South Africa Oct-Nov 2013

The Complete South Africa Experience 25 October – 16 November

Guided by Josh Engel All photos taken on this tour by the guide

For an arrival day, we packed a lot in! After picking up part of the group in the morning, we did what any tourist to Cape Town would do—headed straight for the sewage works. As usual, Strandfontein was full of birds. Pretty soon we were racking up good birds, including Levaillant’s Cisticola, Southern Pochard, Purple Swamphen, and Lesser Swamp-Warbler. After a return trip to the airport to pick up the last participant, we actually did do what many tourists do on their first day in Cape Town and made our way to the world-famous Kirstenbosch Botanic Gardens. Even in the afternoon it was full of birdsong. We saw many typical birds of the gardens, including the stunning Orange-breasted Sunbird, great views of a Southern Boubou, plus the resident Spotted Eagle-Owl family, complete with two downy chicks on their usual nesting rock.

For our first full day we hit the West Coast, north of Cape Town. Before even reaching the national park we had good views of a Black Harrier, one of the day’s main targets. Upon arriving at the park we had a flyby Southern Black Korhaan and many birds typical of the strandveld, including Bokmakierie and Gray-backed Cisticola. Leopard tortoises were everywhere along the road (we counted 31 as we drove through the park) and we hit the Seeberg Hide just as the tide was going out, netting close views of African Black Oystercatcher, White-fronted Plover, Eurasian Curlew, and many other shorebirds on the www.tropicalbirding.com 1 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 lagoon. A very small tern, probably a Little Tern, rare this far west, was roosting with Common Terns. We also came across a beautiful puff adder sunning itself on the road, before it slithered off into the bush.

White-throated Swallow (left) and the endemic Crowned Cormorant.

We continued north out of the park after a delicious and distinctive Cape Malay lunch of bobotie, lamb stew, and chicken curry. Sickle-winged Chat was easily found, but not so with Cape Long-billed Lark, which responded to tape but wouldn’t come into view. Our last birding stop of the day was at some salt pans along the Berg River, where besides the sought-after Chestnut-fronted Plovers we had great views of several gorgeous European Bee-eaters.

A day delayed, we met our pelagic trip with great anticipation. After a promising start with Bank Cormorants on the colony, we powered through the rough seas (stopping to see common dolphins that came to check out the boat), eventually tracking down a fishing trawler. We timed it well, arriving just before it pulled in its nets, with hundreds of birds in attendance. Most of the usual birds were in present, including Northern Giant Petrel, Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross, and a few lingering Cape Petrels. Heading back, a Black-bellied Storm-Petrel came past the boat and a newly arrived Sabine’s Gull flew by. Arriving back at the harbor, we were greeted by our final endemic cormorant, a pair of Crowned Cormorants among the more numerous Capes.

Next up was the world-famous Boulder’s Beach, home to Cape Town’s African Penguin colony. They didn’t disappoint, even singing (if it can be called such) loudly to an admiring crowd. Heading back to our hotel via the scenic route, a brief stop yielded our first Cape Sugarbirds of the trip, a beautiful pair that showed wonderfully.

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Pelagic and post-pelagic birding: Shy Albatross (left) and African Penguin.

We started the following morning with more sugarbirds under the low cloud layer, but Cape Rockjumper wouldn’t come out to play. We did get incredible looks at Cape Siskin as a consolation, along with Cape Rock Thrush and the rock-loving antelope klipspringer. After lunch at a country café, we worked out way through back roads across the Agulhas Plain towards Swellendam. Stanley Bustard was easy to find, but we had to put in a bit more effort for Agulhas Long-billed Lark and Karoo Korhaan. Eventually they both showed beautifully, as did several groups of Blue Cranes, and we also picked up a distant group of Cape Vultures near their breeding cliff.

We stayed in the plains the next morning, starting off by scoping a very impressive Stanley Bustard in full display (we hoped the female bustards were equally impressed). Before long we were watching the Agulhas form of Cape Clapper Larks displaying as well. A stop for a strutting Secretarybird also yielded point-blank looks at the diminutive Cloud Cisticola, while Black Harriers flew over the grasslands.

After a delicious farm breakfast, we continued east, picking up lunch to eat on the balcony of our next hotel. This was no accident—the feeders, just feet away, were loaded with new birds, including Swee Waxbill, Forest Canary, and, best of all, the incredible Knysna Turaco. After enjoying the feeders, we visited a nearby wetlands to look for rails. A Red-chested Flufftail responded strongly to our playback, but the only glimpse we got was when it flew across the trail! There were also many warblers calling from the reeds, and we got excellent views of a Little Rush Warbler. Our day ended with one of our best meals of the trip, an extraordinary dinner in an unassuming local restaurant that even featured a brilliant singing performance by the chef!

We had a full day to enjoy the Wilderness area. Before breakfast, we headed to the coastal scrub to look for several skulking endemics. Southern Tchagra showed brilliantly, even hopping around on the ground at the edge of the parking lot. Knysna Warbler teased us, singing incessantly as close range, but only some people got good views. Knysna Woodpecker was totally uncooperative, baiting us with its typically infrequent calls and never coming to view. On the way back to the hotel we stopped along the Kaaimans River, where a beautiful Half-collared Kingfisher seemed to be waiting for our arrival.

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Feeder birds in Wilderness: Knysna Turaco (left) and Cape White-eye.

We returned to the hotel for breakfast with the birds. The feeders were loaded. Knysna Turacos were again the stars of the show, but we also added Gray Sunbird, Chorister Robin-Chat, Lemon Dove, Red- necked Francolin, plus Olive Bush-Shrike nearby. We had a nice, if quiet, walk in the forest after breakfast, but returned again in the late afternoon. We were again teased by a Knysna Woodpecker that remained deep in the forest, but we picked up other forest birds including Gray Cuckooshrike and Green Wood-hoopoe. Our plans to try for African Wood-Owl were scuttled by rain, so we went for dinner at a local restaurant instead.

After a final breakfast with turacos, we headed north through Outshoorn (stopping for ostrich-themed souvenirs) to the Swartberg Pass. It was cold, windy, and drizzly when we arrived. Bird activity picked up as the wind settled and the temperature climbed (slightly!), but no matter how hard we tried, Cape Rockjumper wouldn’t come out. As consolation prizes we had excellent looks at Victorin’s Warbler, Sentinal Rock-Thrush, and Ground Woodpecker. We stopped at a café in Prince Albert for some delicious deserts and a nice chat with the locals before finishing our day in the beautiful surroundings of Karoo National Park.

We had a full day to enjoy the park’s beautiful scenery and abundant birds. Fortunately birds were active despite the unseasonal chill in the air. Over the course of the morning we picked up many of the sought-after Karoo endemics, including Layard’s Tit-Babbler, Fairy Flycatcher, African Rock Pipit, and Black-headed Canary. Our afternoon drive was quiet for birds, but we did pick up Rufous-eared Warbler and a few others, plus had great views of Cape mountain zebra and other Karoo mammals. We finished the day with a chilly night drive, which revealed two Spotted Eagle Owls and a couple of black-backed jackals.

We took a final pre-breakfast drive in the national park before departing. It was generally pretty quiet, but we had nice views of Karoo Long-billed Lark, Pale Chanting Goshawk, and a few other Karoo endemics. We left to head for a different part of the Karoo, the Tanqua Karoo. The drive in was punctuated with birding stops, with great views of Karoo Lark and Karoo Eremomela and our first Lark- like Bunting. It was surprisingly wet for this time of year, with frequent roadside puddles and green vegetation. We crossed the beautiful Katbakkies Pass and ended up in our beautiful, off-the-grid lodge for the evening. We took a night drive after dinner to enjoy the spectacularly starry sky, also finding a Spotted Eagle Owl along the way.

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Two very different South African endemics: Cape Mountain Zebra and Cape Grassbird.

