BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG 391 Lake Constance Stuttgart Tübingen © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Baden-Baden Höllental AREA: AREA

BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG 391 Lake Constance Stuttgart Tübingen © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Baden-Baden Höllental AREA: AREA:

Soak in an ornate Soak in an ornate with strudel at a with strudel at a Explore the the Explore (Eis) Explore outstanding outstanding Explore Admire the snow-capped Alps the snow-capped Alps Admire Hoof it, train it or floor it Hoof it, train it or floor it Art and Automobiles ) p393 museums and classy shops in Stuttgart ( Snow and Eis and savour ice cream ) p452 lakefront café on Lake Constance ( Indulgence Warm Watery ) p434 19th-century Baden-Baden spa ( Back to the Middle Ages medieval old town and ancient castle in the ) p423 city of Tübingen ( university Hell’s Valley ) in p449 through the Höllental (Hell’s Valley, the Southern Black Forest POPULATION: 10.7 MILLION 10.7 MILLION POPULATION:

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

One of the country’s most prosperous states, Baden-Württemberg was created in 1951 out was created Baden-Württemberg prosperous states, One of the country’s most the capital Stuttgart and a wealth is the home of Mercedes-Benz and Porsche, In the centre, students In Heidelberg, cities. famous and ancient university is also home to three state The is in by the Alps – – overlooked Lake shore Constance (Bodensee), whose southern Baden-Württemberg is one of Germany’s most popular holiday regions, rivalled only by rivalled only by holiday regions, of Germany’s most popular is one Baden-Württemberg is covered Most of the state and range of outdoor activities. Bavaria in its natural landscapes whose peaks, lakes playground and a vast nature (Schwarzwald), by the fabled Black Forest and punctual to hikers, people who cyclists, bathers, boaters irresistible cuckoo clocks are bird calls charming rather than annoying. mechanical find quarter-hourly back in history, much and Hohenzollern. Further Baden, Württemberg historic regions: of three part still speak were many people here of Swabia (Schwaben) and of its southern reaches incomprehensible. a melodic dialectSwabian (Schwäbisch), largely that other Germans find Hall, a medieval gem, and, on the banks Schwäbisch the east are A bit to of urban pleasures. been spas of Baden-Baden have The audacious city of Ulm. of the Danube, the architecturally since Roman times. modern and ancient life of soothing the stresses with its narrow lanes and hilltop fortress,still gather in ancient beer halls while Tübingen, not far from the Swiss border, makes an ideal base charm. Flowery Freiburg, oozes positively frontier. on the French and the rolling vineyards of Breisach, for exploring the Black Forest is a huge draw, especially in summer. and Austria, Switzerland Baden-Württemberg Baden-Württemberg A6 A62 A5

BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG northeast ofDonaueschingen), Vienna,Budapest andbeyond. northeast Donaueschingen (65kmeastofFreiburg) toUlm(190km Follows themightyDanube fromtheunexcitingtownof Donautal-Radweg Bodensee-Weg clude thefollowing: paths. withplenty of Those watery viewsin- ofwith thousands kilometres of paved bike Baden-Württemberg isacyclists’paradise, CYCLING dayhikes.and cansuggest suitable around lakes. maps sell Localtouristoffices many of forests, themthrough alongrivers or ing andhikingtrailstoonumeroustocount, Baden-Württemberg bywalk- iscrisscrossed HIKING 392 Activities Activities (14km) To Munster F RANCE BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG Airport Euro B317 Colmar Strasbourg Basel Oberstein Idar BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG •• Activities ••Activities BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG Airport Brisach Louis Neuf- Rhine B31 Strasbourg St River Kaiserstuhl PALATINATE RHINELAND- (560m) A6 B33 am Rhein Breisach Lörrach Rust Weil A5 B500 Karlsruhe-Baden-

Goes all the way around Lake Constance. Goesallthewayaround Lake Rhine Rheinfelden Feldberg Baden Airport (1493m) River (www.donau-radweg.info, inGerman) A65 Schopfheim Freiburg Höllental Furtwangen Haslach A61 Iffezheim Offenburg Kirchzarten Gengenbach Triberg Wolfach Black Forest Oberkirch Ludwigshafen Schluchsee B27 Alpirsbach Karlsruhe Baden- Alzey Titisee- Neustadt Baden Worms Bonndorf N4

A67 Rhine Rastatt St Georgen Schaffhausen A81 Speyer A5

(660m) Mt Merkur Rhine S WITZERLAND

Freudenstadt River River Pforzheim Schwenningen Villingen- Donaueschingen A8 Mannheim B31 Schwetzingen Reichenau Heidelberg Singen Sindelfingen Radolfzell Sinsheim Frankfurt-am-Main (45km) To FrankfurtAirport(35km); Neckar Island Tuttlingen Maulbronn A6 Stuttgart Neckarsteinach Mainau

Konstanz River Island B313 Überlingen Heilbronn Hechingen .com) Tübingen

of Mannheim. airportsinclude Otheruseful Tübingen, Stuttgart andHeidelberg. Tübingen, Stuttgart (more orless)to Villingen-Schwenningen northward for357kmfrom River FollowstheNeckar German) discount airline Württemberg’s largest, is amajor hubforthe airport Stuttgart &Around There Getting (415km). toMannheim bank fromBaselnorthward andmostoftheright bank (inFranceandthenGermany) Rhein Veloroute Rheintal-Weg Neckartal-Radweg beyond. and Breisach) toBaden-Baden,Heidelberg,Mannheim viaFreiburg (or westward toBaselandthennorthward

Burg Hohenzollern Neckar Danube

Romanshorn

Stuttgart Airport River A8 Constance . Frankfurt airportisabout 75kmnorth HESSE Birnau Lake Ludwigsburg Reutlingen River Salem Meersburg A81 B311 Württemberg B32 Esslingen A6 Göppingen Friedrichshafen Goes along the Rhine fromKonstanz GoesalongtheRhine Lindau Schwäbisch Kressbronn Ehingen B29 Biberach Follows the Rhine along all of its left alongallofitsleft FollowstheRhine

(www.stuttgart-airport.com) B19 B30 Ravensburg German Wings German (www.neckartal-radweg.de, in (www.neckartal-radweg.de, Hall Würzburg 30miles 50km 0 0 Bregenz (2km) B290 B19 Gmünd Schwäbisch To Ulm Ochsenfurt Aalen A7 Crailsheim lonelyplanet.com (www.germanwings

A7 A7 Rothenburg ob derTauber Memmingen BAVARIA Nördlingen Immenstadt B16 To Nuremberg Dinkelsbühl

, Baden- Danube Ansbach To Munich (45km) (140km) A3 River A8 A7 .de) Baden-Baden airport and theFrench cityof Mulhouse; Freiburg aswelltheSwisscityof Basel the lonelyplanet.com tended Hauptbahnhof Public (trainstation). stretchesstrasse, southwestfromthewell- The mainpedestrianshopping street, König- ORIENTATION were reconstructed. painstakingly After WWII, thecity’sarchitectural treasures of theWürttembergcame theroyalseat family. trade centre, andintheearly14thcenturyitbe- around AD950.By1160itwasabooming Streamhence thename)onNesenbach if upmarket. cultural andnightlife scenesare allvibrant, its ownvineyards!Theshopping,restaurant, has is itwell-endowedwithparks,buteven city isoneof thegreenest inEurope –notonly relaxed of prosperityandakeen style,the sense motor-minded withanairof racing.Blessed thataremuseums of sure thepulse the toset number of first-rate artcollectionsandtwo Mercedes-Benz andPorsche, Stuttgart hasa Perhaps bestknownastheheadquarters of % STUTTGART mayrequirestanz) changes. several (such asfrom Freiburg toTübingen orKon- est canbepretty trips slow,andlong-distance chapter. PublictransportacrosstheBlackFor- village city,townandmountain every inthis Black Forest. fromtheNorthern France, acrosstheRhine airport Strasbourg Stuttgart beganasastudfarm( almost serve Trains, tramsand/orbuses are generallyavailable athotel reception desks. throughout theentireA version metropolitan area good for publictransport costs€12.30.They usagewithinthecity limits(validforanadultandtwochildren uptoage17).public transport from theairport. Plus on culturalevents andleisure including thetouristoffice’sguidedtours. activities, The The three-day DISCOUNT TICKETS ; 0711 /pop589,000 EuroAirport Friedrichshafen airport Friedrichshafen All four passes can be purchased at the tourist office, including the airport branch. All fourpasses canbepurchased atthetourist office, includingthe airport If youhave goodforunlimited ticket ahotel for€9youcanget athree-day reservation, (€17.50)alsoaffordsunlimited bus,tramandmetrotravel withinthecity,includingtoand (www.euroairport.com)

STUTTGART ••Orientation STUTTGART Stuttcard

(www.strasbourg.aeroport.fr)

(Baden Airpark;www.badenairpark

(€12)getsyoufree entrytomostpublicmuseumsaswelldiscounts (www.fly-away.de) , which serves , which serves ‘Stuotgarten’ Karlsruhe- ; and in , office inside Marien-Hospital, which is 3km southwest of whichis3kmsouthwestof office insideMarien-Hospital, 37; foreign-language andtravel sections. internet caféinthebasementofacinema. h office. thetourist southof) laundry inthearcadebehind(just Ätlce Bereitschaft Ärtzliche Services Medical SB-Waschsalon Trieb Laundry OneCyberBar Level Cyber Café Center &Internet City Call Naser Café Access Internet Zentrum Deutsch-Amerikanisches Centres Cultural Wittwer Bookshops INFORMATION Stäffele hillsides –more than500citystreets endin about 3kmnortheastof theHauptbahnhof. straddlestheNeckarRiverof Cannstatt Bad most 4kmtotheNeckarRiver. Thedistrict stretch northeastward fromSchlossplatz al- ofsections theSchlossgarten (agrassypark) Schlossplatz andSchillerplatz. Thethree squares include onornearKönigstrasse & holidays) hr €2; relations. 17; can Center; 10pm) Upthestairsbehindtrack4. Steep gradesareSteep commononStuttgart’s h h 9am-midnight Mon-Sat,noon-midnightSun)Astylish h 7pm-7am, 7am-7pm Sat, Sun & holidays) A doctor’s 7pm-7am, 7am-7pmSat,Sun&holidays)Adoctor’s 2-6pm Tue-Thu) PromotesGerman-American (staircases). ( 9am-midnight Mon-Sat,11am-midnightSun % % (KlettPassage; per hr€2; (in the Hauptbahnhof; perhr€5; (intheHauptbahnhof; 250 70;Königstrasse30)Abookshopwith 228 180;www.daz.org;Charlottenplatz (Königstrasse 22;perhr€4.50; ( ( h % 5am-midnight) Self-service 5am-midnight) Self-service 262 8012; Böheimstrasse 262 8012;Böheimstrasse (Eberhardstrasse 14;per (Eberhardstrasse h (German-Ameri- 9am-11pm) Stuttcard h 6am-

393 BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG The city’slargest. up thestairs behindtrack4. the Schlossplatz. There’s alsoabranchintheHauptbahnhof, Post office Post Union &Western Reisebank ATMs exchangebureau Express American Money Hospital Katharinen are closed. Staffedthe Hauptbahnhof. whenregular medicalpractices 394 Currency exchange. behind track11; 1;

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Staatsgalerie , whose collectionof, whose 14th-to20th- (StateTheatre) andthe (MiddlePalace Garden).Here beer garden (Lower Palace Garden)stretches STUTTGART ••Sights STUTTGART (UpperPalace Garden), (State Gallery; (StateGallery; and,weatherpermit- 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 20 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 C3 C1 C1 B4 C1 B3 B3 B4 B3 C1 B3 B3 B3 B3 C1 C2 B2 A1 C1 B2 Zeppelin...... Staatstheater...... (see 53) Staatsgalerie...... Rathaus...... Olgabau...... Neues Schloss...... Landtag...... Königsbau...... Imbiss zumBrunnenwirt...... Food Market...... Calwer-Eck-Bräu...... Amadeus...... (see 5) Wirt amBerg...... Steigenberger Graf Museumstube...... InterCity Hotel...... Hotel Unger...... Hotel Centro...... Hostel Alex30...... DJH Hostel...... Der Zauberklehrling...... Landesmuseum...... (see14) Württembergisches Württembergischer Stiftskirche...... EATING SLEEPING usvri...... B2 Kunstverein...... Rosensteinpark % Mittlerer Mittlerer 470 400; Landtag Unterer Unterer

, ness’ but which they themselves see as‘thrift’, ness’ but which they themselves see Roth andWilliBaumeister. include worksbyOttoDix,Dieter highlights features 20th-century andcontemporary art; Opened in2005,thismunicipalart museum impressivelynight illuminated from within. Wed &Fri) around €8/6.50; specialexhibitions adult/student &senior€5/3.50,during KleinerSchlossplatz1; www.kunstmuseum-stuttgart.de; is thenew Baden-Württemberg. representingfountains rivers theeight of the for itsculturalriches. Inthemiddlestands Stuttgart’s mainpublicsquare andashowcase the Oberer Schlossgarten) hof. Halfway down(andcontiguouswith 1km southwestwardfromtheHauptbahn- shopping precinct thatstretches for abitover lessly cleanandconspicuouslywell-heeled is thepedestrians-only by James Stirling. tubes andgreen windowframeswere designed for what other Germans might call‘miserli- might for whatotherGermans lent of about €500,000.Stuttgarters, known by thecityin1981forequiva- bought Dominating thewestsideof the square The focusof Stuttgart’scommerciallife Out front stands Out frontstands König WilhelmJubileeColumn , bydayasemireflective glasscube,by 36 40 39 38 37 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 28 B1 B4 B3 A3 D3 A3 B1 B1 A3 D4 D2 C4 B3 D2 B3 B2 C3 C2 B2 Kunstmuseum Stuttgart h Flower Market...... Hertz...... (see 58) Europcar...... (see 58) Avis...... Königsbau Passagen...... (see21) Flea Market...... Zap Club...... Variété imFriedrichsbau...... Staatstheater...... Romeo's Kiste...... Kommunales Kino...... King's Club...... Dilayla...... Die Röhre...... Ambo Cinema...... Palast derRepublik...... Deli...... Beer Garden...... Weinhaus Stetter...... Nirvan...... Markthalle...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Bus Station...... 10am-6pm Tue, Thu,Sat&Sun,to9pm Alexander Calder’s Königstrasse

is the , flanked by

( Schlossplatz % , aspot- 216 2188;

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, , BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG Wilhelm Iandnow thehomeof gov- state once theresidence of kings Friedrich Iand is thelate-baroque/neoclassical temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. founder of Tübingen University. Now theold of Eberhard, Württemberg’s first duke and the the archway justeastof theAlte Kanzlei is inthe centre. stands statue whose Through after thepoet-dramatist Friedrich Schiller, (Old Chancellory),isSchillerplatz, named the othersideof theRenaissance bronze steed. of ona Wilhelmlookingnoble andserious Planie is ernment ministries.Justsouthacrossthe Wed, longerhoursforsomeexhibitions) 2; adult/studentfrom€5/3; verein copper cupola,isthe Dresdner Abittotheeast,toppedbya Bank. example of 1950sarchitecture that’shometo isthe jacent toKönigstrasse, many’s moststylish interior-design shops. Stilwerk On thetoptwofloors of thecomplex’swestern market shoppingmall,the Königsbau gone upconsiderably. asthework’svaluehas now quite satisfied initially wentballisticover thecostbutare 396 Dominating theeastsideof Schlossplatz Just to the north is the classical, colonnaded Just tothenorthisclassical, colonnaded A shortblocksouthof Schlossplatz, on On thenorthsideof theSchlossplatz, ad- MOVE OVER! out ofnowhere intherear-view mirror,angrilyflashingitslightstopress itsurgent demand: are given etiquette every aroughlessoninautobahn timeaMercedes,BMWorPorsche appears remain where theonlylimitsare warpdrive andamotorist’sownnerve. Here, unwitting foreigners work,noisepollutionregulationsconstruction forbuilt-up areas andtrafficjams. Butlongstretches biggest suchnetworkafter theUSA–have restrictions of130kmper hourorlessduetoendless 95% ofallautoaccidentsinGermanyinvolve drivers travelling lessthan100kmperhour. the driver toconcentrate fullyonthetrafficinfrontofvehicle’. The AvD carclubargues that Auto than 200km(125miles)perhourwithnothreat ofafine? few realms where Germansthrowallcautiontothe wind.Where elsecanyoutravel atmore to rulesandregulations, isoneofthe andforitspassionate environmentalism,theautobahn a pleasure asTeutonic asbeerandbratwurst:fast driving. Inasocietyfamousforitsadherence When HermantheGermaneasesbehindwheelofhisjet-black Mercedes,he’srevving upfor METAL THE TO PEDAL Altes Schloss Altes Ironically, however, all but one-quarter of Germany’s 11,000km of autobahns –thesecond- ofGermany’s11,000kmautobahns Ironically, however, allbutone-quarter Germans argue The vehemently magazine toupholdtheircommandoftheautobahn.

STUTTGART ••Sights STUTTGART ( has claimed that ‘the danger of being overtaken dropssharplyat200kmperhour,allowing hasclaimedthat‘thedangerofbeingovertaken section are section more thanadozenof Ger- % , which in2006 wasreborn asanup- Karlsplatz 223 370; www.wkv-stuttgart.de; Schlossplatz 223 370;www.wkv-stuttgart.de; , adornedwitha large statue , where you’llfindastatue h Württembergischer Kunst- Württembergischer 11am-6pm Tue-Sun, to8pm Königsbau Passagen , which putson Olgabau Neues Schloss Alte Kanzlei Alte , afine , .

on thehour. rams above theclockontowerlockhorns arcaded courtyard,rebuilt after thewar, displays colourfulglassobjects.Intheornate Württemberg crownjewels.Anewsection the material culture tothe of theancientCelts presented exhibitionsonthemesrangingfrom incl audioguide€3/2; Landesmuseum palace holdstheexcellent Stadion (€2.20). Stadion lineto Gottlieb-Daimler-take theS1 S-Bahn the citycentre; toget there withoutwheels bank of theNeckar about4kmnortheastof isontheright Rooms.The museum Legend including various‘firsts’ ondisplay inthe and takes youpast180gleamingvehicles, visitors alike. Avisit beginsonthetoplevel in 2006,gets rave reviews fromlocalsand concession €8/4; 100;adult/ .mercedes-benz.com/museum; Mercedesstrasse new destinedtobecomealandmark,the seems futuristicstructure inafantastic that Housed Motorcar Museums building canbebuilttaller). late-Gothic high towers (bylaw,noStuttgart the reconstructed historic musicalinstruments.Nexttoitstands h seum –isthe statue by aBacchus Stiftsfruchtkasten In Schillerplatz’ southwestern corner–inthe 10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

(Schillerplatz 1; admission free with Landesmuseum ticket; (Schillerplatz 1;admissionfree withLandesmuseumticket; Mercedes-Benz Museum Museum Mercedes-Benz h (

% 9am-6pm Tue-Sun &holidays) , a former wine depot topped , aformerwinedepottopped h 279 3400;Schillerplatz6;adult/student Stiftskirche , which displays allsortsof 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) , withitstwin61m- Württembergisches Württembergisches ( % lonelyplanet.com Instrumenten Mu- Instrumenten 173 0000;www , withwell- Firmen , opened 1; admissionfree; be transformedbysomeboldarchitecture. the districtof willalsosoon Zuffenhausen, & holidays) lonelyplanet.com still have someolderterraced-style vineyards; (see p392 ). Alongtheriver, hills thesteep here –infactit’spartof theNeckartal-Radweg swimming isout,butthere’s agreat Thewater ishardlypristine,so with height). northeast of theHauptbahnhof (Eythrhymes Neckar (andontheU14line)about 7km Max-Eyth-See barbecueequipment–flocktothe portable and old–includingTurkish familieswith Rosensteinbrücke. 52,55or56to helma ortheU13buses penguins. Toget there, take theU14to Wil- lionsand bathing elephantsandfeeding sea in 1839,itskid-friendly attractionsinclude about 3kmnortheastof thecentre. Founded (contiguous withtheUnterer Schlossgarten) h 4pm&inwinter€7.40/3.70; under 28yr€10.80/5.40,after % Garten Zoologisch-botanischer feature attheenormouslypopular Animals andplantsfromaroundtheworld Parks Neuwirtshaus (€2.20). lineto takeget theS6S-Bahn tothemuseum, arrange afactorytour(minimumage: 18).To ing sportscars in1948.Call produced sincethecompanyfirst beganmak- (four timesasmanythecurrent exhibition) ‘power andpassion’–willdisplay80vehicles thecompany’sflagshipqualitiesofshowcase –designedtomain open),thenewmuseum (until which timetheoldpremises willre- forearly2008With itsinaugurationset The On warmsummerdays,Stuttgarters young to Obertürkheim. to Obertürkheim. back (alsoontheS1)and, ifyoulike, to Untertürkheim buses 62and65from Obertürkheim) by viaUhlbach(served trainstation(on theS1),6kmeastofHauptbahnhof, Obertürkheim totheMax-Eyth-See ( and goesnortheast above ). The youfromthe otherisacircuitthattakes atthePragsattel lightrailstation (on theU5orU6line) oftheHauptbahnhof 3km duenorth arethat someoftheworld’smostadvanced motorcarfactories justover thehill.Onebegins given trailsthatheadthroughvineyards solushandpastoralyou’llhardlybelieve totwowalking The VINEYARDSTUTTGART’S TRAILS 8.15am-nightfall) 540 20;www.wilhelma.de; Rosensteinpark;adult/student See Besenwirtschaft on See Besenwirtschaft p399 fordetailsondiningoptions. Stuttgarter Weinwanderweg Porsche Museum , 6kmnorthwestof thecentre in , alake onthe andparkright h STUTTGART ••Tours STUTTGART , which isinthe 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat,Sun 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, ( % (Zoo & Botanical Gardens; (Zoo &BotanicalGardens; 911 5685;Porscheplatz

% Rosensteinpark 911 5384to (www.stuttgarter-weinwanderweg.de, inGerman)isthename Wilhelma bike path bike

riety of boatexcursions on the NeckarRiver in August. Beginsonthelastweekend and theOberer Schlossgarten. year’s vintagesfromhundreds ofboothsonSchlossplatz during thesecondweekofAugust. during food that’sheldonSchlossplatz,ThursdaytoSunday Weindorf Sommerfest annual events. Stuttgart playshosttoanumberof notable FESTIVALS &EVENTS spots. out-of-the-way architecture peopletobeautiful, andtaking easy-going fellow whoreally loves thecity,its €100, Sat,Sun&holidays€125) for4peopleMon-Fri 1138; www.stadtrundfahrt-stuttgart.de; with German) tour(inEnglish, French,hour taxi Spanish or Many recommend peoplehighly a2½- taking Taxi and beginatthetouristoffice( p394 ). & SunNov-Mar) Tower€17/13.50; mission toTV Stadt-Rundfahrt €7; cluding the1½-hour runsavarietyofThe touristoffice tours, in- &Bus Walking (on theU14). Cannstatt from itsdockatWilhelmainBad (from €7.40;free onyourbirthday)departing ( From late Apriltolate October, Boat TOURS years oldandare protected landmarks. sheds) thatdotthehillsideare more than200 many of thelittle %

h 5499 7060;www.neckar-kaeptn.de) 11am, also 5pm Fri Apr-Oct) 11am, also5pmFri A 10-day event where wine-makers sellthe where wine-makers A10-dayevent Anopen-airfestival withlivemusicand . Bothare inEnglishandGerman (City CoachTour;adult/concessioninclad-

Anselm Vogt-Moykopf Wengerter Häuschen Wengerter Stadt-Spaziergang , aknowledgeable and h andthe2½-hour 1.30pm daily Apr-Oct, Sat 1.30pm dailyApr-Oct, operates ava- Neckar-Käpt’n (

% (City Walk; 0172-740

(tool 397

BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG statue ofstatue avintnergreets you atthisfamily- rooms. superclean family-run placewith14spiffy, centre bankof ontheright theNeckar. It’s ing groundabout 4km northeastof thecity 12a; s/dfrom€60/85,s without bathroom€50; 398 nearest stopisOlgaeck. U-Bahn nished. Situated onaquiet backstreet. The 12rooms arerun hotel, whose nicely fur- amBerg Wirt Midrange prints onthewall. practical andcompact,withnature-themed €35/65) Büchsenstrasse24;s/dfrom€55/85,withoutbathroom German; 5.30-10pm or11pm,closedSun&holidays) room €30/45,notinclbreakfast; .museumstube.de; Hospitalstrasse 9;d€65,s/dwithoutbath- Olgaeck stop. the Hauptbahnhof, take U5, U6orU7tothe available. Bike rental costs€6perday.From lockers Kitchen facilitiesare foryourstuff. school–style with basicfurnishingsandhigh decorated publicareas and32roomsoutfitted opened in2004,hascolourfulandcreatively €70, breakfast €6; exanderstrasse 30;dm€19,s€20-29,d€50,withtoilet&shower 5. is onlevel with aliftrunningdownthemiddle,reception ing. Reached column viaaglass-and-steel rooms, allwithbathroom,andbicyclepark- Amenities here includetwo-orfour-bed east (upthehill)fromHauptbahnhof. this luxurious,309-bed hostel is800msouth- 17.10; .de; Haussmannstrasse27;dm1st/subsequentnight€20.30/ station. S-Bahn about 1kmsoutheastof Cannstatt theBad tent/car €6/4/2.50; 40,BadCannstatt;perperson/ Mercedesstrasse -stuttgart.de; Stuttgart Campingplatz Budget SLEEPING Weihnachtsmarkt tomid-October.Bad CannstattfromlateSeptember in isheldoverthree consecutiveweekends this hugeevent Volkfest Cannstatter Schlossplatz fromlateNovemberto23December. Schillerplatzand is heldinthecitycentre onMarktplatz, DJH hostel Hotel Centro Hotel Museumstube Alex30 Hostel h Avery 11rooms are centralhotel whose STUTTGART ••Sleeping STUTTGART 24hr; ( ( % ni % pn ( h (

664 7470;www.jugendherberge-stuttgart % % ( Germany’s largest Christmas market market largestChristmas Germany’s 241 865; fax 236 1348; Gaisburgstrasse 241 865;fax2361348;Gaisburgstrasse % year-round) 838 8950;www.alex30-hostel.de;Al- 585 3315;www.hotelcentro.de in ) Stuttgart’s version of Oktoberfest, versionofOktoberfest, Stuttgart’s Totally renovatedTotally in2006, Thisprivately-run hostel, ) ( 296 810;fax1204359;www % 556 696;www.campingplatz h A riverside camp- reception 10am-3pm& A modest,

pn ) A each afeast fortheeyes.Ithassomepretty hotel’ has17 namedrooms,each uniqueand .stuttgart.steigenberger.de; Arnulf-Klett-Platz7;s/dfrom cigar lounge. Therestaurant hasone Michelin fitnessstudio,bistro,barand pool, sauna, elegant oravant-garde. Amenitiesincludea 189 roomsinavarietyof styles:classical, hof, thissuperluxurious,five-star hotel has €195/220; apprentice’. far-out bathtubs.Thenamemeans‘sorcerer’s Rosenstrasse 38;d€140-280) Der Zauberlehrling Top End are beingaddedin2007. additional floors, includingafitnessstudio, inyourroomfornoextracharge.served Two erous breakfast featuring buffet smoked fish, with business travellers. It’sknownforitsgen- pn Sat&Sunfrom€79/99; enstrasse 17;s/dfrom€102/125,Fri, Friday, SaturdayandSundaynights. are rooms.Rates comfortable cheapest on thisplacehas112hotel-ish but bahnhof), (it’s inthesouthwestcornerof theHaupt- Hugely convenient ifyou’re arrivingbytrain Arnulf-Klett-Platz 2;s€77-136,d€77-151,breakfast €12) 25; Schlossgarten. gardenisintheMittlererThe city’sbestbeer bars thatcater tostyle-conscious yuppies). has lotsof trendy threeStrasse, blockswestof Königstrasse, charactertale ‘LuckyHans’. Theodor-Heuss- depictingthecaged fairy- fountain German Hans-im-Glück Platz–alittlesquare witha that spilloutontowhat’sunofficially called littlecafé-pubs hasseveral Eberhardstrasse, twoshortblockswestofTiny Geissstrasse, places withregional specialitiespredominate. andPfarrstrasse), traditionalRosenstrasse old labourers’ quarter Bohnenviertel (between Further eastacross Hauptstätter inthe Strasse, alongandnearEberhardstrasse. Königstrasse, –afewtables blockseastof thesouthernendof them very chic andquite afew withoutdoor There are lotsof eateries andpubs–manyof EATING &DRINKING star. Imbiss zum Brunnenwirt GrafZeppelin Steigenberger Unger Hotel h InterCity Hotel InterCity 11am-2am Mon-Thu, &Sat,4pm-2am 11am-3am Fri ) Avery central116-roomhotel popular

pna Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online atBook lonelyplanet.com ( % ( ( %

% 209 90;www.hotel-unger.de; Kron- ) Facing theHauptbahn- Szenekneipen 237 7770; www.zauberlehrling.de; 237 7770;www.zauberlehrling.de; 225 00;www.intercityhotel.com; Thisultrachic ‘design ( % 245 021;Leonhardsplatz ( % (clubsand 204 80;www

sausage stand, nextdoortoGaststätte Brun- stand, sausage 13.80; h with sausage) and agreatwith sausage) The wine selection. lonelyplanet.com toilet –with signsreading ‘Schwaben Bräu’ barisactually akiosk–once apublicbeer h different vintages. attached specialities such as viertel placehassolid,good-value regional till3pm. (€5 to€8.50)isserved (lamb, fish andvegetarian). Thelunch menu where you’llfinddeliciousPersian dishes low Persian restaurant, musicatthisbasement costs €13.50. Sundaybrunch, availableon tap. till3pm, Swabian-style foodandhasDinkel Acker great one-time orphanage, thisplaceserves 10am-midnight Sat&Sun) €7.80-14.90, salads€4.50-8.80; all-you-can-eat menufor€9.99until5pm. a Stuttgartspeciality.OnSundaythere’s an ing Swabian-Bavarian fare, includ- floor, serves Gemütlich &Sat,from5pmholidays) 9am or10am-1am,to2amFri drivers. from passingvagrantstoMercedes coupé this localinstitutiondrawsaneclecticcrowd– wurst half-chic, (€2.40to€3.20).Half-grungy, Stuttgart’smostfamousCurry- nenwirt, sells Sun &holidays) Palast derRepublik Weinhaus Stetter Amadeus Calwer-Eck-Bräu Nirvan ner, usuallyfeaturing typicalSwabiandisheslike restaurant where peoplecandrinkandpurchasethenewvintage. lunchanddin- They alsoserve in the pork belly, liver, lard, sausage and smoked meat, served withpeasandothervegetables).pork belly,liver, meat,served lard,sausageandsmoked andtheevil-sounding stew ofslicedpotatoes,noodlesandbeef) the frontoftheirhomestoindicate thatthey’re openforbusinessasa toMarch,winegrowersthroughouttheregionFrom aboutOctober attachabroom BESENWIRTSCHAFT which hasaromanticvaulted theS1toUntertürckheim). winecellar(take 149; Strümpfelbacher Strasse 40, Untertürkheim; 149; Strümpfelbacher Strasse40,Untertürkheim; Uhlbacher Strasse 31, Obertürkheim; Uhlbacher Strasse31,Obertürkheim; fabulous house built in 1550 (take the S1 to Obertürkheim), and theS1toObertürkheim), fabulous housebuiltin1550(take 11am-2am, to 3am Fri &Sat) 11am-2am, to3amFri 3-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pmSat) 3-11pm Mon-Fri, Maultaschensuppe h Stuttgart-area Some 11am-11pm) ( Stuttgarter Zeitung Stuttgarter Weinhandlung % (cosy)brewery-pub, uponthe1st Besenwirtschaften ( This quirkylittleBohnenviertel % 240 561; Eberhardstrasse 73;mains€3.50- 240 561;Eberhardstrasse STUTTGART ••Entertainment STUTTGART 292 678;Charlottenplatz17;mains ( Dinetothesoundsof mel- % Besenwirtschaften ( ( Linsen undSaiten % % Inthecourtyardof a 2224 9440;CalwerStrasse31; (€3.50;ravioli soup), 226 4887; Friedrichstrasse 27; 226 4887;Friedrichstrasse 240 163;Rosenstrasse32; h (wine shop) sells 650 (wineshop)sells This grandlynamed onthelastWednesdayofmonthduringvintagetimes. openevery year,butmostdon’t.Check noon-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Mon-Fri, ThisBohnen- h thatoperate every yearinclude 11am-midnight exceptSun&holidaysmid-Nov–mid-orlateFeb) (lentils h This 11am-midnight Tue-Sat mid-Oct–early Dec&lateJan–mid-Mar) 11am-midnight Tue-Sat mid-Oct–early Kartoffelsuppe Italian andSwabianrestaurants.Italian first-run filmsinfourhalls. Arnulf-Klett-Platz 3)Facing Screens theHauptbahnhof. cinema in the old Amerika Hausbuilding. cinema intheoldAmerika 23a)Anart Friedrichstrasse inGerman; -stuttgart.de, found at www.subculture.de (inGerman). onthenightlife andclubscenecanbe Details Clubs Kommunales Kino Ambo films: Cinemas thatscreen undubbed Cinemas Sat, phonestaffed till6pmMon-Fri) office; 8243; insidethetourist atthe purchased listings magazine(€1.30).Events tickets canbe kiosks. monthly available atthetouristofficeornews German-language(€1.80), aneasy-to-use cultural scenecanbefoundin onStuttgart’sexceptionallylivelyDetails ENTERTAINMENT 7am-4pm Sat) hall;Dorotheenstrasse4; (market h bar withfood. h their brew. oronthegroundsippingwho sitattables especially studentsandcounter-culture types, tion, itishugely popularwithyounglocals, and ‘Palast’ outside. Areal Stuttgartinstitu- Self-caterers Self-caterers cantrythe Deli 7.30am-1pm Tue, Thu&Saturday) 10am-apm, to 2am Thu, to 3am Fri &Sat) 10am-apm, to2amThu,3amFri ( % ( % Prinz 225 7712;www.kinostar.com, inGerman; (potatosoup), , which sells picnic fixin’s and has picnic fixin’sandhas , which sells 236 0200; Geissstrasse 7;mains€6.10-12.90; 236 0200;Geissstrasse D’Besa amKelterplätzle

