MAGAZINE FOR EXPLORERS AND LOVERS OF THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE

900 years young ISBN 978-3-9819717-4-3

EDITION 2020

2 Nominal price €3.50 Dear Readers

The year 2020 marks a proud milestone for Freiburg that gives us pause to take stock of the past, consider our ­present and look ahead to our future. Tradition and deep historical ties may be rooted in the city’s spirit, but Freiburg is “900 years young” at heart!

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Visible traces of history meld with a vibrant life in the here and now: Even though the clocks in the sunny southwest may have always run at a slightly different pace, time has by no means stood still here, which is evident in Freiburg wherever you look. The most beautiful spire in Christendom col- lides with the avant-garde architecture of a new university library, the tranquil activity on Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square) collides with the bus- tling atmosphere on Platz der Alten Synagoge (Old Synagogue Square) and a charming medieval and “Little Venice” flair collides with Freiburg’s lead- ing international role as a green city. As the warmest holiday spot in the tripoint area, where the borders of Germany, France and Switzerland con- verge, Freiburg combines an unbeatable climate with the best of all worlds and has leapt to the top of the most popular cities in Germany. As befits the anniversary year, this issue reveals just how well opposites go together here, where an appreciation of tradition pairs with a spirit of innovation, local pride with a cosmopolitan mindset and verve with an easygoing na- ture. Discover both the old and the new, a bustling city center and sleepy neighborhoods, a lively cultural scene and a way of life that you won’t find anywhere else: 900 years young!

Happy reading! With warm regards from

The FREIBURGER team Freiburg Wirtschaft Touristik und Messe GmbH & Co. KG

Freiburg – comfortably down-to-earth, pleasantly laid-back and culturally cosmopolitan in every way. Perhaps this is precisely why the city is equally beloved among visitors and FWTM / Baschi Bender locals as an extremely livable place with lots to experience. This is as true now as it has been in the past and especially this year, as Freiburg celebrates its 900th anniversary!

3 1 Contents You may have spotted the bright red cross on the cover of our magazine: Perhaps it’s there to reflect the city’s coat of arms? Or maybe it’s an X to mark the spot? Is it there to catch the eye or make a statement? Or maybe it’s all of these things? We think that it’s the ideal symbol for 21st-century Freiburg because it can mean so many different things at once: history and fresh starts, the familiar and the unknown, local hospi- tality and scathing defiance. There are many sides to Freiburg, from tiny alleyways to soaring towers. Join us on our tour of discovery! FWTM / Schwerer

34

The sound of the city: anything but ordinary.

Cultural Life

34 Play it again, buddy Lothar Jung 38

Music bars as cultural heritage FWTM / Antal

22 38 Jazz in Freiburg Interview with Michael Musiol from Jazzhaus On skis in the winter and on wheels 40 Read on, Freiburg in the summer – the surrounding Plenty of material for some good stories countryside entices with its culture, cuisine and fun. 42 A day on Freiburg’s balcony Neighborhood profile of Herdern FWTM / Schoenen 28

An Amble Through Freiburg Escaping the 5 I see something you don’t see Daily Grind (Hi)stories from the underground

10 900 years young 22 Out and about among the vines Far more than just a weekend of festivities An outing around Tuniberg 42 FWTM / Spiegelhalter · 14 Bargain hunters 28 Cityscape, landscape, snowscape, escape Exploring Freiburg’s flea markets and Through the Black Forest on skis ­second-hand stores Herdern – a district of many faces 16 Still chiming, loud and clear “Hosanna” – Freiburg’s ringing marvel across the ages

2 3 I see something you don’t see –01 (HI)STORIES FROM THE UNDERGROUND –

An Amble A stroll through Freiburg’s city center reveals interesting remnants of bygone eras in many places. Actually appreci- ating them as such and listening to stories about the city’s Through history transforms an amble through the alleyways into a multilayered trip through time. Two historical remains typi­cal of Freiburg and the findings of archeological re- search lead us back to the beginnings of the city’s develop- Freiburg ment – and right on down into the underworld.

By: Ute Battig Hotel & Restaurant zum Roten Bären GmbH Hotel & Restaurant zum Roten Bären

5 AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG

Shortly after it was founded in the 12th century, Freiburg underwent sweeping phases of renovation. 900 years young The city was, in a sense, one large construction site. Over the centuries, many well- After analyzing archeological sources, experts regard known women and men have come it as fact that, in those days, large sections of the city to the university city in the Breis­ center were raised up to three meters by piling up gau region and left their marks. gravel. This served to increase the slope and thereby the range of the raw water system at the time – giving We took a look at their stories. rise to Freiburg’s Bächle, or the little streams that flow through the city – ensuring the supply of the core city with its growing suburbs.

In the course of this, what had formerly been a build- ing’s ground floor back then became a basement, while the existing basement became a subbasement. The original entrance and the spaces people lived in essen- The founder tially moved down one floor, which meant that there Archduke Albrecht VI of Austria founds were two floors below ground. Nowadays, they pro- the University of Freiburg in 1457. vide valuable information about the development of One of his objectives for doing so the city’s buildings and how old they are. A trip back is to encourage people to move to in time to the Middle Ages is something you can expe- Freiburg, a highly indebted city at the rience quite vividly in the subbasement of the city ar- Researchers assume that Freiburg’s Bächle time in the territory of Further Austria. chive on Grünwälderstrasse, where visitors can still see (canals) have been around since before 1120 the windows and doors of the former structure, which and that they were laid out systematically, are now about 2.50 meters below street level. Another presumably in connection with the expansion subbasement that is both accessible and carefully re- of the city walls. The first written mention of stored can be found in the Hotel Zum Roten Bären 1 Oberlinden, which is considered to be Germany’s old- the Bächle is in a document by the Dominican est inn. Bread soup and stables have long since become order from the year 1246. things of the past here, leaving behind a tasteful and The explosionist dignified atmosphere. The hotel now attracts guests During alchemical experiments in with its modern flair and a touch of extravagance. Both 1359, Franciscan monk Berthold A landmark’s changing function of the subbasements mentioned in this article have un- Schwarz grinds together saltpeter, fortunately not yet been made accessible to the public From providing raw water for everyday use and wa- ­sulfur and charcoal, inventing gunpow- at set times. However, visitations are possible by sched- ter for fighting fires to surface drainage and, yes, even der in the process, as the legend goes. uling an appointment in advance and for hotel guests. disposing of street waste, the Bächle played a criti- It is uncertain if the story is true, but In addition, the Uniseum – or the museum of the Uni- cal function for a long time. Like the Gewerbebach a statue on top of the fountain on versity of Freiburg on Bertoldstrasse 2 – provides ac- stream on Gerberau street, which, to this day, supplies Rathausplatz (Town Hall Square) and cess to a late medieval basement and the stories and the water from the Dreisam River into the system of a stained-glass window in the Johan- neskirche (Church of St. John) like to other lore that relate to it. small canals, the Bächle may not necessarily be one of perpetuate it anyway. the city’s most obvious attractions at first glance, but A glimpse into the subbasement of the Hotel they certainly have some of the richest history. Popu- Zum Roten Bären, where parts of the building lation growth and technological advancements mean- from the High Middle Ages are still preserved. while made it necessary to find new solutions. For According to a brief history of the hotel, these safety reasons, the watercourses were relocated in the

remains enable visitors to imagine what it might Right: FWTM / Escher · wikimedia commons mid-19th century first from the middle to the edge of have looked like here at the time the city was the street and redirected into pipes, in some cases. founded. With the introduction of modern sewer and drainage systems, the Bächle lost their original importance to The trailblazer the city’s inhabitants. After all this, the canals continue­ In Freiburg in 1900, Mathilde Wagner­ to play an important role in city planning even now- is Germany’s first female student adays, both as a traditional landmark and, in light of to gain access to the university, rising urban temperatures, as a sustainable way of im- where she receives her doctorate proving the microclimate. » in medicine. In 2014, the University­ of Freiburg began awarding the Mathilde Wagner Prize each year to Hotel & Restaurant zum Roten Bären GmbH Left: Hotel & Restaurant zum Roten Bären ­outstanding women scientists in the field of medicine.

6 7 AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG Past and present Stadtgarten Looking for traces …

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o 1 l se h ras 4 c t S During the Middle Ages, Freiburg ds Swabian Gate Life in shared accommodations in the 16th century: One of many buildings that are ol rt 7 Augustinerplatz e sse B rstra was long a gem-cutting hub. Be- älde interesting from the perspective of architectural history is the late Gothic “Haus zum Grünw 3 ginning in the 15th century, the pre- Nie Walfisch” (the Whale House) . This is where Erasmus of Rotterdam lived after flee- me nss tra u sse ra cious stones were cut and polished be ing from Basel. The scribe and namesake of today’s Erasmus study-abroad program Old er Synagogue e G ss Theatre Square tra Martin‘s Gate did not remain here for very long, however. Due to disputes over rent and disagree- on large waterwheels, powered by ns 8 we Lö University ments with housemates, he left the magnificent building after two years and moved water from the Gewerbekanal 8 . KG I–IV se into a private abode at Schiffstrasse 7. Today, the bright red building belongs to the The visionary women thinkers ras tst old mb Like Hannah Arendt, who studies UB Hu savings bank Sparkasse, which means that it is partially accessible to the public. philosophy in 1926 with Edmund t ark lzm Münsterplatz Husserl, many brilliant and self-con- Ho se Rempartstras (Cathedral Square) fident women start flocking to 100 m Freiburg beginning in 1900. The freiburg.archeology During the Middle Ages, the mar- ket was located on the “Grosse university circles turn into one of Even though Freiburg is one of the most ac- concerning the city history of Freiburg. Gass,” which is Kaiser-­Joseph- the hotbeds of the women’s move- tive regions in the state of Baden-Wurttem- “Written sources offer little insight. Far Strasse today. Around the Cathe- ment in Germany. berg when it comes to medieval archeology more answers await discovery below- dral, where nowadays you will find and has been performing high-caliber sci- ground. Archeological findings provide a the lively hustle and bustle of the History up close entific research here for some 200 years, fragmented account of earlier periods. By farmer’s market 9 the whole there has never been a comprehensive ex- piecing together many different clues, we week long, was the site of the 1 Hotel “Zum Roten Bären”, Oberlinden 30 hibition on where those findings currently end up with a complex picture of the past,” town cemetery into the 16th century. www.roter-baeren.de stand. Over 300 excavations have been car- states the exhibition’s announcement. With The spot later served as a place ried out in and around the city and approx- this promise in mind, the curators of the 2 Uniseum Freiburg The University of Freiburg’s museum where people would convene and imately 15 percent of the entire area has exhibition at the Augustinermuseum, Mu- Bertoldstrasse 17 www.uniseum.uni-freiburg.de hold court proceedings. been archeologically cataloged. seum für Stadtgeschichte (Municipal Histo- 4 Augustinermuseum, Augustinerplatz As part of an exhibition called freiburg.ar- ry Museum) and Ärchäologisches Museum 5 Museum für Stadtgeschichte im historischen Wentzingerhaus (Museum of The spy cheology, the Städtische Museen Freiburg Colombischlössle (Colombischlössle Arche- Municipal History in the historic Wentzingerhaus), Münsterplatz 30 Dušan “Dusko” Popov comes to (Municipal Museums of Freiburg), togeth- ological Museum) get the discovered ob- 6 Archäologisches Museum Colombischlössle (Colombischlössle Archeo­ All-rounder Freiburg in 1935 to study law. In  logical Museum), Rotteckring er with the Landesamt für Denkmalpflege jects to talk. The pieces make the lives and Haus “Zur schwarzen Katz” (House ­addition to his reputation as a lady-­ www.freiburg.de/museen Baden-Württemberg (the State Office for settings of people in earlier periods acces- of the Black Cat) 10 at Konvikt- killer, it is his role in particular as the Preservation of Historic Monuments sible in a variety of ways for all age groups strasse 39 is the place where the 7 Stadtarchiv Freiburg (Freiburg City Archive),  Gründwälderstrasse 15 a double agent during the Second  and Buildings), is offering an in-depth look and show that history, when cleverly dust- executioner called home. The exe- www.freiburg.de/stadtarchiv World War that made him a real-life for the first time at archeological research ed off, can be incredibly fun. × cutioner wore many hats and kept inspiration for Ian Fleming’s More information: Freiburg “water city” map quite busy in his other roles as tor- fictional agent, James Bond. www.wasserstadtplan-freiburg.akwasser.de turer, privy cleaner, brothel operator and doctor for ordinary people.

