JOHANN RUPERT JOINS THE BULLS/2 TOMMY IN MILAN/4 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ DailyFRIDAY Newspaper • September 16, 2005 • $2.00 Beauty The Artsy Victorian NEW YORK — Vera Wang showed some guts Thursday, letting loose with a collection that had an American-Victorian flair with a touch of the Wild West. Sometimes moody, but mostly chic, Wang bunched, gathered and cinched looks, as she did in this ensemble of a blouse, jacket and pants. For more on the shows, see pages 6 to 13.

Handing Over the Reins: CEO Jean-Louis Dumas Set to Retire at Hermès By Miles Socha PARIS — Jean-Louis Dumas — who for almost three decades personified Hermès and led the family-controlled firm to the pinnacle of the luxury sector — is stepping down. On Thursday, after the markets closed here, Hermès International said Dumas, 67, would relinquish his functions of artistic director and chief executive officer, effective in January. Hermès cited only “personal reasons” for the decision, but Dumas’ increasingly frail appearance and reduced public profile suggest his health has been declining. See Dumas, Page17 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 WWD.COM Richemont’s Rupert Upbeat on Luxury

By Samantha Conti Johann company will issue full interim results on Nov. 17 for the six WWDFRIDAY Rupert LONDON — Johann Rupert, ex- months ending Sept. 30. Beauty ecutive chairman of Compagnie Rupert said the 13 percent Financière Richemont SA, said rise in jewelry sales was pow- FASHION he’s upbeat about the luxury ered by the launch of new prod- The New York shows hit the homestretch with collections from Calvin Klein, goods market generally — and uct lines at Cartier, Richemont’s Vera Wang and Badgley Mischka. with regard to his own compa- biggest-selling brand. Those 6 ny’s performance. lines include the Tankissime “I remain optimistic for the and Pasha 42 watch models, and GENERAL luxury goods market and that opti- the Panther yellow gold and Jean-Louis Dumas, who for nearly three decades led Hermès to the top of mism is borne out by the high rate Baby Love jewelry lines. 1 the luxury sector, is stepping down as artistic director and ceo. of growth in sales that Richemont He said Lancel is showing has seen in recent months,” he signs of recovery with “good” After a manufacturing crisis this summer led to the liquidation of their said in a statement Thursday. sales growth, although Alfred 2 company, Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro are back in action. The statement reported over- Dunhill reported a “more mod- Johann Rupert, executive chairman of Richemont, said he’s upbeat about all sales growth of 16 percent in and IWC. est” increase during the period 2 the luxury goods market and his own company’s performance. the five-month period to Aug. 31. Richemont also holds an 18.5 despite its strong performance Tommy Hilfiger opens a retail/corporate complex in Milan today, the brand’s The biggest growth area was percent stake in British American in Asia-Pacific and increased first Italian foray since it bought the country rights from Fincom in March. watches, where sales rose 23 per- Tobacco, an investment that has demand in the U.S. 4 cent. The highest-performing ge- provided a steady flow of cash. By division, the writing in- EYE: The New York Fashion Week celebrity circuit was in high gear, led by ographic region was Asia-Pacific Indeed, Rupert said Richemont strument manufacturers, includ- 15 Cartier’s bash at Gotham Hall, while all tried to keep up their stamina. with sales growth of 20 percent. would receive dividends of 170 ing Montblanc, reported a 13 per- BEAUTY: Queen Latifah held court at BB King’s in Manhattan to announce “Our specialist watchmakers, million pounds, or nearly $310 cent spike in sales, followed by 22 the Cover Girl Queen Collection, a color cosmetics line for women of color. in particular, have performed million, from BAT during the cur- the leather and accessories impressively. The increase has rent fiscal year. houses, which reported a 6 per- U.S. and Chinese negotiators will head back to the bargaining table to try to reflected the new product Rupert warned, however, that cent sales increase. Sales at 28 hammer out a comprehensive apparel and textile import agreement. launches that we have seen over growth rates for the fiscal year Richemont’s “other businesses” China won’t bow to political pressure for a sharp revaluation of the yuan and the last year and the increased ending March 31, 2006 would division rose 27 percent and 28 will continue an incremental approach to currency reform, experts said. sell-in to our retail partners,” likely not match those of the Rupert said that growth was added Rupert. first five months, due to tough driven chiefly by sales at the The Geneva-based Richemont comparisons with last year. He Paris-based fashion house Chloé. SUZY owns numerous brands, including said that was especially true for By region, sales in the The invitations have gone out for the wedding of Delphine Arnault and Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, the watch business. Americas grew by 18 percent, 14 Alessandro Vallarino Ganci…Prince Harry turns 21. Chloé, Alfred Dunhill, Montblanc, Richemont only supplied followed by Europe with 15 per- Lancel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget sales growth percentages. The cent and Japan with 11 percent. Classified Advertisements ...... 30-31 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Industry Group Forming to Deliver Katrina Aid [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. NEW YORK — Hurricane Katrina has spurred cre- dustry and asked them to help launch and ad- VOLUME 190, NO. 60. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional ation of an organization intended to aid fashion minister an industry-wide effort to channel ap- issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in companies help disaster victims rebuild their lives. parel, accessories and even home furnishings to February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Representatives of several firms met Thursday those affected by the disaster. Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill at the offices of Mahoney Cohen & Co. account- Janice Weinman, president of Kids in Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General ants to discuss the best way to set up an infra- Distressed Situations Inc., spoke at Thursday’s Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. structure to get goods to people who need them. meeting about how her organization channels Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Allan Ellinger, partner at Marketing Management donated merchandise to families to help them Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS Group, proposed the idea and is working with “re-create” their lives after catastrophe. CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North people in the industry to channel their resources. Fashion company representatives suggested the Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four “Hurricane Katrina was the impetus to get group should focus on two goals: getting apparel to weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West this started,’’ Ellinger said. “The event was un- Katrina victims as soon as possible and, for the long 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- precedented and our industry has an obligation term, ensuring that an infrastructure is in place to 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products to help in any way that it can.” launch immediate assistance when a disaster and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail He said he contacted individuals who previ- strikes anywhere in the world. and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. ously ran or owned businesses in the fashion in- —Vicki M. Young WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Clements Ribeiro Back in Action ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. By Samantha Conti he said. “In the meantime, we’ve ticipated at London Fashion rescaled the business, and will Week since the pair returned to LONDON — After a manufacturing be producing the current collec- London in February 2003 after a Quote of the Week crisis earlier this summer and the tion in-house in the U.K. brief defection to Paris. Back in subsequent liquidation of their The design duo put their August, it was unclear whether company, Suzanne Clements and label into voluntary liquidation they were going to show. I am interested in fashion. It is an Inacio Ribeiro are back in action. following the termination of The show will take place at “ Their Clements Ribeiro label will their license by their Italian 6:15 p.m. on Monday, although art in and of itself. stage a presentation of its spring manufacturing partner, Pier Srl, the venue has yet to be con- ’’ capsule collection during London which is based near Venice and firmed. Ribeiro said he expects — George Lucas Fashion Week, Ribeiro said. also produces clothing for labels to have the new funding in place “We’re in talks with in- such as Sophia Kokosalaki, by early next year. vestors, and their reaction has Plein Sud and Dries Van Noten. As reported, the label’s fall been overwhelmingly positive,” Marzia Narduzzi, a spokes- deliveries have been honored, woman for Pier, which had pro- and the Clements Ribeiro Correction duced the collection under license footwear line, produced by for one season, told WWD the two Italian company Mima Srl, con- The L.A. Opera was incorrectly identified in an item in Suzy, on parted by mutual consent, as the tinues. Clements Ribeiro con- page 18, Wednesday. line did not meet expectations. trols its own handbag manufac- Ribeiro said the spring collec- turing and distribution. tion contains some 70 pieces, in- Ribeiro said the company’s cluding knitwear, long a staple of annual sales volume is 2 million the line. “It’s very graphic, very to 3 million pounds, or $3 mil- sculptural, and mostly black-and- lion to $5 million. All figures white. It’s very clean, pure and have been converted from the simple. It’s an exceptional collec- pound at current exchange. That FREE Access tion for exceptional circum- figure does not include shoe The Women’s Wear Daily Web site will be FREE during New York stances,” he said with a wry laugh. sales, which Ribeiro said were Fashion Week. Get the inside scoop: reviews, the latest news, The Clements Ribeiro show booming. He said the company features and much more. For information, visit wwd.com. has become one of the most an- sold 6,000 pairs last season. GANT, 41 WEST 57TH STREET, NEW YORK, 212-230-1949. WWW.GANT.COM 4 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 WWD.COM Tommy Opens Milan Retail/Corporate Complex

By Amanda Kaiser

MILAN — Tommy Hilfiger Corp. may be mulling a possible sale, but that’s not halting the company’s international push into new markets. Today, Hilfiger opens a 16,145-square-foot retail/corporate complex here. The 19th- century structure, featuring Art Nouveau ironwork and glass atriums, houses a store, showroom and offices. Next month a cafe will open on the site, surrounding a cobble- stone courtyard. Hilfiger is renting the space, which stood empty for years. Merchant offices occupy the upper floors, equipped with large terraces overlooking the square. The store alone covers 1,700 square feet and features antique American oak flooring, dark- stained ash shelving units and brushed stainless steel accents. The opening marks the brand’s first major Italian foray since Hilfiger bought the rights to manage and distribute the brand from former partner Fincom SpA in March. The five-year partnership with the Italian company didn’t roll out the bou- tiques as quickly as expected, resulting in just four stores in Turin, Catania, Pesaro and Bologna. Original plans called for about 20 stores. Hilfiger plans to open 10 to 15 freestand- ing stores in Italy over the next three to five years, in cities like Florence, Rome and Milan, which could support a second store. Still, a company spokeswoman said the num- Tommy Hilfiger’s new Milan store (above) and showroom (left). ber-one priority is growing the wholesale business, a task the new showroom will facil- Tommy Hilfiger subsidiaries, it designs its own collections itate. The brand is currently sold in nearly targeting a European audience. Polo shirts are cropped high- 1,000 doors across the country. er and fit tighter, while overall fabric quality is higher than Tommy Hilfiger Europe BV posted rev- that of Hilfiger products in the U.S. A new premium jeans enue of about $532 million for the year line, featuring embroidered back pockets, bows for spring. ended March 31. Company officials estimate Carissa Fortino, managing director of Tommy Hilfiger Italia that Italy generates about 5 to 10 percent of SpA, said the brand already enjoys a higher positioning in turnover. TH Europe predicts that Italian revenue can increase over time to account Europe than the department store-driven U.S. market. The company plans to keep it for 15 percent of European revenues, a spokeswoman said. that way by toning down some of the flag logos, cleaning up baggy silhouettes and Overseas growth, particularly in Europe and the Far East, is key to Hilfiger’s fu- competing more closely with European designers. ture as the brand continues to struggle in the U.S. market. Hilfiger is off to the Far “The European customer likes more of a sophisticated fit. It’s a bit more sleek and East next week for a tour through the region, including fashion shows in major cities, less oversized,” Fortino said. to boost his business there. The building is located on a corner of Piazza Oberdan, a square on one end of the Hilfiger’s European business used to be completely licensed, but the firm bought bustling Corso Buenos Aires shopping avenue. Nearby, Gucci stages fashion shows back the company and it is now a wholly owned subsidiary. However, Fred Gehring, next door to the Hotel Diana Majestic. Just down the road, Dolce & Gabbana is reno- head of Hilfiger Europe, and other partners, approached the U.S. group about buying vating a movie theater into a new show space. the company this summer, prompting Hilfiger to hire JPMorgan Chase in August to so- Despite this proximity to marquee designer territory, Hilfiger isn’t planning a bash licit other offers. during the Milan shows later this month. Instead, it’s slating an event for mid-October The store carries the men’s and women’s sportswear collections, and a smattering when Tommy Hilfiger will be in Monaco for the Swarovski Fashion Rocks for The of denim and accessories. Although TH Europe shares buying offices with other Prince’s Trust event. Angelina Quietly Becomes St. John’s New Face

By Lisa Lockwood statement, he said, “Angelina Jolie embodies so many qualities of what St. John represents. She is strong, in- NEW YORK — Talk about a letdown. dependent and dynamic. She’s a mother, actress and a Several hours before the scheduled press confer- philanthropist. With this partnership, we hope to mark ence at the New York Public Library about the block- another exciting step toward making St. John the ulti- buster liaison between Angelina Jolie and St. John, the mate American luxury brand.” company canceled the event, later issuing a two-page Since joining St. John as ceo in August 2004, Cohen press release about the new deal. has ushered in significant changes at the firm, from In the morning, Richard Cohen, chief executive offi- switching key executives to hiring its first outside ad cer of St. John, put out a short statement saying, “After agency to revamp its long-formulaic advertising cam- a great deal of consideration, we have decided to can- paign. The moves are aimed at reversing the compa- cel our press conference. The sheer volume of re- ny’s shrinking profits while positioning St. John as an quests to attend makes it impossible for us to an- American luxury house. In a major shake-up at the nounce this in a restrained, intelligent way.” firm this past July, both Marie Gray, co-founder and de- St. John officials were said to be concerned the signer, and Kelly Gray, creative director, abruptly re- press conference was going to turn into a media circus signed the same day, to the surprise of their staff. Since since many news outlets who were told they wouldn’t January, Tim Gardner has been a consultant to the de- be let in planned to crash it anyway. sign team. The company expects to name a successor In the afternoon, St. John issued another press re- to Marie Gray soon. lease confirming the Jolie deal. An impending agree- Although St. John’s sales increased 7 percent to ment between the actress and the fashion company $395.6 million in fiscal 2004 from the previous year, was first reported by WWD on Tuesday. profits dropped to $13.4 million. That is 10 percent less The deal is expected to position the Oscar-winning than in 2003 and 44 percent lower than 2000’s profits. actress as both the face of St. John the brand and the St. John’s new ad campaign with Jolie, to be voice behind its newly formed charity created in sup- launched in spring 2006 magazines, will be pho- port of children’s issues and causes. tographed by Mario Testino. David Lipman, creative Richard Cohen and Angelina Jolie, Known for her edginess and unorthodox personali- director of the Lipman agency, along with Cohen, are wearing St. John, on Wednesday.

ty, Jolie is a provocative choice for the brand, which STEPHEN LOVEKIN PHOTO BY collaborating on St. John’s repositioning in the luxury has built its 40-year reputation on dressing the Ladies brand market. Similar to the fall campaign featuring Who Lunch. The company has repeatedly said it wants percentage of the revenues and that she would join St. Gisele Bündchen and also shot by Testino, the spring to attract a younger and wider customer base, and this John’s board. ads will take inspiration from the company’s native is apparently being viewed as a significant step in that Getting St. John on the red carpet has been a goal of California and will evoke Hollywood glamour. For direction. the brand for many years, but sources indicated she more than two decades, St. John’s ads featured Kelly The company declined comment on the terms of her probably won’t have to wear St. John exclusively. Gray in far-flung locations surrounded by a constant contract, but sources said Jolie could receive as much Cohen, who had flown in for the press conference cadre of men. as $12 million for her modeling work for St. John over Wednesday afternoon and was flying back to California Lipman was aided by Starworks, a talent agency the next several years, that she’s expected to reap a on Thursday, couldn’t be reached for comment. In a here, in securing Jolie, who is represented by CAA. ©2005 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Have a brilliant weekend is a trademark of Dow Jones LP. 6 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 Fluid Dynamics Calvin Klein: Anna Wintour and Patrick It’s the season of the hopeless romantic. Pretty chiffon, airy organza and McCarthy walked out. Which is a shame, because this was Francisco Costa’s best show other light-as-feather confections are sure to cause the heart to skip a beat. yet for Calvin Klein, and clearly one of the highlights of the New York season. But it was staged in a manner that offered a microcosm Calvin Klein of all that’s out of control about the fashion show system. We all know that the rules, the focus, the entire reason for fashion shows had shifted dramatically from an insider focus to an outsider focus. Once upon a time, fashion shows were really about unveiling new collections to retailers and editors so that they could plan their upcoming seasons. Now, it’s all about the Lindsays, Ashleys, Mary-Kates, Parises and, should one be so lucky, the Umas, Catherine Zetas and Nicoles. And it’s about letting in the legions of media, print and television, who cover those people as their primary role, pushing, shoving, stomping over anyone (especially unfortunate, given the editorial set’s current impending baby boom) who might come between their lenses and Clay Aiken. (One show regular suggested that steel-toed safety shoes should replace the stiletto sandal as the front-row shoe of choice.) “It’s over, this overwrought fashion show, it’s over,” said André Leon J. Mendel Talley after the show. “I’m sorry, we cannot have celebs in the front row. I love celebrities, but it’s over. It’s for people doing their job. Retailers and editors are being treated like they’re second class. This is unfortunate for Francisco. It marred and diluted his message. Press people need to address the situation and invite fewer people.” While the celebrity-obsessed design houses are primarily responsible for the change, we have all played into it gleefully at one time or another. But those whose job execution is hindered by the situation have long since cried “Uncle,” while the Calvin Klein designers expect us to continue on like the new old days, business as usual. And like Pavlov’s new dogs, we do it. Add into the mix, fashion’s traditional idiosyncrasies. In the theater, an 8:00 curtain means 8:00. In football, a 1:00 york kickoff means 1:00. One can even guess with a fair degree of accuracy what Calvin time Alanis Morissette would finish Klein last night at Giants Stadium, and the Rolling Stones would take the stage. Only in fashion does a 5:00 start mean, at best 5:20, at worst, somewhere near 6 p.m., but never, ever does it mean 5:00. And in what other The process should start with the connection with Calvin.” industry do major players routinely throw Calvin Klein show at Milk Studios, the Perhaps so, but while he was channeling Calvin, events at which they expect people to get all worst venue in New York, and among the Calvin himself was in Rio. And in truth, Costa has dressed up in their au courant best and then worst anywhere. The elevators have long been moved on from the folly of trying to get into Klein’s push and shove their way into a venue — perhaps a nightmare, and this time out, the busted air- head, finally proving himself a designer of in an old, creeky, dangerous elevator, where they conditioning contributed to the foul smell that considerable weight. Thursday night should have been will sit in sweltering heat and sweat like pigs on ebbed and flowed through Section C. Still, after his time to celebrate, because he showed a fabulous overcrowded benches until the main attraction gets the show, Tom Murry, president and chief collection. All about lightness and air, it featured two under way? On the flip-side, where else do people operating officer of Calvin Klein Inc., said it was too ongoing themes — circles and cables — which he throw open-air bashes in January and February, soon to comment on whether the firm would finally integrated in both construction and decoration while leaving their guests to freeze while they’re backstage change locations. As for the frightening paparazzi focusing on shirt shapes and a white-based palette. In with the heating units? commotion, Murry said: “The frenzy is part of the show, working those elements so precisely, Costa achieved The world has many problems, and in the big and the heat…I don’t know what went wrong.” Murry something quite difficult: maintaining a minimalist picture, disgruntled fashion folk are not a was unaware that Wintour and McCarthy had departed, integrity in quite complicated clothes. sympathetic constituency. In our small world, but when told, said only, “I am sorry they left. They Yet, when it rains, it pours, as they say, and a sour however, we all know that the show system has spun missed a great show.” audience may not be Calvin Klein’s only problem this into chaos; did you happen to catch those poor goats Costa, meanwhile, seemed open to a move. “Maybe season. Pre-show rumors suggested that this collection on Sixth Avenue on Thursday? What’s needed is for the space should change,” he said. “I know that the may not be produced. As part of a licensing cool-headed industry leaders to convene for some elevator situation has always been an issue. But it’s arrangement, Vestimenta started producing the Calvin serious, constructive reevaluation. such a Calvin space, and being here, there is such a Klein Collection lines for fall 2003, and some sources WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 7 WWD.COM