(www.prinz.de/stuttgart.html) Lift Stuttgart Schlachtplatte ( Weingut Ruoff % Kartenvorverkauf desk Kartenvorverkauf Besenwirtschaft 3058 9160;www.koki h Gaisburger Marsch

or 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, h . food market (sauerkrautwith andthe S-Trip, 7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri,

( % Lift Stuttgart Achic café- published (Besen) , asmall isanother ( 321 224; Markthalle % (Marktplatz; (Marktplatz;

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BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG cept Sunday, starting at9.30pmor10pm. cept Sunday,starting leading jazzvenue, ex- withconcertsnightly the-wall bar,often jam-packed, isthecity’s Brandt-Strasse 2/1) as oneof thebestcompanies inEurope. (www.stuttgart-ballet.de)Ballet isrenowned music. Tickets atjust€8.The start Stuttgart for ballet,opera,theatre and Western classical 6) .de; Oberer Schlossgarten Staatstheater &Classical Music Theatre there take theU6toMaybachstrasse. theatre andcomedyperformances.Toget other musicgenres Also has virtuallynightly. the Hauptbahnhof, hostslive rock,jazzand Siemensstrasse 11) German; h Romeo’s Kiste Rock &Jazz Gymnasiumstrasse. Enter goingaftercome. from midnight. Gets inthemiddle.tioned right Heteros are wel- banquettes aroundthesidesandaDJposi- gay andlesbiandiscohasred-carpeted walls, h &Sat€10; CalwerStrasse21;admissionFri de, inGerman; Club King’s venues &Lesbian Gay live musicabout onceaweek. Over-30s get adiscountonWednesday.Hosts Attracts mainlyayounger, 18-to-26crowd. disco hasvery bar. moderndécorandacocktail thissprawling corner fromJosef-Hirn-Platz), the cellarof theSchwabenzentrum (aroundthe 10pm-6amorlaterSat) Wed, 9pm-2amThu,10pm-4amFri, Hauptstätterstrasse 40;admission€4-10; thetrees. byapaththrough Brandt-Strasse takes cars thehill.Linked through toWilly- a few metres awayanidentical ceilingof anabortedcurved vehicle tunnel– style concertandpartyvenue underthe and1am.Attractsamixednight crowd. ’70s and’80s.Thingsget mid- goingbetween lounging. Thesoundtrackismainlyfromthe andlotsofwalls, cosytables soft couches for orangedancing, thisdimlylitplacehasbright May-Sep) free; 400 Theaterhaus Zap Club Dilayla Die Röhre 4pm-2am Mon-Thu, &Sat) to3amFri 10pm-6am Wed-Sun, to 7am Fri &Satnights) 10pm-6am Wed-Sun,to7amFri h STUTTGART ••Shopping STUTTGART Alaid-back musicbarwith basement 9pm-4am, to 6am Fri &Satnights,from11pmlate 9pm-4am, to6amFri

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236 9527; Eberhardstrasse 49;admission 236 9527;Eberhardstrasse ( ( Ahugely popular,industrial- % 235 227; www.zap-club.de, in German; inGerman; 235 227;www.zap-club.de, % 226 4558;www.kingsclub-stuttgart. 299 1499; www.die-roehre.com; Willy- 299 1499;www.die-roehre.com; 203 2220;www.staatstheater-stuttgart 553 2805;HauptstätterStrasse35; 402 0720; www.theaterhaus.com, in 402 0720;www.theaterhaus.com, Thecity’spremier venue Thisplace,3kmnorthof h Thishole-in- Röhre 8pm or9pm-2am (tube) This In market Wings www.stuttgart-airport.com) Airport International Stuttgart Air THERE&AWAY GETTING gen (see p396 ) hassomeclassy designshops. along Königstrasse.ThenewKönigsbau the citycentre, where optionscanbefoundall upmarketping. Indeed, stores predominate in for tastings. haslistsofThe touristoffice vineyardsopen able here, they’re notreally exportingalot. average, sowhileTrollinger isreadily avail- consume wineatarate twicethenational from theSouthTirol inAustria. Stuttgarters red madefrom avarietyof grapeoriginally locals alsogoforTrollinger, afull-bodied the Stuttgartregion; mostare whites, but (Schillerplatz; For outdooraction,there’s a SHOPPING or U14toFriedrichsbau/Börse. cabaret productions.Toget there take theU9 Famous foritsexcellentvarietyshows and €19-40) 24;tickets Friedrichstrasse inGerman; richsbau.de, (€2.90). get from theairportto theHauptbahnhof S2 andS3trainstake about30 minutes to To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING one hour). tion (€11.70,69minutes) andUlm(€14.70, one hour),Schwäbisch Hall’s Hessental sta- toTübingen (€10, frequent regional services Munich (€39to€46,2¼hours). There are 5½ hours), Frankfurt(€44.60,1¼hours) and (€112, IC andICEdestinationsincludeBerlin Train signs. highway heim. Stuttgartisoften abbreviated to‘S’on toHeilbronn Constance) Lake andMann- the A81fromSingen (near Stuttgart, asdoes The A8fromMunich toKarlsruhe by passes &Motorcycle Car ofwalking distance each other. city. There are fourterminals, allwithineasy Many varietiesof wineare producedin Stuttgart isn’trenowned forbargain shop- Variété imFriedrichsbau Variété

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a Hauptbahnhof-based rental service, Call-a- a Hauptbahnhof-based rental service, and picksupbikes. Wordhasitthatby 2007 adult6hr/fullday€9.50/13,student€6/8) German; aBike Rent Bicycle lonelyplanet.com To order a taxi call To order ataxi Taxi for agrouptwoto five. better valueat€5.10forone person and€8.50 Mercedes-Benz andPorsche is Museums), the for twozones(including,instance, fahrtenkarte) ets are €1.80,andfour-ride tickets platz at1.11am,2.22amand3.33am. begin withN)departures fromSchloss- Saturday there are(theirnames buses night namesbeginwithR).OnFridayand whose to S6)andRegionalbahnlines(regional trains lines (suburbanrailnamedS1through U; underground inthecitycentre), S-Bahn namesbeginwith raillineswhose lines (light (tramway),Stadtbahn theStrassenbahn buses, man) network port From slowesttofastest, Stuttgart’s Transport Public at theHauptbahnhof (nexttotrack16). 2).Europcar,HertzLevel andAvis have offices Sixt have attheairport(Terminal offices 2, into thecentre). Österfeld (ontheA81;take theS1,S2orS3 town), which is4kmsouthof thecentre; and (ontheB27;take theU5orU6into strasse gers; convenient lotsincludeDegerloch Alsb- the citycentre forthedriver andallpassen- cheap parkingplusfreeafford transportinto options, available inmanyStuttgartsuburbs, hour.each subsequent Park-and-ride (P+R) about €2forthefirst hourand€1.50for Underground parkinginthecitycentre costs & Motorcycle Car (tramway). the Strassenbahn to Friday.Bikes or cannotbetaken onbuses (child’s ticket) from6amto8.30amMonday to S6)butyouhave tobuyaKinderfahrschein Friday. Bikes are trains(S1 allowedonS-Bahn to 8.30amand4pm6.30pmMonday charge lines,exceptfrom6am onStadtbahn Bike, willbeginoperating. For travel within the city,singletick- Avis, Budget, Europcar,Hertz, Nationaland You cantake alongyourbike free of consists of a Zahnradbahn (rackrailway), consistsof aZahnradbahn ( % (www.ssb-ag.de andwww.vvs.de, bothinGer-

cost€6.30.Adaypass,good 4207 0833; www.rentabike-stuttgart.de, in 4207 0833;www.rentabike-stuttgart.de, STUTTGART ••AroundStuttgart STUTTGART % 194 10or % public trans- 566 061. delivers (Mehr- decades later. 9am-2pm Sat) 6; www.ludwigsburg.de; Marktplatz of the chateau entrance. east of and400m southwest the train station more orlessinthemiddle,about750mnorth- edge of thecentre. ThebroadMarktplatz is (theB27),isatthenortheasternSchlossstrasse the towncentre. TheResidenzschloss, on Stuttgart, isatthesouthwestern edge of trainsfrom byS-Bahn served The Bahnhof, ORIENTATION &INFORMATION come ifyouwantto‘goforbaroque’. only filmacademy–istheperfect placeto wigsburg –hometoBaden-Württemberg’s 20-minute trainridenorthof Stuttgart,Lud- schloss (chateau) intheearly1700s.Justa built thevast,Versailles-inspired Residenz- is namedforDuke EberhardLudwig, who hood homeof thedramatist Friedrich Schiller, This neatandcultured littleplace, thechild- % Ludwigsburg bytheS1. served station, Obertürkheim Stuttgart’s citycentre, take bus61fromthe picnic. Toget toWürttemberg, 10kmeastof the countrysideandare aperfect placefora Nov) & holidaysMar-1 &Sat,10am-noon1-6pmSun Wed, 10am-noon&1-5pmFri adult/concession€1.50/0.70; -gaerten.de; The classical-style Russian Orthodox chapel. family castleandinitsplacebuiltadomed, just 30,Wilhelmtore downtheWürttemberg hoped tobeburiedhere. Whenshedied,aged such abeautifulplaceand seen that she’dnever berg (1781–1864),reputedly toldherhusband andwifetsar of King WilhelmIof Württem- geous valley. viewsdownintoagor- sweeping it affords hill southeastof Stuttgart.Covered withvines, family castleonthisabsolutely breathtaking the Württemberg familydynasty,hebuiltthe When Conrad von Württemberg established Württemberg bicycle. sible bypublictransportor,better still,by The region aroundStuttgartiseasilyacces- AROUND STUTTGART Ludwigsburg’s lovelyThe groundsoutsideafford viewsof Katherina Pavlovna, of daughter aRussian 07141 /pop88,000 Grabkapelle has excellent material inEnglish

iswhere hewasalsoburied (burial chapel;www.schloesser-und (burial tourist office tourist h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri,

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401 BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG adult/student to28yr/family€5/2.50/12.50; hand, asalways– atthe itmakes today–by thefinestuff purchase in theKeramikmuseum,be seen andyou can tory inthecastle 1758.Historicpiecescan (www.porzellan-manufaktur-ludwigsburg.de) and 1970;the ing andaccessoriescreated 1750 between which hasafinecollectionof originalcloth- Stuttgart; the from thecollectionsof in the Staatsgalerie baroquepaintings Gallery), which showcases €5/2.50; and three new sibly ornate, generously gildedrococogem, home tothe of thecomplex’s300thanniversary, isalso day andholidays. held at11amand3.15pmonSaturday,Sun- early November there are additionaltours begin at1.30pmdaily;frommid-March to 30minutes.every English-language tours text) of thechateau’s furnished interior begin minute tourswithanEnglish (inGerman rococo andEmpire decoration.The90- 452 rooms,isasymphonyof baroque, 6pm, lasttourat5pm) ( nificent, early18th-century Known asthe‘SwabianVersailles’, themag- SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES (Christmas market). and thebaroqueWeihnachtsmarktevents festivals, jazzperformances,cinema-related and canprovide onperformingarts details 402 www.schloesser-und-gaerten.de; Schlossstrasse www.schloesser-und-gaerten.de; and celain, faïenceandmajolica. withsomeprettyMuseum), por- spectacular % The chateau, refurbished in2004honour

Duke Karl Eugen ( ers duringtheannual The Residenzschloss gardensare transformedintoanimmaculately trimmedfestival offlow- BAROQUE INBLOOM helmstrasse). Blühendes Barock tickets arehelmstrasse). BlühendesBarocktickets birds. It’safabuloussettingforpicnic! Märchengarten sold 9am-6pm, to 7pm Sat & Sun mid-Mar–early Nov) sold 9am-6pm,to7pmSat&Sunmid-Mar–early entrances tothegardens. on Schlossstrasse(theB27).However, thatincludethechateau combotickets 182 004;www.schloss-ludwigsburg.de, inGerman, bon vivant, There’s Strasse (theeastern anentrancetothegardensonSchorndorfer continuationofWil- STUTTGART •• Around Stuttgart ••AroundStuttgart STUTTGART h 10am-5pm) Carl Eugen Appartement Eugen Carl Modemuseum museums established aporcelainfac- established , withits18buildingsand (Fairy Tale Garden),asmallJapanesegardenandan : the Keramikmuseum Keramikmuseum oy Barockgalerie (adult/student inclaudioguide

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.de) to Ludwigsburg-Hoheneck (one-way/return Open-air concerts,justasmallpartof Lud- ontheadjacentlake.to €10perhour)sail to mid-October you canhire them –onthepremises. Frommid-March the winesitmakessells –andletsyoutaste owned bytheWürttemberg family,which Sat) 060; chateau, therococo Schlosspark lake isyetanotherWürttemberg Napoleonic period. glittering parties, itsfurnishingsdate fromthe Sun 2Nov–mid-Mar) Nov,10am-12.30pm&1.30-4pmTue- & 1.30-5pmmid-Mar–1 30min touradult/concession€2.50/1.20; ace, thebaroque early 18th-centuryWürttemberg familypal- schloss, surroundedbyapark,isanother short ride on bus 427 (every 10minutes).short ride onbus427(every chateau iseither a20-to30-minute walkor a €14.60/19.60, two hours). Fromthere, the by more relaxing optionistotake aboatrun on somedaysinearlyMay andOctober), a theB27. just off ing lots500msouthof theResidenzschloss, 1km fromthetrainstation. rock entrance. Onfoot,thechateau isabout 422and425gototheBlühendesBa- buses linked tothechateau 421and427; bybuses to Ludwigsburg’s (€2.90),frequently Bahnhof linesgodirectlyStuttgart’s S4andS5S-Bahn THERE&AROUND GETTING here inthesummer. wigsburg’s rich culturalofferings, are held From mid-May (and tolate September If youcomebycar,there are twolarge park- About 2kmtothenorthweston from Bad Cannstatt (Stuttgart, see (Stuttgart,see Cannstatt fromBad p397 ) . Once used asasummerresidence,. Onceused it’sstill A 10-minute walknorthof theResidenz- Neckar-Käpt’n h wine tasting & sales 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm wine tasting&sales9am-6pmMon-Fri, . Thesceneof Duke Eugen’s

( % Schloss Favorite aviary Seeschloss Monrepos Monrepos Seeschloss 5499 7060;www.neckar-kaeptn filledwithexotic are onsaleatthe lonelyplanet.com boats h

h 10am-12.30pm ( % (from€8 tickets tickets 182 004; ( % 221 BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG NORTHERN lonelyplanet.com the Neckar. middle of about 200msouth of theAltstadt, the Royal Mile–runs east-to-westthrough the 1600m-longHaupstrasse –theso-called Schloss. Europe’slongest pedestrianzone, Neckar River fromBismarckplatz easttothe Heidelberg’s stretches Altstadt alongthe Orientation NATO headquarters asanimportant crawl. Thecityalsoserves nightlife thatmakes forapub itoutstanding of foreign students),heapsof traditionand student populationof 32,000(includinglots troops underLouisXIV. Todaythecityhasa and thenallbutdestroyedbyinvadingFrench duringtheThirtyYears’ devastated been War It wascreated inthe18thcenturyafter ithad townscape of remarkable architectural unity. famous university town,hasared-roofed from Heidelbeerenberg (HuckleberryHill). the factthatnameHeidelberg isderived tion tothecitymayhave somethingtodowith There isspeculation thatthewriter’s attrac- in observations bemused inHeidelberg,month stay recounting his began hisEuropeantravels withathree- .mark-twain-in-heidelberg.de), whoin1878 some of hisgreatest landscapes. loved thecity,which inspired himtopaint poet Britain’s Goethe. William Turneralso the the 19th-centuryromantics,mostnotably year. Theyare followinginthefootsteps of visitors, 3.5millionof whom flockhere each castlemake ithugely popularwith half-ruined sity atmosphere, excellentpubsandevocative Heidelberg’s baroqueoldtown,lively univer- % HEIDELBERG cultural activities. ways. Allhave andawealthof finemuseums Schwäbish Hall alley- foritsnarrowmedieval Karlsruhe foritsfanlike street layoutand Mannheim foritschessboard street grid, famed foritsmile-longpedestrianprecinct, of uniqueandenticingcities.Heidelberg is The northernthirdof hasanumber thestate Heidelberg, oldestandmost Germany’s Less starry eyedwas starry Less Mark Twain (www 06221 /pop143,000 NORTHERN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG ••Heidelberg BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG NORTHERN

(www.nato.int/lahd) A Tramp Abroad . . with pricey trainstationinternetaccess. with pricey onthewaytotracks, midnight) IntheHauptbahnhof Heidelberg Card. the boardwithafree telephone.Sells reservation Outfrontisahotel outsidetheHauptbahnhof. Right 9am-6pmMon-SatNov-Mar) Sun &holidaysApr-Oct, www.heidelberg.de; exhibits. andoccasional films,lectures Hasconcerts, Mon-Fri) .dai-heidelberg.de; Sofienstrasse12; regular doctor. casesjustdropby.Coststhesameasa but forlessserious Ahousecallispossibleifnecessary of theHauptbahnhof. officesare closed.Situatedoneblocknorth most doctors’ Sun &holidays,from1pmonWed)Formedicalcare when Eppenheimer Strasse35; your dirty dudsandpickthemuptwohourslater.your dirty Wed, 10am-3pmSat)Alaundrywhere youcanDIYorleave 1pm &2-6pmMon,Tue, 10am-2pm&3-6pm Thu&Fri, you exittheHauptbahnhof. language books. exchanges currency. building; 9am-1pm Sun&holidays)IntheHauptbahnhof €5/1.50, courtyard free from5.30pmor6pm tilldusk,gardens €5/1.50, courtyard &GrossesFass5.30pm or6pm, DeutschesApothekenmuseum till 431; adult/studentunder 28yradmissiontocourtyard partly ruined,red-sandstone the fromonhigh, Dominating theAltstadt SCHLOSS Sights Wetzlar Waschsalon office Tourist Reisebank Post Office postoffice Main Lounge Internet Card Heidelberg Institut Deutsch-Amerikanisches Bereitschaftdienst Ärztlicher the Jesuitenkirche. near Hauptstrasse, such asinthevicinityof There are anumber of internet cafésonor Information Brücke). Alte Brücke (alsoknownasKarl-Theodor- Brücke, whilenorthof theMarktplatz isthe north of Bismarckplatz,isTheodor-Heuss- Neckar’s northernbank:atthewestern end, events. Availableevents. office. atthetourist or discountedadmissiontomuseumsandsomecultural use andfree €26) Entitlesyoutounlimitedpublictransport Two bridges withthe linktheAltstadt

( % ( (Sofienstrasse8-10) h (Kettengasse 17; per 7kg €8.50; 17;per7kg (Kettengasse 241 65;Plöck79-81)Specialisesinforeign- ( % 7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat, 7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, (2/4days€14/26,2-dayfamilycard (Hugo-Stotz-Strasse 14) To the right as 14)Totheright (Hugo-Stotz-Strasse (per5min/hr€0.50/6; h 194 33; www.cvb-heidelberg.de, 194 33;www.cvb-heidelberg.de, h 9am-7pm Mon-Sat,10am-6pm 8pm-7am, 7am-8pmSat, ( % h ( 192 92;Alte % library 1-6pm Schloss h 607 30;www h 7am-

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(about 10min- g Ruprecht-Karls- Königstuhl 10am-6pm, to7pm , amini- Office Ticket Schloss Märchen- h 12 29 (al- every every and prints fromitssuperb collectionsinthe built from 1901to1905,displays rare books othek versity’s history insidetheAlte Universität. lonelyplanet.com except wheninuse) h you intothe which stillcovers thewalls. inscriptionsanddrawinggraffiti, by carving theirtime imprisoned here). passed Detainees stint intheKarzer wasconsidered reasons totake exams).Insomecircles,a (say, couldinterrupt forcritical sentences theirstay longer bread and water; delinquentsserving of were three daysandthedetainees fed only werebuilding. Sentences generally aminimum around thebacksideof theAlte Universität h % were intothe tossed anising, drinkingorjustplaingoofing around) convicted of (such assinging,wom- misdeeds versity buildings. and the dominated bythe18th-century on theAltstadt’s over townbutsomeof themosthistoricare in 1900. from 80nations.Womenwere first admitted 18 facultieswithmore than30,000students law, medicineandtheology–todayithas nally madeupof fourfaculties–philosophy, of imperialprince-electors. Origi- theseven in 1386byCountPalatinate Ruprecht I,one to prove one’smanhood(womenwere never Alte Universität...... Alte Aula...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Solarschiff...... Schloss...... Neue Universität...... Löwenbrunnen...... Kurpfälzisches Museum...... Karl-Theodor Statue...... Jesuit Church...... Hercules Fountain...... Heiliggeistkirche...... Apothekenmuseum...... (see12) Deutsches Brass Monkey...... Waschsalon...... A blocktothesouth, the From 1778to1914,university students A ticket totheStudentenkarzer alsogets The university’s facilitiesare scattered all 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-4pmTue-Sat Oct-Mar) 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Tue-Sat Oct-Mar, 10am-4pm Tue-Sat Oct-Mar, 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 543 554;Augustinergasse 2; adult/concession €2.50/2;

(University Library;Plöck 107-109;admissionfree) Neue Universität Alte Aula Alte andanexhibitionontheuni- NORTHERN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG ••Heidelberg BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG NORTHERN Universitätsplatz Studentenkarzer (Old AssemblyHall;Grabengasse1;

, theoldandnewuni- 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 B1 D2 B3 B2 A2 C1 B2 C2 C2 C1 B2 B2 Universitätsbibli- Alte Universität Alte Hotel AmKornmarkt...... Dubliner...... Universitätsbibliothek...... Studentenkarzer...... Mensa Marstall...... MaxBar...... KulturBrauerei...... (see 21) Georg...... Romantik HotelZumRitterSt Pension Jeske...... KulturBrauerei Hotel...... Hotel ZumPfalzgrafen...... Hotel VierJahreszeiten...... Hotel GoldenerHecht...... EATING SLEEPING , which is (Student Jail; de rigueur

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displays precious religious objects. the northsideof theNeckarabout 1kmdue To get there take tram4or5. marckplatz take bus33. continents. FromtheHauptbahnhof orBis- garden,featuresbotanical animalsfromfive steps tothetopof the placeoftant worship. Youcanclimb the204 today,it’saProtes- byCatholics; that used and byProtestants thepartused between church. From1706to1936there wasawall old market square, isasuperboldGothic The MARKTPLATZ Sat&SunNov-May) Tue-Sat, 1-5pm Sun&holidaysJun-Oct, Schatzkammer Ignatius LoyolaandStFrancisXavier. The ofstatues Christ,Faith (ontherooftop), St 1712and1750.Onthefaçadearebetween kirche the city’srecently renovated former ertel Just eastof Universitätsplatz isthe JESUITENKIRCHE Nov-Feb) €6/3; Tiergartenstrasse 3;adult/child3-18yr .zoo-heidelberg.de; 1-4pm Sun&holidays) houses 9am-4pmMon-Thu, 9am-noon& 9am-2.30pmFri, Feld 340;admissionfree; (University BotanicalGarden; you’ll findthe north of theHauptbahnhof. Thisiswhere h upstairs corner The university’s largest campusarea ison The delightful The delightful 10am-6pm, closedSun&holidays) , anattractive littlesquare dominated by Heiliggeistkirche Heiliggeistkirche h (Jesuit church), builtof red sandstone , just off theNeckarabitwestof, justoff the 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Mar & Oct, to5pm &Oct, to 6pm Mar 9am-7pm Apr-Sep, A2 C2 C2 D2 B3 B1 C2 C2 A2 B3 B2 B2

(treasury; admission€2; Botanischer Garten derUniversität Botanischer Garten Vetter imSchöneck...... Eldorado...... Bergbahn...... Heidelberg Tickets...... Gloria undGloriette...... Cave54...... Zum Sepp'l...... Destille...... Zur Herremühle...... Raja Rani...... Outdoor Food TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING Market...... Ausstellungsraum , oneof oldest. Germany’s Zoo Heidelberg h (built 1398–1441),onthe outdoor areas openallday,hot- % church spire 545 783;ImNeuenheimer .

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BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG steep vineyards andorchards, the path offers through from the touristhordes. Leading Neckar River, provides awelcome respite phers’ Walk),on thehillsidenorthof the A strollalongthe PHILOSOPHENWEG the river atthepalaeontology centre). Heidelberg Man (theoriginalisstored across a copyof thejawboneof a600,000-year-old lots of RomanandMerovingian items and berg andregional history.Displaysinclude century paintingsandsculptures, andHeidel- h Hauptstrasse 97;adult/concession€3/1.80,onSun€1.80/1.20; KurpfälzischesMuseum Tucked inbehind acourtyard,theexcellent KURPFÄLZISCHES MUSEUM pretty marks. hairy high-water children. Thebridge’s foundationbears some the princefathered almost200illegitimate which makes reference tothelocallegend that Statue bridge, thetower,is through to ensure youhave manychildren. Uponthe ensure youreturn toHeidelberg andthemice mirror forwealth,theoutstretched fingers to mirror andsurroundedbymice:touch the ofside, isastatue a attheentrancetobridgeOn theAltstadt, ALTE BRÜCKE rebornbeen asaMcDonald’s. lavishly decorated formerroyal lace. Onthesouthsideof theMarkt, the were chained toitandleftfacethepopu- fountain Nov–mid-Mar) &Sat,12.30-3pmSunholidays 11am-3pmFri mid-Mar–Oct, €1/0.50; 406 In thecentre of Marktplatz isthe one poorfellow ischoppedoffatthemiddle. grandees, cladinmailandbearingponderousswords. Somehave lostanarm,someahead,and the windowshave suffered. These are life-size andsimilar statuesofold-timeemperors,electors, inevery detailasiftheywerestill asperfect new.Butthestatueswhichare between ranked of ahouse. Manyfruitandflowerclusters, lions’headsare humanheadsandgrimprojecting asifithadbeenintended fortheinteriorcarved ofadrawing-roomratherthanfortheoutside to staineasily.The daintyandelaborate ornamentationuponitstwochieffrontsisasdelicately scorched ittwohundred yearsago. tint,anddoesnotseem The stoneisbrown,withapinkish Heidelberg Castle musthave beenvery beautifulbefore theFrench battered andbruised MARK TWAINONTHESCHLOSS 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) NORTHERN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG ••Heidelberg BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG NORTHERN , beingrenovated aswegotopress, h ; in medieval timespetty criminals ; inmedieval 11am-5pm Mon-Sat,12.30-5pmSun&holidays . focuses on15th-to20th- focuses Philosophenweg (Palatinate Museum;

brass monkey pharmacy Karl-Theodor- holdinga (Philoso- % Hercules 583 400; has on theNeckar. the NeckarbyTheodor-Heuss-Brücke. (Lions Fountain) atUniverstätsplatz.(Lions Fountain) Neckar andRhine. Neckar family feud. Alsooffers otherexcursionstotownsonthe by fourbrothersbetween1100and1250asaresult ofa anditsfourcastles,built toNeckarsteinach upriver day trip It’sanice aboutmidwaybetweenthetwobridges. Neckar mid-Apr–late Nov)Boatsdockonthesouthbankof return €10/6; to Neckarsteinach adult/child 4-12yr inGerman; www.rnf-schifffahrt.de, 50-minute excursions begin next to the Alte Brücke. to theAlteBrücke. 50-minute excursionsbeginnext An ultramodern,glass-toppedsightseeingboat whose adult/child 3-14yr/student€6/3/4; Simon Apr-Dec) guided tours runsEnglish-languageThe touristoffice Tours the surroundinghills. ruins andcountlessotherhikingoptionsin a Nazi-eraamphitheatre. There are several the walkway. to have losttheirheart(andvirginity) along lovers’ haunt,andmanyayounglocalissaid man philosopher Hegel. It’sawell-known that were such aninspirationtotheGer- greatthose viewsof andthecastle theAltstadt for awild party;andthethrice-yearly which theentire off pedestrianzone isclosed ahuge autumnfestivalin September), during clude Heidelberg’s in- mostpopular annualevents Festivals &Events Solarschiff Fahrgastschifffahrt Rhein-Neckar h The following two companies run cruises The followingtwocompaniesruncruises Paddle boatscanbehired at Atop theHeiligenberg isthe 11am-sundown Apr-Sep)

( Heidelberger Herbst Heidelberger % thatdepartfromtheLöwenbrunnen ( 411 925;3-/4-personpaddleboatper30min€6/7; Mark Twain, %

(adult/student €7/5; 409 284;www.hdsolarschiff.com; A TrampAbroad , onthenorthshore of (onthelastSaturday h h up to7timesaday h lonelyplanet.com Tue-Sun Mar-Oct) Tue-Sun Mar-Oct) ( % 10.30am Fri &Sat 10.30am Fri Bootsverleih Bootsverleih Thingstätte 201 81; (1880) fireworks fireworks , most slept here: thehotel wouldhave kept Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com the Philosophenweg andboatsfloatingin are fromthenorthernbankof theNeckar, urday inJuly).Forthelatter, thebestviews Sat- andsecond first SaturdayinSeptember festivals lonelyplanet.com -hecht.de; Steingasse 2;s/dfrom€66.50/91) also anicefitness room. niture anddazzlingwhite bathrooms. There’s The cheery, well-litroomshave solidpinefur- very convenient ifyou’re arrivingbytrain. a ratherdullarea neartheHauptbahnhof – A decentbutunexciting48-room hotel in 75;s€75-90,d€90-125; Kaiserstrasse .de, inGerman; rooms. family-run place,which has24well-appointed Polished pinefloors are anicetouch atthis 21;s€69-77,d€89-103; -pfalzgrafen.de; Kettengasse Pfalzgrafen Zum Hotel MIDRANGE of theSchloss. Receptionisatthebar. that are bothquietandclean;three have views basic,newlyrenovatedpub haseight rooms Heidelberg’s nightlife district,thisIrish-style .com; Hauptstrasse93;d€69-85; cookie-cutter, chain-hotel blandness. this 250-year-old are house theantithesisof ful anddecorated withflair,theroomsin h 2;dmnotinclbreakfast €20-35; delberg.de; Mittelbadgasse or Bismarckplatztake bus33. toilet andshower. FromtheHauptbahnhof lishment has487beds,mostinroomswith of theHauptbahnhof, thislively, noisyestab- Situated nearthezooabout2.5kmnorthwest 5;dm1st/subsequentnight€20.30/17.10; gartenstrasse office charges €3forahotel booking. ahead, especiallyforthehostel. Thetourist soarrive earlyinthedayorbook be difficult, can findingaplacetostay season In thehigh Bargains are thinonthegroundinHeidelberg. BUDGET Sleeping is areal treat. around town(includingUniversitätsplatz), late December),heldatfive publicsquares the river. Hotel GoldenerHecht Hotel Central Hotel Dubliner Pension Jeske DJH hostel The check-in 11am-1pm&5-7pm; Book accommodation online atBook lonelyplanet.com (usuallyonthefirst SaturdayinJune, Christmas market Christmas ( ( % % (

% ( NORTHERN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG ••Heidelberg BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG NORTHERN 873 0751;www.dublinerheidelberg 412 066; www.jugendherberge.de; Tier-412 066;www.jugendherberge.de; % 206 41;www.hotel-central-heidelberg 237 33;www.pension-jeske-hei ( % ( % (late November to pn 536 80;www.hotel-goldener 204 89;www.hotel-zum n ) Large, colour- In theheartof ) Goethe al- Goethe pn n n

) ) ) [email protected]; Kornmarkt7;s/d/qfrom€75/95/140,s/d next door. where bar-hopping isjustamatter of walking Untere (perpendicular toSteingasse), Strasse aredrinking establishments clustered along Quiet afew of Heidelberg’s mostpopular the Heiliggeistkirche andtheAlte Brücke). ing quite (between anumberonSteingasse iscrammedwitheateries,The Altstadt includ- Eating &Drinking luxurious lobby. of façadeand alet-downafter thefantastic are very butare abit comfortable inevitably 1693. The37rooms,darkandGermanic, theFrenchings tohave of attacks survived Marktplatz, isoneof thetown’sfew build- nearthe style building(1592),thisplace,right €70, d€140-200; Hauptstrasse178;s€90-130,lowseason .ritter-heidelberg.de; StGeorg Ritter Zum Romantik Hotel TOP END walls, woodfloors andcheerful décor. art. Theroomsare very andhave bright pastel with harmoniousdesignerstylingandmodern This 34-roomboutique-stylehotel greets you Leyergasse-kulturbrauerei.de; 6;s/dfrom€106/116; andwhitecurtains walls. 22 roomshave blueorred carpets,colourful Jahreszeiten. ontheriverfront, thehotel has can hardlyget more centralthanHotel Vier zeiten.de; Haspelgasse2;s/d/t/q€69/99/114/155; Bismarckplatz. neoclassical balconiesoverlooking bustling have creatively painted walls;somecomewith decked outinmodernwoodenfurniture and boutique hotel where roomsare the19sleek & Sun; Sat Bergheimer Strasse8;s/dfrom€82/97,€10lessonFri, showers. easyaccess tothespotlesshall ones afford views of theKornmarkt,whilecheaper kept rooms.Thepricierroomshave great favouritethis Altstadt well- has20pleasant, withoutbathroom€45/75) have viewsof theNeckar. welcome. Someof the13rooms,each unique, this family-runplacehave received awarm quite souppity.Everbeen since,guestsat the famousauthorhadclerkondutynot KulturBrauerei Hotel KulturBrauerei Denner Hotel AmKornmarkt Hotel Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Jahreszeiten Vier Hotel h reception 6am-9pm; p ) In anornate, late Renaissance– ( % Discreet andunderstated, 604 510;www.denner-hotel.de; (

