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A Movement Is Slowly Rising to Resurrect Selvage-Denim Production in the U.S

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A Movement Is Slowly Rising to Resurrect Selvage-Denim Production in the U.S NEWSPAPER 2ND CLASS $2.99 VOLUME 74, NUMBER 44 OCTOBER 26–NOVEMBER 1, 2018 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 73 YEARS DENIM REPORT A Movement Is Slowly Rising to Resurrect Selvage-Denim Production in the U.S. By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor When it comes to manufacturing selvage denim in the United States, Ryan Huston could be the last man standing. Inside an old airplane hangar at the former March Air Force Base just north of Sacramento, Calif., the Huston Textile Co. has six Draper shuttle looms from the 1960s. Of the six looms, one can make the narrow-width selvage denim so cherished by purists who relish the fabric’s fin- ished edge. Shuttle looms were very versatile and popular until the 1950s to 1960s when U.S. denim mills modernized their ma- chinery to increase production and feed the growing demand for denim fabric. With less demand for shuttle looms, the Draper Corp. shut down in the 1970s. Until the end of last year, Cone Denim Mills was the last producer of selvage denim in the United States, but a ➥ Denim page 8 TRADE-SHOW REPORT Fashion Market Northern California Sold Out as Business Picks Up By Andrew Asch Retail Editor SAN MATEO, Calif.—A good economy made for good business at the Oct. 21–23 run of Fashion Market North- ern California at the San Mateo County Event Center. The retailers attending FMNC during a sunny autumn weekend noted that their customers were buying more. However, a more confident retailer did not mean that bou- tique owners had entirely changed their buying habits of the past decade. A significant number were making Immediates orders, buying close to season, vendors said. The show provided a chance to stock up on inventory before consumers start shopping for the crucial holiday season. The October market ended almost one month before Black Friday, the traditional start of the holiday shopping season. Vendor space was sold out at FMNC, said Mary Taft, ex- ➥ FMNC page 3 INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business SM ANDREW ASCH 3 4 NRF holiday survey ... p. 2 Holiday Hustle Trending in Los Angeles ... p. 2 Gen Z spending habits ... p. 2 During the Oct. 21–23 run of Fashion Market Northern California, Elegant athleticwear thrives ... p. 6 Sustainable brand Tonlé ... p. 7 exhibitor space was sold out at the San Mateo, Calif., event, while buyers T-Shirt Resources ... p. 9 ordered goods to prepare for the holiday shopping season. www.apparelnews.net 01.3,8-9.cover.indd 1 10/25/18 6:23 PM NEWS NRF Finds Consumers Will Spend More During Holidays The National Retail Federation released “Confidence is near an all-time high, un- their purchases and forecasted the types of they picked a store because of its merchan- a forecast earlier this month that shows sales employment is the lowest we’ve seen in de- products they will buy. dise. Free shipping was chosen as a deciding for the upcoming holiday season will increase cades, and take-home wages are up,” he said. Forecasted as one of the most popular factor by 47 percent of those surveyed ,and from 4.3 percent to 4.8 percent over the year. “All of that is reflected in consumers’ buying items, gift cards were requested by 60 percent the convenience of a store’s location was On Oct. 24, the prominent Washington, plans. Retailers expect strong demand this of people surveyed. The second most popular ranked as a deciding factor regarding where D.C.–based merchants group revealed shop- year and are prepared with a wide array of category was clothing and accessories with 53 to shop for 45 percent of those surveyed. pers will spend an average of $1,007.24 dur- merchandise while offering strong deals and percent of people requesting fashion. A majority of consumers—60 percent— ing the holiday season. That’s up 4.1 percent promotions during the busiest and most com- The survey found that 71 percent of con- will start shopping for gifts in November. A from the average of $967.13 that consumers petitive shopping season of the year.” sumers chose the stores they patronize be- significant minority of 21 percent are early spent in the holiday 2017 season, Matthew The NRF survey was conducted by Pros- cause of the sales and discounts offered by birds who started shopping in October, while Shay, NRF’s president and chief executive per Insights & Analytics. It also broke the seller. Quality and selection of goods were 18 percent began shopping earlier. officer, said. down where holiday shoppers will make also important—60 percent of shoppers said —Andrew Asch ATSM Looks Toward Major Expansion for May 2019 Event With its return to the Mana Wynwood tunities for attendees. As the show seeks to ed to