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Home , Abando, Abandoibarra, Alberto Palacio, Artium Museum, Atxondo, Balmaseda

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INDEX

Jose Luis 5 Bilbao & Bizkaia 6 Bizcayans 11 Bilbao Zones 20 Architecture 25 Design 45 Fashion 51 Accommodation 61 Gastronomy haute cuisine 75 signature cuisine 83 market cuisine 91 eateries with charm 97 tastes of the world 105 “menu del día” set lunch menu 111 bar food 117 123 Galleries 129 Stages 135 Live Music 141 NightLive 147 Bars & Drinks Venues 153 Coffee´s 161 LGBT Scene 169 Beaches of 191 Escapes 197 Annual Events 205 Getting There & Around 207 Useful Information 216 4 5

The idea behind creating this guidebook is not just to promote Biscay and Bilbao among tourists throughout , but also to create awareness among the citizens of the continent’s major cities about our way of life, and to reveal our wonderful city, a contemporary example of urban regeneration admired the world over. Bilbao is the capital of Biscay, one of the most developed communities in Europe, playing a central role in the prosperity and development of the Basque Country. Visitors will discover a Biscay immersed in nature and culture, architecture and art, a province that is open- minded and diverse, tolerant and respectful towards all different lifestyle choices. Biscay is modern and cosmopolitan but also welcoming and friendly, mindful of its past, whilst also passionate and decisive about the future. We invite you to set aside any stereotypes, allow yourself to be surprised, come and find out what we’re really like. We await you with open arms.

Jose Luis Bilbao President of the Biscay Regional Council 6 BILBAO & BIZKAIA Since its origins Bilbao has been a and congress centres. The major city with a great industrial tradition. fashion labels can also be found However, at the end of the 20th in Bilbao -Carolina Herrera, century the iron and steel industry Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Loewe...-, fell into a deep crisis, forcing the alongside the proposals of the main city to rethink the basics of its European designers, with Basque economic development. This fashion playing a leading role uncertainty was captured in through brands such as Mercedes an article published in 1988 by de Miguel, Alicia Rueda, Ion journalist Juan Carlos Salaverri Fiz, Skunkfunk, Loreak Mendian in Ajoblanco magazine, a leading and Mirian Ocariz. Gastronomy cultural reference of the time, is another of the distinguishing entitled “Is Bilbao moving?” The features of Biscay and Bilbao, article closed with the question: “Is with many illustrious restaurants Bilbao moving or dying?”. Twenty serving contemporary cuisine and years later, we know the answer. also cosy local establishments The institutions of Biscay made offering up the finest of Basque a commitment to transformation, fare. Bilbao is a city that looks to making Bilbao an example of urban the future, its buildings reflecting its regeneration and a benchmark unstoppable transformation -some model for the rest of the world. designed by prestigious architects Bilbao has regained its dynamism such as Norman Foster, Cesar by becoming a city of services Pelli, , Santiago and embracing environmental and Calatrava, Frank O. Ghery, Zaha urban recovery. The old industrial Hadid and - but it is plots located along the banks of a city that never forgets where its the river have been transformed true heart resides: on the streets of into new and modern recreational its old quarter. spaces for residents and visitors to enjoy. This spectacular change However, Biscay is much more has transformed Bilbao into an than just Bilbao. Visitors who essential point of reference in come drawn by the lure of modern, the European panorama. The cosmopolitan Bilbao will also capital of Biscay is today, all discover Biscay, a privileged region over the world, synonymous with filled with natural landscapes dynamism and creation, a meeting and idyllic beaches. In less than place for all who are interested in half an hour, thanks to a modern architecture, design, gastronomy, public transport network, you can leisure pursuits and culture. visit enchanting coastal towns Nowadays, the or delve into rural Biscay and area offers broad-ranging its natural and marvellous proposals including film, theatre enclaves, with its green hills and and shows, an opera season, the hospitality of its inhabitants countless art galleries, world- keeping you company on your renowned museums, trade fairs travels. 7

Biscay is a province of the Basque Country. It covers 2,217 square kilome- tres and has 1,136,852 inhabitants. Two official languages are spoken in Biscay: Basque, the local language of the Bas- que Country itself and Spanish, the offi- cial language of the Spanish state. The of Biscay is Bilbao, founded in 1300 by Don Diego López de Haro, Lord of Biscay. Biscay is the economic, social and cultural driving force of the Basque Country.

INFORMATION: www.bizkaia.net www.bilbao.net 8 9

“Of all the places I would like to work, the first is Bilbao. I would love to do another building there “. 10 11

BISCAYANS

Four native Biscayans give us a few good reasons to visit Biscay and Bilbao. 12 13 ALEX DE LA IGLESIA Bilbao, 1965. Film director. www.alexdelaiglesia.com. President of the Spanish Film Academy since 2009, Alex de la Iglesia is, alongside Pedro Almodóvar and Alejandro Amenábar, the main reference for Spanish cinema worldwide. Films such as “The day of the Beast”, “Dance with the Devil” and “Common Wealth” have an enthusiastic following throughout Europe, Japan and the US. Rolling Stone magazine published an article entitled “Alex and Bilbao”, a highly personal view of the filmmaker on his city. Here are some of his recommendations: To Alex “Bilbao is indefinable, like the universe itself. Having said that, how can one tackle the hardest task that one can be asked to undertake? I mean, how can I talk about the capital of the world without overlooking someone? How can I describe the beauty that is hidden in the brownish grey tones of the River?” The article is entirely focused on the city’s gastronomy and its bars. If you want to “eat for real”, Alex suggests “Rimbombin, on Hurtado Amezaga. It’s got the best seafood and most attentive waiting staff I know, and Gure Kide, on Estraunza”. One of his passions are the local lamb kebabs, known as ‘ morunos’: “I would start by saying that in Bilbao you just can’t miss the ‘pinchos morunos’. That’s right: char-grilled lamb, cumin and cayenne pepper: a tasty morsel unknown to the rest of the peninsula. The original birthplace of the ‘’, the place where the Arabs copied them from, is Iturribide Street, in the Old Quarter, at y Fez. The ‘pinchos’ there are a life necessity. Prepared by the same team of professionals, you can also stuff yourself with ‘pincho’ kebabs at the Iruña, located in Jardines de Albia, which is somewhat like ’s famous Café Gijón (only better)”. His other passion are ‘rabas’ (squid rings fried in batter), referred to in as ‘calamares’. In Alex’s opinion ‘rabas’ are “another local product that we cannot overlook. There is an age-old controversy confronting the classic Artajo, on Ledesma, with the magnificent Gure Toki, in Plaza Nueva, and the unforgettable Serantes, on Alameda Urquijo. I shall dispense with odious comparisons: at all of these temples of culinary wisdom we can delight our stomachs with the best calamari on the planet, battered to perfection. And what do you think of the “felipadas” served up at the Alameda, beside the Alhóndiga? Or the “triangulos” at the Eme?”. To immerse oneself in Bilbao’s nightlife, Alex recommends “the legendary Muga run by proprietor Juancar, beside Unamuno Square, and Katu and Gure Txoko, on Barrenkale, and also on that same street, Txomin Barullo, where they have private room where you can have a bloody great dinner (beg your pardon)”. To top off the night, Alex recommends the “brilliant Umore Ona (heavy stuff). They still play the Rolling Stones there”. And, if you’re looking for a happy ending?: “After the hard battle, the night’s survivors end up in the legendary La Tortilla, in front of City Hall. What a pleasure to see the sunrise from behind a plate of mussels! When you leave the bar, you cross the bridge over the river and the impure air fills your lungs. The odd time I slip and fall into the river, but who cares? I’m from Bilbao”. 14 15 MIRIAM OCARIZ (Bilbao, 1968). Fashion designer. www.miriamocariz.com Miriam Ocariz set up her firm in 1998 and in 2002 won the L’Oreal Paris Award for best young designer collection. Since 2009 she has been distributing her designs all over the world. Her collection was selected to inaugurate Madrid’s Cibeles Fashion Week 2010. For Miriam, “Bilbao is a perfect place to spend a weekend or long weekend. It’s just the right size to be able to stroll around leisurely, no rushing, no stress”. She recommends seeking accommodation at “the modern hotels dotted throughout the newly developed urban districts or the intimate hotels and charming apartments in the Old Quarter”. For eating out, she reckons that in “el botxo”, as Bilbao is often referred to locally, “anywhere is good. Traditional restaurants thrive in Bilbao, as do the most contemporary culinary names”. For a drink, Miriam suggests “following the footsteps of the local pub-crawlers, around the streets of the Old Quarter, where a nice glass of red wine or the local white “” always goes down well”. The Old Quarter is also one of her favourite places to for “pintxos” (tapas), though not the only one. She maintains that the best bars for tapas are “in the Plaza Nueva and on Jardines, Perro, Santa María and Diputación streets”. For the sweet- toothed visitor, she recommends “the truffles at Arrese, the ice-creams at Alaska, the nougat at Turronería Ibáñez and the sweet toast at the restaurant Perro Chico”. When it comes to night life, Miriam Ocariz opts for the venues located “on the outskirts of La Merced”. Fashion is her world, which makes her opinions in this area all the more valuable. She is decisive in her views: “Persuade is a must”. For accessories with a special touch, her favourite haunts are “Tokyo Story, Charada, Coquelot, Cloche and Trudivora”. Miriam also has her favourite hair salons and assures us that “at Logan and Cutter you can get whatever you want”. Miriam’s favourite spots around the city are “Doña Casilda , the Funicular Railway and Artxanda Park”. Lastly, in her opinion, the reasons that make visiting Bilbao so worthwhile are manifold: “the of Fine Arts, the Guggenheim, the art galleries around the Ensanche district, the vestiges of the city’s magnificent industrial past and its flourishing urban development, visiting Bilbao “La Vieja”, an old district now revamped, with alternative shops bringing a breath of fresh air, and the odd art gallery, like Espacio Marzana, to boot”. 16 17

DANA GARDEAZABAL Bilbao, 1969. Teacher. Dana Gardeazabal has a degree in Sociology from New York State University and a Masters in Education from Manhattanville College, NY. Currently she teaches at Ardsley High School, Ardsley, New York. She has been living away from Bilbao for 20 years, which means she gets to rediscover her own city each time she comes back. For Dana, Bilbao possesses “a beauty that lures you in at first, but in time wins your love”. She maintains that any time of year is good for a visit, although she prefers to come “at fiesta time in Bilbao, known as , which is mid-August”. For accommodation she opts for a charming little hotel outside Bilbao, on the Biscayan coast, Hotel El Puerto, in . To eat out she also chooses one of Biscay’s nicest spots, the Asador carvery, in Axpe-. When it comes to going out for tapas, or “pintxos” as they are referred to locally, she never strays from Bilbao’s Old Quarter, “to me, the best ones are found at Gatz and Xukela, and, when it comes to drinks, the martini cocktail served at Ander on Barrenkale”. A lover of sweets and chocolate, Dana is not hesitant to recommend the Pastelería Arrese confectioner’s, on Gran Vía, “for the best butter buns in the world”. At night, a compulsory visit to Bizitza, on Torre Street, “this café has a great charm and really good service; I always meet someone I know there”. Moving away from gastronomy, Dana Gardeazabal highlights the great dress sense of the natives of Bilbao. Whenever she visits Bilbao, she drops in to the boutique Loreak Mendian in Plaza Nueva, “where I buy clothes that my friends from New York just love. I also take the opportunity to say hi to my friend Eva, who owns the store”. It is clear that Dana feels at home in the Old Quarter and so it is not surprising that her favourite place to buy some fun accessories is Gili Gili, on Lotería Street: “I love the colour and originality of their garments and accessories”. For a haircut, Dana recommends La Baraque hair salon, on Carnicería Vieja, also in the . When she wants to lose herself in the city, she retreats to the fine arts museum “the Museo de Bellas Artes, specifically the room housing the permanent collection, just in front of the “Trembling Irons II” sculpture by Chillida”. And, lastly, a recommendation for all future visitors to Bilbao and Biscay: “Mundaka is a must-see destination, a beautiful town on the Biscayan cost, flocked to by surfers from all over the world”. 18 19

EDUARDO SORROUILLE (, 1970). Artist. www.eduardosorrouille.com Eduardo Sorrouille is one of the emerging artists on today’s Basque art scene. He medium is photography, a technique which is rapidly gaining ground in the world of contemporary art. In 2009 the Artium Museum Centre in Vitoria hosted a major exhibition of his work, with over 170 photographs, under the title “Villa Edur”. Eduardo is an expert on Bilbao and its people. When asked what Bilbao is to him, Eduardo responds that “it’s the city where my friends live”. For accommodation options he recommends several hotels, from the classic Hotel Carlton to the more modern Domine, Meliá, Miro and Hesperia. When it comes to choosing a restaurant, he can’t narrow it down to just one either. He knows a lot of places where you can eat really well in Bilbao and his recommendations prove just what an avid foodie he is. He likes the creative cuisine at Arbolagaña, located in the Fine Arts Museum, the traditional dishes served up at Lar on Amistad street, Rotterdam in the Old Quarter, and La Viña. He also points out a couple of Bilbao’s most singular restaurants: Casa Rufo situated inside a grocery shop, and Perro Chico, a legend of Bilbao’s bohemia. Although he claims he likes “almost all the bars in Bilbao”, he has two favourite haunts. Firstly, La Gallina Ciega, which he classifies as “exquisite”, and secondly Amor de Madre, “great vibe”. For tapas, locally referred to as “pintxos”, his favourites include Gatz, the bars in the Plaza Nueva, Bitoque, in the Albia Gardens, Globo on Diputación, and the Spanish omelettes at Kepa Landa in Ensanche square”. For something sweet, he would head to the two temples of bakery in Bilbao: “La Suiza, for “pantxinetas” (puffed pastry filled with crème pâtissière) and other sweet goodies, and Arrese for their truffles”. Being somewhat the authority on nightlife in Bilbao, Eduardo highlights “Public Lounge for something cosmopolitan, Badulake for a touch of eclectic, and Splash&Crash at the Hotel Domine, for cocktails”. When it comes to fashion, Eduardo has no misgivings: “undoubtedly Persuade on Villarías street, art and creation in clothes and furniture”. If you’re looking for fun accessories, he likes what you can find at “Almoneda Campos, run by the ever unusual Iñaki, and Charada in the Old Quarter, with Lourdes Madow, an icon in Bilbao”. For a haircut, he vouches for “Cutter in the Old Quarter, with Jorge, and José Ignacio Elejaga”. Eduardo also has a few other favourite spots around Bilbao: “the Marzana Gallery-Space on Marzana quay and its walkway, looking down on the greater Bilbao area from Artxanda, the new Tower, Isabel Madinabeitia and her auction space or the Museum of Fine Arts, with its magnificent collection”. Lastly, he feels that visiting Bilbao is very worthwhile “it’ll make you a little happier”. TR AV ES IA T TIB HUERTAS IB OL 20 DE LA VILLA O I L A I TAN QUIN PASEO C BILBAO ZONES AMPO VOLANTIN O UGASK S LVE - E LA SA N Five districts, from the old quarter TUNEL D E CAMPA DE LO JA LLE S INGLES to the newly emerged urban spaces MUE ES

PASEO URIBITARTE M

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around the Guggenheim Museum and E

L L V E D the river, through the Ensanche district, A D . D IBIDE A EL E ITURR LA E M P all the way to the city’s highlands. ED A A A M R LZ AZ E A AR N I R A D ED UN O L RS LE AO LB O BI L UA DE A ED NC O EZ N R AI A A Ñ I E N A U C I L BILBAO “LA VIEJA” R R R R E R B G O A A R R H I E E E A R R E T C R BA U A R E UIR A Z G A RRA R E R AG R L E VA OS R A IA R NA O B N M UZ MA R L O HER A M H I AR OLD QUARTER A B JU L S I A ER C C O A E ÓN A E U D D D R L X N O O SM T R N E A E C E D E R A JU S E GUGGENHEIM M L O L B

U K JA A I A A P

C O Y H L B IA ÓN C A A O ID L M A E R R N E O RA E B T N A E S R H I O U R O R A E R L A UD R V I R R E L G A A E G I S T O A O D E H I A P E A T OT T E S S N U U B M EA D IN O O R T Z D L ZABAL I A D R M BIDE R E R M E R A A A C P R E L A O A E A B R D I A R N R O L J P R A E A G A O Ó Q O T Z L A N G SA T O U E A NTA E R L I MA T C K E D Z B S L E L E B C A I I S N A B E N J K O E A A L A P A L

A R A C D D R O

O R R E E E O A A M R

C G L A I E J

A Í J B . N R D C

R E L S I

Y V I R I A A I L B R R I V N A R . U N A O T O E E

N A D A V I U G A U R I A Ó Z E I T N O E U E E R U R I K A M A T D A E R EN G Q K L R A Q R A E A D E E O D JA B E D A L I R E E V R A L R L R R T A A L E R N L A E G M C A P L E O U E L A A E L U N A E E N E A U D Ó A J Museo Diocesano ID D IA L R ADO A R T D O T