J. Mendel Badgley Badgley Mischka Mischka

Vera Wang

Vera Wang PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO AND ROBERT MITRA CENTENO AND ROBERT TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY

speculate that the deal could end prematurely at the end of J. Mendel: The ladies love Gilles — Tinsley, Olivia, Tiffany, Helen. And why not? J. this year. The family that controls Vestimenta is said to be Mendel’s Gilles Mendel delivers a specific point of view. This designer’s square root looking to exit the apparel business, leaving Calvin Klein Inc. of fashion is pretty, as in pretty crinkle chiffon gowns and beaded fur confections, all with the task of finding a new manufacturer. Yet Murry of which are sure to be destined for showtime on the gala and party circuit. He downplayed the notion that the spring collection is vulnerable. paired tulle with satin face chiffon and sent them skimming across the body in ac- “It will either be Vestimenta or, if we agree to transfer the license cordion pleated skirts and dresses; broadtail vests brimmed with airy blushed or- to another entity, it will be with them,” he said, adding that ganza, and a tender deconstructive motif ran throughout the show with exposed Vestimenta has a long-term agreement that it is expected to seams, raw edges and whipstitching. And, oh, let’s not forget his furs. Mendel has al- fulfill until a new partner is found. “We are talking to several ways been skilled at working a sense of fluid ease into them, but this time he took a companies,” he said. step further, working them to the same wistful, romantic effect as his chiffons and — Bridget Foley silk tulles. To wit: His reversible, plum-colored coat came complete with a gossamer floral print chiffon on one side and long-haired mink lining on the other. This collec- Vera Wang: Although no one has ever accused Vera Wang of tion turned wintry trappings into delicate, spring-worthy fare alongside silk faille being a shy type, her collections have veered toward the trenches, corset tops and pintucked gowns. It all proved a reminder that the man discreet, if not the demure. That is, until she discovered some once known just for standard furs is also capable of plenty more. Wild West soul mates in the salty women of “Deadwood.” Whether Vera could match those women cussword for cussword is Badgley Mischka: They’re back. After two seasons without showing, Mark Badgley questionable, but they would certainly get a giddy case of the vapors over her and James Mischka presented their collection amidst a huge, elaborate garden of beautifully gutsy collection. sorts, on what appeared to be an endless catwalk at The Waterfront space in Gutsy because inherent in all that American Victoriana is the distinct Chelsea. Later, the designers hosted a champagne reception in honor of their return possibility of costumery. But Wang didn’t stop there, pushing forward with the to the runway. And these clothes are reason to celebrate, though the scale of the artsy flourishes she started using freely for fall. This came not only from a palette venue and the 9 p.m. showtime sent the message that this was more about the and lovely swirl print cribbed from Matisse at the Met, but from daring shapes — production than the collection. voluminous skirts, twisted and bunched and gathered; corsetry worn over shirts; That said, no one does those beaded looks better than these boys. This season’s moody, carefully placed embroideries. “I wanted to create a tension between embroidery seemed significantly newer, mainly because there was less of it. What pioneer and artistic elements, big and small, rich and poor,” Wang said. did surface on their gowns was executed with a more body-emphasizing precision. Along the way, she advanced fresh perspectives on moody-broody dressing, Two of the best that made this point: a satin-belted, beige chiffon tank gown under a making it mostly chic and at times out there. In the former camp, intricate cuts metallic tweed jacket and the Empire look in beige lace with a gray satin structured made lean dresses provocative, while daring textural and color mixes delivered bra. But it is the way they played with fabrics that telegraphed the big news. Beaded romance of a toughed-up sort. In the latter, the big, shiny purple fluff of a frock gray linen hopsack, for example, was used for a short A-line dress and sexy suit; the would be just right for a black-tie hootenanny at Tombstone Town Hall. snug little cashmere sweater was teamed with a gray tulle ballerina skirt. The Peculiar — you bet, and brashly so. But this collection’s strength lay in its gall. designers also checked in on the season’s shorts trend, but they did it their way by And practically speaking, in its gorgeous, round-the-clock clothes. Perhaps the mixing a mist chiffon top with a black cotton jacket and skinny Bermudas, or putting biggest news came in her dressed-up sportswear; small, constricting jackets over a terrific beaded golden cardigan over hopsack shorts. This was a collection rich decorative blouses, and slim cropped pants or big skirts. Wang’s gowns dazzled as with wonderful clothes and ideas — some belonging to their signature looks, others well — gorgeous hybrids of high glamour and artistic eccentricity. a completely new take. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 The De Proper or pretty, superchic or full of whimsy, spring’s runway Marc by Marc Jacobs

Anna Sui

Anna Sui: Charm and cool are rarely synonymous in fashion, yet a deftly prepared elixir of the two has long fueled Anna Sui’s appeal. The collection she showed for spring was no exception, packed as it was with oh-so-sweet fancy frocks. In a way, it recalled her early pre-kitsch styling years, with dress after dress perfect for attending a Chelsea art opening, underground rock concert or independent flick premiere. Long a lover of whimsical prints, this season’s were inspired by the Twenties-era’s magazine Gazette de Bon Ton. “Everything was so delicate,” she says of its charming fashion illustrations. “That’s what I was going for in the prints and the clothes themselves.” To that end, a butterfly print was a focus of the collection, but there were also orchids, roses, daisies, shawl and curtain prints rounding out the airy repertoire. And they turned up in just about every floaty dress shape imaginable — long, short, fitted, full, Empire, drop- waisted and on and on. Lest it all become too frilly, Sui accessorized with butter-soft laser-cut boots, metallic espadrille wedges and soft, low-slung hobo bags roomy enough to hold every necessity of a girl-about- town. Delightful as it all was, however, the endless dress brigade grew repetitive. When Sui did digress, it was with pulled-together sportswear, such as a tan embroidered coat over a sequined Anna halter and cropped pants. Such looks Sui seemed to come out of nowhere, but nevertheless opened a window into Sui’s secret chic.

Cynthia Rowley: Mod fever has infected many a New York designer, and Cynthia Rowley is no exception. Rowley’s show began oddly enough, with a model crashing through a wall of candy glass, clad in a silk new wear. And for some women, it is their style.” But by the shift dress suspended from a Lucite disc. In fact, Rowley new designer’s own admission, the tunic played a lesser role for went crazy for Lucite accents, either in those discs spring — a cameo, if you will. With an unwavering view on adorning necklines, in marble-sized balls adorning wearability, Burch is one who prefers to refine and build rather headbands or in a shoe’s platforms. Unfortunately, such york than reinvent. Spring and summer are naturally her seasons, and tricky accessories and a runway covered in candy glass she naturally knows what her customer likes to wear: comfortable, shards drew attention away from some cute clothes. superchic clothes that are a no-brainer to put on and go. Working in The best: a Swiss cotton jacquard dirndl dress with a some of the softest fabrics — including a buttery washed linen and pouf hem and an ultrasuede skirt topped by an whisper-thin distressed leather — Burch designed exactly that. Among the organdy blouse and V-neck sweater. Rowley’s Space-Age great basics of boatneck tops and khaki trenches and pants, both wide and slim, shifts were also rendered more wearable when that were printed dresses, pretty ruffled shirts — plain and printed — cotton voile tanks Lucite was replaced with a silk disc. and yes, tunics. Some of them were simple with flat bronze paillettes, others a bit more glitzy with bugle beads. Swimwear, new this season, came in her classic Tory by TRB: “We’ll always do the tunic,” said Tory Burch at her spring presentation Moroccan print and another pattern of tiny lobsters with gold-ring hardware. Also of in her bright Madison Avenue showroom. “It’s something that’s flattering and easy to note is Burch’s burgeoning accessories collection — as covetable as her clothes. WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 9 WWD.COM elicate Cycle ys were packed with refined, sober looks that still kept everything cool, lean and sexy.

Tor y by TRB Yeohlee Douglas Hannant

Cynthia Rowley

Tor y by TRB PHOTOS GIANNONNI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, BY MITRA ROBERT

Yeohlee: Even though Yeohlee Teng showed some strong looks, we were Ladies Who Lunch and Party, and they were all there still left wondering, “What was she thinking?” Yes, the black velvet coat decorating his front row Thursday morning. So for spring, was beautiful, but for spring? Why did she show that great inside-out he dished up more of what they like — a proper and pretty pocket coat or Balinese-print top with jeans from another company? And collection of lean, spare suits and dresses, done mostly in what was Fern Mallis doing modeling in the show? Still, what did make white with occasional touches of peach and lime. Only the sense were the delicate sheer cotton lace tops, the structured mini fabrics — cotton guipure lace, waffle tweeds, sundress in printed cotton and those knockout swimsuits. The latter, in embroidered tulle — got elaborate, sometimes to a fault. fact, included some of the best this season, at a time when swimsuits are There is certainly nothing offensive about Hannant’s showing up everywhere. Yeohlee’s were Victorian one-piece versions with clothes, but what this collection lacked was personality and boyshorts in black matte jersey, worn under a white, felted leather jacket youthful verve. Still, his faithful flock, who have plenty of or a waxed cotton coat, and best of all, the wheat cotton knit under a personality and verve of their own, can find some appealing matching cardigan. More of these, as well as her sexy little summer numbers — the cotton waffle tweed sheath, edged in tulle; dresses, might have given the collection some point of view. an A-line slipdress with ribbed knit trim and a cluster of crocheted ruffles, and the enchanting, long cream point Douglas Hannant: Douglas Hannant has become the darling of the Young d’esprit Empire gown. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 She Wears It Well From girly to Mod, voluminous to polished, designers had one common denominator this season: fresh, wearable clothes.

Malandrino: After sitting out last season, Catherine Malandrino is back in the fashion game, forsaking a traditional show in favor of a stunning presentation at the Pace Wunderkind Thakoon Wildenstein gallery. Malandrino’s models stood atop a grid of concrete pedestals of varying heights, and though the overall effect was remarkably similar to McQueen’s chessboard finale from last year, the beautiful clothes were enough to forgive any indiscretion. Inspired by Amish handcraft and the colors of West Africa, Malandrino fashioned some exquisite coats, as in an ivory silk number done up in alternating panels of pintucking and trapunto stitching. A-line sheaths in rustic prints or patchwork were suspended from necklaces or cinched under the bust with belts, both sporting large wooden paillettes. And to complete the look of all that handcraft chic: a new shoe collection featuring such natural materials as wood, leather and macramé.

Wunderkind: Third time’s a charm for Wolfgang Joop. After his first two forays into the New York tents were met with mixed results, Joop delivered a strong collection Thursday that was theatrical, but still structured. An oversized shirtdress could have looked downright messy, but instead worked beautifully with its layers of raw-edged tuxedo pleats down the front. Razor-sharp suit jackets with horizontal pleats at their bottoms (indeed, pleats were a central theme) were softened with voluminous cotton voile wrap blouses, slouchy trousers or double-hemmed skirts. The designer didn’t give much attention to prints, but the subtle plaids and oversized florals he did use looked great in the mishmash of textures and shapes. The same goes for eveningwear, where pleats again showed up, this time in nude silk and peeking out from under a black Chantilly lace halter gown.

Thakoon: Three-and-a-half seasons into his fledgling career, Thakoon Panichgul upgraded from his past tableaux vivant presentations to a full-fledged runway show. This change is a rite of passage for a young designer, but too bad for those who enjoy lingering over his unusual, pretty details and visual wit. In fact, he opened his show with a flourish of said wit — two organza dresses with a ghostly, graded-scallop pattern accomplished by layering the material. Most of Panichgul’s detail, in fact, came via fabric manipulation. Fluttering petals of cloth trimmed dresses and knits and even formed a lovely necklace. Seaming based on diamond facets added a sort of trompe l’oeil dimension to satin dresses. His silhouettes were more girlish than womanly, as seen in slightly poufed skirts and dresses that ended north of the knee. Overall, it was a fresh, lovely collection, but some looks pushed the cute factor to the limit.

Jenni Kayne: In the three years since launching her Los Angeles-based line, Jenni Kayne has experienced all the typical growing pains of a young designer. But her New York debut here on Wednesday showed that Kayne has lived and learned, and is ready to shine. Her clothes brought to mind Slim Aarons’ “A Place in the Sun,” but with a decidedly modern twist. Think lace-trimmed dusters, grass-skimming gowns and lean knits, all mixed and matched to perfection. Her hometown girls likely will go for the sunny yellow crepe de chine cross-gathered dress for day, or the gold-sequined apron dress for red-carpet nights. New Yorkers will cozy up to the muted cashmere knits, or tropical wool blazer and sashed shorts. In any case, Kayne proved she’s got the skills to charm both coasts. new Malandrino Mary york Ping WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 11 WWD.COM

Jenni Kayne Vivienne Tam: The challenge for Vivienne Tam is maintaining her signature chinoiserie without, well, overdoing it. After last season’s Garbo-inspired fest, the designer settled on Edie Sedgwick this time around, moving Tam’s traditional motifs into a new Sixties Mod direction. There were polkadot chiffon shifts and rompers and floral baby-doll numbers, accompanied by her usual Sino chic, such as peony eyelet and embroidered accents. And despite one decidedly out of place organza paillette pouf dress and a few overly macraméd numbers, it all made for a refreshingly simple and charming lineup.

Phi: For the past few seasons, Susan Dell and her design director, Andreas Melbostad, have run counter to the fashion hegemony. As embellishment and nonintellectual clothes made up the prevailing scene, they went for minimal, sober colors, a light touch of the avant-garde and a decidedly ungirlish brand of chic. Well, once again, they are zigging as others zag. There were few pants in Dell’s spring collection. Instead, she sent out mostly full skirts and dresses that often poufed with tiered layers and were decorated with a graphic floral appliqué and lace. Busts were tightly constructed to counter below-the-waist volume. As the show progressed, the color quotient leaped to bright fuchsias and reds, in intarsia knits and a geometric-and-floral print. As usual, every piece was constructed with the sort of perfectionism luxury clothes should always have. But along with excellent production quality, wearability has been a Phi hallmark. And one had to question just how viable these very girlish, above- the-knee silhouettes might be.

Christopher Deane: Christopher Crawford and Angela Deane know that in the summer, a girl likes looks that are easy, yet polished. The duo accomplished just that with a fabulous array of dresses, some done in a gorgeous, jewel-toned geometric color block, others in a large-scale feather print. There were also gowns for the fanciest of affairs, but the designers still kept the utmost comfort in mind, such as a breezy black cotton gauze number with satin insets at the bustline. Many looks were cinched with amusing wide belts made of denim in different colors. Separates were strong, as well, especially the fitted shrunken blazers and loose shorts.

Zero Maria Cornejo: Maria Cornejo’s sculptural chic trappings make for better bedfellows with fall’s woolen coats and heavier fabrics. But silk charmeuse dresses and knotted jersey tops aside, her spring showing of bamboo wrap dresses and curved-seamed jackets lived up to her architectural simplicity without being too plain. And she launched accessories to boot: handbags folded and fastened from a single piece of leather, as well as a collaboration with Keds featuring skimmers with grosgrain-ribbon wraparounds.

Milly: Lilly Pulitzer has a bit of competition among the preppy Palm Beach set. Michelle Smith’s Milly collection offered PYTs plenty of her signature feminine print dresses in patterns like paisley, Moroccan motifs, chevron and lanterns, all with a Sixties flair. The designer also injected more sportswear looks this spring, with great eyelet jackets, tulip skirts and trenchcoats. Indeed, Smith turned out a charming, though somewhat safe, lineup that only occasionally veered toward the overly stiff. Vivienne Tam Mary Ping: Mary Ping continues to cement her reputation for designing simple, lovely and wearable clothes. Her spring lineup was inspired by men’s wear but it still maintained a certain femininity and grace. The designer sent out fantastically soft cottons cut into T- shirt dresses; turned a men’s-looking, striped button-down into a sexy dress, and intermixed plenty of Bermuda shorts and a great black trench. Her colors were just right, too, with pale blue and cobalt silks and a complementary infusion of navy and rust.

