Christophe Dumarest
THE CLIMB INTERVIEW Lucia Prosino talks to CHRISTOPHE DUMAREST France is renowned as a country of exceptional climbers and outstanding mountaineers. Christophe Dumarest is no exception. Behind this highly skilled athlete, however, lies an inventive and attentive person, always ready to crack a joke and eager to share his experiences with others. He’s climbed extensively in the Greater Ranges and opened many new routes in the Alps, such as Tifenn (V6 A1 M8+, 1100 m) on the Aiguille Sans Nom, Destruction Massive (M7/IV, 400m) on the north face of the Tournier Spur on the Droites, and Jean-Chri (7a+, A1, 800 m) on the, Hidden Pillar of Freney. He’s also repeated some of the famous hard modern classics in the range, such as the Lesueur Route (ED3, M8+, 900 m) on the north face of the Dru, and the Gousseault/Desmaison (M7+, 1100m) route with a direct variation. But he prefers to spend his time devising his next enchainments, with a keen eye on the aesthetics of the mountain range in question, and the historical aspects of the routes he chooses to link up. Lucia Prosino recently spoke to Christophe about his life and climbs, the role of ethics in the sport, and the enduring respect he has for British climbers and mountaineers. Mont Blanc is your home and your playground. (Largo’s Route, ED1, W16, M5 X 5c). Why are a lot of Can you still write history there? strong alpinists going to China these days? Well I started going to the mountains aged four, and before ten I China is an immense country, rich in history and traditions, had already gone up a 4000 metre peak in the Mont Blanc area, all still pretty much unknown.
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