DIRECTORY © LonelyPlanetPublications 688
www.lonelyplanet.com Directory Directory find budget accommodation atupto$100per Wellington andChristchurch). Here youwill to 25%inthenation’s largest cities(Auckland, $150. Priceranges generally increase by20% toanydoubleroomcosting overtop-end tag to $150perdouble,whilewe’ve given the qualifies asmidrange $80 ifitcostsroughly per singleor$80double. Accommodation budget accommodationifitcharges upto$65 expensive. Wegenerally designate aplaceas are ordered bybudget fromcheapest tomost living andrelaxed to tirelessly party-prone. and hostels thatrange incharacter fromclean- motel units,beautifullysituated campsites facility-laden hotels, uniform comfortably thatcreak inguesthouses night withhistory, youcanbeddownat Across NewZealand, CONTENTS ACCOMMODATION oe rvles 707 705 706 Work 707 Women Travellers 700 Visas 706 700 Travellers withDisabilities Tourist Information Time 705 Telephone 704 Shopping 703 Post 702 697 698 Money 701 Maps 701 Legal Matters 697 Internet Access 695 Insurance 699 696 Holidays 699 694 Gay &Lesbian Travellers Food 698 Festivals &Events Embassies &Consulates Dangers &Annoyances Climate Charts Children 694 Business Hours 693 Activities Accommodation listingsinthisguidebook icutCrs 696 Discount Cards Customs 695 Accommodation 689 line, withroomsonoffer from ineverything hamlets andonstretches of isolated coast- popping upinthemiddleof cities,inrural private homesisagrowthindustryinNZ, andbreakfast ( Bed B&B) accommodation in ries producedby Motels, Motor Lodges &Apartments well asthe the Zealand Accommodation Guide dation directories, includingtheannual one of NZ’sfree, widelyavailable accommo- on yourbehalf. Alternatively, flickthrough to-date prices;manycanalsomake bookings the formof folders facilitiesandup- detailing of localaccommodationinformation,often in .hotels.com etc)forlast-minute deals. (www.wotif.com, www.lastminute.com, www the big-nameglobal accommodationwebsites advertised rates –asklate intheday.Alsosee offer walk-inrates thatare significantlybelow off theirfeet, accommodationoperators often rates abound.Whenthey’reseason notrun discoverplies), andyou’llcertainly thatlow- hotels inlarger cities,where thereverse ap- than weekend rates (exceptinbusiness-style ratesAt othertimes,weekday maybecheaper winter insnowyresort townslike Queenstown. Christmas tolate January; andduring atEaster; its priciest)duringthesummerholidaysfrom Accommodation ismostindemand(andat bookyourbedwellinadvance. ist seasons, top endroomsmore than $200. double, midrange $100and$200, between B&Bs &Guesthouses Visitor informationcentres provide reams If you’re travelling duringpeaktour- of all,youcanbook online. Reviews are thorough andindependent.Best insider lowdownon thebestplacestostay. lonelyplanet.com/hotels. You’llfindthe true, at service check outtheonlinebooking ommendations byLonelyPlanetauthors, For more accommodation reviews and rec- BOOK YOURSTAY ONLINE Automobile Association Automobile Holiday Parks &Campgrounds Jasons
(www.jaso ns.com) (www.jaso (AA; www.aatravel.co.nz)
publishedby directo- .
689 New
, as and DIRECTORY DIRECTORY ifrain centres. information available online, andatbookshopsvisitor Bed &Breakfast Book Check conditionsbefore you book. deposit plusthebalanceof theroomrate. of yourarrivaldate andyou’llforfeit your cellation policies–iecancelwithin aweek advance, andenforcestrictexpensive can- bookings anddepositsatleastamonth in their home. Many upmarket B&Bsdemand abedroomin prices forwhatis,inessence, tinue tobecheeky-as-a-Kea, charging hefty upwards of $300perdouble. Somehosts con- double) bracket, someplacescharge though packages. (DB&B) guests andadvertise dinner,bedandbreakfast restaurants are limited, maycookdinnerfor locations orwithinthesmallertownswhere sages. SomeB&Bhosts,especially inisolated cooked baconandsau- mealincludingeggs, bread orastomach-loading or muffins), fruit,home-baked (addyoghurt, continental’ (cereal,nental’ toast,tea orcoffee), ‘hearty Yourmorningmealmaybe‘conti- houses. B&Bs, itmayornotfeature atguest- rooms. self-contained areguesthouses reasonable fancyandoffer impersonal atmosphere of manymotels. Some bypeoplewhoeschewplaces patronised the hotels,‘private’ mostlylow-key (unlicensed) by onefamily for generations. suburban bungalowstostatelymanors owned 690 .bed-and-breakfast.co.nz) and Guesthouses areGuesthouses cheap, usuallyspartan, Tariffs are typicallyinthe$120to $180(per breakfastAlthough isincludedatgenuine The PRACTICALITIES
Watch one of the four national commercial TV stations (TV One, TV2, TVNZ 6and Maori TVNZ One,TV2, stations(TV WatchoneofthefournationalcommercialTV Tune into FM NationalforcurrentRadio affairsandConcert for classicalandjazz(seewww Fornews,leafthroughAuckland’s adaptor(thesameasinAustralia; Useathree-pin different adaptors)to toBritishthree-pin Videos youbuyorwatchwillbebasedonthePAL system –thesame system usedin For weights and measures, NZusesthemetricsystem. IETR • Acmoain ••Accommodation DIRECTORY Television) (www.skytv.co.nz). orthesubscriber-only SkyTV (www.hauraki.co.nz) cranksouttheclassicrock(toomuchSplitEnzisbarelyraki enough...). .radionz.co.nz forfrequencies). FM Kiwi Hau- (www.kiwifm.co.nz) plays100%NZmusic;Radio supply(230VAC,plug yourselfintotheelectricity 50Hz). Australia, theUKandmostofEurope. Christchurch’s B&B Directoryof NewZealand The
Press (www.bnb.co.nz) are newspapers, orcheckoutwww.stuff.co.nz. New Zealand New Zealand Herald, (www ad forests. and sively centralornearlakes, beaches, rivers but insmallertownstheycanbeimpres- parks are usuallyafairwayfromtheaction, roomsoften feature.and TV Incitiesholiday communal kitchens, diningareas andgames are often calledtouristflats.Well-equipped unitsthat rooms), cabinsandself-contained unpowered sites, cheap bunkrooms(dorm parks’, slumberingpeacefullyinpowered and verge uponNZ’shugely popular‘holiday drivers alike con- andcampervan Campers Camping &CampervanParks ranging from $80to$120. Somefarmshave Costs canvarywidely, withB&Bgenerally orchards anddairy,sheep and cattlefarms. get somedirt beneath theirfingernails at side of NZ life, withvisitors encouraged to Farmstays openthedooronagricultural Farmstays For more information,see Tramping ( p79 ). most of which canonlybereached onfoot. looks after hundreds of backcountryhuts, of Conservation camping groundsmanaged bythe head foroneof the250-plus,vehicle-accessible locations suchdeveloped asnationalparks, huts andcabins are for two people. sites, we’ve listed forcampsites, campervan per double. theprices Unlessnoted otherwise, modation normallyranges from$50to$100 a coupleof dollars more. accom- Cabin/unit children powered charged sites are half-price; $12and$16peradult,with is usuallybetween If you’llgladlyswapfacilitiesforwilder,less- The nightly costofThe nightly holiday-park camping Wellington’s