Phi Christopher Zero Maria Milly Deane Cornejo PHOTOS TURNER GIANNONI AND DAVID GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, BY 12 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 Fashion Scoops

Fred Wilson with his herd. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER

Camilla Al GOAT-GETTERS: The stairs outside of Bryant Park along with Galliano and Slimane. For more on Fayed are crawling with hawkers, peddling everything the wedding, see Suzy, page 14. Brits Arrive from test-tubes to the new musical “Slut,” so why not throw in a few goats? Saks Fifth SHOW CRASHERS: With minutes to spare before Gilles Mendel may be best known for Avenue chairman and chief executive officer the start of their 9 p.m. show Wednesday on dressing New York social girls, but at his Fred Wilson corralled some goats Thursday to 11th Avenue, Mark Badgley and James Mischka J. Mendel show Thursday afternoon, in kick off the store’s “Wild About Cashmere” found themselves three models short. Carolina addition to the usual front-row ladies like campaign. Trentini, Heather Marks and Cynthia Dicker had Lauren duPont, Lisa Airan, Helen Schifter, To spread the word beyond the fashion wound up in a fender bender en route from Olivia Chantecaille, Tinsley Mortimer, Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos, Tiffany Dubin flock, the goats will be hanging out with Saks Vivienne Tam’s 8 p.m. Bryant Park show. and Debbie Bancroft, he had a few British reps Friday near the Staten Island ferry’s Rushing into the lineup before Badgley imports in attendance. The Scarry entrance and on Saturday they are off to the Mischka’s show, Marks said she wasn’t sure sisters, Fiona and Olympia, England’s Museum of Natural History and the what caused the accident or where exactly it answer to those infamous Hilton girls, Metropolitan Museum of Art. Monday calls for a happened since she was on the phone with her were in town from London, sitting in the “Today” show appearance and they will be booker. Trentini continued, “We just heard second row beside their friend, Camilla Al front-and-center at Saks “Wild About screeching tires, and then ‘Boom!’ Another cab Fayed, daughter of Harrods owner Cashmere” party Tuesday. No word on what the hit us.” Mohammed Al Fayed. goats thought of the shows. But their taxi was fine, as was the trio, so “We went to DVF on Sunday. It was they motored on to the show. our first show of the week,” said Al ELEGANT BRIDE: One day after New York Fashion Meanwhile at the show, some ladies had Fayed of witnessing the disastrous light Week closes comes a major couture show in higher hopes than others. Singer/actress Bette crash. “We’re going to Zac Posen tonight. France. That’s how many view the prospect of Midler, for one, whose entrance provoked a mad We’re still a bit jet-lagged, but we partied Delphine Arnault’s wedding Saturday, when she paparazzi and film crew crush at the entrance, as soon as we got here. We landed on will come down the aisle in Christian Dior seemed to expect nothing less than magic. Saturday and went to Marquee and couture by John Galliano to wed Alessandro “Their clothes are the stuff of dreams, Bungalow that night.” Al Fayed plans to Gancia, the groom dressed by Dior Homme’s costumes for your finest hour, when you only attend Julien Macdonald’s show next Hedi Slimane. Word has it Dior’s couture ateliers want to present your best self,” she exclaimed week in London, though she admits have been working overtime to dress many of of the designers’ creations. She even waxed fashion week there isn’t the same now that designers like Alexander McQueen the 600-plus guests, too, an international who’s poetic about the last piece of theirs she wore. show elsewhere. who of royals, socialites and industry titans. “It was probably something in tulle, aqua, with The designer contingent will also be impressive, pink sequins. I was very lucky.” PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY with Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs coming, But Midler’s fashion interest is not limited WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 13 WWD.COM

Gwen Stefani is one of my favorites. When you department and have reunited at Lividini look at her collection, you can tell she is Weisenfeld Partners. How to Drop a Grand Before Noon passionate about it.” “It’s been a whirlwind couple of days,” said On weekends, Keys said she is “possibly” interested in Rhodes. “I got off the plane Saturday from Chelsea’s art designing her own collection, but nothing is Istanbul after a 10-day trip in Turkey, showed galleries are filled imminent. “I’m so focused on so many things up at the tents Saturday at 2:30, went to Dana mainly with looky- right now,” the Grammy winner said. As to what Buchman and Diesel Sunday night for client loos. But Phillips is more pressing, she said, “My top two meetings until about 11 and jumped right in de Pury is hoping priorities are taking care of myself and this morning with the Dana Buchman show.” to attract actual continuing to grow as a woman.” She’s got a vice president’s title at LWP, which buyers this also has Buchman on the client roster. Saturday with its UNDERCOVER: Unlike most of the celebrities first who hit the tents to be seen, Illeana Douglas left ELEVATOR ISSUES: When it wasn’t the heat, it Saturday@Phillips the tents relatively unnoticed Wednesday. was the elevators. This fashion week has been sale, and being the Dressed in an embroidered top and jeans, the marred by technical glitches, and on Thursday Vladimir Kagan’s monied-type isn’t actress said she caught Nanette Lepore’s show morning, 550 Seventh Avenue caught the bug. sideboard, Bettina really even a and planned to do the same with Jeremy Scott Because of a leak in the upper floors, none of Rheims’ prints and requisite. The 15th since she is in town on vacation. Of the films the four elevators were in operation, leaving Herbert Krenchel’s Street gallery is she has in the works, “Walk the Talk” with Cary only a freight elevator for those wishing to reach bowls all on sale at luring early Elwes and another with Jeff Goldblum are two the showrooms of Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Phillips de Pury. collectors and first- personal favorites. But don’t look for her in any Renta and Bill Blass. time buyers with a fashion-related flicks. Most of the Donna Karan team was already at laid-back auction “It’s its own living art form. I don’t think you work before it happened, and Karan, who was featuring relatively could capture that on film. You just have to putting the final touches on her show today, affordable come here and experience it. That’s what’s took the freight elevator up. By mid-afternoon, contemporary art, great about it. It’s like New York, too.” the elevators were back in full force, said Patti furniture and Cohen, executive vice president. photography. Eero RISE AND SHINE: Carmen Marc Valvo’s runway Aarnio’s playful show was early enough in the day for Soledad TV TIME: “They’re keeping me a safe distance “Pony” chair from O’Brien to attend. The co-host of CNN’s from the models,” quipped “Soprano” Steve R. 1973, priced at an American Morning said she starts her day at Schirripa from his “sixth” row seat at the estimated value of 3:15 a.m. but can get dressed in a head-to-toe Rebecca Taylor show Wednesday. Schirripa, $1,500 to outfit in less than five minutes — “much to the who plays Bobby “Bacala” Baccalieri on the $2,500, is one shock of her husband.” “I do it like Garanimals. show, was tagging along to some shows with such item. Others I know what goes with what,” she said. “Tonight” show crack-up “Ross the intern,” include an Andy O’Brien was delighted to find Katie Couric aka Ross Mathews, to get a “vibe of fashion Warhol “Holy Cats across the aisle. “Not only am I a huge fan, but week and trying, unsuccessfully, to fit in” by Andy Warhol’s she’s been a mentor to me — and she looks noted Jay Leno’s prodigy. The row was actually Mother” lithograph good.” a faux front row, complete with actors Zoe ($2,000-$3,000), For her part, Couric said her workday starts Saldana and Greg Bello, rigged by Taylor’s p.r. a print of Matthew between 5 a.m. and 5:30 a.m. and she can be team to accommodate the “Tonight” show TV Barney’s “Creamster 5” ($800-$1,200) and a unique felt-tipped pen drawing by Takashi showered, dressed and out the door in 15 crew. Asked if having a Soprano by your side Murakami ($2,000-$3,000). “Auctions can be a little bit intimidating to people,” said gallery minutes. But Couric trumped O’Brien with helped navigate the shows, the co-editor said, director Tiffany Wood. “They think they can’t come in unless they’re going to buy. The more something else and it wasn’t the brawny, “I’m helping him get in.” While he didn’t have affordable items in the sale make it easier for the new collector.” suntanned man — Steve Santagatti, a “Today” any suggestions for the ladies for spring, The Saturday sales will be held four times over the next year, with the next scheduled for Dec. show contributor — she chatted with through Schirripa naturally recommended in his case, 17. Bidders who brave the 11 a.m. start times will be rewarded with coffee and Krispy Kremes. most of the show. “She does have nice shoes,” ”Anything that fits.” “We wanted to tap into what Chelsea’s like on a Saturday,” Wood explained. “It’s really hopping.” O’Brien said. “I’ll give her that,” referring to her Dolce & Gabbanas. to the duo. “Last season I went to Zac Posen — fashionista with a job in publishing. Her first The spring fashions it was great to see him and in fact I went to his appearance was at Fashion Rocks, “to hear the FULL HOUSE: Even if the Italian collections are on the runways this studio. I’m not going this year, though, because music,” she said. Next it was Vivienne Tam’s wrapping up one day early, some pampered Chic week have I have a bunch of Hurricane [Katrina] benefits show Wednesday night. “It must be fun to be a members of the fashion flock might end up of the continued the to go to.” model,” she said, commenting on the models cooling their heels in Milan rather than heading more minimal tone walking the runway. “That’s an interesting directly to Paris. With a number of trade shows set in motion this KEEPING COOL: Among the sweating crowd walk.” Dressed in one of Tam’s strapless printed on in the French capital, plus events like the fall. And you needed desperately fanning themselves at the Calvin dresses and suede coat with a fur collar, famous Arc de Triomphe horse race, Paris’ Show to look no further than Klein show Thursday at Milk Studios, one Graham took mental note of what she liked the upscale hotels have been deluged, meaning the front row of the person remained remarkably cool looking — best. “I really liked the lace dresses and the plush beds are hard to find the weekend of Oct. Douglas Hannant show Thursday Vanity Fair editor in chief Graydon Carter. He sat long polkadot fringe dress,” she said before 1. The Ritz and the George V have been fully morning and an elegant Jamee Gregory to in the front row wearing a navy wool blazer and being dashed away to meet the designer booked for weeks and the Plaza Athénée or the see the merits of the succinct style. Wearing jaunty green corduroy trousers, barely a bead of backstage. Crillon only have a few $1,300 suites left. So gray Theory pants, a white, sweat visible. Was it his upbringing north of the much for economizing. tuxedo-ruffled button- border? “No, I don’t go to that many fashion SHIRT OFF HIS BACK: After hearing that Kenneth down Alexander shows and I figure you’re bound to be hot when Cole marched down his runway in a T-shirt POP CHARTS: Music magazines aren’t the only McQueen shirt and you do go,” he said. Was the outfit part of a imprinted with the Red Cross’ logo and a toll- ones offering free CDs on their covers these Manolo Blahnik new diet? Carter laughed. “Well, it could be — free number to help Hurricane Katrina days. Word has it French Vogue will soon offer sandals, Gregory just sweat it off.” victims, the nonprofit group asked the its readers a very fashionable duet: between looked crisp and cool designer to autograph and donate the shirt for Kate Moss — the subject of a December feature despite the muggy FRONT-ROW DUET: Rosario Dawson and Tracie a charitable auction. He obliged and has — and her boyfriend, Pete Doherty, of the weather. Even her Thoms, co-stars in the upcoming film of the hit whipped up similar T-shirts to sell in his nearly Babyshambles. The track is also slated to fringed Hogan bag play “Rent,” certainly got into the music at the 80 stores. Cole’s handful of New York stores appear on Doherty’s next album. revealed her desire finale of the Vera Wang show Thursday. As will be the first to carry the $25 item. All to pare things down Sonny and Cher sang “I Got You, Babe” on the proceeds will benefit the Red Cross, America’s MURDER, SHE WROTE: Since she discovered a (of course, it helps soundtrack, the two locked arms and loudly Second Harvest, Operation Blessing and new vocation — writing murder mysteries — that daughter Sam sang along, bringing some much-needed Convoy of Hope. Elsa Klensch hasn’t been attending as many does their p.r.). merriment to all the seriousness around them. fashion shows as she did when she covered the “All these women Dawson enjoyed the shows she attended this HELP FOR B. MICHAEL?: Among those checking style beat for CNN. Seated in the front row of carry around these week — which also included Oscar de la Renta out the B. Michael show Monday afternoon was the Cynthia Steffe show Monday, Klensch said huge bags on their and Michael Kors — but was sorry she couldn’t David Bennett, managing director of investment her second book, “Shooting Script,” will be arms and I just go to Gwen Stefani’s L.A.M.B. show tonight. firm Laguna Partners LLC. The eveningwear published in October, and her first murder can’t,” said “The whole cast of ‘Rent’ is flying off to L.A. to company has been searching for new financing, mystery, “Live at 10:00, Dead at 10:15,” is Gregory. “I love sing for a fund-raiser for [multiple sclerosis],” and Bennett said his company has already coming out in paperback. In addition, Klensch that this bag is she said. made some nominal investments in the six- just finished writing her third book and is small and fun and I And if she were nominated for an Academy year-old business, and is considering more. starting a fourth. “I need a holiday,” she joked. can still fit my Award for her performance, which of the Fashion is a new area for the Manhattan-based Returning to the fashion scene, Klensch said umbrella in it. And I designers she’s seen this week would she wear? Laguna, which specializes in medical device she noticed that the women in the audience won’t end up walking “Oooh, that’s a tough one,” she replied. “I’d companies. When asked if B. Michael had are now as dressed up as the models, wearing around lopsided.” Jamee probably go with a relatively unknown designer named a new ceo yet following the April lots of skirts and showing a lot of bare legs, She isn’t immune to Gregory to make sure no one else was wearing the departure of Wayne Demar, Bennett replied, which she finds odd. “We’re working people,” an impulse buy, though. same one.” “Not yet, but if I come in, we will.” she said. “I got it Wednesday at Saks,” said Gregory of HEATHER TAKES NOTE: Actress Heather Graham INCH BY INCH: Alicia Keys isn’t opposed to the BACK AGAIN: Lori Rhodes, Shop Etc.’s former her McQueen blouse. took some time off from filming a new TV musicians-turned-designers trend, provided executive marketing director, is back on the “I saw it and I series, “Emily’s Reasons Why Not,” to attend they show some heart. Before Carlos Miele’s fashion beat and back with Jaqui Lividini. The thought it looked so sweet, I some fashion week festivities. In the series, due show Wednesday, she said, “When they have a two worked together at Saks Fifth Avenue’s couldn’t resist.” out next year, Graham plays a fabulous passion for it, the clothes come off beautifully. fashion merchandising and communication STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY 14 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 WWD.COM Delphine’s Wedding Bells ● Harry’s New Leaf ● Oscar Picks Jennifer