N S M O de Arte Sacro N T C O N E A E

C R E

V L VI E L L e Iglesia de

U I A B DO M I

A R A A A

J UA H la Encarnación

B B E D M L I E I E . N M NA I R V PS A A UELLE DE M ZA R A AR U R A X A I LAMANA N K C T U I E I S R X G T M A U N I E E A O O R R H A I L B A I ID R U Z N A I A A UE E E K S R G G L AV A P RI CA BE O U N D O I R D O N A I O E W R H R R H E E R I E R D P L É Z E V E A A LA P A O ID I C O R Z J R L O I D N O R P E U M O U O V Ñ L G A A O A A E IE D Q N G A S D L G IA R O N ISC C IA A N L C U C U N L É O I N A A R E R A S DA G I F C R C D N A O A I SA S U J Í L A L E TE D . V R R M R D S O S N A R A CO IS A L U I R C E L A P A M E A O M E R I AN T G A E S GR E O D G A G O R P NA D M MI A D E E I I I A L A D R A V C N L N S U E L D E E A R E A L Ñ D S A V R B O A Z T A A IAS E CONC R EPCIÓN E L A D N T G Z D Á R E E U E U O N A R R B V I D IG E R . A I M C JO F G O P DR I U C R S T G U E N O E S A Q O N T O RO O R R N C O O R U E E R Í R E A E P J D R A D C U S G E R I A A N D M Ó L L A O A A N I B N I L O O G A A R A L A R Z A J Z O I AMES C G C U O P O SAN M G EDA O A A M D O LAM A I M R D A D R R IN E IA A N K E M R A O C R C I HA N E D S E A A A J E L H A O IC L URI N L I A M F R L A A E R M A L O Z C IC A E A . IO ID Í N A Ñ S V V A R N IM A Z E M I G E E O G L E K ABAL R N A L O J N A DON M I O O A L OSTIA D IJ U D S U A A Q E E É R L U ÍA A A M D L I E L O R AM E N A L M N O A T L A D U A R AR E A M Í IV A A L A A O N J B U O R D N S Í I Ó A DEUST A A M E VIE O I T LD IJ Z S U A S R K A U D CANA C RQ A S Y S I U B E Ó A A T B A A I TELA D N H LD A D POS O A L IR I COM A G O DE B A AME O E Z N ANTIAG G L S R E A E S A A R V R A C O PE L A BE A I E U íA A OR BE U INOS IB Z G R ESP A A E CTO R L AL R DO O R A E Z CAZA E N A PI L A GE L L R AV A RUA E A . D S BA U N L N EL A MARTÍ M A FE R RR E S O A N Ó CA Í E LD R M G A R O L G íA N U I O U G L T I E S L U A Z A A G G E R A R B E U É N BE P R E LA R I G Ñ G O T E A A D U T O S E A S B O V O LA K R EN T O A N D I S IC A A D DEU N Y Z V A RIBE DE N . O S RA A A D AN S T N E EL AD O IZ R NK PA FE IÁ ZA BL RR N O OC DE A MUEL UCA RR LE ALFONSO CHURR AL IL ZO LA

DEO EVI A AVE MONT Z NIDA DE AN TE R PA TR AV ES IA T TIB HUERTA IB OL S DE LA VILLA O I 21 L A I TAN QUIN PASEO C AMPO VOLANTIN

O UGASK S LVE - E LA SA N TUNEL D E CAMPA DE LO JA LLE S INGLES MUE ES

PASEO URIBITARTE M

U

E

L L V E D A D . D IBIDE A EL E ITURR LA E M P ED A A A M R LZ AZ E A AR N I R A D ED UN O L RS LE AO LB O BI L UA DE A ED NC O EZ N R AI A A Ñ I E R N A U C I L R R E R R B G O A A R R H I E E E A R R E T C R BA U A R E UIR A Z G A RRA R E R AG R L E VA OS R A IA R NA O B N M UZ MA R L HER A M H I O A B JU LAR S I A ER C C O A E ÓN A E U D D D R L X N O O SM T R N E A E C E D E R A JU S E L B M L O

U K JA A I A A P

C O Y H L B IA ÓN C A A O ID L M A E R R N E O RA E B T

A E S R H NU R O A I O E R L R A UD R V I R R E L G A A E G I S T O A O D E H I A P E A T OT T E S S N U U B M EA D IN O O R T Z D L ZABAL I A D R M BIDE R E R M E R A A A C P R E L A O A E A B R D I A R N R O L J P R A E A G A O Ó Q O T Z L A N G SA T O U E A NTA E R L I MA T C RIA K E D Z B S L E L E B C A I I S N A B E N J K O E A A L A P A L A R A C D D R

O R R E E E O A A M R C G L A I E

A Í J B . N R D C R E L S

Y V I R I A A I L B R R I V N A R . U N A O T O E E N A D A V I

G A U R I A Ó Z E I T N O E U E E R U R I K A M A T D A E R EN G Q K L R A Q R A E A D E E O D JA B E D A L I R E E V R A L R L R R T A A L E R N L A E G M C A P L E O U E L A A E L U N A E E N E A U D Ó A J Museo Diocesano ID D IA L R ADO A R T D O T N S M O de Arte Sacro T C O N E A E C R V L VI E

L e Iglesia de U A B DO M I A R A A

J UA H la Encarnación B E D M L I E I E . N M NA I R V PS A A UELLE DE M ZA R A AR U R A X A I LAMANA N K C T U I E I S R X G T M A U N I E E A O O R R H A I L B A I ID R U Z N A I A A UE E E K S R G G L AV A P RI CA BE O U N D O I R D O N A I O E W R H R R H E E R I E R D P L É Z E V E A A LA P A O ID I C O R Z J R L O I D N O R P E U M O U O V Ñ L G A A O A A E IE D Q N G A S D L G IA R O N ISC C IA A N L C U C U N L É O I N A A R E R A S DA G I F C R C D N A O A I SA S U J Í L A L E TE D . V R R M R D S O S N A R A CO IS A L U I R C E L A P A M E A O M E R I AN T G A E S GR E O D G A G O R P NA D M MI A D E E I I I A L A D R A V C N L N S U E L D E E A R E A L Ñ D S A V R B O A Z T A A IAS E CONC R EPCIÓN E L A D N T G Z D Á R E E U E U O N A R R B V I D IG E R . A I M C JO F G O P DR I U C R S T G U E N O E S A Q O N T O RO O R R N C O O R U E E R Í R E A E P J D R A D C U S G E R I A A N D M Ó L L A O A A N I B N I L O O G A A R A L A R Z A J Z O I AMES C G C U O P O SAN M G EDA O A A M D O LAM A I M R D A D R R IN E IA A N K E M R A O C R C I HA N E D S E A A A J E L H A O IC L URI N L I A M F R L A A E R M A L O Z C IC A E A . IO ID Í N A Ñ S V V A R N IM A Z E M I G E E O G L E K ABAL R N A L O J N A DON M I O O A L OSTIA D IJ U D S U A A Q E E É R L U ÍA A A M D L I E L O R AM E N A L M N O A T L A D U A R AR E A M Í IV A A L A A O N J B U O R D N S Í I Ó A DEUST A A M E VIE O I T LD IJ Z S U A S R K A U D CANA C RQ A S Y S I U B E Ó A A T B A A I TELA D N H LD A D POS O A L IR I COM A G O DE B A AME O E Z N ANTIAG G L S R E A E S A A R V R A C O PE L A BE A I E U íA A OR BE U INOS IB Z G R ESP A A E CTO R L AL R DO O R A E Z CAZA E N A PI L A GE L L R AV A RUA E A . D S BA U N L N EL A MARTÍ M A FE R RR E S O A N Ó CA Í E LD R M G A R O L G íA N U I O U G L T I E S L U A Z A A G G E R A R B E U É N BE P R E LA R I G Ñ G O T E A A D U T O S E A S B O V O LA K R EN T O A N D I S IC A A D DEU N Y Z V A RIBE DE N . O S RA A A D AN S T N E EL AD O IZ R NK PA FE IÁ ZA BL RR N O OC DE A MUEL UCA RR LE ALFONSO CHURR AL IL ZO LA

DEO EVI A AVE MONT Z NIDA DE AN TE R PA 22

ABANDO Known as the Bilbao city enlargement, with the backbone being the main street Gran Vía de Don Diego López de Haro, from Plaza Circular to Plaza Federico Moyúa, Abando is the city’s main commercial and financial district. Stately buildings stand alongside the most avant-garde architecture. Must sees: Palacio de la Diputación Foral de Bizkaia (Biscay Regional Council Building), Plaza de Federico Moyúa, Chavarri Building, the art galleries on Juan de Ajuriaguerra,... See Routes section (Gran Vía).

BILBAO “LA VIEJA” A once dilapidated area regenerated thanks to support from institutions and several gay and citizen collectives, now the Bilbao “La Vieja” district is at the height of urban and commercial regeneration. Must sees: Dos de Mayo Street, Bilborock, Reproductions Musuem,... See Routes section (Dos de Mayo).

OLD QUARTER Bilbao’s Old Quarter () is a hub of shopping and catering activity, with well-established fashion boutiques, hotels and guesthouses, bars and restaurants, churches and historical and architectural treasures, squares and museums. Must sees: the Arenal riverside area, the Plaza Nueva, the Arriaga Theatre, the Santiago Cathedral, the Ribera Market,... Substantial gay community. See Routes section. 23 ARCHI- TECTURE GUGGENHEIM All around the Guggenheim Museum, DESIGN along the banks of the river, a new Bilbao has emerged, modern and dynamic, with art, culture and architecture at

the forefront. Must sees: Guggenheim FASHION Museum, Euskalduna Jauregia, Zubi Zuri Bridge, Isozaki, Atea, Paseo de Uribitarte, ,... See Routes DATION section (from City Hall to the Euskalduna ACCOMMO- Bridge). NOMY GASTRO- INDAUTXU The avant-garde Plaza de Indautxu gives its name to a stately district full of shops and restaurants, where the best MUSEUMS fashions, accessories, food and drink can be found in abundance. Must sees:

Plaza Indautxu, Alhóndiga Bilbao, Ercilla GALLERIES pedestrian area, Building,... STAGES LIVE MUSIC LIFE NIGHT To facilitate the use of the guidebook, we have divided Bilbao into five districts, each assigned a different DRINK BARS & colour. VENUES ABANDO BILBAO “LA VIEJA” CASCO VIEJO (OLD QUARTER) COFFE´S GUGGENHEIM

INDAUTXU LGBT SCENE BEACHES 24 25 ARCHI- TECTURE

ARCHITECTURE

The opening of the Guggenheim Museum marked a star- ting point for the spectacular transformation undergone by the city of Bilbao in recent years. Without the commit- ted support of the institutions of Biscay to the building of the museum, Bilbao would not have become the city we know today. A Bilbao that is an example of urban rege- neration the world over, as demonstrated by its presence at the 2010 Shanghai World Expo and the fact that it has been awarded the World City Prize, otherwise dubbed the Nobel prize for cities, by Singa- pore and the Swedish Nobel Academy, commending Bilbao as “the best urban regeneration achievement in the world”. 26

ALHÓNDIGA BILBAO Alameda Rekalde, 56. Tel.: 944014014 www.alhondigabilbao.com Open from Monday to Sunday, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. An old wine warehouse, designed by native Bilbao architect Ri- cardo Bastida and converted at the hands of Philippe Starck into an avant-garde cultural and sports centre with a surface space of 43,000 square metres: swimming pools, cinemas, auditorium, exhibition hall, media library, restaurant, design shops,... A uni- que and innovative urban space, the image of the new Bilbao. 27 ARCHI- TECTURE

PALACIO DIPUTACIÓN FORAL – COUNCIL BUILDINGS Gran Vía, 25. www.bizkaia.net Visits: [email protected]. Metro: . ABANDO. Headquarters of the Diputación Foral de Bizkaia (Biscay Regio- nal Council). Stately building designed at the turn of the 19th century by architect Luis Aladren in a very eclectic style made clear by the use of elements from several different historical styles, the highlights of which are the special attention given to the composition of the façades and the overall ornate appearan- ce. Comprises a basement, mezzanine, two storeys, attic and roof terrace. 28

AYUNTAMIENTO DE BILBAO – CITY HALL Plaza de Ernesto Erkoreka, 1. www.bilbao.net Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO Inaugurated in 1892, the building that houses the Bilbao City Council was designed by architect Joaquín Rucoba, who also created the Arrai- ga Theatre. Its highlights include the lavishly decorated Baroque façade and the busts and statues adorning it (representing illustrious figures of Bilbao’s society), and the capital with its crowning clock. When climbing the outer steps and entering the building, the first feature to catch the eye is the grand central stairway that leads to the most striking part of the city hall: the Arabic Room, a large space of unusual beauty where the most important public acts are held. City Hall has been extended with a modern annexed building. 29 ARCHI- TECTURE

METRO BILBAO The Bilbao subway is one of major works of Sir Norman Foster, undoubtedly one of the most innovative and momentous archi- tects on the contemporary design panorama. The underground network was inaugurated on 11 November 1995. It links Bilbao with its neighbouring districts on both sides of the river. Its eye-catching subway entrances are popularly known as “fosteritos”, in honour of their famous designer. 30

DOÑA CASILDA PARK INDAUTXU-ABANDOIBARRA. Metro: Indautxu/San Mamés. With almost 100 years of history (building began in 1907), the city’s largest park was designed in the Romantic style by architect and engineer Juan de Eguiraun. Since its opening, it has evol- ved and been renovated but has always preserved the charm granted by its majestic duck-filled pond, flanked by traditional wafer sellers, an indelible image etched in the memory of every native. In recent years, its infrastructures have been extended and it now boasts a classic style carousel, a cybernetic fountain, a bandstand (‘La Pérgola’) and the Fine Arts Museum café, with its terraced seating, alongside an ice-cream stand with pavement seating. The park’s 85,000 square metres are home to magnolia and plane trees, flowers such as nyssa sylvatica, large-flower magnolias, sophoras, etc. Sculptures: tribute to Tonetti the clown, sculpture by , effigy of Casilda de Iturrizar y Urquijo, fountain monument by Aureliano Valle. 31 ARCHI- TECTURE

ABANDOIBARRA Metro: Indautxu/San Mamés. Abandoibarra is Bilbao’s new leisure and services area. A decaying industrial district along the banks of the river Nervión that underwent a profound transformation to become one of the city’s bastions, a ga- thering place for locals and tourists alike. The Abandoibarra district is home to the Guggenheim Museum designed by Frank O. Gehry, the Palacio Euskalduna conference centre and concert hall, designed by Federico Soriano, the Zubiarte shopping centre, designed by Robert A.M. Stern, the Paseo Uribitarte esplanade, the pedestrian bridge and walkway designed by , the expansion of Doña Casilda Park, the Meliá Bilbao Hotel, designed by Ricardo Legorreta, the luxury homes designed by Luis Peña Ganchegui or the University Li- brary, by Rafael Moneo. In 2011 the tallest building in Bilbao was inau- gurated in Abandoibarra, the , by Cesar Pelli. 32

ZORROZAURRE Metro: Deusto/San Mamés. This old industrial district of Bilbao is destined to become the new centre of expansion for the city. 2012 is the planned kick-off date for the first development phase of this ambitious regeneration project, which has been commissioned to the prestigious British architect, of Iraqi descent, . Born in Bagdad in 1950, Hadid is considered the queen of the deconstructivist movement, a trend characterised by its global vision encompassing all fields of design, from the structure of the building to the furniture deco- rating its interior. Recently in the headlines there has been talk of the Zorrozaurre district potentially accommodating a major new museum associated to the Prado or the Pompidou. 33 ARCHI- TECTURE

TORRE DE IBERDROLA ABANDOIBARRA www.torreiberdrola.es Metro: Moyua. What is to become the tallest building in Bilbao, the Iberdrola Tower, is currently under construction in Abandoibarra and is to house a Business Centre with the conceptual design of archi- tect Cesar Pelli. Building began in March 2007 and is scheduled for completion in 2011. There will be 50,000 square metres of building space comprising 41 storeys and a total height of 165 metres, watched over by two further residential buildings of 20,000 square metres. Next to the tower, architect Alvaro Siza is building the Assembly Hall of the Basque Country University, a four-storey building covering 9,000 square metres, expected to open in 2010. 34

LA CONCORDIA TRAIN STATION Bailén, 2. Metro: Abando. ABANDO. The La Concordia train station, also known as Santander Station, is considered to be one of the most genuine pieces of Bilbao’s Belle Épo- que heritage. A modernist building erected in 1902, designed by S. Achucarro and V. Gorbeña, it was restored in 2007 and boasts a spec- tacular main façade. It is the main station for the narrow gauge railways of railway company FEVE, connecting Bilbao with the different areas of the Cantabrian region and the rest of the northern mainland. 35 ARCHI- TECTURE

EL TIGRE BUILDING Ribera de Botica Vieja, 23. Metro: Deusto. DEUSTO. Building erected in 1941, designed by architect Pedro Ispizua, at the height of Bilbao’s industrial heyday, to house the factory, offices and exhibition centre of the company “Correas El Tigre”. In 1942 sculptor Joaquín de Lucarini was commissioned to top off the building with a concrete sculpture of a tiger, which was completed the following year. The sculpture, which is nine metres in length, is situated on the rooftop and over the years it has become one of the emblematic symbols of the city of Bilbao. Today, having undergone a full renovation, the building houses luxury residences. 36

CASA MONTERO Residential building, on Alameda de Rekalde, 4. Metro: Moyua. ABANDO Casa Montero is one of the few remnants of modernist art still standing in Bilbao. It was built between 1901 and 1904 and was later declared a monument of historical and artistic heritage. It is popularly known as the “House of Gaudí” on account of its simila- rity with the works of the famous Catalan artist. Casa Montero is the work of architect Luis Aladren, who also designed the Biscay Regional Council Building, “La Diputación”. 37 ARCHI- TECTURE

PALACIO CHAVARRI Federico Moyua, 5. Metro: Abando. ABANDO. The Chávarri Building is located at the heart of Bilbao’s city en- largement, with the main façade on the corner of Plaza Moyúa stretching over to Gran Vía and Elcano street. An eclectic edifice inspired by neo-flamenco revivalism, it was built for the Chávarri family by architect Atanasio de Anduiza, according to a project designed by Belgian architect Paul Hankar. Some of its rooms were decorated by painter José Echenagusia Errazquin. 38