% ( % ( % 502 980;www.heidelberger ni 905 830;hotelamkorn 241 64;www.4-jahres ) Analmost- ( % 1350; www p You ) 407 p

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BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG 17th-century mill.Rusticallyelegant. cuisine undertheancientwoodbeamsof a foodandinternationalclassic southGerman midnight) wood-panelled walls,pilfered signshanging student pubs,withfratphotosonthedark market two blocks northeastof theHauptbahnhof, and othergames. avail themselves of chessboards, playingcards Intheafternoon, patrons can basco sauce). called a as melon-flavoured schnapps andsomething indrinkssuch specialises (no foodisserved) the bar,thismellowandhugely popular pub & Sat) to 3amFri students are outnumbered bytourists. ambience of days yesteryear, these although the intothem.Retains with namescarved from theceilingandheavy woodentables it’s especiallypopularonweekend nights. of theMarktplatz. Perfect orapastis, forabeer &Sat) Fri €8.50-22.50; gardenwhenit’swarm. beer regional cuisineandhasa German It serves brewery hasthefeel of hall. anold-timebeer chandeliers ceilings,this micro- andhigh 19.50; meat, fish andvegetarian dishes. ofa bigselection breakfasts aswell salads, and apalmlike canopyof halogen Has lights. tourists, withwicker décor chairs, off-beat Bismarckplatz andthusabitawayfromthe informal café-restaurant, halfablockwestof €7.40-13.50; comfy atmosphere andlovely service. various kindsof (from€5.80).Ithasa sausages dishes, including per vats,andheartyGerman its ownmicrobrewed madeinhuge beer, cop- h of Universitätsplatz. student cafeteria islocated twoblocksnorth get afree lassi withanyorderover €2.50. Fast, cheap students Indianfood.Onweekdays 408 KulturBrauerei imSchöneck Vetter Marstall Mensa Rani Raja Self-caterers couldtry Self-caterers MaxBar Herrenmühle Zur Destille Sepp’l Zum Gekco Café 11.30am-1am, to 2am Fri &Sat) 11.30am-1am, to2amFri h NORTHERN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG ••Heidelberg BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG NORTHERN AFrench-style caféwith classicviews

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602 909;Hauptstrasse239;mains ( % (schnapps withTa- h Serves traditional, Serves 165 850;Steingasse9; This place serves This placeserves Handelshof super- Thiswell-liked 7am-8pm Mon-Sat) h 8am-1am, to2am h noon-2am, h An noon- ,

4; undubbed filmsthree timesaweek. of studentsandadmission isoften €4.50. largest andmostpopulardiscos.Itattractslots thisisoneofAlte EppelheimerStrasse, thecity’s and Strasse area Bergheimer house between usually Wed-Sat) AlteEppelheimerStrasse5; .com, inGerman; Hauptstrasse146) in German; Saturday at5.15pm. concerts (adult/student€3/2)dailyexcept the warmermonths there are 30-minute organ cred organ Saturdayat6.15pm.In musicevery €10/6/8)ofconcerts (adult/student/senior sa- able at areconcerts andotherculturalevents avail- andnewsagents.office Tickets for anddetails lesbian venues, canbefoundatthetourist turing clubs,pubs,restaurants andgay Meier plenty of concertsandtheatre performances. Heidelberg hasalively culturalscene,with Entertainment centuries. & Sat) 40 minutes). furt (€13.40,one hour)andStuttgart(€21, (€17,one hour),Frank- from Baden-Baden both FrankfurtandKarlsruhe. airport (€18,1¼hours, almosthourly). southwest of Bismarckplatz,withFrankfurt Hotel (Kurfürstenanlage 1–3),three blocks www.lufthansa-airportbus.de) and 120kmnorthwestof Stuttgart. Heidelberg is21kmsoutheastof Mannheim &Away There Getting Sundayfrom8.30pm. every has jamsessions and atleastonceaweek, (8.30pm tomidnight) (10pmto3am),hasconcerts on mostnights once playedhere. Itfunctionsasapub-disco many. ItsclaimtofameisthatLouisArmstrong tobetheoldeststudentjazzclubinGer-is said gasse 2;admissionfrom€5) or there’s an h Nachtschicht The north–southA5linksHeidelberg with Shuttle Airport Lufthansa’s undGloriette Gloria Heiliggeistkirche Cave54 There are at least hourly train services to/ There are atleasthourlytrainservices 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pmSat) 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, onMarktplatz, asthere for hasbeen (€1.80), a monthly events calendarfea- (€1.80),amonthlyevents Heidelberg Ticket Heidelberg

( % NeartheHauptbahnhof, inaware- 221 58; www.cave54.de, in German; Krämer- 221 58;www.cave54.de,inGerman;

( % outdoor foodmarket (Marktplatz) 438 550,5522;www.nachtschicht

Opened in 1954, this place Opened in1954,thisplace ( % A cinemathatscreens linkstheCrownPlaza

( (Continued on page 417) % 253 19; www.cinevent.de, 253 19;www.cinevent.de, Putsonhour-long 582 0000;Theaterstrasse

lonelyplanet.com ( % . (6am-1pm Wed 0621-651 620; h

10pm-5am, 10pm-5am, three shortblockswestof theAlte Brücke. (Continued from page 408) page from (Continued www.eldorado-hd.de, in German; Neckarstaden 52; per day €15; 52;perday€15; Neckarstaden inGerman; www.eldorado-hd.de, Bicycles canbehired from Around Getting lonelyplanet.com hands of the enhance its dimensions.The bigandlittle andatunnelillusion tothat drawsonlight the bridge.arched Chinese the paths the crosses baroqueentrance. Oneofrather Germanic which sportsminarets andadomeabove a Greek shrine,andthe ditorium builtinthecolumnedstyle of a include folliessuch as radiate fromaformalFrench gardenand by Versailles –thatare ajewel.Thegrounds dence, creating whimsicalgardens–inspired he madeSchwetzingen hissummerresi- Palatinate) region inthemid-18thcentury, (1724–99) inherited theKurpfalz(Electoral to 5pmNov-Feb) &Mar, to6pmOct Apr-Sep, garden8am-8pm 2pm &3pmSat,SunholidaysNov-Mar, 11am, 2pmFri, 11am-5pmSat,Sun&holidaysApr-Oct, Fri, €2.50/1.20/6.20 Nov-Mar; gardenonly€4/2/10Apr-Oct, €5.50/2.70/13.70 Nov-Mar, adult/concession/family€7/3.50/17.50Apr-Oct, gaerten.de; Schwetzingen can beadmired atthemagnificent The apexof baroquelandscaping German AROUND HEIDELBERG Hauptbahnhof totheAlte Brücke. Hauptbahnhof. Itcostsabout €12fromthe Hauptbahnhof toNeckarmuntzplatz. bahnhof. 11and33godirectly Buses fromthe BismarckplatzandtheHaupt-1, runbetween tram line5)andatticket machines. ets are soldbybusandtramdrivers (excepton Saturday) forone/five peoplecosts€5/8.Tick- 24-hour pass(alsovalidonSundayifstamped (www.vrn.de, inGerman) marckplatz, themainhubfor €16 forthewholeday. car parkscharge around€1.50perhourand osition. Thecity’swell-marked underground h When Prince-Elector Carl TheodorWhen Prince-ElectorCarl Taxis 11,21,33,34,41and42,aswelltram Buses Parking inHeidelberg isanexpensive prop- Inside the Tram 5linkstheHauptbahnhof withBis- 9am-noon & 2-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pmSat,2-6pm Sun) 9am-noon &2-6pmTue-Fri, Rokokotheater

( % 302 030) ( % clock Jagdschloss NORTHERN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG ••AroundHeidelberg BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG NORTHERN 06202-128 828;www.schloesser-und- (1752), with a deep-set stage (1752),withadeep-set onthefaçade (1700)were . Singletickets cost€2;a h lineupoutsidethe chateau tours10am-4pmTue- Temple Apollos Chinesische Brücke (HuntingPalace) is Moschee Eldorado public transport (Mosque), . (

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a block northeast oftheHauptbahnhof. a blocknortheast per hr€3)On thecornerofBismarckstrasse andKaiserring, Chat-Corner Internet café Internet Chat-Corner Information bit like galacticsectors. numeral isthebuildingnumber)that sounda addresses such as‘Q3,16’or‘L14,5’(thelatter east orwest–fromBreite Strasse. Theresult is from1to7asyoumoverise outwards–either artery, andfromLtoUeastof it.Thenumbers north theletters gofromAuptoKwestof this the southernendof Breite asyoumove Strasse), attheSchloss (at numeric designation.Starting instead, each rectilinear cityblockhasanalpha- The streets, laidoutonagrid,have nonames; at theirintersection. the east–westPlanken. Paradeplatz issituated more-or-less north–southBreite and Strasse largely shopping streets, pedestrianised the into fourquadrantsbytwoperpendicular, of andKaiserring.section Bismarckstrasse the southernedge of thecentre, near theinter- 5km tothenorthwest.TheHauptbahnhof isat Neckar (tothenortheast),which about meet (tothesouthwest)and theRhine tween along itssouthwestside. It’ssandwiched be- road, isalmostroundexceptforaflatstretch Mannheim’s citycentre, surroundedbyaring Orientation unique–streetquirky –indeed, layout. decent shopping.Mannheim isfamousforits onlypopmusicacademy)and to Germany’s lively culturalscene(it’sproudof playinghost of fun, but compensates withitsbig-citysense visitors few specificattractionsorthingstodo touristdestinations.Itoffers Top 100)German appear onanyone’slistof theTop10(oreven ing industrialcentre of Mannheim isn’tlikely to Just 21kmnorthwestof Heidelberg, thesprawl- % MANNHEIM twice anhour). Hauptbahnhof bybus710(€3.30;35minutes, minutes, twice anhour)andtoMannheim’s berg’s Hauptbahnhof bybus717(€3.30,30 south of Mannheim. It’slinked toHeidel- autobahn, 10kmwestof Heidelberg and8km time more easilyfromadistance. reversed sothathorsemencouldread the The 1.5km-by-1.5km citycentre isdivided Schloss Schwetzingen isjustofftheA6 The citycentre’s chessboard layoutisatrip. 0621 /pop308,300 (L14,16-17; h 8am-3am;

417 BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG the Hauptbahnhof. Kandinsky, Max Ernstand Schlemmer. masters such as Cézanne, Manet, Leger, Klee, features modernandcontemporary artby student/family €7/5/5; adult/ inGerman; platz 4;www.kunsthalle-mannheim.de, acclaimed highly with arcades,linestheperimeter. ofensemble red-sandstone buildings,many and twoArtNouveau Ahandsome fountains. surrounded bymanicured lawns,flowerbeds it sitsinthemiddleof pretty recognisable landmark.Builtinthe1880s, Wasserturm end of thePlanken, istheelegant,60m-high hof, onthebusyKaiserring atthewestern lar andrecently renovated interior. 18th-century baroquechurch withaspectacu- inGerman; .jesuitenkirchemannheim.de, of architecture, the Schloss isMannheim’s mostdazzlingpiece Breite Strasse). the of rebuilt after thewar,which isonthewestside ied inthecryptof thebaroque interior. Philip issplendidlybur- ElectorCarl and othersumptuouslydecorated bitsof the the it willagainbepossibletosee palace are underrenovation, butfrom2007 Asand offices. wegotopress, partsof the with hundreds of ratherordinaryclassrooms asauniversity campus,most of itserves dering thecomplexabitpointless.Today, Theodor moved hiscourttoMunich, ren- after itscompletionin1777,ElectorCarl focal pointof thewhole city centre. Soon largestis Germany’s baroquepalaceandthe Schloss The pastel yellowanddarkred sandstone Sights &Activities Wäsche Insel office Tourist Post office postoffice Main 418 the Kunsthalle. behind oftheHauptbahnhof Situated fourblocksnortheast stuff yourselforleaveitandpickuptwohourslater. €6.60; Hauptbahnhof. Sells tickets forculturalevents. tickets Sells Hauptbahnhof. 9am-1pmSat,to6pmSatinDec)Justoutsidethe Mon-Fri, Willy-Brandt-Platz3; .tourist-mannheim.de; On Friedrichsplatz’ southernsideis the A blocknorthof thenorthwestern tipof the Five blocksnortheastof theHauptbahn- h NORTHERN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG •• Mannheim ••Mannheim BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG NORTHERN , atthesouthernendof Breite Strasse, Ehrenhof 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pmSat)Washyour 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, (Willy Brandt Platz) To the right asyouexit (WillyBrandtPlatz)Totheright (Water Tower), thecity’smost (Seckenheimer Strasse 8; laundry per 6kg Strasse8;laundryper6kg (Seckenheimer ( % (O2) Next toParadeplatz. (O2)Next (the courtyard at the base of (thecourtyardatthebase 101 012, tickets 101011;www 101 012,tickets Kunsthalle h Jesuitenkirche 11am-6pm Tue-Sun) ( %

293 6430;Friedrichs- h Friedrichsplatz Schlosskirche h 9am-6pm)

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€4/3; 173-room hotel, builtin1901,offers allthe ium and even a Chinese teahouse. The212m- aChinese ium andeven gardens,abutterfly hall,anaquar-hothouses, you’ll bearrivingwhenreception isclosed. aheadif Call nished butpracticalandbright. Schloss, the18roomshere are simply fur- centrally located twoblocksnorthof the not inclbreakfast; M212;s€28-35,d€45-55 -arabella-mannheim.de, inGerman; Lindenhofplatz. bybus7to It’sserved towards theRhine. 15-minute walksouthof theHauptbahnhof which renovations are planned,isonlya €16.80/13.70; dm1st/subsequentnight .jugendherberge-mannheim.de; reflected initshotel scene. Mannheim isprimarilyabusiness town,afact Sleeping midway up.Toget there take tram5. midnight) adult/student€3.50/2.50; Ufer; 290; HansReschke high the Neckar,islovely Wasserturm. thanthe outline andisexactly5mhigher this neobaroque church hasadistinctive of Friedrichsplatz. Toppedbyagreen dome, tuskirche warm-weather beer garden. warm-weather beer thanks to itsreasonably pricedfood and Paradeplatz, isafavourite studenthang-out pub-restaurant, three short blocks eastof €4.50-7, meatmains€6.30-16.40; Zentrale Gasthaus Eating &Drinking Wasserturm. live Itfacesthe lobbymusicintheevenings. steampool, sauna, bath,fitness gadgets and traditional 1st-classcreature comfortsplus Sat&Sun€100/133; Fri, 2;s/dMon-Thurichsplatz conventions€146/186, &during est. Receptionisatthestylishcafé-bar. rooms of inbackare adecentsize;those quiet- bahnhof, this34-roomhotel cheery hasbright, €65/75; €86/96,Sat&Sun 26-28;s/dMon-Fri Kaiserring .de, inGerman; Maritim Parkhotel Parkhotel Maritim Hotel Central Arabella Pension Garni DJH hostel Three blocksfurthertothenortheast,along Also worthalookistheProtestant h Fernmeldeturm pn 9am-dusk) , built in 1975, has a rotating restaurant restaurant , builtin1975,hasarotating

(Werderplatz) pn Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online atBook lonelyplanet.com ) ( Two blocksnorthof the Haupt- % h ( % , a sprawling green belt with , asprawlinggreen beltwith 822 718; Rheinpromenade 21;www 822 718;Rheinpromenade ( reception noon-8pm; ) 123 00;www.centralhotelmannheim % (

(telecommunications tower; nas This 109-bed hostel, for % , alongblocknortheast 202 43;N4,15;dailyspecials 158 80; www.maritim.de; Fried- 158 80;www.maritim.de; ( % Luisenpark h 230 50;www.pension ) This luxurious, lonelyplanet.com 9.30am-1am) n (adult/student (adult/student

Super- ) h This % 10am- Chris- 419 419 blocks northeastof theHauptbahnhof. supermarket Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com lesbian venue. Hetero-friendly, itholdsa‘cake barisMannheim’ssleek best-knowngayand Nationaltheater justoff Friedrichsring, this 3am Mon-Sat,4pm-3amSun&holidays) lonelyplanet.com and southwest, delineating thefan-shaped them, forming aquarter-circle, headsouth radiate like thespokes of Nineof awheel. From theSchloss anditsgardens, 32streets Orientation ern buildingjustsouthwestof theSchloss. which isheavily guardedinaharmoniousmod- sungsgericht, theFederal ConstitutionalCourt, stellar museums. the Schloss, inalovely set park,and some ofcultural scene. avisitinclude Highlights today it’sacreative university citywithalively process fairlywell,allthingsconsidered, and city cameoutof thepostwar reconstruction of asaresidential Baden-Durlach retreat. The dreamt upin1715byMargrave Karl Wilhelm from thenortheasternmost tipof France,was Karlsruhe Rest’),just15km (literally ‘Carl’s % KARLSRUHE Strasse). Ludwig Ratzel deturm (such asalongHans Reschke Ufer and east of aroundtheFernmel- theWasserturm to Heidelberg. There’s free parkingabout1km the A67northtoFrankfurt,andA656east east–west A6(here oriented north–south), (€4.50, 15minutes). trains linktheHauptbahnhof withHeidelberg hours, twicehourly).Various andRE S-Bahn and Freiburg (€33byRE,€39ICE,1½ Frankfurt airport(€20,31minutes, hourly) timesanhour), ICE: €23,36minutes, several furt (byRE:€13.40,70minutes, hourly;by major railhub.DestinationsincludeFrank- Mannheim, ontheHamburg–Basel line,isa &Around There Getting northwestern tipof theSchloss. platz, blockG1; thetone. sets house soundtrack ismellowuntil10pm,after which Sundayafternoon. every and coffee’ event The Café Klatsch Café Mannheim isnearthejunctionof the There’s aMensa student cafeteria atthe couldtrythe Self-caterers Karlsruhe is the seat ofKarlsruhe theBundesverfas- istheseat 0721 /pop283,000

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( % till 2pmTue, Thu&Sat) NORTHERN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG ••Karlsruhe BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG NORTHERN 156 1033;Hebelstrasse3; h 8am-8pm Mon-Sat) food market Facing the and the h (Markt- two

6pm- Lidl from Kaiserstrasse 95. from Kaiserstrasse midnight Mon-Sat,10am-midnightSun)Downtheblock public transport informationdesk. public transport andhasa tickets events office.Sells tourist Hauptbahnhof asthe thesameservices 10am-3pmSat)Offers Mon-Fri, % Card and carries Card andcarries Welcome- lasting uptofourhours. AlsosellstheKarlsruher tourofthecitycentre (PDA)walking guided audio-visual street TheCityTour(€8)isaself- fromtheHauptbahnhof. 6; % Marktplatz. transport use and reduced-price entrytomuseums. useandreduced-price transport entitlingyouto public (three daysincludingaweekend), but city custodians had enough sense –and sense but citycustodianshadenough southeast). or lesslike two slices of pizza,is just tothe nearby university (thecampus,shapedmore is apopularhangout forstudentsfromthe miniature trainline,the ter –which hasa relaxed Englishdesign.Infine weather,thelat- Schlossgarten towards theMarktplatz) isformal,thehuge gardens: whilethe and aretreat isapparent inthelayoutof the neoclassical. Itsdualfunctionasaresidence which reflects thetransitionfrombaroqueto money –torebuild itintheoriginalstyle, Karlsruhe’s SCHLOSS &BADISCHESLANDESMUSEUM Sights Post office office tourist Marktplatz WelcomeCard Karlsruher Cafe Internet office tourist Hauptbahnhof ATMs Information east of theMarktplatz. northward fromKaiserstrasse, begins500m (and thenabitwest). with theHauptbahnhof, 2.5kmduesouth north–southandlinks theSchlosswhich goes Kaiserstrasse, andtheKarl-Friedrich-Strasse, main east–westshoppingstreet, tram-clogged the Schloss gardensattheintersection of the Marktplatz, which istwoblockssouthof city centre. Karlsruhe’s focalpoint isthe etc issuedtwiceayear. museumexhibitions,culturalevents, concerts, h The university campus,which extends 3720 5376; Karl-Friedrich-Strasse 9, 3720 5376;Karl-Friedrich-Strasse 3720 5383; www.karlsruhe-tourism.de; Bahnhofplatz Bahnhofplatz 3720 5383;www.karlsruhe-tourism.de; There are several along Kaiserstrasse nearthe There alongKaiserstrasse are several 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat). Right acrossthe 9am-1pmSat).Right 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, (Poststrasse)JusteastoftheHauptbahnhof. (Kronenplatz28;perhr€1.50; Karlsruhe ExtraKarlsruhe palace northof thepalacehasamore Botanischer Garten wasdestroyedinthewar Schlossplatz (Tourist-information; (Tourist-information; (€9.50)Goodfortwodays , a free trilingual listingof , afree trilingual (Stadt-information; Schlossgartenbahn h (tothesouth 9.30am-7pm anditsown h 9am- 419

– BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG includes several cafés and restaurants.includes several The vast halls of ahistoric munitions factory, it electronic mediatechnologies. inthe Housed plex thatbringstogether artandemerging exhibition, research com- anddocumentation 19; andMedia; for Art Locals are proudof immensely the MEDIENTECHNOLOGIE UND KUNST FÜR ZENTRUM renovations. in theOrangerie, wasreopened in2006after Sisley andRenoir. Themodernartsection, tors such asDegas,Manet, Monet,Pissarro, byFrenchthe Elder;andcanvases innova- as Matthias GrünewaldandLucasCranach man masters of thelate Gothicperiodsuch Sat &Sun) 2-6; adult/student€6/4; Hans-Thoma-Strasse inGerman; www.kunsthalle-karlsruhe.de, the outstanding and pasttheFederal ConstitutionalCourt,is Southwest acrossthegardenfromSchloss, KUNSTHALLE STAATLICHE movements. produced bytheArtNouveau andArtDeco applied arts,includingthedeliciousobjects onpost-1900 thatfocuses Landesmuseum 2pmFri) free after Fri-Sun, 6; adult/concession€2/1; amMarkt Museum Schlossgarten lawns. of 1645bluemajolica tilesthatleadacrossthe linked totheSchloss bythe 1901 byKarlsruhe’s Majolika-Manufactur, is displays 1000ceramicobjects madesince h Ahaweg6;adult/concession€2/1; .majolika-karlsruhe.com; appreciate thetown’scircularlayout. Turks. Climbingthe from his17th-centurycampaignsagainstthe backbyMargravebrought Ludwig Wilhelm (both onthe1stfloor),and‘spoilsof war’ andpaintingsfromtheMiddleAgesstatues grand-ducalrulingfamily;altars,Baden’s gem-encrusted crown,sceptre andswordof 10am-6pm Fri-Sun) 2pmFri; adult/student €4/3,free after seum; the of 420 At thenorthernendof theMarktplatz isthe The Schloss thesuperbcollections houses The h 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun, free after 2pmFri) 10am-1pm &2-5pmTue-Sun, free after

% 10am-6pm Wed-Fri, 11am-6pmSat&Sun) 10am-6pm Wed-Fri, NORTHERN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG •• Karlsruhe ••Karlsruhe BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG NORTHERN Badisches Landesmuseum Museum inderMajolika Museum . Highlights includeworksbyGer-. Highlights 926 6520; www.landesmuseum.de, in German; 926 6520;www.landesmuseum.de,inGerman; % , which include thedazzling 8100 1200; www.zkm.de; Lorenzstrasse 8100 1200;www.zkm.de;

( State Art Gallery Art State % , abranch of theBadisches h h 926 6578; Karl-Friedrich-Strasse 926 6578;Karl-Friedrich-Strasse tower 11am-5pm Tue-Thu, 10am-6pm 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, isthebestwayto h Blaue Linie

( %

(Baden StateMu- 10am-5pm Tue-Thu, ( 926 6583;www % ZKM , ahuge 926 3370; , which , aline (Centre

on interactive mediaart,whilethe café-restaurant, at Ludwigsplatz,with right postwar German art. postwar German A solidchoice. has 27hotel-ish butperfectly decentrooms. ern edge of theStadtgarten-Zoo,thisplace northeast of theHauptbahnhof atthesouth- 5;s/dfrom€67/97; Stadtgarten its continuation. walk five blocksnorthalongKarlstrasse and take tram2,4or6toEuropaplatzandthen shower andtoilet.Fromthetrainstation, this hostel has 167beds,mostinroomswith n 24;dm1st/subsequentnight€17.90/14.70; Moltke-strasse DJH hostel Sleeping of theHauptbahnhof; bytram2. it’sserved the Schloss northwest andasimilardistance of thecitycentre, abitover 2kmsouthwestof €2.60/1.80) adult/student&senior Lorenzstrasse 27;permanentcollection ( exhibitions of artcreated after 1960. 2pmFri) €8/3/5, free after child 7-18yr/student&senior€5/2/3,incltheMedienmuseum für NeueKunst 2pmFri) 7-18yr/student &senior€5/2/3,free after concerts andotherevents. onspecialexhibitions,website hasdetails and chandeliers overhead. mal café-restaurant hastworows of columns south of Kaiserstrasse, thiscultured butinfor- €4.80-8.90, mainsaround €8.50; to 2pm. (€10) onSundayandholidaysfrom 10am smoke-stained paint.There’s abrunch buffet wood panelling,tiles,mirrors and yellow soaring ceilingsandwallscovered with 12.50; in townforbagels (€1.40to€4.20). the StaatlicheKunsthalle,thisisbestplace h and eateries. Karlsruhe of gardens hasawideselection beer Eating % Alte Bank Alte Krokodil Salomon Café AvisaHotel The ZKMislocated inthesouthwestcorner The Next totheZKMis 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pmSat&Sun) 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, ) 133 4401; www.staedtische-galerie.de, in German; inGerman; 133 4401;www.staedtische-galerie.de, A few blocksduewestof theSchloss, h Medienmuseum , which localartaswell showcases 7.30am-1am, to 3am Fri &Sat) 7.30am-1am, to3amFri ( %

Book accommodation online atBook lonelyplanet.com ( ( % %

1208 4790;Waldstrasse63;mains€5.90- ( (Museum for Contemporary Art; adult/ forContemporaryArt; (Museum

% ( 183 2818;Herrenstrasse 30-32;salads 282 48;www.jugendherberge.de; % 349 77;www.hotel-avisa.de; Am hostsfirst-rate temporary 921 2080;Hans-Thoma-Strasse 3;

(Media Museum; adult/child Museum; (Media pni h 10am-1am) Städtische Galerie lonelyplanet.com Twoblocks Apopular ) Ablock focuses focuses Facing Museum Museum

medieval monasteries anywheremedieval northof the Site since1993, isoneof thebest-preserved 9pm to11pm. university campus.Ithasfree billiardsfrom bolage.de, in German; Kaiserstrasse 21; Kaiserstrasse bolage.de, inGerman; later) Club leCarambolage Entertainment lonelyplanet.com perfect Swabian river town –which celebrated insurance company,thiseasy-to-like, picture- Home of theSchwäbisch Hall bankingand % SCHWÄBISCH HALL the traintoMühlacker andthenbus700. bus 700(€4,onehour);fromStuttgart, take Bretten andfromthere Bahnhof thehourly from Karlsruhe, raillineto take the S4light on theA8.Toget there bypublictransport Stuttgart, notfarfromthePforzheim Ost exit east of Karlsruhe and33kmnorthwestof andinteresting.culturally important templation andlabour,thatmake thisplaceso spirit of monasticlife, withitsmixture of con- church monastery Keppler. Johannes Famous graduates include theastronomer 1140, itbecameaProtestantschool in1556. around Alps. FoundedbymonksfromAlsace 5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Feb) family €5/2.50/12.50; adult/concession/ 926 610;www.schloesser-und-gaerten.de; This one-time MAULBRONN KLOSTER the citycentre; lookfor‘P+R’signs. €4.20 (€6.50foruptofive people). 24-Stunden-Karte, goodfor24hours, costs per childsixand14years between of age; a S41. Singletickets cost€2foranadultand€1 raillines2,3,S1,S11,S4and by tramandlight (just twoblockssouthof theSchloss gardens) The Hauptbahnhof islinked totheMarktplatz Around Getting pointofand isthestarting theA8toMunich. utes) andFreiburg (€24to€29,onehour). (€5,moreBaden byICorICE,15to30min- byrailincludeBaden- Destinations well-served &Away There Getting Features of architectural interest includethe There are park-and-ride optionsoutsideof Maulbronn, intheSalzach Valley, is30km Karlsruhe isontheA5 (Frankfurt–Basel) 0791 /pop36,000 Ahugely popular NORTHERN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG ••KlosterMaulbronn BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG NORTHERN Cistercian monastery Cistercian , but it’s the insights intothe , butit’stheinsights , aUnescoWorldHeritage h

( 9am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, 9.30am- 9am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, % Musikklub 373 227;www.club-caram h facingthe 9pm-4am or

( % 07043- block north ofAmMarkt. block north 10pm Tue-Sat, noon-10pmSun&Mon)Internetaccessa (Hangman’s Bridge). western endof the Neue Strasse, tions theformer river, you cansee red-roofed Lookingdowntowardthe houses. south sideforawonderfulviewof thecity’s a theatre; onits walkupthestonestaircase as andgranarynowused as anarsenal a steep-roofed 16th-centurystructure built the endof Pfarrgasse, isthe massive for storingriver fish before sale. Fischbrunnen summer since1925. inGerman) www.freilichtspiele-hall.de, performances; tostage used been net vaultingontheceilingof thechoir. the 15thand16thcenturies.Note theclassical begun in1156butmainlyconstructed during isthelate-Gothichowever, after WWII.Thecentrepiece of theMarkt, roque styleafter atownfire in1728andagain the Wednesday andSaturdaymornings,boasts Am Markt, which stillhostsmarkets on ALTSTADT Sights office Tourist PTT-Tele-Cafe the river. linksAmMarktStrasse, (theMarktplatz) with maincommercialstreet,The Altstadt’s Neue (NewTown),ontheleft(west)bank. Neustadt (east)bank,fromthe ontheright Altstadt, Schwäbischthrough Hall, the separating The Kocher River runssouth-to-north &Information Orientation for picnics. islands andgrassyriverbank parksare perfect overlooking thetranquilKocher River. The overhouses, covered bridges andupslopes hillside stone alleys,amonghalf-timbered An aimless amblewilltake youalongnarrow andopen-airtheatreseums performances. its ancientriverside cityscape,innovative mu- its 850thanniversary in2006–isknownfor main square. OntheAltstadt’s Oct-Apr) 9am-5pmMon-Fri May-Sep, 9; Am Markt Next tothetouristoffice isthe outthefronthas The majestic staircase Two shortblockssouthof thechurch, at Rathaus Rathaus , thecovered h (town hall),reconstructed inba- ( (1509),alarge irontubonceused (Marktstrasse 15;perhr€1.50; (Marktstrasse % 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pmSat&Sun 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 751 246;www.schwaebischhall.de; Roter Steg Roter Freilichtspiele bridge and,atthe Kirche StMichael Kirche (open-air theatre

city fortifica- Henkerbrücke h Gotischer Neubau every every 10am- 421

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BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG ing groundwithawasher-dryer andcommunal €5/3; LangeStrasse 35;adult/student&senior .kunst.wuerth.com; night €5; forstaysof1 Hauffstrasse 14;s/d€43/63,extra in German; rustic-themed interior. on footfromthecentre, ismodernwitha the river, theoutstanding 422 incorrect inthelobby. Therooms statuary alargea sauna, wellnesscentre andpolitically superb river pools, views,hasfoursaltwater hotel, where manyof the114rooms afford pais 14;s€101-132,d€126-184; Weilertor .de inGerman; hardwood floors andmarblebathrooms. well-designed andfastidiouslykept roomswith St Michael, thisfamily-runhotel hashomely, Klosterstrasse 2-4;s€64-74,d€88-104; rooms insomerooms. utes onfooteastfromAmMarkt, hasbath- n Langenfelder Weg5;dm1st/subsequentnight€17.90/14.70; kitchen. €5.10/4.80; .camping-schwaebisch-hall.de; Mühlsteige26; See AmSteinbacher Campingplatz Sleeping often hostslive musicintheevenings. the partof acentury-oldbrewery,that preserves localstone building, facedwithrough-hewn inastrikingultramodern for €4.Itishoused exhibits). Anaudioguidemaybeavailable five between months fortwoweeks (itcloses porary exhibitionsthatchange fouror every Roter Steg bridge, putsonintriguingtem- hold Würth,this Founded in2001bytheindustrialistRein- WÜRTH KUNSTHALLE synagogue interior an extremely rare hand-painted wooden wooden targets withholesand shot through and craftsfromthe17thcentury,painted and nearbyareas. includeartwork Exhibits tions covering thehistoryof Schwäbisch Hall earlyJun–mid-Aug) Fri €2.50/1.50; Museum Housed in seven oldbuildingsdownby inseven Housed Hotel Garni Scholl Garni Hotel DJH hostel Hotel Hohenlohe Hotel Sölch Garni Hotel ) h Sudhaus This friendly133-bed hostel, just10min- SCHWÄBISCHE ALB 10am-6pm) pn

Take bus4toSteinbach Mitte. h ( h % , where that you’llfindabrasserie year-round) 10am-5pm Tue-Sun year-round,until8pm 751 289; Im Keckenhof 6;adult/student 751 289;ImKeckenhof ) ) Thisextremely comfortable ( Thishotel, about 20minutes % , ablockupthehillfrom from1738. haswell-presented collec- 410 50; www.jugendherberge.de; 410 50;www.jugendherberge.de; ( ( art museum art % ( % % Anidylliclakeside camp- 758 70;www.hotel-hohenlohe 518 07;www.hotel-soelch.de, 975 50; www.hotel-scholl.de; 975 50;www.hotel-scholl.de; Hällisch-Frankisches Hällisch-Frankisches n