(DOC; www.doc.govt.nz) Dominion Post lonelyplanet.com or . DOC also . DOC Department Department out thecountryon its website. farms throughout NZprovidingfarms throughout lodgingin duces abooklet($25)thatlistsaround190 accommodation. backpacker-style food, whileothers offer low-cost,shared, cottages whereseparate youcanfixyourown lonelyplanet.com for $50 (including postage; see thewebsite for for $50(includingpostage; see any memberhostel, orhave overseas onesent difference. Pickupamembership cardfrom notallhostel though ownersnight, charge the let. Non-members payanextra$2to$4per (free) greater thantherates advertised intheannual atmemberhostels atacostno you tostay $45, includinga$20phonecard,andentitles Membership andfarmstays. homestays costs has around370hostels onitsbooks,including Hostels NZ’s biggest hostel groupis HOSTEL ORGANISATIONS are the non-membership rates. Hostel bedpriceslisted thisbook throughout modern structures you’llfindinthebigcities. hotels façadesandthetowering withscuffed withahandfulofaffairs bedstorefurbished hostels, rangingfromsmall,homestay-style NZ ispacked totherafters withbackpacker .co.nz) Rural HolidaysNZ exchange forfourtosixhours workperday. Hostels Farm HelpersinNZ but it’sa definite misnomer. ofexploitation,and probablyharmless,mention thelackof anorganic farm).It’savaguekind the nameofwwoofing, withoutrequiring membershiporproviding anyofthe benefits (notto to beworking. Holiday Scheme( p706 considerswwoofers) whenyouvisitNZ,astheimmigrationdepartment elling together);tohave yourbooksentoverseas ofaWorking costs$45.You shouldbepart stay, asyouwouldforahotel orhostel –don’tturnupunannounced! on organic farmingexperience. farmownersaweekortwobeforehand Contact toarrangeyour farm, inexchangeforahardday’swork, ownersprovide food,accommodation andsomehands- gardens andotherenvironmentallysound cottageindustriesacrossthecountry.Downon Australia) scores youabooklistingmanyhundreds oforganic and permaculture farms,market international organisation (whichhasrepresentatives inAfrica, America,Europe Asia, and North 544 9890;www.wwoof.co.nz; POBox1172,Nelson7040) doing somevoluntaryworkasamemberof aneconomicalwayoftravelling aroundNZinvolvesIf youdon’tmindgettingyourhandsdirty, WWOOFING lists farmstays and homestays through- andhomestays listsfarmstays One wordofcaution: itseemsthatsomehostels have employingtravellers started under membershipcosts$40ifyoujoinwithinNZ (foroneperson,ortwopeopletrav- A two-year BBH BackpackerAccommodation
(BBH; % 03-379 3014;www.bbh.co.nz) DIRECTORY ••Accommodation DIRECTORY
( %
03-355 6218;www.ruralholidays (FHINZ; www.fhinz.co.nz) Budget Backpacker Budget Backpacker , which pro- book- Willing WorkersonOrganic Farms . Membership of this popular, well-established . Membershipofthispopular,well-established and memberdiscounts(transport,activities Discount Guide bag. Theannual tobringasleeping bed linensoyoudon’tneed five days).NZYHA toseven hostels supplyall There’s often period(usually amaximum-stay facilities and,inlarger hostels, travel offices. laundry facilities, acommunalarea withaTV, rooms. Theyhave 24-houraccess,cooking twin anddoublerooms,sometimeswithbath- six beds)andmostalsohave asupplyof single, in dorms(bunkrooms,usuallywithfourto modation forindividuals,familiesandgroups of anextra$3 per night. Hostels also take non-YHA members atacost $20and$40perpersonbetween formembers. charges$14 phonecard.Nightly are usually hostels for $40for12months, includinga home, youcanbuyoneatmajor NZYHA don’t already have amembership cardfrom NZhostels.bership Ifyou entitlesyoutouse member inyourowncountry,mem- Federation (IYHF).Ifyou’re already anHI also knownasInternational YouthHostel International locations. TheYHA ispartof the for 75years andhashostels in51primeNZ 299, 03-3799970;www.yha.co.nz) how popular)each hostel is. tells youhowgood(oratleast that supposedly traveller feedback, usingapercentage figure BBHrates eachdetails). hostel accordingto YHA hostels provide reliable, basicaccom- NZ’s Youth Hostels Association Youth Hostels
(HI; www.hihostels.com) booklet details allKiwi bookletdetails hostels YHA NewZealand Hostel & has been around hasbeen
(WWOOF; (YHA; (YHA;
% network, % Hostelling Hostelling 0800 278
03-
691 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY If youencounter such discrimination, either overseas travellers, typicallyinner-city places. try, bewarnedthat somehostels onlyadmit for a few tents. bathroom facilities).Somealsohave space twin ordoubleroom(usuallywith shared $38 to$50forasingleand $70 fora typically charge $20to$28foradormbed, themselves ‘unsuitable for children’. ily, note thatanumberof hostels designate Iftravellingyour expectations. withyourfam- atmosphere andfacilitiescorrespond with before handingover thecashtoensure the if possible,check outyouraccommodation formula, butwithindividualitycomesrisk: tour bookings.Thisisusuallyasuccessful and themenights and kayaks,shuttle buses, breakfasts, free of DVDs,spapools,use bikes while others buryyouinextrassuch asfree avoidance of noisybusgroups of backpackers lazy gardens,personable management and petitors: somepromote low-key ambience, tiate their propertiesfromtheirclubbycom- impressive rate. Owners tryhardtodifferen- tels, hatching themacrossbothislandsatan NZ isanincubatorforindependenthos- INDEPENDENT HOSTELS opportunities aplenty. cleandorms,girls-onlyareasExpect andparty newish chain hostels aroundNZ. witheight online. or pating hostels, backpacker travel agencies accommodation. Youcanjoinatpartici- like VIPoffers NZ$1off thecostof nightly Membership costsA$39for12months and NZ inAuckland,WellingtonandRotorua. only ahandfulof throughout franchisees travel. backpacker VIP hostels oratlarger agencies dealingin join online(www.vipbackpackers.com), at to a$1discountonaccommodation.Youcan receive a12-monthmembership entitlingyou Europe andAmerica. Foraround$38you’ll in nearbyFiji,Australia,southernAfrica, organisation withalarge networkof hostels major touristspots.VIPisaninternational around 70NZhostels, mainlyinthecitiesand pocket for on-the-road reference. their etc). Stuff 692 Base Backpackers Nomads Backpackers VIP Backpackers If you’re aKiwitravelling inyourowncoun- Independent backpacker establishments IETR • Acmoain ••Accommodation DIRECTORY Backpacker Map
(www.basebackpackers.com) (www.basebackpackers.com) (www.vip.co.nz)