OSAKIDETZA BUILDING Licenciado Poza, 13. Metro: Moyua. INDAUTXU. Another example of avant-garde architecture is the singularly outstanding building that houses the Bas- que Government’s Health Board offices in Bilbao. Ac- cording to its creator, architect Juan Coll-Barreu, it is “a vitalist building that is continually transforming itself through reflections, the passing of light and the diffe- rent lustres of Bilbao. It is a healthy-looking, muscular building. It is a democratic, transparent, friendly and informative structure”. The astounding glazed façade leaves no-one indifferent. 39 ARCHI- TECTURE

PUENTE VIZCAYA - BRIDGE Connecting and . For details on visits, contact: [email protected] or call 944801012 www.puente-colgante.com Metro: : . : Portugalete. Popularly known as the Hanging Bridge of Portugalete (“El Puente Colgan- te”), the origins of the bridge date back to the end of the 19th century. It was designed for the purposes of linking up the two sides of the mouth of the river without obstructing the passing of boats. The bridge was designed by y Elissague, also renowned for his participation in the building of the Crystal Palace in Madrid’s Retiro Park. French engineer Ferdinand Jo- seph Arnodin was responsible for the construction of the structure and Bilbao textile impresario Santos López de Letona was the principal guardian and fi- nancier of the project. Puente Vizcaya was the first metal-structured built in the world. It is located at the mouth of the river Ibaizabal, where Bilbao’s navigable estuary flows into the sea. The bridge was inaugurated on 28 July 1893 and was designed to connect, with its huge iron bodywork, the towns of Portugalete and Getxo, one riverbank rocky and steep, the other low and sandy. With its construction, communications between these two summer seaside resorts were greatly facilitated, without disrupting sailings in and out of one of the most active shipbuilding river ports in Europe. In 2006 UNESCO pronounced Puente Vizcaya a monument of World Heritage. 40 ZUBI ZURI Uribitarte walkway Popularly known as the Calatrava Bridge, in honour of the architect who designed it, , Zubi Zuri links both banks of the river, the Campo de Volantín side with the Uribitarte walkway and the new urban district of Abandoibarra. Inaugurated on 30 May 1997, almost at the same time as the Guggenheim Museum, its spectacular -shaped design and glass floor has made it one of Bilbao’s most visited tourist attractions. 41 ARCHI-

ISOZAKI TECTURE Uribitarte walkway Isozaki Atea is the latest major project completed in Bilbao. A seven- building complex designed by Japanese architect Arata Isozkai, with the collaboration of Bilbao architect Iñaki Aurrekoetxea, it consists of a set of 23-storey twin towers, each 82 metres in height, and five annexed buildings. According to its creator, the structure reinterprets Rome’s famous Spanish Steps. In between the two glass-clad towers, is the Plaza Convivencia (cohabitation square) presided by the sculp- ture “Searching for Light IV” by Eduardo Chillida. 42

CASA DE JUNTAS DE GERNIKA Allende Salazar, s/n. GERNIKA-LUMO Tel.: 946251138 www.jjggbizkaia.net Schedules: From June to October: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. – Rest of the year: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.. Open every day. Located in Gernkika town centre, well signposted. The Gernkika “Casa de Juntas” is built on an elevation with far-reaching views of the Gernika-Mundaka river. The first Councils of the Basque Lords were held here from the 15th century until the “” charters were abolished in 1877. The Casa de Juntas was built between 1826 and 1833 under architect Antonio Echevarría in the neoclassical style. The collection of historical buildings comprises the Jury Box, the Tree of Gernika and the Casa de Juntas council building. Echevarría pro- posed to build these in a rectangular, symmetrical, rational shape with the church-parliament in the centre and pavilions destined to house archives and armouries in the wings (never completed). The church- parliament was designed to be elliptical in shape. The Casa de Juntas is a key example of neoclassicism in the Basque Country, successfully resolving a project entailing two conflicting functions: a church and a parliament building. 43 ARCHI- TECTURE

EUSKALDUNA JAUREGIA. See Stages section. MUSEO GUGGENHEIM BILBAO. See Museums section. 44 45 DESIGN

DESIGN

The Bilbao of today is one of Europe’s design capitals, a metropolis avidly venturing into new trends in contem- porary furniture. 46

TOKYO STORY Arbolantxa, 6. Tel.: 944790393 - 656732712. www.tokyostory.biz Metro: Abando. ABANDO. Furniture, interior design, furniture rentals, antiques... A quirky place. 47 DESIGN

GLOBAL-BILBAO Paseo de Uribitarte, 15. Tel.: 944244477. www.global-bilbao.com Metro: Abando/Moyúa. GUGGENHEIM. Contemporary furniture and equipment. Exclusive distributors of the top European trademarks. 48

BOFFI ESTUDIO Muelle la Merced, 4. Tel.: 944156756 Metro: Casco Viejo. . The latest in kitchens and ba- throoms. Vouching for design in a district that is in the throes of rege- neration. 49

URBANA 15 Elkano, 15. Tel.: 944795678 www.urbana15.com DESIGN Metro: Moyúa. ABANDO. Latest trends in furni- ture and accessories. 800 square meters at the heart of Bilbao’s golden mile.

KARTELL Alameda Mazarredo, 77. Tel.: 944232491 www.kartell.it Metro: Moyua. GUGGENHEIM. Sells the Italian brand Kartell. Everything to do with designer chairs.

IMATRA Viuda de Epalza, 13. Tel.: 944157690. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Particular de Costa, 12-14. [email protected]. Metro: Indautxu. ZABALBURU. www.imatrabilbao.com Meeting point between art, architecture, design and technology.

MOBILARTE Ibáñez de Bilbao, 8. Tel.: 944245044 www.mobil-arte.com Metro: Abando. ABANDO. Over 20 years brin- ging design to Bilbao.

ATICO 90 Juan de Ajuriaguerra, 10. Tel.: 944231910 www.atico90.es Metro: Moyua. ABANDO. Interior Design-De- cor-Furniture.

MOSEL Gran Vía de Don Diego López de Haro, 53. Tel.: 944417835 www.mosel.es Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. In Bilbao, Mosel is synonymous with design. 50 51 FASHION

FASHION

Bilbao, considered to be a city of British influence in its way of dress, has also undergone a transformation in its relationship with fashion, with an increasingly significant presence of new designers and brand names, a blend of styles that give Bilbao a touch of colour and modernity, a cosmopolitan image of a city that is constantly on the move. 52

PERSUADE Villarías, 8. Tel.: 944238864. Metro: Aban- do. ABANDO. Men’s and women’s fas- hion in an exclusive space. An internatio- nal-scale fashion landmark. Styles by the top designers: Issey Miyake, Balenciaga or Yohji Yamamoto. Also, a home decor shop. 53 FASHION

MARTITZ Telesforo Aranzadi, 1, Bilbao. Tel.: 944 702 914 www.martitz-shop.com Metro: Moyua. ABANDO. Men’s and women’s fashions. London in the heart of Bilbao. Informal yet elegant British fas- hion. 54

SKUNKFUNK Plaza Nueva, 2. Tel.: 944152 859. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Skunkfunk outlet. Bailén, 21. Tel.: 944150622. Me- tro: Abando. BILBAO LA VIEJA. www. skunfunk.com. Guys and girls fashions. One of the world’s top emerging young fashion brands is from Biscay. SKUNKFUNK designs are sold in over 1,000 shops across four continents. 55 FASHION

LOREAK MENDIAN Máximo Agirre, 23. Tel.: 944273447. Me- tro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. Plaza Nueva, 2. Tel.: 944273447. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. www.loreakmendian. com. Guys and girls fashions. A well- known brand of “street” fashion. Crea- ted 15 years ago in San Sebastian, Lo- reak Mendian have 12 shops distributed around the Basque Country, Spain, Fran- ce and Australia. 56

TRAKA BARRAKA Dos de Mayo, 3. Tel.: 944168358 - 639177485 Metro: Casco Viejo/Abando. BILBAO LA VIEJA www.trakabarraka.blogspot.com Online sales: trakabarraka@trakaba- rraka.com. Girls fashions. Fun and colo- urful signature designs. Clothes and com- plements with a primitive art touch. Also clothes from other brands: La Casita de Wendy, Brunet,... 57 FASHION

BELAZA GALLERY Plaza Arrikibar, 5. Tel.: 944106275 www. belazagallery.com Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. Guys and girls sportswear: Lacoste Stealth, Fred Perry, Ben Sher- man, Adidas Originals, Le Coq Sportif,... Exhibits. 58

CARDENAL Banco de España, 1. Tel.: 94 415 75 86. www.cardenalbilbao.com Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Men’s fashions. Fred Perry, Ben Sherman, Munich, Anthony Morato,...Thousands of different looks for the elegant man. 59 FASHION

SERIE B Lotería, 2. Tel.: 944 155 404 Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Ro- dríguez Arias, 22 (Entrance on Máximo Aguirre). Tel.: 94 640 00 81. Metro: Indau- txu. www.serieb.biz INDAUTXU. Young designers, clothes, shoes and ac- cessories. For him and her. “Because if nobody’s looking at us, we’re invisible”. 60 61 DATION ACCOMMO-

ACCOMMODATION

Hotels from all categories and for all budgets. Excellent value for money. In Bilbao one can stay at a five-star hotel for just 100 . 62

HOTEL CARLTON***** Plaza de Don Federico Moyúa, 2. Tfno.: 944162200. www.hotelcarlton.es. Metro: Moyúa. INDAUTXU. Classical hotel - 5 stars The Carlton Hotel is one of Bilbao’s emblematic buildings. Designed by architect Manuel M. de Smi- th, it is located in the central Plaza de Don Federico Moyúa and opened its doors in 1926. It has been declared a Monument of Architectural, Artistic, His- torical and Cultural Heritage. Ava Gardner, Federi- co García Lorca, Albert Einstein and Alphonso XIII have slept in its rooms. It has a 250-square-metre Imperial Suite and its facilities include the restau- rant Artagan, yet another symbol of high-end Bas- que cuisine. The Carlton housed the headquarters of the during the .

SILKEN GRAN HOTEL DOMINE***** Alameda Mazarredo,. Tlfno.: 944253300 Hotel moderno. www.hoteles-silken.com Modern hotel – 5 stars The Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao, facing the Guggen- heim Museum, was inaugurated in July 2002, with actress Sofía Loren and mayor of Bilbao Iñaki Azku- na cutting the inaugural ribbon. Designed by Javier Mariscal, it houses a selection of furniture that re- presents the most emblematic facets of 20th cen- tury design. The Hotel Domine has been conceived not just as a place to stay, but also as a colourful micro-cosmos for anyone wishing to drop in for a coffee, a drink in the avant-garde Splash & Crash bar, or for a meal at the hotel restaurant, Beltz the Black. 63 DATION ACCOMMO- 64

HOTEL MIRO**** Alameda Mazarredo, 77. Tfno.: 946611880 www.mirohotelbilbao.com Boutique Hotel - 4 stars The Miró Hotel Bilbao is the city’s first boutique ho- tel. Designed by fashion designer Antonio Miró, it is located between the Guggenheim and the Fine Arts Museum. It is an urban, functional, avant-garde hotel. Vogue magazine defined it as “a gathering place for lovers of art, music and good company”. It houses its own collection of contemporary art.

HOTEL HESPERIA BILBAO**** Paseo Campo de Volantín, 28. Tfno.: 944051100. www.hesperia-bilbao.es. Metro: Abando. GUGGENHEIM.Modern hotel - 4 stars Hotel Hesperia Bilbao is on the banks of the River, in a strategic and very well connected location, bet- ween the Guggenheim Museum and the Old Quar- ter. Opened in 2005, it stands out due to its colourful façade and closeness to the Zubi Zuri Walkway, by architect Santiago Calatrava and Isozaki Atea, two symbols of the new Bilbao. 65 DATION ACCOMMO- 66

HOTEL PETIT PALACE ARANA*** Bidebarrieta, 2. Tfno.: 944156411. www.petitpala- cearana.com. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Modern hotel - 3 stars The Petit Palace Arana hotel, which recently un- derwent a complete renovation, is Bilbao’s oldest hotel and is located at the entrance to the Old Quar- ter, beside the Arriaga Theatre. The hotel’s cha- racteristic building, typical of Basque architectural style, houses 64 rooms with balconies contrasting with the stone walls and wooden beams of its cosy, modernist interior. Since 1850 many celebrities have graced its rooms, from both social and artistic circles. An anecdote often told is that the Petit Pala- ce Arana was the setting for the romance between King Baudouin of Belgium and Queen Fabiola befo- re they were wed.

BILBOROOMS Víctor, 3. Tfno.: 944793591. www.bilborooms.com Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Charming guesthouse Modern and welcoming guesthouse located in the heart of Bilbao’s Old Quarter, in an area of great historical and cultural interest, and a lively shopping scene. It is surrounded by a multitude of tapas bars and well-known 67 DATION ACCOMMO- 68

HOTEL EMBARCADERO**** Avenida de Zugazarte, 51 – GETXO Tfno.: 944803100 www.hotelembarcadero.com Metro: Areeta. Boutique Hotel - 4 stars A stately home built in neo-Basque style in the year 1900. Rooms with a sea view and a garden where you can enjoy an aperitif in one of the most majestic enclaves in Biscay. Located in Getxo, with excellent transport connections to Bilbao, it has 27 rooms de- corated with the glamour of the 20s and equipped with the technology of the 21st century. Building re- novated in 2005.

HOTEL ATALAYA Itxaropen, 1 - MUNDAKA Telf.: 946177000 www.hotel-atalaya-mundaka.com Small charming hotel. Cosy family hotel located in Mundaka, within the Ur- daibai Nature Reserve, a Mecca for surfers from all over the world. A house with a gallery and garden built in the early 20th century by architect Marcelino Arrupe, father of the superior general of the Jesuits, Pedro Arrupe. Deemed by the “Hotels with Charm” guidebook published by El País newspaper as “the best on Biscayan coast”. 69 DATION ACCOMMO- 70

HOTEL MELIA BILBAO***** Leizaola, 29. Tel.: 944280000 Modern hotel. 5 stars. www.melia-hotels.com Metro: San Mamés. GUGGENHEIM Located in the new Abandoibarra district, beside the Euskalduna Concert Hall and Conference Centre and just a short walk from the Guggenheim Mu- seum, the Hotel Melia Bilbao, masterpiece of Mexi- can architect Ricardo Legorreta, is one of the sym- bolic buildings of contemporary Bilbao. On the sixth floor, evoking the idea of a huge bathtub, an original transparent swimming pool emerges, overhanging the façade. Worth a visit just to see its spectacular atrium. Its luxurious facilities include restaurant Ai- zian, among the Basque Country’s finest.

APARTMENT BDA Calle . [email protected] www.bilbaodesignapartment.com Recently renovated apartment, with shared kitchen and living room. Fully equipped with all functional, modern amenities. A unique space, more intima- te than a hotel, stylishly decorated and ideal for spending a week or a few days in Bilbao. Designer apartments right next to the most lively and creative parts of the city. 71 DATION ACCOMMO- 72

HOTEL LÓPEZ DE HARO***** Orueta Apezpikuaren Kalea, 2-4. Telf.: 944235500 www.hotellopezdeharo.com

HOTEL HUSA SPA JARDINES DE ALBIA**** San Vicente, 6. Telf.: 944354140 hotelhusaspajardinesdealbia.com

HOTEL BARCELO NERVIÓN 3/4/5* Paseo Campo de Volantín, 11. Telf.: 944454700 www.barcelonervion.com

HOTEL BARCELO AVENIDA**** Avenida Zumalacárregui, 40 Telf.: 944124300 www.barcelo.com

HOTEL BILBAO JARDINES** Jardines, 9. Telf.: 944794210 www.hotelbilbaojardines.com

PENSIÓN ITURRIENEA OSTATUA Santa Maria, 14 Telf.: 944161500 www.iturrieneaostatua.com 73

HOTEL EL PUERTO Portu, 1 – MUNDAKA (Bizkaia) Telf.: 946876725 www.hotelelpuerto.com

HOTEL HIGH TECH TAMARISES***

Calle de Bilbao, s/n DATION

GETXO (Bizkaia) ACCOMMO- www.httamariseshotel.com

HOTEL HUSA BAHIA DE PLENCIA*** Calle de Erribera, 29, (Bizkaia). Telf.: 946775734

HOTEL MENDI GOIKOA Barrio San Juan AXPE-ATXONDO (Bizkaia) Telf.: 946820833 www.mendigoikoa.com

GRAN HOTEL DURANGO**** Carretera de Gasteiz, 2 DURANGO (Bizkaia) Telf.: 94 621 75 80 www.granhoteldurango.com 74

Restaurant prices in this guidebook are approximate. Although all the restaurants featured are good quality eateries, we use a star system to classify the proposals we consider to be of special gastronomic interest. € - 20 euros €€ Between 20 and 40 euros €€€ Between 40 and 60 euros €€€€ + 60 euros ⁎ ⁎ ⁎ Not to be missed ⁎ ⁎ Excellent ⁎ High standard 75 NOMY GASTRO-

HAUTE CUISINE

In Bilbao, as in the rest of European capitals, haute cui- sine is characterised by the use of top quality products, exquisite presentation and creative cookery. All of this is accompanied with impeccable service and luxurious surroundings. One point to highlight is the excellent ea- teries at a number of the city’s hotels, such as the Hotel Carlton, Gran Hotel Domine and Hotel Ercilla. 76

ZORTZIKO Alameda Mazarredo, 17. Tel.: 944239743 www.zortziko.es Closed Sundays and Mondays. Metro: Abando. ABANDO. €€€€ ⁎ ⁎ ⁎ Prestigious chef Daniel Garcia combines traditional Basque gastronomy with avant-garde cuisine. Excellent wine list. We recommend dining in the wine cellar, reservation necessary. One Michelin star. 77 NOMY GASTRO-

ETXANOBE Euskalduna Jauregia - Avenida Abandoibarra, 4. Tel.: 944421071 www.etxanobe.com. Closed Sundays. Metro: San Mamés. GUGGENHEIM. €€€€ ⁎ ⁎ ⁎ Fernando Canales, chef and proprietor, blends taste, produce, tradition and creativity into one sole concept. Located on the third floor of the Pa- lacio Euskalduna, the Etxanobe restaurant boasts one Michelin star. 78 GURIA Gran Vía de Diego López de Haro, 66. Tel.: 944415780 www.restauranteguria.com Closed Sunday evenings. Metro: Indautxu/San Mamés. ABANDO. €€€€ ⁎ For over fifty years, Guria has been synonymous with haute cuisine in Bilbao. Cod is the star dish at this highly renowned restaurant. Stately English-style premises lo- cated at the heart of Bilbao’s main street, Gran Vía.