( % Behind Kirche Kirche Behind ) ( % 946 720;www 2984; www

tent/adult in Wackershofen, 6kmnorthwestof Schwä- centre ontheB19. has been serving localspecialitiessince1903. serving has been tween thetwo.tween centre. runregularly Trainsandbuses be- a short fromthe walkalongBahnhofstrasse go totheleft-bank Schwäbisch Bahnhof Hall, bybus1;trainsfromHeilbronnthe Altstadt about 7kmsouthof thecentre andlinked to hourly) arrive atHessental, bank ontheright trains fromStuttgart(€11.70,1¼hours, bytwotrainstations: The townisserved &Around There Getting h aschen, and vegetarian specialities,including deliciousSwabian thisveteranAltstadt, serves h Markt, putstogether great hotlunches. butcher-deli, twoblocksnorthwestof Am €3.60; at KunsthalleWürth( left ). bit southwestof AmMarkt. There’s abrasserie canbefoundonornearHaalstrasse,Eateries a Eating orange andpastel green. rated inwarmMediterranean tonesof yellow, have woodenfurniture sleek andare deco- Danube moseys through Ulm,with itsdaring through Danube moseys rivers intheBlack Forest. thatrise Themighty bytwomajoras theSwabianAlp, iscrossed the BlackForest, sometimesknown inEnglish The hillyarea southof Stuttgartandeastof SCHWÄBISCHE ALB it’s aneasyrideouthere onbus7. blisters justwatching. FromSchwäbisch Hall, ing methodsandequipment–wenearly got demonstrations of pre-20th-century farm- bisch Hall, hosting hasancientfarmhouses &Nov) Apr,Oct 10am-5pmTue-Sun Mar, Tue-Sun May-Sep, Museum; The open-air AROUND SCHWÄBISCHHALL 9am-2pmSat) 12.30pm &2-7pmMon-Fri, ( % Gasthaus Sonne Gasthaus Hespelt Outfits hiringoutbikes include Weinstube Würth 11pm-midnight Tue-Sun) closed 2-5.30pm&Mon) 971 400;Johanniterstrasse55;perday€10; h % andhasalovely garden. beer 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.30pmSat) 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, ( % 971 010;adult/student€5.50/3.50; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 930 220;AmSpitalbach17;lunchplatefrom Hohenloher Freilandmuseum Hohenloher Freilandmuseum

( ( % % Across theriver fromthe Thishistoricrestaurant 6636; Im Weiler 8; mains €5-13; 6636; ImWeiler8;mains€5-13; 970 840; Gelbinger Gasse 2; Gasse 970 840;Gelbinger lonelyplanet.com , northof the 2-Rad Zügel 2-Rad h h (Farming Mault- This 9am-6pm 9am-

the Rhine atMannheim.the Rhine Stuttgart andHeidelberg, joining eventually the university cityof Tübingen onitswayto pest andbeyond.TheNeckarflowsthrough modern architecture, before headingto Buda- lonelyplanet.com Mühlstrasse. Mühlstrasse. thenortherncontinuationofhelmstrasse, north (about1kmfromtheriver) alongWil- ThemainuniversityAltstadt. area isfurther totheleft(west)ofstrasse, which liesthe (500m). GoingnorthupthehillisMühl- Karlstrasse leadssouthtotheHauptbahnhof (Neckarbrücke), thecitycentre’s onlybridge, from easttowest.FromEberhardsbrücke The NeckarRiver Tübingen flowsthrough Orientation is anexcellentchoice. wary of Heidelberg’s masstourism,Tübingen universityhang outinaGerman townbutare way downtheNeckarRiver. Ifyou’dlike to for afew days,hitsomepubsandpaddleyour and theastronomer Johannes Keppler. lyric poet Friedrich Hölderlin(1770–1843) graduates includethephilosopher Hegel, the who published hisfirst workshere; famous Tübingen wasafavoured hauntof Goethe, 1477 byCountEberhardVIof Württemberg, learning sincetheuniversity wasfoundedin chief of areal of college higher town.Aseat timbered –withtheeruditionandmis- houses hilltop fortress, cobbledalleysandlotsof half- the charms of city–such alate-medieval asa Tübingen, 40kmsouthof Stuttgart,mixes all % TÜBINGEN

Today, Tübingen isalovely placetorelax Faith XVI. andnowasPope Benedict as atheologian, asArchbishopofMunich,prefect oftheCongregation of the fortheDoctrine humanity frombarbarism. adherence couldsave toChurchdoctrine era Bavaria. conclusion wasthatonlyunswerving His tendency towardstotalitarianismthatreminded himofwhathehadseen growingupinNazi- ontheotherhand,detectedidealism ofyouth.Ratzinger, radicalsa intheMarxist-influenced ment withhisliberalrivalswithinthe Church,whosawinthespiritoftimesglowing named Father JosephRatzinger. theology lecturer, knownasachurchreformer forhisroleintheSecondVatican Council(1962–65), Catholicstudent radicalism.Amongthosewhoexperiencedtumultuoustimeswas aforty-ish In thelate university 1960sTübingen,like townsaroundtheglobe,wassweptbyawave of TÜBINGEN ANDTHEPOPE 07071 /pop83,000 That clear-cut view ofCatholicism ever hasbeen pursuedbyRatzinger sincehistimeinTübingen: The studentswere revolting wasinfullagree- –aboutthat,andperhapsthatalone,Ratzinger SCHWÄBISCHEALB••Tübingen Self-service laundry. Self-service located onthesameblock. Mon-Sat, noon-10pmSun)Twootherinternetcafésare Markt. andyetanotheratAm southern endofEberhardsbrücke Waschsalon Vu-Tel office Tourist Altstadt. Post office Osiander N-Telecenter Frauenbuchladen Thalestris ATMs Information the tinyAmmerRiver. Hirschgasse), isontheslopeleadingdownto including mostof theshopping(such ason the Schloss. The north Markt mainpublicsquare) (theAltstadt’s and Kirchgasse,skirche, thepedestrianised Am which you’ll find(fromeasttowest)theStift- purveyor ofbookssince1596. purveyor (for exampletoBebenhausenorWurmlingerkapelle). options details outsideandcanprovideonhiking Hasaboardwithhotel the southendofEberhardsbrücke. 1; Neckarbrücke Internet access. h Hölderlinturm, halfablockupfromtheriver. behindthe aren’t allowedinside.Situatedright women. It’sawomen’sinformationcentre, too,andmen 10am-2pmSat)Stocksbooksrelated to 7pm Mon-Fri, Bursagasse2; .frauenbuchladen.net, inGerman; steeply uptoaridge, at(ornear)thetopof Thenorthernbankofstadt. theNeckarleads 8.30am-10.30pm Mon-Sat,11am-10.30pmSun) Most of Tübingen’s are sights intheAlt- There’s one in the Hauptbahnhof, anotheratthe There’s oneintheHauptbahnhof, (Mühlstrasse14;perhr€2.50; ( % (cnrHafengasse &NeueStrasse)Inthe (Mühlstrasse18; (Wilhelmstrasse3/1;perhr€2; ( 920 10;Wilhelmstrasse12-14)A h % 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat)At 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 913 60;www.tuebingen.de;Ander ern halfof theAltstadt, h ( % 7am-10pm Mon-Sat) h 265 90;www 10am-10pm h

10am-

423 BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG block. as young14 were given thechoice of city’s tothe losing theirwine ration orbeingsent puked (Goethe here).kotzte Goethe’ alittlesign:‘Hier student dorm–you’llsee floor windowof thebuilding–nowagrungy the wallnextdoor. If youlookupatthe1st- front doorandwrote atechnicolour on poem he apparently staggered the home,missed 1797.Onenight here inSeptember foraweek to findinspirationatthelocalpubs,stayed Schiller and whowasknown Goethe, Goethe. evening. Saturday windows. Ithostsconcertsevery stained-glassexcellent originalmedieval tombs of theWürttemberg dukes andhas century will take youtothe late-Gothic, late-15th- with yourfriendsabout. meaning of which youmayenduparguing garden andavery original thebeer thelittlepassageway tosee through church.it’s ownedbytheProtestant Walk for manyof Tübingen’s leadingfigures; today Lammhofpassage selves inthedecorative ironwork. modestlyplacedthem- funds forthefountain that thecitycouncilmembers whoapproved Neptune Fountain nomical clock(1511).Thefourwomenof the baroque façadeand,wayuptop,anastro- Rathaus Presidingtables. over thehullabaloois summer itoverflows withgeraniums and café houses, ample optionsforromanticstrolling. Oct-Apr) adult/student &senior€4/2; museum ofarchaeology&Egyptology various university institutes, includingthe Thismostly16th-centurycastlehouses stadt. over thesteep, red-tiled rooftops of theAlt- western edge fineviews of affords theAltstadt, (1606), Entered anornate gate through Renaissance Sights &Activities 424 space, isamuch-loved studenthang-out;in Cotta, whofirstCotta, published theworksof both tahaus Surrounded by towering half-timbered Surrounded bytoweringhalf-timbered In centuriespast, delinquentstudents Facing the church’s westfaçade isthe Walking twoblockseastalongKirchgasse On thenorthernsideof theMarkt isthe Karzer SCHWÄBISCHE ALB••Tübingen . The gardens around the Schloss afford . ThegardensaroundtheSchloss afford , one-timehomeof Johann Friedrich (1433),withariotous19th-century Schloss Hohentübingen Stiftskirche Am Markt

(student jail; Münzgasse20) , anerstwhile watering hole represent note theseasons; , the Altstadt’s mainpublic , theAltstadt’s

(Am Holzmark) h 10am-6pm Wed-Sun,to5pm (Burgsteige 11)

bronze statue bronze , which houses , which houses , justup the (

% 297 7384; atthe , , the Cot- 5, 13,15 and 17. bybuses the hillfrom thecentre, it’sserved outdoor gardens. Situated 2km northwestup aTropicarium andsomelovelyhothouses, main university administration building. h vermietung Märkle vermietung (behind andbelowthetouristoffice), sink amidmuch merriment. beery a liquids, occasionallycauses associated withtheconsumptionof brewed by contributingtovariousphenomenaoften of whichcase beer, weighs downtheboatand, can hire a nearby,onthebanksofRight theNeckar,you erlin lived from1807untilhisdeathin1843. erside towerinwhich thepoet Friedrich Höld- of Eberhardsbrücke isthe August. island every festivalspectators. Atwo-week takes over the races hill –holdtheirwildlypopular mansions alongtheriver uponthe andhigh schaften (fraternities) –whoownmanyof the Christi (late May orearlyJune),theBurschen- stroll. OntheThursday of theFeast of Corpus island that’sperfect foraplanetree–shaded down tothe garden. Neckarmüller nextto right argasse leadsdowntotheNeckarwhere – 123; Hartmeyerstrasse .botgarden.uni-tuebingen.de, inGerman; nischer Garten Wilhelmstrasse &Gmelinstrasse) piece of paper).Theneoclassical thehoopstoget through thatall-important they nourish their minds(oratleastjump stomachs, andthe teries of where theAltstadt, theynourish their theea- it’ssandwiched between dents because grassy parkthat’shugely popularwithstu- Botanischer Garten hour respectively. cherkähne pedal-boatscanoes, and12-person to9pminsummer) 7pm Apr-Oct, 1; Eberhardsbrücke -tuebingen.de inGerman; The university’s absolutely delightful Across theriver justeastof thebridge From theeastendof Holzmarkt, Neck- Facing about 150mwest thePlatanenallee From themiddleof thebridge, stairs lead Just northeastof isthe theAltstadt mid-Apr–Oct) h (puntraces)here, of drawingthousands 8am-4.45pm, till7pmSat &Suninsummer) for€7.50,€10and€48per Stocherkahn 46) Tbne’ bs beer best Tübingen’s (p426), Platanenallee . Studentsoften bringalonga

(Botanical Garden; (Botanical Garden; Eberhardsbrücke

(Old Botanical Garden),a (OldBotanical ( % Universität district Universität 315 29;www.bootsvermietung

(per hrupto16people€60-65; , builtin1832,isthe hires outrowboats, , alongsliver of an Hölderlinturm % lonelyplanet.com –you’llfind Stocherkahn 297 8822;www Neue Aula Stocherkahn Stocherkahn h , where , ariv- 11am- Boots- Bota- has Sto- Alter Alter (cnr

to has astopnearby. about 2kmwestof theHauptbahnhof. Bus9 ing groundonthenorthbankof theNeckar Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com building where Keppler todrop byfor used situated hotel isensconced ina16th-century down thehillfrom theSchloss, thissuperbly .de; Burgsteige18;s€55-82, d€98-118; from theB28. odd colourschemes. Bycar,take Neckarhalde tive medium-sizedrooms, somewithrather shocking ochre-pink colour–has50attrac- Am Markt, this friendlyhotel –painted a €30.45/72; 2;s€59-76,d€92-110,s/dwithoutbathroom .de; Neckarhalde Frondsbergstrasse. 5,13,14and18toBreiterby buses Wegor centre upSchnarrenbergstrasse; it’sserved space. Situated 800mnorthwestof thecity It hascookingfacilitiesandyouget fridge hostel thatrents outbasicroomstotravellers. s/d €40/52,swithoutbathroom€30) [email protected]; Frondsbergstrasse55; the Hauptbahnhof bybus22. 300m eastof Eberhardbrücke. It’slinked to tion onthenorthbankof theNeckarabout n 22/2;dm1st/subsequentnight€20.30/17.10; Gartenstrasse h 61;adult/tent/car€5.30/4.10/2.60; ing.de; Rappenberghalde Tübingen Camping Neckar Sleeping Hotel amSchloss Hotel DJH hostel Hotel HospizTübingen Hotel Viktor-Renner-Haus Sometimes referred or‘Germanravioli’, toas‘Swabianpockets’ MAULTASCHEN with dimsum,pirogi andravioli. (fiendishly difficulttodo,accordingtrueconnoisseurs),canholdtheirowninanycompetition now acknowledgedasoneofthegloriesSwabiancuisine. theyareovers pocket, bychoppingthemupandconcealinginaboilednoodle-dough and eggs. Onceanefficiencyfoodforthepoor,whocouldwringonemore mealoutofleft- that are traditionallyfilledwithgroundmeatorsausage,preboiled spinach,bitsofdampbread available over thecourseofyear–isTübingen’sHotel amSchlossrestaurant (see p426 ). Maultaschenfresser events, fanswishingtoinsulttheirSwabianrivalssometimescallthemclear isthatatsporting misdemeanours fromthepryingeyesofparishpriest(ifnothigherauthorities).Whatis Lent camouflaging theirculinary itwithspinach,thuskeeping byhidingitinsidepastaandfurther theroundsisthatsomeSwabiansfigured theycouldgetawaywitheatingmeatduringmaking were invented bytheCistercian monksofMaulbronnMonastery –thusthename. Anotherstory Apr-Oct) ) This159-bed hostel hasapretty loca- Book accommodation online atBook lonelyplanet.com The origins of An excellentplacetosamplefirst-rate pn Agrassy andnicelyshaded camp- ( % ) Justablockupthehillfrom SCHWÄBISCHEALB••Tübingen 230 02; www.jugendherberge.de; 230 02;www.jugendherberge.de; ( Maultaschen % – uncouthdevourers of ( % 929 40;www.hotelamschloss ( ( % % 559 020;viktor-renner-haus 431 45;www.neckarcamp 9240; www.hotel-hospiz Ayoungpeople’s pi are shroudedinsteaming broth.Accordingtoonelegend,they Just50m ) Maultaschen Maultaschen very swish place atthesouthernendof Eber- 1am) and burgers (both from€2.20). here,right alongwithgood-value bratwurst €2/1). It’s pronounced (first/subsequent portionscost justpasta €7.50), homemade soupsand,each Tuesday, ible specialitiesinclude &Sat) Fri found westof AmMarkt alongHaaggasse. (onthesouthside). side) orIstanbul brücke –isbetter, Kalender (onthenorth –atoppositeish takeaways endsof Eberhards- tunnel underAmStadtgraben. linked totheAlter Garten Botanischer bya Nonnenhaus,tiny AmmerRiver onBeim cafés andice-cream placescluster alongthe In thenortheastcornerof several the Altstadt, Eating &Drinking rooms, allwithsuperbsoundproofing. ily since1885,ithas43elegant,understated of theHauptbahnhof. fam- Runbythesame hardsbrücke andjusttwoblocksnortheast .de; Uhlandstrasse1;s€87-107,d€125-155; from theB28. 30), great views.Bycar,take Neckarhalde like (such swansand,inmanycases asroom shiny bathrooms,pillowsarranged tolook wine. roomshave The33comfortable bright, –60to70varieties,someofthemseasonal,are Hades Locals disagree astowhich of the twoTurk- KroneTübingen Hotel X A numberof popularstudentbars canbe Theregion’s bestchips/French friesare ( % . A 249 02;Kornhausstrasse6;snacksunder€3;11am-

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( % Schatzkammer 551 651;Lazarettgasse 19-21; atyourleisure. Oncleardays aroundtown. (

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1377, ittookover 500years forthestructure thefirstthe world.Though stone waslaidin in steeple –thetallest for its161.53m-high admission andpublictransport. 9am-1pm Sat Nov-Mar) Sells theUlmCard. Sells 9am-1pm SatNov-Mar) 9am-6pmMon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat,11am-3pmSunApr-Oct, Stadthaus bldg,Münsterplatz50; his designwaslater shown tobeworkable. him, madeanembarrassingsplashlandingbut wall. The‘Tailor of Ulm’,asthelocalscalled hewaskicked)ing (somesay fromthecity attempted toflyacrosstheDanubeafter leap- lonelyplanet.com who were paidbythe block. hallmarks to citiesaroundEurope. Notedistances the the pavement outfrontshows directions and to becompleted. A sion free; the towering architecturalUlm’s outstanding landmarkis MÜNSTER Sights Ulm Card office Tourist Hauptbahnhof. Post office Intercall oftravelguidesandmaps. a goodselection Herwig h Global Internetcafé SB-Waschsalon Eco-Express Information systems municipalfacilities. andimportant modern city.Thetwocitiesshare transport varia, isthecityof Neu-Ulm,aratherbland, Danube about 300msouthof theMünster. the channels, meet linedwithquainthouses, shopping precinct. ThetinyBlauRiver’s two the Münster, surroundedbyapedestrian (to thenorth).Incentre of theoval lies Hauptbahnhof (tothewest)andOlgastrasse delineated bytheriver (tothesouth), Danube, isinsidea1300m-by-700m oval onthenorthbankofUlm’s Altstadt, the Orientation Mon-Sat, 10am-10pmSun&holidays)Internetaccess. the city-centre oval. cornerof ofWilly-Brandt-Platz,inthenortheast northeast laundryfourblocks 6am-11pm Mon-Sat)Aself-service 6.45pm Apr-Jun to7.45pmJul & Aug) &Sep, On thesouthsideof theDanube,inBa- 10am-11pm Mon-Sat,11am-10pmSun&holidays) ( h % (Neue Strasse101;perhr€2; (1/2 days €8/12) Offers discountedmuseum (1/2days€8/12)Offers oneach stone,inscribed bycutters (Bahnhofplatz 2) To the left asyouexitthe 2)Totheleft (Bahnhofplatz 9am-4.45pm Jan&Feb, to &Oct, to5.45pmMar 962 170;Münsterplatz18)Abookshopwith ( % Münster SCHWÄBISCHEALB••Ulm 161 2830; www.tourismus.ulm.de; 161 2830;www.tourismus.ulm.de; (NeueStrasse86;perhr€2; bronze plaque bronze (Cathedral;Münsterplatz; (Wielandstrasse29; h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, h embeddedin , celebrated 9.30am-11pm

admis- of kissingateach landing.Uptopthere are cally mindedlocalcoupleshave atradition Asdizzying height. theyclimbup,romanti- form –canyoufullyappreciate thetower’s spiral steps viewingplat- tothe143m-high designed byGottfriedBöhm. city’s main library,the isthe and36mhigh) (28m by28matits base striking all-glass pyramidbehind theRathaus kept theirriver fish alive onmarket days.That kastenbrunnen replica of quarter-hour.off every a Insideyoucansee a gilded an ornately paintedfaçadeand Renaissance The 14th-century RATHAUS thetouristoffice andacafé. also houses and stages artexhibitionsandspecialevents, both gorgeous andfunctional.Thestructure next tothecity’sGothicgem buttheresult is uproar byerecting apostmodernbuilding can architect Richard Meier. He an caused glass a completely different era–isthewhite-and- of MünsterplatzThe otherhighlight –from STADTHAUS most Sunyear-round) €2.50/4.50; during WWII. the 14thand15thcenturies,were removed windows stained-glass thagoras, whostrumsalute. Theimpressive andPy- LuciusSeneca Roman playwright sides showhistoricalcharacters, such asthe the NewTestament, andthebottom from theOldTestament, themiddlefrom oak for theHolySpirit.On15th-century leadstoamini-pulpit tiny spiralstaircase alace, eliminates duringsermons; echoes style wooden killed duringtheHolocaust.TheGothic- asamemorialtoJewsdoor thatserves ster theAlps. see even Schwäbische Alb,and oncleardaysyoucan unparalleled viewsof theBlackForest and the €4/2.50; The Münster’s regular As youenter thechurch, note the Only byclimbingthe In theMarktplatz tothesouthis , a stained-glass windowabove, astained-glass thewest choir stalls Stadthaus h h astrological clock astrological last admission1hrbefore closing) Berblinger’s flyingmachine noon-12.30pm Sat Easter-Christmas, 11.30am noon-12.30pm SatEaster-Christmas, pulpitcanopy , a fountain where, afountain fishmongers (1993),designedbytheAmeri- , thetoprowdepictsfigures are a real treat. Rathaus inthechoir, datingfrom Zentralbibliothek (1520);bellscount organ concerts organ , as detailed asfine, asdetailed (TownHall) has tower

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Bahnhofstr str D Reuttier Str Reuttier 29 28 27 26 25 24 32 31 30 B3 B2 C3 B3 B2 A3 B3 A3 Ein Ein 4km southof thecitycentre, wasfoundedin Culture; €7/4; Lichtenstein andMacke. Kandinsky,by artistssuch asKlee, Picasso, 20th-century paintings andsculptures. isthe Ahighlight and modernart,includingicons,religious 11am-8pm Thu) on weekends andholidays. Thedocksare on 2pm, 3pm and4pmdaily, andalsoat5pm The 20m-long Tours tothepark. a shuttlegoes Ulm withGünzburg’s fromthere train station; northeast of Ulmjustoff theA8.Bus850links parkinGünzburg,amusement about 30km 6pm &10pmmid-Apr–earlyNov) .legoland.de; adult/child3-11&senior€29/25; Deutschland Legoland LEGOLAND bus 3and8;get off atPranger. available. Themonastery islinked toUlmby a classical number forthetime).Thelate baroque–early ofwas inpossession 15,000volumes,ahuge piece inpinkandgreen (in1757themonastery Bibliothekssaal of avisitincludethesplendid 1700s. Highlights 1093 andrebuilt inthebaroquestyle 1-5pmSat,Sun&holidaysNov-Mar) & SunApr-Oct, €3.50/1.70/8.70; adult/concession/family 8975; www.schloesser-und-gaerten.de; This one-timeBenedictine WIBLINGEN KLOSTER not collected inmuseums. bread isfoodandmustberespected assuch, asabrochurebecause, solemnlyexplains, across cultures. Noactualbread isondisplay grain andmakingbread over millenniaand of life, alookattheprocessof taking growing Tue, 10am-8.30pm Wed) stadelgasse 10;adult/student&senior€3/2;10am-5pmThu- new dynamismintoUlm’sAltstadt. claimed modernbuildingsthathave injected structure of isthelatest inaseries boldandac- open inthespringof 2007.Thisimpressive to modernandpopart,isset spotlighting housing the Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com museum The Across thestreet, abrandnewbuilding h % Museum derBrotkultur Museum May–mid-Oct) Klosterkirche opened in 2006. An audioguide is openedin2006.Anaudioguideis 699 55;www.museum-brotkultur.de; Salz- houses acollectionof houses ancient h (libraryhall),arococomaster- Sammlung Weishaupt Kurt Fried Collection Fried Kurt 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat 10am-5pmSat 10am-1pm &2-5pmTue-Fri, MS Donau SCHWÄBISCHEALB••Ulm celebrates bread asthestaff cruises theDanube at cruises (Monastery Church) and

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) BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG beer garden and a wide selection of gardenandawideselection salads. beer ful placeonthebanksof theDanubewitha 10am-10pm Sun) ads €5.60-8.80;mains€7.50-15.40; German; Kohlgasse 6;mainsfrom€8.60; German; bay windowsandfromtheterrace. with great viewsof theMünster the through Mon-Fri, 5am-2amSat,Sun&holidays) Mon-Fri, to have gonehomerelatively satisfied. Swabian dishes. Einstein ate here andis said ball lodged inthe walloutside. Italsoserves with lowceilingsand aNapoleon-eracannon- under thebridge. Ina 15th-century building specialityistrout,keptwhose fresh inacage restaurant, awashwith flowers inthespring, 21.50; (a kindof beet). Laubfrösche, fare. optionisthe Oneespeciallytasty ramic stove, goodwinesandcreative Swabian loads of 19th-centurywoodpanelling,ace- Mon-Fri) 16 of thembytheglass. Swabian dishes andoffers 90different wines, River. of Ithasagoodselection traditional thetwochannels between oftannery theBlau tavern inafive-century-old and bathhouse 14.90; andvegetarian dishes. include salads karaoke (from10pm). Edible options night locationinNewUlm).Tuesdayis its second kinds of (microbrewed prize-winningbeer at bar isvery popularthanksinparttoitsthree 12.80; dishes are featured onThursday. Friday specialityisfresh trout;extraSwabian taste –availableeveryone’s onlyhere. The –notto astrongmaltybeer Serves loggia. gardenisoverlookedbeer byanItalian-style man andSwabian restaurant courtyard whose special €5.50,mainsfrom€8.50; from centralUlm. after alate-late clubcrawl.Justacrosstheriver Weekend breakfasts beginat5am,perfect across fromtheMünster. NeueStrasse along thetwochannels of theBlauRiver, south There are quite afew pubsandrestaurants Eating &Drinking 430 Barfüsser Kannen Drei Zur Forelle Forelle Zur Bäumle Hotel Weinkrüger imStadthaus Café Tagblatt h h h NORTHERN BLACKFOREST NORTHERN Arustic 11am-midnight, to 1am Fri &Sat) 11am-midnight, to1amFri 10am-1am, to2amThu-Sat) 11am-2.30pm &5.30pm-midnight)

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( % 600 93;Münsterplatz50;sal- h h 11am-midnight) (winebar)with Thisrestaurant- A bright, cheer- Abright, 8am-10pm Mon-Sat, h Arusticwine 4pm-midnight mains €9.50- h Arustic Mangold AGer- 7am-2am Ulmer

canteen hasarestaurant,canteen café-bar andstage, thisone-time base, On aformerUSmilitary h Wileystrasse 4,NeuUlm; Hauptbahnhof, withaconcerthall,cinema, a formerindustrialplant1kmsouthof the erstrasse 1) ( There’s a local Around Getting hourly). to €30,1½hours, several hourly)andMunich (€22.10 one hour,several destinations includeStuttgart(€14.70to€22, of thenorth–southA7andeast–westA8. 140km westof Munich, isnearthe intersection Ulm, about 90kmsoutheastof Stuttgartand &Away There Getting bus 6totheWileyClubstop. 2.5km southof toget theAltstadt; there take and hostslive Situated musicanddiscoevents. line 1toEhinger Tor. forum.Takedisco, barandspecial-event tram tourist office. and somecafés.Events tickets are soldbythe monthly appearinthefree onculturalevents Details Entertainment the Rhine –thewest bankof whichthe Rhine isinthe south totheSwissborder, andfrom Baden stretch fromtheswishspatownof Baden- many’s famedSchwarzwald (BlackForest) The hills,valleys, rivers andforests of Ger- FOREST BLACK NORTHERN Bike paths goalongtheDanube. theHauptbahnhoftween andthebusstation. from tram line1. 1.5km northeastof theMünster that’son astadium park-and-ride lotatDonaustadion, many areas are limited toonehour. There’s a €0.60), thewholecitycentre ismetered; tourist office. % You canhire bikes, includingtandems, Ulm is well-served byICEtrains;major Ulm iswell-served Wiley Club Roxy It’s easytoordera inparkinggaragesExcept (perhalf-hour 6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pmSat,Sun&holidays) 6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 166 2120;www.swu-verkehr.de, inGerman) Radstation Radstation

( % Ahuge culturalvenue, in housed Spazz, 968 620; www.roxy.ulm.de in German; Schill- 968 620;www.roxy.ulm.deinGerman;

( % available atthetouristoffice ( 867 04; www.wiley-club.de, in German; 867 04;www.wiley-club.de,inGerman; % transport informationcounter transport h 150 0231; Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse; 150 0231;Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse; taxi 11am-1am, to 2am Fri &Sat) 11am-1am, to2amFri

( % lonelyplanet.com 660 66) . inthe , be-

lonelyplanet.com Branch tourist office Branch tourist Information outthefront. right central busstation 4km northwestof thetowncentre, withthe Oosbach –are withineasywalkingdistance. onthe westbankof Allee, thegurglingtaler ping streets. –includingLichten- Mostsights shop-which issurroundedbypedestrianised The heartof isLeopoldsplatz, Baden-Baden Orientation banned entirely). to enjoy(atoneof pockets them,deep are requirespas don’tnecessarily pockets deep as strolling,are free, thefamous andeven Many of activities,such themostdelightful avenues, groomedparksandchic boutiques. of hotels, palatialvillas,stately tree-lined yet relaxed, itoffers a spas, ageing butstillelegant.Sophisticated Black Forest, isthegrandedameof German the casino. to take thewaters theirfortunesin orlose the renowned – andthemoneyedwannabees –theroyal,rich, all cametoBaden-Baden they from BismarcktoBrahmsandBerlioz, VictoriatotheVanderbilts,From Queen % BADEN-BADEN exploring thearea. towns. Freudenstadt makes for agoodbase the KinzigValley, charming hometoseveral hilly butrelatively gentle terrain, includes withitsConstance. Thenorthernsection, French region of –eastalmosttoLake Alsace Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun) In the Trinkhalle. Sells events tickets. events Sells Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun)IntheTrinkhalle. The Bahnhof isinthesuburbofThe Bahnhof Oos,about atthefootofToday Baden-Baden, the

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R Rottweil i v Horb e To Lake r (15km) was inspired towrite theactionhere, Dostoevsky After observing call it‘themostbeautifulcasinointheworld’. lonelyplanet.com mainly of contemporary art. features temporary international exhibits, €5/4; Gallery; Art of theOpéra-GarnierinParis. frilly interior lookslike aminiature version fection of white-and-red whose sandstone by the along thisfragrantavenue. artists andwriters leisurely –taking strolls 19th-century Europe–aristocrats,diplomats, hard toimaginethemovers andshakers of enthal about 3km south.Even today,it’snot platz, adjacenttotheKurhaus,Kloster Licht- flow of Oosbach thesprightly fromGoethe- vegetation fromaroundtheworld,follows This elegantparkpromenade,planted with ALLEE LICHTENTALER plasticcupsfor€0.20. hours andsells wing chairs andaterrace, isopenthesame the springsbelow.Thecafé,which hasleather and until3amFridaySaturday)linked to (accessiblefrom10amto2am, water fromatap of andreputedly hot,salty curative mineral ends andmyths. Insideyoucanget afree glass rated with19th-centuryfrescoes of localleg- can amblebeneatha90m-longporticodeco- abranch ofhouses thetouristoffice. Here you the stands until 11.30amdaily. from 9.30am(10amOctober toMarch) who speakEnglish), offered half-hour every take a remainshoes forbidden,however. holes, are nowpermitted forbothsexes. Sports so longastheyare neat,cleanandwithout the timestheyare a-changin’, here: even jeans, sporty (forexampleshorts) ispermitted. But for womenare more relaxed butnothingtoo rentable for€8and€3respectively. Therules gamble butmenmustwearajacket andtie, range from€2to€50.Youdonothave to day andSaturdayonly).Minimumstakes American roulette, blackjack andpoker (Fri- be switched GamesincludeFrench off. and tional IDcardtoenter, andcellphonesmust The gateway isformed toLichtentaler Allee Nearby stands the Nearby stands In theleafyparkjustnorthof theKurhaus theinteriorA more isto casualwaytosee yourpassportorEuropeanna- You need h guided tour Baden-Baden Theater 11am-6pm Tue-Sun, 11am-8pmWed) % Trinkhalle 300 763;LichtentalerAllee 8a;adult/concession NORTHERN BLACKFOREST••Baden-Baden NORTHERN (€4; in German withguides (€4;inGerman (Pump Room; Kaiserallee 3) (Pump Room;Kaiserallee

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Mar, 2-5pm 25Dec–mid-Jan)Mar, Sat &Sunmid-Nov–mid- 2-5pm Fri, 2-5pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov, Römerplatz; adult/child under15yr€2/1; are the underneath theFriedrichsbad complex( p434 ), and very romanticstaircase. the Marktplatz byanarrow,vine-enveloped into afive-star hotel. Theterrace islinked to nishings andartworks.It’snowbeing turned problems forcedthemtoauctionoff thefur- family of butacute cash-flow Baden-Baden, was oneof theresidences of themargravial Neues Schloss climb uptotheterrace of theRenaissance depiction of Christ. thesuffering Gerhaert, withaheart-wrenchingly realistic Inside, lookforthecrucifixbyNicolaus of Romanesque,Gothicandbaroquestyles. Roman baths. Elsewhere, it’sahotchpotch incorporate partof theruinsof theformer the Two blocksnortheastof is Leopoldsplatz ALTSTADT &PANORAMAS buried. generations of themargraves of lie Baden 1245, withan Lichtenthal a brilliantlygoldenoniondome. Built intheByzantinestyle,itistoppedwith h admission€0.50; (Russian Church;1882;Maria-Victoria-Strasse; Said tobealmostSiberianisthe climate, tobealmostMediterranean. said 400 varietiesthatthrive inthelocalmicro- lage Baden-Baden’s as furnishings,photosandpaintingsfrom and othergamblingparaphernalia,aswell includehistoricroulette wheels highlights Sun, to8pmWed) Lichtentaler Allee10;adult/child€4/2; the particularly fromtheUSAandGermany. onmodernandcontemporary art, focuses designed byRichard Meier. Thecollections opened in2004astrikingmodernbuilding adult/student/family €8/6/18; LichtentalerAllee8b; 980; www.museum-frieder-burda.de; For wonderfulviewsover Baden-Baden, A bitfurthersouthisthenewhomeof About 1kmsouthof here isthe Four shortblockseastof thechurch, right concludesatthe Lichtentaler Allee 10am-6pm, maybeclosedDec-Jan) Next dooris , a rose gardenablaze withmore, arose than Stiftskirche Stadtmuseum Römische Badruinen , aCistercian abbeyfoundedin (Schlossstrasse)