(www.nomadsworld.com) represents inyour are a has These tend tobesquatstructuresThese congre- $80and$160fordoublerooms.between motels and‘motorlodges’,low-rise charging mean youwon’thave to pay these. book, butdiscountsandspecialdealsoften vertised rates) forsuch this placesthroughout opulence. Wequote ‘rackrates’ (official ad- and/orhistoric their modcons,snappyservice tels, allof which charge aheftypremium for and architecturally-splendorous boutiqueho- international chains,star resort complexes common. more $40/60is bathroom downthehall),though costaslittle$30/50(withasharedmight ness. Inthecheapest pubs,singles/doubles –youcouldbeinforsomesleepless- night there’s abandcrankingoutthetunesthat towards theendof check theweek, whether solo. Ifyou’re renting aroomabove apub best avoided, especiallybywomentravelling others are grotty,ramshackle placesthatare full of character andlocalcharacters, while elsewhere, someofcase NZ’soldpubsare modation isthehumblepub.As isoften the The leastexpensive formof NZ hotel accom- Hotels &Motels ine traveller andnota bedless neighbour. try anotherhostel orinsistthatyou’re agenu- sl-otie bungalow. self-contained or which isn’tbad forawholehouse night, at atime. Pricesare typically$80to$130 per some are onlyavailable foroneortwonights handy forlonger inaregion, stays although areas, often in isolated locations.Theycanbe tages thatcanberented inruralandcoastal cot- are‘cribs’. These simpleself-contained andSouthland they’rein Otago known as single menashuntingandfishing hide-outs); (short for‘bachelor’ astheywere often by used The basic Kiwi holidayhomeiscalleda ‘bach’ Rental Accommodation ‘Sorry, ourmotel is full tonight’. our motels to, are asopposed fulltonight’, plex of hear,‘Sorry, rooms–soyoumight as a‘motel’, ratherthanthecollective com- SomeKiwisreferstandard. totheactualroom –pricesvarywith coffee-making, fridge, TV) the ’80s)andhave similarfacilities(tea- and décorisoftenmodernish (though mired in ontheedgehighways of towns.Mostare gating justoutsideCBDs,orskulkingby NZ’s townshave aglutof nondescript, At theotherendof thehotel scaleare five- lonelyplanet.com anything from$120to$400 a double. tiful nature-surrounded topay plots.Expect wind anderect luxuriouscottages onbeau- current trend istothrowrusticitythe lonelyplanet.com fishing in the world. Southland alsohave someof thebestsalmon (the WestCoast). Therivers of and Otago BrunnerandtheArnold Riverand Lake theMatauramost notably River (Southland) and lakes alsofare wellonthetroutindex, Turangi istroutcentral.SouthIsland rivers Taupoespecially aroundLake –thetownof lakes andrivers are famousfortroutfishing, tional fisheries. ThecentralNorthIsland’s has becomeoneof theworld’sgreat recrea- perch andchar (amongst other species),NZ Thanks totheintroductionof trout,salmon, Fishing Masterton. and Auckland,Hamilton,Queenstown, Hastings Plains, andthere are alsoballoontripsfrom Southern AlpsandcontrastingCanterbury ( p558 viewsof) grantsyouspectacular the in ahot-airballoon.Afloatabove Methven Fiordland (fromTe Anau; p646 ). ( p571 ), the WestCoastglaciers ( p510 Park ( ) and p306 ), MtTaranaki ( Whakaari Island; p245 p341 ), MtCook ), TongariroNational Islands ( p155 of), theBay Plenty(especially photo-worthy tripstake placeover of theBay within nationalparks.Someof themost viewedterrain deep andseldom mountains country’s contrastinglandscapes,soaring friendly)waytoabsorb the environmentally aerodromes. It’sagreat (butnotparticularly the locals)allover NZ,operatingfromlocal by trips(called‘flightseeing’ on sightseeing Small planesand helicopters circletheskies Aerial Sightseeing smorgasbord. for more infoonNZ’soutdoor activity chapter theActive ( NewZealand See p79 ) ACTIVITIES out www.nzfla ts.co.nz. a longer you’re stay thinkingabout, check try www.newzealand-apartments.co.nz. Ifit’s apartments .co.nz; forswankyself-contained iswww.holidayhomesand holidayhouses A goodwebsite tohelpyoufindbaches For more upmarket the holidayhouses, A farmore approach sedate istojump DIRECTORY ••Activities DIRECTORY itself ‘Home totheNZGolfOpen’. Theonly itself in ArrowtownproclaimsThe Hillscourse Methven; andMillbrook, nearQueenstown. Terrace countrynear Downs,inthehigh near Taupo; Clearwater, outside Christchurch; courses. best the pastandisregarded asoneof thecountry’s Wellington, hasmadeitintosuch rankingsin of Islands(ranked 63rd).Paraparaumu, near (ranked Bay 41st)andKauri intheBay Cliffs Kidnappers inHawkestwo NZcourses: Cape top 100courses, and greens. Inits2007rankingsof theworld’s there are somemagnificentlysituated fairways other country,andamongover 400courses NZ hasmore thanany golf courses percapita Golf (www.nzpfga.com) ProfessionalFishingZealand GuidesAssociation interested the inguidedfishing trips,see covering recreational fishing inNZ.Ifyou’re ered atwww.fishing.net.nz, a huge website ( p705 Otherfishybusiness iscov-) fordetails. mation centres offices oroneof theDOC Consultvisitorinfor-day, monthorseason. cover particularregions andare validfora inland waters. Soldatsportshops, permits als such ascane or feathers. especially ifthey’re madewithnaturalmateri- have tobetreated byNZquarantineofficials, may If youbringyourownrodsandtackle Rotorua andatsportsstores inlarger towns. is goodforsalmon and trout. Valley,Kurow, intheWaitaki NorthOtago, Stewartcook yourownbluecodoff Island; Peninsula offers and good surfcasting.Catch andbluecod.Kaikourafish, ling,barracouta snapper, hake, hapuku,trumpeter, butter- around theMarlborough Sound,are great for are big-timebig-game fishing areas. and Tuhua(Mayor of Island)intheBay Plenty in Northland),WhitiangatheCoromandel Whangaroa, TutukakanearWhangarei (all are of goodforsurfcasting.TheBay Islands, (Northland) andtheHauraki Gulfbeaches rakihi, mokiandkahawai.NinetyMileBeach nard, flounder,mackerel, hapuku(groper),ta- mao mao,porae,John Dory,snapper,gur- and boatfishingcanlandgrey mullet,trevally, Other popularcourses includeWairakei A fishing permit is required tofish in The SouthIsland’scolderwaters, especially surfcasting In thewarmNorthIslandseas, Hire fishing gear intownslike Taupo and website. Golf Magazine gave gongsto 693 New
DIRECTORY DIRECTORY though café-barthough hybridspush theenvelope around5pm, open asearly7am andclose sometimes Cafés hours theweek. throughout restaurant stripsinlarge cities keep longer later themain onFridayandSaturday nights; fooduntil11pmor least 9pmbutoften serve Note, Paper Plus)often open later. desksinnewsagencies (TakeSaturday; postal with mainbranches alsoopen9.30amto1pm are open8.30amto5pmMondayFriday, also openonSaturdaymornings).Post offices 4.30pm MondaytoFriday(somecitybranches later than close most shops. stores) andsuperettes (smallsupermarkets) until 9pmorlater incities.Dairies(corner ally openfrom8amuntilatleast7pm,often big townsandcities.Supermarkets are usu- Sundaytradingisthenorminmost nights; the larger citiesonThursday and/orFriday shopping(until9pm)happensin Late-night and either12.30pmor5pmonSaturday. at5.30pmMondaytoFriday, at 9amandclose Most shopsand opentheirdoorsbusinesses BUSINESS HOURS details. sails. your Nelson are goodplacestoget somewindin Wakatipu) andthecitiesof Auckland and the north),southernlakes (Te Anauand on deckorplayamore hands-on role. operators whoallowyoutojustlazearound theretions. Otherwise, are plentyof sailing and askifyoucanhelpcrew inlocalcompeti- clubs try visitingthecountry’svarioussailing ‘City of Sails’.Ifyou’re keen onyacht racing, also agoodreason whyAucklandiscalledthe ing someof theworld’sbestmariners. There’s NZhasahabitof produc- Surrounded bysea, Sailing f.org.nz. .nzgol green fees are amore manageable $90. $300 to$400fortheprivilege; Paraparaumu’s more Kidnappers you’llpayahefty –atCape vate resorts cancharge amount asubstantial usually ranges pri- from$30to$50,though lionaire owneristhe only member! catch isthatyoucan’tplaythere –themil- 694 The Bay ofThe Bay Islands(andWhangaroato For more informationcheck outwww The average green fee foran18-holecourse Restaurants typicallytake ordersRestaurants untilat normallyopenfrom9.30amtoBanks Go towww.yachtingnz.org.nz formore IETR • Bsns or ••BusinessHours DIRECTORY world-class, withgoods like formula and are valuedabove Hostels allelse. focussing on grown-up getaways where peaceandquiet promote as themselves of businesses these are notusuallyamenable tofamilies–many B&Bs places have child-minding services. usually able tosupplythemandtheplushest range accommodation,buttop-endhotels are aren’t alwayseasytofindatbudget andmid- trampolines. Cots,highchairs andbabybaths occasionally fenced swimmingpoolsand grounds, gamesandvideoequipment, Many motels andholidayparkshave play- Practicalities bunch! friendly or citycouncil,askalocal–Kiwisare a check withthelocalvisitorinformationcentre ababyorchangego tonurse anappy(diaper); where mothers (andsometimesfathers) can towns have centrallylocated publicrooms Travel with Children LonelyPlanet’s For helpfulgeneral tips,see CHILDREN open onChristmasDay from Thursday to Saturday. openuntillate,at noonandstay particularly Pubs andbars generally pouringdrinks start from noonto2pmand6pm8pm. food Pubsusuallyserve well intothenight. ad transport. and four years old) usually get free admission under 12to 18years; toddlers (under the definitionof ‘child’ canvaryfrom off theadultrate. Donote, that however, transport, withdiscountsasmuch as50% attraction entryfees andair,bustrain often available foraccommodation,tours, Pages sitters’ and‘child care centres’ inthe portions. child-sized upmarket eateries) canhandletheideaof cafés andrestaurants (withtheexceptionof kids’mealsandmost menu. Pubsoften serve provided fromtheirown andkidscanchoose rants inNZ,where toddlers’ highchairs are hostels (includingYHA hostels) that do. come kidseither,butthere are plentyof other the youngbackpacker demographicdon’twel- NZ’s medical services andfacilities are NZ’s medicalservices childcare,For specialised lookunder‘baby- Don’t countonmanyattractionsbeing There are plentyof so-calledfamilyrestau- Child concessions(andfamilyrates) are directory the orcontact local council. . Allcitiesandmostmajor
or Good Friday. lonelyplanet.com Yellow seat willbe seat properly fitted. foryourchild, sizeof andthatthe right seat cansupplythe that thecompanyyouchoose –double-checkwith theconceptof babyseats centres. Many hire-car companiesstruggle nappieswidelyavailabledisposable inurban lonelyplanet.com fied they’re forpersonal andthat you’llbe use ticles infree of dutyprovided customs issatis- Service the bring intoNZ,see For thelow-downwhatyoucanandcan’t rainfall averages around 1300mm annually. isn’t asformidable astheAlps.NorthIsland pronounced asinthesouth–barrier here eastern slopes,buttherainshadow isn’tas attractalotmore volcanoes rainthan the high or föhnwindcanbehot and fierce. Plains;insummerthiskatabatic Canterbury astheyblowdownhillandcrossthe and speed ture, thewindscontinueeast,gatheringheat (about 330mm).After dumpingtheirmois- nually!), andadryclimate ontheeastern side (around7500mmofthe mountains rainan- creating awetclimate onthewestern sideof moisture-ladenas abarrierforthese easterlies, the windshowlingthrough Cook Strait. the Tasman andisconsistently slappedby Sea blasted) by cool,dampwindsblowinginfrom which meansitgets ‘freshened’ (somesay NZ sits smack-bang intheRoaringForties, CLIMATE CHARTS various facets of kiddy-culture. .kidsfriendlynz.com hasextensive linksto or fromnewsagents for$7.50.Finally,www Kids NewZealand Directory, The folksbehindthiswebsite producethe andNelsonindetail. Dunedin, Queenstown ing Auckland,Wellington,Christchurch, for familiesiswww.kidspot.co.nz, cover- tor informationcentres. Anotherhandysite few NorthIslandcentres. Ask atlocalvisi- and restaurants inmostSouthIslandanda co.nz), child-friendly which details activities ties; oneexampleis lets geared andactivi- towardskids’sights Some regions producefree informationbook- Sights &Activities CUSTOMS When entering NZyoucanbring mostar- On theSouthIsland,SouthernAlpsact See See p19 instruction. forfurtherseasonal On theNorthIsland,western sidesof
(www.customs.govt.nz) DIRECTORY ••ClimateCharts DIRECTORY Kidz Go! website. New Zealand Customs Customs New Zealand available online (www.kidzgo. -10 -10 -10 -10 -10 10 10 10 10 10 C% °C % °C % °C % °C % °C 30 30 30 30 30 20 20 20 20 20 0 0 0 0 0 WELLINGTON QUEENSTOWN DUNEDIN CHRISTCHURCH AUCKLAND 14 32 50 14 32 50 14 32 50 14 32 50 14 32 50 86 86 86 86 86 68 68 68 68 68 °F °F °F °F °F JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND Temp/ Temp/ Temp/ Temp/ Temp/ Humidity Humidity Humidity Humidity Humidity 2m (4ft) 6m (20ft) in in in in in 128m (420ft) 2 4 6 8 2 4 6 8 2 4 6 8 2 4 6 8 2 4 6 8 0 0 0 0 0 355m (116ft) 34m (112ft) 100 100 100 100 100 25 25 25 25 0 0 0 0 0 75 50 75 75 50 75 50 75 50 50 25 JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Average Average Average Average Average
695 0 50 100 150 200 0 50 100 150 200 0 50 100 150 200 0 50 100 150 200 0 50 100 150 200 mm mm mm mm mm DIRECTORY DIRECTORY fr information. for areas; especially inhigh-altitude see p79 NZ’s unpredictable, ever-changing climate, carry yourpassport withyou,just in case. out of inthe boot (trunk)of sight thecar–but jewels simplymustbeleftbehind, packthem and thecarparksattrailheads.Ifcrown places totempt fate are tourist parking areas cles, nomatter where it’sparked; theworst easy marks.Avoid leaving valuables in vehi- lem aroundNZ,andtravellers are viewedas standards. city try, butit’svery safe bymostinternational is considered of the‘crimecapital’ thecoun- lent crimeisnotcommoninNZ.Auckland vio- byheadline-hungrybroadsheets, detail oftenThough reported inloudandsalacious DANGERS &ANNOYANCES a permitand safety testing. and firearms are eitherprohibited orrequire southeast Asia orSouthAmerica. Weapons greater scrutinyifyou’ve arrived viaAfrica, and foodof anykind.You’llalsocomeunder products (includinganythingmadeof wood), cles. Youmustdeclare anyplantoranimal being allowedin;dittogolfclubsandbicy- checked tobecleanedbefore andmayneed Tramping gear such asbootsandtents willbe that mayharmNZ’sagriculturalindustry. are about keeping serious outanydiseases is anothercustomsbuzzword–authorities drugs, sodeclare allmedicines.Bio-security dutiable goodsuptothevalue