level summit ridge but really descends steeply. On the right of the deep gap is the Aiguille Noire de Peteret with the middle section of the Fresney glacier below it. The snow-sprinkled rock mass in the right lower corner is Pie Eccles a bird's eye view. FIG. 3. This was taken at the same time as Fig. 2, with which it joins. Pie Eccles is again seen, in the left lower corner. To the right of it, in the middle of the view, is a n ear part of the branch rib, and above that is seen a bird's view of the Punta lnnominata with the Aiguille Joseph Croux further off to the left. -
AIGUILLES and DOLOMITES. by E. Thomas
268 Aiguilles and Dolomites . • AIGUILLES AND DoLOMITES. BY EUSTACE THOMAS. (Read before the Alpine Club, April 4, 1933.) T is four years since an article of mine entitled '· Six Years and the Four Thousanders,' an extension of a list furnished by Captain Farrar, appeared in the ALPINE JOURNAL ; 1 this gave a catalogue of Alpine peaks of a height of 4000 metres or over. My friends take a rather malicious delight in suggesting minor points and perhaps gendarmes on ridges to be added, and it is rather difficult to decide what ought or ought not to be included. Since that date, however, a list has appeared .in La JYlontagne under the signature of our member, Jean Chaubert; and with this I am in agreement. The principal addition was that of the Aiguilles du Diable, which I announced my intention of adding to the bag in my former paper. · In 1929 and 1930 the .Aiguilles du Diable were the principal objects of my desires, but were not in a fit state during my stay in the Alps those years. In 1930 I actually vvent to Chamonix from England for a second time in September ; but the weather changed for the wor$e on my arrival. All other points of Chaubert's list were gathered in however and, where there was any doubt, mountains were revisited. The original list was altered as follows .: Gran Paradiso, two points ; Massif of Mont Blanc two points on the Dome du Gouter were added, Pointe Bayeux and Poi1~te Bravais ; (:}ran des J orasses . Pointe Young was added; Grand Combin completely traversed to include five summits ; Breithorn completely traversed to include five summits; Jungfrau Group Wengern Jungfrau added. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
Area Notes 1993 COMPILED by ROY RUDDLE
Area Notes 1993 COMPILED BY ROY RUDDLE The Alps Lindsay Griffin Tibet and China J6zef Nyka Bhutan J6zef Nyka India Harish Kapadia Nepal Bill 0'Connor Pakistan Paul Nunn Central Asia J6zef Nyka North America H Adams Carter South America David Sharman Middle East Tony Howard New Zealand Richard Thompson LINDSAY GRIFFIN The Alps and Pyrenees 1993 In preparing these notes Lindsay Griffin would like to acknowledge the assist ance of Patrick Gabarrou, Alison Hargreaves, Mireille Lazarevitch, Neil McAdie, Giuseppe Miotti, Brendan Murphy, Michel Piola, Andres Lietha, Simon Richardson, Ian Roper, Franci Savenc, Pierre Tardivel, John Sumner, Dick Turnbull and Dave Wilkinson. He would welcome further information and any new route descriptions for publication in these pages at: 2 Top Sling, Tregarth, Bangor, Gwynedd LL57 4RL. The year saw AC members involved in several important winter as cents, a continuous crossing of all the 4000m peaks in the Alps, plus a fine series of first woman solo ascents. It also saw the demise of two outstanding continental activists: Romain Vogler, one of the greatest Swiss Alpine rock-climbers and full-time guide, died at the age of 34 in a rappelling accident on a crag at Maladiere. It appears that he was making a long rappel and had not set the ropes equally, his weight com ing on to a single strand as he neared the bottom. In May Fred Vimal, France's most promising young Alpinist, was killed whilst trying to solo a hard mixed free/aid route on the Grand Capucin. He was held by his ropes after a 20m fall, but appears to have hit his head and prob ably died of hypothermia. -
The Confessions of Aleister Crowley