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BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG Novelty Garden; Moltkestrasse; Moltkestrasse; Novelty Garden; metres of outdoorandindoorpools,hot and a Romanemperor,hasmore than900square 434 1913, whisks you up to the 668m-high summit 1913, whisks youuptothe668m-high €2/1.30, return €4/2; adult/child6-15yrone-way -baden-baden.de, inGerman; west of thecentre. the waterfalls Schloss Popular hikingdestinationsinclude HIKING are admitted fromage three. towelscanberented.stairs sauna; Children must beworneverywhere exceptintheup- suits(available forpurchase) Bathing sauna. range of includinganewlog-cabin saunas, peutic water massages, asurge channel anda variouswhirlpools, thera- cold water grottoes, 8pm) platz 11;2/3/4hr€12/14/16; Caracalla-Therme 14 are admitted withtheirparents. dren under14are notadmitted; children over the street withnospecialpreparation. Chil- creme etcare provided soyoucanwalkinoff skin except inthebigpool.Atowel,shoes, Thursday, whenmenandwomenare separate and baths are mixed exceptonMondayand modesty atthereception desk.Mostpools asagoose. feeling scrubbed,lubedandloose steamsaunas, roomsandbaths thatleave you of of atimedseries hotandcoldshowers, massage €29) Bath Roman-Irish temperatures rangingfrom18°Cto36°C.The in 1877,ithaslotsof smallpoolswithwater Built palacethanabathhouse. Renaissance ringed bycolumns,looksmore like aneo- 7pm) Römerplatz1; -irisches-bad.de; The famed SPAS Activities of theKurhaus. early Oct) headtothe Baden, of howtheRomansrelaxed. remains, youcan getwell-preserved asense No clothingisallowedinsidesoleave your ofFor anotherpanoramicvista Baden- A company,themodern Owned bythesame Yburg castle ruin Yburg , which opened in1985andisnamedfor , itsfocalpointanornate circularpool Standseilbahn NORTHERN BLACKFOREST••Baden-Baden NORTHERN , 2.5kmnorthof thecentre; , on the Beutig hilltop800msouthwest , ontheBeutig , 6kmsouthof and Leopoldsplatz; , three hours of humidbliss,consists Friedrichsbad (

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% % 8am-10pm, lastadmission 9am-sundown mid-Apr– 9am-10pm, lastadmission 275 920;www.roemisch 2770; www.stadtwerke , opened in Geroldsauer Geroldsauer

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Altes Altes from theStiftskirche, thisfamily-runhotel Steinstrasse 7;d€70-90) west of thebranch touristoffice, hasrather to theStiftskirche that’sgot23lovingly kept, Overall, excellentvalue. Overall, roomswithminimalistdécor.comfortable €30/62; 18;s/d€47/80,withoutbathroom -baden.de; Marktplatz you’re budget. onatight of thecheapest optionsintown.Passable if (two blockssouthof isone Leopoldsplatz) 40) .de; Lichtentalerstrasse19;d€55-75,swithoutbathroom€25- the church withthebiggreen dome. andwalk750mupthehillfrom Dollenstrasse hof orthetowncentre, take bus201toGrosse outdated facilities.Toget there fromtheBahn- €17.80/14.70; -baden.de; deducted fromthecostof theroom. the10%fee is service; has aroom-reservation there aren’t manybargains. Thetouristoffice ischoc-a-blockBaden-Baden withhotels but Sleeping take bus204or205fromLeopoldsplatz. of pedestrianised zonearound Leopoldsplatz. pedestrianised There are a number of restaurants inthe Eating water inyourbathtub. mineralwater between andtap can choose outdoor thermalbaths. In someroomsyou toandfromtheindoor guests shuffling itsownspaanddrovesstaff, of bathrobed out, withplush, spaciousquarters, attentive d €180-248; .badischer-hof.steigenberger.com; Lange Strasse47;s€120-154, er’s hometown. ings of theJewish inPrague,theown- ghetto rooms, manydecorated withprintsandpaint- in aclassic1920sbuilding,has22large quiet richbad place, complex,thiscomfortable pn Strasse31;s/dfrom€89/119; Gernsbacher -friedrichsbad.de; Mary Poppins. rooftop viewsthatare half cheerful rooms,somewithhas 11bright, This centrally located, 28-room guesthouse Thiscentrallylocated, 28-roomguesthouse Steigenberger BadischerHof Steigenberger Am Friedrichsbad amMarkt Hotel Löhr Hôtel-Gästehaus DJH hostel Rathausglöckel Rathausglöckel Mt Merkur pn ) Right across thestreet Right fromtheFried-

pns Hardbergstrasse 34;dm1st/subsequentnight n Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com , eastof thecentre. Toget there ( ) Afamily-runhotel next right % ) Thelocalhostel, 2.5kmnorth- ( 522 23;www.jugendherberge-baden % ( Half ablockdownthehill % Agreat placeforsplashing ) 906 10; www.rathausgloeckel.de; 906 10;www.rathausgloeckel.de; ( ( % % 270 40;www.hotel-am-markt 396 340;www.hotel-am 3060; bcs@brandau-catering belle époque lonelyplanet.com ( % 9340; www , half Steinstrasse 7;mains€15-18; 9am-6pm Sat) dishes, meatandfish. uplarge creative salads, bar thatserves pasta trendy andhugely popularbistroandwine h lonelyplanet.com for aone-zone singleticket, and €2foratwo- ( run by Local buses, BUS Around Getting ICE, 15to30minutes). minutes) andKarlsruhe (€5,more byICor include Freiburg (€15.70to€24, 45to80 rail corridor. Twice-hourly destinations (see p436 ), alsoknown astheB500. point of thescenicSchwarzwald-Hochstrasse autobahn)andisthenorthernstarting Basel next totheBahnhof. situatedtions departfromthebusstation, London andDublinbyRyanair. .badenairpark.de) airport Karlsruhe-Baden-Baden &Away There Getting in theKurhaus. www.philharmonie.baden-baden.de) opera andballet. 2,Robert-Schumann-Platz) Alten Bahnhof Festspielhaus theEnsconced inanhistorictrainstation, Entertainment 44 (thepostoffice). Strasse zone,facingLange the pedestrianised and veggies atthisplacethenorthernendof cuisine (includingvegetarian options). humour gowellwiththeFrench andGerman ings, ArtNouveau mirrors andFrench of sense Schloss’ one-time winecellar,thevaulted ceil- 21.50; ern classicalmusic.Has insummer. salads tions, totheaccompanimentof relaxing West- cuisine,includingvegetarianlocal Baden op- century building,isagoodplacetosample & 6-9pmThu-Sun) % Leo’s Baden-Baden is close totheA5(Frankfurt– isclose Baden-Baden La Provence Baden-Baden isonamajorBaden-Baden north–south toavarietyofBuses BlackForest destina- The Früchte Kaiser Rathausglöckel 8am-3am) 2771; www.stadtwerke-baden-baden.de) h Baden-Badener Philharmonie ( % noon-11pm, to 1am Fri &Sat) noon-11pm, to1amFri Self-caterers Self-caterers canbuyfresh fruits Near Leopoldsplatz, Leo’s isa Leo’s NearLeopoldsplatz, 380 81;Luisenstrasse 10;mains€9.50-21.50; ( ( % , 15kmwestof town,islinked to Thisrusticrestaurant, ina16th- % NORTHERN BLACKFOREST••Freudenstadt NORTHERN

301 3101;www.festspielhaus.de; Beim (Langestrasse; ( 216 515;Schlossstrasse20;mains€13.50- % 906 10; www.rathausgloeckel.de; 906 10;www.rathausgloeckel.de; Stadtwerke Baden-Baden Stadtwerke h 6-9pm Wed,11.30am-2pm h often performs

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( % 932 791;

733; www.freudenstadt.de; Marktplatz 64; 733; www.freudenstadt.de; Marktplatz Tourist office Tourist Post office ATMs side theStadtbahnhof. out- hofstrasse. isright Thecentral busstation southeast of theMarktplatz attheendof Bahn- platz, andtheHauptbahnhof, about 2km about five minutes’ walknorthof theMarkt- theStadtbahnhof, centrally locatedstations: which isontheB28.Thetownhastwotrain Freudenstadt’s focalpointisthe Marktplatz, &Information Orientation quasi-urban charm. tion Freudenstadt retains someof itsunique, end of WWII,butthanksto postwar restora- ists. TheFrench wreaked havoc here atthe thefirsta raillinkbrought waves of tour- rising againuntilthemid-19thcentury,when obscurity after theduke’s deathin1610,not realised. Thetownfellplan wasnever into the square withapalacebutthisgrandiose ing 216mby219m.Friedrich hopedtoadorn market square, largest, Germany’s measur- laid outlike aspiderweb. ration andcamebackwiththeideaforatown ardt, hescoured BolognaandRomeforinspi- with hisfavourite architect, Heinrich Schick- Together1599 decidedtobuildanewcapital. Duke Friedrich Iof Württemberg, whoin Forest, thisspatownwasthebrainchild of forexploringthenorthernBlack A goodbase % FREUDENSTADT of theRussische Kirche. town) andpoppingtothesurfacejustsouth Festspielhaus (atthenorthernentranceto tre, duckingunderground justwestof the awayfromthetowncen- D500, routes traffic and walk. soit’sbesttopark or blocked totraffic, off Much of thecentre iseitherpedestrianised CAR &MOTORCYCLE Monday toFriday. withtheairportfrom 205 linkstheBahnhof Bus withLeopoldsplatz. link theBahnhof two tofive people). three zones,isabetter dealat€4.20(€6.50for zone ticket, butthe24-hourpass,validfor At Freudenstadt’s centre isagigantic Michaelstunnel, a2.5kmtunnelonthe 10minutes)Bus 201(every andotherlines 07441 /pop23,000 There ontheMarktplatz. are several (Marktplatz 64) (Marktplatz ( % 864 730, hotel reservations 864 864 730,hotel reservations h 9am-6pm

435 BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG Kids may alsoenjoythe four Evangelists. like it’sbeingcarriedon theshoulders of the painted wooden Ulm-school Gothic cate awall-mounted animalornamentations, baptismal font towers. Ofnote insideisastoneCluniac-style andbaroque portals windows, Renaissance duke. It’s a potpourriof styles,with Gothic unusual designbythegeometrically minded are anglestoeach atright other–yes,another ( is anchored bytheProtestant of shops. cades providing weatherproof accesstodozens roads. Alongtheperimeter are Italianate ar- parts byaT-junction of heavily trafficked square, especially sinceit’schopped intothree The Marktplatz istoohuge toreally feel like a Sights &Activities are free. Hotel reservations Nov-Apr) Hasaninternetterminal(per5/60min€0.50/6) 10am-1pmSat,11am-1pmSun&holidays 5pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 10am-2pmSat,Sun&holidaysMay-Oct; Mon-Fri, 436 h Near the church is a In itssouthwestern corner,theMarktplatz

tourist offices. friendship, winegrowing,clock-making andspas. Detailsandbrochures are availableatlocal More thanjustpretty drives, manyoftheseroutes focusonatheme,suchas Franco–German TOP FIVESCENICDRIVESINTHEBLACK FOREST 10am-5pm) GrüneStrasse(Green Road):linkstheBlackForest withtheRhineValley andtheVosges inVillingen- DeutscheUhrenstrasse (GermanClockRoad):a320km-longloopstarting BadischeWeinstrasse(BadenWineRoad):anoenologists delight.FromBaden-Badensouthto Schwarzwald-Bäder-Strasse (BlackForest alloftheregion’s SpaRoad):aloopconnecting spa Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse(BlackForest Hwy):officiallyknownastheB500,thisconnects .jugendherberge.de; dm1st/subsequentnight€17.90/14.70; .jugendherberge.de; Freudenstadt. youcangetthere FromMaytoOctober bybustwiceaday. Kirchzarten, Freiburg,Kirchzarten, Breisach, Neuf-Brisach,ColmarandMunster. the twocountries. andcyclists,this160kmroute youthrough Popularwithhikers takes Mountains inFrance. Itwasdeveloped tohighlightandstrengthen theculturallinksbetween include Triberg andFurtwangen. Schwenningen thatrevolves aroundthestoryofclock-making intheBlackForest. Stops andTuniberg,Kaiserstuhl vinesofMarkgräflerland. andthewhite-wine Lörrach, this160kmroute windsthroughthered-wine thePinot vineyardsofOrtenau, Noirof towns including,ofcourse,Baden-BadenandFreudenstadt. best known.There are plentyofhotels enroute anda ofwhichtheMummelseeis anumberoflakes, Mountains inAlsace(France)andskirts Forest, itaffordsexpansive viewsoftheUpperRhineValley west,theVosges and,further Baden-Baden withFreudenstadt, 60kmtothesouth.The oldesttouristroadintheBlack NORTHERN BLACKFOREST••Freudenstadt NORTHERN , built in 1608, whose twonaves, builtin1608,whose (early12thcentury)withintri- lectern crucifix (from1140)thatlooks Panorama-Bad children’s playground children’s (c1470)anda Stadtkirche (

% 921

. pool. It’s served bybus12toKniebis. pool. It’sserved hasaheatedB28, even outdoorswimming ground, about 3kmwestof townalongthe -langenwald.de; StrasburgerStrasse167; Eugen-Nägele-Strasse 69;dm1st/subsequentnights Eugen-Nägele-Strasse pools atthenorthernedge of town. complex of indoorandoutdoorswimming h 60; adult/child6-17yrallday€8/6.50,inclsauna€13/10; Ludwig-Jahn-Strasse 300; www.panorama-bad.de,inGerman; Hauptbahnhof. bylinesthat includebus15 from the served Strasse. Thenearest busstopisBerufsschule, Stadtbahnhof attheendof Gottlieb-Daimler- tel islocated about 1kmnortheastof the €18.30/15.10; €5.50/4/3; with afree phone. Outside thetouristoffice there’s ahotel board Sleeping &Eating options Maps onthearea’s withdetails myriad paths –andreturning toFreudenstadt bytrain. ortheMurgtal –bothvalleyshavezigtal bike n DJH hostel DJH hostel Langenwald Camping options Biking 9am-10pm Mon-Sat,9am-8pmSun&holidays) ) DJH hostel in Zuflucht, about 19km north of inZuflucht, about19kmnorth are available atthetouristoffice. h n Easter-1 Nov) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ) Freudenstadt’s 130-bed hos- ( includecyclingdowntheKin- %

( % 7720; www.jugendherberge.de; 07804-611; www This excellentcamping ( % 2862; www.camping lonelyplanet.com

person/tent/car , ahuge hiking hiking Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com has tasty international, German andregional international,has tasty German and 5pmto10pmdailyexceptWednesday, The restaurant, openfrom11.30amto2pm run hotel has16cheery andspotlessrooms. bahnhof andMarkt, family- thisno-nonsense pn 15-17; s/dfrom€40/66,withoutbathroom€33/52; lonelyplanet.com and regional buses. is linked tothe Marktplatz byvariouslocal TheHauptbahnhoflink thetwotrainstations. trains andlotsof localandregional buses anywhere withintowncosts €1.30.Some routes (A,B,C,Dand15);aticket fortravel www.vgf-info.de, in German) Freudenstadt’s Around Getting viaAlpirsbach. runs fromRastatt (Black Forest Valley Road,ietheB462),which also aterminus of theSchwarzwald-Tälerstrasse Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse (see opposite ). It’s Strasbourg, France. Tübingen in andwesttothetrainstation the Hauptbahnhof. 1½ hours) fromboththeStadtbahnhof and toKarlsruhesuburban railline)goes (€13.40, bahnhof. ThehourlyMurgtalbahn (theS41 to Offenburg, leave hourlyfromtheHaupt- railline,which goes Trains ontheKinzigtal &Away There Getting warm season) (Marktplatz; the website. from 9pmandSunday5pm)appearon disco parties,heldonFridayandSaturday (suchon events asconcerts,guestDJsand the mosthappeningplaceintown.Details gardenandrestaurant,a beer andisprobably rustic-style microbrewery doubledutyas does &Sat) Fri 64;mains€5.20-14.80; Marktplatz costs €8to€11. furniture. Thedailythree-course lunch special rooms thatare tidilyoutfitted withwooden n Forststrasse6;s/dfrom€38/78; -freudenstadt.de, inGerman; €7 to€18. andSwabian)(Badisch cuisine;mainscost Hotel Adler Hotel Freudenstadt marksthesouthernendof the Bus 178makes twotripsadayeast to Self-caterers couldcheck outthe Turmbräu Schwanen Hotel ) Family-run andfriendly,thishotel has17 ) Right nexttothetouristoffice, this Right Located theStadt- midwaybetween h . ( % ( Fri morningsyear-round,TueFri morningin % 905 121; www.turmbraeu.de, in German; 905 121;www.turmbraeu.de,inGerman; NORTHERN BLACK FOREST •• Kinzig Valley BLACKFOREST••Kinzig NORTHERN bus network 915 20;www.adler-fds.de; Forststrasse ( % consists of five local 915 50;www.schwanen h

( % 10am-1am, to3am 07443-247 340; food market

centrepiece monastery. Ro- of aBenedictine badstrasse 5) tourist office. manesque instyle,itshas ared-sandstone 1.30-3.30pm Wed,Sat& Sun2Nov–mid-Mar) 5.30pm mid-Apr–1Nov, 10am-4.30pmmid-Mar–mid-Apr, Freudenstädterstrasse; adult/student €3/2.30; Benedict attraction isthe11th-century centre,has asmallmedieval butthemain Alpirsbach, 18kmorsosouthof Freudenstadt, % Alpirsbach can change forKonstanz. Villingen andDonaueschingen, where you Gengenbach. Schiltach, Wolfach, Hausach, Haslach and in theKinzigValley villages of Alpirsbach, (on theKarlsruhe–Freiburg line),stopping Hauptbahnhofdenstadt’s withOffenburg raillinelinksFreu-The hourlyKinzigtal TRAIN in Hausach. can pickuptheB33toTriberg andbeyond north toOffenburg. Ifyou’re goingsouth,you toHaslach,stadt fromwhere theB33leads The B294followstheKinzigfromFreuden- CAR &MOTORCYCLE Hausach. Alpirsbach, Schiltach, Wolfach, Gutach and to Friday,bus7161linksFreudenstadt with Offenburg andTriberg.tween FromMonday Bus 7160traverses thevalleyonitsroute be- BUS &Away There Getting and shippinggoodsbyraft. forcenturiesonmining survived inhabitants fromRomancattledogs.Thevalley’s evolved that feared caninebreed, theRottweiler, valley linksStrasbourg withRottweil,where Rhine. ally swallowedupbythemighty bourg, 95kmdownriver, theKinzigiseventu- Haslach andnorthtoOffenburg. NearStras- Kinzig River southtoSchiltach, thenwestto south of Freudenstadt and follows thelittle The horseshoe-shaped Kinzig Valley begins KINZIG VALLEY From Hausach, trainsgosoutheasttoTriberg, A 2000-year-old traderoute the through 07444 /pop7000 There’s a

( % in theKurhaus,400msouthof the 951 6281; www.schloesser-und-gaerten.de; 951 6281;www.schloesser-und-gaerten.de; bike rental station rental bike ( %

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437 BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG herberge.de; Reinerzauer Steige80;dm1st/subsequentnight herberge.de; Reinerzauer Schwarzwald area forthelocallybrewed seum tourist draws, the River) is oneof theBlackForest’s biggest along theB33(which follows theGutach A 4kmdetour southof theKinzigValley pop 4500 Gutach There’s anATM justbelowtheMarktplatz. sign acrossthestreet fromthetourist office. Various hikingoptionsappearonanenamel Marktplatz, can helpfindaccommodation. Oct-Apr) 9am-noon&2-5pmMon-ThuSat May-Sep, morning &Fri Hauptstrasse 5; the town’shistory. 1500s; themurals,painted in1942,illustrate look atthestep-gabled built onapretty steepslope. Take acloser River andaroundthetriangular village isatitsmostscenicalongtheSchiltach Rivers. amidforests, thispicture-perfect Set at theconfluenceof theKinzigandSchiltach Schiltach, about18kmsouthof Alpirsbach you’lllove houses, If youlike half-timbered % Schiltach train station. about 1.5kmnorth(upthehill)from €18.30/15.10; to Lossburg. mation onthe many hikingoptionsand,forcyclists,infor- venue. thearea’s Itcansupplymapsdetailing inside Haus events desGastes, amultipurpose .de; Hauptstrasse20) may speakEnglish. Klosterkirche, guides are though inGerman, museum brewery Alpirsbacher Klosterbräu. Guidedtours of the or 8.30pm. host toconcertsonSaturdayateither5pm monasticlife.everyday Thecomplexplays discovereddentally in1958,thatillustrate bits andbobs fromthe16thcentury,acci- dates from 1480,andthe a flat,wood-beam ceiling.TheGothic façade andanalmostunadornedinterior with 438 The The townisbestknownaroundthe The The 122-bed 07836 /pop4100

(Black Forest Open-Air Museum; (Black Forest Open-AirMuseum; NORTHERN BLACK FOREST •• Kinzig Valley BLACKFOREST••Kinzig NORTHERN , acrosstheSchiltach River fromthe tourist office tourist tourist office tourist n h ) Kinzigtalradweg 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon 9am-noon &2-5pmMon-Fri, islocated above thetown, (€6;

is next to the train station, isnexttothetrainstation, DJH hostel h

Schwarzwald Freilicht Mu- Freilicht Schwarzwald

( % ( tours at2.30pm) % Rathaus 951 6281;www.alpirsbach 5850; www.schiltach.de;

museum ( % fromOffenburg 2477; www.jugend , builtinthelate % , nexttothe 07831-935 60; showcases showcases Marktplatz cloister ,

Mon-Fri mid-Oct–Mar) Mon-Fri 8am-noon&1-5pm 10am-5pm Sun&holidaysApr–mid-Oct, German; the museum. Originally fromGutach, it’snowasymbol for unmarriedwomen,blackmarried. net festooned withwoollenpompons –red headdresses istheBollenhut,astrawbon- Among thefeatured traditionalwomen’s &Feb-Mar) mid-Oct–Dec 9am-noon&1-5pmTue-Fri Oct, h admission€2; .de.vu, ImAltenKapuzinerkloster; inGerman; Forest Costumes; Trachtenmuseum Schwarzwälder monastery,Capuchin the which nowhouses teresting buildingisthe17th-centuryformer butthe mostin- houses, some half-timbered daysithasapretty with town. These Altstadt shutdownitbecameasimplemarketthese from silver minesintheMiddleAges butwhen intheKinzigValley,Back Haslach prospered % Haslach inside knowwhatthey’re doing. authentically furnishedandthecraftspeople is notentirely kitsch-free are butthehouses locations aroundtheregion. Thecomplex have moved been here fromtheiroriginal with abakery, chapel sawmill, andgranary– –along the valleysince1570.Otherfarmhouses a traditionalfarminghamletthathasstoodin Nov, to8pmAug) student/family €5/2.50/3/11; www.vogtsbauernhof.org, adult/child6-17yr/ inGerman; the town’s twotower-topped gates. Onthe the kirche flower boxes, andwander downtothe withcrimson geraniumshouses spillingoutof narrow lanes,pasthandsomepatrician town- its by masstourism.Youcanstrollthrough Offenburg, hasremained relatively unspoiled This romantic village, about11kmsouthof % Gengenbach ally, atweddingceremonies. during religious processionsand,occasion- costumes are holidays, stillwornonimportant as 5kg.AroundtheSchwarzwald, traditional hundreds of asmuch beadsthatcanweigh Schäppel, afragile-lookingcrownmadefrom of theentire BlackForest. Andthere’s the The 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pmSun&holidaysApr–mid- 07832 /pop6900 07803 /pop11,000 Rathaus , withitslovely baroquetower, orto h tourist office tourist 8am-noon &1.30-5pmMon,9am-5pmTue-Sat, (1780s), about midway between (1780s), aboutmidwaybetween . It’scentred onthe % 706 172;www.trachtenmuseum-haslach is in the same buildingas isinthesame

( % h 706 170;www.haslach.de,in 9am-6pm early Apr-early 9am-6pm earlyApr-early lonelyplanet.com

(Museum ofBlack (Museum Vogtbauernhof Stadt- . , 10am-noon &2-5pmSunApr-Oct) Niggelturm, Hauptstrasse;admission€2; are €9.50aday. bikes bikesspeed cost€5.50aday;mountain Hauptstrasse 21,rents outbicycles–three- the seven floors ofthe seven the before weeks canbeadmired Easter) seven on version of heldover Carnival, sixdaysabout and costumeswornduring asaFree status ImperialCity.Masksmedieval of asymbolofa statue aknight, the village’s triangular lonelyplanet.com southwest of theMünster, isthe intersection of focal point,situatedThe Altstadt’s twoblocks Orientation exploring theSchwarzwald. yourself while rific placetovisitandbase to understand whyFreiburg issuch ater- of restaurants, bars andclubs,it’seasy a lively culturalsceneand anexcellentrange tions, ledbythesuperbMünster. Addtothis endowed withawealthof historicalattrac- by thevelvety hills of theBlackForest, itis of athrivinguniversity community.Framed Black Forest, hasthehappy-go-lucky attitude Freiburg, western gateway totheSouthern % FREIBURG your journeywiththehelpof www.efa-bw.de. Black Forest. See p444 Youcanplan fordetails. to townsandvillages thesouthern throughout tensive, reasonably pricedbusandraillinks Various public-transportgroupingsoffer ex- Around Getting valley cityof StBlasieninthesoutheast. inthenorth;andcharmingcapital, river- inthesouthwest;Triberg, cuckoo-clock Rhine university cityof Freiburg, 15kmeastof the aresights inthetriangledelimited bythelively Many of theSchwarzwald’s mostimpressive FOREST SOUTHERN BLACK the courtyardaroundtouristoffice. noon SatMay-Oct) Sep-Jun,Mon-Fri nomiddayclosure Jul&Aug,alsoopen10am- ImWinzerhof; .de, inGerman; There are placestoeatanddrinkin several The 0761 /pop213,000 tourist office tourist Marktplatz , inthecourtyardacrossfrom SOUTHERNBLACKFOREST••Freiburg (

% you’ll find a fountain with with you’llfindafountain 930 143;www.stadt-gegenbach h Narrenmuseum . 9am-12.30pm &1.30-5pm h Fasend 2-5pm Wed & Sat, 2-5pm Wed&Sat, (the local (thelocal (

% 5749; 5749; 11am-7pm Sun)Internetaccess. h Bertoldstrasse 10)AhugebookshopwithEnglishtitles. Bertoldstrasse Laundry customersget10free onlineminutes. ziptothefarcornersofglobe. while upstairselectrons that’s alsoaninternetcafé?!Dudshitsudsinthecellar laundry didn’t someonethinkofthisbefore –aself-service machine €4; the tower by afiligreed spire. 116m-high An upandis crowned higher comes anoctagon bread) were of the requisite size. make sure (egloaves that merchandise of to Nearby are wallmarkingsused medieval with snakes himself. onherback)andSatan cal figures such asVoluptuousness(theone Old andNewTestaments –lookforallegori- wealth of sculptures depictingscenesfromthe market square. Its (as then)surroundedbythecity’sbustling marvellous Münster, begunin1200andnow Freiburg’s townscapeisdominated byits MÜNSTER Sights Wash &Tours Wasch &Fun Laundry office Tourist Tee-Online Shake-n-Surf Post office Police station Herder Buchhandlung Rombach Information southernedge.along theAltstadt’s edge of The Dreisam theAltstadt. River runs which adjacent busstation, definethewestern About 600mwestistheHauptbahnhof andthe south artery, witheast–westBertoldstrasse. Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse, thecentre’s mainnorth– Hauptbahnhof, onthegroundfloorofInterCityHotel. Hauptbahnhof, tothe next 10pm) Cheeryinternetaccessandfruitshakes Mon-Sat) Hotelinformation and theusefulbooklet place sells1:50,000-scalecyclingmaps(€4.50to€10) this andwellstocked, Friendly Sun &holidaysOct-May) 9.30am-2.30pmSat,10am-noon 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm Sat&10am-noonSunholidaysJun-Sep, 14; .baden24.de; Rotteckring assortment offoreign-language booksandmaps. assortment h The sturdy

11am-9pm Mon-Thu, &Sat, 11am-8pmFri 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pmSat)Stocksagood 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, ( %

(adult/student €1.50/1; (Eisenbahnstrasse 58-62) (Eisenbahnstrasse h (Grünwälderstrasse19;perhr€3.50; 282 820; Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse 180; 282 820;Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse ( (Bismarckallee 5;perhr€3; (Bismarckallee (Salzstrasse22;perhr€3,laundry (Rotteckring) kiosk outfrontindicatesroomavailability. kiosk 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat)Why 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, % tower 388 1885/6;www.freiburg.de, www Freiburg – Official Guide Freiburg –Official main portal (Egonstrasse25; , square be- atthebase, h ( % 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, h 4500 2400; isadornedwitha 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, h h (€4).The 9am-10pm 10am- ascent of ascent of

439 BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG

panels look forapretzel, scissors and other financed byvariousguilds –inthebottom windows stained-glass theVosges inFrance. Mountains see intricate construction;onacleardayyoucan top, provides anexcellent viewof thechurch’s 1-5pm Sun&holidays) 440 (300m) Schemmer To Hotel Wannerstr 4 1 3 Guntramstr 2 5 FREIBURG (3.5km) (2.5km); Avis To Europcar Inside theMünster, the kaleidoscopic Stühlinger Baden-Baden (110km) (50km); Colmar(54km); (50km); EuroAirportBasel (35km); VitraDesignMuseum Kaiserstuhl (30km);EuropaPark To A5(4.5km);Breisach(30km); Platz SOUTHERN BLACKFOREST••Freiburg Klarastr 8 Schnewlinstr 47

Footbridge

ors fie...... C3 Tourist Office...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Martinskirche...... Kollegiengebäude I...... Historisches Kaufhaus...... Haus zumWalfisch...... Gerichtslaube...... Bertoldsbrunnen...... Augustinermuseum...... Altes Rathaus...... Alte Universitätsbibliothek...... Wash &Tours...... Wasch &FunLaundry...... Tee-Online...... Shake-n-Surf...... Post Office...... Police Station...... Herder...... Buchhandlung Rombach...... Egonstr AC

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28 EATING SLEEPING Eis Mariotti...... City-Supermarkt...... Stadthotel Kolping...... Hotel zumRotenBären...... Hotel SchwarzwälderHof...... Hotel Oberkirch...... Hotel Minerva...... City-Hotel...... University Quarter...... Schwabentor...... Neues Rathaus...... Frühgeschichte...... Museum fürStadtgeschichte..... Museum fürNeueKunst...... Münster...... Museum fürUr-und C4 Martinstor...... Werderring

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41 Karlstr Bernhardstr C4 D4 C4 D4 Schlossbergring A3 A3 A3 A4 C4 C4 D4 D3 B4 32 200 m B31 (2.8km) (700m) . high To , Art; Art; exhibitions to8pmThu) incl specialexhibition€7/5; 2515; Münsterplatz30;adult/concession€2/1; allegiance. ofHouse Habsburg andindicate Freiburg’s above thebalconyrepresent members of the of armsontheorielsand fourfigures a merchants’ hallbuiltin1530.Thecoats lonelyplanet.com tinstor, consists of aneclecticmixof oldand The WESTERN ALTSTADT fantastic! Aussichtsturm and istoppedbytheicecream–cone-shaped French builtafortthere inthelate 1600s) which dominates thetown(that’swhy here, trailsleaduptheforested ning underitstwoarches. Fromjusteastof a massive citygate withtramtracksrun- is themuralled,13th-century Kunst, atthesoutheastern endof Salzstrasse, since thecity’sfoundingin1091. city’s twomainthoroughfares have crossed markingthespotwherestatue-fountain the leadsyoutothe Strasse gates. Heading northalongKaiser-Joseph- Strasse) get youtothelandmark Fischerau ist andabstractart. 20th centurywithitscollectionof expression- in acentury-oldschool building,leapsintothe as oneof in themostimportant Germany. glass fromtheMiddleAges tothepresent ranks and Cranach, whileitscollectionof stained Matthiaspaintings byBaldung, Grünewald extensive collectionof artincludes medieval Tue-Sun). Augustinerplatz 1;adult/concession€2/1; entrance tothe past. eventful Tue-Sun) a himself für Stadtgeschichte days, thebuildingisoccupiedby the eyetoelaborate ceilingfresco. Nowa- railingwhich withawrought-iron guides case in1761.Insideisawonderfulstair-Kaufhaus Admission to this museum alsocoversAdmission tothismuseum The sculptorChristianWentzinger built A longblockeastof fürNeue theMuseum the Following thelittlecanalwestthrough The % university quarter university , oneof town Freiburg’s twosurviving 201 2581; Marienstrasse 10;adult/concession€2/1, 201 2581;Marienstrasse , where youcanlearnallabout Freiburg’s Museum fürNeueKunst Museum Housed inaformermonastery, its Housed , theformerfishing quarter, willsoon baroque townhouse (lookouttower);theviewsare SOUTHERNBLACKFOREST••Freiburg Augustinermuseum