We had a good amount of time for birding before our flight to Durban. Displaying Cape Clapper Larks greeted us when we woke up. Heading back over the pass, we stopped at the bottom where we picked up a beautiful group of Namaqua Sandgrouse, but a female Black-eared Sparrowlark was not cooperative and was only seen by some. Amazingly, there were not Gray-backed Sparrowlarks to be found anywhere. We finally picked up Verreaux’s Eagle as we left the Karoo. We made one last attempt for Cape Rockjumper at Bain’s Kloof Pass on our way to the airport, but again we were foiled. After our flight to Durban, we made it late but safe and sound to our hotel at the foot of the Drakensberg Mountains in KwaZulu Natal.

Today was a big day as we piled into a 4x4 and headed right up the mountains into Lesotho via the famously scenic Sani Pass. The weather could not have been better, a big change from the Karoo, and the birds likewise cooperated. Things got off to a fast start, with very cooperative Red-necked Wryneck, Bush Blackcap, and Barratt’s Warbler. Our breakfast stop was well-placed—Gurney’s Sugarbird was never out of view while we ate. Continuing up, we quickly found a female Drakensberg Rockjumper, followed by males going to the nest by the roadside. They even posed beautifully for photos. Why didn’t its Cape cousin behave so cooperatively?

Two uniquely South African highlights from Sani Pass: Bush Blackcap (left) and Drakensberg Rockjumper. www.tropicalbirding.com 5 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013

There were many photogenic creatures around the highest pub in Africa to distract us from our Maluti beers: for example there were the OMG CUTE baby Sloggett’s Rats (left) and a male Sentinal Rock Thrush.

We passed into Lesotho, quickly finding Cape Vulture and the spectacular Lammergeier. We would have several great views of Lammergeier during the day, including one running on the ground before taking off at close range. The localized Mountain Pipit showed up right on cue, but we were soon distracted by a Jackal Buzzard trying to chase a migrant Steppe Buzzard out of its territory. We continued further into Lesotho, passing villages of stone huts and a Lanner Falcon dining on a Sickle-winged Chat, finally picking up the Southern Gray Tit that we couldn’t find in the Cape. Only Cindy spotted the Gray-winged Francolin that responded far across the valley, then she did it again on the way down the mountain, this time right at the roadside for most of the vehicle to see. Before heading back down the pass we popped into Africa’s highest pub for a cold beer, where Drakensberg Rockjumpers, Sentinal Rock-Thrushes, and Sloggett’s ice rats put on a great show. After a highly successful and totally exhausting day, we finished it off with locally caught rainbow trout in a restaurant in Underberg.

It was time to continue our eastward journey. We started the morning at Marutswa Forest, where a swift flock over the parking lot included a Horus Swift among the more common species. Walking into the forest, we picked up a few forest species, including the highly sought Orange Ground-Thrush. A Narina Trogon called not far off, but it couldn’t be coaxed out. Leaving the forest, we passed through Howick, stopping in at the falls for lunch, and continued on to Karkloof to look for cranes. After much searching, we found a Gray Crowned Crane at close range. But we still wanted that Wattled. Just as we were ready to give up, Bobbi shouted “stop!” from the backseat, and sure enough a pair of the rare Wattled Cranes were calmly foraging in a wet ravine nearby. We had beautiful views before it was time to continue on to our hotel in Eshowe (but not before helping the Austrian birding group that we would run into frequently get onto the cranes).

We started our Eshowe morning in the famous Dlinza Forest. After some effort (and a little help from the aforementioned Austrians) we got onto both of the key Dlinza species, two very rare forest birds of east and southeast Africa, Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon and Spotted Ground Thrush. A pair of Purple- crested Turacos was building a nest next to the canopy tower. Blue Duikers provided much entertainment and much photographic difficulty, but the real surprise was when some angry-sounding birds led us straight to an African Wood-Owl. It is a real treat to see wood-owls during the day. After www.tropicalbirding.com 6 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 breakfast we headed for the coast at Mtunzini. We soon found Palm-nut Vulture as well as our first Red-capped Robin-Chat. We also made a stop by the beach to stick our feet in the Indian Ocean. Birds were few at the beach, but we did have some fun watching a group of boaters try to pull their boat back through the deep sand of the dunes to the parking lot. We spent the late afternoon relaxing on the hotel grounds, drinking our rum and listening to Purple-crested Turacos calling.

We did a short pre-breakfast stint back at Dlinza the following morning, quickly finding a singing Spotted Ground Thrush. Cindy spotted a bird we had tried much in vain for previously, and we all had nice looks at the pair of Narina Trogons. After breakfast we made our way to St. Lucia, not before stopping in at Thula Pan in Richard’s Bay, only to be disappointed by the conditions there. We did pick up a beautiful pair of Giant Kingfishers nearby, however.

Two highlights from Dlinza Forest: the tiny tiny Blue Duiker (left) and the canopy-dwelling Gray Cuckooshrike.

We ate lunch at the St. Lucia estuary, enjoying the Yellow and Thick-billed Weaver show along with many waterbirds and our first crocodile. After lunch we picked up the uncommon Southern Brown- throated Weaver. We tried a bit of forest birding on a dreary afternoon, finding Rudd’s Apalis but little else.

We had a final morning birding St. Lucia before heading back inland. Our local guide met us in the morning and took us to a nearby forest, where we quickly racked up the areas specialties, including Eastern Nicator, Woodward’s Batis, Green Malkoha, Livingstone’s Turaco, and others. Best of all was the incredible looks we got at the well-named Gorgeous Bush-Shrike. After being foiled in our search for Green Twinspot, we carried on to a wetlands where we found our first Hamerkop along with other waterbird.

We set off north to our lodge near Mkuze Game Reserve. We started getting into characteristic bushveld birds quickly as well as finding several new mammals, including nyala, impala, and warthog. We took a short drive through the bush from the lodge, finding a very vocal Wahlberg’s Eagle, Lesser Honeyguide, and several other new species. Fiery-necked Nightjar sang as we sat down for our fireside dinner.

We took a short drive before breakfast to look for one of the area’s top birds, and it didn’t take us long to find a pair of the beautiful and local Pink-throated Twinspot, with an African Firefinch keeping them company. After saying goodbye to our hosts and the incredible Village Weaver colony at the car park, www.tropicalbirding.com 7 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 we set off for Mkuze. Nyala were common when we arrived, and Glenn spotted the diminutive suni, an antelope special to the area. Kumasinga Hide was very productive. We enjoyed watching Red-billed Oxpeckers ride down to the waterhole on the backs of warthogs, drop down to take a drink, then get back on the pigs for the ride away. A spectacular male Eastern Paradise-Whydah came to drink along with a pair of Variable Indigobirds. We watched warthogs mudbathing along the water’s edge, and a water monitor slinked down and got right in the hole. An African Cuckoo also paid a visit to the trees adjacent to the water. On the drive out a Neergaard’s Sunbird sang near the car, but despite trying to bring it closer with playback it disappeared before we could get a look. Our final new bird for Mkuze was a Red-fronted Tinkerbird that showed well while we waited for our burgers and fries to be served.

We spent the afternoon driving to Wakkerstroom, steadily climbing into the high elevation grasslands surrounding the town. We started birding in earnest the next morning, though we were at first foiled by dense fog. We changed tacks and dropped in elevation, eventually getting ourselves below the fog, where we found the specialty of the lower elevation plains, White-bellied (Barrow’s) Korhaan. After breakfast we returned to the field, birding while the fog moved in and out. Along the road we bumped into Wakkerstroom’s other famous bustard, the Blue Korhaan. We carefully walked pastures, eventually getting sterling views of the very rare Rudd’s Lark, but scanning the nearby pan failed to turn up the White-backed Duck seen there earlier in the day. Evening birding was again disrupted by dense fog, so we birded the peaceful wetlands near town, finding our first African Reed-Warbler and South African Cliff Swallows of the trip, along with large numbers of Purple Swamphens. We finished the day with a delicious braai cooked by our host at the B&B.

Two Wakkerstroom grassland highlights: a wide-eyed Meerkat family, equally fascinated by us, and a Long-tailed Widowbirds, one of the characteristic birds of eastern South Africa’s grasslands.

