A Movement Is Slowly Rising to Resurrect Selvage-Denim Production in the U.S
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$2.99 VOLUME 74, NUMBER 44 OCTOBER 26–NOVEMBER 1, 2018 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 73 YEARS
DENIM REPORT A Movement Is Slowly Rising to Resurrect Selvage-Denim Production in the U.S.
By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor When it comes to manufacturing selvage denim in the United States, Ryan Huston could be the last man standing. Inside an old airplane hangar at the former March Air Force Base just north of Sacramento, Calif., the Huston Textile Co. has six Draper shuttle looms from the 1960s. Of the six looms, one can make the narrow-width selvage denim so cherished by purists who relish the fabric’s fin- ished edge. Shuttle looms were very versatile and popular until the 1950s to 1960s when U.S. denim mills modernized their ma- chinery to increase production and feed the growing demand for denim fabric. With less demand for shuttle looms, the Draper Corp. shut down in the 1970s. Until the end of last year, Cone Denim Mills was the last producer of selvage denim in the United States, but a ➥ Denim page 8
TRADE-SHOW REPORT Fashion Market Northern California Sold Out as Business Picks Up By Andrew Asch Retail Editor
SAN MATEO, Calif.—A good economy made for good business at the Oct. 21–23 run of Fashion Market North- ern California at the San Mateo County Event Center. The retailers attending FMNC during a sunny autumn weekend noted that their customers were buying more. However, a more confident retailer did not mean that bou- tique owners had entirely changed their buying habits of the past decade. A significant number were making Immediates orders, buying close to season, vendors said. The show provided a chance to stock up on inventory before consumers start shopping for the crucial holiday season. The October market ended almost one month before Black Friday, the traditional start of the holiday shopping season. Vendor space was sold out at FMNC, said Mary Taft, ex- ➥ FMNC page 3
INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business SM ANDREW ASCH
3 4 NRF holiday survey ... p. 2 Holiday Hustle Trending in Los Angeles ... p. 2 Gen Z spending habits ... p. 2 During the Oct. 21–23 run of Fashion Market Northern California, Elegant athleticwear thrives ... p. 6 Sustainable brand Tonlé ... p. 7 exhibitor space was sold out at the San Mateo, Calif., event, while buyers T-Shirt Resources ... p. 9 ordered goods to prepare for the holiday shopping season. www.apparelnews.net
01.3,8-9.cover.indd 1 10/25/18 6:23 PM NEWS NRF Finds Consumers Will Spend More During Holidays The National Retail Federation released “Confidence is near an all-time high, un- their purchases and forecasted the types of they picked a store because of its merchan- a forecast earlier this month that shows sales employment is the lowest we’ve seen in de- products they will buy. dise. Free shipping was chosen as a deciding for the upcoming holiday season will increase cades, and take-home wages are up,” he said. Forecasted as one of the most popular factor by 47 percent of those surveyed ,and from 4.3 percent to 4.8 percent over the year. “All of that is reflected in consumers’ buying items, gift cards were requested by 60 percent the convenience of a store’s location was On Oct. 24, the prominent Washington, plans. Retailers expect strong demand this of people surveyed. The second most popular ranked as a deciding factor regarding where D.C.–based merchants group revealed shop- year and are prepared with a wide array of category was clothing and accessories with 53 to shop for 45 percent of those surveyed. pers will spend an average of $1,007.24 dur- merchandise while offering strong deals and percent of people requesting fashion. A majority of consumers—60 percent— ing the holiday season. That’s up 4.1 percent promotions during the busiest and most com- The survey found that 71 percent of con- will start shopping for gifts in November. A from the average of $967.13 that consumers petitive shopping season of the year.” sumers chose the stores they patronize be- significant minority of 21 percent are early spent in the holiday 2017 season, Matthew The NRF survey was conducted by Pros- cause of the sales and discounts offered by birds who started shopping in October, while Shay, NRF’s president and chief executive per Insights & Analytics. It also broke the seller. Quality and selection of goods were 18 percent began shopping earlier. officer, said. down where holiday shoppers will make also important—60 percent of shoppers said —Andrew Asch ATSM Looks Toward Major Expansion for May 2019 Event With its return to the Mana Wynwood tunities for attendees. As the show seeks to ed to swimwear, resort collections, active- ing show in the southern United States and Convention Center May 20–22, 2019, Ap- connect the southeastern United States, the wear and athleisure. Latin America, Prescott expects ATSM will parel Textile Sourcing Miami [ATSM] will Americas and the Caribbean with more than “Thousands of top buyers from more than see buyers from major brands including double in size for its second event following 300 international and domestic manufac- 40 countries are expected to attend ATSM Kate Spade, HSN, Perry Ellis, Zara, Gap a 2018 launch. Show producer JP Commu- turers who will exhibit at the event, CCCT 2019 to source, connect and develop lasting Inc., Chico’s, Macy’s, Disney, Zumba, nications, which is the parent company of chairman Cao Jiachang is hopeful that in- relationships with qualified international Fountainbleau, Hard Rock, Royal Carib- the Apparel Textile Sourcing trade-show dustry professionals will forge strong rela- and domestic suppliers,” Prescott said. bean, Levi’s and Westgate Resorts. brand, joined the world’s largest textile and tionships with new partners from Asia. As the largest apparel and textile sourc- —Dorothy Crouch apparel trade agency—the China Chamber “These are all highly successful leading of Commerce for Import and Export of apparel brands in China looking for U.S. part- Textile and Apparel (CCCT)—in investing ners to represent them in America and help $2 million toward the event’s expansion. grow their brands globally,” Jiachang said. “We at ATSM are so grateful for the sup- During the show, attendees will have Fields Finds What’s Trending in port of all our international partners and our free access to conference and educational community and business partners in south sessions, a runway presentation and buyer- Florida, each of whom has been instrumen- to-supplier matchmaking services. There Los Angeles—and What’s Not tal in helping us make this show a success will be a new Sourcing Markets Pavilion; Trend forecaster Barbara Fields of the Anticipating winter, juniors are buying and with whom we look forward to grow- the LATAM Markets Pavilion, showcasing Barbara Fields Buying Office builds her puffer jackets, nylon windbreakers and out- ing,” ATSM Chief Executive Officer Jason products from Latin American markets; a reports through researching what juniors erwear with faux-fur trims. Prescott said in a statement. Streetwear Pavilion, which will include Lil styles are making cash registers ring in The report also noted specific looks on The three-day event will feature semi- Wayne’s Young Money and Trufit lines; a world fashion capitals such as London, To- the outs. Premium looks from years past are nars, fashion shows and networking oppor- fabric and trim section; and an area dedicat- kyo, Sydney and New York City. having a hard time. Think T-shirts bearing For her recently released October 2018 skull graphics. Think denim featuring em- Trend Report, Fields detailed what juniors broidery. Fields said these trends were vic- styles are selling well in Los Angeles. She tims of their own success. “It’s oversatura- also detailed what is not selling well. tion,” Fields said. “It just died.” According to the report, juniors in Los Corset tops aren’t faring very well either Angeles like tops and sweaters that feature in Los Angeles. Casual clothing featuring lattice-like details on the back and some- sequins is also not performing well, Fields times on the neckline. T-shirts with neck- said. Track pants with side taping are still lines that can be laced up like sneakers are doing well, but she anticipates that their pop- also popular. ularity will decline unless these track pants Trending well for the juniors set: tops fea- feature velvet trims or other embellishments. turing ruching, camisole tops, animal-skin Also having a tough time: tops with ruf- prints, tops featuring color blocking, graphic fles, pants and shirts with gingham checks, T-shirts—sometimes bearing feminist slo- and clothes featuring rock ’n’ roll sass such gans—and utility pants. as grommet rings.