8 9 CITY ANNIVERSARY 2020

It’s not every day you get a chance to celebrate, so when a milestone anniversary comes around, how to honor it in style becomes the million-dollar question. Expectations run high; after all, the plans should be something special, something exciting, something that everyone will remember and – ideally – something that hasn’t been done before. The Freiburg city council be- gan mulling over such considerations well in advance and came up with the idea to make the city’s milestone anniversary a celebration of, with and for the peop­ le of Freiburg. In other words, the council sought to mobilize institutions, organizations and associations, along with the entire community, to take part in shap- ing the anniversary year by having them contribute their own ideas and projects. The response to this in- vitation was overwhelming, exceeding all expectations and it showed once more how closely the inhabitants of Freiburg identify with their city. By the end of Septem- ber 2018, some 500 applications had been submitted, from which the project committee overseeing the city’s anniversary ultimately selected more than 200 proj- ects. These projects were then divided into six thematic 900 clusters to create a more streamlined focus. The result- ing gala program is a reflection of the colorful diver- sity that you find in Freiburg’s social and cultural life. It boasts an impressively filled lineup of events of all years sizes throughout the city, its districts and quarters.

Creating appeal through a wide range of themes

Freiburg’s many facets, Freiburg remembers, Freiburg young wants to know, Freiburg plays on, Freiburg connects “We called on the people of and Freiburg thinks about the future: The scope of the Far more than just a our city to get involved and the six thematic clusters ensures a multifaceted range of excitement and extent of their events for citizens, visitors and guests from all walks of life, of every age and with various interests. Through- weekend of festivities response has been thrilling.” out the year, Freiburg’s anniversary will be celebrated Ulrich von Kirchbach, Deputy Mayor in various places and locations and the lineup covers practically all aspects of communal experience in the One special anniversary, one big idea, one overwhelming show of city. Whether it’s Freiburg’s paranormal phenomena or the Sound of the City, Night of the Fools, Sports in commitment: A dazzling array of events to be held across Freiburg and its the Park, Basketball Europe Minifestival, World Press ­surroundings this year is a testament to what you can achieve and make Photo Exhibition, or a 365-day quiz, anyone who stays possible by calling on all citizens to take part in shaping the celebrations in Freiburg during the anniversary year won’t have to to mark the 900th anniversary of their city. Freiburg 2020 – 900 years look hard to find lots of excitement and variety. From the very beginning, ensuring conscious engagement young is the ultimate invitation to one huge, all-year event! with the past, the present and the future has been a key priority for the organizers, because this trajectory of By: Ute Battig development also informs the widely appreciated way

pexels.com / Fröken Fokus of life here and the path from the historic city of the House of Zähringen to a dynamic site of research and scholarship. »

10 11 CITY ANNIVERSARY 2020 Q&A: My favorite spots

“Freiburg is going to present itself as an open, diverse and ­innovative city. The city can ­celebrate its 900 years with pride and confidence.”

Martin W.W. Horn, Lord Mayor

Laura Kiefer Laura Kiefer is serving as an anniversary ambassador for the special milestone year. For her day job, she works as a bus and tram driver for the municipal transport company Freiburger Verkehrs 12 of 200 AG (VAG), which she enjoys immensely. event highlights during She loves driving her routes early in the the anniversary year morning and seeing how the day begins to dawn and the city comes to life. January 9– 29 World Press Photo Exhibition I was born and raised in Freiburg and Sparkasse From a light art festival to a ping-pong event, the range of I did my vocational training here as Committed figures – yesterday and today February 22 Night of the Fools Old Town events is as diverse as the people of the city themselves. well. Both my personal and profes- The face of a city is always shaped by the people who March 20–29 Cathedral Mapping sional lives are closely tied to the city. live there and especially by those figures who make a Münsterplatz, south side I am fortunate to be able to work for mark lasting well beyond their lifetime. Konrad von April 25–26 MTB Enduro Race Freiburg, so to speak and to come into Zähringen laid the foundation by granting the right to May–October Penal(ty) area / Sidelined and contact with a wide range of people A highlight, month after month hold a market in 1120; successful entrepreneurs such serving time in Freiburg and districts, which shows me prac- as Bartholomä Herder, Hermann Marinrad Poppen Photo exhibition at the With exhibitions, lectures and concerts featuring a va- tically every day just how diverse the and Ludwig “Louis” Ganther created lasting business- ­correctional facility riety of different musical styles, the anniversary year city is. Beer gardens, wine festivals, es and jobs; and the contributions of philosophers, art- promises a steady stream of great moments and a new the Zelt-Musik-Festival (Tent Music June 20 A Midsummer Night’s Table ists and politicians such as Johann Christian Wentzing- highlight, month after month. The pinnacle will be the Festival), Münsterplatz (Cathedral A 900-meter table welcomes Square) and the Münsterwurst sau- er and Edith Stein, Constantin Fehrenbach and Eugen one and all to talk and celebrate official gala weekend from July 10–14, 2020, which will sage – I like this atmosphere. On the Keidel to social interaction and cohesion have not been together. feature a virtually seamless chain of nonstop events. forgotten. Through their efforts, they have all made the During this five-day flood of events in the city center, weekend, I meet up with friends in July 10–14 Main gala weekend city what it is today. With that in mind, the search for we will witness cultural abundance and civic creativity the Old Town’s “Bermuda Triangle” August 22–23 FreiRäume (Open Spaces) nightlife district, while after a long people who have a hand in shaping life in the city today on full display. Bands will be sharing the microphone Performances, readings, music day, I like to get some fresh air by in any number of different ways – whether as auxiliary on at least five stages, while the SWR Symphony Or- and dance in various open spaces taking a walk along the Dreisam, at bishops or university directors, as singers, tram drivers, chestra, the Philharmonic Orchestra and the Freiburg throughout the city Waldsee, or at Schlossberg. In honor or Bächle cleaners – was set in motion for the anniver- Baroque Orchestra are scheduled to perform on Mün- of Freiburg’s anniversary, I hope as sary. These people will be promoting Freiburg’s mile- September 12 Hosanna – the sonic experience sterplatz (Cathedral Square). The 14th of July, on many people as possible come togeth- stone as anniversary ambassadors and using their own of 2020 the other hand, will be dedicated to the cross-border er in the city and celebrate as one. standing and contacts to draw attention to Freiburg October 10 SoundCity friendship with la grande nation. To mark France’s na- and to spread the word about the jubilee year beyond One ticket, one night of live music tional holiday, the Rotteckring festival mile will trans- the city’s borders. and DJs in 20 locations form into a boulevard typical of the country, where art, Auditorium Minimum November 5–7 Freilicht (Painting on Air) culture and culinary delights of our western neigh- Löwenstrasse 7  A city transforms in the light Right: Juli Richter bor will be the focus. In the end, there’s really only one thing left to say: come visit Freiburg in 2020 – there’s December 21 900 years young – closing event Hausbrauerei Feierling  something for everyone! × with the Pan.Optikum Action Gerberau 46 Theater www.feierling.de

All projects, events and information relating to the city’s milestone anniversary are available online at: Gaststätte Waldsee www.visit.freiburg.de/en/  Waldseestrasse 84 / Fionn Grosse Left: City of Freiburg city-anniversary www.waldsee-freiburg.de

12 13 AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG Happenstance and haggling Searching for something You enjoy drifting along and getting inspired specific­ by what you see. You can’t really say beforehand what you need, but surely there’s some wiggle Be it the ’79 bootleg version of this obscure funk room to come down on the price, right? band from Lapland, this one designer armchair (in red!) at a price mere mortals can afford, or something else, you know exactly what you want! Frollein flea market You’ll find professionals at these stores who can The flea market by girls and women for all those help you find what you’re looking for. who love vintage clothes. It is organized by the ­Badische Zeitung newspaper and takes place sev- eral times a year at various locations. Flight 13 Records www.instagram.com/frolleinflohmarkt A record store as if straight out of a film, featuring a huge selection, a cozy corner for listening to music Habsburgerstrasse and occasionally a live concert. The store will rustle flea market up anything not in stock. Stühlingerstrasse 15, www.flight13.com Flea market as street fair or street fair with a flea market? Either way, the stands that go up in late June in the Herdern district make up the biggest Mono Tonträger flea market. To that end, one of Freiburg’s main Freiburg’s oldest record store, which enjoys a lovely traffic arteries and several side streets are closed location and a café right next door where you can sit off, becoming the site for music stages, food stands outside. It offers a wide selection, from heavy metal and plenty of hoopla. and alternative to jazz. Gartenstrasse 11, www.habsburgerstrasse.de www.mono-tontraeger.de

