UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI COL.L.EGE OF AGRICUL.TURE AGRICUL.TURAL. EXTENSION SERVICE

4.H CIRCUL.AR 138 COLUMBIA, .. ,aaou'" JANUARY. 1957 Girls who take Clothing III should Know how to:

l. Read labels 2. Determine pattern size 3. Follow pattern layout cbart and use guide sheet 4. Work with the grain of the material 5. Transfer pattern markings to fabric 6. Stay stitch 7. Make a bound placket 8. Use a fitted facing 9. Cut and use bias binding 10. Put in a zipper 11. Sew buttons on correctly 12. Take a hem 13 . Slip stitch 14. Use gathering foot 15. D arn If yo u do not know some of these, yo u will want to learn before you start Clothing III. Plan to learn something new with each garment you make. This may be sewing details or working with a differ­ ent rna terial. CLOTHING III

ORENE COWAN

WHAT YOU WILL DO Make three of the following: Wash school dress Summer dress-up dress Petticoat and camisole or slip Play suit or play dress Blouse and skirt 4-H uniform Child's garment Select and do three of the following: Take responsibility of laundering your rayon, silk and nylon Iron your own clothes Keep shoes shined and repaired Keep buttons, hooks and eyes sewed on your garments

PATTERNS Patterns are available in these sizes: (Fig. 1) D Girls: for the figure that is not de­ GIRLS' veloped -requiring no under­ arm dart, short from shoulder to waistline. Teenage: for the figure that is short,

TEEN-AGE small through the bust and across the bac k. Junior: for the fully developed figure that is slender, short, small

JR. MISS waisted and high busted. Misses: for the average size, fully de­ veloped in bust, waist, and hip. Half-size: narrower shoulders, shorter MISSES' waist, fuller bust, waist and hip than the misses Fig. I-Note how patterns vary according figure. Youthful styles are to figure type. available. 4 MISSOURI A G RICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE

Take these meas ure me n ts to deter- each garment should offer you a new . . mll1e your size: expenence. 1. Bust over fullest part Select materials, colors and designs 2. Waistline that go well together. If your skirt 3. Hip-seven inches below waist is casual, choose a casual blouse. parallel to floor. Buy by actual bust measurement. Synthetics Nylon, dacron, orion, and other Skirt Pattern synthetics or blends may be used for For full skirrs buy the size nearest some garments in this project. Syn­ yo ur waist measure. , thetics resist wrinkling, are easily For fitted skirt use the hi p mea­ laundered, require little or no iron­ sure to determine the size. ing. Some find them uncomfortable for summer wear because they do not absorb perspiration. The weave of ACCESSORIES the fabric and the style of the gar­ Consider what accessories you will ment will have a definite effect on wear with garments be/ore you buy how comfortable the garment is. the fabric. What colors can you wear Synthetics usually require a longer wi th it? Flowers or jewelry? Do you stitch and a looser tension than do have shoes and a purse you can use? the natural fibers. Crosswise and bias stitching may be perfect while length­ wise stitching may pucker. For this WHAT TO MAKE reason, check stitching on a scrap of lengthwise material. Summer Dress-up Dress Pressure on the sewing machine is For this you will want to select a regulated by the texture and thick­ fabric and pattern that is cool, wa5h­ ness of the material. Hard finish syn­ able and dressy. It should be suitable thetics such as nylon organdy and very for church, a party, a tea or similar smooth, tightly woven fabrics do not function. Materials such as tissue require as much pressure on the pres­ chambray, voile, organdy, dotted swiss, sure bar as heavier fabrics. To pique, dimity, fine muslin, linen, wash­ increase pressure tighten screw at the able rayon, nylon or other synthetics top of bar. (Fig. 2) Your sewing ma­ or blends may be used if you are ad­ chine manual will show you how this vanced enough to work with difficult­ is done. to -handle fabics. Fine needles, well sharpened scissors and very sharp pins are needed to Summer Skirt and Blouse work with synthetics. Choose linen, butcher's cloth, Nylon and dacron threads have synthetics or blends. You may want been developed for use with synthe­ to choose cotton, but remember that tics. A felt pad and the notch of the 4-H CLUB CIRCULAR 138 5

Interfacing should be as washable as the garment. Very sheer and knit fabrics are not for the beginner. Synthetics sho uld be laundered in such a way as to avoid creasing or wrinkling. Do not wring or twist. Drip dry.