79 AIZIAN Hotel Meliá Bilbao - Lehendakari Leizaola, 29. Tel.: 944280039. www.restaurante-aizian.com Closed on Sundays. Metro: San Mamés. GUGGENHEIM €€€€ ⁎ ⁎ The Asua family is an institution in the world of thanks to its long-standing experience in their Andra and Aretxondo restaurants in . Their latest culinary venture is Aizian, the restaurant in the Hotel Meliá Bilbao, a modern eatery where young chef José Miguel Olazabalaga fuses traditional Basque cuisine with his own highly vanguard creativity. One of Biscay’s greatest restaurants. NOMY GASTRO- 80

ZALLO BARRI Juan Calzada, 79 - GERNIKA (Biscay). Tel.: +34 94251800. www.zallobarri.com. €€€ At this stylish minimalist restaurant, chef Iñigo Ordorica offers a suc- cessful fusion between signature cuisine and classic Basque recipes, a mastery he acquired throughout his broad experience at several presti- gious restaurants. 81

GORROTXA Alameda de Urquijo, 30. Tel.: 944434937. NOMY www.gorrotxa.es GASTRO- Closed Sundays. Metro: Moyúa. INDAUTXU. €€€€ ⁎

JOLASTOKI Avenida de los Chopos, 21 - GETXO (Biscay). Tel.: 944912031 www.restaurantejolastoki.com Closed Sunday evenings, Mondays and Tuesday evenings. Metro: . €€€€ ⁎ 82 83 NOMY GASTRO-

SIGNATURE CUISINE

The future of Basque cuisine can be found slaving over the stoves of Biscay’s best restaurants. Names like Mar- tínez Alija, Álvaro Garrido or Eneko Atxa are destined to take over from the gurus of Basque nouveau cuisine, le- gendary names such as Arzak, Subijana or Berasategi. 84

GUGGENHEIM Guggenheim Bilbao Museum - Avenida Abandoibarra, 2. Tel.: 944239333 www.restauranteguggenheim.com Closed Sunday evenings, Mondays all day and Tuesday evenings. Metro: Moyua. GUGGENHEIM €€€€ ⁎ ⁎ ⁎ The Guggenheim Bilbao is home to one of the best and most innovative gourmet teams, directed by Josean Martínez Alija, who all the critics agree is set to become one of the most reputed chefs on the inter- national culinary scene. The combination of Martínez Alija’s culinary talents and the breathtaking Frank Gehry design, make the Guggenheim restaurant something unique the world over. 85

MINA Muelle Marzana, s/n. Tel.: 944795938. www.restaurantemina.es Closed on Sundays and Monday and Tuesday evenings. Metro: Casco Viejo. BILBAO LA VIEJA €€€ ⁎ ⁎ If you to Mina, get ready to be surpri- sed. Get ready for a unique menu and an endless array of flavours. Radical yet co- herent. Young head chef Álvaro Garrido has made his restaurant a gastronomic landmark of the highest standard. NOMY GASTRO- 86

AZURMENDI Barrio Legina, s/n - (Biscay). Tel.: 944558866 www.azurmendi.biz Closed evenings Monday through Thursday €€€ ⁎ ⁎ ⁎ From the kitchens of the Azurmendi, Eneko Atxa has made a leading name for himself on the gastronomy scene. After obtaining the Michelin star for Azurmendi, he has embarked on new adventures in the kitchens of two other great restau- rants: Kalaka in Bilbao (Lersundi, 3. Tel.: 944235695), and Villa Magna By Eneko Atxa, in Madrid. 87 NOMY GASTRO-

GAMINIZ Ibaizabal, 212 - Technology Park (Biscay) Tel.: 944317025. www.gaminiz.com Closed all day Sunday and evenings Monday through Thursday. €€€ ⁎ ⁎ 88 89

ARBOLAGAÑA NOMY Museo de Bellas Artes - Plaza del Museo, GASTRO- s/n. Tel.: 944424657. Closed on Mondays and Sunday evenings. Metro: Indautxu. GUGGENHEIM €€€ ⁎

YANDIOLA Alhóndiga Bilbao - Alameda Rekalde, 27. Tel.: 944133636. www.yandiola.com. Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU €€€ ⁎ 90 91 NOMY GASTRO-

MARKET CUISINE

Restaurants offering fresh seasonal products, gua- ranteed quality traditional cuisine, without turning their backs on innovation. 92

GURE KIDE Particular de Estraunza 4-6. Tel.: 944421129-944415004 www.gurekide.net Closed on Sundays. Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. €€€€ ⁎ A classic of Bilbao gastronomy, formerly by the name of Goizeko Kabi, Gure Kide strikes an ideal balance bet- ween traditional Basque dishes and more progressive proposals. Its creations, all based on age-old Biscayan recipes, always have a touch of modernity. Excellent service. 93

LOROÑO Alameda Recalde, 53. Tel.: 944211183. Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. €€ Traditional cuisine in a smart and modern eatery, owned by journalist Josu Loroño. Excellent soups and stews. One of the best traditional restaurants in Bilbao.

NOMY GASTRO- 94

ETXEBARRI Plaza San Juan, 1 - AXPE-ATXONDO (Biscay). Tel.: 946583042 www.asadoretxebarri.com Closed on Mondays. One Michelin Star for the best basque brasse- rie. Evening meals on Saturdays only. €€€€ ⁎ ⁎ ⁎

LAR Amistad 3. Tel.: 944244802 www.restaurantelar.com Closed on Sundays. Metro: Abando. ABANDO. €€€

EGILUZ Perro, 4. Tel.: 944150242. Closed on Wednes- days. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. €€

VIEJO ZORTZI Licenciado Poza, 54. Tel.: 944419249 www.viejozortzi.com Closed on Sundays. Metro: San Mamés. INDAUTXU. €€€ ⁎ 95

PORRUE Alameda Rekalde, 4. Tel.: 944231313 Metro: Moyua. GUGGENHEIM. €€€

BOROA Barrio Boroa - Caserío Garai, 11 AMOREBIETA-ETXANO (Biscay) Tel.: 946734747. www.boroa.com NOMY

Closed on Sunday nights. €€€ ⁎ ⁎ GASTRO-

EL PUERTO-ZABALA Aretxondo, 20. Puerto Viejo GETXO (Biscay). Tel.: 944912166 www.elpuerto-zabala.com Metro: Algorta. €€€

ENEPERI Barrio de San Pelaio, 80 (Biscay). Tel.: 946194065 www.eneperi.com €€€ 96 97 NOMY GASTRO-

EATERIES WITH CHARM

Singular eateries, from the traditional Basque country house to the smallest six-table café, from the avant-garde New York style restaurant to the French style bistro. And without neglecting the most important thing, the food. 98

PERRO CHICO Arechaga, 2. Tel.: Tel.: 94 415 05 19. Closed on Sundays and Monday lunchtime. Metro: Casco Viejo. BILBAO LA VIEJA. €€€ ⁎ One of the most charming restaurants in Bilbao. Celebrities from the world of cinema and culture have graced its tables with their presence, from Brad Pitt to Oliver Stone or Frank O. Ghery. Located in an old art gallery, Perro Chico serves truly excellent cuisine. Highly recommenda- ble for an evening meal. 99 NOMY GASTRO-

ATEA Paseo de Uribitarte, 4. Tel.: 944005869. www.atearestaurante.com. Closed on Sundays. Metro: Abando. GUGGENHEIM. €€ ⁎ Bilbao’s most fashionable restaurant. A new gastronomic concept that indulges every detail, offering creative dishes and an extended wine list at affordable prices. Excellent service. Takeaway option also available. 100

ANDRA MARI Barrio de Elexalde, 22 - GALDAKAO (Bizkaia). Tel.: 944560005 www.andra-mari.com Closed on Mondays. €€€€ ⁎ ⁎ Since 1964 Andra Mari restaurant has been serving cuisine inspired by the best traditional Biscayan recipes, it is a classic of Basque gastronomy. Located in the town of Galdakao, in a traditional Basque country house, it offers an exquisite menu cleverly combining tradi- tion with innovation, making it a place of pilgrimage for avid foodies. One Michelin star. 101 NOMY GASTRO-

ORIOL Hotel NH Palacio Oriol - Avenida Cristóbal Murrieta, 27. (Biscay). Tel.: 34.94.4934100. www.nh-hoteles.es/nh/es/hoteles/espana/santurce-bilbao/nh-pala- cio-de-oriol.html Closed on Mondays and Sunday evenings. Metro: Santurtzi. €€ Under the guidance of Víctor Gómez, head chef at La Pérgola in the NH Villa de Bilbao Hotel, chef Iñaki Ruiz and his young team cook up innovative market cuisine based on the traditional flavours of the best Basque gastronomy. 102 103

KIKARA Iparraguirre, 23. Tel.: 944236840 www.kikara.com. Closed on Sundays. A space designed for a modern diner whose interests go beyond the purely culinary. Metro: Moyua. GUGGENHEIM. €€€ NOMY GASTRO- CASA RUFO Hurtado de Amezaga, 5. Tel.: 944432172. Closed on Sundays. Metro: Abando. ZABALBURU – Located inside a grocery shop. €€€ ⁎

LA ALDEA Doctores Carmelo Gil, 12. Tel.: 944211028. Reservation necessary. Metro: Indautxu. ZABALBURU. €€

BORNE General Castillo, 3. Tel.: 679623741. Metro: Casco Viejo/Abando. BILBAO LA VIEJA.€ Located beside Dos de Mayo street, this is a small and charming venue frequented by a young crowd in search of elaborate vegetarian dishes. Friendly service. Per- fect for a romantic dinner. 104 105 NOMY GASTRO-

TASTES OF THE WORLD

Biscay is not just about Basque cuisine. You can also find several prime examples of the best international cuisine, proof of the multicultural nature of Bilbao, a city wide open to the world. 106

À TABLE Dos de Mayo, 18. Tel.: 944 154 766 www.restauranteatable.com Booking required. Metro: Casco Viejo. BILBAO LA VIEJA. €€ French cuisine at a restaurant located right at the heart of Bilbao’s Soho, on Dos de Mayo street. Goose liver mousse with Armagnac, duck magret stuffed with foie, confit of duck leg and gratin dauphinois,... are just some of the dishes ser- ved, offering a different interpretation of traditional French cuisine. Every first and last Thursday of the month features “dinner in the dark”, booking required.

BASCOOK Barroeta Aldamar, 8 www.elizegiaitor.wordpress.com Metro: Abando. ABANDO. €€ A new culinary concept in Bilbao city centre, in what used to be an old coal and salt warehouse. Well-renowned 107 NOMY

à table GASTRO-

bascook

parrillla argentina garufa 108

MILAGROS Carretera de a Sopelana, 1 - BARRIKA (Bizkaia). Tel.: 946770235. €€ Privileged location, very close to the sea. Excellent Mexican and Asian cuisine in a singular location. Booking required at weekends. Young crowd. Also bar/nightclub. Terrace service in summer. 109

EIN PROST Plaza del Ensanche 7. Tel.: 944241311 Open every day. Metro: Moyua. www.thate.com. ABANDO. German cuisine. Also sausages and mixed cold meats. (La Moderna. Colón de Larreategi, 20). €€

INDIAN-GANDHI Amistad, 6. Tel.: 944233934. Metro: Abando. ABANDO. Indian cuisine. €

MAO NOMY GASTRO- Ibáñez de Bilbao, 11. Tel.: 944236818. www.restaurantemao.com Metro: Abando. ABANDO. Modern Asian cuisine. Open every day. €€

DE BOCA MADRE Manuel Allende, 5. Tel.: 9441035 52. ww.debocamadre.com Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. Mexican cuisine. Closed on Mondays and Sunday evenings. €€

PASSERELLA Alameda Urquijo, 30. Telf.: 944440346. www.restaurantepasserella.com. INDAUTXU. Primer restaurante italiano de Bilbao. No cierra. €€

PARRILLA ARGENTINA GARUFA Alameda Urquijo, 30. Tel.: 944440346 www.restaurantepasserella.com Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. Bilbao’s top Italian restaurant. Open every day. €€

AJI COLORADO Barrenkale, 5. Tel.: 944152209 Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Peruvian cuisine. € 110 111 NOMY GASTRO-

“MENU DEL DÍA” SET LUNCH MENU

For a more modest dining option, some restaurants offer highly recommendable set lunch menus on weekdays. Diners can select two courses plus dessert from a set menu for just a little over 10 euros. 112

LASA Diputación, 3. Tel.: 944240103 www.restaurantelasa.net Closed on Sundays. Metro: Moyúa. ABANDO. €€ Located in Bilbao city centre, Lasa offers one of the best set lunch menus. For an economical price, from Monday to Saturday at lunchtime, diners can choose from a range of homemade meals and des- sert. A-la-carte option also available. 113

KASKO Santa María, 16 . Tel.: 944160311 www.restaurantekasko.com Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. €€ In the Old Quarter, el Kasko stands out from among the other restaurants in the area due to its more creative dishes. Set menu price higher on wee- kends. Also open for evening meals. NOMY GASTRO- 114

SUA Marqués del Puerto, 4. Tel.: 944232292 www.sua.es. Closed Monday evenings. Metro: Moyúa. ABANDO. €€ An exquisite venue for one of Bilbao’s most inno- vative kitchens. The set menu, available Monday to Friday, allows diners to choose between a-la- carte dishes for 16 euros, excluding beverage. At weekends, a-la-carte only. City centre. 115

GARIBOLO Fernández del Campo, 7. Tel.: 944 22 3255. Metro: Abando. ZABALBURU. A charming restaurant offering excellent vegetarian food. €€

OLD SHANGHAI Ledesma, 10. Tel.: 946005991-946005992. NOMY

Open every day. Metro: Abando. ABANDO. GASTRO- Excellent Asian cuisine. €€

AMBIGÚ San Vicente, 5. Tel.: 944242343. Closed on Sundays, evenings Monday through Thursday and Saturday lunchtime. www.ambigubilbao.com Metro: Abando. ABANDO Creative cuisine. €€

ROTTERDAM Perro, 6. Tel.: 944162165. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Traditional Basque cuisine. €€

SAIBIGAIN Barrenkale Barrena, 16. Tel.: 944150123 Closed on Sundays. www.saibigain.com. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Traditional home-style cooking. €€ 116 117 NOMY GASTRO-

BAR FOOD

In Bilbao, like in the rest of Biscay, it’s possible to eat superbly well without ever having to sit down at a table. There is a strong tradition of going out for tapas, locally known as “pintxos”, mini portions capable of tantalising even the most demanding of palettes. Traditional “pin- txos” are mixed with other more innovative creations, authentic “miniature haute cuisine”. And excellent wines to go along with them. 118

BITOQUE Rodriguez Arias, 32. Tel.:944418830 www.bitoque.es Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. Alameda Mazarredo, 6 Tel.: 944236545. Metro: Abando. ABANDO. Winner of the 2009 Best Bar Award. Also a restaurant serving creative cuisine. 119 NOMY GASTRO-

XUKELA Calle del Perro, 2. Tel.: 944159772 www.xukela.com Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Sausages and mixed cold meats, pâtés, smoked meats, salads and cheese in an attractive, busy venue. Excellent vermouth. 120

LA VIÑA DEL ENSANCHE Diputación. 10. Tel.: 944155615 www.lavinadelensanche.com Metro: Abando. ABANDO. One of Bilbao’s emblematic bars. Excellent mixed cold meats. Also delicatessen. 121 GURE TOKI VICTOR MONTES Plaza Nueva 12. Tel.: 944158037 Plaza Nueva, 8. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO Tel.: 944157067 VIEJO. Amazing “pintxo” tapas www.victormontesbilbao.com bar. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. IZARO Also a restaurant and delica- Alameda Urquijo, 66. tessen (La Alacena de Víctor Tel.: 944411048 www.barizaro. Montes). com Metro: Indautxu. Winners of the EL GLOBO 2009 state-wide Spanish ome- Diputación, 8. Tel.: 944154221 lette competition. www.barelglobo.com

Metro: Moyua. ABANDO. NOMY GASTRO- GATZ Elaborate “Pintxos” (tapas). Santa Maria, 10. Tel.: 944154861. Metro: Casco Viejo. ESTORIL CASCO VIEJO. Famous for its Plaza Campuzano, 3. black pudding omelette and its Tel.: 944411033. Metro: Indau- cod “pintxos”. txu. INDAUTXU. El mejor ver- mouth de Bilbao. Exquisite “pin- IRRINTZI txos” (tapas). Santa María, 8. Tel.: 944167616 www.irrintzi.es BERTON Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO Jardines, 11. Tel.: 944167035 VIEJO. Pintxos & Friends. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Smoke-free zone. Much EME frequented. Restaurant. General Concha, 5. Tel.: 944434298. www.baremebil- TXIRIBOGA bao.com Santa María, 13. Tel.: 944 157 Metro: Moyua. INDAUTXU. Le- 874 gendary “triángulos” (half sand- Metro: Casco Viejo. Famous for wiches), one of Bilbao’s culinary its croquettes, calamari and club delights. sandwiches.