—A.A. Ahead of the Holiday Season, Piper Jaffray Reveals the Brands Teens Want As the retail industry approaches the holi- enced a slight year-over-year uptick. Overall, day shopping season, overall teen spending 45 percent of teenagers surveyed during fall has increased by 1 percent over fall 2017 but 2018 considered branding as the most impor- decreased 5 percent since spring 2018 among tant factor when making purchases compared teenage members of Generation Z. Regarding with 33 percent in 2012. their fashion purchases, teens in the United “Within fashion, we see a strong brand States are placing more importance on brand- cycle emerging led by athletic, streetwear and name clothing than they were during the same 1990s brands ranging from Vans, Supreme, time frame six years ago. Tommy Hilfiger and Adidas,” Murphy said. These trends were uncovered in the 36th As Nike maintained its top position as the semiannual “Taking Stock With Teens” sur- most popular clothing brand, it also decreased vey, which was conducted by the Minneapolis- in mindshare from 25 percent in 2017 to only based investment bank Piper Jaffray. Sur- 22 percent in 2018. American Eagle placed veying 8,600 teenagers in 48 states, the report second, with 9 percent, and Adidas retained its affords insight into the spending habits of Gen spot at No. 3 with 6 percent mindshare. Among Z, with an average age of 16 for survey respon- female respondents, Vans enjoyed an all-time dents. high as the top footwear brand for those shop- “Our fall survey showed overall teen spend- pers in the upper-income bracket. Overall, ing flat over the prior year,” Erinn Murphy, Nike, Vans and Adidas placed in the top-three Piper Jaffray senior research analyst, said in a spots for footwear, respectively. statement. “That said, teen spending continues When buying their preferred clothing, those to expand in categories like video games and in Gen Z are most likely to choose Ama- food. Females now indicate they spend three zon over other online shopping destinations. times more on beauty than accessories.” Social-media use is now led by Instagram, While spending on accessories fell among which edged above Snapchat, and Facebook female teenage consumers, fashion experi- continues to decline.—D.C.
2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS OCTOBER 26–NOVEMBER 1, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET
02.news.indd 2 10/25/18 6:31 PM NEW RESOURCES Industry Veterans Reformulate Misses/Contemporary Through Launch of Alchemy Thread By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor “Fabrication is num- For Spring 2019, Mandy Wang, owner of the fashion brand ber one. I am knits Daniel Rainn; Sonia Ding, an apparel-factory owner based in driven, though I do have China; and Eileen Bushman, an apparel executive with more wovens in the line,” she than 30 years in the business, have introduced the misses/con- said. “When designing temporary line Alchemy Thread and its discounted counter- the tops I thought about part, Alkamy. pairing them with jeans As owner of Daniel Rainn, Wang launched the brand in on the weekend, with 2008 with Creative Design Director Daniel Norzagaray. Dur- many California-influ- ing planning for Daniel Rainn, Wang found guidance from her enced prints and colors.” friend Bushman, who served as a consultant. With a career that Most of the pieces in includes 11 years at One World Apparel, where Bushman the collection are tops served as president, she was the perfect choice to lead Wang’s and dresses with a few new venture as president. bottoms, which whole- “Eileen has worked in this industry for many years. She has sale between $10.50 and both fashion and business-management talent and experience,” $17.50. The line is manu- Wang said of her friend, whom she has known for 18 years. factured in China, us- “Working together with the right person will increase the suc- ing Chinese fabrics—an cess of the business. Eileen is the right one.” easy decision considering With strong his- Wang and Ding’s relation- tories working in ships within the country’s fashion, Wang and manufacturing commu- Bushman under- nity. stand the specific When designing Al- needs of the con- chemy Thread’s mid- sumers they are tar- tier counterpart, Alkamy, geting. These con- Bushman wanted the sumers are women clothing to reflect the who want to wear same California-cool style colorful pieces that sought by her Alchemy will complement Thread customer but at a their body types more affordable price. while also being “Alkamy is a lot of the
comfortable. same looks but designed AURELIE DAVIS “Everything for the mid-tier price is done with the range,” she explained. “Some fabrics are a bit different but “The fashion business is not easy now,” Wang said. “The woman’s body in very California influenced in print and color vibe.” marketing is changing and consumers’ thinking is changing. If mind. We are dress- Buyers are taking notice of Bushman’s approach to miss- we keep an open mind, use creative thinking and shift together AURELIE DAVIS ing real women es/contemporary dressing, as they responded positively to with the market, we will find a successful niche.” with real figures, not models,” Bushman explained. “We are the new lines during New York Market Week held in Sep- This creative thinking and open-mindedness are part of the very sensitive to what she likes to show and what she likes to tember. process that contributed to Bushman’s conceptualization for Al- camouflage.” “The response was great, and we got paper immediately. chemy Thread and Alkamy. By adhering to the meaning of the For the launch of the banner brand, Alchemy Thread, The dresses were very strong,” Bushman said. “One thing I was word “alchemy,” she believes these new clothing lines could Bushman designed clothing that is influenced by a laidback most excited about was our printed cotton/Modal T-shirts and strongly affect a woman’s life. California lifestyle. Heavily focused on knits, with nearly 65 casual tops in cotton/Modal jersey and slub jersey—those really “Alchemy is an ancient practice, when someone takes the percent of the line dedicated to this fabrication, and some wo- took off.” ordinary and turns it into the extraordinary, such as someone vens, Alchemy Thread relies on bold colors and prints that are While the team at Alchemy Thread and Alkamy is hopeful, who can take lead and turn it into gold,” she explained. “I am meant to flatter women’s bodies. There are vertical stripes in following a successful introduction to its new retail partners, looking at fashion alchemy. What are we transforming? We’re yellows and blues, batik-inspired prints in reds and robin-egg there remain challenges for new brands launching in the current transforming a woman’s self-image as well as transforming hues, and tie-dyed deep purple, pink and teal. apparel-manufacturing climate. what others see in her.”