Fog was still present the next morning when we tried for Yellow-breasted Pipits. We looked at countless African Pipits before the fog rolled in for good (after a Red-chested Sparrowhawk gave us a nice flyby), and we returned to our beautiful B&B for breakfast. After breakfast we set off for the great Kruger Park. Our mammals started early though—on our way out of Wakkerstroom we came across an incredibly cooperative colony of meerkats, blatantly showing off their cuteness as they caught some morning warmth.

A Wimpy bathroom stop punctuated the long drive to the park, but once we arrived new birds and mammals came fast and furious. Birds included Magpie and White-crowned Shrikes, Dark Chanting www.tropicalbirding.com 8 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Goshawk, Martial Eagle, and incredible Tawny Eagles playing with sticks on the ground, and a pair of Brown-headed Parrots at a nest hole. Mammals were, of course, abundant. Best were the two male spotted hyenas that put on an incredible performance for us, walking right along the dirt road calling to each other and posing for photos. We could practically smell their breath they were so close. Along with the usual assortment of antelope, we saw many diminutive dwarf mongoose and many gigantic elephants, including a newborn calf. We had to race to make it to camp, but not before a stop to see a lion cub sticking its head out of the grass. Spotlighting in camp on our walk back to our rondavels after dinner we found an incredibly tame (and very cuddly looking) thick-tailed bushbaby.

A couple of non-bird favorites from Kruger: a nursing elephant and a flap-necked chameleon.

We headed out early for our first morning in Kruger to the Lake Panic Bird Hide. Birds were abundant and highly photographable. Some of the highlights were Goliath Heron, Black Crake, Darter, a nearly pettable Gray Heron, and nice comparisons of Lesser Masked and Village Weavers. We returned for breakfast to find the fig trees at the restaurant in fruit and chock full of birds. We had incredible looks at African Green Pigeon, Red-faced Mousebirds, and many other species taking advantage of the temporary resource. We spent most of the rest of the day driving to our next camp in the grasslands of the central part of the park. It was a fairly slow drive for wildlife, but we did pick up several new birds and had a close encounter with two bull elephants. Our lunch stop was made especially exciting by the vervet monkeys that were clearly keen on sharing our meals with us, but we effectively kept them away (the next table over was not so fortunate, however). We did enjoy the many tame birds in the picnic site as well, including African Mourning Dove and breeding Southern Yellow-billed Hornbills. Arriving at our new camp, we took a rest, ate dinner (which was interrupted by an African Scops Owl), and went out on the camp’s night drive. We did well with mammals, with great looks at a gorgeous African civet,long, close looks at a stunning serval, and a group of lesser bushbabies hopping between trees. The bird highlight was the difficult Southern White-faced Scops Owl.

We then had a full day to explore in the central part of the park, where the typical bushveld is interrupted by expanses of grassland. On the way to the picnic site for breakfast, we picked up a few new birds, including Kori Bustard, the world’s heaviest flier. A Cape Vulture was perched with a group of the more numerous White-backed Vultures. Our breakfast stop was productive for far more than filling our bellies—here we picked up Gray-headed Bushshrike, Levaillant’s Cuckoo, Hooded Vulture, and

www.tropicalbirding.com 9 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Mocking Cliff-Chat while we enjoyed the beautiful view. On the way back we found an area full of vultures, indicating there was a recent kill nearby, but no amount of searching revealed it, so we moved on. We also ran into our Austrian friends, who gave us advice on where one of our camp’s resident scops-owls was spending its day.

Returning to camp, we went to check on the owl. While searching, Glenn spotted a roosting Wahlberg’s epauletted fruit bat, a female with a large baby clinging to her underside. Then Glyn spotted the scops- owl, roosting in the open right next to a cabin. It was hot out, so we ate lunch and retired to our rooms, where some people enjoyed watching the make-shift feeder we set up outside. An evening drive was fairly uneventful, save for two on-the-road white rhinos and wonderful looks at a male Pallid Harrier, and we enjoyed trying for the perfect sunset photo on the way back to camp.

And a couple of favorite birds from Kruger: Black-bellied Bustard (left) and Bronze-winged Courser. Not pictured: adorable baby coursers that were with the pictured female.

We finally had to say goodbye to Kruger, so we headed west towards the gate. We finally found our first Lappet-faced Vulture on the way out and picked up White-throated Robin-Chat while we ate breakfast at the gate. We took a detour upon leaving the park to visit the world-famous Blyde’s River Canyon, often said to be the world’s third-largest and Africa’s second-largest canyon. Birds were not too active in the mid-day heat as we enjoyed the scenery, but we did find our only Lazy Cisticola of the trip at a stop at Bourke’s Luck Potholes, one of the interesting rock formations at the canyon.

Finishing up our scenic detour, we detoured again to visit Abel Erasmus Pass. Unfortunately, the pass’s famous Taita Falcons have become much less regular in recent years and seem to not be nesting in the area any more. Indeed, we couldn’t find any, but we did pick up the resident pair of Mountain Wagtails. We finally embarked on the long drive to Polokwane, arriving after dark for what turned out to be a rather “interesting” dinner.

We ended up have a rather short time for birding at Polokwane Game Reserve due to an emergency hotel switch. Overnight rains also made getting around the dirt roads of the reserve difficult (indeed, I had to talk the guard into letting us in at all), limiting our access. We did find several of the Kalahari endemics typical of this reserve, including Ashy Tit, a beautiful male Shaft-tailed Whydah, and, for Cindy, Violet-eared Waxbill.

www.tropicalbirding.com 10 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Returning for breakfast to the hotel (where unfortunately no birds had yet found our bird seed), we packed up and headed to our last hotel of the trip in Johannesburg. We took a well-deserved rest for the afternoon, catching up on various tasks and enjoying the hotel grounds (and the hotel’s wi-fi!). We had an appropriately South African braai for dinner, complete with boerwors, pap, and other typical foods.

For our last day in the country, we traded birding for tourism, visiting the Maropeng Museum at the Cradle of Humankind. It was an illuminating visit, learning about the anthropological work surrounding the discoveries of ancient hominid bones in the area. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped for lunch at the renown Carnivore restaurant, where we got to sample foods like zebra and impala (along with typically delicious South African beef and salads). It was finally time for the whirlwind tour to come to an end, nearly 500 birds and over 60 mammals later.

Common bushveld birds: Black-backed Puffback (left) and Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill.

Trip List. 482 species total. Taxonomy follows the Clements checklist (Clements, J.F., 2007, The Clements Checklist of Birds of the World, 6th Ed. Cornell University Press. Includes updates through version 6.8, 2013). The Clements names often differ from names in popular usage in South Africa, even for South African endemics; those names are indicated in parentheses. H=heard only (11 species), E=Southern African endemic. Global threatened status from Birdlife International: EN=Endangered, VU=Vulnerable, NT=Near-threatened.