celebrate Harry’s birthday Kate Winslet featuring the jaunty prince wearing a green sweater and an open- necked shirt along with his coat of arms. Harry’s grandmother Queen Elizabeth is on the reverse side of the coin. Let’s hear it for Harry’s new leaf. Eschewing (love that word) late-night parties and pub crawls, he spent the day and night quietly with his classmates at Sandhurst, the royal military academy where he is in training. He says he would love to tell everyone how amazing his girlfriend Chelsy Davy is “but you know that is my private life and I am hugely protective of her.” Last week Harry looked spiffy in his morning coat when he joined the rest of his immediate family for the wedding of his step-brother Tom Parker Bowles to fashion writer Sara Buys, where Tom’s mummy the Duchess of Cornwall, godfather Prince Charles and such commoners as Mick Jagger and Hugh Grant were in attendance. Sara wore a glorious cream- colored wedding gown by Alexander McQueen and when she came down the aisle everyone gasped. Ahhh! ● After giving their decorators $4 million and three years to weave what they hoped would be magic, Kate Winslet, her director husband Sam Mendes and their two little children have finally moved into Westcote Manor, their eight- bedroom love nest in the Cotswolds. Among their neighbors are Elizabeth Hurley and Stella McCartney. Kate and Sam bought the ramshackle 14th-century house on Suzy Delphine Courteney Cox 22 acres of land for $6 million. But until By Aileen Mehle Arnault last weekend, they have had to make do in a tiny cottage next door. You will be Social Notes From All Over: Alors, great thrilled to hear that there are oodles of excitement in Paris, mes amis!Such goings- closets for Kate’s clothes, her everyday on this weekend! Monsieur and Madame gear, her glamorous gowns and her big eye® Jean Arnault, Monsieur and Madame shoes — she wears a size 11. Who else Bernard Arnault and Le Comte and La would tell you these things? Maybe the Comtesse Patrice de Maistre have sent out coveted British tabs? invitations to the haute monde for the wedding of ● Mademoiselle Delphine Arnault. Mademoiselle Arnault, Oscar de la Renta, who is celebrating vous savez, is the delicious granddaughter of Jean Arnault, 40 years of designing fabulous frocks, is the divine daughter of the Bernard Arnaults (he is a now gearing up and packing his trunks to towering figure in the fashion firmament owning such take his show on the road. He will be behemoths as Dior, Louis Vuitton and le bon dieu knows flying off to Beverly Hills in October to what else) and the future daughter-in-law of the Comte cohost a fashion show and luncheon and Comtesse. Delphine is marrying Alessandro Vallarino supporting the Revlon-UCLA Breast Gancia Saturday afternoon at the Cathedral Saint-Jean Center at a chic afternoon garden party Baptiste in the French town of Bazas. After the wedding is for over 300 of Beverly Hills’ finest. It celebrated, Madame Bernard Arnault, the Comtesse de will be held at the sprawling estate of Maistre and Madame Hildburg Vallarino Gancia (she is the Colleen and Bradley Bell. Mr. de la Renta groom’s mother) will receive at cocktails and a seated will be welcomed by a star-studded dinner and dance at the famed Chateau d’ Yquem in Bazas, committee, and he and Saks Fifth which Bernard Arnault owns, too. Avenue are pulling out all the stops. The On Sunday, Delphine and Alessandro will entertain the co-chairmen of show are Crystal Moffett guests at a brunch at the Chateau d’ Yquem, after which Lourd and Stephanie Murray, and tip- those who are curious will go tripping through the great toeing through the garden are such chateau’s celebrated wine cellars. expected beauties as Jamie Tisch, Tory ● becomes final in October and Angelina and Brad want to Burch, Eliza Reed Bolen, Alexandra von Furstenberg, and Mull this over and don’t let me know what you think: wait for a suitable time to pass so that their marriage won’t Courteney Cox. Since Oscar is the co-host, you may be George Clooney has offered his dreamy Italian villa in Lake appear to be too rushed. That’s so nice of them, isn’t it? wondering just who his co-host is. Well, it’s Jennifer Como to Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt as an ideal site for Angelina recently met Brad’s parents and is said to Aniston. And Oscar has already personally selected one of their wedding. Supposedly, Angelina and Brad are talking have won them over despite their earlier doubts the gems from his latest collection for darling Jennifer. about getting married early next year after Brad finishes concerning Angelina’s marital record. Brad is said to be ● his film about Jesse James in Canada and Angelina wraps relieved his mother is no longer mad at him about the Te ri Hatcher, one of the “Desperate Housewives,” says up “The Good Shepherd,” which she is filming with way things turned out with Jennifer. All’s well that ends she has had a little help keeping her brunette locks looking Robert De Niro in New York. well — or is it? natural since she was 25 years old. Yesiree, she’s been It is expected that Julia Roberts and her husband, ● coloring her hair to cover up gray spots for 16 years. This Danny Moder; Cindy Crawford and her husband, Rande Hail Brittania! Prince Harry turned 21 Thursday and to timely confession comes just as she signs a lucrative Gerber, and the newly engaged Matt Damon and Luciana mark the momentous occasion his father Prince Charles advertising deal with Clairol and begins her very first Barroso will be on the guest list, but not Angelina’s daddy, commissioned the famous photographer Mario Testino to beauty campaign for the company’s Nice ’n Easy hair dye. Jon Voight. They are still estranged, and as far as that goes, take a series of portraits of his younger son. On top of this, She uses Clairol’s medium brown tone in case you like the maybe forever more. Brad’s divorce from Jennifer Aniston The Royal Mint issued 10,000 copies of a special coin to color of her lush mane. La! WINSLET PHOTO BY DAN MACMEDAN/WIREIMAGE; COX BY ZACK SECKLER; ARNAULT BY STEPHANE FEUGERE BY ZACK SECKLER; ARNAULT DAN MACMEDAN/WIREIMAGE; COX BY WINSLET PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 15 WWD.COM Hot Shots Carolina Herrera NEW YORK — “Is it fun to dress celebs like Renée Zellweger and all these other A-list actresses?” Carmen Electra asked Carolina Herrera as Style Network cameras eye® rolled. And so she set the tone as Cartier moved into Gotham Hall for yet another party with tons of celebrities for its Caresse d’Orchidées collection. “There’s always going to be a celebrity buzz,” said Aerin Lauder, who was lounging in the balcony that overlooked the party. “That’s part of life now.” But the constant red-carpet parade has even left the celebrities a little spent. “I’m tired,” admitted, having Kirsten Dunst Carolyn returned from the flashbulb frenzy that was Murphy the Toronto Film Festival, where she was promoting her flick “Elizabethtown.” “But I’m here because of Jane Mayle. She’s a finalist of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and I’ve worn her clothes since I was 16.” Rachel Weisz has been doing press for “The Constant Gardener” for weeks, but came to Cartier because “I’m friends with Veronica, who does their p.r.” The same seems to go for the social set. “It’s a long night,” said Lauren duPont. (Still, she trudged the whole way down 11th Avenue for Badgley Mischka’s 9 p.m. — more like 9:45 — show. “They’re so sweet,” she explained, “and they’re friends. Plus they wrote on my invitation ‘You have to come!’”) Meanwhile, Rosario Dawson, Michelle Monaghan, Lisa Airan, Carolyn Murphy, Gywneth Roberto Cavalli, Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos, Paltrowltrow inin Margherita Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez Alexander Missoni in sipped chilled champagne to cool McQueen. a Marc by themselves off in the sweltering space. Marc On the other side of town, at Bergdorf Jacobs top. Goodman, Anne McNally, Cathy Horyn, Grace Coddington and David Remnick toasted Michael Roberts and his book, “M.R.,” a collection of his artwork published over the Roberto years in The New Yorker. Anh Duong and Beyoncé Cavalli André Leon Talley humorously posed with Knowles Roberts and a pair of red, oversized scissors. At a more intimate party downtown, revelers joined Gwyneth Paltrow for a screening of her newest film “Proof, ” hosted by Dior and The Cinema Society. Paltrow turned up in a cream knit Alexander McQueen dress, not the Dior she was meant to don. Lazaro Lindsay Lohan, who seems to be hitting Hernandez every party she can get to lately, snuck in with after the screening, posed for some pics Kirsten with Paltrow and promptly left. Beyoncé Dunst in and Jay-Z, meanwhile, came in at the last Mayle. minute and slipped into their seats to watch the movie. They, like guests Marisa Noel Brown, Rufus Albemarle and Tory Burch, all sat raptly through the mathematical drama. “It was great,” said Lindsay Albemarle. “I myself am diametrically the opposite of good at math,” he Lohan in joked. Rena Sindi appeared at the after party held across the street in a Gucci. Dayssi fifth-floor apartment in Richard Meier’s new building, 165 Charles Street. Olarte de The indefatigable Sindi is in town taking a break from apartment shopping Kanavos in London. And Sindi’s already into the London social whirl. “I’m planning a inin party at Annabel’s in November,” she said. “And everyone keeps asking me Christian about my jewelry. It’s so funny, it’s not even sold anywhere yet.” Meanwhile, Dior. Paltrow, trailed discreetly by a security guard, had a long tête-à-tête with Lauren Bacall and caught up with Helena Christensen before heading home to rest up for a flight to L.A. in the morning. But some showed no signs of stopping: Margherita Missoni arrived at midnight with her boyfriend, Ernst August Jr., just as the bar staff was trying to pack up.

Rena Sindi in Roberto Lisa Airan Cavalli with Lisa Airan in custom Tico Mugrabi. in custom Project Alabama.

Michael Trish Goff and Roberts Jack McCollough CARTIER PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; LOHAN AND KNOWLES BY JAMIE MCCARTHY/WIREIMAGE; MISSONI, SINDI AND PALTROW BY BILLY FARRELL/PMC BILLY BY MISSONI, SINDI AND PALTROW JAMIE MCCARTHY/WIREIMAGE; AND KNOWLES BY STEVE EICHNER; LOHAN PHOTOS BY CARTIER 16 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 WWD.COM Stiletto Killers Stalks the Runways

By Julee Greenberg “I’m in the office every day and when Kelly can’t be there, we are in constant communication,” Barone said. NEW YORK — Kelly Osbourne and Ali Barone, best “We seriously talk 20 times a day.” friends for four years and business partners for two, Today, Stiletto Killers is broken into two groups: the have been scouring the fashion shows here this week — sportswear, which consists of graphic T-shirts (some of but it’s for business, not just pleasure. the graphics were designed by Barone, others were “I think we’ve been to about 10 so far and we have a re- drawn on a computer), fitted hoodies (with extralong ally busy day tomorrow,” Osbourne said as she was sleeves) and sweatpants (with a higher rise in the back primped by a hairstylist and a makeup artist in her hotel because “I hate when the ass is showing,” Osbourne room Thursday morning. Osbourne said she will walk in the Heatherette show before attending Gwen Stefani’s show tonight. “Naomi Campbell also asked me to walk in Every other celebrity with a a show for Hurricane Relief tomorrow, so I’ll do that, too.” “ The pair, who launched their own clothing line, clothing line hires people to Stiletto Killers, almost two years ago, is doing research for their own show, which they plan for the Bryant Park design for them... I don’t want to tents next September. do that because I love clothes “Anna Sui let us watch her show from backstage, which was really great of her because we learned a lot and I want to be the one from that,” Osbourne said. Barone and Osbourne appear to be taking their busi- designing them. ness seriously. They began the line two years ago with ” $10,000 to produce the first group of T-shirts. — Kelly Osbourne “We didn’t want to throw a bunch of money into this and then watch it fail,” Osbourne said. “So many people said), wholesaling from $15 to $31. The newer, more ex- have done that….We have friends who have failed at this. pensive extension, called Stiletto Killers Collection, in- We knew we had to start small in order for it to work.” cludes a cashmere blend double-breasted jacket, a pen- Her partner picked up the thought. Ali Barone and Kelly Osbourne on Thursday cil skirt with a bow on the rear and Fifties-inspired “We are growing organically,’’ Barone said. “No li- getting ready for another day of fashion shows. dresses with large buttons and ribbon detailing. That censing. People throw their names on everything these STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY line wholesales from $68 to $210. days and we are not into that at all. We literally started wrote us this mean letter basically telling us that our “For the collection we use expensive fabrics and the this line at the kitchen table one day, sitting there talking line was s---. Whatever. I wasn’t asking for her critique. work that goes into it is so much more intense,” Barone about ex-boyfriends and boy-bashing. We thought of say- She didn’t have to sell it.” said. “But this is what we really wanted to do when we ings like ‘I’m not with stupid anymore’ and things like Osbourne said she is sure the negativity toward the started this line. These are the clothes we want to make.” that. We put them on T-shirts and started from there.” line came from her celebrity as a performer and the Stiletto Killers is sold in about 100 specialty stores, Then, Osbourne said, the samples sat in her house for daughter of rocker Ozzy Osbourne. including the exclusive line designed for Hot Topic. It is about six months before they did anything with them. “Before anything else, I was known for my clothes,” also sold on stilettokillers.com. Osbourne said she is “Our friends started going through them and they she said. “Every other celebrity with a clothing line hires sure more stores will pick up the line now that they were saying how cool they were, so we decided to seri- people to design for them and then just picks what they have a larger range to offer. ously try to sell them,” Osbourne said. “We set up a like from that. The only reason I say that is because I “There are pieces in this line that can be sold every- meeting with Hot Topic and they picked us up. That’s know it’s 100 percent true. I don’t want to do that because where, every store will find something they like,” really when we began selling.” I love clothes and I want to be the one designing them.” Osbourne said. It wasn’t always so easy. And, in fact, she does. She and Barone set up an office “We just need to be able to produce it, so we don’t “Some stores were really f---ing horrible to us,” in the Los Angeles garment district, and it’s the two of them want to get in over our heads,” Barone said. “The worst Osbourne said. “This one woman with a store in Texas working — from the sketches to the buttons, they do it all. thing you can do is not be able to produce.” Trade Show Lineup Cousins’ Knitting Spins Into New York Set for Vegas in Feb. NEW YORK — With a bandanna tied around the top of Cousins assiduously courts celebrities, who attend her head, and her neck and hands weighed down by knitting classes at her store on Beverly Boulevard. LOS ANGELES — The February installment of heavy silver jewelry, Suss Cousins looks more like a “I have people who’ve come for years and people MAGIC International, which usually is immediately biker chick than a member of a knitting circle. who come and go,” she said. “Uma Thurman, Julia before or after the President’s Day holiday, returns But Cousins, dubbed “the Scandinavian Martha Roberts and Sandra Bullock come into the store all the to the Las Vegas Convention Center Feb. 21–24. Stewart,” has built a lifestyle company based on the time. Rose McGowan and Kirsty Hume knit. Actresses The Tuesday-to-Friday schedule after the Feb. quaint domestic pursuit. Now she’s sit around a lot and wait for their 20 holiday will result in a slight change in orbit for bringing the knitting lifestyle to New turn. With knitting, you can use your the satellite shows and six back-to-back days of ap- York with an 1,800-square-foot store hands and brain and Zen out.” parel-related trade shows. at 281 Lafayette Street that is to open The entertainment industry actu- The Exclusive is showing in its new home at the on Saturday. ally launched her career. When Bill Sands Expo Convention Center Feb. 19-21, the Pool Cousins worked with yarn long be- Cosby’s stylist saw some of her Tradeshow Feb. 20-22 (venue to be determined) fore knitting became stylish and sweaters, she knew “The Cosby and Project Las Vegas starting Feb.19 and running shops and cafes devoted to the craft Show” had to have them. Cousins an extra day to Feb. 22, also at the Sands. began popping up in cities across the made cardigans for the Tom Hanks “We saw the crowds on the last day,” said U.S. She began knitting at age seven movie, “The Road to Perdition,” de- Project’s founder Sam Ben-Avraham about the to pass the time during Scandinavia’s signed knitwear for “Scoobie Doo” longer show. “It was obvious that three days are long winters. and produced 250 sweaters for “How not enough.” “That’s what we do in the dark,” the Grinch Stole Christmas.” The first day will be invitation-only — vendors she said. “Knitting is an old tradition She’s written three books, will do business with select buyers before opening and a lifestyle. I used to live with all “Hollywood Knits,” “Hollywood to the masses on Feb. 20. this yarn around me.” Knits Style: A Guide to Good The February run has fallen after the federal Cousins has turned the national Knitting and Good Living” (Stewart, holiday for three of the last four years and last ran hobby into a woolly empire. She an- Tabori & Chang) and the upcoming on a Tuesday-through-Friday schedule in 2003. ticipates doing $600,000 at retail in “Suss Home,” published by “It fluctuates, depending on the market and the the new store, selling exclusive yarns Clarkson Potter.

availability of the convention center,” said MAGIC and finished pieces priced from $140 SHANA NOVAK PHOTO BY “A whole new generation is inter- spokeswoman Ernae Mothershed. “Over the last to $300. Her collection may generate Suss Cousins in her new Lafayette ested in knitting,” Cousins said. few years we’ve been fairly consistent in a window $400,000 at wholesale in the next year Street shop. “Sept. 11 definitely had something to right before or right after the holiday but we have at stores such as Nordstrom, Neiman do with it.” hit as early as January and as late as March.” Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Scoop and Intermix. The store, with Japanese and Scandinavian influ- Also returning to the Sands will be the ASAP “I’m launching a Red Label cashmere collection at ences, has a large worktable and bins holding brightly Global Sourcing Show, Feb. 20-23, and the Las Suss New York,” she said. “It will be very classic colored yarns. Branches, wooden mannequins and Vegas Off-Price Specialist Show, Feb. 19-23. WWIN pieces, big turtlenecks, long belted sweaters and tu- knit hangers show off the finished product. An antique returns to the Rio Convention Center Feb. 20-23 nics with scarves.” spinning wheel bought online by Cousins hangs from and KIDShow Las Vegas shows at the Riviera Feb. Some items will be embellished with embroidery, the ceiling. Whether she can spin yarn into gold re- 20-22. Austrian crystal beads and sequins, with prices from mains to be seen. — Adam Tschorn $175 to $400. — Sharon Edelson WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 17 WWD.COM Dumas Passes Reins at Hermès Continued from page one Patrick Thomas, 58, an Hermès veteran who rejoined the firm in 2003 and was named co-ceo last year, will take sole control of the management helm. “[Dumas] was a giant. When I was told I would succeed the giant, I felt very small,” Thomas told WWD. “He has a fantastic, creative mind…and he is known as an outstanding businessman. He’s a poet and a grocer at the same time.” While the announcement seemed sudden, Thomas said preparations for Dumas’ retirement were quietly set in motion several years ago and health rea- sons did not precipitate Thursday’s bombshell. “There is nothing new in his health which would justify this change,” Thomas said. “He is still active in the company, although less so than before. He’s gradu- ally reducing his involvement.” Dumas — who effortlessly imbued disparate product categories with the soigné but lighthearted Hermès spirit — will be succeeded as artistic direc- tor by his son, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, and his niece, Pascale Mussard, 48, as joint artistic director. The younger Dumas, 39, was named deputy artistic director in 2002 after leading Hermès subsidiaries in Great Britain and, before that, Hong Kong. Mussard, a 25-year veteran of the company, rose through the ranks of press attaché to direct advertis- ing and communications departments and then win- dow display. As part of behind-the-scenes efforts to prepare for Dumas’ eventual departure, she was also named an artistic deputy in 2002. Dumas senior was not available for further com- ment. Yet in a statement reminiscent of his quirky yet heartfelt Hermès initiatives like the “Year of the Hand” and the company’s heavy sponsorship of the arts, he said, “It is with the utmost confidence, and with the unanimous approval of the board that I will hand over the reins of our family house to Patrick [Thomas] and to the executive committee which works with him. From the roots of Hermès, they will know how to draw the sap for the new branches that will grow in response to the dreams of our client.” Dumas announced his exit on the same day A fall Hermès reported an 11.9 percent jump in net profits Hermès to 109.1 million euros, or $140.3 million at average runway exchange rates, which sent shares up 1.7 percent to looklook byby close at 182.90 euros, or $235.27, on the Paris bourse. Jean Paul The market is bound to look upon the changing of Gaultier.Gaultier. the guard as a watershed moment for a company that is widely viewed as one of the most attractive Jean-Louis Dumas targets for acquisitive luxury conglomerates. “Inevitably, the news should revive speculative interest for the stock,” HSBC analyst Antoine Belge The Hermès the world, and 36 other sales points. wrote in a research note. However, he went on to say, “We believe building in Hermès took a 35 percent stake in the transition should go smoothly” and that Dumas’ departure Tokyo. Gaultier in 1999 and a 31.5 percent “does not imply that there will be a change in control.” stake in German camera firm Leica in Earlier this month, speculation mounted in Europe that 2000 based on Dumas’ belief that Belgian financier Albert Frère was about to take a minority Hermès can learn from others. stake in Hermès, which both parties dismissed as unfounded. “Professionally, if people consider And on Thursday, Hermès decided to stop the rumor mill themselves on the summit, they can only in its tracks. go down,” he once said. “The family has asked me to say that they plan to hold on The first-half results disclosed to their shares more than ever,” Thomas said firmly. “They Thursday confirm Hermès is adding its have no plans whatsoever to sells shares of the company. The horsepower to a turbocharged luxury family is more united than ever.” sector. Members of the Hermès family control 74 percent of Fueled by a pickup in Europe in the shares, and the company’s statutes prevent any unfriendly second quarter and “robust” sales in its advances. Any change in management cannot be affected American stores, Hermès said operating without gaining the support of at least 66 percent of shares. profits grew 12.8 percent to 171.2 mil- Sixteen members of the fifth-generation of the Hermès- lion euros, or $220.2 million, for the six Dumas families are shareholders, Thomas said. There are an months ended June 30. What’s more, a additional 40 family members in the sixth generation, but not marked improvement in Japan during all are shareholders. July and August underlines an upbeat Thomas stressed Thursday the philosophy and strategy of stance for the balance of 2005. Hermès would not change once Dumas exits and that “all the “We are confident because the trend skills remain in the company.” is good in all parts of the world,” said A charismatic and colorful executive with a gentle manner, Mireille Maury, executive vice presi- Dumas helped propel the company to 2004 sales of 1.33 billion Un Jardin sur le dent of finance and administration. She declined to quantify the increase for the sum- euros, or $1.64 billion, on a foundation of solid self-financing Nil fragrance. mer months, but in the first half, the uptick in Japan was a slim 1.7 percent. and a belief that true luxury runs deep. By product category, she noted a 9 percent increase in rtw collections. Last year, That his office on the Faubourg Saint-Honoré is mere steps from where workers production snafus with Gaultier’s first collection had weighed on sales. piece together custom-order Birkin bags and saddles speaks volumes about his pas- The 6 percent increase in high-margin leather goods sales was a disappointment to sion for creativity and quality. analysts. Maury blamed insufficient production capacity to meet high demand for “You look with your eyes at an Hermès product, but you can also feel a product in Hermès’ coveted handbags. other ways,” he said in a rare interview in 2002. “It can also be about the sound of a As reported, sales in the period rose 4.6 percent to 629.1 million euros, or $809.2 clasp that a handbag makes, the smell of the leather.” million. At constant exchange, the increase stood at 6.2 percent. Born on Feb. 2, 1938, Dumas is a fifth-generation descendant of harness maker In the first half, Hermès allocated part of 58 million euros, or $74.6 million, in capi- Thierry Hermès, who founded a company in 1837 that would go on to add saddles, tal expenditures to increase leather goods production capacity. The money also went leather goods, ready-to-wear, silk scarves and all manner of fashion accessories. to acquire the building that houses its boutique on Avenue George V here and to ex- After graduating from Paris’ prestigious Political Science Institute, Jean-Louis pand the retail network. Dumas started as an assistant buyer for Bloomingdale’s in New York in 1963. A year Of eight new Hermès locations this year, six are slated to open in the second half, later, he joined Hermès, ultimately becoming general manager in 1971. He stepped including a second outlet in Beijing and its first in Athens, Maury said. Thanks partly into the role as chairman after the death of his father, Robert Dumas, in 1978. to the retail expansion, Hermès said it expects sales growth to accelerate in the run- Over his career, he saw Hermès acquire luxury shoemaker John Lobb; christen up to the holiday selling season. major flagships, like its 11-story glass brick tower in Tokyo’s Ginza district, and hire un- Looking ahead to 2006, key openings include an Hermès House in Seoul and an ex- expected, edgy talents like Martin Margiela and, more recently, Jean Paul Gaultier, to pansion of Dumas’ prized Tokyo flagship. — With contributions from Emilie Marsh