TRADE-SHOW REPORT
FMNC Continued from page 1 Trump levied larger tariffs on Chinese goods, the number tops at the show. He said business was good but that around of tourists from China that visit California Lifestyle has 60 percent of his customers were making orders for Immedi- ecutive director. There were 209 exhibitors displaying fash- dropped, said Rilla Ginsberg, founder of the airport-based ates. Fern Liberson of Fern Liberson & Co also said buyers ions ranging from knit dresses, caftans, denim, outerwear retailer. “We have to capture more domestic business,” she were focusing on the near future. “I got a lot of Immediates. and lingerie to hats, footwear and jewelry. FMNC is held said. I got a little bit of Spring. I won’t complain. I got 24 stores five times throughout the year, and the October show marked However, a unique time in U.S. history does not call for in two days,” Liberson said of retailers ordering at her booth. the last event on its 2018 calendar. a specific look, said Sheryl Like any other trade The regional trade show mostly serves independent bou- Moyle, owner of the Trendz show, there was a range of tiques in the San Francisco Bay Area and the wider North- Boutique & Salon in So- opinion on the amount and ern California region. But it also attracts boutiques from the nora, Calif., which is located quality of buyer traffic. Pacific Northwest and around the Western United States. in California’s Gold Coun- Vendor reactions on buyer A wide range of boutiques visited the show, including the try. “Almost anything goes,” traffic ranged from solid to Thunder Valley Casino Resort in Placer County, 30 miles Moyle said of the current great. “Turnout is good. We northeast of Sacramento. Also attending were California style trends. Looks from the always do well here,” said Lifestyle, a boutique located in Terminal 3 of San Francis- 1980s are increasingly in Silvio Dano, who represent- co International Airport, and Suji, a boutique from Santa vogue, especially bright col- ed the European line Ivko. Monica, Calif. ors, leg warmers and acid- “We had a lot of new Consumer confidence soared to an 18-year high in Sep- wash fabrics that were big accounts, and our sched- tember, according to The Conference Board, a nonprofit during the Reagan era, said ule was busy,” said Sharon market-research group, which takes the pulse of American Tammy Cooper, who also Koshet, a veteran vendor at shoppers. The sentiment marks a rebound, said Tricia Han- works at Trendz. FMNC. cock, founder of the boutique Voluptuary in Los Gatos, While Southern Califor- It also pays to show up, Calif. nia continues to enjoy sum- according to exhibitors. De-
“Things are coming back to where they were before the merlike weather, Northern ANDREW ASCH signers Cara Ucci and Ruby [2016] election,” Hancock said. Jitters from the political tur- California retailers are antici- Lulu-B brand booth at day 2 of FMNC Bettencourt put in appear- moil of the 2016 election season caused many shoppers to pating colder weather in the ances at the Crayola Sisters scale back their consumption. Fierce competition from e- coming months, said Wink Wells, co-owner of the Wells Ap- booth. Ucci estimated that sales for her Caraucci brand in- commerce also took a bite out of bricks-and-mortar boutique parel Group. “I’m doing a lot of robes and pajamas. We’re creased 30 percent over the FMNC show in August. “Instead retail. Recently, boutique shopping started to make a rebound. selling a lot of warm clothes,” he said. of talking to customers over the phone, we met them face- “A lot of boutiques went out of business,” she said. “But peo- Faux-fur outerwear and clothes with faux-fur trim were to-face,” Ucci said. ple are coming back to shopping at boutiques. They want to featured at several booths, including at the Vine Street Ap- The FMNC calendar starts again in 2019 with the first try and feel garments again.” parel brand. show of the year scheduled to run Jan. 27–29 at the San Ma- Politics will continue to shape business. Since President Raffi Mauleon displayed his Raffi brand of hand-painted teo County Event Center.