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In anArtNouveau–influenced buildingjust north of thisfour-star theAltstadt, placehas place is a good showcase forthecharmsplace isagoodshowcase of ing.de; Karlstrasse 7;s€72-82,d€114-124; ing.de; Karlstrasse 156; .de; Münsterplatz 22&Schusterstrasse 11;s€92-115,d€115- of theoldtown. and very white; somehave charming views to the45rooms,which are simplyfurnished from thelobby,entered viatinyMünzgasse, railingleads withawrought-iron lar staircase €55/89/150, s/dwithoutbathroomfrom€38/65) waelder-hof.eu; Herrenstrasse 43;s/d/5-personstefrom rooms. Planck Institut,has15simplebutspacious tinstor andacrossthestreet fromtheMax family-run hotel, a1.5kmwalksouthof Mar- €50/70, withoutbathroom€45/60; Günterstalstrasse38;s/d -deutscher-kaiser.com inGerman; get offtheB31atEschholzstrasse. There’s free parking acrossthestreet. Bycar, pension is planned. two different studios;afitnessroom massage like includeaspaciouslobby style. and Extras roomsfurnished inabusiness- 94 comfortable rooms are large, cleanandorderly. design.The 42 practical, modernGerman Weberstrasse 3;s/dfrom€85/114; sauna. scheme on each floor. Amenitiesincludea andmodern,withadifferentsleek colour the citycentre a five-minute and walkfromthetrainstation Poststrasse8;s€75-90,d€105-115; .de, inGerman; City-Hotel City-Hotel Minerva Hotel Hof Schwarzwälder Hotel Gasthaus Deutscher Kaiser DeutscherKaiser Gasthaus Hotel Oberkirch Oberkirch Hotel Kolping Stadthotel p ) -style placeisagoodbudget option. Facing theMünster –youcan’t get Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ( % . The 26 comfortable roomsareThe 26comfortable ( 388 070;www.cityhotel-freiburg.de; % ( % ( % 386 490;www.minerva-freiburg 202 6868;www.hotel-oberkirch 319 30;www.stadthotel-kolp (

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) garden. Serves upsomegoodvegetarian op- garden. Serves ish microbrewery withFreiburg’s bestbeer ern endofHebelstrasse; Mon-Fri) Mon-Fri) strasse; mains€5.35-11.30; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com drink onetoomany, beextracareful notto the beds. Small singles start at€62. the beds.Smallsinglesstart over cons; somealsocomewithhalf-canopies have flowerywallpaperandthelatest mod- any more centralthanthis.Thetasteful rooms lonelyplanet.com dinner for theopen-jawed fall inthe adjacentstream oryou may become and salad tions andabsolutely enormous schnitzels with mains €6-12; 600msouth ofthe Altstadt, Martinstor. music. It’ssituated acrosstheDreisam from tions, totheaccompanimentof mellowPersian Persian dishes,includinglotsof vegetarian op- deliciousandreasonably priced place serves with localswholive andworknearby,this 11.30pm. with some porcine,others bovine andyetothers specialities– upheartyBaden-style and serves home-brewed beers, someof themseasonal, cellar microbrewery of hasagoodselection Down thealleyfromMartinstor, thisrustic mains €5.10-15.10; lunches.fast, tasty ian, Indian,Korean andFrench counters offer h before locations. you at these andotherfillingfodderwillopen buffets salad Sat) holiday periods); blocks east,alongKonviktstrasse. andGartenstrasse)sitätsstrasse and,several around Martinstor (forexampleonUniver- of cheap eatsoptions,quite afew of them As auniversity town,Freiburg hasallsorts Eating &Drinking The backroomslookoutonaquietgarden. the 25roomshave woodenfurnishings. sleek thecellarismedieval, Butthough in Germany. to 1120andclaimsbetheoldestguesthouse inside theSchwabentor, thisplacedates back -baeren.de; Oberlinden12;s/dfrom€105/145; Hotel zum Roten Bären Bären zumRoten Hotel Hausbrauerei FeierlingHausbrauerei Bräu Martin’s Restaurant Pars Restaurant Markthalle cafeterias Mensa IfyoucanproducestudentID,aworldof 8am-7pm) Spätzle Stefan-Meier-Strasse 28 h Brägele A food court whose Mexican, Afoodcourtwhose Ital-

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( % (Münzgasse1; ( ( % % 01805-55 6656;www.badische ( 383 115;Konviktstrasse12; 202 6868; Münsterplatz 22; 202 6868;Münsterplatz22; h ( An old-fashioned % until 1pm Mon-Fri, to until 1pmMon-Fri, Weinstube Freiburg Aktuell, h 387 0013;Kaiser- h h h h 8am-7pm Mon- 8.30am-7pm 9am-7pm Mon- h 9am-6.30pm 7.30am- h 11am-1am 11am-1am with 10am- Fac- 443

BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG tensive, reasonably pricedbusandraillinks .suedbadenbus.de, www.rvf.de, both in German) bothinGerman) .suedbadenbus.de, www.rvf.de, or two). to EuroAirport(€16,55minutes, hour every goes northinto theBlackForest.goes TheB294 Constance. toLake the Höllental Freiburg. The scenicB31leadseastthrough just westof A5passes The Frankfurt–Basel CAR &MOTORCYCLE date uponboarding. chines orfromthedriver andbesure tovali- rate. Buytickets from thered vending ma- .vag-freiburg.de) ischarged attheone-zone to/from Freiburg. Black Forest forotherbusoptions section the varioustownlistingsinSouthern See Schiltach (2¼ hours) intheKinzigValley. Monday toFridayHaslach, Hausach and (€1). timetables worth pickinguponeof the detailed If you’llbeusinglotsof publictransportit’s and €7.20/14.40/14.40fortwotofive people. hours, costs€4.80/9.60/9.60foroneperson age sixto14);aRegio24ticket, goodfor24 zones cost€2/3.40/4.80(halfthatforchildren Black Forest. Singletickets forone/two/three to townsandvillages thesouthern throughout .de, inGerman) The BUS London andLutonwithEasyJet. (France).DestinationsincludeMulhouse .euroairport.com) Freiburg shares anairport, AIR &Around There Getting the tornadosculptures outfront. vention centre. andculturalevents Don’tmiss modern concerthallthatdoublesasacon- Konrad-Adenauer-Platz1) .de, inGerman; popular withpeopleof allages. andis 4am onFridayandSaturdaynights, (admission about €6)from11pmto3amor Itbecomesadisco thewebsite fordetails). see (lessfrequentlyweek fromJunetoAugust; (€10 to€30)at8pmleastthree a nights pop, blues,hip-hopandworldmusicconcerts cellar, thisfirst-rate venue hostsjazzrock, 444 SüdbadenBus Konzerthaus Bus andtramtravel within Freiburg (www From Freiburg, bus1066travels onceaday Airport Bus Airport SOUTHERN BLACKFOREST••AroundFreiburg goes fromFreiburg’s goes busstation , with Basel (Switzerland)and , withBasel

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pavilion justover thebridge fromtheHaupt- the bahnhof, rents bikes cyclingmaps andsells 17yr halfprice; Wenzingerstrasse15;3hr/day/week€5/12.50/50,under German; and thenintoFrance. Dreisam River, leadingwestwardtoBreisach Bike paths runalongbothbanksof the BICYCLE (€4.80, 27minutes, atleasthourly). hour). There’s alocalconnectiontoBreisach (€4.80,38minutes,Titisee-Neustadt twicean of toDonaueschingen theHöllentalbahn via minutes). Freiburg isalsothewestern terminus (€15.70to€24,4580 utes) andBaden-Baden (€12.80to€19.80,5080min- such asBasel so there are frequent departures fordestinations Freiburg isonamajor north–southrailcorridor TRAIN Strasse). (the southerncontinuationof Kaiser-Joseph- drivethe Altstadt southonGünterstalstrasse (eg Türkenlouisstrasse) –toget there from unmetered parkingonsomeof thesidestreets Strasse 7) 100; Löracherstrasse10) else. Itis anancienttown thathasoftenelse. been andnothing arated fromFrance bytheRhine, About 27km westof Freiburg, Breisach issep- % Breisach WEST OFFREIBURG check weatherconditions. 21 toTalstation. Ring take tram4southtoGünterstal andthenbus ideal forwalks.Toget tothelift fromtown, marked trailsmake theSchauinsland area the BlackForest Numerouswell- highlands. very popularwaytoget fromFreiburg to by astrikinglookouttower,isaneasyand (www.bergwelt-schauinsland.de, inGerman) to 6pmJul-Sep) €7.50/4.50/6.50; €10.70/6.50/9.50, one-way bahn Year-round, arideonthe3.6km Schauinsland AROUND FREIBURG (€6.80). About 1.5kmsouthof Martinstor, around Mobile Car-hire agencies include 07667 /pop14,000 Max PlanckInstitut Max

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the street fromthetrainstation. street fromthetourist office. local winegrowers. the frontandcanprovide onvisiting details 4km westof Breisach –bothtowns are candi- Brisach The star-shaped French fortress-town of during WWII,whenitwas85%destroyed. inthecrossfirecaught of conflict,including lonelyplanet.com 500m southwest of the touristoffice. Rheinuferstrasse; .de inGerman; Colmar) are runby days €10/25; hired from fanfareand German in2006.Bikes canbe Breisach (nearHartheim) openedtoFrench advantage of thenewbridge 9kmsouthof perhapsbike taking ride acrosstheRhine, the manyoptionsincludeaninternational market and thetouristoffice. There’s a theGutgesellentorsome foodshops between swimming poolare nextdoor. right Acampinggroundandthe trainstation. bed hostel is1.1kmsouthandthenwestfrom bridge over thetinyMöhlinRiver, this164- n 12;dm1st/subsequentnight€20.30/17.10; Rheinuferstrasse Mar) Jan- 9am-12.30pm&1.30-5pmMon-Fri 1-4pm SunMay-Oct, platz 16; The theGutgesellentor andtheMarkplatz.tween of Constance. theCouncil in1415whilefleeing was caught This iswhere thescandalousPopeJohn XXIII gate builtin1402andrebuilt inthe1950s. bottom of which isthe church downtoMünsterbergstrasse, at the The Schänzletreppe (stairs) leadfromthe high altartriptych period,andamagnificent around thesame delicate FlamboyantGothicroodloft from by Martin Schongauer (atthewestend),a faded fresco cycle, cial centre ontheflatsbelow.Insidethere’s a the 15thcenturies,towers over thecommer- StStephansmünster dates forUnescoWorldHeritage status. Boat excursions along the Rhine (egtoBoat excursions along theRhine Breisach for is an excellentbase DJH hostel Briesach’s maincommercialarea isbe- On thehilltop,RomanesqueandGothic You’ll findanumberof restaurants and ) hasaccommodationoptionsposted out Situated on the Rhine justsouthof Situated a ontheRhine tourist office tourist (NewBreisach), designedbyVauban, is

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Gutgesellentor ( h 7733; Metzgergasse 1;1/3 7733; Metzgergasse % Apr-Sep) 924 010;www.bfs-info Minimal super- Minimal ; thedock is , acrossthe , atown across cycling (1491) Neuf ; maus, but still… OK, sohe’s gotsmallears andiscalledEuro- walking around–soundfamiliar? big mouse baroque. hasa Thisplaceeven to curvaceous from Gothicred brickand cute half-timber wherehead to‘Germany’, you’llfinditall, architecturalbrush uponGerman styles?Just it’s 2.05pmthismustbeMykonos! Keen to model of at2pmandnow Rome’sColosseum trip aroundEurope–ifweleftthe half-scale Dutch andsoon.Ashort strollislike aquick shopped –like they’re Swiss, typicallyItalian, ers, with‘villages’ designedtolook–andbe thrilling rides,includingninerollercoast- near thevillage of Rust.It bringstogether in peakseason) h adult/child4-14yr&senior€28.50/25.50; www.europapark.de; largest Germany’s Park Europa Freiburg–Breisach line). Endingen, Riegel andGottenheim (onthe may have tochange trains)includeSasbach, way aroundtheKaisterstuhl; stops (where you in Breisach. east of Breisach) toRiegel. Bikes canbehired Growers’ Trail)fromAchkarren (5kmnorth- ing trailssuch asthe15km the 55km cellar tours, bike winetastings, paths such as of blossoms inthespring. Breisachbetween andtheKaiserstuhl isariot Theareaheat duringthenight. of (clayandsilt)soilthatretainsthe fertile loess and be thewarmestandsunniestinGermany) their qualitytoanidealmicroclimate to (said is (Pinot Noir);anotherlocallypopularvariety especially foritsproductionof of finestwine-growing areas, Germany’s noted Its inelegantlyterraced slopesconstitute one begins afew kilometres northeastof Breisach. somewhat unexpectedly, isvolcanicinorigin, The that, Kaiserstuhl, mountain a560m-high Kaiserstuhl town of Colmar,22kmtothewest. Kaisterstuhl. French gotothedelightful Buses hourly) andtownsaroundtheperipheryof the platz, withFreiburg (€4.80,27minutes, atleast 500msoutheastof(Bahnhofstrasse), theMarkt- Grauburgunder Local trainslinkBreisach’s trainstation The The Breisach on hasdetails touristoffice 9am-6pm early Apr-early Nov & early Dec-early Jan,later Nov&earlyDec-early 9am-6pm earlyApr-early Kaiserstuhlbahn Kaisterstuhltour isabout35kmnorthof Freiburg (PinotGris).Thewinesowe theme park rail loop goes allthe railloopgoes circuit,andwalk- Winzerweg (

% Spätburgunder 01805-776 688; fruit orchards (Wine 445

BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG fixed tothepillars. Guidedtours (€4;inGer- ofgilded statues variousZähringer dukes af- AntonFeuchtmayer, the Joseph whocarved the museum€13; am Rhein (exit69).By publictransport,take am Rhein collection. 100chairsthe onlywaytosee fromVitra’s including the rococo library. Secularised in including therococolibrary. Secularised man) take you insidethemonastery complex, red-sandstone interior decorationof thetwin-towered top artistscollaborated onthesumptuous Thumb of Vorarlberg. Many of theperiod’s designed inthe1720sbymasterful Peter the handmade pensioners, proudlysportingtheircolourful, from youngboysandgirlstogrey-haired thevillagers,Sunday morningsyoucansee tions andcustoms.Onreligious holidaysand are committed deeply totheirancienttradi- the southernslopesof MtKandel (1243m), The folkof thebucolicvillage of St Peter, on % St Peter OFFREIBURG NORTHEAST Freiburg (€9.10,50minutes, hourly). aneasytripfrom trainstation, Weil amRhein walk (ittakes about15 minutes) from the hourly ineach pricecategory). Youcanalso to Freiburg (€10or€17,3563minutes, linked Bahnhof, Badischer bus 55fromBasel’s on atwo-hour Hadid andAlvaroSiza,canbevisitedZaha such asTadao Ando,Nicholas Grimshaw, furniture manufacturer Vitra–byarchitects Nearby buildings–onthecampusof theSwiss –wasdesignedby and curves Frank Gehry. strikingmodernbuilding–allangles seum’s exhibitions of contemporary design.Themu- France), hoststhought-provoking temporary Switzerland, andSt-Louis, fromBasel, Rhine Freiburg (just acrossthe inWeilamRhein €7.50/6; .design-museum.de; Charles-Eames-Strasse1;adult/concession The DesignMuseum Vitra A5 toHerbolzheim (exit58). Offenburg line,withthepark.Bycar,take the ontheFreiburg–the Ringsheimtrainstation, 446 To get there bycar,get offtheA5atWeil Shuttle buses (hourlyinthemorning)link Shuttle buses locallandmark is The mostoutstanding 07660 /pop2500 former Benedictine abbey former Benedictine Vitra DesignMuseum Vitra SOUTHERN BLACK FOREST •• Northeast ofFreiburg SOUTHERN BLACKFOREST••Northeast h 10am-6pm, to8pmWed) Trachten h architectural tour architectural church noon &2pm) (folkloriccostumes).

( h

( % open daily) . Taking thetouris 07621-702 3200;www , arococojewel , 50kmsouthof (admission €9,incl

, including 79) isproudof having over cuckoo athousand ing timepieces–oneplace(atHauptstrasse therusticbutannoy- try. Numerousshops sell the undisputed of capital cuckoo-clockcoun- three (hencethename),Triberg mountains is Wedged intoanarrowvalleyandframedby % Triberg dreamy views. mountain to Hinterzarten (5kmwestof Titisee) with from Waldkirch (26kmnortheastof Freiburg) -panoramastrasse.de) strasse begin atFreiburg’s busstation. three anhour);afew onthe7216run buses hour) andthenbus7216(24minutes, twoor to Kirchzarten (13minutes, twoorthree an from Freiburg toStPeter istotake thetrain information panelshowsroomavailability. abbey courtyard)andthechurch. Anearby the archway leadingtothe schoolholidaysNov-Easter) 2-5pmduring Mon-Fri, 10am-noonSatJul&Aug,9am-noon Easter-Oct, 2-5pm Mon-Fri 11; Klosterhof inGerman; -schwarzwald.de, run spiritualcentre. nary from1842to2006andisnowaCatholic- from the Bahnhof, whichfrom the Bahnhof, is atHauptstrasse’s point isthe Marktplatz, asteep 1.2kmuphill somefancyswitchbacks.does Thetown’sfocal River except aroundthewaterfall, where it which runsmore-or-less paralleltotheGutach town as Hauptstrasse and – Wallfahrtstrasse Triberg’s maindragisthe B500–knownin ORIENTATION &INFORMATION ofexcellent museum localculture. waterfall andan highest include Germany’s wholiveperhaps tothose there. look pretty much like village, thesame except Schonach intheother. Infact,bothplaces Cuckoos’, withTriberg inonecornerand tothe‘Warofcuckoo clock),givingrise the the in theroomare off. whenthelights that putsthecuckootosleep quartz modelsare equippedwithasensor few fromSwitzerland.Thelatest commercial clocks onhand,alllocallymadeexceptfora 1806, the complex served as a Catholic semi- asaCatholic 1806, thecomplexserved Attractions unconnected totimekeeping Two localstructures claimthetitleof St Peter isonthe By publictransport,thebestwaytoget The 07722 /pop5400 weltgröste Kuckucksuhr

(Black Forest Panorama Road;www.schwarzwald tourist office tourist , a50km-longscenicroute

( Schwarzwald Panorama- Schwarzwald % 910 224;www.st-peter (world’slargest lonelyplanet.com Klosterhof h isunder 9am-noon & (the 10am-6pm SunEaster-Oct) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Post office (Holidayland; www.dasferienland.de) theB33. the B500meets northeastern (lower)end,notfarfromwhere lonelyplanet.com Hornberg. Tribergclock shop ontheB33between and the otherendof town,integrated intoalarge Schonachbach 27;admission €1.50; cially savvy admission €1, house up thehillinSchonach, insideasnuglittle innards, canbefoundabout 1kmfurther Clock imaginative, mostlywoodenconstructions. isachildren’sMuseum, playgroundwith across thestreet fromtheSchwarzwald- of thesnowandice. no fee butyouenter atyourownriskbecause 25 to30December. Therest of thetimethere’s April toOctoberorearlyNovember, andfrom (depending ontheweather)fromMarch or the fee isworthit.Thegorge open isofficially to payexperiencenature butinthiscase It’sannoyingtohaveSchwarzwald-Museum. one of themisjustdownthehillfrom ( five accesspointstothelushlywooded the town’selectricstreet lamps.There are tion differential wasfirst topower harnessed generated here since1884,whentheeleva- bordered bymossyrocks.Energy hasbeen River, cascades theyplunge 163minseven own wildromanticism.Fed bythe Gutach tallest 1850s. ries forthewell-dressed local some outrageous hats,must-have accesso- mine, mechanical musicalinstrumentsand include aclockmaker’s shop, amockmineral 17yr/family €4.50/2.50/3/10; 4;adult/child5-13yr/child14- museum.de; Wallfahrtstrasse Schwarzwald-Museum region’s historyand customs,headforthe For awell-presented of overview theTriberg SIGHTS office Tourist Wahlfahrtstrasse 4; Wahlfahrtstrasse uphill from the river, insidetheSchwarzwald-Museum. uphill fromtheriver, % The Triberg area markets as itself Yosemite FallsYosemite theyain’tbutGermany’s Triberg’s underdog The 2724; adult/child8-16yr/family€2/0.70/4.50) , complete withoversized gear-driven

( % Wasserfälle Naturerlebnispark On Marktplatz next totheRathaus. next OnMarktplatz 4689; www.dold-urlaub.de; Untertalstrasse 28; 4689; www.dold-urlaub.de;Untertalstrasse h ( % rival 9am-noon &1-6pm) h SOUTHERN BLACK FOREST •• Northeast ofFreiburg SOUTHERNBLACKFOREST••Northeast 866 490; www.triberg.de, in German; inGerman; 866 490;www.triberg.de, (waterfalls) doexudetheir

( 10am-5pm) OntheB500,50m % , listed in

( % 962 20; www.uhren-park.de; 962 20;www.uhren-park.de; h

World’s Biggest Cuckoo World’s BiggestCuckoo (admission free) 4434; www.schwarzwald 10am-5pm)

h to visitors. 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, . Itscommer- Guinness, Fraülein . Exhibits , almost Ferienland of the the of , and gorge isat

way, inTriberg tocheck outthelocaltrout kitsch well-travelled –even ErnestHeming- haven of of styleinTriberg’s exuberant sea .de; Hauptstrasse64;s/d/trfrom€30/55/70; the Frankfurt–Freiburg line. Offenburg (€9.10,45minutes, hourly) ison (€19.10,1½hours)stanz tothenorthwest southeast toVillingen (25minutes) andKon- The Schwarzwaldbahn THERE&AWAYGETTING mains cost€16to€22. works hismagicwithcreativity andpanache; toopenin2007.Inthekitchen, thechefset in 2008.Anewpooland‘wellnessclinic’are willturn400 down thehillfromRathaus, parent Themainbuilding,just showerstalls. touches trans- such glass,andsexy asbevelled The 50roomshave classicdécor,including streams, wasenchanted here. byhisstay .de; Hauptstrasse51;s€74-84,d€109-129; bank’s fore-lobby. packedtightly in.There’s fromthe anelevator vibe andsmallish roomswithalltheamenities this14-roomhotel hasalate-’70s the Rathaus, from where it’sjust1200muphill. but youcantake anybustotheMarktplatz, 45-minute (3km)walkfromtheHauptbahnhof on thesoutheastern edge of town.It’sasteep n Rohrbacher Strasse35;dm1st/subsequentnight€17.90/14.70; DJH hostel SLEEPING &EATING Parkhotel Wehrle Parkhotel Hotel Central Central Hotel produce? The cuckooclock. of democracyandpeace,whatdid that they hadbrotherlylove, theyhad500years da Vinci andtheRenaissance. InSwitzerland Leonardobut theyproducedMichelangelo, terror, murderandbloodshed,had warfare, In Italyfor30yearsundertheBorgias they CLOCKS DEMOCRACY, PEACE & CUCKOO sometime inthe1700s. them, originated inGermany’s BlackForest cuckooclocks,asweknow1949 film.Infact, produced thisfamous quote intheclassic Welles apparently ad-libbedthescenethat ) Triberg’s 125-bed hostel isonascenicridge ( % Harry Lime(playedbyOrsonWelles) 4110; www.jugendherberge-triberg.de; 4110; www.jugendherberge-triberg.de; ( % ( % 4360; hotel-central-triberg@online 860 20;www.parkhotel-wehrle

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) A BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG modern bronze aresouth portals Romanesque andbothhave tiles, theotherthin andspiky.Thewest of disparate spires, oneoverlaid withcoloured block northof ithasastrikingpair Rietstrasse, mostly Gothic protected byrampartsandthree towers, isthe The focalpointof Villingen’s still Altstadt, SIGHTS office tourist Villingen h office Schwenningen tourist Post office about 5kmeastof Villingen’s Altstadt. on Bahnhofstrasse. Schwenningen’s centre is the regional are busstation justeastof thering and The Bahnhof continuation, Rietstrasse. andeast–westBickenstrasse andits Strasse, Obere anditscontinuation,Niedere Strasse mainstreets:pedestrianised north–south road, iscrisscrossed bytwowideand mostly Villingen’s surroundedbyaring Altstadt, ORIENTATION &INFORMATION making. gen hasacoupleof to devoted museums clock- definitely hasmore tooffer, Schwennin- though reconciled. conflicting allegiancesthatapparently can’tbe begins –waspartof theduchy of Württemberg, ningen –more orlesswhere theNeckarRiver to theGrandDuchy of whileSchwen- Baden, tobelong Villingenold. What’sworse, used is aclock-makingcentre lessthanacentury layout;Schwenningen town withamedieval have more been unlikely. Villingen isaspa short) were joinedin1972,theunioncouldn’t When Villingen andSchwenningen (VS for % Villingen-Schwenningen of Schonach, about onceanhour(€1.65). and theMarktplatz, andontothenearbytown theBahnhof between There’s abusservice AROUND GETTING hour). heads southtoVillingen viaStGeorgen (one and KinzigvalleystoOffenburg; bus7265 448 11am-5pm Sat) In the Franziskaner Museum. Museum. 11am-5pm Sat)IntheFranziskaner 35; 2,ieRietstrasse Rietgasse -vs.de, www.villingen-schwenningen.de, inGerman; Bus 7160travels theGutach norththrough From thetourist’spointof view,Villingen Villingen 07721,Schwenningen07720/pop82,000 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSat) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, SOUTHERN BLACK FOREST •• Northeast ofFreiburg SOUTHERN BLACKFOREST••Northeast (Bahnhofstrasse 6,Villingen) (Bahnhofstrasse Münster haut-relief ( % h

(Münsterplatz) 822 340;www.tourismus (in the Bahnhof; (intheBahnhof; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, doors showing . Situated a served by buses 8and8a. bybuses served aircraft rangingfrombiplanestoMiGs.It’s café. Enter 35. viaRietstrasse aretural events soldat thedesknextto culture thecenturies.Tickets through tocul- The collectionsilluminate thetown’sartand inaformerFranciscanmonastery. is housed minus of the 9am-5pm Nov-Feb) Spittelbronner Weg78,Schwenningen; the Schwenningen’s Bahnhof. old clockfactoryfourblocksnorthwestof h .de; Bürkstrasse39,Schwenningen;adult/concession€3/2; dustry Museum; well-presented outskirts, 30minutes onfootfromthecentre. burial chamber inVillingen’s southwestern Tue-Sat, 11am-5pmSun&holidays) ( & holidays) adult/concession €3/2; include the roque. Old-style buildingsaround dramatic Biblicalscenes.Inside,thenave isba- waldbahn railway line from Konstanz and waldbahn railwaylinefrom Konstanz Villingen’s ison thescenicSchwarz- Bahnhof THERE &AROUND GETTING supplies. also a 2pm or6pmSat) quality modernfurnishings. renovated, has16spaciousroomswithhigh- friendly andcentralVillingen hotel, recently Bärengasse 2,Villingen;s/dfrom€52/80; Strasse. edge of town.Take bus3or4toTriberger n Strasse36;dm 1st/subsequentnight€18.30/15.10; Georgener Strasse. sive eateries alongNiedere andObere Strasse There are foodshopsandinexpen- several SLEEPING &EATING Baden-Württemberg’s premier bike trails. % Also run by the museum is Also runbythemuseum Vitala Bären Hotel DJH hostel Villingen-Schwenningen isthesouthernter- At theeastern edge of Schwenningen, Schwenningen’s maindrawistheextremely The ) 10am-noon &2-6pmTue-Sun) 822 351; Rietgasse 2;adult/concession€3/2; 822 351;Rietgasse This 128-bed hostel isatthenorthwestern Internationales Luftfahrt-Museum Internationales Plus supermarket Franziskaner Museum Franziskaner

(Obere Strasse11; , justinsidetheRiettor(acitygate), isanorganic grocery,andthere’s Altes Rathaus Altes ( Neckartal-Radweg Neckartal-Radweg % % , attheairfield,displays50old ( % Uhrenindustriemuseum 380 44;www.uhrenindustriemuseum 541 49; www.jugendherberge.de; St- 541 49;www.jugendherberge.de; h 206 9690;www.hotel-baeren.biz; 1-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-5pmSun h (Obere Strasse16)

(oldtownhall). 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am- 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, ( , an

% , situated inan h lonelyplanet.com (see (see p392 ), oneof 822 351; Rietgasse 2; 822 351;Rietgasse Magdalenenberg in situ 9am-7pm Mar-Oct, 9am-7pm Mar-Oct, pn Münsterplatz for picnic

( %

h (Clock In- Celtic Celtic ) 663 02; This 1-5pm 1-5pm

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com in Donaueschingen. change forStuttgart.Toget toFreiburg change linetoRottweil,where the secondary youcan Offenburg. Schwenningen’s ison Bahnhof Donaueschingen toTriberg (25minutes) and lonelyplanet.com ery waterfront promenade, the shops, cafés andrestaurants liningitsflow- ful andhugely popular resort withsouvenir tip onwhich thetownsits, Titisee isacheer- Named fortheglaciallake onthenorthern % Titisee-Neustadt good choice. ‘where bea thesundon’tshine’, thismight you’ve recently toldtogo somewhere been shadetom isindeep untilmid-morning–if herefancy. Thecanyonissodeep thatthebot- abouttryinganything thoughts having second asifhe’s –looksabithesitant, now –astatue thereby leapingacrosstheabyss. Thestag pursued byhunters tohave issaid saved itself rowest pointof being thevalley,amale deer in thelocaldialect). rest stopcalled isa far fromadeath-defyinghairpincurve, west of Titisee. Somewhere inthemiddle,not the valleycontinueseasttoHinterzarten, 5km melreich western gatewaylental’s isthevillage of Freiburg toTitisee. gorge allthewayfrom isonfoot–atrailgoes eschingen. The bestwaytoexperiencethe tunnels onitswayfromFreiburg toDonau- nine through which passes the Höllentalbahn, above) B31andthetracksof theserpentine east of Freiburg andstretches along(and (Hell’slental Valley). Itbeginsabout15km beneath themalongthewildlyromanticHöl- with tree-covered hillsides,dwarfeverything Jagged, near-vertical rockfaces,alternating Höllental OFFREIBURG SOUTHEAST 5,Villingen) 687; Rietgasse link Villingen withSchwenningen. the B33toTriberg andtheB27toRottweil. by Stuttgart–Singen A81andisalsocrossed trips northtoTriberg viaStGeorgen. Bikes canbehired from Frequent (forexamplelines1and1S) buses Villingen-Schwenningen isjustwestof the At the Fans of wordplaywillnote thattheHöl- From Villingen, bus7265makes regular 07651 /pop12,000 (Kingdomof Heaven), fromwhere Hirschsprung SOUTHERNBLACKFOREST••SoutheastofFreiburg Teufelsschwänzli , nearthetouristoffice. (Stag’s Leap), thenar- Leap), (Stag’s Hermann Fleig (‘devil’s tail’ tail’ (‘devil’s Seestrasse ( %

Him- 24 . badstrasse & Seestrasse; badstrasse &Seestrasse; supermarket and bread loaves the sizeof cartires, or cialities includingmeats,cheeses, schnapps southwest of thetrainstation. the lake’s western tip,2kmsouthwestof the (stops at Neustadt). toUlm stops atTitisee) and theDonautalbahn toFeldbergseenbahn andSchluchsee (hourly; theDrei-stops atbothTitisee andNeustadt), Freiburg andDonaueschingen (twiceanhour; routes to include theHöllentalbahn Rail THERE&AROUND GETTING spruce. The 18roomshave furniture madeof local and athree-minute walkfromthebeach. hotel that’s just250mfromthetrainstation s/d €45/72,lowseason€39/64) take bus7300,orit’s30minutes onfoot. tourist office. Toget there fromthetrainstation n ishof.de; 27;dm1st/subsequentnight€18.30/15.10; Bruderhalde from. choose of hotels, anditssurroundshave Titisee-Neustadt tonnes SLEEPING &EATING Nov-Apr) Fri 9am-noon&1.30-5pmMon- Sat, Sun&holidaysMay-Oct, .de; Strandbadstrasse4; literally direction. –inevery Angels) paths andindeed, androutes head– forcyclists,nottheHell’s(that’s aparadise the upperbody. istoexercise solepurpose ski poles,whose the snow.Inotherwords,it’swalkingwith like cross-country skiingwithouttheskisor Nordic walking outlook tower. Titisee fromtheeastandistoppedbyan include the1192m lake isaneasy6kmtrek. Scenicdestinations the crowds.Walkingallwayaround boat orpedalboat. preciated fromtherelative quietof arowing is reasonably scenicandisperhapsbestap- The lake (2kmlongand750mwide) itself DJH hostel DJH hostel asa The townbillsitself The Titisee area isapopularcentre for Self-caterers shouldtry Self-caterers Sonneneck Hotel The Heading onfootisonewaytoescape off ) The fabulous Titisee-Veltishof hostel isat tourist office tourist isintheKurhaus building,500m pensions

(Jägerstrasse) ( % , which –fortheuninitiated –is 238; www.jugendherberge-titisee-velt

h ( % andcampinggroundsto

h ( Hochfirst % daily) 8246; fax88174;Parkstrasse 2; . 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, Amodest,family-run 980 40;www.titisee-neustadt forlocalfoodspe- , which overlooks Gutscher Bikerparadies