of $700. cigarettes (or50cigars or250gof tobacco)and of spiritsorliqueur,4.5Lof 200 wineorbeer, a perperson duty-free allowanceof 1125mL themwithyouwhenleave.taking There’s 696 Customs officers are obviouslyfussy about Theft, primarilyfromcars, isa Don’t underestimate thedangers by posed sandflies atall.Honestly. Hadthere been,wewould have settheOrcsonthem. ADLE SANDFLIES pest compared withthegloryoftheirhabitat. cope, andtobaccorepels themtoo,butIwouldhopethat travellers find themaninsignificant met, atleastduringthesummer,bycrowds ofthelittlebuggers. There are patent that unctions Sound,whereat thegloriousMilford visitors(after themostbeautifuldrive intheworld)are tourist industry,Ihesitate secret to mention thewell-kept of sandflies. Ifirstmetthemenmasse As includingtheNew Zealand anunpaidbutenthusiasticproselytiser onbehalfofallthingsKiwi, IETR • Dnes&Anyne ••Dangers&Annoyances DIRECTORY Oddly, when actually filmingscenesfor Oddly, whenactually Sir IanMcKellenisa UK-based actorwho spentseveral yearsin NZfilmingandhasbecome Sir IanMcKellen major prob- something ofanunofficialambassador forNZtourism. Lord oftheRings, 12 years andover andprovides red-hot dis- The cardisissuedtofull-timestudentsaged (ISIC). International StudentIdentityCard body behind theinternationally recognised specialist studenttravel organisations andthe (ISTC; www.istc.org) The in areas.coastal below repellent yourself withinsect ). Lather flies are theboxed aroyalp.i.t.a. (see text, scenery may be. eyes ontheroadnomatter howphotogenic the andkeep your around thecountryattopspeed a reasonable itineraryinstead of careening yourself sheep. Set vans andtraffic-ignorant locals,wide-corneringcamper-by speeding surfing or diving. notice of localwarningswhenswimming, can quicklydragswimmers Take outtosea. and undertowsthatplaguesomebeaches and arehazards intheocean,however, therips humans dooccasionallyoccur. Much greater rarely on attacks nibbleonhumans;thatsaid, are wellfed bytheabundantmarinelife and fish etc).Sharks hangoutinNZwaters, but neighbouring Australia(spiders, snakes, jelly- proliferation of venomous creatures foundin professionals. Allthree cardsare available (ITIC),available toteachingIdentity Card ISTC brainchild istheInternational Teacher equivalent benefitstotheISIC.Asimilar 26 whoare notfull-timestudents,andgives available 12and tofolksbetween (IYTC), duces theInternational YouthTravel Card admission toattractions.TheISTC also pro- counts onaccommodation,transportand DSON CARDS DISCOUNT In theannoyancescategory, NZ’ssand- The islands’roadsare often madehazardous sparedNZ hasthankfullybeen fromthe International Student Travel Confederation StudentTravel International Idon’trecall beingbothered by isan international collective of lonelyplanet.com
44 Hill St,Thorndon, 44 Hill Wellington) .co.nz; L7,CitigroupBldg,23CustomsStE, Auckland) lington.diplo.de; 90-92HobsonSt,Thorndon, Wellington) tralia.org.nz; 72-76HobsonSt,Thorndon, Wellington) 31 Pipitea St,Thorndon, Wellington) recognised inNZbutthatmanyplacesstill respective countriesare notalways‘officially’ overseas willfindthatthecardsissuedbytheir (www.statravel.co.nz) from studenttravel companieslike lonelyplanet.com for onward travel is outof the question. assist with getting anewpassport, butaloan and documentsstolen, yourembassymay have insurance. Ifyouhave allyour money unlikely –theembassywould expectyouto home urgently, afree ticket isexceedingly to getexhausted. Forexample,ifyouneed butonlyifotherchannelsassistance have been tions are legalinyour own country. ifsuchcommitting acrimelocally,even ac- not besympatheticifyouendupin jailafter you’re boundbyNZlaws–yourembassywill WhileinNZ the fixyou’re inisself-induced. sies won’tbemuch helpinemergencies if get speaking,embas- intotrouble. Generally embassy canandcan’tdotohelpyouif toknowwhatyournational It’s important USA UK Netherlands Japan Ireland Germany France Fiji Canada Australia include: commissions Auckland. Embassies, consulates andhigh to NZare inWellington,withafew in Most principal diplomaticrepresentations EMBASSIES &CONSULATES sions where applicable. acknowledge such cardsandgrantconces- .usembassy.gov; 29 Fitzherbert Tce,Thorndon, .usembassy.gov; 29Fitzherbert Wellington) Wellington) Centre, 100Willis .go.jp; L18&L19,TheMajestic St, Featherston &BallanceSts, Wellington) .netherlandsembassy.co.nz; L10, InvestmentHouse,cnr -nz.org; 12th fl, 34-42 Manners St, -nz.org; 12thfl,34-42Manners Wellington) -maeci.gc.ca/newzealand; L11,125TheTerrace, Wellington) (Map (Map pp402-3 ; Senior and disabled travellers anddisabled wholiveSenior In genuine emergencies get youmight some Mp pp402-3; (Map (Map (Map pp402-3 ; (Map (Map p406 ; (Map (Map p406 ; (Map (Map pp104-5 ; (Map (Map pp402-3 ; (Map (Map pp402-3 ; (Map (Map pp402-3 ; (Map (Map pp402-3 ; % % % % % DIRECTORY ••Embassies&Consulates DIRECTORY and cost NZ$20 each. 04-924 2888; www.britain.org.nz; www.britain.org.nz; 2888; 04-924 04-473 1540;www.nz.emb-japan 04-473 5401; www.fiji.org.nz; 5401; 04-473 % 04-384 2555;www.ambafrance % 04-462 6000;http://wellington % % 09-977 2252;www.ireland 04-473 9577;www.dfait % 04-473 6411;www.aus 04-473 6063;www.wel 04-471 6390;www STA Travel
with participating wineries aroundNapierandHastings. wineries with participating .co.nz) Indulgentwine andfoodcelebrationinFebruary, the best of Kiwi food and drink foodanddrink the bestofKiwi in April. wineandfoodfestival.com) Aucklandswillsitself silly with aaig garments. amazing featuring inSeptember Wellingtonevent way) two-week Bizarre (inthebestpossible .worldofwearableart.com) rgoa centres. regional withvenuesacrossAuckland, Wellingtonandvarious May laugh-fest(www.comedyfestival.co.nz) in Three-week road forscreenings inregional townsfromJuly to October. offlickshitsthe aselection land, DunedinandChristchurch, edff.co.nz) separatefilmfestivals inWellington,Auck- After aplenty. acts international ton. Theatre, dance,music andvisualarts; in February/March yearinWelling- even-numbered every festival.nzpost.co.nz) held Month-longbiennialspectacular June mainlyaroundAuckland and Northland. educationandtree planting;in Remembrance, riki.htm) ough foradayofindulgence in November. Wellingtonians headtoMartinbor- .co.nz) Wine-willing music andsong (allthegoodthings) insunnyGisborneon Rhythm &Vines Rhythm Music Festivals Toast Martinborough Wine&FoodFestivalAuckland Wildfoods Festival aplenty.Held tainment. Over-indulgence in February. finefood andenter- wineries, from over50Marlborough Features(www.wine-marlborough-festival.co.nz) wine Marlborough Wine Festival Bay Hawkes Harvest Food &WineFestivals AwardShow World ofWearableArt Film Festivals International New Zealand Matariki ComedyFestival International New Zealand Festival Arts International New Zealand Arts &CulturalFestivals book. Ahandful of highlights: destinationchaptersvided throughout inthis and www.eventfinder.co.nz. Events Calendar. alsowww.nzlive.com See website – the thecountry?Checkout staged throughout ous foodandwine,sportingorartsfestivals Want toplanyourtravels aroundthevari- FESTIVALS &EVENTS challenging foodfest in March. comfort-zone- worms, hare testiclesorcrabsatHokitika’s Details ofDetails NZfestivals are andevents pro- Tourism NewZealand Tourism (Maori NewYear; (Maori www.taitokerau.co.nz/mata
