Windsor-blue shiri with white stripe and Windsor knotted Spitalfields tie for the gentleman who's dressed for a picture. The photographer wears an ivory-colored shirt with a cherry-and-copper stripe tie

College men like HE fact that seventy-five per cent of all stripes in jackets, ties sold in America are bought by shirts and ties. Twomen seems to prove (a) that men are Fit To dopes, (b) that men are lazy and can't be Outstanding shirt bothered, (c) that the female is the domi­ favorite, however, nant sex or (d) that women have better is still the but­ taste. Be Tied ton-down collar- Looking back at the period when this attached variety latter canard was launched, it seems plain that the great ambition of men of that gen­ By Hetiiry L. Jackson eration was to look like a pallbearer. The .*•••• ladies decided to introduce color into the stupid lives of their mates and, boy, did they introduce it! You don't have to take an art Ties, like clothing, fall into one of four course to learn how to com­ classifications: town and business, country and campus, semisports and formal. bine colors in clothing, bu^ There are plenty of ties that go with a there are a few general rule town suit—rep, charvet, Macclesfield and Spitalfields silks and satin. If you're wise to help chart a safe cour you'll stick to neat, geometric patterns, solid colors, inconspicuous figures, grouped stripes and small checks. PHOTOGRAPHS FOR If you live in the country or occasionally COLLIER'S BY wangle yourself a week-end invitation, you RUDOLF HOFFMANN need a country tie. Foulards in printed pat­ terns, wools, tweeds, cashmeres and knit ties are safe bets. This is one place where you can go in for bright stripes, animal figures and bold patterns. If you go in for semi- sports clothes—flannels, tweeds and gabar­ dines—you'll also want the old country tie. If you're the country or college type, you'll probably go in for stripes, the evenly spaced sort that appear in regimental, club and school ties. TThey are also worn in town with informal types of suits such as tweed and gabardine. With a real town suit—worsted or sharkskin—fancy stripes fill the bill. You can't go far wrong with evening ties. A dinner jacket calls for black satin, ribbed grosgrain or barathea, and it's considered a neat touch to match the tie with the dirmer- jacket lapels. The white tie worn with a tail coat is generally of bird's-eye pattern piqu6 and may match shirt and waistcoat. When you talk about ties, you naturally have to go into the subject of shirts. Smooth- surfaced fabrics are preferable for town; rugged types for country. Checks, plaids and plain colors are worn both for town and country, but keep on the quiet side for town. Never let the shirt be darker in color than the suit or tie. Blue, tan, gray and white can be worn by practically any man, but green is dangerous, and pink and lavender down­ right treacherous. An easy way out is to have shirts and ties harmonize with the suit. It means that a single color is used for shirt, suit and tie in varying tones. For instance, you can get complete harmony with a dark brown suit, an ivory-colored shirt and a brown-and-tan tie. On the other hand, colors may contrast provided they do so agreebly. If you are in doubt limit yourself to a range of three colors. For example: Gray suit, blue shirt, maroon tie. Blue suit, gray shirt with blue stripe, blue tie. Brown suit, blue shirt with tan stripe, blue- and-brown tie. In truth, you have to brush up on your primary colors if you want to avoid making a fool of yourself. The three primary colors, red, yellow and blue, and the three second­ ary colors, orange, green and violet, combine to produce all the colors of the spectrum. Colors that combine to make another col^- can safely be used. Watch your combina­ tions or take the consequences. -k^rk

On her right, a white oxford shirt with brown stripe and a plaid tweed wool tie; on her left, a Scotch tartan shirt of cotton flannel, worn with maroon knit tie

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PRODUCED BY UNZ.ORG ELECTRONIC REPRODUCTION PROHIBITED Collier's for September 21, 1940 17 What Happened to France

By Andre' Maurois

TRANSLATED BT DENVER UNDLET

Defeeil completes Ihe work be­ gun by German propaganda. Sent on an official mission to England, the author sees dis­ trust between the Allies grow to hatred. On a ship crowded with child refugees and un­ der the protection of a British battleship, he learns with dismay of the battle of Oran