EL MUSEO DEL VINO Ledesma, 10. Tel.: 944247216. Metro: Abando. ABANDO. A special venue in central Bil- bao. The best wine list in the city. Sausages and mixed cold meats, cod and veal cutlets. And to drink?... just wine! 122 123 MUSEUMS

MUSEUMS

The Guggenheim Museum and the excellent permanent collection at the city’s Museum of Fine Arts have placed Bilbao firmly on the world art map. 124

MUSEO GUGGENHEIM BILBAO Avenida Abandoibarra, 2. Tel.: 9443590 00 www.guggenheim-bilbao.es Closed on Mondays. Metro: Moyúa. GUGGENHEIM The , designed by US ar- chitect Frank O. Gehry is a magnificent example of the most avant-garde architecture of the late 20th century. Opened on 19 October 1997, the building has become a symbol of the new Bilbao and the driving force behind a city in constant transformation. Art and architecture come together to offer the best museum experience. Outstanding sculptures by . World-re- nowned restaurant. Gift shop and café

MUSEO DE BELLAS ARTES (FINE ARTS MUSEUM). Plaza del Museo, 2. Tel.:944396060 www.museobilbao.com Closed on Mondays. Metro: Indautxu. GUGGENHEIM Museum founded in 1908, designed by F. Urrutia and E. Segurola. The collection comprises over eight thousand pieces, including pain- tings, sculptures, works on paper and applied arts, an outstanding heritage that comprises a chronology from the 12th century to the present day. The collec- tion conserves relevant objects of ancient, modern and contemporary art, with a special interest for Spanish and Flamenco painting, alongside a healthy selection of Basque artists. Classical film series are screened at the Film Archive. Excellent restaurant (Arbolantxa). Gift shop and café. 125 MUSEOS MUSEUMS 126

EUSKAL MUSEOA-MUSEO VASCO Plaza de , 4. Tel.: 944155423. www.euskal-museo.org. Closed on Mondays and pu- blic holidays. Metro: Casco Viejo CASCO VIEJO Nestled in a Baroque style building, the Basque Mu- seum shows the historical and cultural evolution of the Basque people from their prehistoric origins. This ini- tiative of the Biscay Regional Council and the Bilbao City Council has been around since 1921. It is currently undergoing renovations.

BISCAY MUSEUM Calzadas de Mallona, s/n. arkeologimuseoa@bizkaia. net. www.bizkaia.net. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. A five-storey building covering 3,000 square metres, located facing the Basque Museum.

MARITIME MUSEUM Muelle de Ramón de la Sota, 1. Tel.: 902131000. www. muesomaritimobilbao.com. Closed on Mondays, Tues- days and Wednesdays. Metro: San Mamés. GUGG- ENHEIM. Museum designed to display the maritime heritage connected with the River of Bilbao and its surroundings.

ATHLETIC CLUB MUSEUM San Mamés Football Stadium. Felipe Serrate, s/n. (Do- ors 26-27 to the Main Stands). Tel.: 944411445. www. athletic-club.net. Metro: San Mamés. INDAUTXU. Tro- phy Room and Exhibition Hall of the Athletic Football Club of Bilbao, the city’s star football team. Its main symbol of identity is that the team is formed exclusively with Basque players. Despite this, Athletic is, alongsi- de Real Madrid and , the only club that has always stayed in the premier league. Considered by the French sports newspaper L´Equipe to be: “a unique case in the history of football”. 127

DIOCESAN MUSEUM OF SACRED ART Plaza de la Encarnación, 9B Telf.: 944 320125 www.eleizmuseoa.com Closed on Mondays. CASCO VIEJO

GERNIKA PEACE MUSEUM Foru Plaza,1 – Gernika-Lumo (Bizkaia) Telf.: 946270213 www.museodelapaz.org The Gernika Peace Museum is a themed museum de- dicated to the culture of peace. Inspired by the tragic bombing of Gernika on 26 April 1937. MUSEUMS EUSKAL HERRIA MUSEUM Palacio Alegria. Allendesalazar, 5 Gernika-Lumo (Bizkaia) Telf.: 946255451 www.bizkaia.net/euskalherriamuseoa/ The purpose of the Euskal Herria Museum is to help capture the historical, political and cultural significance its surroundings and also to portray the characteristics of the Basque people.

FISHERIES MUSEUM Torre Ercilla – (Bizkaia) Telf.: 946881171 Closed on Mondays. Museum exclusively dedicated to showing visitors the sphere of activity, livelihood and work of the “arrantzaleak” or Basque fishermen. 128 129 GALLERIES

GALLERIES

Though numerous art galleries can be found dotted around every corner of the city, it is on Juan Ajuriaguerra street, beside the Guggenheim Museum, where Bilbao’s most important art venues can be found. 130

BILBAO ARTE Urazurrutia, 32. Tel.: 944155097 www.bilbaoarte.org Closed Mondays, Saturday afternoons and pu- blic holidays. Metro: Casco Viejo. BILBAO LA VIEJA In addition to its Exhibition Room, Bilbao Arte is a centre of artistic production, run by the Bilbao City Council, with the sponsorship of the Biscay Regional Council. It provides young creators with the resources and infrastructures necessary to develop their own artistic proposals: rental spaces, printing and serigraphy workshops, digi- tal imaging, sculpture, photography, film studio, documentation centre and projection rooms. 131

SALA REKALDE Alameda Rekalde, 30. Tel.: 944068755 www.bizkaia.net/salarekalde Metro: Moyúa. GUGGENHEIM The Rekalde Room is a space for exploring the knowledge, reception and dissemination of the different contemporary arts. Funded and run by the Biscay Regional Council. GALLERIES 132

VANGUARDIA Alameda Mazarredo, 19. Tel.: 944237691-646 464 995 www.galeriavanguardia.com Closed Saturdays and public holidays. Metro: Moyúa. GUGGENHEIM Contemporary art since 1984. Since it opened, it has focused its attention on the dissemination and commercialisation of the latest contempo- rary art and trends.

ESPACIO MARZANA Muelle Marzana, 5. Tel.: 944167580- 653724940 www.espaciomarzana.net Closed Saturdays and public holidays. Metro: Casco Viejo. BILBAO LA VIEJA. Espacio Marza- na focuses its programming on promoting new and emerging artistic proposals, without overloo- king consolidated artists.

EPELDE Y MARDARAS Jardines, 10 - 3º izquierda. Tel.: 656701729-944153998 www.epelde-mardaras.com Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Gallery lo- cated in stately rooms in the Biblao old quarter. First Basque art gallery to open an online art store. 133

WINDSOR KULTURGINTZA Juan de Ajuriaguerra, 14. Tel.: 944238999 www.windsorkulturgintza.com Metro: Moyúa. ABANDO. Exhibitions of contem- porary Basque art.

SALAS DE EXPOSICIONES BBK Calle Elkano, 20. Tel.: 944015628 Metro: Moyúa. ABANDO. Gran Vía, 32. Tel.: 944017494. www.bbk.es Metro: Moyúa. ABANDO GALLERIES AMASTE Juan de Ajuriaguerra, 18. Tel.: 944244902 www.amaste.com Closed Saturdays and public holidays. Metro: Moyúa. ABANDO. Contemporary art.

PHOTO GALLERY 20 Juan de Ajuriaguerra, 20. Tel.: 944236072. Closed Sundays. Saturdays, booking required. www.photogallery20.es Closed Saturdays and public holidays. Metro: Moyúa. ABANDO. Art gallery specialised in ex- hibiting photography collections. 134 135 STAGES

STAGES

Bilbao is a highly attractive destination for all performing arts lovers. Some of the top performers from the interna- tional scene have graced its stages, from leading opera singers to big names in music and theatre. 136

ARRIAGA THEATRE Plaza del Arriaga, s/n. Telf.: 944 79 20 36 - 944 16 35 33 www.teatroarriaga.com CASCO VIEJO On 31 May 1890, at 8 p.m. the curtain came up on the inaugural performance at the Arriaga Theatre. Since then, it has hosted performances by the most important artists and companies on the international stage. An impressive building, designed by Joaquín de Rucoba, it is the pride and joy of Bilbao. Latest renovations: 1986. 137 STAGES

ARTERIA TEATRO CAMPOS ELÍSEO Bertendona, 5 [email protected] www.arteria.com Metro: Abando. ABANDO. Built between 1901 and 1902, designed by ar- chitects A. Acebal and J.B. Darroguy, the Cam- pos Theatre is one of the rare examples of mo- dernist architecture in the Basque Country and it is classified as a Monument of Cultural Herita- ge. Impressive façade. Reopened in 2010 after a complete overhaul, it offers a varied range of entertainment and also houses a café and res- taurant. 138

EUSKALDUNA JAUREGIA Avenida Abandoibarra, 4. Tel.: 944035000 www.euskalduna.net Metro: San Mamés. GUGGENHEIM Inaugurated on 19 February 1999, designed by architects F. Soriano and D. Palacios, the Euskalduna Concert Hall and Conference Cen- tre is a singular building, one of the flagships of the new 21st cen- tury Bilbao. Its main hall hosts a regular international opera season, as well as dance, music and theatre stage performances. Top class celebrities from the world of musical theatre, singer-songwriters like Sting, Lou Reed, Norah Jones or Rufus Wainwright. The Euskalduna has received the Apex Award for the World’s Best Congress Centre. 139

SOCIEDAD FILARMÓNICA Marqués del Puerto, 2. Telf.: 944232621 www.filarmonica.org Metro: Moyúa. ABANDO. The Bilbao Philharmonic Society was founded in 1896. Some of the most important musicians of the 20th century have performed in its audi- torium, which boasts a great beauty as well as impressive acoustics.

SALA BBK Gran Vía, 19-21. www.bbk.es. Metro: Abando. ABANDO A space for urban, modern, open-minded cul- ture. Billings managed by the Arriaga Theatre. Seats 430. Funded by the financial entity, BBK.

LA FUNDICIÓN Francisco Maciá, 1. Telf.: 944753327 www.lafundicion.org Metro: Deusto. DEUSTO. La Fundición is Bilbao’s major alternative venue.

An essential window for new trends. STAGES

BASAURI SOCIAL ANTZOKIA Nagusia, 2 - BASAURI (Bizkaia). Telf.: 944666390 - 944666393 www.socialantzokia.com. Metro: Etxebarri. Regular theatre, dance, music and cinema bi- llings.

TEATRO Juan Sebastián Elcano, 4 BARAKALDO (Biscay). Telf.: 944780600 www.teatrobarkaldo.com Metro: Barakaldo. Venue specialised in contemporary theatre. Fla- menco season. 140 141 LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC

As in the all major European cities, Bilbao is home to many small concert venues, providing a complementary alternative to the mega-concerts held in the major audi- toriums. 142

KAFE ANTZOKIA San Vicente, 2. Tel.: 944244625 www.kafeantzokia.com Metro: Abando. ABANDO A gathering place for the Basque-speaking com- munity in Biscay. Old cinema converted into gig venue, bar and nightclub. Lunches served in the daytime. Located in Bilbao city centre, beside Plaza Jardines de Albia.

SANTANA 27 Santana, 27. Tel.: 944598617 - 690 237 569 www.santana27.com www.fever.es Metro: . BOLUETA Santana 27 is a multidisciplinary venue that offers rock, pop, heavy metal, reggae, Latin and hip-hop gigs, etc. It is also home to the disco club Fever, a restaurant, café, dance academy... 143 LIVE MUSIC 144

AZKENA Ibáñez de Bilbao, 26. Tel.: 944154551 www.azkena.com Metro: Abando. ABANDO Varied line-up from metal to electronic, from American rock to Spanish hip-hop, and of course Basque rock too. 145

BILBOROCK Muelle Merced, 1. Tel.: 4151306 www.bilbao.net/bilborock Metro: Casco Viejo. BILBAO LA VIEJA Old church converted into gig venue.

BILBAINA JAZZ CLUB Navarra,1. Tel.: 944235158 www.bilbainajazzclub.com Metro: Abando. ABANDO The temple of jazz in Bilbao. Thursdays at 10 p.m.

ROCK STAR LIVE Polígono Megapark - BARAKALDO (Biscay). Tel.: 944459295 www.salarockstar.com Metro: . Varied line-up. There is second gig venue under the same name located at Gran Vía, 89.

PLATERUENA Landako Etorbidea, 4 A - DURANGO (Biscay). LIVE Tel.: 946 030 300 - 946 030 100 MUSIC www.plateruena.net Landmark venue for contemporary Basque mu- sic.

ONDARROAKO KAFE ANTZOKIA Iparragirre, 10 behea - (Biscay). Tel.: 946834141 www.kafeantzokia.com 146 147

NIGHTLIFE

In recent years, nightlife in Bilbao has come to reflect the LIFE dynamism that is infused into all aspects of the city. NIGHT 148 149

LE CLUB Muelle Marzana, 4. Tel.: 944167111 www.leclub.es Metro: Casco Viejo. BILBAO LA VIEJA On the banks of the river, facing the La Ribera market. Great music at this three-storey venue. Each floor of the venue showcases a different music style: the first floor is for rock and 80s pop music, the second floor is for both local and international house music, and the attic is for han- ging out and relaxing to some exce- llent chill-out and chillhouse sounds. Fridays and Saturdays till 5.50 a.m. Sunday mornings from 11.30 a.m. LIFE NIGHT 150

THE IMAGE CLUB COTTON CLUB , 56 - (Biscay). Alameda Gregorio de la Revilla, 25. Tel.: 946682866 Tel.: 944104951 Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. www.theimageclub.com Also a gig venue. Monday to Thursday from 4.30 Metro: Berango. p.m. to 3 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays from 6.30 p.m. to 6 a.m. OTXOA PUB Heros, 9. Tel.: 944241848 EL BALCÓN DE LA LOLA Metro: Moyúa. ABANDO. From Monday to Sun- Bailén, 10. Tel.: 946086720. BILBAO LA VIEJA. day, from 7 p.m. to 3 a.m. The proprietor of this Fridays and Saturdays from midnight to 5 a.m. well-known venue is José Antonio Nielfa “La Sundays from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Metro: Abando. Otxoa”, gay icon of Bilbao. Also a gig venue.

CONGRESO CLUB BULLIT GROOVE CLUB Uribitarte, 8 bajo. Tel.: 944247382 Dos de mayo, 3. Tel.: 944163036 www.congresoclub.com Metro: Abando. www.bullitgrooveclub.com ABANDO. Weekend House and Tech-House Metro: Casco Viejo/Abando. BILBAO LA VIEJA. sessions. From 1 a.m. Admission free till 2 a.m. Very 70s aesthetic and decor. A landmark club.

CONJUNTO VACIO CAOS CLUB Muelle de la Merced, 4. Tel.: 944 158 338 Simón Bolivar, 10. www.conjuntovacio.net Tel.: 944103878 Metro: Casco Viejo. BILBAO LA VIEJA www.myspace.com/caos_club From midnight to 4 a.m. Saturday mornings and Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU public holidays, from 8 a.m. to noon. Electro-house, Electronic jazz, Minimal-house,... Well-known resident DJs. Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, till 4 a.m. 151

COTTON CLUB Alameda Gregorio de la Revilla, 25. Tel.: 944104951 Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. Also a gig venue. Monday to Thursday from 4.30 p.m. to 3 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays from 6.30 p.m. to 6 a.m.

EL BALCÓN DE LA LOLA Bailén, 10. Tel.: 946086720. BILBAO LA VIEJA. Fridays and Saturdays from midnight to 5 a.m. Sundays from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Metro: Abando. Also a gig venue.

BULLIT GROOVE CLUB Dos de mayo, 3. Tel.: 944163036 www.bullitgrooveclub.com Metro: Casco Viejo/Abando. BILBAO LA VIEJA. Very 70s aesthetic and decor. A landmark club.

CAOS CLUB Simón Bolivar, 10.

Tel.: 944103878 LIFE NIGHT www.myspace.com/caos_club Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU Electro-house, Electronic jazz, Minimal-house,... Well-known resident DJs. Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, till 4 a.m. 152 153

BARS & DRINKS VENUES

Sipping a gin and tonic or martini in a designer bar or on a sun-kissed terrace by the sea need not be a merely fanciful notion DRINK BARS & VENUES 154

MARZANA 16 Marzana, 16. Tel.: 944150137 Metro: Casco Viejo. BILBAO LA VIEJA All the charm of an old tavern, located beside restaurant El Perro Chico. Cosy lounge per- fect for a chat, a game of chess or a tasty sa- lad or sandwich. Excellent view of the river. Young, casual crowd. 155

SPLASH & CRASH Hotel Domine - Alameda Mazarredo, 61. Tel.: 944253300. www.hoteles-silken.com Metro: Moyúa. GUGGENHEIM. The Gran Hotel Domine’s bar and nightclub stands out thanks to its avant-garde design by Javier DRINK BARS & Mariscal. Excellent cocktail bar. Live blues VENUES and jazz gigs. 156

GOLFO NORTE Itsagane, s/n - SOPELANA (Biscay). Tel.: 946774600. An ideal venue when the weather’s nice. Open-air terrace with stunning sea and mountain views. Very popular with crowd. 157

MUGA Calle de María Muñoz 8. Tel.: 944 162 781 An historic meeting place in the Old Quarter. 25 years with the best people, rock and deli- cattessen sandwiches. DRINK BARS & VENUES 158

LA REINA DEL ARENAL Sendeja, 3. Tel.: 944130016 www.lareinadelarenal.com Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Minimalist, warm, cosy, really very homely. Restaurant.