Bährle flea market Kunzenhof20 Rummage to your heart’s content in a relaxed A little farther afield, but worth a trip. The store ­atmosphere and beautiful setting. ­specializes in vintage and second-hand furnishings Usually every third Saturday in the month, you will from well-known designers such as Eames, Panton, find children haggling with fathers over a good and ­Jacobsen. Engesserstrasse 3, www.kunzenhof20.de Lego set or old ladies bargaining with old men over an heirloom tea service at the Alter Wiehrebahnhof (Old Wiehre Train Station). The flea market is held from March/April to October/November, depending Antik-Lager Freiburg on sun and temperature. You will find both antique and modern furnishings http://wiehre.norma.uberspace.de in the former machine shop on the “Grethergelände” Exploring Freiburg’s flea markets factory grounds in the Sedan district. The place has and second-hand stores its own workshop. Adlerstrasse 12, Vauban fall flea market www.antiklager-freiburg.de It’s true, Freiburg doesn’t have London’s Hyde Park. And the This is the spring or fall flea market on Alfred- Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen in Paris isn’t exactly around the Döblin-Platz in the southern part of Freiburg, held corner. Instead, a number of charming flea markets capture the between the former barracks in the Vauban ­district. S’Einlädele essence of Freiburg: close and convenient, approachable, homey The event is an informal gathering beneath large An attractive, non-profit second-hand store that and the opposite of overwhelming. There is plenty of good rum- plane trees. www.quartiersarbeit-vauban.de sells rarities, antiques, jewelry, household goods, Bargain clothes, shoes, toys, postcards, CDs, pictures, maging fun for families, connoisseurs and those who just want to have a look. Most flea markets take place outdoors – plenty of sun- and much more. shine guaranteed. Stühlinger family flea market Guntramstrasse 58, www.seinlaedele.de hunters on Kirchplatz Freiburg’s flea markets were born primarily out of citizens’ and The square around Herz-Jesu-Kirche (Sacred Heart neighborhood initiatives, which is reflected in their names, such as Church) serves as the heart and venue for several Manuela Wolber the flea market on Kirchplatz in Stühlinger, the Bährle flea market events in the Stühlinger district. One of them is the Second Hand in Wiehre or the Habsburger flea market in Herdern. There is a family flea market, which takes place in the spring Linens and clothing from approximately 1880 to 1960, ­variety of theme-based and small flea markets as well. and fall on the large lawn. Imagine a ­friendly, open- such as handwoven linen tablecloths, tea and hand air version of eBay. towels, blouses, top hats and home accessories. unsplash.com / Rabie Madaci

www.familienzentrum-klara.de Klarastrasse 31, www.antikesfreiburg.de

14 15 AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG

It’s Friday at 11 a.m. on Münster- platz. The heavy chiming of bells mixes with the buzzing din of voices and noise from the farmers mar- ket. Hosanna – the much-noted voice of Freiburg, star among the Cathe­dral’s bells and ringing ­marvel across the ages – does the ­honors and, for a brief while, a sense of something sacred pervades the square and perfumes the air with the faint scent of incense.

To admire the solo artist among the Cathedral’s 19 bells, all it takes is a little workout. But the reward for climbing the 242 steps that begin directly behind the steeple entrance at the side of the Cathedral is ab- solutely worth the effort. Small embrasures pierce the darkness on the spiral staircase and reveal how far you have climbed. Shortly before you reach the watch- man’s room, the glass wall that continues on provides a glimpse at the never-ending maintenance work on the wooden framework. Eighty percent of the wood- en structure is still from the original from the 13th century. The long, thick beams carved out of silver fir are a feast for the eyes and bear witness to a kind of craftsmanship seldom seen in the Middle Ages. Once you have arrived in the watchman’s room, your gaze is arrested by the old exposed clockwork, still intact and shimmering in hues of gold and silver. The exten- “Hosanna” – Freiburg’s ringing marvel across sive use of wood in warm tones up here creates an al- the ages most homey atmosphere. Like any good room should, it invites visitors to enter and immerse themselves in the books and descriptions of the Freiburg Cathedral. Before you get the notion to order some coffee and cake and indulge a twinge of envy of the watchman’s Still chiming, workstation, the sound of bells chiming nearby and the barely discernible swaying of the ground beneath your feet snaps you back to the present. Swaying? In an ­assemblage of wooden struts rising up 21 meters loud and clear into the sky? Yes. In fact, it is supposed to sway. That’s because the entire belfry stands on its own; it isn’t at- tached to the walls, thereby preventing the vibrations from the bells from being transmitted to the walls. For By: Jürgen Uhl some time now, a light installation in the gap between the woodwork and the masonry has been making it easy to see that the tower is, indeed, not attached. » Jürgen Uhl Jürgen

16 17 AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG

From here, it’s a fee of 4 euros for an adult and another 33 steps to reach the belfry. The bells named Maria and Josef have just struck a quarter hour. They didn’t swing to do so; rather, they were struck by a hammer to make them chime. The bells actually don’t swing all the time. Besides on Sundays, Maria and Josef swing, for exam- ple, only at 6 a.m., 12 p.m. and 6 p.m. The Christ bell swings even more infrequently. Measuring more than two meters in diameter and weighing almost sev- en metric tons, the biggest and heaviest bronze bell in the ensemble rings out with a strike note of G only on high holidays such as Christmas, for ordinations of priests and for masses held by the archbishop himself.

But since size isn’t everything, as everyone knows, Hosanna is and remains the principal bell. Despite being “only” the third-heaviest bell with a weight of more than three metric tons, Hosanna is certainly the prettiest of the bunch, thanks to its sugarloaf shape, its wooden yoke featuring an extraordinarily elab- orate design and its artistic ornamentation. Hosan- na is one of the most prominent and important bells from the 13th century in Europe. Its unknown cre- ator ended up casting what would prove to be a faith- ful ally to the people of Freiburg, especially in times Perched at a height of 43 meters, the watchman’s of crisis, as Hosanna would call out not only during room not only offers an incredible view over prayers, but also raise the alarm when a fire had bro- the rooftops of the Old Town through windows ken out or during times of war. The fact that Hosan- adorned with geraniums, but it also serves as na has survived the centuries without sustaining sig- Right: designconcepts / Jürgen Gocke the information center and entry point to the bell nificant damage is, apart from divine protection, due ­tower and the platform of the west tower. to the actions of the people of Freiburg themselves. Many records attest to Freiburg’s deep and abiding Jürgen Uhl Left: Jürgen attachment to the bell. Time and again, this fidelity During peak periods, up to 900 visitors a day make the Tower and belfry saved the bell from being melted down or looted by en- climb to admire and, albeit rather seldomly, hear the Summer opening hours: emies. Several times, significant sums of ransom were bell. The number 900 not only provides a good transi- Monday–Saturday paid and more than a few golden chalices were giv- tion at this juncture, but is also a great reason to cele- 9:30 a.m. – 4:45 p.m. en to the occupying forces in exchange for Hosanna. brate for a whole year. As part of the 900th anniversary Sunday and holidays The bell even survived both world wars unscathed of the city, 900 musicians will make Münsterplatz re- 1 p.m.–5 p.m. and, unlike some of its adjacent contemporaries, was sound in honor of Hosanna in September 2020 in a very Adults €4, senior citizens €3, not melted down during those dark times. As a result, special sonic experience. students €2, children up to the Hosanna has also become a commemorative bell that The 21-meter wooden Already half a year before this event, the Freiburg age of 12 €1 / Family ticket: €10 chimes every year as a reminder of the bombing of belfry stands on its own; Cathedral is going to be the focus of the festi­ (2 adults and unlimited number Freiburg on November 27, 1944. vities, when in March the entire facade will be of children/teenagers–up to the it isn’t attached to the age of 18) illuminated with a projection featuring the city’s 900- walls, thereby prevent- year history and that of the Cathedral’s construction. www.freiburgermuenster.info ing the vibrations from the bells from being Dates and information: Hosanna chimes every Thurs- www.visit.freiburg.de/en/city-anniversary × day, 7:15 p.m., every Friday at transmitted to the walls. 11 a.m. and on November 27 around 8 p.m.

18 19 Good finds Made in Freiburg

Maximum blade sharpness, mini- Chests of drawers, tables fash- Fair-trade coffee from Nicaragua, mum material abrasion, exclusive ioned from suitcases, seating and produced by the co-op of small design, easiest handling – made in other nice pieces: The creators of farmers called La Providencia Freiburg. The HORL rolling knife Stückgut, or “piece goods,” give from Freiburg’s sister city Wiwilí, sharpener – a revelation for any- worn-out objects a new purpose as well as the Cosatin/Tierra Nue- one who appreciates perfect and, with a little luck, a new home va co-op from the Boaco region. kitchen utensils shortly thereafter. 02– ESCAPING THE DAILY GRIND – FREINICA HORL 1993 Stückgut Möbel-Manufaktur Weltladen Freiburg, Gerberau 12 www.horl-1993.de Schwarzwaldstrasse 43 www.freinica.de www.stueckgut-manufaktur.de Little escapes from it all Right: FWTM / Joos eft: © Provider L

Spreads, sauces and chutneys, vin- The anniversary edition of “Kleiner Streetwear made from 85% egars, syrups and mustards – Greif” (Little Griffon) with a bitter, ­organic cotton featuring casual all made by hand from handpicked hoppy tang from Ganter. For every­ prints and high standards when it ingredients without any artificial bottle of both the anniversary comes to social and environmental additives using refined recipes and “regular” versions of “Kleiner sustainability. Most pieces printed­ and packaged with love. Greif” sold, Ganter will be giving right on site by the creators­ 10 cents to the celebration of themselves. Freiburg’s 900th anniversary. From swimming in the lake to skiing on the trails – sounds far-fetched, but it is abso- hakuna-matata lutely possible to do in Freiburg in the spring. If this combo is too extreme for you, fear Blackforest Apparel Feinkost-Manufaktur not, because the mountains and valleys around the city offer an expansive panoramic  South side of the farmers market Der Kleine Greif Die Nische around the Cathedral Ganter Brewery  Oberlinden 8 backdrop to a wide range of different activities and experiences. www.hakuma.net www.ganter.com www.blackforestapparel.de

20 21 ESCAPING THE DAILY GRIND Pure pleasure­

Tuniberg following the

Bottom: FWTM / Antal changing seasons

Dieter Kenz / Taking advantage of the chance to celebrate­ Wine is a social lubricant, so it Left: Adobe Stock comes as no surprise that an out- door festival, wine festival, or Zwie- belkuchen (onion tart) festival is being held somewhere on Tuniberg almost every weekend. Things really reach fever pitch between May and September, when everything is in blossom and growing.

Educational walk Anyone looking to learn a little more about viticulture and the various grapes grown on Tuniberg “in pass- ing,” as it were, can do so on their own by taking a walk down the educational wine trail in Opfingen. The path leads visitors through the vines as they learn more about the grapes and their culti- vation while enjoying time outdoors.

