Aug. 19, 1941. H. C. HASKELL 2,253,374 WOVEN FABRTC Filed March 29, 1940

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oked 24 ATTORNEY Patented Aug. 19, 1941 2,253,374

UNITED STATES PATENT of FI CE 2,253,374 wovEN FABRIC Henry C. Haskell, Moosup, Conn, assignor to Brunswick Worsted Mills, Inc., Moosup, Conn., a corporation of Rhode Island Application March 29, 1940, serial No. 326,695 9 claims. (?. 139—38?) This invention relates to a woven fabric and appearance. In conventional sharkskin, haVa. more particularly to a fabric woven with Woolen ing alternate dark and light shade worsted yarns yarn, with worsted yarn, with yarn containing a . in both the warp and the weft, the manufacturer mixture of wool with other fibres, or with a com meets a serious problem in the matter of rejects. bination of such yarns, which has a predominant 5 All worsted or woolen yarns vary so in size due to dark diagonal visual effect of the type distinctive spinning or other variations inherent in the yarn to sharkskin worsted and sharkskin cheviot fab manufacture, that, when woven into a fabric, a rics. The fabric of this invention has, in gen light or dark colored yarn in a portion of a pick or eral, the appearance of a conventional sharkskin in a portion of a warp will stand out, and so fabric, although the distinctive sharkskin fea 0 catch the eye in contrast to a dark or light col tures are not as pronounced as in ordinary shark ored adjacent yarn that the even appearance of skin fabric. However, the sharkskin, features the design is marred. Conventional sharkskin. are sufficiently apparent to permit the novel fab fabrics must always be examined for these im ric of this invention to compete with, and find perfections. Since, however, their occurrence is use as a substitute for sharkskin fabrics. - 15 almost completely unavoidable, conventional Ordinary worsted and cheviot sharkskins are sharkskin rejects may run high and usually ex used extensively in the fabrication of men's suit ceed 5% of a total production. Even so-called ings, and to a lesser extent for other apparel, both regular goods, which are acceptable, are charac men's and women's, and are generally desirable teristically and undesirably uneven in appear because of the unique appearance of the fabric. 20 ance. As will be seen, where a weft yarn of a The individuality of sharkskin is inherent in the single shade is utilized, as in the fabric of this fabric and is dependent upon the particular com invention, imperforations of the type just enum bination of a certain weave with a certain warp erated will be entirely obviated so far as the weft and weft design. The weave, is a two-and-two is concerned, thus reducing by half the possi twill and the warp and weft design results from bility of unevenness in appearance. As a mat interweaving alternate dark and light weft ter of fact, it has been found that the uniformity. threads with alternate dark and light. Warp of appearance of the fabric of this invention is threads. Obviously, such fabrics cannot be pro such that there are only isolated instances of re duced on a plain single shuttle loom or on an jects due to the type of imperfection under dis automatic box loom, and conventional sharkskin 30 cussion. , is commonly woven on a pick-and-pick loom, one It has been found that if the color and shade of shuttle feeding the dark and the other shuttle the single weft yarn used in the manufacture of feeding the light weft thread in alternation. the fabric of this invention is chosen with due I have discovered that it is possible to weave regard to the colors and shades of alternating . on automatic looms a fabric, which, for the pur 35 dark and light warp yarns so that the ultimate pOSes of the trade, simulates the distinctive fabric comprises an interweaving of yarns of sharkskin features sufficiently to permit the use three shades, of the same color, the three-shade. of the fabric as a sharkskin substitute but which, fabric, when woven in two-and-two twill, will in fact, has an individual pleasing and unique present a design and appearance not only highly i. appearance due to the presence of Weft threads, 40 pleasing and individual but such as to convey to not of two different shades in alternation as in the eye an impression sufficiently similar to that conventional sharkskin, but of a single same imparted by a conventional sharkskin fabric as shade. * to permit the sale and use of the fabric of this One highly important feature of the fabric invention as a substitute-but by no means an of this invention, then, is that it may be woven on inferior substitute-for conventional sharkskin, an automatic plain or box loom, thereby not only and at a substantial saving in manufacture cost. increasing the speed of production but lessening The preferred fabric herein described is thus pro labor costs to such an extent as to permit a sub duced by utilizing a two-and-two twill weave stantial price reduction and proportionate saving with dark and light warp yarns alternating in the to the consumer, who can accept it as a complete warp and with a single same weft yarn inter ly satisfactory substitute for the more expensive. woven with the warps and having a color and conventional sharkskin. shade so chosen with regard to the colors and Of almost equal importance inevaluating thead shades of the warp yarns that the resulting fab. vantages of the fabric of this invention over con ric will have the