DUMAS PORTRAIT BY ROBERTO FRANKENBERG; RUNWAY PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY RUNWAY FRANKENBERG; ROBERTO BY DUMAS PORTRAIT design its women’s ready-to-wear. Today, Hermès products are sold in 237 stores around 18 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005

The Beauty Report WWD.COM

Vivienne Tam; Ashley The Eyes Have It Ward/MAC Cosmetics NEW YORK — Looks as if makeup artists have caught the glimmer train for spring. From silvery shimmer at Matthew Williamson to hints of gold at Temperley London, eyes are sparkling aplenty — on the brow bone, the eyelid, even in the corners. And it’s not just the expected precious metal shades showing up on runways — chartreuse shimmer showed up at Vivienne Tam, while Marc Jacobs; Dick Dick Page chose a glimmery vanilla at Page/Shiseido Michael Kors. Call it “eye do.”

Badgley Mischka; Tom Pecheux/MAC Cosmetics

Michael Kors; Dick Diane von Furstenberg; DVF Beauty Carolina Herrera; Page/MAC Cosmetics Diane Kendal/MAC Oscar de la Renta; Rafael Cosmetics Pita/MAC Cosmetics

Anna Sui; Pat McGrath

Temperley London; Charlotte Tilbury/MAC Cosmetics Matthew Williamson; Charlotte Tilbury/MAC Cosmetics PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN

20 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 The Beauty Report Carol’s Daughter Gives Birth to New Store NEW YORK — Carol’s Daughter is ready to show off its newest offspring: a store in Harlem. The kitchen area. The hair, skin care and home products brand officially opened its 1,800-square- foot space on 125th Street Thursday night, with three of the brand’s main investors, entertainers Jada Pinkett Smith, Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter and Thalia, in attendance. The fledgling company got a little help from Carter, who slid behind a cash register. Asked about the price of a product, he replied, “I’m not sure, it’s a new system.” Carter is now going by the name “Shawn,” rather than Jay-Z, because “I’m a big executive now.” The opening hit a festive note when the staff sang “Happy Birthday” for Pinkett Smith. In addition to the investors, well-wishers included Carter’s girlfriend, Beyoncé Knowles. Jada Turning to the question of site selection, the choice Pinkett of locale for the brand’s second store was deliberate, Smith said Steve Stoute, the entertainment mogul who bro- kered the deal between founder Lisa Price and a con- stellation of Hollywood heavyweights in May. “We could have chosen SoHo,” said Stoute, “but the history and the heritage of Harlem are very important to us as African-Americans. Harlem was one of the first places to be synonymous with Afri- can-American success. Over the last 25 to 30 years, the cachet was lost — but a renaissance started four to five years ago. It’s very important that we contribute to making this an even more vibrant A wall of interlaced retail area.” A wall of interlaced A range of conditioners. However, Stoute isn’t completely ruling SoHo stones in the out. “We may go there next,” he said, “but we had to bathroom vignette. start here.” The Harlem location is designed to exude a homey feeling, including a kitchen space with a butcher-block top, where soap bricks can be cut, and a bathroom vignette, complete with zinc bathtub, which will feature seasonal displays of products. “Both of these were important because they represent two parts of the brand,” said Price. “I started making prod- ucts in my kitchen, and you use most of them in the bathroom.” Light-wood floors and display cases, flanked by comfortable sitting areas, create a cozy feel. Fanciful chan- deliers round out the mix. “Carol’s Daughter is treating the Harlem store as Louis Vuitton treats its Fifth Avenue store,” said Stoute. “This store represents the vision we’re after, and every- A product arrangement. thing we do with our retail partners in the future will be influenced by it.” Stoute said the first of several planned retail partners will be announced in the near future, and the brand plans to open a number of its own freestanding stores, including one in Atlanta and one in Washington in 2006. The Harlem store shares DNA with its Fort Greene, Brooklyn, sister, but Price was particularly excited about one aspect of her new space: “The Brooklyn store grew in a typical entrepreneurial way,” she said. “When we had money, we developed differ- ent parts of it. With this store, we were able to do things exactly as we wanted from the beginning. This store is Carol’s Daughter a little more grown up.” — Julie Naughton

The shelves are topped with evocative images.images.

One of the seating areas in the back of the store.

An inviting display.

The line is comprised of more than 300 products. A fanciful chandelier. PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 21

WWD.COM Dream Ball Raises $2.6 Million Diddy Designs to Fund NEW YORK — Despite the death and havoc caused by Hurricane Katrina and the ongoing dislocations in the department store business, the beauty industry’s fund-raising appara- tus was in fine shape this week. Organizers of the Dream Ball generated more than $2.6 million for the American Cancer Society and the Look Good Feel Better program of the Breast Cancer Research Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association — up from last year’s tally of $2.2 million. One of the honorees, E. Scott Beattie, chairman and chief executive officer of Elizabeth Arden, arrived on the arm of Catherine Zeta-Jones, who appears in his company’s adver- NEW YORK — What’s in a name? Ask tising. Beattie, who previously worked in investment banking and finance, drew some com- Evelyn Lauder. parisons. “I cannot name an industry that has a higher level of corporate integrity and Lauder, founder of the Breast Cancer common sense values [than beauty’s],” Beattie said, adding that the industry’s “high stan- Research Foundation and senior corpo- dard of ethical and corporate performance” has resulted in companies being cited as the rate vice president of the Estée Lauder “best managed or the best companies to work for globally.” Cos., joked to a packed crowd at the But it was Beattie’s background that was cited in putting the fund-raising over the top. BCRF’s Pink Slip Party Wednesday night Both Pamela Baxter, event chairman and president and ceo of LVMH Perfumes & at the Bryant Park Grill that she wasn’t Cosmetics, North America, and Dan Brestle, contributions chairman and chief operating sure how to introduce one of her co-hosts. officer of the Estée Lauder Cos., credited Beattie’s ability to tap new funding sources. “Are you going to change your name again?” she playfully asked Sean “Diddy” Combs, who shared co-hosting duties with Lauder and Elizabeth Hurley. When Combs shook his head, Lauder said, “OK. I’m Evie, this is Lizzy and he’s Evelyn Lauder Diddy.” and Sean The Pink Slip Party serves as the “Diddy” Combs kickoff to the BCRF’s annual awareness Williamilliam LauderLauder Terry Darland, Lisa Hawkins, campaign — and the cause will get a fi- Elizabeth and Barbara Bill Dillard and Deborah Walters nancial boost from the artist formerly Hurley known as P. Diddy. Combs, under the Zinn-Moore Pam Baxter. and Kate Oldham. auspices of his new Sean by Sean Combs women’s line, designed a limited-edition pink camisole, which will be sold exclu- sively at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street and SoHo stores. All proceeds from the $85 item will be donated to the BCRF. “I get invited to do a lot of things, but I am honored to design this,” said Combs, calling Lauder “his muse” on the project. Dan Brestle, Kate E. Scott Beattie Donna To date, the BCRF has raised more White, Michael Clinton and Catherine Kalajian than $117 million to fund breast cancer and Cathie Black. Zeta-Jones Lagani research. The Foundation plans to award $22 million in grants to 110 can- Beattie, however, was more intent on complimenting the industry. He saluted Carolyn cer researchers this year. Deaver for the 15 years she spent building the Look Good Feel Better program for cancer — Julie Naughton patients before retiring in June. His testimonial was seconded by Pamela G. Bailey, the new CTFA president and ceo, who thanked Deaver for “what she has built, what she has given to so many women over the years.” That sparked a standing ovation from the crowd of 800 packed into the Grand Ballroom of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel here. Beattie’s co-honoree was Donna Kalajian Lagani, senior vice president and publishing Frydmans Exit Marionnaud director of Cosmopolitan magazine. She was introduced by Brestle, who injected some PARIS — Marcel Frydman and his two sons, Gerald and Jean-Pierre, humor in the form of good-natured teasing. “It says rate base increase here,” he said while have just left the house they built over 20 years — Marionnaud reading a prepared speech. “But I think rate increase is appropriate.” As he continued to Parfumeries. Their departure took place seven months after Hong Kong- sing her praises, Brestle paused and exclaimed with a laugh, “Who wrote this? I feel like based A.S. Watson, a subsidiary of Hutchison Whampoa, acquired the I’m doing a commercial.” French perfumery chain. Lagani waxed poetic about her life in the cosmetics industry, beginning with her first Hugues Witvoet has replaced Marcel Frydman at Marionnaud’s helm. job “selling cosmetics behind the counter at Bonwit Teller.” She continued, “One of the Since May, Witvoet had been the company’s deputy managing director things I’m most proud of in our business is how generously our industry gives back. I al- and was formerly president of LVMH Investment Asia and also of LVMH ways believed that, as a woman, beauty is the most seductive accessory, even more so than Fashion Group. Ian Wade, group managing director of A.S. Watson Group my Manolos.” She concluded, “The real magic of beauty is its power to heal the spirit.” and administrator of Marionnaud, succeeds Frydman as president of That certainly seemed true, judging from the remarks of Kristen Guess, the “dream Marionnaud’s board. girl” of the program, who had entered the Look Good program after undergoing In a statement issued by Marionnaud, the company explained: chemotherapy and radiation treatments at age 34. “Following the announcement in July of its project to close Marionnaud “I’m an absolute makeup person,” she confessed with a laugh. “I probably put half of your Parfumeries’ capital and to proceed with delisting its shares from Paris kids through college [buying cosmetics] and it helped me to look as normal as possible. I Euronext’s Eurolist, A.S. Watson decided to provide the enterprise’s wanted to get through it with some dignity, I didn’t want sympathetic glances. I could throw management with professionals with complimentary expertise to re- on my wig and apply tremendous amounts of makeup and I could come back from the cancer spond to an urgent need to improve the performance of the company and hell I was living. Please keep up the great work you’re doing — it makes a difference.” its financial situation.” — Bryn Kenny and Pete Born PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY 22 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005