The Confessions of Aleister Crowley The Confessions of Aleister Crowley www.Empirical-Academy.com Forward "It seemed to me that my first duty was to prove to the world that I was not teaching Magick for money. I promised myself always to publish my books on an actual loss on the cost of production --- never to accept a farthing for any form of instruction, giving advice, or any other service whose performance depended on my magical attainments. I regarded myself as having sacrificed my career and my fortune for initiation, and that the reward was so stupendous that it made the price pitifully mean, save that, like the widow's mite, it was all I had. I was therefore the wealthiest man in the world, and the least I could do was to bestow the inestimable treasure upon my poverty-stricken fellow men. I made it also a point of absolute honour never to commit myself to any statement that I could not prove in the same sense as a chemist can prove the law of combining weights. Not only would I be careful to avoid deceiving people, but I would do all in my power to prevent them deceiving themselves. This meant my declaring war on the spiritualists and even the theosophists, though I agreed with much of Blavatsky's teachings, as uncompromisingly as I had done on Christianity." file:///C|/Documents and Settings/Doc/Desktop/venomous-magick.com/members/confess/pdf cover.htm (1 of 2) [10/4/2004 5:52:45 PM] The Confessions of Aleister Crowley CONTENTS PART ONE: Towards the Golden Dawn {29} Chapter: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, -
Alpejskie 4-Tysięczniki
Alpejskie 4-tysięczniki Po zdobyciu kilku 4-ro tysięczników przyszło mi do głowy zrobienie listy (a jakże) i kompletowanie pozostałych szczytów. Na stronie Pettera znalazłem potrzebne informacje. W Alpach jest 51 szczytów o wysokości bezwzględnej powyżej 4000 metrów i wybitności nie mniejszej niż 100 metrów, czyli takich, które pasują do definicji „prawdziwej” góry. W 1994 roku UIAA ogłosiła oficjalną listę aż 82 szczytów czterotysięcznych i te dodatkowe 31 są zamieszczone na poniższej liście jako szczyty „nie ujęte w rankingu” (NR). Istnieje wiele punktów spornych na tej liście. Znajdują się na niej wierzchołki o wybitności zaledwie kilkumetrowej, podczas gdy pominięte są na niej wierzchołki o wybitności kilkudziesięciometrowej. Nie planuję wdawać się w dyskusję co jest „prawdziwą” górą a co nią nie jest. Podobnie jak przy innych projektach, tak i tu chodzi przecież o to, by być w ruchu. Kolorem zielonym oznaczam szczyty przeze mnie zdobyte, natomiast kolorem żółtym te, z którymi żadna próba do tej pory się nie powiodła. Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 01 Mont Blanc 4810 4697 PD 02 Dufourspitze 4634 2165 PD 03 Zumsteinspitze 4563 111 F 04 Signalkuppe 4556 102 F 05 Dom 4545 1018 PD 06 Liskamm (east) 4527 376 AD 07 Weisshorn 4505 1055 AD Primary Rank Name Height Difficulty factor 08 Täschhorn 4490 209 AD 09 Matterhorn 4478 1164 AD- 10 Mont Maudit 4465 162 PD 11 Parrotspitze 4436 136 PD 12 Dent Blanche 4356 897 AD 13 Nadelhorn 4327 206 PD 14 Grand Combin 4314 1517 PD+ 15 Finsteraarhorn 4273 2108 PD 16 Mont Blanc du Tacul 4247 -
Les Clochers D'arpette
31 Les Clochers d’Arpette Portrait : large épaule rocheuse, ou tout du moins rocailleuse, de 2814 m à son point culminant. On trouve plusieurs points cotés sur la carte nationale, dont certains sont plus significatifs que d’autres. Quelqu’un a fixé une grande branche à l’avant-sommet est. Nom : en référence aux nombreux gendarmes rocheux recouvrant la montagne sur le Val d’Arpette et faisant penser à des clochers. Le nom provient surtout de deux grosses tours très lisses à 2500 m environ dans le versant sud-est (celui du Val d’Arpette). Dangers : fortes pentes, chutes de pierres et rochers à « varapper » Région : VS (massif du Mont Blanc), district d’Entremont, commune d’Orsières, Combe de Barmay et Val d’Arpette Accès : Martigny Martigny-Combe Les Valettes Champex Arpette Géologie : granites du massif cristallin externe du Mont Blanc Difficulté : il existe plusieurs itinéraires possibles, partant aussi bien d’Arpette que du versant opposé, mais il s’agit à chaque fois d’itinéraires fastidieux et demandant un pied sûr. La voie la plus courte et relativement pas compliquée consiste à remonter les pentes d’éboulis du versant sud-sud-ouest et ensuite de suivre l’arête sud-ouest exposée (cotation officielle : entre F et PD). Histoire : montagne parcourue depuis longtemps, sans doute par des chasseurs. L’arête est fut ouverte officiellement par Paul Beaumont et les guides François Fournier et Joseph Fournier le 04.09.1891. Le versant nord fut descendu à ski par Cédric Arnold et Christophe Darbellay le 13.01.1993. Spécificité : montagne sauvage, bien visible de la région de Fully et de ses environs, et donc offrant un beau panorama sur le district de Martigny, entre autres… 52 32 L’Aiguille d’Orny Portrait : aiguille rocheuse de 3150 m d’altitude, dotée d’aucun symbole, mais équipée d’un relais d’escalade. -