V. HOW FRANCE AND ENGLAND WERE SEPARATED ROM the beginning of the war in September, 1939, German propa­ Fganda set as its goal the separation of France from England. For eight months it pursued this aim with re­ markable adroitness and tenacity. Each day it repeated to the French that the English had dragged them into the war; that the English themselves were not fighting and, moreover, never had fought; that the English were fur­ nishing the machines and the French the cannon fodder. It distributed pictures showing a bath of blood toward which an English soldier was pushing a French soldier, and others representing English officers in Paris fondling half-naked women while a French soldier kept watch in the Maginot Line. In June, 1940, it had succeeded not only in sepa­ rating the two allied nations but in set­ ting one against the other. Why.' First of all because this propaganda was reinforced in the minds of many Frenchmen by strong and ancient prej­ udices. Before Germany, and for longer than Germany, England had been

France's hereditary enemy. The memory irOR THOMAS of peoples is dreadfully retentive. In Andre Maurois, historian and biographer who will deliver the Lowell Lectnres at Harvard this fall more than one French province, when I talked with confidence about British friendship, I encountered the vague, irri­ "Why should we.'" an English poli­ mism. Because she had always ended by This confusion of ideas, this incredi­ tating and persistent memory of the tician said to me. "The Germans can winning the wars in which she had en­ ble self-confidence, this refusal to look Hundred Years War. True, Delcasse do what they like in their own back gaged she had finally ceased even to reality in the face had produced the had reconciled the two countries in 1904 garden." think of the possibility of defeat and its effects that might have been foreseen. and established the Entente Cordiale; And another: terrible consequences. From the day of Having slumbered on her green lawns true, England had fought at our side "What you hold against us English is the Armistice, England had wanted noth­ from 1919 to 1939 England awoke after with perfect loyalty from 1914 to 1918; that we are not good Frenchmen." ing but to return to her well-kept lawns, Munich when it was too late, and she true, there were a million British dead That was not true. What I held her country houses, her sports, her came to the war with almost no army. reposing in the cemeteries of northern against the English at that time was that traditional way of life, and she turned That was the second element in the France; but after the war there had been they were not good Englishmen and that a deaf ear to all talk of armaments and success of German propaganda. "Just new misunderstandings between the two they did not realize that a rearmed Ger­ fighting. Her professors taught the look," the French were told, "the Eng­ nations. England, fearing France might many would be as great a menace to youth of the country that war was a sur­ lish have no soldiers; they will fight to Hn^row too strong, had most imprudently them as to us. vival of barbarism and could easily be the last Frenchman." That was far iavored the rearmament of Germany. For a long time I had felt esteem and eliminated. They did not tell their from being fair. England had the best "We English," Lord Tyrrell, ambas­ friendship for the English people. I pupils that unless force is used to sus­ navy in the world and an air force that sador to France, said to me about 1930, went through the war of 1914 as a liaison tain justice injustice will triumph. gave promise of being excellent. But it "we English made two mistakes after officer with the British army. This ex­ was true that on land, through lack of the war: we believed the French, be­ perience taught me that England carries TN ATTACHING so much importance men and arms, she could hold only a cause they had been victorious, had be­ out to the letter the agreements she has ••• to the idea of the League of Nations, tiny sector of the long line. come Germans; and we believed the signed. I knew too that if she was England was moved in part by a sincere "The English? But where are the Germans, through some mysterious capable, like all nations, of harsh action idealism but also by a false idea she English? There really are English sol­ transmutation, had become . English­ when her national life was at stake, at had formed of a League of Nations that diers in France?" many Frenchmen men." least there was no malice in her vio­ would overcome cannon with volleys of asked me ironically. lence. edifying discourse. Harold Nicolson, Even so, if Great Britain had acted TN 1936, at the time when the German It is inferiority complexes that make a member of the British Parliament, promptly after the declaration of war, •'• troops had reoccupied the Rhineland nations, like individuals, cruel. Eng­ told me he had received the following if she had quickly formed a number of in defiance of the Treaty of Locarno, land had no inferiority complex. Far letter from one of his constituents: new divisions, perhaps public opinion English public opinion, drunk with from it. Nine centuries of prosperity "I hope you are for the League of in France would have been reassured. pacifism, had refused to support us. had instilled in her an invincible opti­ Nations and no foreign entanglements." (Continued on page 51^

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