click on Sights &Activities,then click onSights (www.rhythmandvines.co.nz) Wine, (www.wildfoods.co.nz) Eatsome (www.harvesthawkesbay (www.toastmartinborough (www.newzealand.com/travel)
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DIRECTORY DIRECTORY shops andpubbistros;tocafésdrowned in fromfry-’em-upfish-and-chipeverything Accommodation is booked out Accommodation isbooked for miles! rugbyrumble. populations)inaSeptember single-digit prize bulls in Christchurch bullsinChristchurch prize in November. some show.co.nz) Haveaflutteronthenagsorinspect mining trailsinCentralOtago March. during cyclingandrunningalongoldgold 375km ofkayaking, on www.menus.co.nz willget your mouth back onNZrestaurants. Perusing themenus .dineout.co.nz isworthalook fordiners’ feed- to propyourelbows onit.Thewebsite www ments where thelinenissocrisp you’re afraid drinks;andfine-diningestablish- late-night and taurant-bars withfullàlacarte service faux-European, grungyorretro stylings;res- in itsdefinitionasMediterranean or Asian. often referred toasPacific Rim,aterm asbroad Pacific culinaryinnovation. Theendresult is meats, withadashof Asian, Europeanandpan- and otherisland-harvested lipped mussels venison, such aslamb,beef, staples green- hip cafésare adeptatthrowingtogether trad nowadays thecountry’sstylish restaurants and a slavish reflection of Anglo-Saxonstodge. But strict adherence tothe The NZfoodiescenewasoncegoverned by FOOD &ShowWeek Cup New Zealand Wooden Cup Event Goldrush Multisport BoatShow International Auckland teams crackheadsinWellington in February. www.sevens.co.nz) rugby Theworld’stopseven-a-side Sevens International NewZealand Sporting Events National JazzFestival WOMAD swimming! and visualarts Contemporary livemusic,performance, safe mer festival inFebruary atTapapakanga Park. Regional Splore inAuckland international rockextravaganza January. Big DayOut songwriters. New Year’s bandsand Eve.TopDJs,hip-hopacts, singer- 698 with sailsandchurnsoutboardmotors in March. internationalboatshow.com) Auckland harbourblooms southern hemisphere. Tauranga hoststhelongest-runningjazzfest inthe Brooklands BowlinNewPlymouth in March. atthe performances .co.nz) Localandinternationalarts Eateries themselves areEateries represented by IETR • Fo ••Food DIRECTORY (www.splore.net) Cutting-edge outdoorsum- (www.splore.net) Cutting-edge (World of Music Arts &Dance;www.womad Arts (WorldofMusic (www.bigdayout.com) Much moshingatthis (www.bigdayout.com)Much St Bathans vs Becks (Otago townswith St BathansvsBecks(Otago (www.jazz.org.nz) EveryEaster (www.jazz.org.nz) Edmond’s CookeryBook, (www.goldrush.co.nz) (www.nzcupand (www.auckland (NZI Sevens; (NZI Sevens;
pubs andbars butmanyestablishments $20. Midrange restaurants cancharge asmuch bistromeals,usuallyunder standard serve classy restaurant-style fare, butmostpubs pubs label themselves ‘gastropubs’,offering in casualsurroundsforunder$20.Somecity are often thebestvalue,withbang-upmeals most from restaurants tocafésquickeats.Cafés to cheapest from expensive, withcitylistingsordered bytype, order, budget in are decent drops on tap. pubs inthemiddleof nowhere tohave some stream themostredneck –expecteven of microbrewed beers have alsobecomemain- where youcan’tfindadecentespresso. NZ be hard-pressed tofindaNZtownof anysize and veg-friendly optionsaround the country. .nz) The requirements,dietary such ascoeliac-sufferers. of themcatering tovegans withother and those cated vegetarian cafésorrestaurants, anumber usually have atleastone(often dedi- several) be thenorm.Urbancentres andtouristtowns orroasted salad vegetable to mainsthatused become quite creative, aworldapartfromthe towns witharesident foodiebourgeoisie –have Wellington. or homophobia exist. doesn’t that butthat’snot to say homosexuality, Kiwis are fairlyrelaxed andacceptingabout persons speaking consenting is16.Generally ans; thelegalminimum age between forsex oflaws protecting therights gaysandlesbi- both islands.NZhasrelatively progressive with myriadsupportorganisations across the maincitiesof AucklandandWellington, communities arehomosexual prominent in high-profile asinneighbouring Australiabut The G&L tourism industryinNZisn’tas GAY &LESBIANTRAVELLERS ter ( p62 ). expected. not puffers. Tipping inrestaurants andcafésis have upoutdoorareas set (often heated) for restaurants. top-end mainspricedfrom$35to$45attrendyto see as $30foramainmeal,butdon’tbesurprised watering intimeforyourvisittoAuckland For more theFood&Drinkchap- info,see Smoking isbannedinallrestaurants, recommendationsEating inthisbook On thecontemporary coffee front,you’ll Vegetarian food–particularlyincitiesand website hasarestaurant guidecovering veg New Zealand Vegetarian Society Vegetarian New Zealand lonelyplanet.com (www.vegsoc.org express March/April www.gaynz.net.nz andwww.lesbian.net.nz. websites includewww.gaynz.com, while queer point, withlinkstovarioussites. Otherworth- (www.gaytourismnewzealand.com) and lesbiantravellers. lonelyplanet.com South Canterbury Taranaki Otago Nelson Northland Auckland Wellington Southland tradition of the‘long weekend’ continues. on thepreceding Monday–thegreat Kiwi TuesdayandThursday,between they’re held thefollowingMonday;iftheyfall ally observed FridayandSunday,they’refall between usu- provincial holidays holidaysvary–whenthese anniversary-day holiday.Thedates of these In addition,each NZprovince hasitsown Day Boxing Day Christmas Labour Day Queen’s Birthday Anzac Day Easter Day Waitangi New Year NZ’s mainpublic holidays: Public Holidays HOLIDAYS Wellington Gay &Lesbian ( p418 ). ( p128 Hamilton), Gay&Lesbian (p222)and (www.gayskiweeknz.com) stages theannual Queenstown Wellington andChristchurch inJune,while .org.nz) February inAuckland. huge reviews andlistingsontheNZ gay scene. twomonthsevery forthelatest happenings, Wednesday and www.gayqueenstown.com. .co.nz. visitors Queenstown should check out www.gaystay For accommodationlistingssee There are loadsof websites dedicated togay For more info, see Gay & Lesbian Auckland For more Gay&Lesbian info,see forapartyistheThe biggest excuse Check outnationwidemagazineslike Provincial anniversary holidaysinclude: isaG&Lfilmfestival staged inAuckland, 23March Good Friday &EasterMonday; GoodFriday HERO Festival 1February
31March (www.gayexpress.co.nz; $3) 29January 1&2January 25April 17January 29January 4thMondayinOctober 26December 6February 25December 1stMondayinJune DIRECTORY ••Holidays DIRECTORY 25September Out!
