{ scents & accountability } Tapping into Residual Light

DECONSTRUCTING THE COLOR GRADATION OF ROSÉ by Deborah Parker Wong

WHILE THE LEVEL of residual sugar flowers, and fruits show us red, purple, or For example, medium-hued Tempranillo plays a role in the finished style of a wine, blue hues depending on their pH levels. rosés from Rioja routinely clock in at 14% the color of all wines—and the color of The wide variety of colors found in ABV or greater, but the pale beauties of everything we see, for that matter—is wine and the evolution of color over time Provence tend to hover around 12% ABV. determined by residual light. Any system- as wine ages is captivating, but the wine “The color and luminous clarity of the atic analysis of wine begins with a careful style with the most variety of color is wine captures your attention for a few observation of color, as what we see is undoubtedly rosé. Some of the best ex- seconds—just long enough to pause and the result of light waves being reflected by amples of the differences between lighter appreciate its beauty,” says Winemaker compounds in the liquid. and darker rosés can be found in southern Anthony Beckman of Balletto Vineyards in The plant pigments associated with France, where Provençal rosés made from Santa Rosa, California. Beckman produces flower and fruit coloration are known Grenache blends range from yellow and a sparkling rosé of Pinot Noir and Char- as flavonoids, with the most commonly pale pink to salmon. Its neighboring region donnay with an ethereal coral tint. known being the anthocyanins—derived Bandol in the Rhône Valley, meanwhile, Researchers have made a few important from the Greek words for flower and blue, produces deeper ruby wines from dark- discoveries about the effects color has on anthos and kyanos. These water-soluble hued varieties like Mourvèdre. moods, feelings, and behaviors, indicating pigments found in leaves, stems, roots, A rosé wine’s color can provide some that some seem to carry universal mean- clues as to how it was made, but it’s the ing. In the case of rosé, shades of pale pink winemaker’s intention—and, in some are described as relaxing, while very bright, cases, adjustments prior to bottling—that vibrant shades can be stimulating or even determine the final hue. Less pigment typi- aggravating. According to studies from the cally means less time in contact with the Provence Wine Council (CIVP), consum- skins, while darker colors point to longer ers in the U.S., Russia, and Australia appear maceration times and higher levels of to have shed the gender stereotyping alcohol in the finished wine. associated with the color pink, as equal numbers of male and female consumers are enjoying the residual light of rosé. PHOTO COURTESY OF PLPROD VIA ADOBE STOCK ADOBE VIA OF PLPROD COURTESY PHOTO

{ SOMMjournal.com } 35

Somm Journal June-July_34-71_KNV2.indd 35 5/30/18 1:54 PM