The Beauty Report WWD.COM Cosmetics Line Fit for a Queen NEW YORK — The Queen has spoken — and she wants quality, Pritchard believes the Queen products will bring new shop- affordable cosmetics for women of all colors. pers to Cover Girl’s department. “This is incremental business Queen Latifah held court at BB King’s on Manhattan’s 42nd and retailers have been willing to give us two more feet,” he Street Tuesday evening to announce the Cover Girl Queen said. The products will be merchandised as part of the exist- Collection, a color cosmetics line targeted to women of color. ing Cover Girl wall. Although packaging will not bear her Latifah has been a spokeswoman for Cover Girl since 2001 image, Latifah will appear on in-store promotional materials and in that time she’s heard women of all ethnic backgrounds and will star in a national print campaign specifically for the beg for more beauty choices. “When I first started in the busi- Queen Collection. ness, there was one color to pick from [for African-American Retailers who have seen the line said they applaud Cover women] and that sometimes turned you green and ashy,” re- Girl’s efforts and are especially excited about Queen Latifah’s called Latifah, who is known not only as a rapper, but as an ac- endorsement. “Celebrities certainly sell things right now and tress, producer and pitchwoman for various products. “I’m out Queen Latifah has enormously loyal fans,” said one major with the people and they want what’s on the cutting edge, but mass merchant. She cautioned that getting the merchandise what’s affordable and accessible.” into the right stores will be the major challenge. Joking that she wanted to get on the endorsement bandwag- ● ● ● on like many celebrities, Latifah turned serious about her rela- Marc Walgreen Co. also recognizes the importance of offering tionship with Procter & Gamble’s Cover Girl. “You don’t need Pritchard products for women of color. The nation’s largest drugstore by me to promote the newest electronic product. It was a no- and Queen sales tapped Beverly Hills cosmetic surgeon Jan Adams to brainer to partner with Cover Girl,” added Latifah, who serves Latifah launch an exclusive skin care line for women with medium to as a spokeswoman for Pizza Hut and Curvation intimate dark skin tones. Called the Dr. Jan Adams Women of apparel. She said her relationship with Cover Girl is a Cover Girl’s Queen Color Total Skin Care System, the line includes a facial “long-term deal that will expand.” Collection will bow cleanser, microdermabrasion treatment, face and body Marc Pritchard, president, global retail hair color, in select cities in SPF 30 moisturizer, skin lightener and night replenish- cosmetics and personal care for P&G, pointed out that January. ing cream. Cover Girl was the first beauty company to feature an Adams is recognized as one of the world’s leading ex- African-American model, Lana Ogilvie, and that the perts on skin care for ethnic women. “People with dark- company has worked in tandem with many notable er complexions age differently from Caucasians and black women over the years, including Brandy. P&G also often experience hyperpigmentation, scarring and has the license for Iman cosmetics fronted by the famed blotchiness if special care is not taken to use the appro- black model. priate products,” he said. The Queen Collection includes foundation, lip color, Research shows that women of African, Latin, Asian, lip gloss, lip pencil, eye shadow quads, mascara, eyeliner Arab and Mediterranean and Native American descent and nail color. Prices range from $3.49 to $6.49 — in line often have difficulty finding skin care products that ad- with general market Cover Girl products. Although there dress their specific needs. “Our customers are as di- is a current rush to add celebrity fragrances, Cover Girl verse as the communities we serve,” said Catherine does not plan a Queen scent at this time, although a com- Lindner, Walgreens divisional vice president and gener- pany spokeswoman didn’t rule it out for the future. al merchandise manager for beauty and fashion. “With the ad- The Cover Girl Queen Collection will launch in 18 cities in dition of the Women of Color line, Walgreens offers customers a January 2006: Baltimore, Washington, Chicago, Atlanta, Critical Mass more tailored approach to their quest for flawless skin.” Philadelphia, Detroit, Houston, Dallas, Miami, Los Angeles, New Walgreens already offers an exclusive cosmetics line, IsaDora, York, Memphis, San Francisco, Cleveland, St. Louis, Sacramento, By Faye Brookman and joins other mass marketers such as CVS as they seek to sell Calif., Cincinnati and Pittsburgh. The line will also be available for upscale lines only found at their doors. CVS has an exclusive anti- purchase on the Cover Girl Web site this fall. Latifah said she aging skin line backed by a dermatologist called Skin Effects, as hopes to make store appearances to support the line. Industry sources said the Queen well as its proprietary Lumene line. Rite Aid has a limited exclusive on Mod Spa, a col- collection could easily hit sales exceeding $10 million within the first two years. lection of skin and bath items. Retailers said Cover Girl executives used zip codes to determine which stores within ● ● ● a chain were suitable for the line. Pritchard, however, said the process is going much Several retailers remembered Bonne Bell’s Jesse A. Bell deeper. “We are working with many factors to determine the right stores and meeting Sr. as a major fixture in the Seventies and Eighties at chain with all our retail partners. We want to do this right — we think this is the best way to drugstore meetings. “He attended most NACDS [National start,” he told WWD. Association of Chain Drug Stores meetings] and was very Getting it right will be crucial for Cover Girl since many of its manufacturing tuned into the industry,” said one buyer. Jeanette Solomon, a competitors have tried with mixed success in marketing to women of color. The former K&B buyer for more than 30 years, added, “He was mass market has long struggled with finding the right formula for offering multicul- really someone who helped create many of the ideas that are tural brands. Shoppers sometimes tune out brands that are just focused on black or still used today in cosmetics.” Buyers who recall him said he Hispanic women, yet are also in need of special formulations traditional Caucasian had lively discussions about the mass market beauty busi- labels lack. Revlon launched and subsequently eliminated two brands for black ness and often was seen browsing stores looking for ideas. women — ColorStyle and Polished Ambers. Maybelline also failed with a line called Bell, 80, died on Sept. 4 in his hometown of Lakewood, Shades of You. Many manufacturers, including Cover Girl, claimed the conventional Ohio, from complications of a heart condition. He took shade assortment was broad enough for women of all colors. over as president of the family-owned business founded Currently, the main lines available in food, drug and mass market stores for by his father in 1959 and oversaw the meteoric rise of the women of color include Black Radiance, Black Opal, Posner, Milani, Tropez, Uptown youth-oriented brand until his son assumed the role of Girl, Zuri and Prestige (which recently adopted a multicultural positioning). There chief executive officer in 1999. Recently, the company are also few choices in department stores, leaving many women with darker skin brought back an item made popular during his leadership Jesse A. Bell Sr. tones to gravitate to lines with a wide array of shades such as MAC. — a jumbo Lip Smacker. Iman Mobilizes City Mayors, Kicks Off Book Tour NEW YORK — Iman stood alongside The idea behind the initiative is to meet the needs of women with skin color Mayor Bloomberg at City Hall here last spark a national dialogue among women (Iman notes that terms such as “ethnic” week as he declared Oct. 15 New York that encourages them to celebrate their and “women of color” are outdated). City’s official “Beauty of Color individual features, explained Iman. Iman threads words of empowerment Celebration Day.” The proclamation “We really have to acknowledge our and self-acceptance throughout the book, kicked off Iman’s 10-city tour to promote beauty before anyone else will,” said Iman. which is brimming with photographs of her new book, “The Beauty of Color: The Iman, who celebrated the 10th women from around the world, makeup Ultimate Beauty Guide for Skin of Color,” anniversary of her cosmetics company tips and insights from beauty icons such as due in bookstores Oct. 11. last year, bills “The Beauty of Color” as the Naomi Campbell, Venus and Serena October through November, during first beauty and makeup book to truly Williams, Eva Mendes, Kimora Lee each stop of Iman’s tour, the mayor of each address skin tones across the color Simmons and Alicia Keys. city — namely Washington; Memphis; spectrum — a philosophy that also The book’s forward is written by Salma Atlanta; Ft. Lauderdale, Fla.; Miami; underpins Iman Cosmetics. Early on in Hayek, who wrote, “People often say that Houston; Dallas; Detroit; Chicago, and Iman’s modeling career, she began mixing ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder,’ and I Los Angeles — also will proclaim a foundations to match her skin tone after say that the most liberating thing about Iman and “Beauty of Color Celebration Day.” The makeup artists continually asked, “Did beauty is realizing that you are the Mayor tour, true to the contents of the book, will you bring your own foundation?” In 1994, beholder.” Bloomberg include makeovers during book signings. she created a makeup line specifically to — Molly Prior 91% of Shape readers exercise to look good in their clothes Surprised? You shouldn’t be. Who fits into a pair of designer jeans without hitting the gym once in a while? The fact is — active women are the real fashion divas. Say hello to the audience that spends $7.3 billion on fashion and beauty — more than the readers of Allure, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Lucky, Marie Claire and Self. Everyone wants to be in Shape.

To find out more about what women want, ask your Shape representative about our all-new 2005 Women’s Lifestyle Report — conducted by The Intelligence Group/Youth Intelligence — or call Diane Newman, SVP/Group Publisher at 212.545.4896.

Young. Smart. Rich. Sexy.

Source: 2004 Shape Health & Fitness Attitudinal Study, Beta Research Corporation. Spending data is from the MRI Spring 2005 Report, based on total audience. Annual spending includes: clothing, jewelry, shoes, health & beauty aids, beauty salon and perfume expenditures. Lucky is a prototype. 24 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005

The Beauty Report WWD.COM A Vintage Year for Parfums Givenchy

REIMS, France — A vineyard that has suffered can produce great wines. of the bottle, but on the heart of the perfume — the juice itself.” In a similar vein, amid today’s tough climate for prestige perfumery, Parfums Lorenzo said he was struck by the similarities between fine wines and fine fra- Givenchy expects its latest fragrance project to be an excellent vintage. grances when eluxury.com, the LVMH-owned e-commerce venture he headed up Dubbed the Harvest Collection, the line comprises three scents from Givenchy’s ex- after leaving Givenchy in 2000, launched a site dedicated to champagne. isting portfolio. Each has been reworked to highlight key ingredients culled from har- “It was incredible,” he said. “[The descriptions of champagnes] read almost like vests judged by perfumers to be of above-average quality. The new “vintages” will be fragrance descriptions, with the same words.” rolled out in the coming months, beginning in December and continuing next spring. The crop for Amarige Harvest 2005 came from the Tanneron hills in Southern Alain Lorenzo, who retook the reins of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned France between Jan. 20 and Feb. 20 this year. Parfums Givenchy last year after giving up the post in 2000, likened the collection’s Also getting the vintage treatment will be Organza, which is to be reworked concept to that of champagne. He explained that, to maintain consistent stan- around a harvest of Indian jasmine, and Very Irresistible Givenchy, dards of flavor and quality, every 12 months champagne companies blend re- which will be infused with Bulgarian rose from the Valley of Roses. serve wines from prior years’ harvests with the current year’s crus (growths). In the U.S., Amarige Harvest 2005 will bow in December in the “When there’s a great year, they stop blending and there is a vintage,” 500 doors where Givenchy is staffed with selling specialists who can said Lorenzo. explain the concept to consumers. The Organza special edition will Like champagne, the ingredients used in Givenchy’s scents are a follow in March and Very Irresistible Givenchy will bow in May for blend of ingredients culled from several harvests. With the launch Mother’s Day, according to Pamela Baxter, president and chief ex- of the new line, however, the house will create special juices to ecutive officer of LVMH Perfume and Cosmetics. The rest of the celebrate exceptional harvests of particular ingredients. world will get the trio together in 2006. The first scent to be remixed was Amarige. Originally creat- The scents are packaged in their original bottles, with some sub- ed in 1991, the juice has recently been reworked to showcase tle changes. The outer packaging, for example, is transparent and the mimosa harvested this year in Grasse, France. The original covered with stylized images of each scent’s key ingredient. A label scent’s juice comprises top notes of mandarin leaf and orange indicating the origin and year of the harvest also decorates the box. blossom, followed by mimosa, jasmine, ylang-ylang and gardenia The harvest concept is explained on the back and on a leaflet inside. notes. The 2005 version features the “green sensation” of the 2005 Upping the luxury quotient is also a price tag 20 percent higher mimosa harvest in its top notes along with tender orange blossom than the fragrances’ original versions, with the new edition priced Parfum Givenchy’s Amarige. notes. Heart notes highlight the mimosa absolute’s “rich and gener- at $65 in the U.S., compared with $55 regularly. ous” quality. The base notes of the juice accentuate mimosa’s pow- Like fine wine, quantities will be limited. Givenchy bought dery aspects. Mimosa makes up about 25 percent of the new formula, compared with enough mimosa to make about 80,000 bottles of Amarige, or “a couple of percent” of about 10 percent in the original. the brand’s usual global volume, Lorenzo said during a subsequent interview in Like vintage champagne, the collection is meant to represent true luxury. It’s a New York. About 100,000 flacons will be produced of Organza, with Very Irresistible concept Lorenzo is keen to underscore in today’s market, which has become banal- Givenchy perhaps clocking up slightly more. ized in part, due to the nonstop torrent of eaux that are flooding the market. Givenchy will focus on pushing the scents at points of sale rather than in adver- “We need to do something to put the perceived value back into the product, oth- tising. “When we created this, it was not about marketing,” said Lorenzo. “It was erwise it’s at risk of becoming a commodity,” he said at a press conference held about making wonderful-smelling fragrances.” here. “We found the idea was not to focus on the face of the fragrance or the shape — Brid Costello Davidoff’s Spritz of Sophistication Stone Signs With Dior PARIS — After targeting men that are Thierry de Baschmakoff of Aesthete NEW YORK — Sharon Stone’s penchant for baring young and men that are hip, Davidoff is created Silver Shadow’s vertical, heavy her skin is notorious. So it seems only fitting that going after the true sophisticate this glass bottle. For the Pure Blend ver- she’s signed on to be the new face of Dior skin care, fall with Silver Shadow. sion, the front and back have a black rather than fronting a fragrance like so many of her The new men’s scent, created by lacquered effect so the scent’s amber- celebrity cohorts. Davidoff and its fragrance license-hold- colored juice is only apparent through The official announcement will be made in Paris er, Lancaster (Coty Inc.’s prestige divi- the flacon’s sides. on Oct. 4, where Stone is also slated to attend the sion), is for “modern Epicureans” ex- Peter Lindberg photographed the showing of the Dior collection later that evening, said pected to be in the 35-to-45 age range, Silver Shadow advertisement, which Dior executives. Stone will be the face of the compa- according to executives. features a black-and-white shot of a ny’s Capture brand. Each Davidoff franchise is meant for man gazing outward. The tag line of the Print ads will launch sometime next spring, timed a different sort of man. While Cool Water single- and double-page spreads reads: to coincide with the release of the actress’ next star- has core users 18 to 35 Lead the way. ring role in “Basic Instinct 2.” years old, Echo is posi- Mariez said the media — Jenny B. Fine Sharon Stone tioned for young urban plan is not classic; in- guys, according to Fran- stead, the idea is for çoise Mariez, senior vice Silver Shadow’s ad to president of European appear “in the press, Cartwheeling to Better Loyalty fragrances at Lancaster. where you usually do She added Silver not see perfume” — in By Meredith Derby been in the market for maybe 10 to 15 Shadow is “for mature newspapers, for in- years, [but] the reality is that the [re- men with real seduction.” stance. Ads running on NEW YORK — Most retail executives tailer’s] expertise to develop this is They might be the same TV will be as 5-, 10-, 15- likely would sell their souls in order really still in its infancy.” guys driven to dream and 20-second spots. to see data from their customer loyal- Most retailers have seen unsatisfac- about a Silver Shadow Sampling for the new ty programs put to good use and di- tory progress with loyalty programs, ac- Rolls Royce car, although fragrance is to include rectly benefit comparable-store sales. cording to Aronson, because many ex- there is no link between vials, sprays, scented Now, they may have an answer to isting programs center on discount the two. strips and miniatures. that wish: Cartwheel LLC. cards that don’t adequately reward Francis Kurdjian, of While Lancaster exec- Founded in July 2003 by Larry loyal customers. For example, in the Quest International, cre- utives refused to discuss Aronson, former president of North case of New York-based Duane Reade, ated its woody Oriental numbers, sources esti- American sales and customer market- the company’s Dollar Rewards dis- juice. For Silver Shad- mate Silver Shadow will ing for Revlon Inc., and John Wilson, count card loyalty program had not Silver Shadow by Davidoff. ow, he was inspired by ring up $20 million in former marketing director at Pfizer been effective in driving customers the rigor of Zino Davidoff, Davidoff ’s wholesale volume in its first year. Inc., Cartwheel augments existing loy- back to the store. founder, in running the firm and mak- The fragrance is to be launched in alty data with its proprietary method- The drug chain became Cartwheel’s ing made-to-measure clothing. The Europe and the Middle East starting in ology called ShopperMapping. first client in 2004, and Dollar Rewards juice’s main notes include bitter or- September, then hit Asia in November. The process targets a retailer’s was relaunched last March to target the ange, saffron flower and amber. Other countries are scheduled for the best customers via marketing initia- most profitable shoppers with direct- “The initial freshness gives way to a fragrance in 2006. tives such as direct-mail or e-mail marketing programs. This ultimately very cosy signature,” said Kurdjian. The 50-ml. Silver Shadow eau de campaigns and coupons in an effort to drove front-end same-store sales (which Silver Shadow will be available as toilette spray will sell for 47 euros, or boost same-store sales. exclude pharmacy and prescription an eau de toilette and a “Pure Blend” $57.90 at current exchange rates, “The idea is that shopper-specific sales) up 2 percent in the first quarter of version, which is a deeper variant of while Pure Blend will be available as information is a new and very power- 2005 compared with a 2.3 percent de- the juice. a 100-ml. spray priced at 82 euros, or ful tool that retailers have,” said cline in the first quarter of 2004. “It really is for connoisseurs,” said $101. Ancillaries are to be available, Aronson, president and chief execu- “The objective of a loyalty program Mariez. “It is the quintessence of the as well. tive officer of Cartwheel, in a recent is to have shoppers spend more of their Silver Shadow concept.” — Jennifer Weil interview. “Loyalty programs have dollars in your store,” said Aronson.