Rayon and Acetate Here Is How They Differ: Rayon Dries slowly Does not melt under a hot iron Will not dissolve in polish remover Loses strength on long ex posure to sunlight Fig. 2 - The pressure screw of the sewing Will mildew machine may need adjusting. Will not fume fade White turns ivory spool at the top of the spindle will help prevent spinning of the spool. Acetate Synthetic threads should be cut, do not break them. The sewing machine Dries quickly should be run at a slower rate of Melts under hot iron speed than normal. Thread ends Will dissolve in polish remover should be secured by several back­ Loses less strength sti tches. Highly resistant to mildew These materials usually require Certain dyes "fume fade" seam finishes that prevent raveling. White stays white Small french seams, overcast, self stitched edges or taped seams may be School Dress right for your garment and material. School dresses should be a ttracti ve, Synthetics do not usually "ease" . comfortable, easy to launder and suit­ well. Consider this before making able for wear during most of the yo ur pattern selection. Adapt the ma­ school year. Fabrics with dark b ac k­ terial to the pattern. For gathers, you ground will not show soil quickly. will need soft material that will . Dresses with sleeves are more practical drape easily. Crisp, firmly woven ma­ than sleeveless. White trim is easier to terials are best for pleats. keep if detachable. 6 MISS OURI AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE

Place pattern so the plaid is the same on the right and left sides of the dress. If a dominant stripe is placed at center front, the same stripe should be at ce nter back. The plaids will match at shoulder line. If set-in sleeves are used the plaid should match the blouse both front and back. Skirts should match crosswise and lengthwise. 1. Check to see if plaid is balanced or unbalanced. 2. Choose si mple patterns. 3. Cut each piece singly. 4. A center front and back seam are necessary if plaid s wit h a Fig. 3 - Fold plaid to see if balanced or un­ definite right and left are used. balanced. S. Extra material is needed for matching. Ginghams, plaids and dark prints 6. Darts will distort less if placed are good choices for school. in the plain portion rather than Plaids are well liked. Since plaids the plaid. (Fig. 4) should match at seam lines, skill is required in cutting and more material is needed. Study the plaid before you 111\ \ \ W buy. Some have a uniform design \\\ with no up or down or left and right. , These are balanced plaids. Unbalanced TJ plaids may have both an up and l \ down -right and left design. You can I check by folding the plaid back on , itself to see if stripes match. (Fig.3) This way Not this Plaids are often cut a single thick­ ness at a time. The first piece is used Fig. 4 - Darts in plain distort less than in as a guide to cut the second by plac­ plaid. ing it so every plaid matches. Patterns for plaids should be sim­ ple. Four gO-fd skirts are easier to Play Suit or Play Dress match than six or eight gore. Play clothes need to be made of Many plaids are woven and do not sturdy, colorfast, washable material. have a rig ht and wrong side. Printed Some suitable materials are denim, plaid may not be straight and have a broadcloth, print, chambray, gingham, right and wrong side. percale, and sailcloth. 4-H CLUB CIRCULAR 138 7

You may want to make slacks, · pedal pushers, shorts and blouse or halter, a three-piece play suit with skirt, blouse and shorts or a dress suitable for active play. Flat fell seams are often used for shorts and slacks because they are strong, comfortable and durable. Other seams may be more suitable for your garment, however. A B c