Tickling the nerves instead of the

Opfingen, Waltershofen, Munzingen, Tiengen – in taste buds On the route between Freiburg these charming, pastoral districts of Freiburg, you will and Opfingen, a corn maze 1 and discover a soothing change of pace where life large- Out and about 2 ­aerial adventure park are popular ly takes place in and among the vines. The landscape stops that offer a different kind is marked by vineyards as well as asparagus and corn of adrenaline­ rush. fields. From the heights of Kapellenberg, you can en- among the vines www.maisfeld-opfingen.de joy panoramic views of the scenery that extend all the www.waldseilgarten-freiburg.de way to the Vosges. It provides the perfect backdrop An outing around Tuniberg for long walks and bike rides with delightful pit stops along the way. Excellent establishments form a vir- tually seamless chain on either side of the path. Be- Swimming By: Ute Battig yond well-run restaurants and inns, you will discov- switch-up er seasonal wine taverns typical of the region known Quarry lake or fancy wellness Seasonal wine taverns called Straussen, wineries and vintner co- as Straussenwirtschaften, where you can enjoy a glass fun – anyone looking to top off a bike ops – Freiburg’s Tuniberg communities are abundantly blessed by of traditional, homemade wine. Anyone with an inter- tour with a dip can do so by jumping est in the cultivation of fruit and viticulture will have nature and dripping in sunshine. This is reflected in a distinctive into the lake Opfinger See 3 or get- many opportunities here to talk with the producers ting a warming bubble massage at culture of epicurean delights and a soothing laid-back attitude. themselves and learn lots about the climate, soils and KEIDEL Mineral-Thermalbad.­ 4 Now that’s the good life! growing practices. » www.keideltherme.de

22 23 ESCAPING THE DAILY GRIND

A good way to discover both the nature and culture on Tuniberg is on a bicycle. Rental bikes are avail- able from the bicycle station locat- In southern Baden, asparagus is up on hearty food supplies for your bike ed at Freiburg central station or via traditionally served with Kratzete, ride at Hassler’s Hofladen, which is open the citywide rental service frelo.

on Fridays and Saturdays. For those who www.freiburgbikes.de or finely torn strips of pancake, www.frelo-freiburg.de although you will find asparagus don’t want to stop, continue on through the town on the Freiburger Landstrasse served with potatoes and hollan- (Freiburg highway) and follow it to the left daise or a vinaigrette on the menu between pastures and fields until you reach in most cases, too. the next destination: Munzingen. (Erentrudis Chapel) or turn right towards Christian Wentzinger from Freiburg. This the Höhenweg, which leads either to Got- is only mentioned here as an aside. We Munzingen is famous for its lovely tenheim or Merdingen. We decide to skip decide to sit down at the restaurant Die 17th-century chapel, a superb golf course this undoubtedly rewarding detour and Sonne to make a pit stop and briefly take

and a renowned hotel with a long tradition ride instead across the plain, through the stock of our morale and motivation. At this

located in the center of town. Visitors here communities of Nieder- and Oberrimsin- point, we can either make another detour Four in one go – a Tour de Tuniberg will also find any number of inns and win- gen, which belong to Breisach and on via Waltershofen or take the direct route Tuniberg is heaven on earth for cyclists and, eries, plus a well-known biodynamic De- around the mountain by turning right at to Opfingen. Some of the arguments in fa- thanks to its extensive network of trails, of- meter farm. Kapellenberg can be seen here the gravel works towards Merdingen. vor of Waltershofen are the seasonal tavern

fers routes for every level of difficulty. To- rising up lengthwise at the southern tip of Ralf Kilian Scheunen-Strausse and the Zum Adler inn, / day, it’s going to be a beautiful flat route Tuniberg in an impressive profile and its Merdingen boasts impressive half-tim- one of the oldest buildings in the area. But that less experienced riders can easily han- terraces promise spectacular views. If you bered buildings and a parish church in the sun, which is already getting low and dle, while leaving open the option of much aren’t winded or afraid of the uphill climb, the late baroque style. It was built by Jo- our somewhat tired legs convince us to go more challenging variations for ambitious turn off at this point in front of the park- hann Kaspar Bagnato, one of the most fa- with the alternative, so we take the short- cyclists. The bike ride begins in Freiburg’s and-ride parking lot from St.-Erentru- mous baroque architects of the 18th cen- cut. After making the steep ascent upon

city center; from there, the route first heads dis-Strasse onto Windhäuslegasse and pass Right: FWTM / Antal · VAG tury in southwestern German lands. The leaving the town, we really get rolling in towards Haid industrial park and then past modern single-family homes before end- altars and pulpit are the work of sculp- a spirited downhill ride and then take the the forest on the right to Tiengen. If you al- ing up right among the vines after a steep tor Joseph Anton Feuchtmayer, the ceil- right turn Wippertskirch – clearly marked ready feel like a little breather after these left turn. Once you have reached the in- ing frescoes and altarpieces were created by a bus stop – in the direction of Opfingen. first 10 kilometers, take a break on the ter- tersection back on level ground again, you by Franz Joseph Spiegler and the image of » Left: FWTM / Antal race of Hotel-Restaurant Tuniberg or stock can turn left to go to the Erentrudiskapelle Mary above the west portal is by Johann

24 25 ESCAPING THE DAILY GRIND Not to be confused with “ostriches,” which share the same name in German, Straussen are small, seasonal taverns,

Umkirch where proprietors serve goods they have Queen-Auguste- Victoria-Park produced themselves. You can identify these establishments by looking for a decorated thatch broom on the side of 10 the road or in front of a door. 11 Waltershofen

Merdingen

6 Mundenhof animal and nature St. Nikolaus ­adventure park

N Observation tower

Lake Opfinger See

12 Opfingen 3 13

2 1 7

A5 City center approx. 5 km → A tour of Baden cuisine in MOOSWALD Freiburg’s rural districts 5 Tiengen The asparagus strongholds of Tiengen, Munzingen, Walters­ Niederrimsingen hofen and Opfingen are well worth a visit with many excellent 8 TUNIBERG 4 FR-Haid The narrow access road leads past an establishments that serve up a cozy atmosphere and great equestrian center on the right, followed on local cuisine. The towns were incorporated during the 1970s Oberrimsingen ← and have been official districts of Freiburg ever since. the left by the guesthouse Walter, featur- ing a farm shop and farm café. If you look 8 Hassler’s Hofladen straight ahead, you will see an observa-  Alte Rathausstrasse 1, Tiengen Munzingen tion tower, which offers stunning 360-de- www.hasslers-hofladen.de 9 gree views of the landscape for those who 9 Restaurant Zum Warteck 14 muster the energy to climb it. Anyone driv- Golfclub St.-Erentrudis-Strasse 40, Munzingen en by other human desires – namely hun- www.restaurant-concini.de 5 ger – should follow the bend in the road onto Hohlweg until it turns left directly into 10 Scheunen Strausse  the center of Opfingen and stop in at the Umkircher Strasse 11, Waltershofen restaurant Blume or the Sonnenbrunnen­ www.scheunenstrausse.de Mengen 12 strausse , just a few meters farther. The 11 Gasthaus Zum Adler inn is inspired by fresh ideas such as Black  Sonnenbrunnenstrasse 12, Waltershofen Forest tapas and street food truck, while www.adler-waltershofen.de the winery, credited as Freiburg’s first or- 12 Weingut Sonnenbrunnen ganic winery, is a traditionally run estab-  Unterdorf 30, Opfingen lishment with a cozy dining room and out- Off-trail www.weingut-sonnenbrunnen.de door seating, as well as a classic menu. In Golfclub Tuniberg Full-moon bar Griestal-Strausse short, both are good and both are worth- 13 Gasthaus Blume The 18-hole course at the foot of Tuniberg Once a month, the Kalkbödele winery A must for asparagus lovers. while. Go ahead and indulge; the last Unterdorf 2, Opfingen is one of the prettiest golf courses in in Merdingen opens the full-moon bar, Tables here, both inside and outside, 10 kilometers are a straight shot back to www.blume-freiburg.de southern Baden, which also draws visitors where guests can enjoy local wine in a are in high demand, so it is good to Freiburg and hold no further challenges in 14 Schloss Reinach with its restaurant “tunigarden.” 5 unique atmosphere. 6 come with time to wait, not to mention store, so there is no need to worry. Cover- Hotel – Restaurant – Day Spa a healthy appetite. 7 ing this last stretch is a piece of cake, even  St.-Erentrudis-Strasse 12, Munzingen Emil Bezold · Ute Battig www.golfclub-tuniberg.de www.kalkboedele.eu on a full stomach. × www.schlossreinach.de www.griestal-strausse.de

26 27 ESCAPING THE DAILY GRIND

The Tuscany of Germany – this is how ­people affectionately refer to the area around Freiburg. Why? The winters here are mild and the number of days with sunshine plenti­ ful. While the rest of Germany braces itself against cold and drizzle, the people in Breis- gau are already sitting in a sidewalk café, sip- ping a cappuccino and squinting against the sun. But Freiburg has a frigid side, too. Just a few kilometers away, you will discover a winter wonderland in the Black Forest. Our author ventured there and fastened on a pair of skis.

Okay, I could go downhill skiing. It’s action-packed­ Click, click. Just like that, the thin slats are dangling off the toe of my boots. and lots of fun. But most of the time, you aren’t the only one to have this bright idea. With a bit of The man who rented me the gear gave me bad luck, you end up waiting in line for the ski lift some encouragement. He said, “Anyone can and have to share the slope with countless others. cross-country ski – even you. You don’t need to Cityscape, When that happens, you don’t really get to experi- take any expensive lessons and years of practice ence much of the nature and scenery around you. like you do with downhill skiing. No, cross-coun- That’s why it’s time to try something different: try skiing is self-explanatory, like stand-up pad- cross-country skiing! Up here on Schauinsland, I dleboarding or Nordic walking. But a lot more don’t need any lifts. I’m my own lift and it operates fun!” Well, okay then. I want to believe the man. landscape, just for me. I fasten on the skis at the start of the trail. Click, click. Just like that, the thin slats are dangling off Cross-country skiing = boring? No way! Peo- the toe of my boots. I’ve decided to go with the ple who say that have obviously never tried it classic version, which is easier than the modern themselves! The Schauinsland cable car fer- form of skate skiing that took off in the 1970s. I snowscape, ries me upward. Destination: the Schauinsland place the slim skis in the equally slim double cross-country skiing trail. It winds its way up track and take a look around. Nobody here – ex- here for 15 kilometers through the winter land- cellent! There’s a winter scene to my left and to scape. The trail is one of many in the region. I’m my right, just like I wanted. The sunlight catch- alone, holding the skis in my hand, which I have es the snow crystals on the fir trees and makes escape rented, along with the poles and boots. The rental them sparkle as if someone had poured diamonds costs 50 euros during the week, which is perfect everywhere. Marvelous! Okay, but now it’s time for trying out a sport that sport researchers claim to get going. I admit, the first few meters I move By: Dimitri Lehner is the healthiest in the world. Why? Because it forward rather hesitantly. But with each passing works out the entire body, strengthens the heart meter, my push-off grows stronger, the gliding Hochschwarzwald Tourismus GmbH Right: Hochschwarzwald Tourismus and gets the circulation going. If I’m honest, I period becomes longer and before I know it, I’m can’t stand cardio sports, because there’s noth- whizzing along. Sometimes I push off with both ing fun about them. I think jogging is tedious, poles at the same time, sometimes in an alter- for example, so I’m very curious to see how I like nating rhythm, while I find myself striding and cross-country skiing. Cross-country skiing seems ­gliding through the winter wonderland. » to me like jogging, but over snow. So will it be Left: Unsplash / Erik Odiin similarly dull, or something altogether different?