26 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005

Media/Advertising The Culture of the Negative Sell By Sara James tures descended again, picking off a good portion of Omnimedia’s ad pages. Perhaps the biggest factor in how dirty the pool gets is the category in which the NEW YORK — What is it about selling ad pages that just brings out the worst in people? magazines are operating. Earlier this year, when a catty sell sheet pitting sibling Advance Publications titles “It starts with the product, it starts with the environment they compete in,” said GQ and Details against each other surfaced, veterans of the publishing business were Scott Kruse, executive vice president director of print buying at MediaCom, a leading split on its significance. Some thought it smacked of the so-called gladiator days of media buying agency. “If you’re in a share with a limited number of competitors, [dis- publishing, the bloody battles of the late Nineties and early Naughts when publishers paraging other titles] becomes a much more important element of your sell.” routinely slugged below their competitors’ belts. And where, exactly, are the hotbeds of competition these days? The business Others in the industry felt that, on the contrary, today’s climate is as brutal as ever books, the celebrity weeklies and yes, the men’s magazines, according to the majority — although several in this camp did concede the new sell sheet was hardly as “cre- of executives WWD polled. ative” as the tactics used by a previous generation of publishers. Given the spats that have been going on in the men’s sector for decades, this year’s GQ Creative? No. Efficient? Yes. “GQ resonates with more readers, and speaks with sheet is hardly unusual. The most egregious story, according to a number of sources, dates relevance, authority and youthfulness,” the sheet reads, while stats highlight GQ’s back to a couple of years ago when an anonymous letter was sent out to advertisers trash- median cover age: as of April, 26.5,which is five-and-a-half years younger than the me- ing GQ. Steve Florio, then-head of Condé Nast, and his brother, Tom Florio, then-publisher dian for Details’ cover subjects. A few glowing quotes of GQ, hired a private detective to track down the source, and traced the about GQ positioned next to this comment from Peter letter back to Details’ then-publisher Bill Wackermann through a bulk rate Carlson in the Washington Post’s “Magazine Reader” col- stamp from the Fairchild mail room. umn: “The dumbest magazine story of the year appeared While such a flagrant offense might seem like grounds for a publisher’s in the always moronic Details.” (For the curious, Carlson dismissal at most companies, it evidently wasn’t actionable within the was referring to Details’ missive “The Nightmare of the Advance empire. Wackermann was subsequently promoted to be publisher Office Bowel Movement.”) of Glamour. Why? He wasn’t entirely to blame, but was simply reacting to a The sheet certainly makes its point, namely that GQ is a similar jab from GQ, said several executives at Fairchild and Condé Nast. bigger and better vehicle for certain advertisers to reach a “Bill Wackermann is not selling Glamour for playing softball,” said certain type of guy — so who cares if a sister title is bruised Galotti. “When I got up in the morning and went to work for Si [S.I. in the process? Still, stacked against the legendary derring- Newhouse Jr.], he wasn’t paying me to be nice to other people. It’s busi- dos of Ron Galotti, Richard Beckman and the Florio broth- ness. It’s hardball.” ers, the sell sheet seems, well, downright cordial. Certainly, Condé Nast has an interesting way of keeping it in the No one embodies that earlier generation of publishers family — however dysfunctional that family might seem better than Galotti, the former publisher of Vogue, Vanity to the outside world. Fair, Talk and GQ, who, depending on the year, was alter- “They’re much worse than other companies nately the most feared, revered or reviled publisher in the about bashing other magazines, even their own,” business. When Galotti was running the ill-fated Talk, in said one longtime advertising client, who asked order to sell more ad pages, he had Louis Vuitton trash not to be named because he continues to work cans made and filled them with copies of competitors’ with Condé Nast brands. He said such internal magazines — mostly The New Yorker and Vanity Fair — bickering is impossible to avoid at a company before sending them to advertisers. that, unlike competitors Time Inc., Wenner Media “I literally said, ‘I’ve taken the liberty of helping and even Hearst, continues to launch new titles you with your buying plans,’” Galotti The September covers of into sectors already crowded with its own brands. recollected. “In the old days, we Details and GQ, and the sell That’s not how president of Condé Nast’s media played it more like gladiators. It was sheet sent to an advertiser group Richard Beckman sees it, though. “Our mag- a blood sport.” by GQ earlier this year. azines have real connectivity between the consumer And occasionally, the wounds were and the medium,” says Beckman, who stresses that even visible. Speaking about Galotti, each title is necessary to reach one slice of a spec- one magazine executive, who asked not trum of readers. “I don’t think there is a formulaic way of arriving at that to be named, said, “He did what we all connection. Every year, a few magazines in the marketplace lose their wanted to do. He actually reached relevancy, and those magazines go by the wayside. But you have to keep across the table and punched some- striving to create something that’s distinct. The challenge in marketing is body.” In fact, there are many equally no- to make sure you’re presenting differences in that connectivity.” torious stories about other publishers’ All fine and good, but while Vogue, W, Lucky, Allure and Glamour do bad behavior, involving broken noses, arguably reach very different women, they’re all still competing for the seven-figure company settlements and same ad dollars at the end of the day. In that sort of corporate culture, town car drivers brutally kicked and beat- isn’t a little squabbling among publishers guaranteed? en on curbs. “There was a time when a lot of the sales efforts within the company “The characteristics that make someone successful in busi- were moving business from the right hand to the left,” said Beckman. “But ness or government can render them unpleasant personally,” I can tell you over the last decade, particularly over the last three or four clinical psychologist Belinda Board, based at the University of years, that’s changed,” — thanks to efforts started by former chief executive Surrey in the U.K., said in an editorial in The New York Times officer Steve Florio and continued under current ceo Chuck Townsend. this spring. “What’s more astonishing is that those characteris- Note the publishing groups created around the bridal and shelter tics when exaggerated are the same ones that are often found magazines, and the $3 million plus “Point of Passion” ad campaign that in criminals.” Board was referring to United Nations ambassa- Advance rolled out for advertisers earlier this year. The first portion of dor John Bolton, but she could have just as easily been dissect- the presentation promotes the power of print over all other forms of ing the mind of some magazine publishers. media. The second half demonstrates why the Condé Nast group offers “Make no mistake,” said Mitch Fox, chief executive officer of Advance’s Golf Digest advertisers more value than any other company. Group, “the ad sales business is a competitive, rough, ruthless, sometimes mean-spir- It’s the bagels, doughnuts and muffins again, only this time they’re in Powerpoint. ited business. And it demands occasionally that we beat each other up in order to pre- “The idea is now to shoot the guns outside of the building,” said a Condé Nast ex- serve our own survival.” ecutive, speaking on background. The negative sell, the practice of bashing competitors to promote a title, is as old Unfortunately, it doesn’t mean, though, that shrapnel from friendly fire won’t still as Time itself — quite literally. Shortly after Time magazine launched in the early occasionally be felt inside 4 Times Square. Twenties, a fledgling competitor, The New Yorker, declared in a prepublication an- Wackermann, for instance, continues to thrive within the company, even after four nouncement that, unlike Time, the new title would not be “edited for the old lady in of his fellow Condé Nast publishers banded together this year and went to Townsend Dubuque.” In response, a Time reporter assumed the persona of “an old lady in with a list of his Glamour infractions. Dubuque” and slammed The New Yorker’s first issue in a negative review, claiming “Chuck should’ve slapped the hell out of those four publishers and sent them back the magazine was pretentious and would never last. to their desks,” said Galotti, who stressed that he was only lending his perspective as Hey, no one ever claimed the strategy always works. “farmer Ron, from a distance.” In 1995, when Hearst cut its rate bases for all of its titles save two and simultane- Condé Nast publishers are by no means the only ones that get aggressive with ously raised its ad rates, Condé Nast responded by sending key advertisers breakfast clients. But the negative sell seems to manifest itself in different ways at other compa- foods on consecutive days — doughnuts, bagels or muffins, depending on who’s nar- nies. For instance, when Blender launched, executives at Dennis dismissed Rolling rating the story. On the first day, they were sent fewer than a dozen; on the second day, Stone’s Mediamark Research Inc.’s advertising data profiling the types of men who they got a baker’s dozen, hammering home the message that clients were getting less read music magazines, then turned around and used the very same stats in their own than they paid for with Hearst, and what amounted to a bonus from Condé Nast. prototype. Of Hearst, one longtime advertising client, who asked not to be named, “You might say that’s negative selling,” said Galotti, who was publisher of Vogue at said, “Donna Lagani [publisher of Hearst’s Cosmopolitan], might talk about other the time. “But if publishers had their way, they would slip everything that’s bad under magazines, but not in a malicious way.” the rug. You have to, at some point, call them on it.” “Ruthless selling is a personality thing,” said MediaCom’s Kruse. While certain clarifications might be warranted at times, often it seems there is no “You tend to see the same faces doing that kind of selling,” said Alan Katz, who was limit to how low some publishers will go to bang up a competitor. In the late Nineties, recently promoted from his job as publisher of Cargo to publisher of Vanity Fair. when Liz Tilberis, the late editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar, became too ill with “Desperate measures by desperate people.” ovarian cancer to run the magazine, it is said that competing publishers used that as “Some people have good manners, some don’t,” said Chris Payne, director of mar- leverage to convince advertisers to pull out of the title. When Martha Stewart was on keting at Giorgio Armani fragrances. However, bad manners may not work as well as trial for obstruction of justice following the shady sale of her ImClone stock, the vul- they used to. “I would never make a media decision based on what a publisher said WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 27 WWD.COM

Michael Kent Ron Galotti Clinton Brownridge

Richard Beckman GALOTTI BY PAUL HAWTHORNE/GETTY IMAGES PAUL BY GALOTTI about another book,” said Payne. Now it seems, though, it’s a new era over at the MPA. In January, the organization “If you’re working on a title you’re proud of, that’s what your sales call should launched its own multimillion-dollar advertising campaign promoting the power of print. focus on,” said Lucky publisher Sandy Golinkin. By disparaging competitors today, “As part of the coalition effort, we are encouraging people to put forward their she said, “you run the risk of looking stupid because it may be a magazine they’re al- strengths, and the strengths of the medium in the selling process,” said Ellen Oppenheim, ready using.” executive vice president and chief marketing officer of the MPA, which has been reedu- Hearst’s executive vice president and chief marketing officer, Michael Clinton, cating individual publishers and salespeople about the advantages of the print medium. said, “I love it when a competitor feels like it has to spend time in a sales call on us. However, even Oppenheim seems resigned to certain inevitabilities in the maga- We often end up getting the business.” zine business. “It’s always in the buyers’ advantage to pit publications against each Nevertheless, the pot shots are still occasionally too tempting to resist. And some- other,” she said. “Sellers have to be prepared to position themselves effectively so times they’re just necessary to survive. that an advertiser wants to consider them as part of the plan to fulfill a strategic ob- This year’s GQ sell sheet wasn’t intended as a crippling blow to the kneecaps. The jective. At the same time, they have to be prepared to answer the question, ‘Why sheet wasn’t even widely distributed to advertisers. According to a Condé Nast should I spend money on you as opposed to someone else?’” spokeswoman, it was prepared in response to a direct request from a single client, “The fact that Ronnie is gone, that’s all it means,” said Wenner Media vice chairman who asked for a breakdown of the two titles. Kent Brownridge. “It doesn’t mean that this isn’t still a hard business. When a number “I’m sure a lot of magazines have had sell sheets come out of their departments of people are competing for a fixed amount of money, and in some cases a company’s ad that they’re not proud of,” Details’ soon-to-be ex-publisher, Chris Mitchell, said. “Pete budget is losing money, it’s a zero-sum game. Give him less, and give me more.” [Hunsinger, current publisher of GQ] is a fair and worthy competitor and I know he Brownridge continued, “Their budget is broken down into television, Internet, probably regrets that this exists as much as I do.” maybe there’s some money allocated for newspapers and there’s money allocated for That the sheet was a defensive, rather than an offensive, move raises an interest- magazines. There is nothing you can do to change that allocation.” ing point. Many of the people consulted for this story said such isolated instances of “If that were true, how could the Internet have pried away money from existing the hard negative sell are a dirty but necessary secret of the publishing business. cable budgets?” asked Mitch Fox. “Very often, we are forced by the community to put everything into a neat little Still, DeLuca said, “ad budgets aren’t growing. There are more magazines. box,” said Gourmet publisher Giulio Capua. Advertisers want more for their dollars.” “It’s hard to avoid making a distinction when the buyer is inviting the compari- Ah, those dreaded words that have become a more powerful weapon in today’s son,” said Beckman. page wars than any measly little sell sheet: added value. Galotti put it more plainly: “Traditionally, it’s a media buyer, some lonely kid in an Back to the bagels, doughnuts and muffins again, only this time they’re repackaged office with a directive to bother people, making those requests to get a better price. as advertorial supplements, in-store events, Web shopping click-throughs and extrav- No account executive or president of a company is going to bother with pitting titles agant television specials. against each other. Their objective is moving product.” So with executives at the MPA conceding that the negative sell is still an in- “I can’t tell you how many times media buyers play back negative things other mag- escapable part of the business, and Brownridge claiming magazine ad sales is still a azines have said,” said Rolling Stone publisher Steve DeLuca. “It puts us in a place zero-sum game, is real reform even possible? Or will the machinations of publishers where we have to correct misinformation.” simply become either more costly or covert over time? Translation: When a publisher is alone in a room on a sales call, virtually anything “This is well within our ability,” said Fox. “The question really is, is a behavioral can happen. change for the success we’re discussing within our ability, as well? Effectively, can we “Think about it: The MPA [Magazine Publishers of America] hasn’t done anything sell like a new media?” through the years to curb the bad behavior,” said one magazine executive who asked And can the new media version of print retain its all-important color once it stops not to be named. “In that respect, they’ve really done a disservice to the industry.” spilling the blood?

US BUST: As a class, to the woodworking profession. Mitchell informed his staff on further comment. “It's a good, old-fashioned tabloid scoop gossip reporters are not Wednesday that he had accepted a job as the new president and we're letting the photos speak for themselves,” she said. famed for their personal of BDDW, a maker of hand-built American furniture started a The ubiquitous model is the face of a number of fashion MEMO PAD ethics. But one in decade ago by Mitchell’s friend, designer Tyler Hays. The and beauty brands, including Dior, Chanel, Burberry and particular appeared to hit company is based in Manhattan’s SoHo, with studio spaces in Coty Inc.-owned Rimmel. A spokeswomen for Chanel a new low on Wednesday: Timothy McDarrah, Us Weekly’s Brooklyn and upstate New York. “It’s been the third-glass-of- declined comment on the Mirror spread, while a recorded “Hot Stuff” columnist, was arrested on charges of seeking wine conversation for a number of years,” said Mitchell. message told callers that Coty never comments on Moss’ to arrange sex with a minor over the Internet. “Timing is never good, but the magazine is personal life. A spokeswoman at Storm Models McDarrah, a longtime tabloid reporter who has worked running like a well-oiled machine right now, said in an e-mail: “Kate never makes public for the Las Vegas Sun and New York Post, joined Us in which makes it easier and harder to leave.” comments to the media about her private or October 2004. According to the U.S. Attorney’s Office for Following last month’s flurry of appointments business life. As her agents, we will not be the Southern District of New York, on June 22 he responded at Condé Nast — David Carey to head a new responding to the allegations currently being to an ad in the “erotic services” section of the Web site business group, Lou Cona to be the new made by the Mirror, as they are being dealt with Craigslist.com. In numerous e-mail conversations over the publisher of The New Yorker and Alan Katz to be by lawyers and we are not prepared to comment following weeks, McDarrah allegedly courted sexual favors the new publisher of Vanity Fair — things had further.” — Brid Costello from what he believed to be a 13-year-old girl, offering to seemed to be quieting down at 4 Times Square. buy her clothes and an iPod, and telling her that he worked Mitchell’s resignation could set off another TWO-MILLION MARK: New York magazine’s Web at Us. At one point, he arranged a rendezvous, where he had round of publisher shuffles within Advance’s site has been vying with, of all places, style.com promised to pay $200 in exchange for a sex act specified Condé Nast or Fairchild divisions. Two names for traffic this week. New York added a fashion beforehand “in graphic terms,” according to the complaint. already mentioned as possible replacements for blog for fashion week, and says it’s updating McDarrah failed to show up for that meeting. Mitchell: The New Yorker’s associate publisher Chris Mitchell collection photos every hour. According to the He was arrested on Sept. 14, when he went to what he William Li and Vanity Fair’s associate publisher magazine’s spokeswoman, the site was on track believed to be the girl’s home and asked her to meet him Paul Jowdy. — Sara James to hit two million page views on Thursday, the most there. At 4 p.m. on Wednesday he was taken into custody nymag.com has ever had. Former W senior editor Rob by agents of the FBI’s Crimes Against Children Unit. MIRROR, MIRROR: Cover girl Kate Moss snatched the front Haskell has been serving as guest blogger. — S.J. According to the complaint, he quickly admitted to the page of the U.K.’s Daily Mirror newspaper for all the wrong charges against him, and now faces a minimum prison reasons Thursday. The tabloid published grainy photographs HEALTHY START: Rodale Inc. declared plans Thursday for a sentence of five years, with a maximum term of 30 years. of a person it claimed to be Moss preparing and snorting full-scale launch of Women’s Health magazine, its new Men’s McDarrah, who is divorced and has a 13-year-old son, cocaine. With bold headlines “Cocaine Kate” and “High as Health spin-off. The announcement confirmed a report in has been suspended without pay from his job at Us, a Kate,” the accompanying article alleges the pictures were Wednesday’s WWD. As part of the move, Tina Johnson, who according to a spokesman for the magazine. Investigators taken at a London recording studio where Moss is said to had been serving as executive editor during the run of five also seized the computer from his desk at Us and have partied with her musician boyfriend Pete Doherty. test issues, was promoted to editor in chief. Meanwhile, Beth interviewed at least one co-worker. — Jeff Bercovici The exposé has at least the appearance of a retaliatory Fenner, previously an assistant managing editor at Fortune, strike. In July, Moss won undisclosed libel damages over has come onboard as executive editor; Andrea Dunham, AGAINST THE GRAIN: Ron Galotti may have left the publishing claims by London's Sunday Mirror that she had collapsed previously of Inc., has been named art director; Sarah Rozen, business to run a farm in Vermont, but Chris Mitchell has gone into a cocaine-induced coma in Barcelona in June 2001. A previously of Fast Company, has been appointed photo him one better. Details lost Mitchell, its publisher, this week, Daily Mirror spokeswoman confirmed that the photos were director, and Sean Nolan, previously a contributor to Men’s not to the country life or even to a competing magazine, but the result of an undercover investigation, but declined Health, has been named managing editor. — J.B. 28 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 WWD.COM Experts Don’t Expect China U.S., China Schedule More Trade Talks To Change Course on Yuan By Evan Clark WASHINGTON — American and Chinese negotia- By John Zarocostas sented by Sens. Charles tors said Thursday they will return to negotiations Schumer (D., N.Y. ) and Lindsey for a fifth time with the goal of reaching a compre- BURGENSTOCK, Switzerland — Graham (R., S.C.) “will not hensive apparel and textile import agreement. China is likely to deflect U.S. po- change the basic conditions and The scheduling of the next round of talks, to be litical pressure for a sharp reval- sequence of China’s exchange- held here on Sept. 26 and 27, came as domestic uation of the yuan and continue rate reform, but [serve] only to textile groups petitioned the Bush administration PHOTO BY AP PHOTO/CHUCK BURTON PHOTO BY with its incremental approach disturb the normal course of the to reapply safeguard quotas on $3.4 billion worth on reform of its currency, inter- reform. We will proceed from of Chinese imports. Restrictions on those goods national market experts said at a the fundamental interest and expire Dec. 31. commodities conference here. economic and social realities of “An agreement would provide both our manu- “They’re under a lot of politi- China, and adopt the exchange- facturers and retailers with much-needed cer- cal pressure from the U.S. to rate regime and exchange-rate tainty,” said David Spooner, special textile nego- revalue the…yuan,” said Roy policies that are suitable to tiator with the U.S. Trade Representative’s office. Leighton, chairman of the China’s specific conditions.” “The United States, though, will continue to uti- London-based Futures & Options Patrick Catania, president lize the China textile safeguard when circum- Association. “They’re taking and chief executive officer of stances warrant.” their time about that and I think Chicago-based consultancy Asia The reapplications, which include nine peti- that’s prudent and sensible be- West Group, believes pressure tions covering 16 types of goods, including cotton- cause they’ve got to feed that from Washington could backfire. knit shirts and cotton trousers, were partly meant gradually into their economy.” “The more they twist, the to keep the heat on the talks. On July 21, China abandoned more they cajole, the more they “The U.S. textile industry is refiling these peti- its decade-long fixed peg to the pressure, the less likely are the tions now to give the U.S. government the oppor- dollar in favor of a managed Chinese to act,” said Catania, a tunity to renew the current safeguards seamlessly float composed by a basket of former senior executive vice in January 2006 if no comprehensive textile currencies, but has not revealed president at the Chicago Board agreement is reached,” Cass Johnson, president of David Spooner is headed back to the negotiating table. details as to how this basket is of Trade. “So I think there the National Council of Textile Organizations, weighed and calculated. needs to be more education said in a statement. But Lamar said China might be in a better po- The move has resulted in a 2 within the U.S. political system Petitions have to wind their way through a pub- sition to deal since it completed a similar round percent appreciation of the yuan, in what is taking place and what lic comment and decision process from the of negotiations with the European Union. Working which is not considered suffi- in fact happens should these Committee for the Implementation of Textile on two apparel and textile import deals at once cient in many influential U.S. in- moves take place to modify a Agreements that can take several months. China complicated things for China. dustrial and political circles to currency’s global value. There agreed to safeguards, which limit annual growth “The USTR position simply mirrors the U.S. help reduce the huge bilateral are repercussions through a full to 7.5 percent and can be renewed through 2008, textile industry’s, which is essentially, cover as trade deficit, which last year economy, and they have the when it joined the World Trade Organization in much as you can,” said Erik Autor, vice presi- reached $162 billion, and has right to take a step back and 2001. Safeguards are a stop-gap measure meant to dent and international trade counsel for the sustained calls on the Bush ad- look…so that they know that it’s protect domestic textile and apparel firms facing National Retail Federation. “If that’s what we ministration to arm-twist Beijing going to destroy what they built a sudden flood of imports after the WTO eliminat- end up with, then what’s the point of negotiating to engineer a large appreciation. to this point.” ed a larger system of quotas Jan. 1. this agreement?” “I think what the Chinese have But China’s robust economy, Apparel and textile imports from China soared Textile groups, which would prefer a broad done is to try to release a little bit followed closely by an emerging 45.8 percent through July to 9.43 billion square deal, have said they are also content to fall back of the pressure from the U.S.,” India, and its thirst for energy meter equivalents. A comprehensive apparel and on the safeguard system. said Didier Varlet, of Chicago- and industrial commodities, textile deal would regulate imports for at least the “We are going to limit Chinese access to the based Cartesia Consulting. “But which has in part fueled the lat- next couple of years and inject more certainty in market one way or the other,” said Auggie at the same time, they don’t want est boom in world prices for oil the marketplace than the current regime of safe- Tantillo, executive director of the American to really abandon the old way and other energy commodities, guards. The U.S. has pushed for low growth over a Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition. they had to run their economy. will continue in the short to range of categories through 2008. In turn, China Tantillo said textile concerns were also looking So, it’s a kind of compromise medium term, experts believe. has sought higher growth on fewer categories at ways to protect their industry beyond 2008. under pressure.” “I think markets ultimately through 2007. NCTO and AMTAC refiled the safeguard petitions, Varlet feels China will take react to market fundamentals,” The last round of talks ended Sept. 1 in Beijing along with the National Textile Association and its time before it decides to said James Newsome, president with little progress and CITA immediately im- the union UNITE HERE. freely float the yuan. of the New York Mercantile posed safeguards on bras and synthetic filament In related news, CITA helped free up goods On Sept. 9, Gov. Zhou Exchange. “We look at the fun- fabric, but delayed decisions on four other safe- embargoed under safeguards to help hurricane Xiaochuan of the People’s Bank damentals, particularly in the guard petitions until Oct. 1. victims. of China — the country’s central energy sector. There’s no short- Some importers were wary of the U.S. position “U.S. apparel importers approached CITA ask- bank — said in a meeting in term fix to the supply-demand going into the talks. ing if their embargoed goods could be donated to Canada that U.S. threats to take imbalance that currently exists. Stephen Lamar, senior vice president of the the relief effort,” said Commerce Secretary Carlos protectionist measures against So, it’s my expectation that high- American Apparel & Footwear Association, said Gutierrez. “When people want to help, govern- China over the exchange-rate er energy prices are going to be the reapplication of the safeguard petitions will ment should find a way to help them do it. Today, issue, as outlined in a bill pre- with us for quite some time.” “probably just sour the mood” of the talks. CITA took action to make this happen.” WTO’s Lamy Sets Goal Trade Amendment Falls in Senate