PUBLIC LOUNGE Henao, 54. Tel.: 944052824 www.public-bilbao.com Metro: Moyúa. GUGGENHEIM. Exquisite atmosphere. Beautiful people. Signature cuisine restaurant.

KAMIN CAFÉ Manuel Allende, 8. Tel.: 944444121 Metro: Moyúa. INDAUTXU

NASCH Simón Bolívar, 11. Tel.: 944106186 Metro: Indautxu. INDAUTXU. Also a nice restau- rant, serving casual meals. Young, modern vibe. 159

RESIDENCE Barrainkua, s/n. Tel.: 944052666 www.residencecafe.com Metro: Moyúa. ABANDO. Also gig venue. Beer and whiskey menu..

AMBIGÚ San Vicente, 5. Tel.: 944242343 www.ambigubilbao.com Metro: Abando. ABANDO. Also gig venue and res- taurant serving creative cuisine.

LUZ DE GAS Pelota, 5. Tel.: 944790823 Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Great drinks. Bar design characterised by its Ja- panese influence.

EL PEÑÓN Playa Atxabiribil, 82 - SOPELANA (Biscay) Tel.: 946760786 www.elpenondesopelana.com Metro: Larrabasterra. A venue of reference on the Biscayan coast. DRINK BARS & VENUES 160 161

COFFEE´S

There are still many traditional coffee houses and tea- room establishments to be found around Bilbao. Perfect places for a lively debate or leisurely chat, these are gathering places for several generations of local “bilbaí- nos”. COFFE´S 162

CAFÉ GARO Alameda Urquijo, 6. Tel.: 94416 9735 Metro: Abando. ABANDO. Professionals and beautiful people. Modern vibe. Excellent breakfasts and salads. 163

CAFÉ NERVIÓN La Naja, 7. Tel.: 944169189 Metro: Abando. BILBAO LA VIEJA. This place has a spe- cial charm. Overlooking the river. Sandwiches, rolls and salads. COFFE´S 164

PASTELERÍA NEW YORK , 15. Tel.: 944232517 Metro: Abando. ABANDO. The lounge of the New York bakery has a spe- cial charm. Ideal for reading the newspaper over breakfast or meeting up with friends for a chat. An oasis of peace in the heart of the city. 165

CAFÉ BOULEVARD Paseo del Arenal, 3. Tel.: 944153128 Metro: Casco Viejo. Located near the Arriaga Theatre, this long-standing café was completely renovated in 2010. The basement is home to the avant-garde pub Le Boulevard Nouveau, which specialises in drinks and cocktails. All the rage. COFFE´S 166 167

CAFÉ LA GRANJA Plaza Circular, 3. Tel.: 944230813 www.cafesdebilbao.net Metro: Abando. ABANDO. Built in the style of a Parisian café in 1926. Set lunchtime menu. Primarily drinks venue at weekends.

CAFÉ BILBAO Plaza Nueva, 6. Tel.: 944151671 www.bilbao-cafebar.com Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Nest- led in one of Bilbao’s favourite spots. Since 1911. Excellent bar for “pintxos” (tapas).

SUA Marqués Del Puerto, 4. Tel.: 944232292 www.sua.es Metro: Moyua. Closes Monday nights. ABANDO. Restaurant by night, pleasant café by day.

EL TILO Paseo del Arenal, 1. Tel.: 944150282. Clo- ses at 8 p.m. Metro: Casco Viejo. CASCO VIEJO. Small, cosy café radiating a feel of the old Bilbao. Beside Arriaga Theatre. Take note of opening hours.

CAFÉ IRUÑA Berastegi, 5. Tel.: 944 237 021 www.cafesdebilbao.net Metro: Abando. ABANDO. Established in 1903, a popular meeting-place for natives and tourists alike. Set lunchtime menu and

delicious “pincho moruno” lamb kebabs. COFFE´S 168 169

LGBT SCENE

Bilbao is an open-minded welcoming city for lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender people. Although most of its gay scene is concentrated in the Old Quarter and Bilbao “La Vieja” districts (bars, saunas, shops, etc.) the Zabálburu district is also of interest. For further informa- tion contact: ALDARTE (www.aldarte.org) BIZIGAY [email protected]) EHGAM (www.ehgam.org) ERRESPETUZ ([email protected]) EUSKAL HARTZAK ([email protected]) HEGOAK (www.hegoak.com) LGBT MASS MEDEAK (www.mass-medeak.blogspot.com) SCENE QUEER EKINTZA (www.queerekintza.blogspot.com) 170 OLD QUARTER CAFÉS, BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 171

LAMIAK Pelota, 8. Tel.: 944159642. One of the most emblematic gay venues in Bilbao. A two-storey café, by day ideal for a co- ffee and a chat, a game of chess or a sli- ce of delicious chocolate cake. By night it becomes a pleasant yet lively drinks venue. Mixed.

BIZITZA Torre,1. Tel.: 944165882. Located just steps away from Lamiak, Bizitza is ano- ther must-see venue for any visitor. Wide range of teas, coffees and liqueurs. At- tentive, personal service. Mixed. LGBT SCENE 172

LA MARINA Nueva, 2. Tel.: 944150045. This time-honoured bar has been converted into a unique new ve- nue where you can listen to some music whilst nibbling on some “pintxos” or enjoying cocktails. As the day progresses, it transforms into a fun nightclub. + Girls. 173

SÉPTIMO CIELO LGBT Pelota, 4. Tel.: 944 735 502. A small venue that SCENE is gradually making its mark on Pelota street thanks to its busy terrace space. Mixed. 174 175

CONVENTO Esperanza, 14. Great drinks. Open Fridays and Saturdays from 9 p.m. to 3 a.m. Mixed.

EKKLESIA C/ Hernani, 3

KEY Cristo, 13. www.asierbilbao.es Show times: Fridays at 1 a.m. Saturdays at 1a.m. and 3 a.m. A classic in Bilbao’s nightlife, located near City Hall. Performer Asier Bilbao is the master of ce- remonies at this legendary venue for the city’s gay community.

LA MERCED Ribera, 16.

EL BALCÓN DE LA LOLA Bailén 10.

DISTRITO 9 Alameda de Recalde, 18. LGBT SCENE 176 OLD QUARTER ACCESSORIES 177

ES COLLECTION BILBAO Torre, 7. Tel.: 944795837. www.es- collection.es. Underwear and swi- mwear for men. +Guys.

SEXO ARTE ESPACIO ERÓTICO Belosticalle, 26. Tel.: 946412383. www.sexoarteonline.net Closed Sundays. Lingerie, erotic gift items, exhibi- tions,... +Girls. LGBT SCENE 178 OLD QUARTER HAIR SALONS

LOGAN Santa María, 11. Tel.: 944790874. www.logan.es Hair styling, extensions, cuts, body piercing, rings, scarring, adult toys,... Mixed. 179

LA BARAQUE Carnicería Vieja, 18. Tel.: 944160807 www.labaraque.net Hair styling, extensions, rastas, dreadlocks, fi- bre, , plastics... “Between the lot of us we’re sure to find a style for you. At La Baraque we are all different, all creative”. Mixed. LGBT SCENE 180 BILBAO “LA VIEJA” CAFÉS, BARS AND NIGHTCLUBS

THE SANTU BEAR Dos de Mayo, 8. Tel.: 944 159496 - 635 008 058. www.santubear.es Bilbao’s bear sanctuary. + Guys. 181

HEAVEN LGBT Dos de Mayo, 4. Nightclub. SCENE + Guys. 182 BILBAO “LA VIEJA” CAFÉS, BARS AND NIGHTCLUBS

MYKONOS General Castillo, 4. Dance club. + Guys. 183 LGBT SCENE BADULAKE Hernani, 10. Tel.: 944158193. www.badulake.net Café-Theatre. Mixed. 184 BILBAO “LA VIEJA” CAFÉS, BARS AND NIGHTCLUBS

NEW HIGH Naja, 5. Boys’ club.

ENIGMA Luis Iruarrizaga, 7. Tel.: 944790789. A classic in the area. Dance music. Much frequented. +Guys.

SILDABIA Lamana, 1. Tel.: 946790342. Open Thursday through Sunday. Modern scene. DJs. +Girls. 185 BILBAO “LA VIEJA” BOOKSHOPS

ANTI LIBURUDENDA LGBT Dos de Mayo, 2. Tel.: 944150375 SCENE www.anti-web.com Specialised in urban culture, comics, film, etc. 186 ZABALBURU SAUNAS

EGO Plaza Zabalburu, 2. Tel.: 944700777 www.saunaego.es A venue for guys. Very liberal, uninhibited atmos- phere. Turkish bath, Finnish sauna, labyrinth, dark room, etc. 187

ELEMENT Particular de Costa, 8-10. Tel.: 944052303 www.element.es Very popular on Sundays. LGBT SCENE 188

AMERICAN´S Nicolás Alkorta, 5. Tel.: 944703492 The latest on the gay scene.

ZARZAMORA Padre Lojendio, 5. Telf.: 944152106. Closer to Plaza Circular than to Zabálburu.

FANTASÍAS Nicolas Alkorta, 7 (ground floor).

LA PERA NIolás Alkorta, 5 (ground floor). 189 ZABALBURU SEX-SHOPS

FANTASIAS General Eguía, 21-23. Closer to Plaza Circular than to Zabálburu. LGBT SCENE 190 191

BEACHES OF BISCAY

The and its coastline is one of the most beautiful in Europe. When the good weather rolls in, a trip to some of the wonderful beaches of Biscay is highly recommendable. BEACHES 192 193 GORRONDATXE GETXO. www.getxo.net. Metro: . Length: 844 metres. Swimming, sun, beach , surfing, boogie boarding, walking. Surrounded by nature. Beach bar. Nudist area.

BARINATXE GETXO-SOPELANA. www.sopelana.net. Metro: Larrabasterra. Length: 852 metres. Swimming, sun, beach tennis, surfing, bo- ogie boarding, volleyball, kite flying, paragli- ding, concerts, climbing, windsurfing, beach football, walking, nudist races. Nudist area.

ARRIETARA-ATXABIRIBIL SOPELANA. www.sopelana.net. Metro: La- rrabasterra. Length: 826 metres. Swimming, sun, beach tennis, surfing, boogie boarding, walking. Bars and restaurants. Young vibe.

MEÑAKOZ Length: 400 metres. Swimming, sun, beach volleyball, surfing, boogie boarding, walking. Cove surrounded by nature. Beach bar. Nu- dist area.

MURIOLA BARRIKA. Length: 176 metres. Swimming, sun, climbing, surfing, boogie boarding, wal- king. Cove surrounded by nature. Beach bar. Nudist area. BEACHES 194 195 PLENTZIA PLENTZIA. Metro: Plentzia. Length: 356 metres. Swimming, sun, beach tennis, sur- fing, boogie boarding, beach volleyball, kite flying, canoeing, kids’ games, open-air con- certs. Family beach in urban setting. Bars and restaurants.

GORLIZ . Metro: Plentzia. Length: 842 me- tres. Swimming, sun, beach tennis, jet skis, canoeing, kids’ games, horse races, wind- surfing, sailing. Family beach. Bars and res- taurants.

LAIDA . Length: 812 metres. Swi- mming, sun, beach tennis, windsurfing, sai- ling, walking. Family beach surrounded by nature. Bars and restaurants.

LAGA IBARRANGELU. Length: 574 metres. Swi- mming, sun, beach tennis, surfing, boogie boarding, walking. Family beach surroun- ded by nature. Beach bar.

KARRASPIO . Length: 462 metres. Swimming, sun, beach tennis, sailing kite flying, wal- king, scuba diving, open-air concerts, beach football. Family beach in urban setting. Bars and restaurants. BEACHES 196 197

ESCAPES Bizkaia is much more than just Bilbao: idyllic beaches, nature, traditions,... Getaways to a little piece of paradi- se, just round the corner from the city. 198 ARRATIA NERVION: URDUÑA Urduña is the only of monumental old town, the largest in Biscay with the official title of “city”, Biscay, was declared a historical- and is an exclave of Biscay in the monumental ensemble in 1997. province of . Its strategic lo- Still standing among the remains of cation as a transit point from the the old city walls is one of the seven central tableau to the coast was a gates that provided access to the determining factor in the importance city, “Portal Oscuro”, located the city has held throughout history next to the Town Hall. Also worth in military as well as in commercial noting are the stately Renaissance terms, as attested by the remains of buildings of Palacio Ortés de Velas- Roman roads and settlements found co and Palacio Mimenza, the Baro- in the area. que Palacio Díaz de Pimienta, the The streets retain their medieval Baroque Sagrada Familia church pattern and preserve countless and the shrine of Our Lady of La and notable buildings which reflect Antigua, patron saint of the city, built the city’s past splendour: Customs in the 18th century on a pre-existing House (three-storey Neoclassical shrine of which the Gothic ogival building with rectangular plan), the arch entrance is preserved under a Baroque Town Hall building, the Je- Renaissance portico. suit church and school, the church of Santa María (a church-fortress built in the 15th Fore more information en century), Plaza de los ... The www.urduna.com

BUSTURIALDEA: PAINTED FOREST OF OMA The work of sculptor and painter Agustín Ibarrola in the municipality of , in the Urdaibai Natural Reserve, the Painted Forest esta- blishes a striking relationship bet- ween art and nature. The composi- tion of figures painted on the bark of pine trees fills the forest with a magical feel, changing pers- pective as you walk along. Fore more information in TURISM OFFICE OF 199 : NATURAL PARK Situated on the mountains of the meteorite according to some, it Duranguesado area, the Park will help you find a spouse. spreads over the Mythology, traditions and cus- of Abadiño, Dima, Durango, toms , Mañaria, Atxondo and These vast and awe-striking Aramaio (Álava) covering an landscapes fed many legends, area of 5768 hectares. such as the Lady of Anbo- to -also known as Mari-, who URKIOLA SHRINE dwells in the mountain bearing Located in the town of Abadiño, the same name. This deity re- it is one of Biscay’s oldest shri- presents mother earth and con- nes. A place of pilgrimage whe- trols the weather, springs and re ancestral rites are perfor- crops and punishes pride, lying med, in particular on 13th June and stealing. Her two sons, during the feast of San Antonio Atagarri and Mikelatz, repre- de Padua, invoked to help find sent good and evil. love and lost property. On the According to the legend, Mari’s feast of San Antonio Abad on cave is on an imposing vertical 17th January, the saint’s bread cliff face on the eastern face of is blessed and given damp to Mount . livestock. Both rites are part of the traditional Basque culture. Tradition has it that if you walk around the large stone standing Fore more information at the entrance to the shrine, a www.abadiano.org

EZKERRALDEA: BIZKAIA BRIDGE The Bizkaia transporter bridge connects Portugalete with the town of Getxo. Built in 1893, its height was determined by the need to allow large ships upri- ver. It spans one hundred and sixty metres linking both banks of the estuary. 200 ENCARTACIONES: Situated on the foothills of Mount PUENTE VIEJO OR DE LA MUZA Ordunte, the town of Balmaseda (OLD BRIDGE) sits on rugged terrain on the banks A symbolic element of the town, the of the river. It was the first bridge was part of the city walls du- Villa (town) founded in the Señorío ring the and had to be of Biscay. Making the most of its ex- crossed as part of the trade route to cellent location between the moun- Castile. Its origin dates back to tains and the river and being a tran- the 13th century when it served as a sit point on the trade routes between lookout post as well as a toll collec- Castile and Biscay, Balmaseda be- tion station at this strategic location came an important commercial hub. on the wool trade route. At the beginning of last century, the arrival of railway line and of industrialisation revitalised the town with a booming timber and me- Fore more information tal industry. www.balmaseda.net

LEA ARTIBAI: Lekeitio is a town traversed by the ses. The interior contains a Flemish Lea river, which discharges into Gothic altarpiece dating from the be- Isuntza and Karraspio beaches. It ginning of the 16th century. was built on the slopes of Mount Other notable buildings are the Je- Otorio and Mount Lumentza, which suit school, the Turpin tower, the Ba- offers imposing panoramic views roque Uriarte palace, the Oxangoiti of the town. Just off the beaches is palace and the Santo Domingo con- San Nicolás island, only accessible vent in Renaissance style. at low tide. Other places to visit include the This port town, which boasts Marea Errota tide mill and the ship- a monumental old quarter of co- yard on the marshes of the Lea river bblestone streets, is packed with and the Santa Catalina lighthouse. remarkable buildings. Among them, Continuing along the port we come the Basilica of the Asunción de San- across the 18th century hermitage ta María. In a late Gothic style with of San Juan. some modifications made in the 19th century, the plan consists of three naves varying in height, topped by ribbed vaults. The central nave is Fore more information supported on elegant flying buttres- www.lekeitio.com 201 202 KOSTA: GETXO

The municipality encompasses the neighbourhoods of , Algorta, and Santa María de Getxo. Getxo offers a blend of atmospheres, from the flavours of a small town to the sophistication of a modern city. If to this we add ten kilometres of coastline with magnificent beaches (Las Arenas, Ereaga, Arrigunaga, Azkorri-Gorrondatxe), it can unmistakably be claimed that Getxo offers an unbeatable range of activities for visitors. The town’s ancestral relationship with the sea makes it a privileged spot for water sports.

Fore more information www.getxo.net 203 204 ANNUAL EVENTS Biscay hosts several annual cultural, social and gastro- nomic events, a perfect combination of the tradition and dynamism of the Basque Country, one of Europe’s most innovative regions.