Ostrich - Struthio camelus White-faced Whistling-Duck - Dendrocygna viduata Comb Duck - Sarkidiornis melanotos Egyptian Goose - Alopochen aegyptiaca South African Shelduck - Tadorna cana (E) Spur-winged Goose - Plectropterus gambensis African Black Duck - Anas sparsa A bit of a surprise was one on the Crocodile River along the southern border of Kruger National Park. Yellow-billed Duck - Anas undulate Mallard – Anas platyrhynchos Cape Shoveler - Anas smithii (E) Red-billed Duck - Anas erythrorhyncha

www.tropicalbirding.com 11 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Hottentot Teal - Anas hottentota Cape Teal - Anas capensis Southern Pochard - Netta erythrophthalma Helmeted Guineafowl - Numida meleagris Crested Guineafowl - Guttera pucherani We had many good views of this beautiful gamebird in KwaZulu Natal. Crested Francolin - Francolinus sephaena Gray-winged Francolin - Francolinus africanus (E) After struggling mightily to see a singing bird across a valley in Lesotho, Cindy spotted one right on the roadside on our way back down Sani Pass. Cape Francolin - Francolinus capensis (E) Natal Francolin - Francolinus natalensis (E) Red-necked Francolin - Francolinus afer We had great views in our hotel garden in Wilderness, plus another in the nearby national park. Swainson's Francolin - Francolinus swainsonii Common Quail - Coturnix coturnix (H) Little Grebe - Tachybaptus ruficollis Great Crested Grebe - Podiceps cristatus Eared Grebe - Podiceps nigricollis Greater Flamingo - Phoenicopterus roseus Lesser Flamingo - Phoenicopterus minor Jackass Penguin - Spheniscus demersus (E, VU) Seeing these penguins at sea, like we did on the pelagic, is always special, but nothing beats the close-up views at the colony in Simontown. (Atlantic) Yellow-nosed Albatross - Thalassarche chlororhynchos (EN) White-capped (Shy) Albatross - Thalassarche cauta (NT) Black-browed Albatross - Thalassarche melanophris (NT) Northern Giant-Petrel - Macronectes halli (NT) Cape Petrel - Daption capense We were very pleased to see a few of these pelagic beauties so late in the season, when they are hit-or-miss. White-chinned Petrel - Procellaria aequinoctialis Great Shearwater - Puffinus gravis Sooty Shearwater - Puffinus griseus Wilson's Storm-Petrel - Oceanites oceanicus Black-bellied Storm-Petrel - Fregetta tropica We got lucky with a lone individual of this passage migrant on our way back to terra firma from the trawler grounds. Woolly-necked Stork - Ciconia episcopus White Stork - Ciconia ciconia Saddle-billed Stork - Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis Nice views of adults and juveniles of this local species in Kruger. Marabou Stork - Leptoptilos crumenifer Yellow-billed Stork - Mycteria ibis

www.tropicalbirding.com 12 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Cape Gannet - Morus capensis (E, VU) Great Cormorant - Phalacrocorax carbo Cape Cormorant - Phalacrocorax capensis (E, NT) Bank Cormorant - Phalacrocorax neglectus (E, VU) Long-tailed Cormorant - Phalacrocorax africanus Crowned Cormorant - Phalacrocorax coronatus (E, NT) African Darter - Anhinga rufa Great White Pelican - Pelecanus onocrotalus Pink-backed Pelican - Pelecanus rufescens Hamerkop - Scopus umbretta Gray Heron - Ardea cinerea Black-headed Heron - Ardea melanocephala Goliath Heron - Ardea goliath Purple Heron - Ardea purpurea Great Egret - Ardea alba Intermediate Egret - Mesophoyx intermedia Little Egret - Egretta garzetta Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis Squacco Heron - Ardeola ralloides Striated Heron - Butorides striata Black-crowned Night-Heron - Nycticorax nycticorax Glossy Ibis - Plegadis falcinellus Sacred Ibis - Threskiornis aethiopicus Bald Ibis - Geronticus calvus (E, VU) Hadada Ibis - Bostrychia hagedash African Spoonbill - Platalea alba Secretary-bird - Sagittarius serpentarius This wonderful, characteristic African bird was seen many times, first in the Cape. Osprey - Pandion haliaetus Black-shouldered Kite - Elanus caeruleus Palm-nut Vulture - Gypohierax angolensis Sitting atop palms (what else?) in Mtunzini, the stronghold for the species in South Africa. Lammergeier - Gypaetus barbatus It’s always a treat to see this high-altitude specialist, but our views of birds flying and on the ground were something special. White-headed Vulture - Trigonoceps occipitalis (VU) Lappet-faced Vulture - Torgos tracheliotus (VU) We completed the impressive vulture sweep with this species on our way out of Kruger. Hooded Vulture - Necrosyrtes monachus (EN) White-backed Vulture - Gyps africanus (EN) Cape Griffon (Vulture) - Gyps coprotheres (E, VU) This endemic vulture was first seen in the distance around its only remaining breeding colony in the Western Cape, but we saw it better at Sani Pass and in Kruger. Bateleur - Terathopius ecaudatus (NT) www.tropicalbirding.com 13 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Black-breasted Snake-Eagle - Circaetus pectoralis Brown Snake-Eagle - Circaetus cinereus Martial Eagle - Polemaetus bellicosus (VU) We had some great views of this species, one of the world’s great raptors, in Kruger and elsewhere. Long-crested Eagle - Lophaetus occipitalis Wahlberg's Eagle - Hieraaetus wahlbergi Booted Eagle - Hieraaetus pennatus Tawny Eagle - Aquila rapax Verreaux's Eagle - Aquila verreauxii After much scanning of the skies in the Karoo, we finally caught up with it just as we were leaving the arid west of the country. African Hawk-Eagle - Aquila spilogaster Dark Chanting-Goshawk - Melierax metabates Pale Chanting-Goshawk - Melierax canorus (E) African Marsh-Harrier - Circus ranivorus Black Harrier - Circus maurus (E, VU) Pallid Harrier - Circus macrourus (NT) Never an easy one to find in South Africa, we had very good views of a male in Kruger. African Goshawk - Accipiter tachiro Little Sparrowhawk - Accipiter minullus Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk - Accipiter rufiventris Far from any trees, we had one fly in and land on a rock while searching for Yellow-breasted Pipit near Wakkerstroom. Black (Yellow-billed) Kite - Milvus migrans African Fish-Eagle - Haliaeetus vocifer Common (Steppe) Buzzard - Buteo buteo Mountain (Forest) Buzzard - Buteo oreophilus Jackal Buzzard - Buteo rufofuscus (E) Kori Bustard - Ardeotis kori (NT) Stanley (Denham’s) Bustard - Neotis denhami (NT) Many good views, including an incredible displaying male in Bontebok National Park. White-bellied (Barrow’s) Bustard (Korhaan)- Eupodotis senegalensis When we were fogged out at the higher elevations in Wakkerstroom, we dropped down and successfully searched for these difficult korhaans. This subspecies—endemic to South Africa—is often split off as its own species, Barrow’s Korhaan. Blue Bustard (Korhaan) - Eupodotis caerulescens (E, NT) Great views of this highland endemic in Wakkerstroom. Karoo Bustard - Eupodotis vigorsii (E) Red-crested Bustard - Eupodotis ruficrista (E) One nearly flew into the vehicle in response to tape in Kruger. Black Bustard (Southern Black Korhaan)- Eupodotis afra (E, VU) We had a fun experience playing hide-and-seek with a singing male as we crossed the Cederberg Mountains. Black-bellied Bustard - Lissotis melanogaster www.tropicalbirding.com 14 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 African Rail - Rallus caerulescens (H) Black Crake - Amaurornis flavirostra Purple Swamphen - Porphyrio porphyrio Eurasian Moorhen - Gallinula chloropus Red-knobbed Coot - Fulica cristata Buff-spotted Flufftail - Sarothrura elegans (H) The haunting song was heard through the rain at the Big Tree in Woodinville Forest. Red-chested Flufftail - Sarothrura rufa We got brief views of this super-skulker as it flew across the boardwalk in Wilderness National Park after having it taunt us by singing incessantly at very close range, but just out of view for many minutes. Gray Crowned-Crane - Balearica regulorum (EN) Our first views of this magnificent bird were in the crane reserve at Karkloof while looking for Wattled Crane. Blue Crane - Anthropoides paradiseus (VU) We had many good views of South Africa’s national bird, including a dancing bird amidst a flock on the Agulhas Plain. Wattled Crane - Bugeranus carunculatus (VU) One of South Africa’s rarest birds, we had stunning 11th hour looks in the Karkloof after Bobbi made one of the spots of the trip. Water Thick-knee - Burhinus vermiculatus Spotted Thick-knee - Burhinus capensis Black-winged Stilt - Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet - Recurvirostra avosetta African (Black) Oystercatcher - Haematopus moquini (E, NT) Black-bellied Plover - Pluvialis squatarola Blacksmith Plover - Vanellus armatus Crowned Lapwing - Vanellus coronatus Wattled Lapwing - Vanellus senegallus Kittlitz's Plover - Charadrius pecuarius Common Ringed Plover - Charadrius hiaticula Three-banded Plover - Charadrius tricollaris White-fronted Plover - Charadrius marginatus Chestnut-banded Plover - Charadrius pallidus (NT) Thanks to a tip from another tour group, we were able to access private property where we had great views of this local but widespread species. African Jacana - Actophilornis africanus Common Sandpiper - Actitis hypoleucos Common Greenshank - Tringa nebularia Wood Sandpiper - Tringa glareola Whimbrel - Numenius phaeopus Eurasian Curlew - Numenius arquata (NT) We got lucky with the timing of the tide in West Coast National Park and picked up all of the likely shorebird possibilities. Bar-tailed Godwit - Limosa lapponica www.tropicalbirding.com 15 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Red Knot - Calidris canutus Ruff - Calidris pugnax Curlew Sandpiper - Calidris ferruginea Sanderling - Calidris alba Little Stint - Calidris minuta Bronze-winged Courser - Rhinoptilus chalcopterus The guide’s bird-of-the-trip, we found two different families of this tricky species in the southern part of Kruger. Both families consisted of mom, dad, and two partly-grown juveniles. Collared Pratincole - Glareola pratincola Brown (Subantarctic) Skua - Stercorarius antarcticus Parasitic Jaeger - Stercorarius parasiticus Sabine's Gull - Xema sabini Some recently arrived migrants passed by our boat on the pelagic. Gray-hooded Gull - Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus Hartlaub's Gull - Chroicocephalus hartlaubii (E) Kelp Gull - Larus dominicanus Caspian Tern - Hydroprogne caspia Whiskered Tern - Chlidonias hybrida Common Tern - Sterna hirundo Great Crested Tern - Thalasseus bergii Sandwich Tern - Thalasseus sandvicensis Small tern sp. - Sterninae sp. A very small tern, either Damara or Little, was seen in West Coast National Park but our views were inconclusive. Namaqua Sandgrouse - Pterocles namaqua (E) Great views of a small flock that came to drink by the roadside in the Tanqua Karoo. Rock Pigeon - Columba livia Speckled Pigeon - Columba guinea Rameron Pigeon - Columba arquatrix Delegorgue's Pigeon - Columba delegorguei After hearing one, a participant on a Birdlife Switzerland tour very impressively picked out a pair in a tree a mile away while we shared the canopy tower at Dlinza Forest. We got decent scope views of this difficult bird, even though none of us could see it through our bins! Lemon Dove - Columba larvata A difficult-to-see bird made easy thanks to the feeding station at our hotel in Wilderness. Mourning Collared-Dove - Streptopelia decipiens Red-eyed Dove - Streptopelia semitorquata Ring-necked (Cape Turtle) Dove - Streptopelia capicola Laughing Dove - Streptopelia senegalensis Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove - Turtur chalcospilos Tambourine Dove - Turtur tympanistria Namaqua Dove - Oena capensis African Green-Pigeon - Treron calvus Some fruiting fig trees along the river in Skukuza were loaded with this beautiful pigeon. Livingstone's Turaco - Tauraco livingstonii www.tropicalbirding.com 16 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 We got nice views of this turaco in St. Lucia. Knysna Turaco - Tauraco corythaix (E) A perennial tour highlight is coming face-to-face with this stunning bird in the hotel garden in Wilderness. Purple-crested Turaco - Tauraco porphyreolophus A pair was nesting in the tree next to the canopy tower in Dlinza Forest, but this didn’t make them easy to see! We did get good views eventually. Gray Go-away-bird - Corythaixoides concolor Pied (Jacobin) Cuckoo - Clamator jacobinus Levaillant's Cuckoo - Clamator levaillantii Red-chested Cuckoo - Cuculus solitarius We were fortunate to find one soaking in the early morning sun on a power line as we headed towards Sani Pass. Black Cuckoo - Cuculus clamosus We got good views just about the first time we tried, in Wilderness National Park. African Cuckoo - Cuculus gularis Klaas's Cuckoo - Chrysococcyx klaas African Emerald Cuckoo - Chrysococcyx cupreus (H) No amount of trying could get one of these forest canopy dwellers to come into view. Dideric Cuckoo - Chrysococcyx caprius Yellowbill - Ceuthmochares aereus White-browed (Burchell’s) Coucal - Centropus superciliosus Burchell’s Coucal—a Southern African endemic—is often split from the widespread White-browed Coucal. African Scops-Owl - Otus senegalensis Southern White-faced Owl - Ptilopsis granti We got surprising and excellent views on our night drive in Kruger. Spotted Eagle-Owl - Bubo africanus Pearl-spotted Owlet - Glaucidium perlatum African Wood-Owl - Strix woodfordii A surprising find during the day when we tracked down some scolding birds in Dlinza Forest. Fiery-necked Nightjar - Caprimulgus pectoralis Nightjars were nearly absent during our attempts, but we did finally see Fiery-necked on our night drive in Kruger. Alpine Swift - Apus melba African (Black) Swift - Apus barbatus Little Swift - Apus affinis Horus Swift - Apus horus We had very nice views of this difficult-to-find swift as we ascended Sani Pass. Another was with a large swift flock at Marutswa Forest. White-rumped Swift - Apus caffer African Palm-Swift - Cypsiurus parvus Speckled Mousebird - Colius striatus White-backed Mousebird - Colius colius (E) Red-faced Mousebird - Urocolius indicus