(www.hero.org.nz) in August/September. (www.out.co.nz; $6)
22 January Gay Tourism NewZealand Tourism Gay Out Takes is a good starting isagoodstarting every secondevery , held every , heldevery Gay Ski Week Ski Gay
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scheme thatprovides accidentinsurancefor regardless of fault. NZ residents andvisitors tothecountry, .co.nz) Accident Compensation Corporation exemplary damages). Instead, thecountry’s you cannotsueforpersonal injury (otherthan evacuations by air. covers ambulances andemergency medical your problem ismade. Checkthatthepolicy country where of animmediate assessment (reverse charges) toacentre inyourhome Somepoliciesaskyoutocallback mentation. to claimlater make sure youkeep alldocu- pay onthespotandclaimlater. Ifyouhave directlyor hospitals ratherthanyouhaving to coversthe policyyouchoose you fully. things (adistinctpossibilityinNZ),make sure bushwalking. Ifyouplanondoinganyof these water rafting,motorcycling,skiingandeven bungyjumping,white- diving, parasailing, nated ‘dangerous activities’such asscuba the fineprintand shop around. are plentyof from–compare policiestochoose have medicalcosts,like high theUSA.There onesarethe higher chiefly forcountriesthat options; medical-expense lower andhigher camerapilfered.digital Mostpoliciesoffer than anaccidentorhaving yourduty-free nothing willruinyourholidaymore quickly theft, lossandmedicalproblems isessential; A watertight travel insurance policycovering INSURANCE (www.minedu.govt.nz) the For exactdates see toearlyOctober.July, andmid-September frommid-tolate April,earlytomid- year: shorter school-holiday periodsduringthe queues attouristattractions.There are three modation booked out,andlong,grumpy most likely findtransportandaccom- summer school vacation.It’sthetimeyou’ll December tolate January, ispartof the frommid- The Christmasholidayseason, School Holidays Canterbury Westland Chatham Islands Marlborough Bay Hawkes Some policiesspecificallyexcludedesig- It’s worthmentioningthatunderNZ law, You mayprefer apolicythatpaysdoctors administers anaccidentcompensation 1December 16December 1November 1November 30November website. Ministry ofEducation Ministry
(ACC; www.acc 699
DIRECTORY DIRECTORY surance. Forcarinsuranceinformation or customer to access the internet at these or customer toaccessthe internet at these ing rooms.Usually youhave tobeaguest gardenstohostel din- lobbies topubbeer hotspots around thecountry,fromhotel Increasingly, you’llbeable tofindwi-fi Providers Wireless Access&InternetService usually 10or 15 minutes. There’s often aminimumperiod of access, traveller numbers generate dirt-cheap prices. can befoundincitieswhere competitionand from $3to$8perhour–thelowestrates internet café first. for travellers tocheck their email–headforan areand these provided forresearch not needs, but there canbealimited numberof terminals Many publiclibrarieshave internet accesstoo, with internet accesssometimesfree forguests. in thecornerof a video store. net cafécouldturnouttobeasingleterminal towns,where aso-calledinter-out-of-the-way Facilities are alotmore haphazard insmall, your visitanytimeotherthan4pmto6pm! the machines intheafter-school hours –time terminals.speed Obnoxious teens often swamp tourist areas are usuallybrimmingwithhigh- Internet cafésinthebigger urbancentres or Internet Cafés etc). www.gmail.com ices (www.yahoo.com, www.hotmail.com, address withoneof themanyfree emailserv- have upatravelling one,it’sworthsetting most remote locales.Ifyoudon’talready onlineinNZiseasyallbutthe Getting INTERNET ACCESS lyplanet.com/bookings/insurance.do. 44 countriesisavailable onlineatwww.lone p718. see in yourhomecountryor ongoing illness. for such thingsaslossof incomeortreatment travel cover insurancepolicy,asitdoesn’t you out thenecessityforyourowncomprehensive a cheer. notcancel thisscheme However does gation ‘industries’inothercountriesandraise ment, others pointtothehugely expensive liti- 700 See also See p722 fornotes onmedicalin- While somepeoplecryfoulof thisarrange- Internet accessatcafésranges anywhere Most hostels tohookyouup, make aneffort For a list of useful NZ websites, see For alistof NZwebsites, see useful p21 . Worldwide cover fortravellers fromover IETR • Itre ces ••InternetAccess DIRECTORY but neitherare universal; localelectronics British BT431A andRJ-11telephone plugs, If you’re in,NZuses planningonplugging Telecom Xtra Slingshot Earthlight Clear.Net ISPs: Major regions. dial-up areas tomajor citiesorparticular are plentyof somelimittheir options,though provider (ISP),there a localinternet service book computer andwanttoget connected to website for hotspot listings. the less hotspotusingyourcredit card.See number fromtheloginpage andanywire- Alternatively, aprepaid youcanpurchase prepaid cardfromparticipatinghotspots. aTelecomvice, youcanpurchase wireless the country.Ifyouhave awi-fi-enabled de- .co.nz) company is there’s a charge. to get online. Sometimesit’sfree, sometimes wink andasecret handshake toenable you locations –you’llbeissued withacode, vs status. visa recorded againstyouwhich your mayaffect and thefineminimal, aconvictionwillstillbe at them.Even iftheamount of drugsissmall other illicitdrugs willhave thebookthrown carryingthisor illegal, andanyonecaught tric puha’or‘dac’)is widely indulged inbut Green’,Marijuana ‘elec- (aka ‘NewZealand LEGAL MATTERS once youget to NZ. leave homeorbuy alocalPC-cardmodem buy areputable ‘global’ modembefore you may notworkinNZ.Thesafest optionisto into the wall. you’ll probably findthatphonesare hardwired expensive callcharges. Inmostcheaper places tels have wallsockets, butyou’llbehitwith accommodations andnearlyalltop-endho- nards of yourmachine. Alotof midrange enable youtopluginwithoutfryingthein- a plugadaptor–universal AC adaptorwill shops shouldbeable tohelp.You’llalsoneed products) travellers to NZ. a pageonitswebsitedetailingprepaid internetaccessfor The country’smaintelecommunications If you’ve yourpalmtopornote- brought Keep inmindthat yourPC-cardmodem , which haswireless hotspotsaround ( ( ( % % % ( % 0508 888800;www.clear.net.nz) 0800 892000;www.slingshot.co.nz) Telecom NewZealand 03-479 0303; www.earthlight.co.nz) Has 03-479 0303;www.earthlight.co.nz) 0800 003040;www.xtra.co.nz/ lonelyplanet.com