APPARELNEWS.NET OCTOBER 26–NOVEMBER 1, 2018 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3
01.3,8-9.cover.indd 3 10/25/18 6:24 PM T-SHIRTS Cashmere N Tee Bets on Multi-Brand Boutique
By Andrew Asch Retail Editor there always seems to be room for one more. Brands currently stocked at the shop are Walk through any mall or retail street— Sundry, Monrow, LNA Clothing, Stateside some of the most prominent shops are mono- and 143. Featured cashmere brands include California Fashion Foundation brand stores that sell a wide variety of basics Minnie Rose, 27 Miles and Brazeau Tricot. From the heart of the California Fashion Association from a single fashion label. Lauren Goldstein Price points range from $100 to $400 for cash- and Samera Arkel are providing an alternative. mere. The store also sells dresses, sweaters Earlier this month, they opened a bou- and track pants. A specialty of the store is new tique devoted to tops, T-shirts and cashmere brands, Goldstein said. from a diversity of labels. The multi-brand “We like to discover new and emerging tal- Please Donate! store, Cashmere N Tee, quietly opened at ent, designers people have not seen. It keeps 409 E. Woodbury Road in Altadena, Calif., things fresh,” she said. Eventually, Cashmere We ask for your continued generosity in support of located only a few minutes’ drive from Pasa- N Tee will offer men’s and children’s styles. It the Fashion Foundation’s annual event, benefiting dena, Calif. also will focus on the e-boutique cashmeren- The 1,100-square-foot store divides half tee.com, which is scheduled to launch before 200 children from families with limited means. This of its selling space into high-end women’s T- the end of the year. celebration is often the only one these children have... shirts. The other half Currently, Arkel features cashmere and Goldstein con- sweaters, tops and sider Cashmere N scarves. Tee to be a desti- In addition to work- nation boutique. 71st Annual Christmas ing as a design assistant Arkel forecasts that and sales rep, Arkel has Altadena will be Event for Children owned fashion bou- a retail neighbor- tiques. Goldstein’s ca- hood. Residents Wednesday, December 12, 2018 reer has included work- of the city are well ing as a stylist for cable off, and Altadena is 3:30pm - 5:30pm network MTV as well surrounded by the Cooper Design Space as for personal clients. affluent enclaves of 860 S. Los Angeles Street, Penthouse She also has worked as San Marino and La a retail consultant with Cañada Flintridge. the Tucci Boutique in But Arkel said that Please join your fellow industry members and contribute the San Diego area and Altadena is under- dollars for gifts for the children’s gift bags. Madison, the promi- retailed. No fashion nent fashion boutique boutiques do busi- run by her cousin Mark ness on the same BE A SPONSOR AND JOIN US! Goldstein. street as Cashmere Confirmed Sponsors to date include: Personal shopping N Tee. However, with a forte of stylists the boutique is lo- California Apparel News; Aims 360; Ann Davis; such as Goldstein will cated a half-mile Barbara Fields; Ben & Joyce Eisenberg Foundation/ be offered as a service from Zagat-rated by Cashmere N Tee. hipster café Lin- The New Mart; Cooper Design Space; CIT; Findings Inc.; Some of the inspiration coln Pasadena. FIDM; Fineman West; Karen Kane; Kaufman & Kabani; for the store’s concept Behind the KWDZ Manufacturing; Mann Publications; came from insights store, there’s a from her previous styl- 1,500-square-foot Mermel & Mermel LLC; Moss Adams; Ragfinders of CA; ist gigs. enclosed patio Rena & Todd Leddy; STC-QST; Trish Landry for Opus “When I pulled clothes for clients, I would where the duo will host events and Arkel Bank; Velvet by Graham & Spencer; post pictures [of T-shirts and cashmere], and will sell unique and vintage furniture. they would buy it,” Goldstein said. “These are When Arkel crafted the interior design of Wells Fargo Capital Finance; Directives West; core essentials. They are the most worn items Cashmere N Tee, she strove for a clean, mini- Stony Apparel; SWAT/Fame in a women’s wardrobe. They are classic.” malist look, similar to the clothes the store As one of the most popular categories she sells. The store’s interior includes bay win- has seen in her career, more than 30 percent dows, custom-made shelving that scales the Donations made payable to: of her business came from tees and cashmere. store’s walls like ladders, and its wood floor- California Fashion Foundation Demand rarely declines, she said. Whenever ing extends up the back wall. Goldstein hopes she goes through clients’ wardrobes, she al- the store offers a relaxing milieu. “We hope it 444 S. Flower Street, 37th Floor ways sees stacks of T-shirts piled high—but feels like someone’s living room,” she said. Los Angeles, CA 90071 or ... call 213 688 6288 Calendar Oct. 28 Nov. 7 Nov. 13 NW Trend Show CALA San Francisco ReMode Pier 91, Smith Cove Terminal Fort Mason Center Los Angeles Convention Center Seattle San Francisco Los Angeles Through Oct. 30 Through Nov. 8 Through Nov. 14 Nov. 2 Nov. 8 Los Angeles Christmas Cash & Outdoor Retailer Winter Market There’s more Carry Gift Show Colorado Convention Center on ApparelNews.net. Los Angeles Convention Center Denver Los Angeles Through Nov. 11 Through Nov. 4 For calendar details and contact information, visit ApparelNews. net/events.
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4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS OCTOBER 26–NOVEMBER 1, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET
04.news.cal.indd 4 10/25/18 6:33 PM Fashion Favors The Bold.
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tx.indd 1 10/3/18 12:09 PM ACTIVEWEAR Thrive Société Forges Its Own Path in the Race to Compete With Athletic Apparel By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor “We used this beaded metal trim along seams. Using this method of building a brand through The activewear category in apparel has expanded far beyond It’s small and delicate, but it gives a tiny bit of new designs yet reimagining customer favorites, fitness enthusiasts and accomplished athletes as fashion contin- glimmer to the garments,” Neidt revealed. “That Neidt is helping to establish a legacy for Thrive So- ues to embrace the trend with chic athleisure pieces and luxuri- was a high-end runway trend that Brunello Cuci- ciété that could further elevate the company to be- ous streetwear lines. As athletic wear was beginning to cross nelli used, and Alexander Wang was using it in a come a heritage brand of athletic/athleisure apparel over into mainstream fashion, Walnut, Calif.–based Thrive way bigger way.” in the future. For the Spring 2019 collection, which Société launched its Spring 2018 women’s collection to offer a By examining the looks found on the most no- wholesales between $16 and $102, the brand is ex- unique blend of femininity and function. table luxury designers, Neidt translates these high- panding the line by improving on its solutions to “There was a hole in the market as far as active athleisure end styles into clothing that women can feel good problems customers face while working out. [was concerned], where the air of femininity wasn’t there,” the about wearing while working through the most “This Color Block Jacket, which was the shin- brand’s senior designer and triathlete Bre Neidt said. “A lot of demanding training session or simply enjoying the ing star at all the trade shows, uses this reflective activewear that is out there right now is not performance based.” latest Netflix binge-worthy series. oil slick–looking fabric,” Neidt revealed. “It’s de- While she and the company’s founder—30-year apparel-in- “The aesthetic of taking a runway trend to a signed for high performance, and it’s the highest- dustry veteran Perry Wang—wanted to create pieces that were level that is affordable and using it in a completely end jacket that we do.” based on runway designs, the collection had to meet the perfor- different way, such as on the shoulders of a run- The polyurethane jacket features a fabric simi- mance demands of athletes, which is a struggle Neidt knows ner’s tank, is not normal, but it brings an elevated lar to material used by Maison Margiela for its all too well. feel,” Neidt said. Spring ’18 line, noted Neidt. When worn by “For me, fabrication is always something that I think is re- Despite its runway influences from some of athletes who prefer to train outdoors during the ally important,” she explained. “I was