www.tropicalbirding.com 17 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Narina Trogon - Apaloderma narina After several attempts at singing birds, we caught up with a pair in Dlinza Forest. Half-collared Kingfisher – Alcedo semitorquata Always a tricky one to catch up with, we had beautiful views along the Kaaimans River near Wilderness. Malachite Kingfisher - Corythornis cristatus African Pygmy-Kingfisher - Ispidina picta Very brief looks at this migrant kingfisher as it flew across a dry stream bed we were standing in in Abumadi Game Reserve. Woodland Kingfisher - Halcyon senegalensis Brown-hooded Kingfisher - Halcyon albiventris Striped Kingfisher - Halcyon chelicuti Giant Kingfisher - Megaceryle maximus Pied Kingfisher - Ceryle rudis White-fronted Bee-eater - Merops bullockoides Little Bee-eater - Merops pusillus European Bee-eater - Merops apiaster Lilac-breasted Roller - Coracias caudatus Rufous-crowned (Purple) Roller - Coracias naevius Eurasian (African) Hoopoe - Upupa epops (africanus) Green Woodhoopoe - Phoeniculus purpureus Common Scimitar-bill - Rhinopomastus cyanomelas Southern Red-billed Hornbill - Tockus rufirostris Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill - Tockus leucomelas (E) Crowned Hornbill - Tockus alboterminatus African Gray Hornbill - Tockus nasutus Trumpeter Hornbill - Ceratogymna bucinator Crested Barbet - Trachyphonus vaillantii White-eared Barbet - Stactolaema leucotis Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird - Pogoniulus bilineatus Red-fronted Tinkerbird - Pogoniulus pusillus Scope views of one while we waited for our burgers in Mkuze Game Reserve. (Acacia) Pied Barbet - Tricholaema leucomelas (E) Black-collared Barbet - Lybius torquatus Wahlberg's Honeyguide - Prodotiscus regulus (H) Lesser Honeyguide - Indicator minor Nice views in Abumadi. Scaly-throated Honeyguide - Indicator variegatus After unsuccessfully trying to track down a singing bird in Dlinza Forest, we caught up with nice views of one in St. Lucia. Rufous-necked (Red-throated) Wryneck - Jynx ruficollis Great views of this unusual woodpecker at the bottom of Sani Pass. Golden-tailed Woodpecker - Campethera abingoni Knysna Woodpecker - Campethera notate (E, H, NT)