By Kristi Ellis tions bill for the State and the table and weaken basic pro- For Hong Kong Summit Commerce Departments and tections” of existing trade laws, WASHINGTON — The Senate de- sparked a firestorm on the such as antidumping and coun- GENEVA — New World Trade September 2003. feated a controversial amend- Senate floor over two days. It es- tervailing duties, “which will Organization chief Pascal Lamy, who took over the ment Thursday offered by Sen. sentially would have prohibited move jobs offshore.” Lamy on Wednesday called on helm of the WTO on Sept. 1, Byron Dorgan (D., N.D.) aimed at the authorization of funds for Sen. Chuck Grassley (R., the 148 countries in the Doha said progress on the politically preventing U.S. trade negotiators any trade negotiations that Iowa), strongly opposed talks to aim for a solid package sensitive agriculture issue was in the Doha Round of global trade sought to modify or amend U.S. Dorgan’s amendment and said: of deals during the Hong Kong a top priority and the U.S. and talks from agreeing to change unfair-trade-practices laws. “We’ve got a policy that is broad trade summit in December. the European Union must sort trade laws that allow the U.S. to The Bush administration to make sure things aren’t weak- An agreement needs to be out their differences. impose duties against unfairly agreed to place U.S. antidumping ened, but if they want to be reached “which takes us two- Earlier, Lamy told WTO del- priced or subsidized imports. and countervailing duty laws on strengthened they can be thirds of the way to concluding egates progress on agriculture Although the Senate defeated the table in the Doha Round talks strengthened, as well. We’ve got the round in 2006,” he said. “is needed urgently.” A priority the amendment on a 60-39 vote, at the behest of many countries to have a broad number of is- The troubled Doha round for Hong Kong is to prepare an many lawmakers signaled their that oppose the use of the meas- sues on the table to get any suc- talks have been bogged down agreement “on an end date to concerns about what the U.S. is ures in the U.S. and are seeking cess for agriculture.” over major differences be- the elimination of export sub- offering in the World Trade some regulation of their use. Dorgan’s amendment prompt- tween rich and poor countries, sidies.” Organization negotiations aimed “We must stand up for the ed U.S. Trade Representative and among rich nations, over The need for a solid pack- at reducing or eliminating tar- economic interests in this coun- Rob Portman and Commerce agriculture. The divisions age on on all elements of the iffs on a range of products. Any try,” Dorgan said on the Senate Secretary Carlos Gutierrez to were instrumental in the col- cotton dossier was also on the such treaty would have to be ap- floor. “The reason this amend- send a letter to senators implor- lapse of the talks during the priority list, he noted. proved by Congress. ment is necessary is it has been ing them to oppose it and claim- last WTO summit in Cancún in — J.Z. Dorgan attached his amend- widely announced that our ne- ing it would diminish the chances ment to an annual appropria- gotiators are prepared to lay on of reaching an agreement.

30 WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005

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SWEATERS CPA with some SOX experience Candidate should have construction Fax: 732-280-6190 Staff w/min 1yr wholesale/retail a+ Fast paced Sweater mfr. seeks a crea- knowledge & ability to create flat tive team player to assist in all aspects ARLINE SIMPSON ASSOCIATES sketches in Illustrator. Associates OUTSOURCED 1866 221 2200 [email protected] of design & development. Candidates degree in fashion required. Lingerie must possess technical knowledge of BACKOFFICE SUPPORT /Sleepwear experience is a plus. Please yarns/stitches. Computer skills a plus. MGL Associates, LLC fax resume to: M. Fox at 212- 842-4050. Qualified candidates fax resume with Provides businesses with turnkey Equal Opportunity Employer salary requirements to: KYRA backoffice management including: 212-658-9153 • Business Plans DESIGN ASSISTANT • Financial Projections Leading Apparel Co. seeks organized • Order Processing/Customer Service &detail oriented person w/ min 2 yrs EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT • Inventory Planning/Forecasting exp to sketch both illustration and a LUXURY BRAND • Accts. Receivable/Cash Mgmt. flat. Computer savvy w/ Photoshop a Seeking a highly experienced Executive • Bookkeeping/Accounting must. Candidate should be energetic Assistant for company President. Must CLIENTS OF ALL SIZES. and have desire to grow in a fast have a minimum of 8 years experience; [email protected] paced atmosphere. Willing to make strong administrative skills, professional, necessary trips out of showroom. polished and articulate. Fax resume to: Great work environment. Fax resume Kate @ 212-244-1716 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, to HR Mgr: 212-354-3051 PRODUCTIONS All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. WWD, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2005 31 WWD.COM Retail Apparel Prices Sears Canada Announces Major Cost Cutting By Brian Dunn turn Sears Canada into an income trust, a tax-effi- Lower Year-on-Year cient way to pay dividends to investors instead of MONTREAL — Sears Canada plans to cut $85 mil- reinvesting in the company at a higher tax rate. By Evan Clark lion in costs by 2008 in a move that some analysts “It appears their financial policy is being dictated speculated would precede an eventual sell-off by more and more by their U.S. parent, which is trying to WASHINGTON — Retail prices on women’s apparel held steady in its U.S. parent. extract more value out of the company, and that’s why August, after adjusting for seasonal variations, according to the To cover the cuts, Sears plans to take a pretax the income trust idea is being floated,” said analyst Labor Department’s Consumer Price Index released Thursday. hit of $60 million in the fourth quarter. All figures Don Povilaitis at Standard & Poor’s, also in Toronto. However, the deflationary trend, which has wreaked havoc on have been converted from Canadian dollars. The He said Sears’ credit rating has been weakened retail and vendor bottom lines, could still be seen in the 2.4 per- majority of the trims will occur next year. by the decision last month to sell its lucrative cred- cent price drop from a year earlier. “What caught me off guard was the magnitude it card division to J.P. Morgan Chase & Co. for $1.9 “[Retailers] post these prices in August and maybe in of the cuts and the restructuring charge,” said an- billion, most of which is expected to be distributed September, and by October they’re cutting 10, 20, 30 percent off the alyst David Brodie of Research Capital Corp. of to shareholders as an extraordinary cash dividend. price tags,” said Ken Goldstein, an economist at The Conference Toronto, who expects Sears to lay off up to 10 per- The income trust idea “has merit for share- Board. “I don’t expect there to be any change in that pattern.” cent of its staff of 40,000. holders to convert equity into cash, which seems Complicating the picture for retailers, sales have been slug- Brodie said Sears Holding Corp. chairman to be the focus south of the border,” said analyst gish. Sales at apparel and accessories stores showed no improve- Edward Lampert “will wait for the cost-cutting John Chamberlain at Dominion Bond Rating ment in August and remained unchanged at $16.65 billion. process to go through before he has any thoughts Service in Toronto. “The conundrum in terms of what retailers are facing is that of a sell-off.” Analysts have mentioned the possibility of a prices are down, [consumer] income is up and yet sales are not Sears Canada’s credit rating was downgraded to merger between Sears Canada and rival Hudson’s really moving,” said Goldstein. “There’s not light at the end of junk status by Standard & Poor’s Ratings Services Bay Co., which also operates the Zellers discount the tunnel.” after the retailer announced the cost cuts. division, to gain strength to compete with Wal- Even at lower year-over-year prices, apparel faces stiff compe- There has been speculation that Lampert might Mart Canada’s growing market share. tition in family budgets. High energy costs, which helped drive prices on all goods up 0.5 percent in August, continued to drain discretionary dollars from the consumers’ pocketbook. This drain can be seen clearest in the price of gasoline. A gal- lon of regular averaged $2.92 Thursday, up from $1.84 a year ago, Senate Passes Hurricane Tax-Relief Bill although down from a high of $3.06 on Sept. 5, according to the American Automobile Association. WASHINGTON — The Senate The bill, introduced by Sens. to $6,000 if paid after Aug. 28 and Factoring out food and energy goods, inflation was contained, unanimously passed a hurricane Chuck Grassley (R., Iowa) and before Dec. 31 by employers in with overall prices inching up 0.1 percent for the month. tax-relief bill on Thursday that Max Baucus (D., Montana), must the disaster zone. It increases the Prices on all apparel rose 1 percent in August, but fell 0.6 per- offers breaks and incentives to be reconciled with a version in amount allowed annually as a cent against a year earlier. In the women’s area, outerwear prices victims to rebuild homes, find the House. corporate charitable deduction to advanced 4.9 percent for the month, but were down 4.6 percent jobs and access housing, as well The package offers a series of 15 percent from 10 percent and year-over-year, while dress prices slid 1.9 percent in August and as provide some tax breaks for incentives, including an employ- allows individuals to make early were down 0.3 percent against a year earlier. businesses in the devastated Gulf ee retention credit that allows a withdrawals from retirement Coast region. 40 percent tax credit for wages up plans without being penalized.

National Store SALES ASSISTANT Leading Apparel Co. seeks organized, SALES REPS Manager detail oriented candidate w/ min 2 yrs Leading knit fabric company seeks exp to process orders, cut swatch, as- ,a motivated, energetic & experienced American Crew sist w/ showroom & selling room, work Sales Professionals for nationwide. leading mfr. of Men’s with small stores and other Grooming Products is Call Raphael @ (213) 247-3557 or various administrative duties. Must Fax resume to: (323) 277-3223 seeking National Store have high energy level. Oppty to grow Manager. This position in fast paced atmosphere. Must be Showroom Sales Manager will be responsible for managing multiple willing to make necessary trips out of store inventories that exist throughout Trimmings Sales Mgr. showroom. Great work environment. Minimum of 5 years working Large Asian Conglomerate seeks Sales our distribution network. The ideal Fax resume to: HR Mgr. 212-354-3051 candidate will help develop and analyze sales experience with high-end Manager for their buttons manufacturing distributor store plans based on current specialty boutiques and depart- division. New York based position. SAMPLEMAKER Must have 3+ years of sales experience &historical trends. Recommend inventory ment stores. Must be extremely levels and execute promo strategies that Couture co. seeks experienced highly with large U.S. based buying houses allow all stores to maintain adequate skilled sewers/tailors organized and self motivated. in the trimmings industry. stock levels to maximize sales. Partners Please call 212-869-2296 Some travel required. Buttons sales experience preferred. with external sales team to ensure stores Must have industry contacts. are adequately trained and stocked. Please forward resumes to Please fax resume to: (212) 869-1735 Works with marketing department to Charles via email or Email: [email protected] execute in store point of purchase & [email protected] merchandising plans. This position is Senior Merchandise based in our corporate office in Denver, Colorado. Domestic travel req’d. Full Manager benefits. EOE/DFWP Our mission is to satisfy the fashion M.O.B. DRESS The candidate should have at least 3 needs of the modern, sexy and sophis- SALES EXECUTIVE years consumer products/personal care ticated woman. At bebe, we recognize Well established Special Occassion Dress experience, managing multiple locations. our most valuable asset, our employee. company in NYC is looking for an High-end midtown boutique seeks pol- ished professionals w/strong fashion/ Please Fax resume to 303.292.4851 Lead Merchant needed to drive fast experienced and proven M.O.B. Account or E-mail: Executive. In addition to M.O.B. Sales couture knowledge. P/T; flex. sched. 2 [email protected] growing online business. Will lead the yrs. luxury sales exp. & excellent development & execution of merchandise exp, position also requires excellent analytical, communication, follow up communication/comp. skills req’d. Fax: Product Development Manager strategies, e-mailing of marketing 212-871-1026 / email: [email protected] Looking for individual w/ creative and messages and develop the buy plans A.B.S. Dresses By Allen Schwartz and computer skills. For consideration, resourceful skills. Must have min. 5 by department for each line presentation please email resume & salary requirements to years exp. w/costume jewelry, team and present key learnings to merchants. [email protected] player with strong communication & Requires 7 + years merchandising Celebrity Collection project management skills. Ability to experience in contemporary apparel, work w/ Sales Team to help grow their on line and catalog. Must also have Private Label Sales Exec business. Need to understand the va- high fashion sense; Bachelor’s degree Est’d. Denim Mfr., headquartered in riety of stores in the market from spe- or related work experience. Director of Sales downtown LA, seeks 5+ years exp’d. cialty retailer to department stores. A.B.S., a leader in Contemporary dresses has an in- Sales Executive with strong relationships Keen awareness of design & trend Send resumes to [email protected] with Department Stores & Chain Stores. forecasting a plus. Position based in or fax to (415) 657-4445. credible opportunity for a self-motivated executive Please Fax or E-mail all resumes to: NYC. Fax resume: 973-379-7581 Technical Designer to head up sales for our new dress lisencee in 323-881-3218 / [email protected] Production Manager Westchester based Sportswear Mfg. NY.This person must have established relationships Major importer seeks top-notch person seeks indiv w/ knit exp - woven bottoms with major department stores and specialty chains. Sales Executive Sales Reps. & Asst. able to execute all aspects of China aplus.Person must have strong tech- garment production. Expertise in nical skills and knowledge of garment Minimum 5 years experience required. All replies Well est’d. contemporary clothing line is Fast growing NYC & LA Junior Misses schedules, trims, fits, samples strike construction. Daily correspondence w/ seeking an aggressive, motivated, and &plussizejacket/bottom denim apparel offs, lab dip comments. Computer liter- factories & customers as you follow kept confidential. well organized individual for its New co. seeks commission based Reps to bring ate w/ good follow-up skills. Co. paid samples from 1st fit thru prod’n. York Showroom. Must have strong est’d. in New Business and/or Private Label benefits. Fax resume to: 212-397-2202 Please fax your resume to 914-328-7941 E-Mail: [email protected] buyer contacts in contemporary women’s Customers. Est’d. connections required. or E-mail [email protected] market for majors and/or specialty stores. Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: Production Please Fax resume to: 646-674-9334 212-869-8316 / [email protected] SATYA JEWELRY PRODUCTION MANAGER Min. 5 years exp. in domestic mfg. using sterling & gemstones. Excellent computer, inventory, and organizational skills req’d. COMPETITIVE SALARY & BENEFITS . Come join our exciting, growing company! 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