tired of wearing itchy, the world’s most lauded contemporary design- darkest periods of the day and night, the material scratchy things when I worked out. It’s about being comfortable ers, Thrive Société also relies on features that are reflects the light from vehicles, thereby allowing and wanting to wear something not only during your workout influenced by common issues that athletes face. drivers to see these fitness enthusiasts. but after.” Whether a woman wants to attend a yoga class or With its Spring 2019 collection, Thrive Société With 14 years of swim and athletic-apparel design experi- participate in a triathlon, the Thrive Société collection of sports also included a plus-size capsule of pieces for women who en- ence, working with brands including Warnaco Swimwear bras is designed in different styles to provide the necessary sup- joy working out but face the challenges of finding activewear Inc., Adidas and Australian sports brand Jaggad, Neidt is port for a variety of activities. that fits their bodies. For the initial rollout of its expanded-size familiar with the evolution of the industry. As Thrive Société “It’s extremely difficult to find technical companies that pro- offerings, the company will feature pieces measuring 16–24 has grown over the last year, since its August 2017 launch at duce such beautiful activewear for runners, the gym and yogis,” and 1X–3X. “It’s four styles for Spring, and we’ll keep add- the MAGIC trade show in Las Vegas, the brand is holding on Dana Brusilovsky, a buyer for New York City–based Paragon ing through Summer into Fall, said Neidt. “We’re really excited to some of its original design features—such as knitted twill Sports, said. “This is the second season I have Thrive Société about that.” tape that yields a softer hand—and manufacturing methods that on my floor, and customers are completely thrilled. They are Working with the same beloved China-based manufacturer have contributed to its success. touching the fabric, trying it on, and the fit looks great.” since its inception, Thrive Société continues to evolve. While “People were really attracted to the details of the garments While Neidt considers how she can improve upon designs the company isn’t a completely sustainable brand, it is using and the finishing. I am super detail oriented,” Neidt explained. in the future, if a piece proves to be extremely popular with more-responsible manufacturing and dyeing processes. The “Bound seams on the interior of hoodies and twill tape at the customers, she will rework it slightly and release the altered brand has included fabrics such as brushed bamboo and recy- back of the neck—those finishing details are really important. version during the next season. cled polyester for certain styles. I want your garment to be as beautiful hanging on the back of “We kept some of our best-selling pieces, recolored them “Trying to find sustainable fabrics that don’t completely your chair as it is on you.” and carried them forward,” she said. “For Fall, we tried to bring obliterate the price point is important,” Neidt said as she ex- Through four collections a year, the brand is relying not a bit more functionality to our athleisure pieces. We added re- plained that the industry is shifting toward more–environmen- on simple athletic-wear and athleisure trends but also on flective bungee, which was fun because it looks cool, but it also tally responsible practices. “When I am sourcing, if I have two those that are found on the runway during each season on reflects light if you’re wearing it during a workout during dusk fabric swatches in front of me, one says recycled or eco, I am the fashion calendar. or dawn. We keep customers safe.” going toward that selection.”
Webinar: Less Becomes More. Responsible Textile Consumerism Dec. 4, 2018 9 a.m. PST
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06.thrive.indd 6 10/25/18 6:40 PM SUSTAINABILITY Using Reclaimed Fabric to Promote a Sustainable Manufacturing Model Associate Editor By Dorothy Crouch “In our workshop, we try to promote from For Tonlé apparel-brand owner within the team and Rachel Faller, entering into fashion have people learn trans- wasn’t part of her career plan when she ferable skills,” she said. studied textile design at the Maryland There are 30 cut- Institute College of Art, where she and-sew professionals focused on fine art and sculpture. in Faller’s workshop, “I loved making things, but I knew but in 2016 she started that the fashion industry had problems, working with Weaves and I wasn’t sure how to participate in of Cambodia, a non- a way that I felt good about,” she said. profit organization Rachel Faller in her workshop It wasn’t until 2007—during a trip started by American to Cambodia—that Faller met artisans veterans of the Vietnam War. Many of the workers employed who were using fair-trade practices. by the organization were left permanently disabled from land- She realized apparel could be manu- mines placed in the region during the conflict. factured without contributing to the The comprehensive approach to ethical manufacturing is waste issues that occur during clothing resonating with Tonlé’s clientele. At Berkeley, Calif.–based production. boutique Palm & Perkins, Genna Gershkow and Julia Gor- After receiving a Fulbright grant A Srey Dun sweater in Palm A fabric market in the Beung Sayap area of Cambodia’s don focus on telling the stories behind the ethically made to research methods for sustainable and a bias-cut shirt from capital, Phnom Penh goods they sell. textile production in Cambodia, Faller Tonlé’s Autumn/Winter 2018 “Her [Faller’s] style is on point for us. It’s simple, but it has recognized the need for socially re- collection fun and interesting touches that make it different from any other sponsible, sustainably produced clothing and launched her own proach to ethical, sustainable fashion and rebranded her busi- piece of clothing that I’ve seen,” Gershkow explained as she ethical fashion brand, named KeoK’jay, in 2008. ness as Tonlé, the Khmer word for river. Searching for alterna- discussed her store’s business, which launched last November. “There was a gap in the market for ethically made, sustain- tive sources of fabrics, Faller started to use a combination of As part of the shift toward conscientious shopping, Gersh- able clothing that was wearable and usable on a daily basis,” dead stock, cutaways and smaller scraps. kow feels that consumers are starting to think about the ori- she said. “In 2014, I rebranded as Tonlé,” Faller said. “It was at this gins of their clothing. “Hearing about Tonlé and Rachel’s story There isn’t a large raw-materials market in Cambodia, and time we adopted a totally zero-waste model.” opened up our customers’ eyes to value that product,” she said. Faller was unable to find the organic fabrics that she wanted to By simply sourcing her materials through reclaiming fabrics With the launch of the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2018 col- use in her womenswear designs. Instead, she searched second- from factories, Faller provides Tonlé’s workers with enough re- lection, Tonlé has saved 14,000 pounds of textile waste from hand markets for used clothing and linens and soon found piles sources to create her line through the company’s San Francisco entering landfills in this single line, positioning the company to of fabric waste from local apparel factories. flagship and select boutique partners. The brand recycles ap- exceed its annual average. Wholesale pricing ranges from $20 “That is how I discovered there was a huge amount of waste proximately 20,000 pounds of fabric annually. to $96, depending on the fabric and construction, with pieces coming out of the garment industry,” Faller explained, as she In addition to her sustainable mission, Faller follows ethi- that include hand-woven details selling at the highest cost. described her shift toward sourcing pre-consumer recycled ma- cal production standards for the clothing as well. The Tonlé “One of the other ethical sides of the business is making it terials. “We don’t need to create new materials when there is so workshop in Cambodia uses a station-based approach, where approachable,” Faller said. “There is a ton of high-minded eco much waste.” workers move between tasks to learn different skills, which will fashion not accessible to people who want to be a part of this With this shift, Faller wanted to emphasize her improved ap- make them more employable. but don’t have a lot of money.”