www.tropicalbirding.com 18 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 No amount of playback could get this guy to come into view, nor could any amount of neck-craning and beating through the forest reveal its whereabouts. Heard at a couple of places near Wilderness. Ground Woodpecker - Geocolaptes olivaceus (E) Repeated spectacular views of this unusual rock-loving woodpecker on Sani Pass. Cardinal Woodpecker - Dendropicos fuscescens Bearded Woodpecker - Dendropicos namaquus Olive Woodpecker - Dendropicos griseocephalus Eurasian (Rock) Kestrel - Falco tinnunculus (rupicolus) Lanner Falcon - Falco biarmicus Incredible, close views of a feeding bird perched on a rock at Sani Pass. After it flew off we picked up a few feathers from its meal and figured out it had been eating a Sickle-winged Chat Brown-headed Parrot - Poicephalus cryptoxanthus Great views several times in Kruger. Black-throated Wattle-eye - Platysteira peltata Our local guide in St. Lucia took us right to the spot—we ended up with great views of a pair. Cape Batis - Batis capensis (E) Woodward's Batis - Batis fratrum It took a while, but we finally got excellent views of this species that is endemic to forests of south- east Africa. Chinspot Batis - Batis molitor Pririt Batis - Batis pririt (E) White Helmetshrike - Prionops plumatus Brubru - Nilaus afer Black-backed Puffback - Dryoscopus cubla Black-crowned Tchagra - Tchagra senegalus Brown-crowned Tchagra - Tchagra australis Southern Tchagra - Tchagra tchagra (E) We had incredible views of this endemic bush-shrike near Wilderness and in the Karoo. Southern Boubou - Laniarius ferrugineus (E) Bokmakierie - Telophorus zeylonus (E) Sulphur-breasted (Orange-breasted) Bushshrike - Telophorus sulfureopectus Olive Bushshrike - Telophorus olivaceus (E) Most people had nice views of this sometimes tricky endemic at our hotel in Wilderness. We heard it a few other places, but it wouldn’t come out. Four-colored (Gorgeous) Bushshrike - Telophorus viridis After much effort, we had spectacular views of this stunning bush-shrike in St. Lucia. Gray-headed Bushshrike - Malaconotus blanchoti We had really nice views of this skuking bush-shrike at a breakfast stop in Kruger. Gray Cuckooshrike - Coracina caesia We saw this canopy species several times, including close-up views in the parking lot at Dlinza Forest. Red-backed Shrike - Lanius collurio This migrant was just arriving from Eurasia. We saw a few in Kruger. Lesser Gray Shrike - Lanius minor Southern Fiscal - Lanius collaris www.tropicalbirding.com 19 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Magpie Shrike - Corvinella melanoleuca White-crowned Shrike - Eurocephalus anguitimens African Black-headed Oriole - Oriolus larvatus Square-tailed Drongo - Dicrurus ludwigii Fork-tailed Drongo - Dicrurus adsimilis African Crested-Flycatcher - Trochocercus cyanomelas African Paradise-Flycatcher - Terpsiphone viridis Cape Crow - Corvus capensis Pied Crow - Corvus albus White-necked Raven - Corvus albicollis Drakensberg Rockjumper - Chaetops aurantius (E) After struggling to find Cape Rockjumper, it was with great relief and joy that we had such great, prolonged views of this unique bird. We even watched them around a nest, where we saw a male bring food while another male looked on nearby. Eastern Nicator - Nicator gularis After much maneuvering, we managed scope views of a singing bird in St. Lucia. Rufous-naped Lark - Mirafra africana Flappet Lark - Mirafra rufocinnamomea Cape Clapper Lark - Mirafra apiata (E) Great views both displaying and perched in Bontebok National Park of the Agulhus form, which is sometimes considered a separate species Agulhas Clapper Lark M. majoriae. We also got nice views of the nominate form, again both in flight display and perched, on our hotel grounds in the Tanqua Karoo. Eastern Clapper Lark - Mirafra fasciolata (E, H) Rudd's Lark - Heteromirafra ruddi (E, VU) We traipsed through the pastures of Wakkerstroom until—after many African Pipit scares—we got great looks at this endangered lark. Sabota Lark - Calendulauda sabota (E) Karoo Lark - Calendulauda albescens (E) Spike-heeled Lark - Chersomanes albofasciata (E) Cape (Long-billed) Lark - Certhilauda curvirostris (H, E) Agulhas (Long-billed) Lark - Certhilauda brevirostris (E) Eastern Long-billed Lark - Certhilauda semitorquata (E) Karoo Long-billed Lark - Certhilauda subcoronata (E) Black-eared Sparrow-Lark - Eremopterix australis (E) Amazingly, we bumped into a lone female of this rare, nomadic sparrow-lark, yet we couldn’t find its much more abundant Gray-backed cousin anywhere! Red-capped Lark - Calandrella cinerea Large-billed Lark - Galerida magnirostris (E) Plain Martin - Riparia paludicola Banded Martin - Riparia cincta Rock Martin - Ptyonoprogne fuligula Barn Swallow - Hirundo rustica White-throated Swallow - Hirundo albigularis

www.tropicalbirding.com 20 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Wire-tailed Swallow - Hirundo smithii Pearl-breasted Swallow - Hirundo dimidiata Greater Striped-Swallow - Cecropis cucullata (E) Lesser Striped-Swallow - Cecropis abyssinica Rufous-chested Swallow - Cecropis semirufa South African Swallow - Petrochelidon spilodera Common House-Martin - Delichon urbicum Black Sawwing - Psalidoprocne pristoptera Fairy Flycatcher - Stenostira scita Southern Black-Tit - Melaniparus niger Ashy Tit - Melaniparus cinerascens (E) Gray Tit - Melaniparus afer (E) After missing it in the Karoo, we had great looks in Lesotho on our day trip up Sani Pass. Southern Penduline-Tit - Anthoscopus minutus (E) Sombre Greenbul - Andropadus importunus Yellow-bellied Greenbul - Chlorocichla flaviventris Terrestrial Brownbul - Phyllastrephus terrestris Common Bulbul - Pycnonotus barbatus Black-fronted (Red-eyed) Bulbul - Pycnonotus nigricans (E) Cape Bulbul - Pycnonotus capensis (E) Cape Crombec - Sylvietta rufescens Cape Grassbird - Sphenoeacus afer (E) Victorin's Warbler - Cryptillas victorini (E) Nice views of this skulking, enigmatic endemic were a consolation prize while we were searching in vain for Cape Rockjumper at Swartberg Pass. Yellow-throated Wood-Warbler - Phylloscopus ruficapilla Willow Warbler - Phylloscopus trochilus African Yellow-Warbler - Iduna natalensis African Reed-Warbler - Acrocephalus baeticatus Lesser Swamp-Warbler - Acrocephalus gracilirostris Barratt's Warbler - Bradypterus barratti (E) We had extraordinary views of this skulking endemic warbler at Sani Pass. Knysna Warbler - Bradypterus sylvaticus (E, VU) A few people got glimpses of this skulker at Victoria Bay where one was singing loudly and incessantly as very close range, but wouldn’t sit out for any prolonged period. Little Rush-Warbler - Bradypterus baboecala Bar-throated Apalis - Apalis thoracica Yellow-breasted Apalis - Apalis flavida Rudd's Apalis - Apalis ruddi (E) We had several nice views of this southeast African littoral endemic. Green-backed Camaroptera - Camaroptera brachyura Rufous-eared Warbler - Malcorus pectoralis (E) Red-faced Cisticola - Cisticola erythrops Rock-loving Cisticola - Cisticola aberrans www.tropicalbirding.com 21 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Often a difficult bird to find on this itinerary, we picked it up during a scenic detour through the Blyde River Canyon. Rattling Cisticola - Cisticola chiniana Gray (Tinkling) Cisticola - Cisticola rufilatus A highlight of our brief morning in Polokwane was this uncommon cisticola singing its heart out. Red-headed (Gray-backed) Cisticola - Cisticola subruficapilla (E) Wailing Cisticola - Cisticola lais Tinkling (Levaillant’s) Cisticola - Cisticola tinniens Piping Cisticola (Neddicky) - Cisticola fulvicapilla Zitting Cisticola - Cisticola juncidis Cloud Cisticola - Cisticola textrix We had really nice views of this short-tailed cisticola in the burnt grasslands of Bontebok National Park. Pale-crowned Cisticola - Cisticola cinnamomeus (H) Wing-snapping Cisticola - Cisticola ayresii Tawny-flanked Prinia - Prinia subflava Karoo Prinia - Prinia maculosa (E) Drakensberg Prinia - Prinia hypoxantha (E) Namaqua Prinia (Warbler) - Prinia substriata (E) Yellow-bellied Eremomela - Eremomela icteropygialis Yellow-rumped (Karoo) Eremomela - Eremomela gregalis (E) We had superb views of a very responsive bird in the Tanqua Karoo. Burnt-neck Eremomela - Eremomela usticollis Bush Blackcap - Sylvia nigricapilla (E) Nice looks a couple of times at this strange endemic babbler, first at Sani Pass. Layard's Warbler (Tit-babbler)- Sylvia layardi (E) Rufous-vented (Chestnut-vented) Warbler (Tit-babbler)- Sylvia subcaerulea African Yellow White-eye - Zosterops senegalensis Cape White-eye - Zosterops pallidus (E) Arrow-marked Babbler - Turdoides jardineii Gurney's Sugarbird - Promerops gurneyi (E) One of the best South African endemics, we enjoyed the company of several of these beauties while we ate breakfast on Sani Pass. Cape Sugarbird - Promerops cafer (E) Another spectacular endemic, less colorful but long-tailed than it’s cousin, we saw them several times around the Cape, the first of which was on our post-pelagic detour over Silvermine. Pale Flycatcher - Bradornis pallidus Mariqua (Marico) Flycatcher - Bradornis mariquensis (E) Southern Black-Flycatcher - Melaenornis pammelaina Fiscal Flycatcher - Sigelus silens (E) Spotted Flycatcher - Muscicapa striata Dusky-brown Flycatcher - Muscicapa adusta Ashy Flycatcher - Muscicapa caerulescens Gray Tit-Flycatcher - Myioparus plumbeus