desired appearance. The fab ventional sharkskin is its superior uniformity of 55 ric, then, in its simplest form, is a three-shade 2 2,253,374 fabric as distinguished from a conventional two diagonals both give the effect of blends, one of shade or four-shade sharkskin and has therefore which, A-A, being a composite of the dark and in certain of its aspects a different appearance intermediate shade yarns only, gives a total effect from conventional sharkskin fabric, though the equivalent to a shade just under dark, and the difference in appearance is not as pronounced as other of which, B-B, being a composite of light the similarity. and intermediate shade yarns only, gives a total Preferably, as in conventional sharkskin, the effect equivalent to a shade slightly darker than Warp yarns are of two different shades. Under light. Obviously, the contrast between diagonals Such circumstances, the single shade weft yarn A-A and B-B is much greater than any con may be of the same general color as both the O trast between diagonals C-C and D-D. Fur Warp yarns, but, in any case, the shade of the thermore, of the four diagonals, the diagonal single Weft yarn should be intermediate, and de A-A will tend to appear the darkest, and it is sirably approximately half-way between, the two this presence of a single darkest blend diagonal, shades of the warp yarns. contrasted with a lightest blend diagonal, which For example, in the drawing there is shown an 15 gives the predominating distinctive left-hand enlarged fragment of a fabric manufactured in "staircase' effect which is common to this fabric accordance with this invention. In this drawing, and to conventional sharkskin. V the vertical yarns represent warp yarns and the . As will be understood, a fabric could be woven horizontal yarns represent weft yarns. Thus, the which would have a right-handed "staircase" warp yarns include a set of light Warp yarns 0 20 effect by making suitable variation in the type of interspersed alternately with dark warp yarns 20 two-and-two twill weave utilized. That is, the and the weft yarns 30 are of a third shade and heddle action, instead of being 1, 2, 3, 4; II, 2, 3, 4; Substantially all identical in shade, these weft etc., would be 4, 3, 2, ; 4, 3, 2, ; etc. And by yarns being interwoven with the warp yarns in a interspersing the latter weave with the former, a two-and-two twill as shown. ??? 25 herring-bone twill may be secured with the hed The invention may be applied in the production dle action 1, 2, 3, 4; 2, , 4, 3; , 2, 3, 4: 2, 1, 4, 3; of fabrics of a multitude of colors. For instance, etc. if the warp yarn includes white and black alter Likewise, silk design or plaid threads may be nate yarns, a gray weft yarn may be used. Like introduced at desired points, either in the warp wise, three shades of blue, three shades of brown, 30 or the filling, but the general background weave three shades of green, or three shades of other and appearance remains the same and in accord colors may be incorporated in the production of ance with the invention. Of course if plaid fill fabrics of this invention. In addition, white plus ing is desired, an automatic box loom or similarly two shades of blue, brown, green, respectively, acting loom will be necessary. etc., may be employed. Thus, in each case, the 35. The individual yarn of the three different lightest shade found in one set of warp yarns, to shades or mixture of shades may be produced in in the drawing, may approach or even be white, a number of different manners. First, of and the darkest shade found in the other set of course, Single ply yarn may be used, individ warp yarns, 20 in the drawing, may approach or ually dyed to three different shades. Multi even be black. The three shades do not have to 40 ply yarn dyed in the same manner may be be all of the same color, but are preferably so. utilized. Moreover, the use of multi-ply yarn With some colors, such as green and blue, a, Suggests a ready method of obtaining the inter judicious intermixture is possible without depart mediate shade. Thus, a two-ply weft yarn may ing from the invention. For instance, a blue beformed from two individual plies, one of which shade in a weft may be incorporated with two is the shade of the dark warp yarn and the other shades of green Warp yarn. of which is the shade of the light warp yarn. Such fabrics, woven with a two-and-two twill Preferably, if two-ply yarn is used in the weft, weave of the type shown in the drawing, will it is also used in the warp. A further method of present what can be called a left-handed "stair securing the intermediate weft shade is by spin case' effect, due, as the drawing reveals, to the 50 ning into a single thread filaments of two dif presenec of predominant dark diagonal staircase ferent shades, one filament shade being substan like broken lines extending from the bottom right tially the same as that of the dark warp yarn and of the fragment to the top left. One of such the other filament shade being substantially the diagonal lines is indicated by the extension line Same as that of the light warp yarn. Other A-A. Upon close inspection, it will be revealed 55 methods of preparing a weft yarn of the proper that the dark line effect A-A is formed by the shade will readily suggest themselves to those continuous adjacency of dark and intermediate skilled in the art. shade yarns only. Each of the dark diagonals As an illustration of a suitable