Slip or Petticoat and Camisole Fig. 6-Slip strap of self material. If you prefer to buy sli ps, select three other garments to make in this ravel. Make a plain seam, turn to one project. side, press, top stitch 1/ 16 " from seam. Choose a pattern suited to the style A double stitched hem may be garments with which it will be worn. used. (Fig. 5) A full or flounced slip will detract Slip straps made from fabric are from the lines of a straight skirt. appropriate. Cut material I" wide, For a slip, you may want to select fold 1,4" to center on each side. Fold rayon, acetate, nylon, or other similar again and stitch on edges. (Fig. 6) material. For the petticoat and cami­ sole, cotton is usually preferred. Child's Garment Make a pinafore, dress, skirt and blouse, sun suit or shirt and trousers, or pajamas for a child. It may be fot an infant or for an older child. Children's clothes need to allow for growth and for freedom of move­ ment. Every garment must be proper­ ---- ly cut and well fitted. ------Choose smooth soft fabrics for a ------very young child. A wider selection is available for older children. Clear, Fig. 5 -Double stitched hem. bright colors that are not intense are pleasing. An all-over print, scaled to The slip may be tailored or lace the size of the child may be a good trimmed. White slips may be worn choice for some garments. with most dresses, but a delicate pink Children's garments should be or flesh color may be a good choice. sturdily constructed to withstand hard Flat fell seams are suitable for tai­ wear and frequent laundering. The lored slips. A top stitched seam may fabric and garment will determine the be used on materials that do not choice of seams. 8 MISSOURI AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE

PLAN YOUR WORK nonwoven or bonded interfacings are used in washable dresses. All inter­ It is easier to work with parts than facings should be preshrunk or per­ to handle a whole garment. For this manently sized. It should match in reason each section should be com­ color if possible and be about the same pleted and pressed before joining to weight as the fabric. another section. Examples: Stitch darts and other details in blouse front Plackets before joining to back. Complete blouse before joining to skirt. Openings that are subject to strain are usually better if zippers are used. Interfacings For full skirts snaps are satisfactory. Interfacings are used for a number Center back zippers are usually of reasons: covered by equal lap from either side. 1. To give crispness and body. If a side placket dress is to be worn 2. To support details of styling without a belt, this same placket can such as padded hips. be used. 3. To retain shape of garments. To prevent strain, stretching or sag­ Set-in Sleeve ging. Fashion sometimes indicates an ex­ 4. To soften turns of hems in tai­ tended shoulder and pads or some­ lored coats and suits. times a normal shoulder. For a natural 5. To reinforce buttonholes and shoulder line, locate a small hollow button fastenings. at the top where the arm joins the Interfacings vary from organdy to shoulder. The seam of the sleeve will heavy canvas. Lawn, muslin, linen, drop from this point parallel to center

Fig. 7 -Set-in sleeve.

A 4-H CLU B CIRCU LAR 138 9

B c front and center back and make a Taped Hems curve under the arm about one to Some garments you make may be two inches below the arm pit. Set in made of fabrics that are so bulky, tape sleeves usually have some "ease." should be used on the edge of the There are several methods of doing hem. (Fig. 8) this. One method is to make a row l. Measure the hem accurately. of machine stitching ~" inside the 2. Even hem. Straight skirts should seam line, another ~" outside the have a 2 to 3" hem, in flared or seam line. (Fig. 7 A) Pull both threads circular skirrs hems will be less. at the same time until the sleeve fits A very full skirt will have a nar­ the armhole, spacing the fullness tow hem. evenly, and pin. (Fig. 7B) (Your gar­ ment will be wrong side out.) Re­ move the pins as you baste. Work on the inside of the sleeve. Before stitching on the machine try on the garment. The sleeve should fit smoothly, the crosswise threads should be parallel to the floor and it should not bind or wrinkle. If it fits, stitch on the seam line and reinforce with a row of machine stitching JA" inside the first stitching. (Fig. 7C) Remove machine stitching that shows. Press. Fig. 8 - Hem finished with hemming tape. 10 MISSOURI AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE

3. Lengthen stitch and machine low the highest point from neck stitch Vi" from raw edge. to prominent bone. 4. Pull thread and adjust gathers 4. Comfortable with no strain or so hem fits dress. pull when seated, reaching or 5. Stitch tape on edge. walking. There should be about 6. Hand stitch in place. 4" ease through bust and 2" ease through hips of fitted skirts. 5. Waistline should fit snugly and How To Know a Good Fit be covered by belt. (To deter­ mine natural waistline tie a string 1. Grain of material parallel to ~oor in place) at center front and back, bust 6. Hem is even and a becoming and hip line. length. 2. Seam lines hang straight. 7. Sleeves should not bind, pull or 3. Shoulder seams straight and fol- twist. Check grain line.

* * *

DRESS REVUE

The Costume ...... 40 Individuality and style ...... 5 Suitability to occasion ...... 5 Upkeep in relation to dress value ...... 5 Condition of dress ...... 5 Construction ...... 20 The Girl...... 20 Posture and Poise ...... 10 Grooming ...... 10 The Costume on the Girl ...... 30 Suitability of design to figure and personality ...... 5 Becomingness of color ...... 5 Fit for app!arance and comfort ...... 5 Effect of undergarments ...... 5 Choice of accessories ...... 5 Judgment shown in distribution of cost ...... 5 General Effect and Completeness ...... 10 Total ...... 100 4 -H CLUB CIRCULAR 138 11

1. Does the neckline fit smoothly?

4. Is bust fullness adequate?

5. Is the sleeve and armhole f~-+-4--7. Is the placket comfortable? ~~~~~ neat?

6. Does the waist­ 8. Sufficient ease line fit? in hips?

even?

12. Hem neatly done?

FIGURE 9 -- DOES YOUR DRESS FIT? 12 MISSOURI A GRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE

SCORE CARD

Dress Design and color ...... 30 Beauty of design and color combination ...... 20 Suitability to occasion and age of .1earer ...... 5 Individuality ...... 5 Materials used, including trimmings ...... 20 Cleaning qualities ...... 10 Suitability to design and purpose of dress ...... 10 Workmanship ...... 30 Accurate cutting-grain straight ...... 10 Choice and neatness of seams, hems, finishes, etc. 10 Perfection of stitching (hand or machine) 10 General appearance ...... 10 Cleanliness ...... 5 Pressing .. 5 Relation of garment value to cost in time and money I 10 Total 100

J

UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND THE UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOPERATING J. W. Burch, Director, Agricultural Extension Service Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914 PROJECT RECORD CLOTHING III (Use with 4-H Circular 138)

Member's Name______,Age ______

Address______County ______

Nameof4-HClub______

Project Leader______

TIllNGS TO DO IN TIllS PROJECT

Make 2 of the following: 1. Wash school dress 5. Blouse and skirt 2. Summer dress-up dress 6. 4-H uniform 3. Petticoat and camisole or slip 7. Child's garment 4. Play suit or play dress

PLAN OF WORK I Will Try To Select and Do 3 of the Following: I Did 1. Take responsibility of laundering my rayon, silk and nylon garments 2. Iron my own clothes 3. Keep shoes polished and repaired 4. Keep button, hooks & eyes sewed on my garments

SUMMARY OF ARTICLES MADE AT CLUB AND AT HOME ~stimated !l.!oney Hours Things Made Number Value Cost Saved Spent

TOTAL MY CLOTlllNG STORY FOR 19 SUMMARY OF ACTIVITIES

1. How many project meetings did you attend ? ______

2. Did you judge at the following events? Local:_____ County: ____

District: State:----- 3. Did you demonstrate at the following events? Local: ___County: __ District: State:---- 4. Did you exhibit in the community? ____County: _____District:

______State.:,.: ______

5. Have you followed the suggestions for good sewing habits ? ______

6. List improvements you have made in personal grooming this year:·__

7. List better ways of doing things that you have learned this year:__ _ UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND THE UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOPERATING J . W. Burch, Director, Agricultural Extension Service Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914