4000Er UIAA-Liste
4000er UIAA-Liste Gipfel Gebiet Höhe Mont Blanc Montblanc-Gruppe 4807 m Mont Blanc de Courmayeur Montblanc-Gruppe 4748 m Dufourspitze Walliser Alpen 4634 m Nordend Walliser Alpen 4609 m Zumsteinspitze Walliser Alpen 4563 m Signalkuppe Walliser Alpen 4556 m Dom Walliser Alpen 4545 m Liskamm Walliser Alpen 4527 m Weisshorn Walliser Alpen 4505 m Täschhorn Walliser Alpen 4491 m Liskamm (Westgipfel) Walliser Alpen 4480 m Matterhorn Walliser Alpen 4477 m Pic Luigi Amedeo Montblanc-Gruppe 4469 m Mont Maudit Montblanc-Gruppe 4465 m Parrotspitze Walliser Alpen 4432 m Dent Blanche Walliser Alpen 4357 m Ludwigshöhe Walliser Alpen 4341 m Nadelhorn Walliser Alpen 4327 m Schwarzhorn Walliser Alpen 4321 m Grand Combin (de Grafeneire) Walliser Alpen 4314 m Dôme du Goûter Montblanc-Gruppe 4304 m Lenzspitze Walliser Alpen 4294 m Finsteraarhorn Berner Alpen 4274 m Mont Blanc du Tacul Montblanc-Gruppe 4248 m Mont Blanc (Südgrat, Grande Pilier d'Angle) Montblanc-Gruppe 4243 m Stecknadelhorn Walliser Alpen 4241 m Castor Walliser Alpen 4226 m Zinalrothorn Walliser Alpen 4221 m Hohberghorn Walliser Alpen 4219 m Piramide Vincent Walliser Alpen 4215 m Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Walker) Montblanc-Gruppe 4208 m Alphubel Walliser Alpen 4206 m Rimpfischhorn Walliser Alpen 4199 m Aletschhorn Berner Alpen 4195 m Strahlhorn Walliser Alpen 4190 m Grand Combin de Valsorey Walliser Alpen 4184 m Grandes Jorasses (Pointe Whymper) Montblanc-Gruppe 4184 m Dent d'Hérens Walliser Alpen 4171 m Breithorn Walliser Alpen 4165 m Breithorn (Mittelgipfel) Walliser Alpen 4160 m Jungfrau -
Mountaineering Ventures
70fcvSs )UNTAINEERING Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY by the ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY 1980 v Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from University of Toronto http://www.archive.org/details/mountaineeringveOObens 1 £1. =3 ^ '3 Kg V- * g-a 1 O o « IV* ^ MOUNTAINEERING VENTURES BY CLAUDE E. BENSON Ltd. LONDON : T. C. & E. C. JACK, 35 & 36 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. AND EDINBURGH PREFATORY NOTE This book of Mountaineering Ventures is written primarily not for the man of the peaks, but for the man of the level pavement. Certain technicalities and commonplaces of the sport have therefore been explained not once, but once and again as they occur in the various chapters. The intent is that any reader who may elect to cull the chapters as he lists may not find himself unpleasantly confronted with unfamiliar phraseology whereof there is no elucidation save through the exasperating medium of a glossary or a cross-reference. It must be noted that the percentage of fatal accidents recorded in the following pages far exceeds the actual average in proportion to ascents made, which indeed can only be reckoned in many places of decimals. The explanation is that this volume treats not of regular routes, tariffed and catalogued, but of Ventures—an entirely different matter. Were it within his powers, the compiler would wish ade- quately to express his thanks to the many kind friends who have assisted him with loans of books, photographs, good advice, and, more than all, by encouraging countenance. Failing this, he must resort to the miserably insufficient re- source of cataloguing their names alphabetically. -
One Hundred Years Ago (With Extracts from the Alpine Journal)