www.tropicalbirding.com 22 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Karoo Scrub-Robin - Cercotrichas coryphaeus (E) Brown Scrub-Robin - Cercotrichas signata (H, E) Frustratingly, none of the singing birds would come out for us in St. Lucia. Red-backed (White-browed) Scrub-Robin - Cercotrichas leucophrys Cape Robin-Chat - Cossypha caffra White-throated Robin-Chat - Cossypha humeralis (E) We saw this beautiful, striking endemic robin-chat on our way out of Kruger. White-browed Robin-Chat - Cossypha heuglini Red-capped Robin-Chat - Cossypha natalensis Chorister Robin-Chat - Cossypha dichroa (E) As usual, there was a wonderfully fearless pair at our hotel in Wilderness. White-starred Robin - Pogonocichla stellata (H) Sentinel Rock-Thrush - Monticola explorator (E) Some superb views at Sani Pass. Cape Rock-Thrush - Monticola rupestris (E) African Stonechat - Saxicola torquatus Buff-streaked Bush-chat (Chat) - Saxicola bifasciatus (E) We had nice views of this beautiful endemic chat on the road up Sani Pass. Southern Anteater-Chat - Myrmecocichla formicivora (E) Mocking Cliff-Chat - Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris Sicklewing (Single-winged) Chat - Cercomela sinuata (E) Our best views were at Sani Pass, where a nearly pettable bird joined our party at the highest pub in Africa. Karoo Chat - Cercomela schlegelii (E) Tractrac Chat - Cercomela tractrac (E) Familiar Chat - Cercomela familiaris Mountain Wheatear - Oenanthe monticola (E) Capped Wheatear - Oenanthe pileata Spotted Ground-Thrush - Geokichla guttata (EN) We had scope views of a singing bird at Dlinza Forest, the classic summertime spot for this globally endangered thrush. Orange Ground-Thrush - Geokichla gurneyi Another rare thrush that we had nice views of, this one at Marutswa Forest. Kurrichane Thrush - Turdus libonyana Olive Thrush - Turdus olivaceus Karoo Thrush - Turdus smithi (E) Common Myna - Acridotheres tristis European Starling - Sturnus vulgaris Wattled Starling - Creatophora cinerea Cape Glossy-Starling - Lamprotornis nitens (E) Greater Blue-eared Glossy-Starling - Lamprotornis chalybaeus Burchell's Glossy-Starling - Lamprotornis australis Black-bellied Glossy-Starling - Lamprotornis corruscus Violet-backed Starling - Cinnyricinclus leucogaster

www.tropicalbirding.com 23 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 This is one of those species that has be seen well to be believed—we had excellent views of this migrant several times in KwaZulu-Natal, getting to see how its extraordinary back color changes depending on the light. African Pied Starling - Spreo bicolor (E) Red-winged Starling - Onychognathus morio Pale-winged Starling - Onychognathus nabouroup (E) Red-billed Oxpecker - Buphagus erythrorhynchus We saw these on a long list of megafauna, but perhaps the favorite sighting was of them riding a warthog down to a waterhole, dropping down to the ground to have a drink, then hopping back on the warthog and riding away. Collared Sunbird - Hedydipna collaris Orange-breasted Sunbird - Anthobaphes violacea (E) We had many nice views of this beautiful, protea-loving Cape endemic, first at the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Eastern Olive Sunbird - Cyanomitra olivacea Mouse-colored (Gray) Sunbird - Cyanomitra veroxii Amethyst Sunbird - Chalcomitra amethystina Scarlet-chested Sunbird - Chalcomitra senegalensis Malachite Sunbird - Nectarinia famosa Southern Double-collared Sunbird - Cinnyris chalybeus (E) Neergaard's Sunbird - Cinnyris neergaardi (E, H, NT) An uncooperative bird was heard singing in Mkuze—unfortunately it was in an area where we could not get out of the vehicle. Greater Double-collared Sunbird - Cinnyris afer (E) Mariqua (Marico) Sunbird - Cinnyris mariquensis Purple-banded Sunbird - Cinnyris bifasciatus White-breasted Sunbird - Cinnyris talatala Dusky Sunbird - Cinnyris fuscus (E) Cape Wagtail - Motacilla capensis Mountain Wagtail - Motacilla clara African Pied Wagtail - Motacilla aguimp African Pipit - Anthus cinnamomeus An abundant bird that be quite frustrating at times as your looking for other brown, ground- dwelling birds, especially around Wakkerstroom. Mountain Pipit – Anthus hoeschi We had a nice pair of this uncommon breeding endemic in the scrub of the top of Sani Pass. Long-billed Pipit - Anthus similis Yellow-tufted (African Rock) Pipit - Anthus crenatus (E) We got lucky when we bumped into this very difficult-to-find pipit in the Karoo National Park. Orange-throated Longclaw - Macronyx capensis (E) Yellow-throated Longclaw - Macronyx croceus Lark-like Bunting - Emberiza impetuani (E) Very scarce this year, we saw only a few in the Tanqua Karoo. Like Gray-backed Sparrowlark, these nomadic birds can at times be abundant, but at times they can also be absent. Cape Bunting - Emberiza capensis