28 29 ESCAPING THE DAILY GRIND Or something else after all? Four alternatives for winter-sport­ enthusiasts.

Ski slope fun Feldberg is the number-one stop for skiers and snowboarders. It is easy to reach by bus or train. Visitors can rent equipment at Talstation. There are smaller ski facilities located around it, such as Notschrei, Todtnauberg and Haldenköpfle. In Hinterzarten, you can even go skiing under “ floodlights – romantic campfire Nobody here – excellent! There’s a winter scene to my left setting included. and to my right, just like I wanted.

Sledding ” One of the best-known sled shoulders especially. Even so, I am still runs can be found on Schau- enjoying it. Between the tracks for clas- BLACK FOREST – WINTER SPORTS SINCE 1891 insland. That could be due in My pulse is racing, my lungs are pump- you can make a big trip. What amazes me sic cross-country skiing, which look like part to the lift that comfortably ing – but wait! The rental guy told me to is that the focus on turning in an impres- white tracks of a Märklin model train cut- brings sledding fans up to the start slowly. I reduce my speed and contin- sive performance that you find in so many ting through the snow, a path has been lev- southern slope. It is easy to ue gliding ahead at a more leisurely pace. sports is hardly evident when it comes eled into the ground. This one is for the The Black Forest Ski Museum Enjoy the moment, don’t rush through it. to cross-country skiing. Sure, you don’t skaters. They slide the skis outwards, like reach, for example by taking The museum housed in the rustic Black Forest building in Breathe, don’t pant. It’s better this way, be- want to go at an absolute snail’s pace over you would with inline skating and push the Schauinsland cable car Hinterzarten shines a light on the origins and success of cause I can see better and take in my sur- the trail, but the point here is much more down and back over the edges of the skis from Horben. Sled rentals are skiing as a sport in the Black Forest through pieces of art roundings much more clearly. And the si- about experiencing nature and indulging while pushing off with overlong poles in available on site. and numerous original exhibits from Olympic icons such as lence. No noise at all! The snow absorbs the spirit – a little like yoga and meditation. an overlapping movement. The technique Georg Thoma and Martin Schmitt. every sound and the only thing I hear is the looks athletic and exhausting. Do you sup- whoosh of my skis in my ear. It is exactly According to sport science, cross-coun- pose it’s possible that skaters can enjoy the www.schwarzwaelder-skimuseum.de Snowshoeing try skiing is the world’s healthiest sport. what I was looking for: the chance to final- snow-covered landscape around them as It is possible to go snowshoe- ly get away from the city’s hustle and bus- I read up that, according to sport science, much as I am here? It’s hard to imagine ing practically everywhere, such The final adventure: tle, turn the volume all the way down and cross-country skiing is healthier than al- with skis and poles swinging every which as in Hinterzarten. You can go the Schonach–Belchen backpack race not have to see or hear anyone or anything. most any other kind of exercise out there. way. I come to a halt and let a fast skate out as part of a guided tour I whiz ahead. Small descents make my pu- Cross-country skiing strengthens the skier swoosh past. I remember something Each year, the “final adventure in the Black Forest” kicks off in or on your own. Rentals cost pils dilate and send my heart rate galloping heart, goes easy on the joints and mobi- the ski rental guy said to me: “Skate skiing February. The cross-country ski race, which is contested over around 9 euros per day, for ex- from exhilaration. Then the skis begin to lizes muscles in the arms and upper body is a bit more strenuous at first, but you can a distance of 100 kilometers, is only for true pros (some might ample from Sport Kiefer. slide as if all on their own, but ever faster. through the use of poles. That’s great! Risk pick it up just as fast as the classic version.” say: for those off their rocker). It’s an experience, at any rate. of injury? Low! Because the kind of high- So, next time I want to skate ski, that much www.fernskiwanderweg.de I tense my thighs to stay on course on speed collisions that can occur on the ski is now clear. Equally clear is that there is Snowkiting the thin slats. slope don’t happen in cross-country ski- going to be a next time. Cross-country ski- Feldberg’s plateau and Schau- The skis are just 4 centimeters wide. I’m ing. There is one danger, however: getting a ing is my thing, as I found out today. And insland are popular spots Adler Ski Stadium happy that I decided to go with the easier gliding high and overestimating your abili- I’m happy about it, because this realization among snowkiters. The trendy red trail for my first time out and not the ties, like I have just done. just melted my dread of winter clean away. Hinterzarten has four ski jumps, which see action all year sport featuring the stunt kite black Halde track or night trail, which also I will now no longer say that winter is a long. The most important competition takes place in the requires some skill, which means wind their way through the area up here My first round has gotten a bit excessive dark, depressing time. No, now my motto is summer, funnily enough, when the world’s top skiers face you need to take a course, for off in preparation for the winter season. Visitors can get on Schauinsland. Just a hop, skip and a and now I can feel that cross-country ski- wintertime is cross-country skiing time! × example here: their own impression as part of a ski jump tour. Spectacular jump away from Freiburg, the possibilities ing is, indeed, a workout. My energy has www.kiteschule-skywalker.de views guaranteed! here seem virtually endless. There is even begun to wane, regardless of the gliding For information about all trails and

a long-distance snowshoeing trail from periods and I can feel the constant use GmbH Hochschwarzwald Tourismus snow conditions in the Black Forest, www.sommerskispringen-hinterzarten.de ©

Schonach to Belchen. So if you feel like it, of poles to propel myself forward in my visit:­ www.loipenportal.de/schwarzwald

30 31 Q&A: My favorite spots

Felix Groteloh Sebastian Faber Florian Högner / Thomas Krohn An unconventional autodidact with a A degree-holding winegrower, young These guys love games. With deft, intuitive touch for people and good vintner who has traveled the globe and “FreiSpiel,” the two Freiburg residents stories. After 20 eventful years as a pro- general wine enthusiast: Sebastian have turned their hobby into a career fessional musician, photographer Felix Faber returned to his parents’ family-run by opening a store with a café attached Groteloh stepped off the stage to make business following stays abroad in the for playing games – a café that is full way for others. Since then, he was been regions of Tuscany and Champagne, in every evening. After just one year, it has on the road with his camera in tow, al- Austria and in New Zealand, in order to already achieved cult status. ways on the lookout for “sweet gigs”.... produce Baden wines for connoisseurs. “Thomas and I really like going to the Felix Groteloh

I came to Freiburg over 20 years ago For me, as a true “Bobbele,” or native juice store Saftlädele on Schuster- Right: to do my non-military service. I end- of Freiburg, Freiburg is and remains strasse. They make really delicious ed up studying here afterwards and the authentic and likable big city in juices. My absolute favorite is called – ART & CUISINE – now my children are growing up here. Germany’s most beautiful region, in Florida. It has mango, apple, orange 03 Given the nature of my job, I have a my view. It remains my home and the and grapefruit. They also have the lot to do with people and am usually center of my life. The quality of life best muesli in the city with just the on the road, but since Freiburg is well here is top-notch. It isn’t just our wines right blend of fruit, oats and yogurt,” connected and I live close to the train that benefit from the perfect blend of Florian Högner says. Thomas Krohn station, I can get to the airport in Ba- climate, nature and fertile soil, ensur- has a soft spot in his heart for Adel- Cultural sel quickly. In my spare time, I love ing enjoyment that can’t be beat; the hauser Klosterplatz. “I like to sit there being out in nature, be it camping large number of visitors can experience and read the newspaper. There’s a in the Vosges or going swimming at it, too. The city’s “old” inns reflect this nice tree nearby and it isn’t as busy as the Dreisam with my kids. I actual- perfect mix of an established culture, it is on Augustinerplatz. Young par- Life ly wouldn’t mind moving out to the excellent cuisine and a sociable atti- tygoers haven’t discovered the square countryside, but then I couldn’t quick- tude. One of my favorite places is Mün- yet, either. You can really discover the Felix Groteloh · Weingut Faber · Georg Rudiger Faber · Georg · Weingut Portrait photos: Felix Groteloh ly pop by Café Huber in Stühlinger for sterplatz. The lively atmosphere during ‘old’ Freiburg there.” Florian Högner an espresso, by Bar am Funkeneck for the morning bustle of the market is as also loves being outdoors. “I enjoy a beer (they’ve got pale ale on tap!), or charming as an evening stroll through hanging out on the banks of the Drei- by One Trick Pony for one, two, three the beautifully illuminated city center sam in the summer. Not to grill, but drinks that aren’t too shabby. To put after a good meal. just as a cozy place to sit and enjoy a it simply, things really couldn’t be any book. Ever since we opened the store, better for me here! I haven’t had the time for that any- Weinguts-Vinothek more, unfortunately.” Café Huber Langgasse 5, 79111 FR-St. Georgen www.weingutfaber.de Wentzingerstrasse 46 FreiSpiel Freiburg www.huber-freiburg.com Lehener Strasse 15 Freiburger Schönberg mountain www.freispiel-freiburg.de Bar am Funkeneck Circular route with an educational trail on winegrowing Ferdinand-Weiss-Strasse 8 Saftlädele facebook.com/BARamFunkeneck Schusterstrasse 34 Schauinsland Live music of all stripes with international performers in very different settings: One Trick Pony Up, up and away by foot, Adelhauser Klosterplatz Freiburg’s music scene has the stuff to impress even connoisseurs and acknowl- mountain bike or cable car Oberlinden 8 Fischerau / Corner of www.schauinslandbahn.de edged genre-jumpers. The quality of the scene’s variety surprises them all. Wherever www.onetrickpony.bar Adelhauser Strasse there’s something to delight the ears, there’s always something going on.