APPARELNEWS.NET OCTOBER 26–NOVEMBER 1, 2018 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7
07.tonle.indd 7 10/25/18 6:43 PM DENIM REPORT
Denim Continued from page 1
private-equity group that bought the company in 2016 decided it wasn’t profitable to make the fabric any- more. Consequently, the company’s selvage-denim operations at its White Oak mill in Greensboro, N.C., shut down at the end of 2017 after being in operation since 1905. That left denim makers scrambling to find selvage-denim sources outside the United States—principally in Ja- pan and Italy. But selvage-denim en- thusiasts are hoping more people like Kat and Ryan Huston KARLOS RENE AYALA Inside Huston Textile Co.
Huston will fill the void in the United States. Tony Patella, co-founder of Tellason jeans in Sausalito, Calif., who was us- ing Cone Denim selvage denim to make his premium-denim pants, is a purist and would like to see that kind of selvage- denim production done in the United States again. “I have this thing about his- torical products coming from where their history started,” he said. Huston has the same philosophy. It was in 2013 that he happened into the manufacturing business by using old looms to make a baby carrier–specific Get Inspired! fabric and later moved into other fabrics, including denim. “Then the vintage workwear enthusi- Hundreds of Stocked asts contacted us about making shirting Novelty Knits, material and selvage denim and that got Wovens, Linings us on track,” said Huston, whose com- pany inside the former military hangar
and More! PAIGE GREEN is home to the business’ looms, sewing Weaving chambray fabric One Roll Minimum. machines, a 40-foot-long cutting table, winders, warpers, a knotting machine, a www.cinergytextiles.com fabric re-roller and tons of parts. fade with a more natural look. “One of the Huston, who runs his company with his important things about blue-jeans denim is Tel: 213-748-4400 wife, Kat, has found that his fabrics—which that it fades,” he noted. [email protected] include cotton duck, canvas, chambray, Right now, Huston is doing runs of sul- and wool-and-cotton blends made on old fur-dyed denim and bull denim, but indigo looms—have become more popular than his is his preference. Custom orders for his sel- selvage denim, which right now only makes vage denim take about six months, with fab- Apparel News Group WEB PRODUCTION FINANCE up 7 percent of his production. But he is ric selling for $12 to $30 a yard, depending MORGAN WESSLER MARILOU DELA CRUZ hoping to change that when he finds a U.S. on the quantity ordered. CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR DAVID MARTINEZ LOUISE DAMBERG CREDIT MANAGER company that produces indigo-dyed yarns The process to make his selvage denim DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING RITA O’CONNOR for his selvage denim. Indigo lets denim starts when he places an order with a spinner 731945-2018 TERRY MARTINEZ
Seventy-three years of news, SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE PUBLISHED BY fashion and information AMY VALENCIA TLM PUBLISHING INC. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE APPAREL NEWS GROUP CEO/PUBLISHER LYNNE KASCH Publishers of: TERRY MARTINEZ California Apparel News BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Waterwear MOLLY RHODES Decorated EXECUTIVE EDITOR SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST DEBORAH BELGUM ASHLEY KOHUT EXECUTIVE OFFICE California Market Center RETAIL EDITOR ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 ANDREW ASCH CHRIS MARTIN RACHEL MARTINEZ Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 ASSOCIATE EDITOR (213) 627-3737 DOROTHY CROUCH SALES ASSISTANT Fax (213) 623-5707 CONTRIBUTORS PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY Classified Advertising Fax ALYSON BENDER CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE (213) 623-1515 VOLKER CORELL JEFFERY YOUNGER www.apparelnews.net JOHN ECKMIER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES [email protected] JOHN McCURRY & RESOURCE SECTION ESTEVAN RAMOS JUNE ESPINO TIM REGAS PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. N. JAYNE SEWARD PRODUCTION MANAGER HOPE WINSBOROUGH KENDALL IN NATALIE ZFAT EDITORIAL DESIGNER JOHN FREEMAN FISH KRISTY WELDON KRISTY WELDON KRISTY WELDON Denim roll and pants Woven denim roll Denim roll
8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS OCTOBER 26–NOVEMBER 1, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET
01.3,8-9.cover.indd 8 10/25/18 6:26 PM NEWS Forced Labor Targeted in New Agreement Apparel is one of the industries marked by forced labor in said Rick Helfenbein, president and chief executive officer of workers pay large fees to secure a job. its supply chain. Some prominent members of the industry the American Apparel & Footwear Association. “With this renewed commitment to responsible recruit- recently took steps to protect migrant workers from forced “Creating a more transparent supply chain has long been a ment, we hope to bring the power of collective action to labor in their supply chains as part of an effort to implement focus of the apparel and footwear industry, and removing the highlight these harmful, and sometimes deceptive, practices ethical standards. possibility of forced labor is a major part of these efforts,” and protect workers against forced labor in global supply Recently, 123 apparel and footwear companies signed Helfenbein said. chains,” she said. the AAFA/FLA Apparel & Footwear Industry Commitment “Not only does this commitment show that our industry does Companies signing this agreement include Fair Labor to Responsible Recruitment. The agreement’s signatories not tolerate forced labor, but it also shows our customers that we Association members including Outerknown, Patagonia, promised to work with their supply-chain partners to combat take this issue seriously and are proactively working together Nike, Adidas, Fruit of the Loom, Gildan, Delta Galil and conditions that create an environment for forced labor. as an industry to initiate measures to ensure these values are Under Armour. Other signatories such as Levi Strauss & The agreement includes stipulations that no worker must respected throughout the supply chain. We hope that many other Co. were already following codes of conduct for responsible pay fees to get a job. Other rules include guarantees that work- members of our community will join us in the near future.” supply-chain practices. Also signing the agreement were ers must retain control of their travel documents and have full Sharon Waxman, president and chief executive officer Carhartt, Eileen Fisher, Lucky Brand, Nordstrom, Perry freedom of movement. Also, workers will be informed of the of the Fair Labor Association, said that forced labor often Ellis International, Vanity Fair and Columbia Sportswear basic terms of their employment before joining the workforce, starts out with recruitment practices that require migrant Company.—Andrew Asch
