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Haryana & Punjab

Why Go? ...... 202 and Punjab comprise the Indian half of the erst- Around Chandigarh . . 209 while Punjab region that was tumultuously split when and Pakistan separated in 1947. Punjab (translating to ‘Five Haryana ...... 210 Waters’) is named after the fi ve rivers of this fertile ‘rice bowl’ and ‘bread basket’: the Beas, Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi and Sutlej. (Thanesar) ...... 210 -speaking, primarily Hindu Haryana split from South & West of Punjabi-speaking, primarily Sikh Punjab in 1966, but they ...... 210 still share a capital, Chandigarh. Apart from its prodigious Punjab ...... 211 manufacturing and agriculture industries, and the preco- cious Delhi satellite of , Haryana is best known for Anandpur Sahib . . . . . 211 the Hindu holy site of Kurukshetra. Sirhind ...... 211 Punjab is the home of the , butter chicken and bhangra ...... 211 (music/dance). Here, Sat Sri Akall replaces Namaste as the Northern Punjab. . . . .212 preferred greeting, and Sikh outnumber Hindu Amritsar ...... 212 temples as places of worship. Tourists and worshippers fl ock to Amritsar’s gleaming Golden Temple, while nationalists and India–Pakistan Border at Attari–Wagah . . . . 220 the curious join in the fun at Attari–Wagah’s entertaining border-closing ceremony on the India–Pakistan border. Pathankot ...... 220 When to Go Best Places to Eat Chandigarh °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm » Moti Mahal Deluxe (p218 ) 40/104 32/800 » Pomodoro (p 206 ) 24/600 20/68

» Brothers’ Dhaba (p 218 ) 16/400

» Bhoj (p 205 ) 0/32 8/200

Best Places to -20/-4 0 Stay J FDNOSAJJMAM » Aura Vaseela (p 205 ) Feb–Mar Colour- Mar Holla Mohalla Dec Amritsar » Grand Hotel (p 215 ) ful kites take to is a three-day throbs and the air to wel- celebration of swivels during the » Mrs Bhandari’s Guest come spring dur- the Khalsa (Sikh three-night Inter- House (p 215 ) ing the festival of brotherhood) at national Bhangra » Hotel Satyadeep (p 205 ) Basant. Anandpur Sahib. Festival.

MAIN POINTS OF Food ENTRY Punjab is a food-lover’s paradise. Not only is this region home Chandigarh Interna- to nutty, long-grain basmati rice, that quintessential accom- tional Airport paniment to spicy curries, it also nurtures much of India’s wheat thanks to the green revolution of the 1960s. Punjabi Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee cooks quickly embraced the cuisine of the Mugals and their International Airport renowned barbecue techniques using the ingenious and sim- (Amritsar) ple tandoor clay oven. Sizzling tandoori chicken is only beat- en for popularity by the world-famous butter chicken; but you should also savour the tandoori vegetables, the various dhal Fast Facts (lentil) dishes and the locally famous Amritsari fried fi sh. » Population: 25.3 million (Haryana), 27.7 million DON’T MISS (Punjab) Join the pilgrimage to Sikhism’s serene Golden Temple » Area: 44,212 sq km in Amritsar. Spend some time circumambulating the (Haryana), 50,362 sq km sacred lake, Amrit Sarovar, partaking prasad and gener- (Punjab) ally joining in. Sikhism prides itself on its open and inclu- » Capital: Chandigarh sive outlook to all religions and all peoples. Witness the » Main languages: Hindi gilded temple during an ethereal sunrise, moody sunset, (Haryana), Punjabi (Punjab) and when it is sparkling and illuminated at night. Cheer with pumped-up patriots as they watch Indian » Sleeping prices: $ below and Pakistani soldiers try to out-stomp, out-scowl and ₹1000, $$ ₹1000 to ₹5000, out-salute each other at Attari–Wagah’s fantastical $$$ above ₹5000 border-closing ceremony. When in Chandigarh, explore the whimsical world of Top Tips Nek Chand Fantasy Rock Garden. Reputed to be one of India’s top tourist attractions, this recycled wonder Hotels in Chandigarh and world will enthral the kids and may even provide a few Amritsar quickly fi ll during ideas for home projects! weekends and festivals (book ahead). Attari is a train station near the border at Wagah, but transport Top State Festivals from there to the border- » Kila Raipur Sports Festival (Rural Olympics; www.rural closing ceremony is virtually olympics.net; Feb, Kila Raipur, near Ludhiana, p 212 ) Three nonexistent, so organise days of rural ‘sports’: bullock-cart races, kabaddi, strong- transport from Amritsar. man contests, folk dancing and more. » Crafts Mela (1–15 Feb, Surajkund, p 210 ) Visit- Resources ing artisans showcase and sell colourful handicrafts among food stalls and cultural performances. » www.punjabgovt.nic.in » Holla Mohalla (Mar, Anandpur Sahib, p 211 ) Celebration of » www.haryana-online.com the Khalsa (Sikh brotherhood): kirtan (Sikh hymns), martial- » www.haryanatourism. arts demonstrations and re-enactments of past battles. com » Baba Sheikh Farid Aagman Purb Festival (Sep, Faridkot, » www.citcochandigarh. p212 ) Cultural performances to commemorate the Sufi saint. com » Heritage Festival (early Oct, Pinjore Gardens, » www.chandigarh.nic.in p 209 ) Three-day festival with music and dance perform- ances, handicraft and food stalls. » www.nrisabhapunjab.in » Harballabh Sangeet Sammelan (www.harballabh.org; late » www.nrizone.in Dec, Jalandhar, p 212 ) Four-day music festival (in existence for over 130 years) showcasing Indian classical instrumen- talists and vocalists. » Gita Jayanti (Nov/Dec, Kurukshetra, p 210 ) One week of cultural events celebrating the Bhagavad Gita’s anniversary.