swimwear, resort collections, active- ing show in the southern United States and Convention Center May 20–22, 2019, Ap- connect the southeastern United States, the wear and athleisure. Latin America, Prescott expects ATSM will parel Textile Sourcing Miami [ATSM] will Americas and the Caribbean with more than “Thousands of top buyers from more than see buyers from major brands including double in size for its second event following 300 international and domestic manufac- 40 countries are expected to attend ATSM Kate Spade, HSN, Perry Ellis, Zara, Gap a 2018 launch. Show producer JP Commu- turers who will exhibit at the event, CCCT 2019 to source, connect and develop lasting Inc., Chico’s, Macy’s, Disney, Zumba, nications, which is the parent company of chairman Cao Jiachang is hopeful that in- relationships with qualified international Fountainbleau, Hard Rock, Royal Carib- the Apparel Textile Sourcing trade-show dustry professionals will forge strong rela- and domestic suppliers,” Prescott said. bean, Levi’s and Westgate Resorts. brand, joined the world’s largest textile and tionships with new partners from Asia. As the largest apparel and textile sourc- —Dorothy Crouch apparel trade agency—the China Chamber “These are all highly successful leading of Commerce for Import and Export of apparel brands in China looking for U.S. part- Textile and Apparel (CCCT)—in investing ners to represent them in America and help $2 million toward the event’s expansion. grow their brands globally,” Jiachang said. “We at ATSM are so grateful for the sup- During the show, attendees will have Fields Finds What’s Trending in port of all our international partners and our free access to conference and educational community and business partners in south sessions, a runway presentation and buyer- Florida, each of whom has been instrumen- to-supplier matchmaking services. There Los Angeles—and What’s Not tal in helping us make this show a success will be a new Sourcing Markets Pavilion; Trend forecaster Barbara Fields of the Anticipating winter, juniors are buying and with whom we look forward to grow- the LATAM Markets Pavilion, showcasing Barbara Fields Buying Office builds her puffer jackets, nylon windbreakers and out- ing,” ATSM Chief Executive Officer Jason products from Latin American markets; a reports through researching what juniors erwear with faux-fur trims. Prescott said in a statement. Streetwear Pavilion, which will include Lil styles are making cash registers ring in The report also noted specific looks on The three-day event will feature semi- Wayne’s Young Money and Trufit lines; a world fashion capitals such as London, To- the outs. Premium looks from years past are nars, fashion shows and networking oppor- fabric and trim section; and an area dedicat- kyo, Sydney and New York City. having a hard time. Think T-shirts bearing For her recently released October 2018 skull graphics. Think denim featuring em- Trend Report, Fields detailed what juniors broidery. Fields said these trends were vic- styles are selling well in Los Angeles. She tims of their own success. “It’s oversatura- also detailed what is not selling well. tion,” Fields said. “It just died.” According to the report, juniors in Los Corset tops aren’t faring very well either Angeles like tops and sweaters that feature in Los Angeles. Casual clothing featuring lattice-like details on the back and some- sequins is also not performing well, Fields times on the neckline. T-shirts with neck- said. Track pants with side taping are still lines that can be laced up like sneakers are doing well, but she anticipates that their pop- also popular. ularity will decline unless these track pants Trending well for the juniors set: tops fea- feature velvet trims or other embellishments. turing ruching, camisole tops, animal-skin Also having a tough time: tops with ruf- prints, tops featuring color blocking, graphic fles, pants and shirts with gingham checks, T-shirts—sometimes bearing feminist slo- and clothes featuring rock ’n’ roll sass such gans—and utility pants. as grommet rings.—A.A. Ahead of the Holiday Season, Piper Jaffray Reveals the Brands Teens Want As the retail industry approaches the holi- enced a slight year-over-year uptick. Overall, day shopping season, overall teen spending 45 percent of teenagers surveyed during fall has increased by 1 percent over fall 2017 but 2018 considered branding as the most impor- decreased 5 percent since spring 2018 among tant factor when making purchases compared teenage members of Generation Z. Regarding with 33 percent in 2012. their fashion purchases, teens in the United “Within fashion, we see a strong brand States are placing more importance on brand- cycle emerging led by athletic, streetwear and name clothing than they were during the same 1990s brands ranging from Vans, Supreme, time frame six years ago. Tommy Hilfiger and Adidas,” Murphy said.
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