www.tropicalbirding.com 24 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Golden-breasted Bunting - Emberiza flaviventris Common Chaffinch - Fringilla coelebs Cape Siskin - Pseudochloroptila totta (E) We had superb views of one feeding on restio seeds at Rooiels. Drakensberg Siskin - Pseudochloroptila symonsi (E) After many brief views during the day, one landed on the balcony railing at the highest pub in Africa while we were enjoying our Lesotho beers. Black-headed Canary - Alario alario (E) Cape Canary - Serinus canicollis Yellow-fronted Canary - Serinus mozambicus Forest Canary - Serinus scotops (E) Black-throated Canary - Serinus atrogularis Brimstone Canary - Serinus sulphuratus Yellow Canary - Serinus flaviventris (E) White-throated Canary - Serinus albogularis (E) Streaky-headed Seedeater - Serinus gularis House Sparrow - Passer domesticus Cape Sparrow - Passer melanurus (E) Southern Gray-headed Sparrow - Passer diffusus Yellow-throated Petronia - Petronia superciliaris Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver - Bubalornis niger Red-headed Weaver - Anaplectes rubriceps Spectacled Weaver - Ploceus ocularis Cape Weaver - Ploceus capensis (E) African Golden-Weaver (Yellow Weaver)- Ploceus subaureus Southern Brown-throated Weaver - Ploceus xanthopterus Sometimes tricky to find, we had nice views at St. Lucia. Lesser Masked-Weaver - Ploceus intermedius Southern Masked-Weaver - Ploceus velatus Village Weaver - Ploceus cucullatus Forest Weaver - Ploceus bicolor Red-billed Quelea - Quelea quelea Red Bishop - Euplectes orix Yellow Bishop - Euplectes capensis White-winged Widowbird - Euplectes albonotatus Red-collared Widowbird - Euplectes ardens Fan-tailed Widowbird - Euplectes axillaris Long-tailed Widowbird - Euplectes progne Grosbeak (Thick-billed) Weaver - Amblyospiza albifrons Swee Waxbill - Coccopygia melanotis (E) It’s difficult to get better views than we had at the feeders at our hotel in Wilderness. Common Waxbill - Estrilda astrild Blue-breasted Cordonbleu (Blue Waxbill) - Uraeginthus angolensis Violet-eared Waxbill – Granatina granatina www.tropicalbirding.com 25 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 A great find by Cindy in Polokwane, but unfortunately it disappeared before others could get on it. Pink-throated Twinspot - Hypargos margaritatus (E) We had very nice views of this lovely sand forest endemic on the grounds of our lodge near Mkuze. Green-winged Pytilia - Pytilia melba Red-billed Firefinch - Lagonosticta senegala African Firefinch - Lagonosticta rubricata Bronze Mannikin - Spermestes cucullatus Black-and-white (Red-backed) Mannikin - Spermestes bicolor Pin-tailed Whydah - Vidua macroura Eastern Paradise-Whydah - Vidua paradisaea Great views at a hide in Mkuze. Shaft-tailed Whydah - Vidua regia (E) We found a beautiful breeding plumaged male at Polokwane. Variable Indigobird - Vidua funereal Nice views at a hide in Mkuze.

Crested Guineafowl (left) and Goliath Heron both provided great photo ops on this trip.

www.tropicalbirding.com 26 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Mammal List. 61 species. Taxonomy follows Stuart & Stuart (Stuart, C. & Stuart, T. 2007. Field Guide to the Mammals of Southern Africa, 4th Ed. Struik Nature, Cape Town.), with modifications. E=Endemic to Southern Africa. Global threatened status from the IUCN: EN=Endangered, VU=Vulnerable, NT=Near- threatened.

Wahlberg’s Epaulleted Fruit Bat – Epomophrus wahlbergi Nice views twice, first attached to the ceiling of the restaurant where we ate dinner in St. Lucia. The second time was a female with an attached youngster in Kruger. Chacma Baboon – Papio ursinus Vervet Monkey – Cercopithecus pygerythrus We had some, shall we say, “interesting” experiences with these cheeky monkeys, including watching a female with an attached baby steal a bag of potato chips from people picnicking very near us. Greater Galago (Thick-tailed Bushbaby) – Otolemus crassicaudatus We had stunning views of this big nocturnal primate in Skukuza camp on our walk back from dinner. South African Galago (Lesser Bushbaby) – Galago moholi We didn’t see these as closely as their larger cousin, but we had nice views of a very active group on our night drive in Kruger. Scrub Hare – Lepus saxatilis Red Bush Squirrel – Paraxerus palliates Tree Squirrel – Paraxerus cepapi Eastern Gray Squirrel – Sciurus carolinensis (Introduced) Four-striped Grass Mouse – Rhabdomys pumilio Vlei Rat – Otomys irroratus (E) We enjoyed the antics of these wetland-loving rodents while we waited for Red-chested Flufftail to stick its neck out. Sloggett’s Rat – Otomys sloggetti (E) Bush Karoo Rat – Otomys unisulcatus (E) Black-backed Jackal – Canis mesomelas Cape Clawless Otter – Aonyx capensis Seen only by the guide in Wakkerstroom. Banded Mongoose – Mungos mungo Small (Cape) Gray Mongoose – Galerella pulverulenta (E) Slender Mongoose – Galeralla sanguinea Large Gray Mongoose – Herpestes ichneumon A very difficult animal to see, a couple of people got lucky when they saw one run past our hotel in Wilderness. Dwarf Mongoose – Helogale parvula A perennial favorite, we had great views of this diminutive mongoose several times in Kruger. Yellow Mongoose – Cynictis penicillata Meerkat (Suricate) – Suricata suricatta (E) This was one of the mammal highlights of the trip, with wonderful views of a group watching us watch them as they warmed themselves in the morning sun as we were on our way out of Wakkerstroom. Small-spotted Genet – Genetta genetta African Civet – Civettictis civetta Great views of this beautiful cat-like animal on our night drive in Kruger. www.tropicalbirding.com 27 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Spotted Hyena – Crocuta crocuta African Wild Cat – Felis sylvestris A few of us got lucky and saw one in camp in Kruger. Serval – Leptailurus serval Another mammal highlight on our night drive was prolonged views of this difficult-to-see cat. Lion – Panthera leo (VU) Seen a couple of times, our best was a lazy male soaking up the road’s lingering warmth on our nightdrive. African Elephant – Loxodonta africana (VU) We had many great views of this beast, the world’s largest land mammal, including a newborn. Rock Hyrax (Dassie) – Procavia capensis Cape Mountain Zebra – Equus zebra (E, VU) We had some great views of this starkly black-and-white zebra in the Karoo. Burchell’s (Plains) Zebra – Equus quagga White (Square-lipped) Rhino – Ceratotherium simum (NT) We had many great views of this huge beast, including in Mkuze, one of the places where it was saved from extinction some 100 years ago. Warthog – Phacochoerus africanus Hippopatamus – Hippopotamus amphibius (VU) Giraffe – Giraffa camelopardalis Cape (African) Buffalo – Syncerus caffer Eland – Tragelaphus oryx Greater Kudu – Tragelaphus strepsiceros Nyala – Tragelaphus angasii Bushbuck – Tragelaphus scriptus Southern Oryx (Gemsbok) – Oryx gazelle (E) Waterbuck – Kobus ellipsiprymnus Southern Reedbuck – Redunca arundinum Gray Rhebok – Pelea capreolus (E) Black Wildebeest – Connochaetes gnou (E) Some roadside Black Wildebeest in KwaZulu-Natal were no doubt brought in fairly recently. Blue Wildebeest – Connochaetes taurinus Red Hartebeest – Alcelaphus buselaphus Bontebok – Damaliscus (pygargus) dorcas Blesbok – Damaliscus (pygargus) phillipsi (E) Tsessebbe – Damaliscus lunatus We had nice views of Tsessebbe in Polokwane. Impala – Aepyceros melampus Springbok – Antidorcas marsupialis Suni – Neotragus moschatus We saw one individual of this tiny and secretive antelope in Mkuze. Klipspringer – Oreotragus oreotragus Steenbok – Raphicerus campestris We had many great views of this beautiful little antelope.

www.tropicalbirding.com 28 South Africa Oct-Nov 2013 Red Duiker – Cephalophus natalensis It’s always fun to see this tiny antelope, which we did in St. Lucia. Blue Duiker – Cephalophus monticola We had some great moments in Dlinza Forest watching Blue Duikers; they were successful in distracting us while we watched a roosting African Wood Owl in the other direction. Common Duiker – Sylvicapra grimmia Cape Fur Seal – Arctocephalus pusillus (E) Common Dolphin – Delphinus delphis We saw some at close range on the pelagic, which is always a treat.

Faces that only a mother could love, from Kruger: hippo and hyena.

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