DENIM REPORT
Denim Continued from previous page in old textile machinery. Often purchases are done through put the project on the back burner, but once Cone shut down, word of mouth. “I got a couple of looms for free,” said Hus- we shipped the [six] looms to our warehouse to get them go- in North Carolina who uses mostly U.S.-grown Upland cot- ton, who has let people know he is in the market for shuttle ing. There are a lot of our customers who have their brands ton for the order. The yarn is then twisted in one of two mills looms. “A couple in Connecticut bought a house, and in the based on U.S.-made selvage denim as well as ourselves who in the South, sent to a dyer and then on to Huston Textile. shed behind the house were a few looms.” sell it.” Using U.S. fabric manufacturers is important to Kristine They contacted him. He drove to the East Coast, picked When Davoodi heard Cone Denim was closing down, he Vejar, whose natural-yarns-and-fabrics store in Oakland, up the looms and had them shipped to California. bought 500,000 yards of its selvage denim. “We sell these Calif., is called A Verb for Keeping Warm. She buys fab- Through a broker, a shuttle loom can cost as much as fabrics to people all over the world. I have customers in Ja- ric from Huston Textile because the environment’s health is $50,000, depending on its condition, Huston said. pan and Thailand,” he noted. “There is a very strong market very important to her. “It is precisely for these reasons why While Huston is trying to ramp up his selvage-denim pro- for U.S.-made selvage denim. Once Cone shut down, every- I am proud to support Huston Textile. They are a U.S.-based duction, a Los Angeles company that sells and distributes one was looking to us and saying, ‘What are we going to do?’ manufacturer that uses materials raised on U.S. farms,” she wholesale denim fabric is taking the first steps toward manu- Hopefully by next year we will be producing something.” wrote in an email. “We carry anywhere from Huston Textile facturing selvage denim by as early as next year. Other people, such as U.S. blue-jeans manufacturers, also organic-cotton canvas, wool cloth, wool/cotton cloth to their Omid Davoodi, chief executive of Los Angeles–based Pa- bought up what was left of Cone Denim’s selvage denim last naturally dyed indigo cloth.” cific Blue Denims, said he has acquired six Draper shuttle year, but supplies will start dwindling. looms and has another 28 similar looms in storage in Gua- Ryan Huston is counting on it. “When Cone closed, I The search for old machinery temala. heard from my customers that they were stocking up inven- “We started on this project before Cone Denim shut its tory,” he said. “It hurt my business, but as they use that sup- To find old Draper shuttle looms can be a bit of a trea- mill down,” said Davoodi, whose family-run company was ply they are going to have a harder time finding it. I’m hop- sure hunt. There is a small network of cognoscenti who deal started in 1988. “We had these machines for years and had ing that will benefit me.” T-Shirt Resources
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YEARS $2.99 VOLUME 74, NUMBER 35 AUGUST 24–30, 2018 73 YEARS 73 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR L.A. Retail Real-Estate 73 YEARS THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR Destination: Denim Fashion Week Organizers Scene Outpaces Some THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR Keep Los Angeles on the City Los Angeles Parts of the U.S. By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Fashion Map is an impressive educational institution E-commerce business has been skyrocketing, but judging Denim City from retail vacancies in Los Angeles County, bricks-and- , By Deborah Belgum and Dorothy Crouch that has a jean school that incorporates a three-year denim- mortar retail is still a contender. JLL Fashion Week is always a hectic time in Los Angeles, es- development program to train people in all aspects of the Retail vacancies in Los Angeles County were a low 4.0 pecially with all of the different forces around town organiz- blue-jeans industry with courses, workshops, access to the percent in the second quarter of 2018, according to ing runway shows in disparate locations. joined forces showrooms of world-renowned denim designers and a retail a Chicago-area commercial-real-estate investment-manage- The fashion week sceneSmashbox has evolved Studios over the years. Four- space for consumers. ment company. IMG and With so much concentration on denim and blue jeans, one This vacancy rate represents a slight uptick from 2017, teen years ago, when vacancies were at 3.9 percent. But it is lower than the to organize a tight and cohesive formula for shows that ran would assume that Denim City is located in Los Angeles, 5.9 percent vacancy rate seen in 2009 at the height of the day and night in a commercial photography studio in Culver the world’s denim manufacturing center. But it’s not. It is located in Amsterdam. and denim leaders Great Recession, according to JLL. City, Calif. Core prices for Los Angeles County retail real estate range After five years, that joint venture dissolved in 2008, but Denim City was founded in 2014 as a collaboration be- , Style Fashion Week House of Denim Foundation from $6 to $10 per square foot for popular retail streets, ac- several new organizations stepped in to fill the void. tween the LA Fashion Week cording to Houman Mahboubi, JLL’s executive vice presi- Twice a year, with a mission to improve production through cleaner, more ➥ Retail Real Estate page 8 dent. But prices can skyrocket to $90 per square foot for the and Art Hearts Fashion enlist scores of designers from Los sustainable and less pollutive methods. Now some blue-jeans veterans in Los Angeles are work- Angeles and around the world for informative runway shows that migrate to venues around the city. ing toward developing a similar initiative➥ and Denim asking, City “Whypage 3 For an inside look into the organizers behind the shows, has this taken so long to bring it here?” turn to pages 24–26 for profiles of the shows’ founders. Fashion Domino Knocks Down E-Commerce Ron Herman’s Apparel Production in Roadblocks for Apparel Mexico Will Change Manufacturers