ASTE NAGUSIA KALEALDIA. BILBAO BILBAO Bilbao Festival of Street Performan- The Bilbao Annual Festival. 9 days, ce and Street Art. Held in July on from Friday to the following Sunday, the Gran Vía and in the Old Quarter. in August. Organised by the Festival www.bilbao.net. Associations and the City Council. Public “fiestas” congregating visitors SANTO TOMAS MARKET from all over the world. Concerts, BILBAO theatre, bullfights, circus, fireworks... On 21 December in the Arenal dis- The city, and all of Biscay, hits the trict and Plaza Nueva, farmers from streets for Aste Nagusia, especially all over Biscay bring their fares to in the Arenal district and all over the Bilbao. Thousands of Biscayans ga- Old Quarter. ther in Bilbao from first thing in the www.astenagusia.com. morning. One of the most important festivities of the year. BBK LIVE BILBAO MONDAYS IN GERNIKA Three days of open-air concerts with GERNIKA groups like REM, The , Red Every Monday of the year a farmer’s Hot Chilli Peppers, Metallica, Depe- market is held in Gernika, gathering che Mode, Pearl Jam,... producers from all over the Bus- www.bilbaobbklive.com. turialdea district and visitors from every corner of Biscay. This is one ZINEBI of the few traditional markets still re- BILBAO. ZINEBI is Bilbao’s Inter- gularly held in the Basque Country. national Documentary and Short The market is located in the Plaza Film Festival, a class-A event. Held de Gernika town square on Don Te- in November in the Arriaga Thea- llo Street, close to the train and bus tre and in a range of other cinemas station. The market building covers around the city. over 4,960 m2 of trading space. www.zinebi.com. www.gernika-lumo.net. 205 GETXOPHOTO GETXO Promoted by the Begihandi collec- tive, GETXOPHOTO was born in 2007, a festival dedicated to photo- graphy, understanding it in the sen- se of knowledge, communication and of course, esthetical enjoyment. GETXOPHOTO is for –without forgetting what’s habitual– the ex- ploration of formats, materials and unconventional exhibition spaces. This is one of its main identity signs. It is not about decorating the city but cutting it to tell stories through espe- cially chosen images. From walls to shops windows, parks or buildings, we imagine the city as a live exhibit space, a great open frame, where one can enjoy photography walking along the street. Usually held on sept/oct. www.getxophoto.com

GETXO INTERNATIONAL MUSIKALE JAZZ FESTIVAL International Busking Festival. Held GETXO in the month of September in a num- Metro: Algorta. Getxo hosts a highly ber of districts throughout Biscay: successful jazz festival, welcoming , , Basauri and . major names from the internatio- With the sponsorship of the Biscay nal jazz scene. The municipality of Regional Council. Getxo has a vast musical tradition, www.bizkaia.net also hosting yearly blues and folk festivals. EASTER IN BALMASEDA www.getxo.net/jazzgetxo BALMASEDA Traditional Live Stations of the ANIMA BASAURI Cross, performed by the locals. BASAURI www.viacrucisbalmaseda.com International Animated Film Fes- tival. Held in April at the Antzokia Social Theatre and other venues around Basauri and Bilbao. www.animabasauri.com 206 207

GETTING THERE & AROUND Bilbao offers visitors a modern transportation infrastruc- ture that connects it with the rest of Europe atransport system also makes it easy and comfortable to get around the capital and its . 208

AIRPORT provides connections to many other Spanish cities and to major European capitals from where to connect to intercontinental destinations.

The airport is located in the GETTING TO THE AIRPORT municipality of , 12 km from Bilbao, and is easily accessible, BY TAXI connected with the A-8 highway The journey between the airport which runs west to Santander and Bilbao is 15 minutes by and east to San Sebastián, taxi. Irún and ; and with the Tel.: 944 800 909 AP-68 to Logroño, , Barcelona, and Madrid. BY CAR The fastest route to reach the airport from the centre of Bilbao Fore more information by car is via Alameda Recalde Tel.: 902 404 704 street and over the La Salve www.aena.es bridge. On the other side of the bridge a turnoff to the left provides access to the Artxanda tunnel, with exit on the Corridor, a freeway with clear indications to the airport. BY BUS Airport bus services are provi- ded by the company Bizkaibus, route 3247. Departs from the Termibús bus station in Calle Gurtubay 1, with stops at Calle Gran Vía 79, Plaza Moyúa and Calle Alameda Recalde 11. Hours of operation From 5.25 to 21.55, at 30 minute intervals. Tel.: 902 222 265 209

BUS ROAD Termibús, the bus terminal The province of Biscay boasts for all the regular bus lines, is an excellent road infrastructure located in Bilbao and can be that connects it with the accessed from Luis Briñas, major Spanish cities: the Gurtubay and Pérez Galdós Madrid-Burgos freeway, the streets. A-68 Burgos-Vitoria-Bilbao highway, the N-634 road, the A touch screen at the Termibús Bilbao-Santander Autovía provides information regarding del Cantábrico A-8 freeway, bus companies and routes the Bilbao-Irún (France) A-8 with origin and destination highway, and the A-2 Bilbao- at this station, while arrivals Zaragoza-Barcelona highway. and departures information is displayed on a TV monitor and electronic panel system. The station also has a left-luggage office, parcel transportation service and WiFi hotspot.

Fore more information Tel.: 94 439 50 77 www.termibus.es

GETTING TO THE TERMIBÚS

BY METRO San Mamés station BY Sabino Arana stop BY RAILWAY San Mamés station (RENFE Cercanías) BY BUS Several and Bizkaibus routes. 210

RAIL Bilbao’s Abando rail station (Estación del Norte) is located right in the centre of the city on Plaza Circular, on the corner of Gran Vía and Hurtado de Amézaga streets. It has a Metro Bilbao entrance and direct access to the various RENFE Cercanías railway lines (Santurtzi, , Orduña). Next to the station is the Concordia (FEVE) station for commuter, regional and long distance trains (Balmaseda, Santander, Carranza Valley, León). Outside the station are three Bizkaibus bus stops servicing the towns of the (Ezkerraldea), and Duranguesado areas; and five Bilbobus bus stops servicing all of the city’s districts. The station is part of the project incorporating the High Speed Train that will connect the three Basque capitals.

RENFE www.renfe.es Customer service number: Information, reservations and sales: 902 24 02 02 Internet sales information: 902 10 94 20

FEVE Tel.: 94 425 06 15 www.feve.es 211

SANTURTZI- FERRY A ferry service links the town of Santurtzi to the English city of Portsmouth.

INFORMATION Santurtzi Tourist Information Office: Avda. Cristóbal Murrieta, s/n. Santurtzi. Tel.: 94 483 94 94

P&O Ferries (Bizkaia) S.A. Cosme Echevarrieta, 1 Tel.: 902 020 461 www.poferries.com [email protected]

GETTING TO THE PORT

BY BUS Bizkaibus. Direct route A-3151 from Plaza Jado in Bilbao. Tel.: 94 448 40 70 902 222 265 BY RAIL RENFE Cercanías Line C-1 to Santurtzi station. Tel.: 94 487 92 22 BY ROAD A-8 highway direction Santander, taking the “Santurtzi-Puerto” exit 212

METRO Since its inauguration, the Metro Bilbao network, designed by Sir Norman Foster and his team, has become the backbone of the with a Y-shaped configuration that runs along both banks of the river, converging in Bilbao. The moderation and sobriety of materials draws attention for its originality, combining functionality and aesthetics. Access to the metro is provided by “fosteritos”, unique steel and glass structures that stand attractive while blending with the urban landscape.

CREDITRANS is a travel card which can be used for travel on all transport operators integrated in the system: Metro Bilbao, Bilbobus, Bizkaibus, La Salve Bridge lift, Artxanda Funicular, Bizkaia Transporter Bridge and . The amount of each trip is subtracted from the credit INFORMATION remaining on the card, and the Metro Bilbao ticket is valid for transferring Ibaigane, 17 between operators. Areeta-Las Arenas Also at San Inazio, Creditrans cards can be Casco Viejo and Ansio purchased from ticket vending stations machines, newsstands and Tel.: 94 425 40 25 tobacco shops. [email protected] www.metrobilbao.net 213

BIZKAIBUS TAXI Bizkaibus is a regional bus Bilbao is a relatively small network linking Bilbao with all city without excessive traffic other towns in Biscay. In Bilbao, congestion, which has allowed buses depart from a number the taxi service to become of locations: Termibús bus a fast, comfortable mode of station (Gurtubay, 1), Abando transportation around the city. Station (on Calle Hurtado de Taxis are white with a red stripe Amézaga), Calle Bailén and and a rooftop light indicates if Calle Henao. the taxi is available or occupied. Radio Taxi Nervión information Tel.: 94 426 90 26 Tel.: 902 22 22 65 Tele Taxi [email protected] Tel.: 94 410 21 21 www.bizkaia.net Radio Taxi Bilbao Tel.: 94 444 88 88 BILBOBUS Local bus network serving all of the city’s neighbourhoods. www.bilbao.net/bilbobus 214

TRAM RAIL The modern tram service was RENFE provides a suburban put into operation on 18th rail commuter network December 2002. Of sober (Cercanías) with three lines: design, the tram harmonises Santurtzi and Muskiz, in the with the variety of architectural Encartaciones region, and styles of Bilbao. Orduña in the Arratia-Nervión area. The tram operates at 5 and 10 minute intervals connecting the Information neighbourhoods of and www.renfe.es Basurto. FEVE [email protected] (narrow gauge railways) links Information the Bilbao-Concordia station Tel.: 902 543 210 with the Encartaciones area www.euskotren.es (Balmaseda, …). Information Tel.: 94 425 06 15 EUSKOTREN www.feve.es Bilbao-Bermeo Line (Durangaldea area: Amorebieta, Gernika, Bermeo…)

Bilbao-Donostia/San Sebastián Line (Durangaldea area: Amorebieta and Durango)

Information Tel.: 902 543 210 [email protected] 215

BICYCLE BILBAOCARD A bicycle loan service is offered To make it easier for visitors to for cycling trips within the get around the city and ensure municipality of Bilbao. an enjoyable time, Bilbao Turismo issues the BilbaoCard The loan period of up to five Tourist Card which allows hours is available from May to tourists to use the local public November from 9.00 to 20.00 transport system at reduced hours. fares and take advantage of significant discounts at Fore more information museums, shops, restaurants, BILBAO TURISMO OFFICE leisure facilities, performances www.bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo and other services.

KADAGUA RAILWAY Where to buy the BilbaoCard: This historic railway dating Bilbao Turismo Offices from 1929 is equipped with all Plaza Ensanche, 11 modern comforts. The route Tel.: 94 479 57 60 departs from Bilbao, traversing the Valley and the Bilbao International Airport source of the Kadagua river, (Departure Terminal) visiting Medina de Pomar and Tel.: 94 471 03 01 Balmaseda. Abandoibarra Etorbidea, 2 Plaza Arriaga, s/n (Ground floor of Arriaga Theatre building)

Albergue Bilbao Aterpetxea Ctra. Basurto-Kastrexana, 70 Tel.: 94 427 00 54 216 USEFUL INFORMATION BILBAO VISITOR CONSULATES Consulate of Ireland INFORMATION OFFICES Consular Corps of Bilbao Elcano 5 1º Dcha 48011 Bilbao BILBAO TURISMO Gran Vía 13, 6º, Dpto. 604 +34 94 423 04 14 Plaza Ensanche, 11 (Edificio Albia) 13, Dpto. 3 Tel.: 94 479 57 60 48001 Bilbao Tel.: 94 470 64 26 Consulate of Fax: 94 479 57 61 Ercilla 14, 2ºA [email protected] Consulate of Austria 48009 Bilbao Opening hours: +34 94 423 07 72 Mon-Fri: 9.00-14.00 and 16.00- Club, 8 48930 Las Arenas - Getxo 19.30 Consulate of the Netherlands +34 94 464 07 63 Tourist, cultural and leisure Alameda Mazarredo 9, 1º information on Bilbao,Biscay 48001 Bilbao and the Basque Autonomous Consulate of Belgium +34 94 435 45 52 Community Paulino Mendivil 8, 1º 48930 Las Arenas Consulate of Norway Guggenheim Tourist Getxo Gran Via 17, 5ª pl.-dpto. 4 Information Office +34 94 464 48 40 48001 Bilbao Avenida Abandoibarra, 2 +34 94 415 16 66 Opening hours: British Consulate Tue-Fri: 11.00-18.00 Alameda Urquijo 2, 8 º Consulate of Sat: 11.00-19.00 48008 Bilbao Elcano 7, 1º Sun: 11.00-15.00 +34 94 415 76 00 48011 Bilbao Summer opening hours: +34 94 435 45 40 Mon-Sat: 10.00-19.00 Consulate of Denmark Sun: 10.00-18.00 Uribitarte 8, 6º Consulate of Sweden 48001 Bilbao Calle Henao 4, 4ºD Arriaga Theatre Tourist +34 94 479 08 35 48009 Bilbao Information Office: +34 94 424 64 09 +34 94 435 65 70 Plaza Arriaga, s/n +34 629 10 14 37 (Ground floor, Arriaga Theatre) Consulate of Consulate of Finland Opening hours: Barroeta Aldamar 6, 5º San Vicente 8 Mon-Fri: 11.00-14.00 and 48001 Bilbao Edificio Albia II Bajo A 17.00-19.30 +34 94 424 07 32 Sat: 9.30-14.00 and 48001 Bilbao 17.00-19.30 +34 94 423 90 36 Consulate of Chile Sun: 9.30-14.00 Campo Volantin 29, 1º Centro Consulate of France Summer opening hours: 48007 Bilbao Iparraguirre 26, 5ºDcha. Mon-Sun: 9.30-14.00 and +34 94 446 73 02 48011 Bilbao 16.00-19.30 +34 94 446 46 84 +34 94 425 51 80 Bilbao International Airport Consulate of Consulate of Germany Tel.: 944 710 301 Alda. Mazarredo 47, 6º, San Vicente, 8 Fax: 944 711 240 oficina 6 (Edificio Albia) 13, Dpto. 3 [email protected] 48009 Bilbao 48001 Bilbao Opening hours: +34 94 423 05 39 Mon-Fri: 7.30-23.00 +34 94 423 85 85 Sat-Sun: 8.30-23.00 Consulate of Mexico Consulate of Greece Gran Vía 40-bis, 5º dcha. Alameda Recalde 27, 2º Tourist Information Telephone 48009 Bilbao 48009 Bilbao Number +34 94 423 89 37 +34 94 423 97 39 Tel.: 944 710 301 [email protected] Hours: www.consulmexhonbilbao.net Mon-Fri: 7.30 to 23.00 Consulate of Iceland Calle Las Mercedes 25 bajo 1bis Sat-Sun: 8.30 to 23.00 Consulate of 48930 Las Arenas Hurtado de Amezaga 27, 9º Getxo 48008 Bilbao +34 94 431 50 13 +34 94 444 49 66 217

Consulate of Philippines Teofilo Guiard 2, 1º 48011 Bilbao +34 94 442 38 92

Consulate of South Africa Las Mercedes 31 4º dpto 2 48930 Las Arenas Getxo (Bizkaia) +34 94 464 11 24 +34 94 480 03 28

CITIZEN SAFETY Luis Briñas 14 48071 Bilbao Tel:94 420 50 00

ERTZAINTZA. SOS - DEIAK Tel.:112 Tel.: 94 444 14 44

NATIONAL POLICE TELEPHONE NUMBERS: 091 94 470 90 00

HEALTH CARE Bilbao has an extensive health care in- frastructure covering the needs of citizens through the Basque Health Care Service (Osakidetza), or any of the private health care centres. Visitors from other countries should ensu- re they have health cover through national health schemes with reciprocity agree- ments (E-128 or European Health Insuran- ce Card from countries and Liechtenstein, Iceland, Norway and Switzerland), or through private medical cover. The E-128 or European Health Insurance Card allows holders to have a doctor assigned to them and covers any hospital emergency in public hospitals.

Osakidetza Emergencies Mª Diaz de Haro, 53 48010-Bilbao Tel.: 94 410 00 00 218 219

BILBAO BIZKAIA OPEN MIND

Published by: Diputación Foral de Bizkaia / Dirección General de Promoción Turística - Regional Government of Biscay / Directorate General for Tourism Promotion

Layout and Typesetting: Simple Comunicación

Photographs: Mari Luz Vidal, main photography production. Pablo López Muñoz (p. 12) Yosu Arregi (p. 14) Kepa Kareaga (p. 15) Eduardo Sorrouille (p. 18, self-portrait) Héctor Basabe (pp. 24-27-29-30-31-32-35-36) Archivo de Fotos de la Diputación Foral de Bizkaia (p. 39-197-200-202) Marcos López (p. 204)

Deposito Legal es BI - 1401 - 2010

© Diputación Foral de Bizkaia, Bilbao, 2010

All text, photographs and maps in this Guide remain the property of the Diputación Foral de Bizkaia / Regional Government of Biscay. Reproduction of text, photographs, maps and visual elements is expressly prohibited without the prior written consent of the Diputación Foral de Bizkaia.