32 CULTURAL LIFE

One room, one man and a whole lotta ­music. Willi Krüger, owner and overseer of his beer and music bar “Litfass” in the Sedan­ district. Felix Groteloh

Music bars will play the Beatles’ ­Sergeant Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band album all the way through, Alex Bleiziffer and Stefan Gebhard insist on this defini- tion. Both men have been musicians since letting loose while scorning the radio and hit songs their first hard-rock screams seconds after seeing the from the charts. What’s more, the light of day for the first time. The one is sometimes to music is played in the bar itself, not be found wearing the hat of singing performance DJ, in the next room or the basement. while the other is a guitarist and crossover artist be- tween various musical tides. The two now find them- That’s why a music bar isn’t just any selves together in the AWA band and are long-time old event location – it IS the event, connoisseurs and afficionados of Freiburg’s bar and be it in Freiburg or elsewhere. A lot music scene. To prevent this depiction of music bars depends on what the boss likes, who from devolving into some mawkish, personal oath of allegiance, letting someone else besides me weigh in is usually more of a bandleader than seems like a reasonable thing to do. manager of the bar or kitchen. At heart, at least. Still, the feel-good factor is important. And Litfass, There might be a stage at a music which is perhaps Freiburg’s oldest music bar, probably Play it again, deserves a score in this regard of five out of five feel- bar, but the venue isn’t a lounge or good points. “As soon as you enter, you immediately dance club. We’re talking about bars have that feeling of, ‘Ah, excellent, I’ve arrived. Bud- buddy for music lovers, not places where you dy, a beer, please. And yeah, gimme a schnapps with it. sip cocktails to some Spotify playlist. And can we listen to the album again from the begin- ning? It was so good.’” The Litfass is the epitome of a Freiburg music bar: By: Jürgen Uhl small – well, actually, very small, at just 35 square me- ters – nothing fancy, but 100% authentic. Unplugged, from the bar to the music. From readings (every sec- ond and fourth Wednesday in the month) to sing- er-songwriters and buskers who strike up the music again and drink their after-work beer while playing, all Whether “Egon54” at Egonstrasse 54 in the district of Stühlinger was named after the street or the street was named after the music bar isn’t walks of life come together here in this small venue: ac- clear. But what we do know is that owner Peter Lischke has some enter- tors from the Theater Freiburg next door, students, as taining stories of wild nights of music and other legends from the neigh- well as the elderly gentlemen from the regulars’ table. borhood to tell. Felix Groteloh »

34 35 CULTURAL LIFE Q&A: My favorite spots

At times, there is almost something avant-garde about the Swamp. It’s ex- tremely underground, as in, ‘Hey, you don’t know this band?’ Okay, well, anyway, they’re playing here on Thursday. Chico Carmelo Policicchio, who everyone just calls “Chico,” is a barkeeper, author and organizer of musical events. His cult bar a match on early Saturday afternoon with other soccer enthusiasts “Swamp” on busy Schwarzwaldstrasse and then raise a glass with a hard rocker about 90 minutes later has been serving up soccer, cold beer to toast SC Freiburg’s win, in a best-case scenario. Or take lunch, and good music for over 25 years. All for instance, where you have a university professor sitting next you need for a perfect evening. to a guy in a baseball cap. It just might be the most diverse place All these patrons can be found fraternizing among one to have just one beer. It’s a busy place and starting at of them all. The food here is affordable, even on a student’s bud- My favorite place in Freiburg is the another until 3 a.m. during the week and until 4 o’clock 11 p.m., things really get loud as the music begins to get. With at least five spaghetti dishes and schnitzel with fries, the Dreisam stadium, where you’re close in the morning on weekends. There is no stage here. rock. Also, if you’re interested in playing some foosball menu is basic, sure, but always okay. The music bar for everyone.” to all the action. At SC Freiburg, Music is performed on the wooden bench, framed by at league level, look no further. You’ll find your cham- everyone has stayed down-to- souvenir photos and smoke (it’s a smoking bar). Mitten- pion there.” If the Atlantik is the music bar for everyone, then the Swamp earth – from the fan to the stadium drin, or “part of the action,” is the name of the game in the Wiehre district sets the bar for the sub- and underground announcer. I have known the coach, and anyone who has a guitar with them, plays. Next street, next bar: The Great Räng Teng Teng. Ser- scene. “At times, there is almost something avant-garde about the Christian Streich, for over twenty vorock, rock ’n’ roll, rockabilly, swing and more, plus Swamp. It’s extremely underground, as in, ‘Hey, you don’t know years. He often stopped by the Swamp Oozing the same kind of authentic flair as the Litfass lots of events, lots of music, lots of cabaret and stage this band?’ Okay, well, anyway, they’re playing here on Thursday.’” even as a youth coach. I like going is the rustic and informal Egon 54 in the Stühlinger shows, such as slam poetry and experimental formats Carmelo Policicchio, Swamp proprietor and long-time advocate to Pulcinella to eat, where the Peru- district. The menu offers unpretentious fare at cheap for everyone. Alex remembers one event that he at- of music at its finest, can claim to have a few music nerds among vian mother of the manager cooks prices. Visions of wild parties and a whiff of the 1980s tended: “You had to give a talk on a PowerPoint presen- his patrons. “That’s because a band that you for sure don’t know up delicious Italian meals every day pervades the space. You’ll find alternative rock playing tation that you’d never seen before. Mine was on gey- will play at the Swamp, but then on your way home, you won- at affordable prices. When I’m look- here all the time and often performed live on the week- sers in Iceland. It was a really entertaining evening....” der why the world doesn’t know about this band. Chico definite- ing for new albums, I head to Flight ends. The music only gets turned off on Tuesdays for For the rather youngish crowd, Räng has turned into a ly has a knack, no doubt. And if he thinks an album is good, then 13 Records in Stühlinger. The guys the pub quiz event and on Wednesdays for the tourna- kind of alternative dance club. The place gets packed he’s gonna play it from start to finish – loudly.” Maybe this is why there, Danny and Götz, have a pret- ments of Freiburg’s backgammon association. starting between 11 and midnight and then it gets re- the Swamp is also the music bar shaped the most by its owner. But ty accurate sense of what I like and give me good tips. Afterwards, I will ally loud from 1 a.m. on, at which point it isn’t possible it’s always nice. And maybe also by Volker Finke, the former coach often stop by the JC-Café around the If your thing is music paired with good brews, then to fall over anymore on the dance floor. “You may not of SC Freiburg, who is loved and respected by many. Rumor has it corner. The place has truly excellent you’d do best to stay in Stühlinger. The BAR am Funke- know exactly what kind of music you’re dancing to, but that Volker Finke held more press conferences at the Swamp than coffee and good music. I like talking neck surely has one of the biggest selections of region- it makes you dance.” in the press room of the SC Freiburg club. That may also be why about SC Freiburg with Willi Giebler, al craft beers. Most of the time, DJs are serving up the you can sense an almost nostalgic whiff of Freiburg soccer history the owner. Our conversations can of- music while you enjoy a cold one, but concerts of every Finding common ground over soccer and spaghetti when watching soccer at the Swamp. × ten get pretty heated. stripe and color are played here, too. Just behind Schwabentor (Swabian Gate), you’ll find the biggest music bar and a Freiburg institution: Pulcinella Heading back over the Blue Bridge, you will find two the Atlantik. There is no shame here about the wide BAR am Funkeneck  Ferdinand-Weiss-Strasse 8 Antal · Georg Rudiger Antal · Georg music bars of a very different kind between Jazzhaus range of different types of music, which makes it im- / Trattoria and pizzeria Café Atlantik Schwabentorring 7 · www.cafe-atlantik.de and Crash. The first one isKiez , where you’ll hear ev- possible to classify the place – in a good way. Cross- Habsburgerstrasse 121 erything from punk and metal to rockabilly and psy- over, in a word and never fare from the charts. You Egon 54 Egonstrasse 54 · www.egon54.de pizzeria-trattoria-pulcinella.negocio.site chedelic. It’s a typical punk-rock bar that wouldn’t be can always bank on a good time and a good band. For Right: FWTM Eimer Belfortstrasse 59 · www.eimer-freiburg.com out of place music-wise in Berlin’s Kreuzberg district. bands that return year after year, playing on the stage Flight 13 Records The place features a long bar, a cool interior, a big beer at the Atlantik is like playing on home turf. “There is Kiez 57 Belfortstrasse 57 Stühlingerstrasse 15 selection and regular concerts, along with foosball and no dress code. Whatever you wear, be it a necktie or a Litfass Moltkestrasse 17 · www.litfass-freiburg.jimdo.com www.flight13.com pool tables to boot. heavy-metal T-shirt, you can’t go wrong. You’ll always Swamp Talstrasse 90 · www.swamp-club-freiburg.de If you walk 32 steps farther heading towards the city fit in. This place is like a one-stop shop with something JC-Café center, this is where fans of rock and metal will feel for everyone, regardless of their crowd. A fan of the lo- The Great Räng Teng Teng Grünwälderstrasse 6 Left: Unsplash / Frame Harirak right at home. “You don’t go to Eimer with the plan cal soccer team SC Freiburg can watch the beginning of www.raengtengteng.com  Klarastrasse 70

36 37 CULTURAL LIFE

Michael Musiol is not only the CEO of Jazzhaus Freiburg GmbH, “Experiencing jazz has a lot to do with but he also ­organizes the annual ­intensity and emotion” international Freiburg Jazz Festival. Georg Rudiger interviewed him about There are other jazz promoters in the city, such as the city’s jazz scene, new trends, pianist Johannes Mössinger, who hosts the “Jazz- and strong emotions. kongress” event every Monday at Gasthaus Schüt- zen. What can people hear there? The setup is smaller and more intimate and you can hear acoustic, modern and challenging jazz there in Many music lovers consider jazz to be too compli- particular. I don’t view this choice series as compe- cated and mostly you find the same old suspects tition, but rather as an enriching addition. Thomas sitting in the jazz clubs – patrons who have grown Bauser’s Hammond Jazznight at Jos Fritz Café is a older along with jazz itself. unique accent in Freiburg’s jazz scene as well. Recent I take a different view. A lot has happened in recent newcomers include event organizers such as Jazz am years. Jazz musicians have begun to embrace other Schönberg in Sankt Georgen and ForumJazz at the styles, such as Kamasi Washington, who weaves ele- Forum Merzhausen, which host chamber music per- ments of hip-hop into his music. Bahrain-born trum- formances as well as acts that are a bit more low-key. pet player Yazz Ahmed, who was a guest performer at The city’s jazz scene is staying lively thanks to all these the very well-attended international Freiburg Jazz Fes- options. tival, includes Arabic influences. The Portico Quartet from England combines jazz and electronic music. This When do you personally find yourself really wowed move towards opening jazz up to other styles is doing and excited by a jazz evening? the genre a lot of good – and attracting a new crowd. It varies greatly. When a singer manages to immediately Even the Freiburg Cécile Verny Quartet has since in- connect with the audience, like Indra Rios-Moore did at corporated other styles, such as soul and rock, into the the last Freiburg Jazz Festival, which I collaborate close- ensemble’s jazz. ly on with E-Werk, that makes me feel really good as a host. But the meditative sounds of Tord Gustavsen on pia- Music plays a major role in Freiburg. Is the city no can move me deeply, too. Experiencing jazz has a lot to also a jazz hub? do with intensity and emotion. With its wide but shallow I wouldn’t say that. There are definitely other cities, stage, the basement of the Jazzhaus club enhances those such as Mannheim, where jazz is even more promi- two aspects. The audience is very close to the action. × nent. But we do have an active jazz scene in Freiburg, covering a wide range of styles.

What do you personally like about jazz?