(cnr Strand- Edeka Edeka 449

BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG flora andfauna. der Natur many’s highest train station (967m),where trainstation many’s highest outdoor activities. be hired from hour. every withNeustadt tisee three onSundayandholidays). MondaytoSaturday, minutes; atleastseven withFeldberg-Bärental trainstation see (15 or fourtimesaday).Bus7300linkstheTiti- toSchluchsee (three bus7257goes stations, the Feldberg. The most strenuous route takes youtothe topof The Feldberg area isgreat for ACTIVITIES The where there are wonderfulpanoramicviews. to the lar Almost alltheskiliftsare here, asisthepopu- thatcoverspreserve much of themountain. Ort southeast of Altglashütten. a goodlake forswimmingorrowing,is1km resort withacute waterfall. the Haslach Valley is ofgle againstthehillsides.East Bärental in traditional BlackForest snug- farmhouses Aug) 10am-noon Satinthewarmermonths,SunJul& 1; Kirchgasse in German; office tourist trative centre. playshosttothe ItsRathaus time glass-blowing centre, istheadminis- of five villages, of which is stunning. days theviewsouthwardtowardsAlps like amonk’stonsured skull,butonclear not particularlyattractive, lookingvery much area. istreeless Theactualmountaintop and that it’stheregion’s premier downhillskiing intheBlackForest then, tain –nosurprise, At 1493mthe Feldberg moun- isthehighest % Feldberg cycling options. Neustadt) 450 About 2kmnorthis Feldberg isalsothenamegiven toacluster Bikes (andinwinter, skiequipment)can In itslocalversion, bus7257connectsTi- andTitisee train From boththeNeustadt About 9kmwestof Altglashütten is , right intheheartof, right the42-sq-kmnature 07655 /pop1800 Feldbergbahn chairlift Feldbergbahn ,

which has awealthof informationabout tourist office tourist SOUTHERN BLACK FOREST •• Southeast Of Freiburg SOUTHERN BLACKFOREST••SoutheastOf Bismarckdenkmal , which onlocal canalsosupplydetails , where you’llfindexhibitsonlocal

( % Ski-Hirt

( 8019; www.feldberg-gipfeltreffen.de, % Westweg h 07676-933 666) Falkau (Bismarckmonument),

( 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, also 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, %

(one-way/return €5.40/6.90) (one-way/return Bärental Altglashütten 922 80;Titiseestrasse 26, trail,which links , afamily-friendly Windgfällweiher isinthe , site of Ger- hiking , aone- Feldberg- . The Haus

, balconies andarusticrestaurant. 11 modernroomswithchalet-style wooden thismodestplacehas ing thetouristoffice, Eight skischoolsEight offer avarietyof packages. Bärental andAltglashütten are stopsonthe THERE&AWAYGETTING 5,Altglashütten;s/dfrom€30/58) Schwarzenbachweg (15 minutes, hourly). from theBärental toHebelhof trainstation 1234m inFeldberg-Ort, bybus7300 isserved The 267-bed Hebelhof Hostel, perched at Passhöhe 14;dm1st/subsequentnight€19.70/16.50; DJH hostel SLEEPING Bärentaler Strasse1,Altglashütten) Schubnell ‘Skiverleih’ –onereliable optionis If youwanttohire skis,lookforsignsreading latest snow conditions,ring cross-country trailsare alsoavailable. Forthe ticket.accessible withthesame Four groomed €23/12, from1pm€16/8) hensandchamois.tain wildflowers oranimalspeciessuch asmoun- youmayvery wellcomeacrossrare serve, especially swimming, windsurfing, sailing and especially swimming,windsurfing, sailing and acentre foroutdoor activitiesof allkinds, also apopularsummer holiday-resort area commercialthan itsbigger neighbour, it’s Less the nearbylake, isabout 10kmsouth of Titisee. The townof Schluchsee (930m),namedafter % Schluchsee from Bärental. To get toAltglashütten, headdowntheB500 Donaueschingen) toTitisee, thentheB317. Gästekarte). with theskilifts(free withaliftticket or the Feldberg communitiesandTitisee and berg (lookforred-on-yellow signs),linkall runbyLiftverbund shuttlebuses, Feld-season Feldberg-Ort. 7300 makes direct tripsatleasthourlyto inBärental, Fromthetrainstation bus see). (ontheSchluch- links Titisee withSeebrugg Dreiseenbahn (namedforthree lakes), which much of theFeldberg ispartof anature pre- thearea. crosses Pforzheim Since withBasel, Sonneck Hotel The If you’re driving,take theB31(Freiburg– From late Decemberuntiltheendof the 07656 /pop2600 Feldberg ski area Feldberg ski

( % ( Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % 560; www.skiverleih-feldberg.de, in German; inGerman; 560; www.skiverleih-feldberg.de, 07676-221; www.jugendherberge.de;

( % hasanetworkof 28lifts,all 211; www.sonneck-feldberg.de;

(adult/child under15yrperday . % lonelyplanet.com 07676-1214. Skiverleih Skiverleih Fac- n ) tober). You can get on and off as you please; tober). Youcanget asyouplease; onandoff from 10amor11amto5pmMay tolate Oc- andinSchluchsee town(hourly in Seebrugg with stopsinAha,atthedam(Staumauer), aroundtheSchluchsee, offers aboatservice Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com bad offer somewonderfulhiking. of theFeldberg, theforests aroundSchluchsee scuba diving.Thankstoitslocationatthefoot lonelyplanet.com 3am) dispenses good beer andcheer. goodbeer 3am) dispenses fish. The rustic Rumpelfass bar(open8pmto andBlackForestinclude venison (inseason) Thursday); specialities €12 to€20.50;closed solidregional farerestaurant (mains serves good taste butthe34roomsare spacious.The €40/72) are ontheterrace overlooking the lake. Austrian andvegetarian dishes;thebestseats but abitoutof local, date. Therestaurant serves Next tothechurch. The27roomshere are cosy 7;sfrom€35,d€54-104;mains€9.60-22.50; Kirchplatz the Schluchsee trainstation. minute walk westalongthelakefront from the lake, this117-bed hostel isabouta10- €18.30/15.10; -wolfsgrund.de; ImWolfgrund 28;dm1st/subsequentnight DJH hostel SLEEPING &EATING office Tourist ATMs circumference is18.5km). accessible onlybybike oronfoot(thelake’s eastern tip.Thewestern shore of thelake is isatthelake’sof south- thelake; Seebrugg community of Ahacapsthe northwestern end and theSchluchsee’s hillsidetowncentre. The the lake’s eastern shore thelakefront between The railwaytracksandtheB500runalong ORIENTATION &INFORMATION €6 (lessforsinglestops). the wholeroundtriptakes onehourandcosts beach.sandy pool complexwithlotsof grassandanarrow h availability detailsare postedoutfront. androom Maps totheRathaus. the church,next Situated150muphillfrom Sun Aug&holidayweekends) also10am-noonSatJul,& 9am-6pm Fri, FischbacherGastes, Strasse7; Bathing optionsinclude Bathing Hotel Sternen Sternen Hotel Schiff Hotel T Toth 9am-7pm lateMay–mid-Sep)

( At Kirchplatz andonnearby Fischbacherstrass. AtKirchplatz % Thehallwallpaperisacrimeagainst 7732; Strandbadstrasse; adult/student €3.80/2.20; 7732; Strandbadstrasse;adult/student€3.80/2.20;

( % ( n % ( ( 9230; www.seerundfahrten.de, inGerman) 9230; www.seerundfahrten.de, % % ) ( 329; www.jugendherberge-schluchsee Onapeninsulajuttinginto % SOUTHERNBLACKFOREST••SoutheastofFreiburg 7732; www.schluchsee.de;Hausdes 975 70; www.hotel-schiff-schluchsee.de; 975 70;www.hotel-schiff-schluchsee.de; 251; Dresselbacher Strasse1;s/dfrom h , a seaside swimming- , aseaside 8am-6pm Mon-Thu, Aqua Fun Strand- pn

) the Dom. arch attheentrancetotowncentre and ture) in1995. competition, established cupola, Crowned byanenormous greenish-copper SIGHTS 1-3; AmKurgarten Haus desGastes, jacent formermonastery complex. River, isdominated bytheDomand thead- St Blasien’ssmallcentre, bytheAlb bisected ORIENTATION &INFORMATION town’s annual lots of northwest of StBlasien,hasthree skilifts. to take thewaters. waters continue toattractvisitors whocome the late 19thcenturyandtodayitsradon-laced apopularsparesortBlasien hasbeen since remote, healthylittletown–yeah,right! possibly get intotoomuch troubleinsuch a parents school feel thathigh kidscouldn’t nasiums St Blasien school bytheJesuits in1933,andtoday The monastery wasturnedintoaboarding landmark,themagnificentDom. outstanding Martin whobuiltthetown’smost Gerbert, in the18thcenturyunderprince-abbot tury. Thisaugustinstitutionreached itszenith edictine monastery, foundedinthe9thcen- and culturalheavyweight thankstoitsBen- of Schluchsee apolitical town,haslongbeen ment inalush river valleyabout 8kmsouth settle- St Blasien,abucolic butsubstantial % St Blasien cycling map(€3.10). year-round. agood sells Thetouristoffice (three orfourtimesaday). andTitisee trainstations with theNeustadt berg andTitisee. Bus7257linksSchluchsee toFeld- traingoes The hourlyDreiseenbahn THERE&AROUND GETTING across thesquare fromthechurch. h Mon-Fri, also10am-noon SatMay-Sep) Mon-Fri, The St Blasien’spublicspacesare adornedwith There’s asupermarket, Thanks toitshealthy,fogless climate, St Hotel hires Schiff out 8am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pmSat) 8am-12.30pm &2.30-6.30pmMon-Fri, 07672 /pop4100 tourist office tourist modern woodsculptures (private schools), perhaps because Dom StBlasien ranksasoneof top Germany’s Holzskulpturen Menzenschwand ( %

( 414 30;www.st-blasien.de; h Isele Markt bicycles h 8am-6.30pm May-Sep, 8am-6.30pm May-Sep, is between the isbetween , alegacyof the 10am-noon &3-5pm (woodsculp-

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, BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG made Schmidt snow-clearingequipment. culture, andincludesscalemodelsof locally- charmingly eclecticlookatlocalhistoryand arch andthenanother200m. If you need a taxi, ring ataxi, If youneed Blasien and Menzenschwand (almosthourly). minutes, St hourly).Bus7321shuttles between on theSchluchsee, bybus7319(20 Seebrugg, St Blasienislinked in to thetrainstation THERE &AROUND GETTING Sat) greataffords Domviews. terrace(mains €9.50to€25.50);thedelightful cellent cuisinemadewithall-fresh ingredients ex- The cosy,wood-panelledrestaurant serves rooms withwicker andbare woodfurnishings. spacious side place–builtin1826haseight n 2;s/d€65/95; ImSüssenWinkel inGerman; meisterhaus.de, all-wood farmhouse. ensconced inagorgeous BlackForest–style, 1st/subsequent night€18.30/15.10; dm 10,Menzenschwand; -menzenschwand.de; Vorderdorfstrasse accommodation options. haveschwand and Albtal, awidevarietyof towns,Menzen-St Blasienanditsaffiliated SLEEPING &EATING 5pm Tue-Sun) of theDomare fromacrosstheriver. during school holidayperiods.Thebestviews rooms are held at10.15amonTuesday,except of(in German) theKloster’s historicbaroque measuring 105mby195m.Free guidedtours school, is of equallygenerous proportions, now hometothetown’sfamousboarding free concertsof Western classicalmusic. windows. InJulyandAugust,theDomhosts cupola’s interior features, includingits18 The patterns inthemarblefloormirror lengthasthecupola’sdiameter.is thesame fake marble(infactexpertlypainted stucco), choir, adornedwithsomevery convincing the 20Corinthiancolumns).Therectangular asitiswide(asmeasuredas high justabove interior is fit neatlyunderthecupola,whose ness. Agiantsphere 36mindiameter would of dazzlingsymmetry,harmony andwhite- 8.30am-5.30pm Oct-Apr) 452 Museum StBlasien Museum Lidl supermarket Klostermeisterhaus Hotel DJH hostel The adjacentformer From the tourist office, go through the Fromthetouristoffice, gothrough ) Smack inthecentre of town,thisriver- LAKE CONSTANCE , above takes thetouristoffice, a ( %

hasalight-flooded rotunda (Friedhofstrasse; (Friedhofstrasse; 07675-326; www.jugendherberge (adult/student €1.60/0.50;

% Kloster n 907 090. ( % A 104-bed hostel ) h 848; www.kloster (monastery), 8am-8pm Mon- h 2.30- tion andmaps. Neustadt, take bus7258(40minutes,Neustadt, hourly Nov-Apr) except Wedafternoon 9am-noon&2-5pmMon-Fri 10am-noonSatMay-Oct, Fri, Schlossstrasse1; .de, inGerman; town, the Glen) toyourtour. tic, 2.5km-long you have theenergy, youcanaddtheroman- Schattenmühle its splendour,youcantake a13kmhike from on theSwissfrontier. nearWaldshut, flowsintotheRhine Wutach species of andlizards. The butterflies, beetles orchids, aswellrare birdsandcountless ing ahuge varietyof wildflowers, including of theFeldberg, liesafertile harbour- habitat almostatthesummit translation), which rises alongthe Below, almostvertically. rocksrise craggy whose ofCanyon theBlackForest’, isalovely ravine Gorge,Wutach sometimesbilledasthe‘Grand Wutachschlucht 8, Menzenschwand) from tria andthe remaining northernandwestern to Switzerland, theeastern 28km toAus- 273km,of which thesouthern 72kmbelong water sports. tion, culturalpursuits, hiking, cycling and offerscourse of theRhine achoice of relaxa- thisgiantbulge inthesinewy ‘Swabian Sea’, ing abitlandlocked. Sometimescalledthe Swiss peaks,istheperfect tonicifyou’re feel- shore –byarowof breathtaking snow-capped framed–ifyou’reensee), onthe German ofThe watery expanses (Bod- Constance Lake LAKE CONSTANCE times aday). Schattenmühle onlyafew andWutachmühle when school butmaystopat isinsession hourortwoMondaytoFriday (runs every Wutachmühle, take bus7344from Bonndorf and holidays).Toget toSchattenmühle or twohoursMonday toSaturday,every Sunday St Blasienisabout 4kmwestof theB500. Lake Constance hasacircumference Constance Lake of some To get in toBonndorffromthetrainstation In Bonndorf,15kmeastof Schluchsee To appreciate the Wutachschlucht inall Bikes (andskiequipmenttoo)canberented Sport Gfrörer Sport tourist office tourist Book accommodation online atBook lonelyplanet.com to . Lotenbach-Klamm Wutachmühle (

Wutach % ( 07675-923 810; Hinterdorfstrasse 07675-923 810;Hinterdorfstrasse

% hashikinginforma- h (‘angryriver’ inloose 07703-7607; www.bonndorf 9am-noon &2-6pmMon- (orviceversa). If lonelyplanet.com (Lotenbach ing ontotheshoreline. Visibilityisespecially get quite dangerous, withhuge waves crash- can Constance During stormyweather,Lake toBregenzfrom Konstanz (Austria)is46km. Thedistance point andisupto250mdeep. Itmeasuresin Bavaria). 14kmatitswidest (includingalittlestrip 173km toGermany lonelyplanet.com plus lake €24, all 7 zones plus lake €27, half-price forchildren €27,half-price €24, all7zonespluslake plus lake tiny type. in ules foralltrain, busandferry services publishes afree Constance–area publictransport providers, inGerman) .euregiokarte.com, only landconnections. provide buses an exception),insomecases the haveConstance (Meersburg atrain station is mostofing. Although thetownsonLake organised andisagood alternative todriv- good varietyof ferry options. Meersburg and Friedrichshafen alsohave a zerland, isbyferry. isthemainhub; Konstanz or tocrossthelake foraquickpeakatSwit- to Ryanair fliesfromLondonStansted andDublin &Around There Getting public transporttheother. making itpossibletocycleonewayandtake bikes canbetaken onbothferries andtrains, Ingeneral,shops andsometouristoffices. andisavailablehiking mapisuseful, inbook- 1:50,000 The route iswellsignposted butRegioCart’s the shoreline vineyardsandbeaches. between man) Bodensee-Radweg An international bike track,the268km Cycling andtheroadsarenight choked. constantly when itmaybehardtofindaroomforthe gets extremely crowdedinJulyandAugust, ters are often ormistyatbest.Thearea foggy, timetocome. Win- isalsoapleasant harvest ming (around20°to23°C).Theautumnwine but atleastthelake forswim- iswarmenough fruit trees are flowering.Summers are humid that’swhenthe because Constance visit Lake blowing northwardfromtheAlps. common inMarch, AprilandOctober –is good whentheFöhn–awarmdrywindthat’s The The publictransportsystem iswell- By farthemostenjoyablewaytoget around, April andMay are amongthebesttimesto Friedrichshafen , circumnavigates tracing Constance, Lake Euregio BodenseeTageskarte Euregio Rund umdenBodensee LAKECONSTANCE ••Cycling

(www.fly-away.de) (www.bodensee-radweg.com, inGer- (www.bodensee-radweg.com, Fahrplan , which groupsallLake Euregio Bodensee Euregio bookwithsched- .

(1 landzone cycling- (www

takes 15minutes. superb views (especiallyfrom thetopdeck), Thecrossing, whichand Konstanz). affords end (toandfrom thecentres of Meersburg trians aferry rideplusbustransportoneither Ticket Maxi to5.30amor6am. Thenew midnight hour from and every from 9pmtomidnight 30minutesfrom 5.30amor6amto9pm,every properly). Thefrequency 15minutes isevery itcan’t dock inwhichespecially high, case a day(exceptwhenthelake’s water is level €7.20/1.50/2) driver/bicycle/pedestrian ( The roll-onroll-off CAR FERRIES (hourly from5amor6amto8pm9pm). make theKonstanz–Friedrichshafen crossing thattakes 50minutes to service new passenger maran.de; adult/child6-14yr&dogs€8.50/4.30) Island andÜberlingen. andMeersburgboth Konstanz withMainau withReichenaulink Konstanz Island,and single day. placesina making itpossibletovisitseveral ber, andthree fromearlyApriltolate May, toearlyOcto- early JulyandSeptember five fromlateto earlySeptember, May to There are dailyrunsfromearlyJuly seven hours); children age sixto15payhalfprice. (€11.20, three hours) andBregenz (€12,3½ Friedrichshafen (€8.80,2¾hours), Lindau ports such asMeersburg (€4.20,30minutes), man, thelatter with Austrian–linksKonstanz inGerman) .bodenseeschifffahrt.at 364 0389;www.bsb-online.com,inGerman) services. certain Holders of get a50%discounton railpasses coastline, andlinktownsonopposite shores. Constance from towntoalongtheLake ferries, runsavarietyof ferry linesthathop ofa total ferries 31passenger andthree car SwissandAustriancompanieswith German, The PASSENGER FERRIES andferryoffices, trainstations docks. Liechtenstein.and even Itissoldattourist including areas inAustria,Switzerland deep Constance, transportonandaroundLake sea % 6-15yr) Der Katamaran Other ferry runs,mostlyoperated byBSB, line,runby The mostuseful 07531-8030; www.sw.konstanz.de;carupto4mincl Weisse Flotte gets youall-dayaccesstoalllandand

(one-way/return €3.60/7.20) (one-way/return

( ( % % Konstanz–Meersburg carferry Konstanz–Meersburg 281 389) 07541-971 0900;www.der-kata –theformerisGer- , agroupingof six runs24hours and BSB gets pedes- is a sleek isasleek (

% OBB

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453 Mini- BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG good selection. English Bookshop Clixworx Information appeared elsewhere inEurope. with uniformedguardsthathave almostdis- complete withthekindof bordercrossings blocks farthersouthistheSwiss frontier, edge afew of isBodanstrasse; theAltstadt from theharbour. Delineating thesouthern eastern edge of acrossthetracks theAltstadt adjacent toeach atthe otheronBahnhofplatz, –littlemoretrain station) thanashed–are tion) andtheuglySchweizer (Swiss Bahnhof trainsta- style Deutscher (German Bahnhof stretches southward.Theimposingimperial- the left(south)bankof which theAltstadt from bytheRhine, isbisected Konstanz Orientation region.Constance Lake ratherstaid unique intheotherwise pable inthelively pubandrestaurant scene, founded in1966.Thestudentpresence ispal- hares) –isastudentatthelocaluniversity, ants –affectionately knownas prices.AboutGerman inhabit- oneinseven hordes of Swissshoppers drawnby‘bargain’ itsshopsattract with littleindustry,though Church. Catholic others) andhealingthe‘Great Schism’ inthe 1418, choosing asinglepope(replacing three of convened Constance here from1414to reached itshistoricalapexwhentheCouncil City andgrew rich fromtrade. Thetown Middle Ages, when itwasaFree Imperial played aleadingroleinthearea duringthe to bebombedbytheAllies. toneutralSwitzerland WWII itwastooclose oft-ravagedamong Germany’s cities.During suffered fire orwardamage, makingitararity Itspicturesque hasnever Bodensee. Altstadt der, istheculturalandeconomiccentre of the ontheSwissbor- right (Constance), Konstanz % KONSTANZ from adock400mnorthwestof theoldtown. Mainaustrasse. InMeersburg, carferries leave is about 4kmnortheastof thecitycentre along 454 Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat)Internetaccess. Mon-Fri, Today, Konstanz isaliberaluniversityToday, Konstanz town bylocalbus1, served The dockinKonstanz, bytheRomansand wassettled Konstanz 07531 /pop81,000 LAKE CONSTANCE ••Konstanz (Bodanstrasse 21;per15min €1; ( % 150 63;Münzgasse 10)Stocksa h Seehas 10am-7pm (sea (sea Internet access. Marktstätte 30 Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) A self- or full-service laundry. 10am-4pmSat)Aself-orfull-service Mon-Fri, hotel telephone. boardandfree (€1), outsidethere’s ahotelreservation brochure stations. Insideyoucanpickupawalking-tour ofthetrain Justnorth Nov-Mar) 12.30pm &2-6pmMon-Fri 9am- 9am-4pm Sat&10am-1pmSunholidaysApr-Oct, 13; ismus; Bahnhofplatz Tourist office Tourist Tel Center Bahnhof Schweizer Reisebank plied her tradeinthedays of theCouncil of tohaveous woman, aprostitute whoissaid Imperia –stands on aperpetually turning pedestal bäude –welcoming incomingferry passengers Today it’saconference andconcert hall. where PopeMartin Vwas elected in 1417. before makingitsmarkinhistoryastheplace asagranaryandwarehouse in 1388,served mered Marktstätte. under thetraintracksateastern endof It’s linked byapassageway totheAltstadt warehouses, somehousingrestaurants. ferrywith gardens,statues, docksandold thetraintracksandlake,tween islined delightful Konstanz’ WATERFRONT Sights Waschsalon undMehr counterchangescurrency atgoodrates. days) Theticket 7pm Mon-Sat,8.50am-12.10pm&1.40-6pmSunholi- Swiss francs. 8am-3pmSat)Currency exchange,including 6pm Mon-Fri, At theendof thepierfacingKonzilge- Just pastthepassageway, thewhite dor- (adult/child €119/59) €39/19) (adult/child 6-15yr€69/35,notinclferries The three-day BODENSEE ERLEBNISKARTE also seven-day andmuseums.tourist attractions There are and getsyoufree entrytoaround170 (including itsAustrian andSwissshores) Constancecableways onandaroundLake travel onalmostallboatsandmountain allowsfreefrom earlyApriltoOctober, available atarea touristandferry offices Konzilgebäude , a 9m-high sculpture, a9m-high of avery voluptu- (perhr€4.20) (Hauptbahnhof; (Hauptbahnhof; ( h ( % 9am-10pm Mon-Sat,noon-10pmSun) 133 030;www.konstanz.de/tour (adult/child €89/45) Bodensee Erlebniskarte (Swiss trainstation; h versions. (Hofhalde3; (CouncilBuilding),built Bahnhofplatz 6 Bahnhofplatz 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, seafront promenade h 8am-12.30pm &1.30- lonelyplanet.com h ( and14-day h 10am-7pm h 9am-10pm); 6.50am- , be- ,

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Ferdinand He vonZeppelin. wasbornin1838 ment by HonorédeBalzac. inanovel shewasimmortalised Constance; lonelyplanet.com this maze of alleyways (such asNiederburg- atmospherealmost medieval stillpermeates craftspeople andsmallmerchants. An housed quarter. Thesite of itlater a Romansettlement, the Niederburg oldest isKonstanz’ Rhine, Stretching northfromtheMünster tothe NIEDERBURG Sun &churchholidays) (adult/child €2/1; inspired byChrist’stombinJerusalem. 13th-century in onecorner,the chapel, adoorleadstotheGothiccloister and, per medallions.Fromthecrypt’spolychrome down tothe totheleftof whichstaircase, adoorleads isavividlydecorated spiral northern transept, and islikely tobeunderrepair forever. since1961 withoutscaffolding has notbeen nearby Swiss town of Rorschach, theMünster 19th century.Made of soft fromthe sandstone era. Theneo-Gothic spires were addedinthe dates altar fromthebaroque entrance; thehigh on anelaborate stonebalconyabove thewest theorgan, brought perchedThe Renaissance andthechoir oakmainportal stalls. carved side aisleswere added,aswasthemasterfully the 12thand15thcenturies,Gothicvaulted of today’sstructure isRomanesque. Between butthecorecrypt, builtin1000,isCarolingian, Münster the pointstands highest At theAltstadt’s MÜNSTER Casino of thebridge. Furthereast,atNo21,isthe a rowof handsome has Ontheopposite bank,Seestrasse Rhine. withnewerquartersthe Altstadt acrossthe banishment fromthetheatre. sports acomicalscenedepictingtheFool’s is the has a the through on the Just northof the theInsel, You canclimbtherecently restored The Practically acrossthestreet fromtheInsel A few steps fromhere isthe , honouringtheairship inventor Count children’s playground children’s . Stadttheater Insel Schnegg

( h , atinyislandshort strollnorth 9am-6pm Mon-Sat,10am-6pmSun) Stadtgarten h crypt Heiliges Grab (literally ‘snail’;1438),inthe LAKECONSTANCE ••Konstanz 10am-5pm Mon-Sat,noonor12.30-5pm . , adornedwithgildedcop-

(Inselgasse 2) Mauritius Rotunda Mauritius Art Nouveau villas Nouveau Art park. The Stadtgarten park.TheStadtgarten . (HolySepulchre), Rheinbrücke , whose façade , whose Zeppelin Monu- Zeppelin , withits justeast . The tower links

girls’ school in1775. predecessorswhose foundedthecity’sfirst It isstillinthehandsof Dominican nuns, 1257, istheonlyconvent leftinKonstanz. regional artandhistory. €3.50/2.60/3.10) .campingplatz-konstanz.de; Fohrenbühlweg 45;adult/car/tent along Bodanstrasse. stations There are so-so hotels westof several thetrain Sleeping permanent exhibitionspace. decorating theaquariums.Greenpeace hasa and there’s lotsof ‘authentic’humandetritus means thatthefishare mostlygrey andsilver of theunderwater life which of the Rhine, your walletbutpresents arealistic portrait ing onthekitsch aquarium. Ecologicallyeducationalbutverg- 10am-6pmSat&SunNov-Apr) Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Jun&mid-Sep–Oct, 10am-6pmMay, mid-Sep, Hafenstrasse 9;adult/child€11.75/8.50; the StoneAge theMiddleAges. through brücke, hasthree floors of exhibitsthatgofrom former monastery justnorthof theRhein- of month; man; Benediktinerplatz5;adult/concession€3/2,free 1stSat State Museum; & holidays) 2pmWed; & after tenstrasse 3-5;adult/student€3/1.50,free 1stSunofthemonth Rosgar- inGerman; 246; www.rosgartenmuseum-konstanz.de now occupiedbythe The formerguildhallof thetown’sbutchers is MUSEUMS the residence of thecathedralprovosts. structure thatwasbuiltin1609andonce orange-red 1321), with2m-thickwalls. the squatter 200m tothewest,alsoonriver bank,is and apyramid-shapedred-tile roof. About defensive towerwithawoodenuppersection century westof thebridge, the15th- Rhine stands snug winebars andlively restaurants. lovely Somecontain houses. antiquesshops, whichgasse), are linedwithcenturies-old On the Rheinsteig, whichOn theRheinsteig, runsalongthe Campingplatz Bruderhofer Campingplatz Life Sea The Almost across thestreet isthebright Kloster Zoffingen Kloster Archäologisches Landesmuseum Archäologisches h , foundedin1871anddedicated to Rheintorturm

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Gasse. ster, such as alongnarrow Salmannsweiler in thepedestrians-only area southof theMün- There are quite afew placestoeatand drink Eating &Drinking fit. tight with whimsy.Someof thebathroomsare a square, thisplacehas55roomsthatmixclass 125; Obermarkt8-12;s€50-68,d€95- -hotel.com, inGerman; shower €44) 3;s/d€53/78, swith Otto-Raggenbass-Strasse .de, inGerman; Seestr Hotel Barbarossa Hotel Sonnenhof 19 pn 9 Constance Theodor-Heuss-Str

Swiss Frontier Lake 12 This comfortable family-runguest- This comfortable To Casino 0 0 ) Beautifully located onacentral Beautifully (200m) Book accommodation online atBook lonelyplanet.com ( % 222 57;www.hotel-sonnenhof-konstanz lxox...... B4 Clixworx...... Passenger FerryDock...... Kultur-Rädle BikeRental...... Steg 4...... K9...... Das Boot...... Cuba Libre...... Wessenberg...... Shamrock...... Niederburg-Weinstube...... Rambagh Palace...... Pan...... Feinkost amSee...... (see6) Brauhaus JohannAlbrecht...... Sonnenhof...... Hotel Barbarossa...... Zeppelin Monument...... Stadttheater...... Sea Life...... Rosengartenmuseum...... Rheintorturm...... Pulverturm...... Münster...... Konzilgebäude...... Kloster Zoffingen...... Imperia Statue...... Domprobstei...... Children's Playground...... Art NouveauVillas...... Archäologisches Landesmuseum... Waschsalon undMehr...... Tourist Office...... Tel Center...... Tel Center...... Reisebank...... English Bookshop...... TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION ( % 128 990;www.barbarossa lonelyplanet.com D 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 0.3 miles 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 500 m B3 C3 B3 B3 A3 B3 B3 B2 B3 B2 B2 B3 B2 B4 B3 C3 B2 C4 B3 B2 B2 B2 B3 B2 C3 B2 B3 C2 B1 B3 B3 B3 B3 B3 palace inJaipur. colourful northIndianplace,namedafter a beer hallbutthegood-valuebeer menuisdecidedly Jun–mid-Sep) midnight Mon-Fri noon-midnightSat,5.30pm-midnightSun,noon- Mon-Fri, mains €6.50-14.50; lonelyplanet.com and Saturday nights. the ferry harbour,becomes adiscoon Friday restaurant, inarevamped warehouse facing has concerts. barthatsometimes cluband cocktail lar salsa Hussenstrasse4; German; parties. andsalsa well asdisconights from klezmertotraditionalMongolian, as venue withconcertsof imaginablesort, every Obere Laube71) www.party-news.de (inGerman). onthelocalnightlife scenesee For details Entertainment office. nextdoortothetourist little groceryisright on Thursday there’s karaoke. and Tuesdayisquiznight on foodandbeer, Monday there’s bingoandstudentdiscounts sort of forthelocalrugbyteam. On homebase asa popular withEnglishspeakers andserves 2pm-3amSat) Sun-Fri, tiramisù (€5). food –itsspecialitiesincluderavioli (€9)and bar,spaciousinnercourtyardandgood sleek modern art,attractsan‘in’crowdwithits 1am Sun) h has 400regional winesonoffer. Wed) h n veggie/meat mains€8/13; reviews. on thepremises incoppervats,gets excellent here offers brewed goodvalueandthebeer, rustic menufeaturing dailyspecials.Thefood mains €7.50-13.50) popular.Greek. It’sdeservedly Pan Steg 4 Steg Libre Cuba Feinkost amSee Wessenberg Niederburg-Weinstube Brauhaus JohannAlbrecht K9 Shamrock Palace Rambagh 5pm-midnight exceptSun&holidays,alsoopen10am-2pm 9am-1am Mon-Thu, 9am-3amSat,10am- 9am-2amFri, ) Exotic spicesticklethenostrilsatthis Exotic Thisrustic,hole-in-the-wallwinetavern

( ( % % Thischichi bar,decked outwith

( % 167 13; www.k9-kulturzentrum.de, in German; inGerman; 167 13;www.k9-kulturzentrum.de, 254 78;cnrSalmannsweiler&Hohenhausgasse;

( 174 28;Hafenstrasse 8; %

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( A rambling beer hallwitha Aramblingbeer % ( h 246 22; Bahnhofstrasse 4; 246 22;Bahnhofstrasse % LAKECONSTANCE ••AroundKonstanz (Bahnhofplatz 25; (Bahnhofplatz

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567 03; www.cuba-libre-kn.de, in 567 03;www.cuba-libre-kn.de, ( noon-2.30pm &5.30pm-midnight % 919 664;Wessenbergstrasse41; h h 254 58; Brückengasse 1,1stfl; 254 58;Brückengasse ( from 9pmWed-Sun)

% noon-2pm &6-11pmTue-Sun; This placelookslike a ( % 213 67;Niederburggasse7; 250 45;Konradigasse2; h h closed Jan) 7am-6pm) h Apopu- 7pm-1am This This tourist office. Friday nights from11pmto4am. Friday nights fies intoadiscoonmanySaturdayandsome man; AmHafen) 9am-6pm late Nov -late Mar) 9am-6pm late Nov-lateMar) child 6-15yr/student €6/free/3; 6-15yr/student/family €11.90/3.90/5.90/23.90, winteradult/ ful region, Constance tions intheLake delight- Perennially oneof themostpopularattrac- Island Mainau AROUND KONSTANZ 12.30pm Sun&holidaysEaster-Sep) 10am-4pmSatyear-round,also10am- & 2.30-6pmMon-Fri, ( bus travel. you aGästekarte entitling youtofree local yourhotelierat leasttwonights, willgive for inKonstanz Ifyoustay with theAltstadt. ily. Bus1linkstheMeersburg car-ferry dock are €3.50foroneperson and€5.80forafam- daypasses a singleticket buses); (€3fornight outlay willbeforabusdaypass. of Max-Stromeyer-Strasse, where your only Flugplatz (airfield)atthenorthwestern end lot 3kmnorthwestof nearthe theAltstadt, bet maybetoparkinthefree Park &Ride cially onSaturdayandSunday.Yourbest The citycentre nightmare, espe- isatraffic Around Getting Switzerland. offers connectionstodestinationsallover The Schweizer (Swiss trainstation) Bahnhof you generally have tochange inRadolfzell. the northernshore of byrail, Constance Lake Triberg andVillingen. Toget totownson est, linkingOffenburg with townssuch as which travels theBlackFor- hourlythrough terminus of thescenicSchwarzwaldbahn, catch acarferry. can alsotake theB31toMeersburg andthen Stuttgart nearSingen. Toget you toKonstanz B33, which linksupwiththeA81toandfrom onferryfor details optionssee p453 . mainferry Constance’s hub– isLake Konstanz &Away There Getting % Bicycles canbehired from For a taxi, ring For ataxi, Local buses HauptbahnhofKonstanz’ isthesouthern canbereachedBy car,Konstanz viathe Mainau Das Boot 273 10; Bahnhofplatz 29; perday€10; 273 10;Bahnhofplatz