worsted fabric like A-A is separated from an adjacent dark manufactured in accordance with this invention, diagonal by a predominantly light diagonal such 60 a two-ply both ways fabric having a yarn size as B-B, formed by the continuous diagonal ad of 932's in both the warp and the weft may be jacency of white and intermediate shade yarns woven with a 70 by 60 count. Coarser yarn Only. ??? numbers and coarser constructions accentuate The diagonals extending in the opposite direc the sharkskin effect. tion, that is, from bottom left to top right, present quite a different appearance, involving either con producedOf course by theutilizing fabric a ofwarp this ofinvention a single mayshade, be tinuous alternating adjacency of dark and light and alternating light and dark wefts. However, shade yarns only, as in the diagonal C-C, or such fabric would have to be woven on a pick solid continuous adjacency of intermediate shade and-pick loom and, therefore, while it would yarns, as in the diagonal D-D. The left to right O secure the advantage of greater uniformity as diagonal D-D is therefore of the intermediate compared with conventional sharkskin, it would shade. The left to right diagonal C-C, being a not overcome the necessity of utilizing a pick composite of light and dark shade yarns only, and-pick loom, and would not have the eCOOrnic gives a blend effect equivalent to the intermediate SY advantage Over conventional sharkskin fabric of shade. On the other hand, the right to left the fabric woven with a single weft threadin C

2,258,874 3 cordance with the preferred form of this inven and-two twill weave, the fabrics being character tion. ized by the predominant dark diagonal visual The fabric of this invention, therefore, provides effect in one diagonal direction distinctive to a a wholly satisfactory simulated sharkskin fabric, conventional sharkskin fabric. which has unusual advantages in its relatively 4. A woven simulated sharkskin fabric con low cost of production and in its pleasing ap sisting essentially of light and dark yarns of the pearance, the latter being afforded in part by its same general color alternating in the warp and uniformity and evenness and in part by its unique a weft yarn of the same general Color as the color three-shade background Weave. of said warp yarns and of a shade intermediate I claim: 10 the two shades of said light and dark yarn, Said 1. A woven simulated sharkskin fabric con weft yarn being interwoven with said warp in sisting of two sets of yarn, one of said sets form successive adjacent picks in a two-and-tWotWill ing the warp and the other forming the weft, of weave, the fabric being characterized by the Said fabric, one of said sets consisting essen predominant dark diagonal visual effect in one tially of alternating light and dark yarns, and 15 diagonal direction distinctive to a conventional the other of said sets consisting essentially of sharkskin fabric. adjacent strands of yarn of the same general 5. A woven simulated sharkskin fabric con color as the color of one of said light and dark . sisting essentially of black and substantially yarns, and of a shade intermediate the shades white yarns alternating in the warp and a gray of said light and dark yarns, said warp and said 20 weft yarn interwoven with said warp in suc weft being interwoven in a two-and-two twill cessive adjacent picks in a two-and-two twill weave and the fabric being characterized by the weave, the fabric being characterized by the pre predominant dark diagonal visual effect in one dominant dark diagonal visual effect in one di diagonal direction distinctive to a conventional agonal direction distinctive to a conventional sharkskin fabric. 25 sharkskin fabric. 2. A woven simulated sharkskin fabric con 6. A woven simualted sharkskin fabric in ac sisting of two sets of yarn, one of said sets form cordance with the fabric claimed in claim 1, in ing the warp and the other forming the weft which the weave is a herringbone two-and-two of said fabric, One of Said sets consisting essen twill weave and the diagonal visual effect is in tially of black and substantially white yarns al 30 alternate diagonal directions in adjacent warp ternating consecutively, and the other of said wise panels of said fabric. sets consisting essentially of adjacent strands of 7. A woven simulated sharkskin fabric in ac gray yarn, said warp and weft being interwoven cordance with the fabric claimed in claim 1, in in a two-and-two twill weave and the fabric which design threads are interspersed through being characterized by the predominant dark out the warp of said fabric. diagonal visual effect in one diagonal direction 8. A woven simulated sharkskin fabric in ac distinctive to a conventional-sharkskin fabric. cordance with the fabric claimed in claim 1, in 3. A woven simulated sharkskin fabric con which plaid threads are interspersed throughout sisting essentially of light and dark yarns alter the weft of said fabric. . nating in the warp and a weft yarn of the same 4) 9. A woven simulated sharkskin fabric in ac general color as the color of one of said light cordance with the fabric claimed in claim 1, in and dark yarns and of a shade approximately which design threads are interspersed through half-way between the shades of said light and out the warp and weft of said fabric. dark yarns, said weft yarn being interwoven with said warp in successive adjacent picks in a two HENRY C. HASKELL.