I like how open the music is. Jazz is very experimental Jazzhaus Schnewlinstrasse 1 and innovative. You definitely have to engage with this www.jazzhaus.de music, but once you do, you can discover a lot of excit- Jazz ohne Stress (Stress-free Jazz) ing and also profound things. Jazz in Free admission on Tuesdays at Waldsee The Jazzhaus Freiburg has a long tradition. Miles Waldseestrasse 84 Davis even played here. What kind of jazz can visi- www.waldsee-freiburg.de Freiburg tors hear at the club? Hammond Jazznight at Jos-Fritz-Café I keep a very close eye on the jazz scene and try to fea- Wilhelmstrasse 15/1 – experimental and ture certain international trends here, such as Yazz www.hammondjazznight.de Ahmed, who’s a big gun in England. It’s always a bal- Jazz am Schönberg innovative­ ancing act between economic obligations and the mu- Haus 037 Vauban, Alfred-Döblin-Platz 1 sic we put on stage. Famous people such as Nils Land- www.jazzamschoenberg.de gren and Maceo Parker are also guest performers here. Jazzkongress  Every Monday at Gasthaus Schützen, At the same time, we are happy to welcome the likes Schützenallee 12 www.jazzkongress.de of Julia Hülsmann or Olivia Trummer to our stage as © Anja Limbrunner well, even though we don’t expect huge crowds. Freiburg Jazz Festival Various locations in September www.jazzfestival-freiburg.de

38 39 CULTURAL LIFE

An interview with: Martin Bruch, director of ­Literaturhaus Freiburg

From a former telephone booth that has been ­converted into a “book booth” behind the theater to private “book boxes” on the doorsteps of homes What are some of your key consider- in Wiehre and Stühlinger and public bookcases in ations when designing a program? ­various districts, ways of lending and swapping We look for exciting voices and new ways books for free in Freiburg have a permanent place to promote literature. The aim is to get in unconventional locations, too. people thinking about language – and, in doing so, also about the world around us Literatur Forum Südwest (Southwest Lit- and the issues that concern us directly. erature Forum). Founded by regional au- There are any number of ways of intro- thors in 1988 to foster the local literary life, ducing an audience to literature, which Read on, the association soon opened its doors as well takes curiosity and imagination. to translators who focused professionally on literature. This move expanded the scope of How do you successfully eliminate the association in an exciting and inspiring fear of the unfamiliar and reach a way. In 1992, the association then became new audience? Freiburg Freiburger Literaturgespräch the Literaturbüro (Literary Bureau), before With each new program, we try to find Since 1986, one of the finally becoming the Literaturhaus based at out where and how literature and liter- Plenty of material for some good stories highlights of Freiburg’s the Old University in October 2017. “If the li- ary encounters can still happen. It’s im- cultural landscape brary is the house of books, then the Liter- portant to regularly look beyond the LirumLarumLesefest aturhaus is the house of people. We want walls of our organization and head out www.freiburg.de/lesefest to establish a place that can be accessed to other places. This has led to such ideas University town and Well-managed libraries, an active book business and the willingness to participate and experienced in many ways; one that as zwischen/miete – a reading series in Freiburg Stadtlesen trade and the city’s own Literaturhaus – an in joint events is great. This also applies to embraces lively discourse where visitors shared student accommodations – and city of science and www.stadtlesen.com books – though it institution dedicated to promoting contem- teaming up with the Literaturhaus on Ber- come into contact with literature and dis- Freileser, or “open-air reader,” where we porary literature – all cater to readers’ needs toldstrasse – and the feedback is exception- Literaturhaus Freiburg cuss it,” said Martin Bruch, director of Lit- go to pools in the summer with a con- may not be apparent with a wide range of very different genres, ally positive. Bertoldstrasse 17 eraturhaus Freiburg. “From the beginning, verted cargo bike and lend books for free, at first glance, if you in addition to providing ever different ways www.literaturhaus-freiburg.de the aim was to give literature a voice and to among other measures. look a little deeper to experience language and storytelling. In the form of the Freiburger Litera- Buchhandlung Rombach do so through language, not through some What is the Literaturhaus Freiburg’s at the role of litera- turgespräche (Freiburg Literary Talks), the Bertoldstrasse 10 bombastic, top-down approach.” This means An educated middle class and a universi- children’s literature festival Lirum Larum through direct contact and discussion with main concern? Das Landkartenhaus ture and the impor- ty setting have furnished Freiburg with a Lesefest and the StadtLesen outdoor reading the very writers and creative forces be- Our primary concern is to make a wide Maps and travel literature tance of reading in readership harboring many different inter- series, three prominently attended annual hind the works. The result is a remarkably range of high-quality literature available Schiffstrasse 6 Freiburg, you will be ests and also a strong book trade. The con- events have taken root that have established busy program featuring around 120 events for people to experience and this is ini-

centration and quality of independent, pre- a reputation for themselves extending be- Paul Hanaoka · © Christoph Erberle Buchhandlung Walthari per year. Readings, event series and work- tially not a question of genre, which can amazed by the in- / dominantly owner-run stores is impressive yond the city’s borders. A little more tucked University bookshop shops are designed in a way that transgress extend from a brilliantly narrated nov- spiring diversity you and eclipses many larger cities. Thanks to away, but no less interesting, are the un- Bertoldstrasse 28 boundaries in a number of ways. They un- el to comics. The question we ask is this: will find here. extremely different selections tailored to ter sternen (Under the Stars) reading series, Buchhandlung Schwarz derscore the openness and creativity of the What speaks to us? And why? That’s why specific target groups, the range of books the Herdermer SommerLesungen (Herdern Günterstalstrasse 44 people behind it all, as well as the collabo- a book’s layout is an issue, too. Imagina- and literature to be found in Freiburg is Summer Readings) and the nighttime read- ration based on partnership with Houses of tive graphics, drawings, typography – all Jos Fritz Buchhandlung extraordinarily broad and attractive. By ing event Grether Nach(t)lese. Literature in other cities, such as Stuttgart these things contribute to how a book is Wilhelmstrasse 15 working together in a spirit of cooperation The success story of the Literaturhaus and Zurich. The aim is to reach as wide an received. instead of competition and embracing mu- Freiburg is as much the success story of the X für U Comics audience as possible – and get people excited FWTM / Felix Groteloh · unsplash.com FWTM / Felix Groteloh By: Ute Battig tual stimulus, booksellers manage to boost organization that sponsors it today, namely Rempartstrasse 7 about literature. ×

40 41 CULTURAL LIFE

A day on Freiburg’s

Journey through time to the beginning of balcony Imperial Germany Herdern is quaint and fashionable, If you leave this tranquil oasis by taking the Stadtstrasse By: Georg Rudiger quiet and busy. Here in Freiburg’s exit and head deeper into Herdern going north, the path exclusive residential quarter, you becomes a journey through time back to the Freiburg at the beginning of Imperial Germany, when in 1871, fol- will run into students and profes- lowing the Franco-German War, the first villas were sors alike. In addition, you will enjoy built in the up-and-coming city for manufacturers, the most spectacular view from the high-ranking military officers, professors and the may- hillsides. Even a cemetery is a real or. The year 1883 has been forged into the iron gate of an estate on Hansastrasse. On Weiherhofstrasse, you eye-catcher here. will find palatial twin villas. Jugendstil elements appear constantly, for example on Tivolistrasse, where stained- glass windows combine with floral reliefs. Sometimes She must have fallen asleep while reading. The book the facades are decorated with stucco, while other still lies open in her right hand, but the eyes of the times half-timbered frames have been incorporated beautiful young woman are closed. Yellow roses adorn into the villas of this exclusive residential area. You can her chest. Some of the folds in her blanket are covered simply drift your way through these streets lined with with moss. The grave of Caroline Christine Walter, lo- ancient trees and look forward to what architectural cated by the wall in the northeast section of the Alter surprise the next property holds in store. » Friedhof (Old Cemetery), is constantly decorated with flowers, though no one knows who brings them. To this day, the fate of this girl from Opfingen, who passed away in 1867 at the tender age of 17, still has the pow- er to move visitors. Here, at the Old Cemetery (1683– 1872), which has since been declared a monument of natural and cultural heritage, you can learn a lot about Freiburg. You will come across names, such as Johann Christian Wentzinger, Heinrich Sautier and Karl von Rotteck, which can be found on the approximate- ly 1,200 graves across the park-like grounds, that you also see on the city’s street signs. Each tomb and grave in this special park is different. Wrought-iron crosses stand next to stone sculptures and simple plaques next to massive altars. Freiburg’s citizens have had them- selves immortalized here and a gravestone can also FWTM / Antal serve as a status symbol.

Alter Friedhof (Old Cemetery) 1 A place of ­repose and of nature. Behind each grave there is a story. Each tree bears witness to the past

Neighborhood profile of Herdern April 1–October 31: 7 a.m.–8 p.m. November 1–March 31: 8 a.m.–5 p.m.