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(www.sw.konstanz.de) 07531-3030; www.mainau.de; adult/child 0172-724 2031;www.dasboot.de,inGer- % 222 22. has been transformed has been h , 50msouthof the 7am-8pm late Mar-late Oct, Oct, 7am-8pm late Mar-late cost€1.80for h Kultur-Rädle Kultur-Rädle 9am-12.30pm

457 BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG half-timbered houses and stately baroque and stately houses half-timbered row, pedestrian-only lanes thatare lined with stadt by vineyardsand orchards. Itshistoric overlooking andsurrounded Constance Lake lage, scenicallyperched onarockyoutcrop Meersburg isapostcard-perfect romanticvil- % MEERSBURG atReichenau.stop off ferries andKonstanz–Radolfzell Schaffhausen at Wollmatingen-Urisberg). TheKonstanz– (mostrunsbegin by bus7372fromKonstanz the mainlandwithisland,which isserved up byvegetable cultivation. 2000. About two-thirdsof theislandistaken was declared aUnescoWorldHeritage Site in enau, anditisthankstothemthattheisland silent testimony totheGoldenAge of Reich- frescoes. stunning illuminated manuscriptsandvivid The so-calledReichenauer School produced it hadoneof thelargest librariesanywhere. During itsheyday,fromaround820to1050, about10kmwestofthe Untersee Konstanz. largest) Constance’s island (Lake located in Reichenau monastery on Pirmin foundedaBenedictine In AD724ahard-workingmissionary named % Island Reichenau with Überlingen. on thelinelinkingMeersburg andKonstanz hopaboard ferry apassenger warm season, or,inthe trainstation bus 4fromKonstanz’ way isabout 6kmnorthof take Konstanz), tilldusk. through ontheislandstraight stay youcan with waterfalls. Inthewarmseason which integrates bursting patterns of flowers your head;a House includethe and concerts.Highlights church andcastle, attend specialevents visitthebaroque andfountains, hothouses around 45hectares of splendidgardens, their wayover tostroll anarrowcauseway ofthe royalhouse Sweden. family,whoareby theBernadotte related to into avastMediterranean gardencomplex 458 To get toMainau, youcandrive (the cause- More thantwomillionvisitors ayearmake A 2km-longtree-lined connects causeway churches provideToday, three surviving 07532 /pop5500 07534 /pop5100 (UpperTown)has alabyrinthof nar- , where butterflies flit anddartaround LAKE CONSTANCE ••Meersburg , (www.reichenau.de) petting zoo ; andthe , a4.5km-by-1.5km Italian Cascade Butterfly Butterfly Ober- , h Internet accesscosts€3perhour. Dominicanmonastery. Housedinaone-time Oct-Apr) 9am-noon&2-4.30pmMon-Fri 10am-1pm SatMay-Sep, .meersburg.de; plete with defensive hall, walkways,aknights’ tour €6/3/4/5.10; adult/child 6-13yr/youth14-18yr/student€8/5/6/6.80,without Oberstadt perch, the fromitslofty Constance Lake Overlooking ALTES SCHLOSS Sights office Tourist Schickeria Post office the Unterstadt andtheharbour. willtakethe castles.Steigstrasse youdownto arch andyou’re theRathaus at Go through the Marktplatz, theheartof theOberstadt. street fromthetouristoffice, willtake youto Walking downhillfromthechurch, acrossthe &Information Orientation moreload iseven pronouncedthanuptop. promenade,whereseafront thetouristicover- the bustling intotheirlintels. Twocastleslordovercarved buildings; somehave theirconstructiondates residence why ifyouvisit)and (you’ll see Altes Schloss was no longer asa suitable Schenk decidedthat the vonStauffenberg NEUES SCHLOSS In 1710,Prince-Bishop Johann Franz private residence. Ludwig Uhland. Todaythecastleremains a Visitors includedtheBrothers Grimm and prim, Biedermeierquarters canbevisited). landmarks, oncegracedtheDM20 note (her Meersburg portrait,alongwithseveral whose Annette vonDroste-Hülshoff (1797–1848), his sister-in-law, poet thecelebrated German artists’ colony.Formanyyears itwashometo Lassberg, thecastlebecamesomethingof an the castleasasummerresidence. 1268 and1803,thebishopsof used Konstanz date fromthe1200s).Between sections extant the massive centralkeep isnamed (theoldest Merovingian kingDagobertI,after whom gobacktothe7th-century origins supposedly moats, dungeons andapretty grimvibe. Its from thechurch. Feb) Purchased in 1838 by Baron Joseph von Joseph in1838byBaron Purchased is a quintessential medieval castle, com- medieval isaquintessential noon-midnight) Internetaccess. (Am Bleicheplatz) Across the intersection (AmBleicheplatz)Acrosstheintersection ( % h ( Unterstadt % h 6887; StettenerStrasse3;perhr€4; 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm &2-6pmMon-Fri, 431 110; Kirchstrasse 4; www 431 110;Kirchstrasse 9am-6.30pm Mar-Oct, 10am-6pmNov- 9am-6.30pm Mar-Oct, Altes Schloss Altes (LowerTown)andits lonelyplanet.com (Burg;

% 800 00; including whitefish ingrapefruit sauce. specialities here includelotsof fish options, century buildings,thishistorichotel has20 Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com north of theoldtown,hasplenty of parking. -meersburg.de, in German; Marktplatz 11;mains€8.95- Marktplatz -meersburg.de, inGerman; superb sea panorama. superb sea den, afavourite a site forweddings,affords Neumann.Thebackgar-work of Bathasar of is the theoldcastle. Theelegantstaircase family €4/1/8; ( began building thepinkbaroque lonelyplanet.com €9.50-17.50) 17.50 dishes have favourites longbeen with locals. tious restaurant where the good-value regional mains €8.20-12.50; Strasse41; .zum-letzten-heller.de, Daisendorfer inGerman; Felchen Eating &Drinking minimum three-day stay). apartments fortwotofive adults(€48to€105; familyalsorentssame outUnterstadt holiday Obertor (theburnt-orange clocktower).The justinsidethe It’s situated intheAltstadt rooms, 13and23,are particularlyromantic. classic butcheery rooms.Thetwohuge corner Jan; 11;s/dfrom€48/79; Marktplatz .de, inGerman; of theoldtown. 400mnorth situated Daisendorfer off Strasse, .tauchschule-meersburg.de, It’s inGerman). forthelocalscubaschool (www home base the lake, hasfive cheery roomsandisalso across named after anAlpinepeakyoucansee h Von-Lassberg-Strasse 1;s/dfrom€42/56,off-season€30/48; payment isincashonly. An excellentchoice ifyou’re onabudget; p -heller.de, Strasse41;s/dfrom€35/55; Daisendorfer inGerman; Heller zumLetzten Gasthaus Sleeping ier, theinventor of theseaplane. Dornier Museum exhibits. Onthe1stfloor,interesting Städtische Galerie % Alemannen-Torkel zumBären Gasthof Heller zumLetzten Gasthaus zumBären Gasthof Haus Säntisblick Now state-owned, the castle houses the thecastlehouses Now state-owned, closed wintertomid-Feb; ) p Thissimpleandwelcomingplace,800m 440 4900; www.schloesser-und-gaerten.de; adult/child/ 440 4900;www.schloesser-und-gaerten.de; h ) Housed inthree Housed 13th-toearly-17th- (whitefish) isalocalspeciality. closed Dec-Feb &Mon) This300-year-old, barrel-vaulted h h 10am-1pm &2-6pmApr-Oct) isdedicated toClaudeDorn- LAKECONSTANCE ••Meersburg , which hosts temporary ( closed Wed&Nov) ( ( % % %

pns 9277; [email protected]; 432 20;www.baeren-meersburg 1067; Steigstrasse 16-18;meals ( % ( % The south German ThesouthGerman 432 20;www.baeren 6149; www.zum-letzten

Anunpreten- Thispension, ( ) % Neues Schloss 6149; www justeast h closed in the high season. Free be parkingmight season. in thehigh ing lotnear thecar-ferry port isoften full Meersburg isonfoot. Even thelarge paypark- The best–infactthe only–waytoget around Around Getting church. Meersburg’s mainbusstopisnext tothe four dailyMondaytoFriday,twoSaturday). Meersburg withRavensburg (45minutes, weekends, bybus7395.Bus7373connects almosthourly,including city isalsoserved (45 minutes) andFriedrichshafen; thelatter express bus7394makes thetriptoKonstanz 17km westof Friedrichshafen. here, see p453 . onthemanyferryFor details optionsfrom &Away There Getting 100m northof theoldtown. can stockuponsuppliesatthissupermarket panoramic terrace. whipped cream (€3.60)ontheNeuesSchloss’ your coffee, icecream, orapplestrudelwith h the NeuesSchloss. national flavour. Situated halfablockfrom fishdisheswithaninter-ditional Bodensee late 1800s,hasaclassychef tra- whoinfuses restaurant, familysincethe runbythesame €10.50-25.80; upstairs. taurant feast like intheres- Prince vonStauffenberg wine tavern haslotsof localvintages. You’ll From Monday to Friday, seven timesaday, From MondaytoFriday,seven CityMarkt Edeka imBarockschloss Café zumBecher Winzerstube Meersburg, whichis lacksatrainstation, €15) 9/1,Kressbronn; perpersoninclbreakfast Kirchstrasse 6153; www.schorschs-heuhotel.de,inGerman; and Lindau. option is you canbringyourownsleepingbag. One clean, fragranthay.Sheetsare available,or as thenameimplies,yousleepinabarnon (straw hotels;www.strohtour.de, inGerman) can overnight ataboutadozen Constance,you tion experiencearoundLake For aunique(andinexpensive) accommoda- A ROLLINTHEHAY 10am-6.30pm, closed Nov-Mar & Mon Oct &Apr) &MonOct 10am-6.30pm, closedNov-Mar , aboutmidwaybetweenFriedrichshafen h Schorsch’s Heuhotel closed Mon) (Daisendorfer Strasse) (Daisendorfer

( % Thiswood-panelled ( % 800 00;insideAltesSchloss; 9009; Höllgasse4;mains

Self-caterers Self-caterers Heuhotels ( % where, 07543- Savour

459

BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG €5.50/3/3.50/4.50; adult/child6-16yr/student/senior www.salem.de inGerman; before 8pm. tourist office; youcanreturn themanytime some of the rococo rooms) can only be seen some of therococo rooms)canonly be seen parts of thecomplex (such as altars. Certain by the26earlyneoclassical-style alabaster Gothicpurity issomewhatmarredwhose husband of ElizabethII). Queen by PrincePhilip (Duke of Edinburgh and elite boardingschool thatwasbrieflyattended descendants. Thewestwingisoccupied byan and isstillthemainresidence of thefamily’s the GrandDuchy of after secularisation Baden Sun &holidaysApr-1Nov) is nowknownas thehugeGermany, complex(foundedin1137) the largest andrichest monastery insouthern abbey of Salem,7kmtothenortheast.Once church atBirnauwiththeformerCistercian The Schloss Salem (10km return). Überlingen andthenwalktoBirnauback church. Youcanalsotake aferry ( p453 ) to and Meersburg (20minutes) stopsnearthe bus 7395fromFriedrichshafen (50minutes) loveliest promenades.Twice-hourly seafront of northwest of Meersburg and 5kmsoutheast fresco. such asthetinymirrorincupola details worked hisusualmagic–lookforwhimsical Göz to theceiling,where GottfriedBernhard first. Atsomepointyourgazewillbedrawn and profuse youdon’tknowwhere tolook master Peter Thumbof Vorarlberg. by lush vineyards,itwasbuiltbytherococo overlookingbluff the lake andsurrounded region.Constance Sittingmajestically ona the truearchitectural of theLake highlights sion free) The exuberantlyrococo Birnau AROUND MEERSBURG 9-11am Sun&holidays) Stadtgraben 5;perday€4.50; dorfer Strasse. findable northof theoldtownalongDaisen- 460 Birnau isjustoff theB31,about 8km When youwalkin,thedécorissointricate Bikes canbehired at The focalpointis the 14th-century Überlingen Prälatenweg LAKE CONSTANCE ••AroundMeersburg , afavourite forweddings,isoneof , which hasoneof theregion’s h (Prelates’ Path) connectsthe 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat,10.30am-6pm , downthealleynextto Schloss Salem . Itbecamethepropertyof h Hermann Dreher Hermann Dreher rental 8am-noonMon-Sat, Birnau church

( % 07553-814 37; ( % Münster

(admis- 5176; , in thecornerofSeeHotel. outsidetheStadtbahnhof, Onthesquare right Mar) 9am-noon&2-4pmMon-Thu,& Oct, Nov- 9am-noonFri 9am-noon&2-5pmMon-Thu,May-Sep, Apr 9am-noonFri 2; Bahnhofplatz drichstrasse runs between the train tracks and drichstrasse thetraintracksand runsbetween andthenUferstrasse.is calledSeestrasse Frie- promenade Going easttowest,theseafront andtheferry Museum port. to theZeppelin and, 800msoutheast,theHafenbahnhof, next Stadtbahnhof, 200mnorthof thewaterfront, There are themain-line twotrain stations, &Information Orientation a finemuseum. turn of the20thcenturyandnowfocusof Ferdinand (1838–1917)atthe vonZeppelin built here under thestewardship of Count airships, firstbe associated withtheZeppelin nicer industrialtowns.Itsnamewillforever andissurelyConstance oneof Germany’s for 11kmalongtheplacidshore of Lake Founded in1811, Friedrichshafen stretches % FRIEDRICHSHAFEN to Friedrichshafen hourly. or two. traingoes TheBodensee–Gürtelbahn or 30minutes; viaOberuhldingen) hour every various restaurants. workshops, gardensand old-time artisans’ festivals, alsohasafire-fighting museum, May-Oct, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr,also MonJul&Aug) May-Oct, student/senior/family €7.50/3/6.50/13; ( cafés andicecreameries, isthe linedwith promenade, Seestrasse, pleasant Near theeastern endof Friedrichshafen’s Sights office Tourist Stadtbahnhof. Post office 9pm Nov-Apr)TwoblocksinlandfromtheGondelhafen. h &TeleInternet Cafe City Washlaundrette ATMs commercial zonejustinlandfromSeestrasse. the lakefront, linkingtheStadtbahnhof withthe 10pm Mon-Sat) About 1km north oftheZeppelin Museum. 10pm Mon-Sat)About1kmnorth % 16). Thecomplex,which often hostsmusic or €4extraeach, free forchildren aged sixto on twodifferent guidedtours (€3 inGerman

Bus 7397linksSalemwithMeersburg (20 07541 /pop58,000 10am-10pm Mon-Sat,11am-10pmSun&holidays,to 380 10; www.zeppelin-museum.de; Seestrasse 22;adult/ Seestrasse 380 10;www.zeppelin-museum.de; NeartheseafrontonSchanzstrasse. (Bahnhofplatz) To the right asyou exitthe Totheright (Bahnhofplatz) ( h % 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 300 10; www.friedrichshafen.ws; 300 10;www.friedrichshafen.ws; (Schanzstrasse16;perhr€2; (Schwabstrasse16; h lonelyplanet.com Zeppelin 9am-5pm Tue-Sun h 8am-

Museum ,

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com the Nazis hated Bauhaus architecture.the Nazishated Bauhaus enbahnhof, builtin1932.Just fortherecord: formerHaf- Bauhaus-style inthesleek, housed lonelyplanet.com furnishings inside and a beer gardenoutside, furnishings insideandabeer Friedrichshafen’s better deals,withwooden Werastrasse35;s/d€50/70; -fn.de, inGerman; also take localbus7toEberhardstrasse. Friday, andonSaturdaymorning; youcan almosthourly fromMondayto train stations Stadtbahnhof. Bus7587comeshere fromboth east of theHafenbahnhof and3km eastof the is ontheRotach River near thelakefront 2km here) this235-bed hostel after GrafZeppelin, n Lindauer Strasse3;dm1st/subsequentnight€20.80/17.60; promenade. ias, linetheSeestrasse outside. Numerouseateries, includingpizzer- hasafreeThe touristoffice bookingterminal Sleeping &Eating .de (inGerman). www.kirchenmusik-freundeskreis-fncerts see oncon- choir Fordetails stalls. vividly carved Württemberg. Note thelavish ceilingandthe and isstillinhabited bytheducalfamilyof It’s theonlyaccessiblepartof the Schloss, 1695and1701byChristianThumb. between aboutnoon-6pmSunmid-Apr–Oct) 11am-6pm Fri, strasse; onion-towered, baroque front promenadeisanchored bythetwin park’s eastern end( tric) canberented attheGondelhafen, atthe Uferstrasse. ing inthegrassylakefront sculptures are sprinkledaroundtown,includ- on Buchhornplatz. Lotsmore creative modern less-steel floor includesworksbyOttoDix. man). Theeclecticartcollectiononthetop (mostofcommentary the signage isinGer- audioguide (€3)gives 1½hours of English provide technical An andhistoricalinsights. ofand aseries fourshortmovies (inGerman) andEnglish)formation terminals (inGerman mock-up of of a33msection the the (including anoriginalmotorgondolafrom est materials available inthe1930s.Exhibits theboxed(see text, p462 ), madeof thelight- The western endof Friedrichshafen’s sea- DJH hostel DJH hostel Children willhave funplayingonthestain- Gasthof Rebstock Rebstock Gasthof centrepieceThe museum’s isafull-scale ) Named (like seemingly everything else else everything Named(like seemingly Graf Zeppelin h 9am-6pm Mon,Tue, Thu&Sat,9am-2.30pmWed, Zeppelin sculpture Zeppelin Boats ( % LAKECONSTANCE ••Ravensburg (row,pedal,motorandelec- 724 04; www.jugendherberge.de; 724 04;www.jugendherberge.de; ), models,touch-screen in- ( % € 5 to 216 94;www.gasthof-rebstock € outside the museum outsidethemuseum 17 perhour). Schlosskirche Stadtgarten Hindenburg p ) One of

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tower. opposite theskeletal lookout steel Seestrasse that serves assomething of ashoppinghub. that serves cosy town withanattractive centre Altstadt and children’s books.Today,Ravensburg isa sburger famed foritsgames publishing house, an industrythatwould later spawntheRaven- citiestomass-producepaper, first German from thelinentrade. Itwasalsooneof the rich timesandbecameexceedingly medieval Friedrichsburg, wasaFree Imperial Cityin Ravensburg, situated 18kminlandfrom % RAVENSBURG (€15.70, 1¼hours). toRavensburg (15minutes)goes andUlm bytheSüdbahn,which Lindau. It’salsoserved the lake’s northernshore to fromRadolfzell Gürtelbahn railline,which runsalongornear hourly, includingonweekends, bybus7395. almost latter city andBirnauare alsoserved (1¼ hours) viaMeersburg (30minutes). The express bus7394makes thetriptoKonstanz Museum. outside theZeppelin ing timesare posted onthewaterfront just see toKonstanz, the catamaran p453 . Sail- andItaly. flies mainlytocitiesinGermany 7586and7394. by buses which isfrequently linked tothecitycentre lin to Ryanair fliesfromLondonStansted andDub- &Around There Getting 8am-4pmSat) Mon-Fri, regional andinternational dishes. serves pool. Therestaurant (mains€18.50to€23.50) rated steam rooms,andasauna, bathandwhirl- hasavery lobby, deco- 98cleverly Germanic €75/85; 33;summers/dfrom€85/140,winter man; Friedrichstrasse bian dishes,includingMaultaschen. andSwa- traditionalGerman €14.80) serves city centre. Therestaurant (mains€8.80to ern roomsattheedge of thepedestrianised unpretentious, family-runhotel with20mod- 32;s€50-65,d€80-100; -fn.de; Friedrichstrasse bahnhof (take Eugenstrasse). this issituated 750mnorthwestof theStadt- Friedrichshafen isontheBodensee– timesaday, From MondaytoFriday,seven onferryFor details options,including Fehl supermarket Buchhorner Hof Schwanen Hotel 0751 /pop48,500 pna Friedrichshafen’s airport Friedrichshafen’s ) This old-time,four-star place (

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% (Karlstrasse 36; (Karlstrasse 2050; www.buchhorn.de,inGer- 385 50;www.hotel-schwanen InterSky

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BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG online forfree forahalf-hour. all isupstairs. Onthegroundfloorpeopleunder27cango h office), hasan elaborateoffice), façade. Renaissance shoemakers (theground floorisnow apost Lederhaus other sideof Marienplatz, the16th-century Rathaus gable. AcrossMarktstrasse istheburnt-orange is thelate-Gothic andtheAlpsfrom uptop.Adjacent Altstadt superbviewsoffortifications, affords the 11am-4pm SatApr-Oct) high ofsection lively centuries pastare arrayedalongthecentral A numberof imposingmonuments from Sights &Activities office Tourist Stadtbücherei Ravensbuch Eisenbahnstrasse. issixblockstothewestalong train station areRavensburg’s sights nearby.The right than aproperpublicsquare; almostallof Marienplatz, which ismore along,widestreet The heartof isthepedestrianised Altstadt &Information Orientation 462 bookshelf ofEnglish-languagebooks. Herrenstrasse. Theentrance ison ofMarienplatz. Sat) Ablocknortheast 16; Kirchstrasse can floatover Constanceona12-passenger Lake periodsoftheyear,youtoo gashelium.Duringcertain built airshipsare nowfilledwiththeinert .de) first albumreleased byLed Zeppelin (in1969)featured aphotoofthedisaster onthecover. ‘Oh thehumanity!’,three ofthemostfamouswordsinhistorybroadcastjournalism.The day–wailed Morrison–inasegmentbroadcastthenext Horror-struck, theradiojournalistHerbert 36passengersandcrew (61otherssurvived).the hydrogen-filledcraftburstintoflames,killing three NewJersey, timesthelengthofAirbus’newA380.In1937,whilelandinginLakehurst, instantly recognisable symbolsofNazipower. world injust21days. ontheirfins,hadbecome Bythemid-1930sZeppelins, bearingswastikas (LZ 127),made590trips,including114acrosstheAtlantic, and in1929shetravelled aroundthe liners butmadeofsuperlightweightmaterials. The mostfamousofthemall,the 1900, were asocean soonusedforpassengerflights,outfitted asluxuriouslyandcomfortably work covered byacotton-linenfairing. The cigar-shaped behemoths,thefirstofwhichflewin today’snonrigidUnlike airships(suchastheGoodyearblimp),Zeppelins hadanaluminiumframe- OH THEHUMANITY! for 10am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pmSat)Internetaccessfor 10am-7pm Tue-Fri, Blaserturm These daysthe The . Tripsof30/40/60/120minutes cost€190/250/335/675.NT,incaseyouwere wondering,stands neue Technologie LAKE CONSTANCE ••Ravensburg , withsomelovely glass.Onthe stained Hindenburg , oncethedomain of tanners and ( ( % h (city library; Marienplatz 12;perhr€2; (citylibrary;Marienplatz % (adult/child €1/0.50; 163 88; Marienplatz 34)Hasa 163 88;Marienplatz

9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 828 00;www.ravensburg.de; Marienplatz , partof theoriginalcity Waaghaus (LZ129),thelargest airshipever built,wasawhopping245mlong,more than Zeppelin company (newtechnology). Take-off andlandingare inFriedrichshafen. . Thewhite, 51m- , withitsstepped h 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Mon-Fri,

(www.zeppelin.de) Zeppelin NT Mehlsack Gothic its intricate tiledroof, late- andtheweighty, the round architecture inthemeantime. to openin2010,andare worthalookforthe at thefarsouthernendof Marienplatz. The building onthesite of citygate, is amedieval formed into arearound acourtyard.These beingtrans- set houses exceptionallate-medieval seven .de; Herrenstrasse 16; s/dfrom€75/99; and upthestairs. modern style. Theentrance isaroundback very reasonable roomsare decorated ina s/d €38/70; minutes onfootfromthetrainstation. tower, southeastof It’sabout 25 theAltstadt. is perched onthehillsideabove theMehlsack This quaintlittlehostel, recently renovated, Veitsburg Castle;dm1st/subsequentnight€18.10/15.10; DJH hostel Sleeping that offers afinepanorama. hillside castlefoundedinthe11thcentury leadsuptothe a steep staircase Fromthere astheBlaserturm. height the same At the Altstadt’s southernedge the At theAltstadt’s stands At thefarnorthernendof Marienplatz is Hotel Residenz Residenz Hotel Baur Garni Hotel Three blockseastof Marienplatz stand isstillaround,thoughitsFriedrichshafen- Liebfrauenkirche (FlowerSack),awhite, roundtower pn ( %

Grüner Turm ( % Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 253 63; www.jugendherberge-ravensburg.de; 253 63;www.jugendherberge-ravensburg.de; Museum Humpis Museum 0700-9377 2001;www.zeppelinflug ) Thisplace,inanundersized ( % ( % 369 80;www.residenz-ravensburg 256 16; fax 132 29; Marienplatz 1; 256 16;fax13229;Marienplatz (Green Tower),with .

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, a ) 8am-1pm Sat) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com stairs, are dullbutspacious. rooms,reached33 light-yellow viacreaky just behindoffice, theLiebfrauenkirche. The modern building100meastof thetourist lonelyplanet.com Eisenbahndamm, arailbridgeEisenbahndamm, opentocyclists bridge at itsnortheastern tip,and bythe aroadto themainland by theSeebrücke, and harbourare tobefound, isconnected The Orientation world. withstudents fromaroundtheand meet at theendof Junetorubelbowsandminds Prize winners have gathered here foraweek world wealthandromance. Since1951, Nobel are postcards,exudesold- worth athousand on amajor north–southtradingroute. joyed aheadyprosperitythankstoitslocation the MiddleAges, asaFree ImperialCity,iten- the northeastern cornerof Constance. In Lake occupiesaflowerylittleislandin to Bavaria, Lindau, onasnippetof coastlinethatbelongs % LINDAU hourly). Stuttgart (€25.20to€33,twohours, atleast Ulm (€13.40,50minutes, atleasthourly)and richshafen (15minutes, twiceanhour)with Ravensburg isontheraillinelinkingFried- &Away There Getting of wine. bar that’sperfect or glass foracoffee, beer pineapples. from localasparagustoGhanaian everything stretches eastwardsfromMarienplatz. Ithas 1pm Sat) surrounds. andlocalfusiondishes inchicItalian bistro trendy café-restaurant offers reasonably priced zel andSwabiandishessuch as ediblesincludeschnit-earth pub-eatery whose €6.60-15; There are lotsof eateries alongMarienplatz. Eating &Drinking Balthes Today Lindau, whose viewsofToday Lindau,whose theAlps Bauern Markt Food market Central Humpisgaststätte 08382 /pop24,300 Insel Thissuperlively outdoormarket h (

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(Marktstrasse 6; (Marktstrasse LAKECONSTANCE ••Lindau ( % 256 98; Marktstrasse 47;mains 256 98;Marktstrasse Avery moderncafé- h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, h Adown-to- Maultaschen 9-1am) h This This 8am- . visited onatour. h the harbouroffers analmostMediterranean Maxilimienstrasse. of theSeebrücke. laundryonthemainland,about1kmnorth service Diebsturm the added only in1975.Alongside stands on19th-century designs,which werebased with itsstepped gable,isadorned withmurals cal musicalinstruments dedicated to paintings. Thesection has afinecollectionof furniture, weaponsand adult/child €2.50/1; the attractive lions andvoluptuoushumanforms.Inside, 1729, decorated withariotof trompel’oeil Haus zumCavazzen towncentre,pedestrianised isdominated by sheltered port. the Mangturm, isonthenorthernedge of the Leuchtturm The square tile–roofed, 13th-century you’restate of in,astatue lion. theBavarian youforget and,justincase house) which ture 33m-high summerexperience.Constance something here istheconsummate Lake touristssoakingupthesun.Sipping heeled white boats,upmarket hotels andlotsof well- scene, withaskybluerthanblue,bobbing the In thewarmseason Sights Lindau Wasch-Center office Tourist Post office Lindauer Telecenter ATMs Information Maximilianstrasse. thoroughfare, shop-lined thepedestrianised, of thewestern endof themaineast–west the eastern partof theisland,ablock south and pedestrians.TheHauptbahnhof isin access; 100m to the left asyouexit theHauptbahnhof. access; 100mtotheleft h 9am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Fri mid-Oct–Mar) 9am-noon &3-5pmMon-Fri & 9.30am-4pmSatApr–mid-Jun &mid-Sep–mid-Oct, 2pm Sat&Sunmid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-6pmMon-Fri LudwigstrasseGerman; 68; The 15th-century The Marktplatz, attheeastern edge of the Out attheharbourgates isLindau’ssigna- tours at2.15pm&3pmTue-Sun Apr-Oct) 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pmSat&Sun)Internet 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, There are several along the western section of There alongthewesternsection are several (Brigand’s Tower),oncea tinyjail. (cnr Maximilianstrasse &Bahnhofplatz) (cnrMaximilianstrasse (Old Lighthouse), alsoknownas (OldLighthouse), ( % Stadtmuseum h Neuer Leuchtturm 260 030;www.prolindau.de,in , abaroqueconstructionof (Bahnhofplatz 8;perhr€4; (Bahnhofplatz 11am-5pm Sun & Tue-Fri, 2-5pmSat) 11am-5pm Sun&Tue-Fri, (Holdereggenstrasse 21) Aself- h Altes Rathaus Altes

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BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG gasse 18;mains€6.80-13.30; the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake pizza andmeatdishes. (€5.60to€8.40), (€7.50),pasta also haslasagna icecream,Known foritsexcellentItalian it views. islinedwithcafésthathave Seepromenade Eating Seebrücke. Situated theportand midway between lovingly kept roomswithantiquetouches. placehas11spaciousand run, thisdelightful was onceastopontheFrankfurt–Milanmail Dec-late Mar) FischergasseGerman; 3;s€44-52,d€88-108; Maximilienstrasse. smallish bathrooms.It’sablocknorthof offershouse, modern,stylish roomswith inacenturies-oldhalf-timbered guesthouse, s/d €47/84,swithoutbathroom€28; able choice ifyou’re budget. onatight with 17cheaply furnishedrooms.Areason- a blockandhalffromtheSeepromenade, €40/60; 4-6;s/dwithoutbathroomfrom Metzgergasse Hintere German; to bus3atZUP. 2 fromtheHauptbahnhof andthentransfer ping mall.Toget there bybus,take line1or on themainlandnearLindau-Park shop- hostel 2kmnortheastof theHauptbahnhof, schoolholidays; Christmas a bitlessinlowseason; Herbergsweg 11;dm1st/2nd/4thnight€20.50/19.90/19.35, DJH hostel Sleeping of ChristbyHans HolbeintheElder. orial, isdecorated withfrescoes of thePassion millennium-old church that’snowawarmem- the former 464 © LonelyPlanetPublications Gasthof Engel Gasthof Inselgraben Gasthof Three blocksnorthof thetouristoffice, Il Cappuccino Post Alte Kederer’s Leuchtturm Kederer’s LAKE CONSTANCE ••Lindau h closed Nov-late Mar) closed Nov-lateMar) Ina300-year-old coaching innthat ( %

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Getting Around Getting Ravensburg (€7.60,45minutes). the SüdbahntoUlm(€19.30,1¾hours) via andthesouthernterminus ofRadolfzell; richshafen (€4.60,15minutes) westwardto alongthelake’sgoes northshore viaFried- of railline,which theBodensee–Gürtelbahn beginsinLindau. eastward toBerchtesgaden, strasse Munich by theA96.Thescenic see onferryFor details services, p453 . &Away There Getting veggies. seasonal whitefish andlotsof dishesmadewithfresh wurst (including Swabian-Bavarian fare includeshomemade mains €9.90-18.90) since 1985.Itoffers excellentvalue. chefand Austriandishes, has hadthesame alities includelocalwhitefish, restaurant, speci- civilised whose and highly man; Fischergasse 3;mains€7.50-16.50) wooden ceiling. inexpensive, heartymealunderanancient September ingoodweather.September 9am untilnoonSundayandholidays May to 9.30am-12.30pm Sat) 2-6pm Mon-Fri, hof at catch a bus over. to parkonthemainlandandeitherwalkor the traintracks,butyourbestbetmaybe park atthewestern endof theisland,beyond There’sto ‘Lindau-Insel’. alarge metered car costs €1.50,a24-hourpass is€3.50. main bushub,knownasZUP. Asingleticket The islandistinyandidealforwalking. 10pm, closedWedinwinter) Bikes canberented insidethe Hauptbahn- 1and2linktheHauptbahnhofBuses tothe zumSünfzen Gasthaus Lindau islocated attheeastern terminus Lindau isontheB31andconnected to Post Alte To get totheislandbycarfollowsigns (German Alpine Road), which winds AlpineRoad),which winds (German Fahrrad Station Fahrrad ( % Book accommodation online atBook lonelyplanet.com 934 60; www.alte-post-lindau.de, inGer- 934 60;www.alte-post-lindau.de, An island institution whose An islandinstitutionwhose Schübling Adecentplaceforan ( ( % % 5865; Maximilianstrasse 1; 5865; Maximilianstrasse 212 61; , which alsoopens ), locally caught ), locallycaught Thiswelcoming lonelyplanet.com Deutsche Alpen- h Maultaschen 9am-1pm &