CA RUSSELL One Hundred Years Ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal) (Plates 57-61) he fIrst attempt to ascend Mont Blanc in the twentieth centuryl was T made on Thursday, but without success. Even before the Pierre Pointue was reached the snow was found to be so deep that racquettes had to be used, while at the Grand Junction of the Glacier de Taconna progress was rendered very difficult from the same cause. On reaching Grands Mulets (10,007 feet), it was decided to give up the task of reaching the actual summit owing to the great depth of the snow and the intense cold, and signs ofwind. Moreover, one of the guides was suffering from frostbite. The party, consisting of Mr. Crofts and the guides Joseph Demarchi, Fran~ois Mugnier and Jules Monard spent the night at the Grands Mulets, and descended to Chamonix next morning. The severe conditions experienced by Mr Crofts' party on 17 January 1901 were prolonged by exceptionally cold winds which persisted for several weeks in many Alpine regions. Although little mountaineering was possi ble the fust ski ascents of two peaks were completed: on 30 March Henry Hoek and Ernst Schottelius climbed the Dammastock; and on 28 May Schottelius, accompanied by Friedrich Reichert, reached the summit of the Oberaarhorn. A period of fine weather which commenced in May prompted an early start to the climbing season and by the end of the fIrst week in June a number of successful expeditions had been completed. Throughout Switzerland glorious, warm weather is being experienced, and with it Alpine climbing has begun in real earnest. -
Christophe Dumarest
THE CLIMB INTERVIEW Lucia Prosino talks to CHRISTOPHE DUMAREST France is renowned as a country of exceptional climbers and outstanding mountaineers. Christophe Dumarest is no exception. Behind this highly skilled athlete, however, lies an inventive and attentive person, always ready to crack a joke and eager to share his experiences with others. He’s climbed extensively in the Greater Ranges and opened many new routes in the Alps, such as Tifenn (V6 A1 M8+, 1100 m) on the Aiguille Sans Nom, Destruction Massive (M7/IV, 400m) on the north face of the Tournier Spur on the Droites, and Jean-Chri (7a+, A1, 800 m) on the, Hidden Pillar of Freney. He’s also repeated some of the famous hard modern classics in the range, such as the Lesueur Route (ED3, M8+, 900 m) on the north face of the Dru, and the Gousseault/Desmaison (M7+, 1100m) route with a direct variation. But he prefers to spend his time devising his next enchainments, with a keen eye on the aesthetics of the mountain range in question, and the historical aspects of the routes he chooses to link up. Lucia Prosino recently spoke to Christophe about his life and climbs, the role of ethics in the sport, and the enduring respect he has for British climbers and mountaineers. Mont Blanc is your home and your playground. (Largo’s Route, ED1, W16, M5 X 5c). Why are a lot of Can you still write history there? strong alpinists going to China these days? Well I started going to the mountains aged four, and before ten I China is an immense country, rich in history and traditions, had already gone up a 4000 metre peak in the Mont Blanc area, all still pretty much unknown. -
Patrick Gabarrou : La Montagne Lui a Tendu Les Bras
Publié le 21 juillet 2005(Mise à jour le 27/12) Par Jean-François Cullafroz Patrick Gabarrou : La montagne lui a tendu les bras Pèlerin de la terre et du ciel, c’est le titre d’une prière qui habite ce montagnard. Patrick Gabarrou vit depuis trente ans en vallée d’Arve, dans les Alpes. Il aime guider les personnes handicapées physiques pour admirer les plus hauts sommets d’Europe. Le 6 juin 2004, dans la nuit anniversaire du débarquement, Patrick Gabarrou, alpiniste de haut vol, ouvrait une nouvelle voie dans les Alpes françaises sur le versant est du Mont-Blanc du Tacul. Une longue équipée réalisée avec Pierre Darbellay, un collègue suisse de Verbier. « Cela faisait longtemps que j’avais repéré ce passage et j’attendais le moment propice. Deux jours auparavant, j’étais allé faire du ski de randonnée là-haut, sur le versant italien. La neige et la glace étaient de belle qualité. Alors, j’ai appelé Pierre », raconte le guide de haute montagne installé aux Carroz-d’Arâches, en Haute-Savoie. Ils s’étaient retrouvés quelques mois plus tôt dans les Aravis, dans une goulotte de glace près de La Clusaz. Ils se connaissaient peu mais, dès les premières impressions échangées, ils se sont dit qu’ils pourraient un jour faire route ensemble. « Faire une première à deux, c’est extraordinaire ! Au fil des heures, on sent naître une symbiose qui s’enracine dans la confiance des efforts partagés. Et puis, quand on est là-haut, après dix-neuf heures de montée, c’est un émerveillement commun.