42 43 CULTURAL LIFE Q&A: My favorite spots

7

Hans Sigmund There is probably no one who knows Herd- ern as well as Hans Sigmund. In addition to having written the book “1000 Jahre Herdern” (1000 Years of Herdern), the for- mer savings bank director (born in 1939) is means Herdern is over 100 years older than Freiburg. The vil- also the honorary chairman of the citizens’ lagers lived here as craftspeople and winegrowers. The par- association and chronicler for the fools’ ish church is dedicated to St. Urban, who is the patron saint guild. He takes care of maintaining the Old of winemakers. Visitors today will discover the town’s rus- ­Cemetery as a booster club member as well. tic village past not only in the architecture of Old Herdern, in order to develop attractive residential but also in the mindset of its inhabitants. The sense of sol- neighborhoods. In doing so, he paved the While I have been living in Haslach since idarity is immense. Many festivals and traditions strength- way for later things to come. The long Win- 1990, I find myself in Herdern almost en community spirit, such as St. Urban’s Day in May, which tererstrasse, winding Sonnhalde and lofty every day. I like the communal spirit begins with a procession, the Herdermer Hock street fes- Eichhalde are Freiburg’s top locations, of the people from Herdern. We have a tival in July, which is organized by local associations and where modern hillside homes featuring strong attachment to our homeland. My Rustic past the popular soapbox derby in September on Eichhalde hill. lots of glass and cement may be found next favorite place is Kirchplatz. The whole The longer you follow Stadtstrasse with its slight incline, the People here are Herderners first and Freiburgers second! to castle-like villas. Up here, on Freiburg’s life of the town happens here around the smaller and more modest the buildings become, at least on balcony, you can enjoy extensive views ev- Catholic parish church of St. Urban and the left side of the street. By the time you reach the tapas The “Little Nice” of Freiburg ery day over the city, the Rhine plain and the church’s steps are where all of the bar La Finca 2 , the rustic village character of Old Herd- On the other hand, Herdern has also become a swanky place the Vosges. Behind the parish church in festivals and celebrations take place. For ern is already evident. On Hauptstrasse, there is nothing in the exclusive hillside locations. Vom ehemaligen Winzer- what’s known as the “back village,” the ter- meals, I like going to Herdern’s oldest left remotely reminiscent of big-city flair. The gently bab- ort zum ‚Klein-Nizza‘ von Freiburg (From a Former Wine- The sense of rain rises up steeply at the “fools’ fountain” inn, Zum Schwanen. It’s also where we meet for our “Lalli-Zunft” (the local fools’ bling brook known as Glasbach washes away any sense of growing Village to the “Little Nice” of Freiburg) is the name ­solidarity in the of Herdern’s Lalli guild headed into Hebsa- hustle or bustle. Kirchplatz 3 (Church Square) is not only that Hans Sigmund gave to his book chronicling Herdern’s ckweg. People farmed on the Hebsack es- guild whose mask features a tongue loll- the site of the popular farmers market on Tuesday and Fri- 1,000-year history. The title not only alludes to the warmer ­district is immense. tate, situated above Sonnhalde, until 1971. ing out of the mouth) and enjoy the tasty day afternoons, but also the hub of Herdern, what with its vil- climate that this part of town protected from the wind enjoys, People here are You can still see at least a few horses in and affordable Italian cuisine. I still like the imposing red Herder building, de- lage fountain, shady lime and chestnut trees and the church but also nods to the exclusive nature of the city on the French the surrounding orchards. And if you look Herderners first and signed by Freiburg architect Max Meckel, steps, which provide the perfect place to sit. The first men- Riviera. Between 1904 and 1907, the Lord Mayor of Freiburg, closely, you will discover a green wood- Freiburgers second! very much. The publishing house with its tion of the village in a document is from the year 1008, which Otto Winterer, hired workers to build Panoramastrasse en barrack in the bushes on the side of the printing shop was an important place of road with a white inscription: Licht-Luft- employment for the people of Herdern Sport-Bad 7 (Light-Air-Sports-Bathing). after the war. Today, you can see the uni- You have to be a member of Naturheilvere- versity’s archeological collection there.  Botanical Garden Giessenstrasse Ludwig-Aschoff-Platz in Freiburg (Naturopathic Association of If you happen to visit the Botanical West of Habsburgerstrasse, Herd- Even though five streets converge at Freiburg), founded in 1899, in order to get Garden 4 in the morning, you are ern becomes more urban and less this square, the semicircular Ludwig- a key to this tradition-rich place where, Herdermer Kirchplatz bound to hear a cacophony of chil- idyllic. Giessenstrasse 5 is an Aschoff-Platz 6 is a place of lei- according to the charter, one must “care Hauptstrasse 501 dren’s voices, in addition to frogs exception, however, with its colorful sure. The square’s flair comes from Right: FWTM / Joos for one’s health by seeking fresh air, exer- and birds. With a notepad in hand, facades and tranquil location along the Friedrich-Gymnasium school, cise, sunshine and cold-water treatments.” Restaurant Zum Schwanen schoolkids explore the grounds, the ­Gewerbekanal waterway. The which opened in 1904 and took There is no pool, but the site does offer  Stadtstrasse 87 which have a lot to offer. You will dis- entrances to the buildings there are inspiration from the German deco- changing rooms, showers and a ping-pong www.schwanen-freiburg.de cover some 6,000 different kinds of accessed by bridge. The place is rative style known as Jugendstil, as table – as well as a magnificent view that the Antal · Georg Rudiger Antal · Georg plants from all around the world here. buzzing with activity just once a year, well as Richard Engelmann’s grace- / village youth in the 1950s sometimes traded But you can also just simply enjoy the when the popular street festival with ful bronze sculpture called “Flora” for a titillating peek through a knothole into Archeological collection nature, too. its flea market is held. and the two redwood trees, which the nudist section. » of the university  Left: FWTM are over 100 years old. Herderbau, Habsburgerstrasse www.archaeologische-sammlung. uni-freiburg.de 44 45 CULTURAL LIFE Q&A: Korbflechterei Witt  12 With their My favorite spots basketry workshop located right next to Kirchplatz, Gaby and Roland Witt run one of the last craft businesses Immerse yourself in a sea of in Herdern. They weave and repair flowers and leave everyday everything­ from bread baskets to cares behind at the university’s wicker chairs – all by hand, of course! Botanical Garden. Hauptstrasse 35 www.korbflechterei-witt.de

Stadtgarten 13 From strolling and chilling to slacklining, reading and more, the small, well-tended municipal Fabrizio Bonacci 13 park at the foot of Schlossberg is a 4 Fabrizio Bonacci has been running popular place close to the city center The former Hotel Stadt Wien locat- Primo Market on Bernhardstrasse for where old and young alike go to relax. ed at the Renn­weg intersection is one

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where the streets are named after mu- quarter is filled with life thanks to the a u pens outside. I also like the Black d r e

r N

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c e abuts Kirchplatz also tempts patrons i s sicians – and the imposing Herz-Jesu- many students who study medicine 8 as Forest. The city’s proximity to France, Okens R r trasse t s

k 7

c with an “after work on the piazza”

a

Kloster (Sacred Heart Cloister) on the or one of the natural sciences here. A Switzerland and, of course, Italy, is s

b

e

H feeling. Sandstrasse 2

Lambertusstrasse e

right, you find yourself headed directly real eye-catcher on Habsburgerstrasse wonderful. I was deeply impressed s

s

Botanical Garden e a

s r t

s s www.dieeismanufaktur.de

a

by Münsterplatz and the Cathedral r d towards lively Habsburgerstrasse. Set is the oxblood-colored building that is e n

ass t r a st s

rd Remigiusstr l No asse S e g s e 10 when I was here for the very first s ew back a bit just to the left is the Vorder- the Herder-Verlag (Herder Pub- 4 ü l Anadolu 15 Here you will find home- l St. Urban Church us h ä   c 14 rh S e g haus 8 , a well-known cabaret with a lishing House), which occupies a whole time with my father. It’s as if you 3 Jä made appetizers, a wide assortment 12 restaurant and beer garden. The pop- block. Today, large sections of the can breathe in the history of the city of olives, vegetables from the Kaiser-

e e

s s

s s a a there. I like the kind of German home r se r t stuhl hills and three shelves filled with

ular hangout is part of a sociocultural building, which was erected between as t S r s OLD HERDERN

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e p

e i

s g h e

cooking that’s served at Martinsbräu. e s

w c n spices. Stefan-Meier-Strasse 129

n a center with some 150 employees. Until 1900 and 1912, are home to the univer- n r

Re r -K e

t n s L ia

n t

Simple, but good – and featuring fresh a s a

1975, this was the site of a yarn facto- sity’s department of forestry and silvi- b b

r e

e U Chada Thai 16 The sedate Musiker- sse S s rstra 2 ingredients. The beer tastes amazing, s de rgun ry before the first self-governing busi- culture. The inscription Geist schafft a Bu r viertel (Musicians District) doesn’t t strasse acobi too. I enjoy going to the Mundenhof S J - nesses and associations moved in. The Leben (Spirit gives life) perches above r

e offer too many attractions, but Chada i Imm 6 enta animal and nature adventure park e lst rasse two industrial brick buildings have an the temple-like facade decorated in e

M s Ti Thai is definitely one of them, what - s v ol

a is n t

with my kids. I really love the zoo r ra t s

a se s

f

r urban flair. At the “Fabrik für Hand­ gold at the Herrmann-Herder-Strasse e

s e with its patio bathed in the generous

e i s

t t e

a e u there. It’s so wonderfully normal and r s s

S s t

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a

S t werk, Kultur und Ökologie” (Facto- entrance. Now it’s high time to replen- f

r r shade of chestnut trees, its exquisite o t e r s

h e 15 r located right on the city’s doorstep. d t r

e in

a h ry for Handicrafts, Culture and Ecol- ish your strength after the long walk i

h W Thai cuisine and tasteful furnishings. e n

e

People should get to know their own 5 17 W e g ogy), quality of life is more important through Herdern. Primo Market 11 on Tennenba s n c s her Strasse asse ä Richard-Wagner-Strasse 24 r L lflinst a corner of the world before traveling Wö r t

18 s than profit. The renters here decide Bernhardstrasse doesn’t look very in- t sse r www.chadathai.de nstra a to distant lands. e z Stark themselves on rent increases and viting from the outside and even inside, 9 o M Lebemann 17 This young bar has it hope to make the world a little bit bet- it takes some getting used to the par- 10 all: scrumptious breakfast options, an e Johanniterstrasse

ter. Anyone looking to have a good ticular appeal of neon lights and super- Münsterplatz, Hermann-Herder-Strass Hansastrasse

e

s ever-changing lunch menu, bratwurst s

laugh at the expense of politicians can market shelves. But by the time you are Freiburg Old Town a Old r

e

t specialties and all sorts of cocktails.

s Cemetery

S s

www.freiburgermuenster.info a r do so at the Vorderhaus across the standing in line at the open-concept r FWTM / Antal

t e e s Habsburgerstrasse 110

l

Deutsch 1 s g ordenstr r

INSTITUTSVIERTEL s r

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courtyard whenever well-known kitchen and owner Fabrizio Bonac- r u

K t www.lebemann-freiburg.de s

(INSTITUTE DISTRICT) b Right:

t s

d b cabaret artists such as Matthias ci starts reciting the entire handwrit- a NEUBURG

t a

Martinsbräu S

Albertstrasse H Restaurant Rose 18 This inconspicu-

e Deutschmann and Jess Jochimsen ten menu in a charming Italian accent s Ludwig

s strasse

Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse 237 a

e

r s

t ous pavilion is not an eye-catcher and

s

s l

share their take on the world in the for each patron, no matter whether a

e r

t e

b

www.martinsbräu-freiburg.de s s

e s

n Bernhardstras unflinching owner Somphon Schip-

a se

H

e

r

n t most highly entertaining manner. they are a “dottore” or “principessa,” e i

strass s

Rhein r

n a

a 11 h

i Stadtgarten pers displays a rather acerbic charm.

t

r a

Habsburgerstrasse leads back to the the feeling of anticipation for the tra- e K M 13 Antal · Georg Rudiger Antal · Georg Perhaps this is part of the reason city center, with the Cathedral always ditional Italian dishes begins to grow. Mundenhof – animal and / Leopold why her Laotian restaurant “Rose” nature ­adventure park ring Schlossberg- in view. Here, too, you will discover at- Time for enjoying the finer things in Europaplatz Karlsplatz funicular has achieved cult status, though it is tractive Jugendstil facades scattered life – that, too, is necessary in Herdern.  Mundenhof 37 Left: FWTM

mainly due to the fresh Asian cuisine www.mundenhof.de e g s n × g s i Schlossberg among some eyesores. r e n a i r g e 455m r t r l dished up here at affordable prices. l k S e a c - b k e h s c t p s r t Stefan-Meier-Strasse 34 e o a o OLD TOWN s l R h m o c s J i - S r B e s 46 i 47 a

K Cathedral Learn more about Freiburg? Welcome

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Follow that Freiburg feeling Whether you are a culture addict or allergic to museums, a nature lover or hobby historian, a churchgoer or an epicurean, a pack animal or an indivi­ dualist, you can plan your perfect time in Freiburg online by visiting here: www.visit.freiburg.de

Get inspired and find out everything you need to know about seasonal ­activities, musical events and cultural highlights: instagram.com/visit.freiburg www.visit.freiburg.de visit.freiburg FWTM / Antal

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