Next Step Is By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor ARLEN KASHISHIAN ARLEN
Slightly Under NAFTA 2.0 The importance of e-commerce continues to grow as MANNY LLANURA MANNY More Japan manufacturers seek tools to fortify their have relationships been offering with on- By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor buyers. and FashionGo JOE GARCIA JOE LA Showroom By Andrew Asch Retail Editor is a relatively new upstart Ron The renegotiated free-trade deal between the United line business-to-businessFashion Domino wholesale platforms for nearly 20 years. But Ron Herman has spent his career introducing some of the States and Mexico has a new name and a new set of rules launched last spring to provide a more affordable service world’s most famous denim brands from his self-named that will make it a little more difficult to manufacture ap- tailored to manufacturers’ needs through a platform created Herman store, which for decades has been a pioneer in the parel in Mexico. Los Angeles boutique business. From what trade experts know, the changes for apparel by their peers who have been in the business and know the For his next step, he wants to introduce to Los Angeles challenges that apparel brands face. in the new free-trade accord, now being called the United “A lot of these sites are filled with resellers—people who a slate of house brands selling at his Ron Herman chain of States–Mexico Trade Agreement unless Canada decides buy from other manufacturers and sell at wholesale,” said stores in Japan. to continue negotiating, aren’t draconian. That is probably ➥ Fashion Domino page 3
Yul Kwon, a 16-year apparel-industry veteran who is a board IMAGES AB / BERLINER ALEZX He is shooting for 2019 to bring those lines stateside because the United States doesn’t have a trade deficit with while at the same time adding new collaboration lines with Mexico when it comes to apparel and textiles under the cur- various designers and brands. He forecast that the upcom- rent North American Free Trade Agreement. ing slate of Ron Herman products will be sold at only a few We export about $8 billion a year in apparel and textile : SM the costumes are up for Emmy awards. Above are the select doors outside of Japan. , to Los Ange- products—mostly fabric and other raw materials—and im- INSIDE CREATIVE COSTUMEcostumes from the TV seriesDESIGN “Genius: Picasso,” the story of Where fashion gets down to business Not only will heand bring Ron theHerman Japanese-only California➥ Ron brands, Herman includ- page 14 port about $5 billion. ➥ NAFTA page 3 Pablo Picasso. For more from the exhibition, see page 6. ing RH Vintage But still, the full details of the accord haven’t been revealed The art of TV costume design was the focus of a new exhibition that opened at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in downtown Los Angeles. Many of European Brands Are 88 SM : : SM 6 INSIDE INSIDE 3 : SM the Main Focus at FMNC Where fashion gets down to business Where fashion gets down to business TRADE SHOW REPORT INSIDE STEPPING OUT Where fashion gets down to business By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Fashion Market Northern California Los Angeles designer Nathalia Gaviria set out to show she has a Trump levies tariffs on Chinese goods ... p. 2 Wide-Ranging Shows in Las Even though the L.A. bans fur ... p. 2 show was right after the big shows in Las Vegas, the three- 8 different take on fashion during her Art Hearts Fashion runway day event in San Mateo, Calif., was a time to focus on Eu- 8 New investors in Liberty Fairs ... p. 2 Vegas Keep Retailers Busy ropean lines. 6 7 The Aug. 19–21 show was scheduled just before the Sep- show in New York. For looks from other Los Angeles designers Academy of Art University shows at NYFW ... p. 7 Sustainability and combining e-commerce with bricks- tember deadlines to place orders with European manufactur- MANNY LLANURA MANNY seen during Art Hearts Fashion, see page 7. and-mortar stores were topics that were front and center at The ers. showroom at
National Stores files bankruptcy ... p. 2 the recent Las Vegas trade shows, which opened on Aug. 11 “It’s a strong market for European lines,” said Mary Min- ARLEN KASHISHIAN ARLEN www.apparelnews.net Guess’s second-quarter results ... p. 2 show at 8 Mary Minser Sales New fiber technology ... p. 12 and closed on Aug. 16. ser, who owns the New Macy’s pop-up stores ... p. 2 A number of seminars wereSourcing held about at MAGICsustainability, 7 in Los Angeles. “If you have European collec-
JOE GARCIA JOE FASHION TEMPO
Harmony and color were front and center in the Resort New Mart Swim and Active Collective shows ... p. 20 IMAGES NEVADER/GETTY ARUN Forever 21’s new AI e-commerce feature ... p. 4 which was the focus of the tions that break now, the buyers are trained to buy it now. It Fall 2019 active trends ... p. 22 the Las Vegas Convention Center. might be sold out by October,” she said. collection created by Trina Turk, known for her styles that Made in America Resources ... p. 9 Figuring out the right retail formula that blends online Resource Directory ... p. 28 With Minser said that many European lines do not produce a are always colorful. For more looks, see page 6. sales with store sales was also a hot topic at more than 15 Runway and Roadway Activewear category growing ... p. 2 strong market for Immediates orders, which have been in- trade shows that covered four different locations. creasingly popular in the United States for the➥ past FMNC few page years. 2 LA Fashion Week and the Petersen Automotive Museum joined forces www.apparelnews.net www.apparelnews.net TECH FOCUS Traffic for many of the shows was even with last year, Surfwear making comeback ... p. 4 to organize a fashion show of Escada gowns along with Porsche Design but retailers and buyers who attended were more committed Surf and Active Resources ... p. 9 menswear to coordinate with a Porsche exhibit at the Los Angeles museum. to placing orders as the U.S. economy continues to expand. For more looks from the fashion show, see page 16. textile preview U.S. tariffs on Chinese clothing were on everyone’s mind 9/20/18 6:01 PM and even kept a number of Chinese factories away from www.apparelnews.net 8/9/18 4:38 PM 8/30/18 6:08 PM Sourcing at MAGIC.
JONATHAN SKOW JONATHAN Our extensive coverage of the Las Vegas trade shows be- gins on page 3 and continues on pages 7–9. 8/23/18 5:20 PM
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