All rights reserved. TR AV ES IA T TIB HUERTAS IB OL 220 DE LA VILLA O I L A I TAN QUIN PASEO C WALKING TOURS AMPO VOLANTIN

O UGASK S Four routes that will give you LVE - E LA SA N TUNEL D E CAMPA DE LO JA an idea of just why Bilbao is LLE S INGLES MUE ES PASEO URIBIT one of the top tourist desti- ARTE M U

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G A U R I A Ó Z E I T N O E U E E R U R I K A M A T D A E R EN G Q K L R A Q R A E A D E E O D JA B E D A L I R E E V R A L R L R R T A A L E R N L A E G M C A P L E O U E L A A E L U N A E E N E A U D Ó A J Museo Diocesano ID D IA L R ADO A R T D O T N S M O de Arte Sacro T C O N E A E C R V L VI E

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J UA H la Encarnación B E D M L I E I E . N M NA I R V PS A A UELLE DE M ZA R A AR U R A X A I LAMANA N K C T U I E I S R X G T M A U N I E E A O O R R H A I L B A I ID R U Z N A I A A UE E E K S R G G L AV A P RI CA BE O U N D O I R D O N A I O E W R H R R H E E R I E R D P L É Z E V E A A LA P A O ID I C O R Z J R L O I D N O R P E U M O U O V Ñ L G A A O A A E IE D Q N G A S D L G IA R O N ISC C IA A N L C U C U N L É O I N A A R E R A S DA G I F C R C D N A O A I SA S U J Í L A L E TE D . V R R M R D S O S N A R A CO IS A L U I R C E L A P A M E A O M E R I AN T G A E S GR E O D G A G O R P NA D M MI A D E E I I I A L A D R A V C N L N S U E L D E E A R E A L Ñ D S A V R B O A Z T A A IAS E CONC R EPCIÓN E L A D N T G Z D Á R E E U E U O N A R R B V I D IG E R . A I M C JO F G O P DR I U C R S T G U E N O E S A Q O N T O RO O R R N C O O R U E E R Í R E A E P J D R A D C U S G E R I A A N D M Ó L L A O A A N I B N I L O O G A A R A L A R Z A J Z O I AMES C G C U O P O SAN M G EDA O A A M D O LAM A I M R D A D R R IN E IA A N K E M R A O C R C I HA N E D S E A A A J E L H A O IC L URI N L I A M F R L A A E R M A L O Z C IC A E A . IO ID Í N A Ñ S V V A R N IM A Z E M I G E E O G L E K ABAL R N A L O J N A DON M I O O A L OSTIA D IJ U D S U A A Q E E É R L U ÍA A A M D L I E L O R AM E N A L M N O A T L A D U A R AR E A M Í IV A A L A A O N J B U O R D N S Í I Ó A DEUST A A M E VIE O I T LD IJ Z S U A S R K A U D CANA C RQ A S Y S I U B E Ó A A T B A A I TELA D N H LD A D POS O A L IR I COM A G O DE B A AME O E Z N ANTIAG G L S R E A E S A A R V R A C O PE L A BE A I E U íA A OR BE U INOS IB Z G R ESP A A E CTO R L AL R DO O R A E Z CAZA E N A PI L A GE L L R AV A RUA E A . D S BA U N L N EL A MARTÍ M A FE R RR E S O A N Ó CA Í E LD R M G A R O L G íA N U I O U G L T I E S L U A Z A A G G E R A R B E U É N BE P R E LA R I G Ñ G O T E A A D U T O S E A S B O V O LA K R EN T O A N D I S IC A A D DEU N Y Z V A RIBE DE N . O S RA A A D AN S T N E EL AD O IZ R NK PA FE IÁ ZA BL RR N O OC DE A MUEL UCA RR LE ALFONSO CHURR AL IL ZO LA

DEO EVI A AVE MONT Z NIDA DE AN TE R PA DOS DE MAYO Como en otras capitales - Librerías: peas, diversos colectivos han Anti Liburudenda (Dos de Mayo, convertido una zona en decaden- 2), especializada en cultura urba- cia como la calle Dos de Mayo en na, comics, cine,...Litterae Mundi una de los barrios más dinámicos (Dos de Mayo, 16) librería inter- de la ciudad. La comunidad gay, cultural. con el apoyo de las instituciones municipales, así como el gran Restaurantes y bares: número de jóvenes artistas y di- En la calle Dos de Mayo y su en- señadores que se han instalado torno existe una atractiva y varia- en el barrio, son los responsables da oferta gastronómica, desde la de la transformación de lo que hoy cocina creativa del Ágape (Her- se denomina el Soho bilbaíno. Im- nani, 13) a la vegetariana del Bor- prescindible acercarse el primer ne (General Castillo, ) pasando sábado de mes, día en el que se por la cocina vasco-francesa de À celebra “Los sábados de Dos de Table (Dos de Mayo, 18). El barrio Mayo”, un mercado donde es po- de Bilbao La Vieja es uno de los sible encontrar auténticas gangas. más animados las noches de los Un recorrido por este enclave es- fines de semana: Burton Bar (Dos pecial de Bilbao La Vieja nos per- de Mayo, 16.), un local ideal para mite conocer un Bilbao secreto, tomar una copa y escuchar buena que no aparece en las guías, con música. Bullit Groove Club (Dos tiendas de moda, librerías, bares y de Mayo, 3), con una estética y restaurantes. decoración marcadamente 70’s, el Bullitt siempre ha sido un refe- Moda y diseño: rente de música y entretenimiento Jóvenes artistas y diseñadores en la noche bilbaína. Badulake han convertido la calle Dos de (Hernani, 10): diferentes ambien- Mayo en un referente de las últi- tes según la hora. Abierto desde mas tendencias. Un ejemplo es las 21:30 h. Recomendable ir a Traka Barraka (Dos de Mayo, 3 - partir de la una de la madrugada. Alameda de Urquijo, 59) con sus Café Nervión (La Naja, 7). Un clá- originales propuestas de ropa y sico. Excelentes desayunos y bo- complementos. También venta cadillos. Un lugar con un encanto por internet. El arte y el diseño se especial. dan la mano en Garabat (Dos de Mayo, 19), una Galería-tienda de ilustración, con exposiciones, ven- ta de originales y reproducciones, designer toys, libros...Taller del Soho (Dos de Mayo, 4. tienda- estudio creativo de decoración y diseño. Dspacio-laborARTorio Metro: (Dos de Mayo, 14) tienda-galería CASCO VIEJO de arte. Cerca de Dos de Mayo se (OLD QUARTER) encuentra el Studio Bilbao Boffi ABANDO (Muelle Merced, 4), con su mobi- liario contemporáneo de cocina y baño. E ID IB R R U IT

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MUE GRAN VÍA La Gran Vía de Don Diego López degustado sus exquisitas trufas de Haro es la principal arteria de chocolate y nata, los pasteles comercial y financiera de Bilbao. de arroz o los clásicos bollos de Como en todas las grandes - mantequilla. Para los aficionados nidas de las principales capitales a los cocktails, imprescindible un europeas, en la Gran Vía el lujo gin-tonic en el bar Jaime (Gran está presente a cada paso, tanto Vía, 86. Telf.: 944422492) o un en las tiendas de moda - Caroli- vermouth en La Antigua Cigarre- na Herrera, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, ría (Astarloa, 5. Telf.: 944248973). o la joyería Suarez-, como en el Sin desviarse mucho de la Gran señorío de alguno de sus edifi- Vía, una parada obligada en el bar cios -la sede del Banco Bilbao La Gallina Ciega (Máximo Agui- Vizcaya Argentaria, el Palacio de rre, 29), la coctelería de moda en la Diputación Foral de Bizkaia, el Bilbao. Hotel Carlton, la Casa Montero o el Palacio Chavarri. Con gran vida Unos datos imprescindibles para comercial, podemos encontrar los amantes de la historia: deno- tiendas de las marcas de ropa , minada Gran Vía de Don Diego así como galerías tan conocidas López de Haro en honor del fun- como El Corte Inglés o . Un dador de la ciudad, Don Diego paseo por esta emblemática calle López de Haro, Señor de Bizkaia. es ya de por sí un espectáculo, Fue diseñada en 1876 y tiene una por su bullicio durante todo el día, anchura de 50 metros y una lon- por la elegancia de los bilbaínos gitud de 1,5 kilómetros. Comienza y bilbaínas y por algunos rinco- su recorrido en la Plaza Circular y nes especiales que hacen que la finaliza en la Plaza del Sagrado experiencia resulte inolvidable. El Corazón. En la mitad de la calle se plan ideal es recorrer la calle en su encuentra la Plaza Elíptica o Pla- totalidad e ir descubriendo a cada za de Federico Moyúa, el centro paso sus innumerables atractivos. neurálgico del Ensanche bilbaíno. A un paso, en la limítrofe calle Er- cilla, los amantes del arte pueden disfrutar con “Las Meninas”, una serie de eculturas del artista Ma- nolo Valdés. Unas recomendaciones gastronómicas: para comer hay mucho y variado donde elegir, desde la alta cocina del restaurante Guria, a los pla- tos tradicionales de Metro Moyúa (Gran Via, 40. Telf.: 944249273. www.metromoyua.com) o Monterrey (Gran Via , 6. Telf.: Metro: 944248490). Reponer fuerzas, en ABANDO locales como La Viña del Ensan- MOYUA che o Lekeitio (Diputación,1. Telf.: INDAUTXU 94 4239240 / 944241641. www. SAN MAMÉS restaurantelekeitio.com). Para los más golosos, un helado en la hela- dería Alaska (Marqués del Puerto, 10. Telf.: 944159701) o una visita a la Pastelería Arrese (Gran Vía, 24. Telf.: 944234052. www.arre- se.biz), una institución en Bilbao desde 1852. Sería imperdonable abandonar la ciudad sin haber TR AV ES IA T TIB HUERTA IB OL S DE LA VILLA O I L A I TAN QUIN PASEO C AMPO VOLANTIN

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G A U R I A Ó Z E I T N O E U E E R U R I K A M A T D A E R EN G Q K L R A Q R A E A D E E O D JA B E D A L I R E E V R A L R L R R T A A L E R N L A E G M C A P L E O U E L A A E L U N A E E N E A U D Ó A J Museo Diocesano ID D IA L R ADO A R T D O T N S M O de Arte Sacro T C O N E A E C R V L VI E

L e Iglesia de U A B DO M I A R A A

J UA H la Encarnación B E D M L I E I E . N M NA I R V PS A A UELLE DE M ZA R A AR U R A X A I LAMANA N K C T U I E I S R X G T M A U N I E E A O O R R H A I L B A I ID R U Z N A I A A UE E E K S R G G L AV A P RI CA BE O U N D O I R D O N A I O E W R H R R H E E R I E R D P L É Z E V E A A LA P A O ID I C O R Z J R L O I D N O R P E U M O U O V Ñ L G A A O A A E IE D Q N G A S D L G IA R O N ISC C IA A N L C U C U N L É O I N A A R E R A S DA G I F C R C D N A O A I SA S U J Í L A L E TE D . V R R M R D S O S N A R A CO IS A L U I R C E L A P A M E A O M E R I AN T G A E S GR E O D G A G O R P NA D M MI A D E E I I I A L A D R A V C N L N S U E L D E E A R E A L Ñ D S A V R B O A Z T A A IAS E CONC R EPCIÓN E L A D N T G Z D Á R E E U E U O N A R R B V I D IG E R . A I M C JO F G O P DR I U C R S T G U E N O E S A Q O N T O RO O R R N C O O R U E E R Í R E A E P J D R A D C U S G E R I A A N D M Ó L L A O A A N I B N I L O O G A A R A L A R Z A J Z O I AMES C G C U O P O SAN M G EDA O A A M D O LAM A I M R D A D R R IN E IA A N K E M R A O C R C I HA N E D S E A A A J E L H A O IC L URI N L I A M F R L A A E R M A L O Z C IC A E A . IO ID Í N A Ñ S V V A R N IM A Z E M I G E E O G L E K ABAL R N A L O J N A DON M I O O A L OSTIA D IJ U D S U A A Q E E É R L U ÍA A A M D L I E L O R AM E N A L M N O A T L A D U A R AR E A M Í IV A A L A A O N J B U O R D N S Í I Ó A DEUST A A M E VIE O I T LD IJ Z S U A S R K A U D CANA C RQ A S Y S I U B E Ó A A T B A A I TELA D N H LD A D POS O A L IR I COM A G O DE B A AME O E Z N ANTIAG G L S R E A E S A A R V R A C O PE L A BE A I E U íA A OR BE U INOS IB Z G R ESP A A E CTO R L AL R DO O R A E Z CAZA E N A PI L A GE L L R AV A RUA E A . D S BA U N L N EL A MARTÍ M A FE R RR E S O A N Ó CA Í E LD R M G A R O L G íA N U I O U G L T I E S L U A Z A A G G E R A R B E U É N BE P R E LA R I G Ñ G O T E A A D U T O S E A S B O V O LA K R EN T O A N D I S IC A A D DEU N Y Z V A RIBE DE N . O S RA A A D AN S T N E EL AD O IZ R NK PA FE IÁ ZA BL RR N O OC DE A MUEL UCA RR LE ALFONSO CHURR AL IL ZO LA

DEO EVI A AVE MONT Z NIDA DE AN TE R PA CASCO VIEJO (OLD QUARTER) Bilbao’s old quarter, known as square hosts a market, with stalls the “Casco Viejo”, is a favourite selling birds, old coins, minerals, gathering place among native Bis- stamps, old books and all sorts cayans. Its churches, monuments of curios. The Arenal is one of and stately homes are witness to Bilbao’s recreational areas. One an intense commercial and cultu- of its highlights is the “Kiosko de ral life. A stroll through its narrow Música”, a bandstand with a café- streets and pretty squares reveals bar in the lower . Every Sun- the most authentic Bilbao, full day it is the venue for the concerts of singular nooks and crannies, performed by the Bilbao Municipal with long-standing establishments Band. The Arenal riverbank hosts coexisting alongside the modern, a busy flower market every Sun- cosmopolitan facet of Bilbao. To day. venture into the Old Quarter is to get lost in the heart of the city, Buildings: with its pedestrian streets, full of Arriaga theatre (Information in shops, bars, restaurants and his- Stages section). Bidebarrieta tory. An amble along Santa María library (Bidebarrieta, 4) one of street is highly recommended, Bilbao’s architectural gems. Pa- one of Bilbao’s most colourful, dis- lacio Ion (Pelota 10) is currently tinctive areas. When it comes to a centre with an immense cultural Fashion and Restaurants, several and social life. La Ribera Market, interesting recommendations can on the banks of the river Nervión, be made. Considered to be the largest indo- or public food market in Europe. Don’t miss: San Antón church and bridge Sombreros y Boinas Goros- are located right next to it, as is tiaga (Víctor 9) one of the oldest the Conde de Mirasol pedestrian and most characteristic shops bridge over the river. in Bilbao, this hat and beret em- porium has dressed the heads of the locals for over 150 years. Bar Los Fueros (Fueros 6) excellent grilled prawns. Turronería Hela- dería Ivañez (Correo 23) artisan ice-creams and traditional nougats since 1860. Alma de Cacao (Bi- debarrieta 9) a chocolate paradi- se. Cafés Panchito (Lotería, 3) takeaway coffees and beverages Metro: and also sales of teas, coffees and CASCO VIEJO accessories. (OLD QUARTER) Squares & places of interest: Bilbao’s Old Quarter is popularly known as Las Siete Calles (The Seven Streets) in reference to the city’s earliest streets dating back to the 14th century. La Plaza Nueva (New Square) is a favourite spot among Biscayans. Nowadays it is a lively commercial enclave, filled with fashion boutiques, bars and restaurants. When the wea- ther is fine, the square fills up with terraces. On Sunday morning the TR AV ES IA T TIB HUERTA IB OL S DE LA VILLA O I L A I TAN QUIN PASEO C AMPO VOLANTIN

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DEO EVI A AVE MONT Z NIDA DE AN TE R PA FROM CITY HALL TO THE EUSKALDUNA BRIDGE A favourite among visitors to Bil- sent in the artistic intervention of bao is the route along the banks of French artist Daniel Buren on the the river. Perfect on foot or cycling La Salve bridge, transforming its (free municipal bike rental) on both main vertical support into a grand sides of the river. Ideally, start out gateway into the Biscayan capital. at Paseo Campo de Volantín and Avenida Universidades and come Excursions: back along the Abandoibarra side Bilboats (Pantalan Pio Baroja, and the Paseo de Uribitarte walk. s/n) offers guided cultural tours Typically, you will cross paths with of the river by boat. Another inter- many other walkers, joggers and esting excursion opportunity is to runners. To take this walk is to head up to Artxanda mountain. immerse oneself in some of the Full of green open recreational best late 20th - early 21st century spaces and boasting spectacular architecture, where stately buil- views of the city. Highly recom- dings like the Bilbao City Hall or mended for a morning excursion, the prestigious Deusto University or to take lunch at one of the many rub shoulders with some of the traditional Basque restaurants in emblems of the new Bilbao, the the area. Get there by Artxanda Isozaki Atea twin towers, the Eus- Funicular Railway (Castaños, s/n), kalduna Conference Centre and not one-hundred metres from the Concert Hall, the Guggenheim Zubi Zuri bridge, on the Campo Museum, the Iberdrola Tower de Volantín Walk. or the Deusto University Li- brary, major works by outstanding contemporary architects: Arata Isozaki, Frank O. Ghery, Cesar Pelli or Rafael Moneo. Art, archi- tecture and leisure come together to create a universe that seduces both locals and visitors alike. Guggenheim and urban art: The Guggenheim splays its ten- tacles along the entire Uribitar- te Walk and into Abandoibarra. Several urban sculptures certify the importance of art in the new Bilbao: “Mama”, by Louise Bour- geois, located right behind the Metro: museum; “Puppy”, by Jeff Ko- ABANDO ons, a spectacular dog covered DEUSTO in flowers placed at the entran- ce to the Guggenheim; “The tall tree and the eye”, by Indian artist , placed in the nor- thern pond of the museum, beside the river and “Searching for Light IV”, by Eduardo Chillida, located between the Isozaki Atea twin towers. On the opposite side of the river, beside City Hall, we can find the sculpture entitled “Ovoid variant of the sphere’s inaction”, an impressionist work by basque artist . Art is also pre- 222