(www.telecom including street, countryandholidaymaps, town, regional, maps, islandandhighway those those under 20. is 0.08%fordrivers over 20,and0.03%for vere penalties. Thelegalbloodalcohol limit NZ despite widespread campaignsandse- offence andremains asignificantproblemin more info,see p716 . Drink-drivingisaserious lonelyplanet.com transfer atpointof ( sale Eftpos), aconvenient across both islands. ATMs everywhere, but they’re widespread access tooverseas accounts. Youwon’tfind accept cardsfromotherbanksand provide Westpac andASB, have 24-hourATMs that ANZ, of cluding theBank NewZealand, Branches of thecountry’smajor banks,in- ATMs &Eftpos front cover for alistof exchange rates. theQuickReference ontheinside See section less of abargain destinationthanitoncewas. ticularly againsttheUSdollar),makingNZ against othercurrencies inrecent years (par- The NZ dollar hasgainedconsiderable ground MONEY towns. and to pinpointexactaddresses inNZcities .co.nz) visitor informationcentre for topo maps. or office bookshops, ortrythenearest DOC graphical trampers’ maps.Scanthelarger national andforest parkmaps,andtopo- .nz) lished byHema, KiwiMaps and Wises. information centres andbookshops, are pub- availableable countrywideatlases, fromvisitor detailed of amembership card.TheAAalsoproducesa freeobtain mapsanddiscountsonpresentation overseasaffiliated automobileassociationscan available members fromtheirlocaloffices; of to topographic masterpieces. street out NZ–fromdetailed mapsandatlases Top-notch maps are widelyavailable through- MAPS begins. sult alawyerbefore anyformalquestioning Always carryyourlicencewhendriving;for Online, logonto Land InformationNewZealand The AA( p689 ) producesexcellentcity, Many electronicfunds use NZbusinesses If youare arrested tocon- it’syour right publishes several exhaustive mapseries, publishesseveral orthe New Zealand RoadAtlas Yellow Maps DIRECTORY ••Maps DIRECTORY AA SmartMap
(maps.yellowpages.co.nz)
(www.linz.govt
. Otherreli- (www.aamaps depending onyourhome bank;askbefore your cardataforeign bank orATM vary vided youknow your PIN.Fees forusing Plus andEurocard)shouldwork,pro- Visa national banking network (Cirrus,Maestro, machines. Anycardconnected totheinter- bank accountusingATMs, banksorEftpos can drawmoneydirectly fromyourhome safer optionisadebitcardwithwhich you and goinghometoasteaming pileof debt.A ger withcredit cardsismaxingoutyour limit accepted. widely such asDiners ClubandAmexare notas tions incurimmediate interest. Charge cards on thecard,butbeaware thatsuch transac- advances atbanksandfromATMs, depending forover-the-countercan alsobeused cash if youwanttohiremuch essential acar. They bed toabungyjump.Credit cardsare pretty widely accepted fromahostel foreverything card. debit flexible optionistocarrybotha credit anda elling moneyisinsideaplasticcard!Themost Perhaps thesafest placetokeep yourNZtrav- Credit &DebitCards around toget the best deal. rive inthecountryandbeprepared toshop account, doyourhomeworkbefore youar- visitors. toopenan Ifyouthinkyou’llneed offered toshort-term vague ontheservices websites areemployment. Bank alsorather plication isaccompaniedbysomeproof of NZ foratleastsixmonths, orunless theap- with themunlessthey’re in planningtostay banks won’tallowvisitors toopenanaccount thatmany Othersourcessay is processed. and thenwaitingafew dayswhileyourrequest addresspostal (oryourpermanentaddress) ing afew piecesof ID,providing atemporary it’sassimpleflash- NZ. Somesourcessay for nonresidents toopena bank accountin We’ve heardmixed reports onhoweasyitis Bank Accounts to it. use your personal identificationnumber(PIN) banks. Justlike anATM, toknow youneed inplaces whereeven it’salongwaybetween Eftpos isavailable practicallyeverywhere, purchases, andoften withdrawcash aswell. or (credit ordebit)topaydirectly forservices yourbankcard that allowsyoutouse service Apart fromlosingthem,theobvious dan- Credit MasterCard cards (Visa, etc)are
701 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY bill is the norm. 5%and 10% of –between thesatisfaction the tipyouleave dependsentirely onyour and toreward acceptable totally goodservice charge). it’s Thatsaid, an additionalservice topay(noteyou need thatsometimes there’s atthebottomoftotal arestaurant bill isall donotdependontipsforincome–the staff Tipping iscompletely optionalinNZ,and Tipping refund available whenyou leave NZ. the priceisGST-exclusive. There’s noGST look outforanysmallprintannouncingthat ices. PricesinthisbookincludeGST, but onalldomesticgoodsandserv- 12.5% tax The TaxGoods andServices (GST) isaflat Taxes &Refunds (oftenweek until 9pm). beyond normalbusinesshours duringthe airports, andconveniently tend open tostay found inallmajor touristareas, citiesand in themajor cities. Moneychangers canbe such asTravelex (formerlyThomasCook) moneychangers NZoratlicensed throughout cheques isusuallynoproblem atbanks Changing foreign currency ortravellers Moneychangers to filloutaBorder Report. Cash clared onarrivalordeparture –you’llneed NZ$10,000 (inanycurrency) mustbede- equal toorinexcessof theequivalent of notprohibited,Though cash amounts importing orexportingtravellers cheques. the country, see p20 . of thecostsassociated withtravelling around in thisbookare inNZdollars. Foranidea you handover your money. and thenroundedtothenearest 10cwhen Prices are often stillmarked insinglecents coins, and$5,$10,$20,$50$100notes. 100 cents.There are 10c,20c,50c,$1and$2 NZ’s currency istheNZdollar,comprising Currency nice one! personal bankaccountwhilstontheroad– and abalanceyoucantop-upfromyour Passport withdrawalfees cards)withset offer debitcards(Travelex callsthemCash you leave. Companiessuch asTravelex 702 There are restrictions nonotable on noted,Unless allpricesquoted otherwise IETR • Ps ••Post DIRECTORY prxDlvr -0 6-10 $5 $3 3-10 Approx Delivery $3.50 $2 $2.50 Ex LargeLetter R &SouthPacific Aust Large Letter Letter $1.50 $1.50 Postcard $1.50 Item press services also available): and therest of rates theworld.Standard (ex- two zones:AustraliaandtheSouthPacific, letters. larger lettersfor standard andpostcards,$1for pensive. postcosts50c WithinNZstandard .nzpost.co.nz) The offered by services POST free butshoparoundforthe best rates. in thelarger citiesare sometimescommission their cheques. Private moneychangers found commission-freeperform thetask if youuse from banktobank,whileAmexorTravelex ing foreign-currency traveller’s cheques vary cashing them.Fees forchang- per transaction present yourpassportforidentificationwhen cheques are easilyexchanged. to Youneed and otherinternational brandsof travellers Amex,Travelexrather old-hat.Nevertheless, cess inNZcanmake travellers cheques seem The ubiquityof debit-andcredit-card ac- Traveller’s Cheques ever town yourequire.ever Mail isusually held of ‘Poste Restante,Main PostShop’ inwhich- atsupermarketspurchased and bookshops. ing hours, see p694 canusuallyalso be . Stamps postoffice open- this guidebook.Forstandard bornly refer tothemaspost offices throughout modern shop-stylepremises, butwestillstub- upintheir traditionaloldbuildingsand set days,asmosthave removedthese been from Many NZpost officesare called‘PostShops’ Sending &ReceivingMail incredibly precise calculatoron the website. by ‘express’ at least50%more. Checkout the 20%moreparcels by‘air’isroughly expensive; ‘express’ (within amatter of days).Tosend orto five ‘air’(onetotwoweeks) weeks), theparcel‘economy’(threewhether yousend for letters; and pricingdependsonweight International parcelzonesare as thesame (work days) International destinationsare dividedinto You canhave mailaddressed toyoucare are reliable andreasonably inex- New Zealand Post New Zealand lonelyplanet.com est ofWorld (www
NZ isn’t oneof countrieswhere those it’snec- SHOPPING to collect it. form of identification(such asapassport) toprovidefor 30daysandyouneed some lonelyplanet.com most sizable towns.Few (ifany)places inthe Fine NZ in craft productscanbepurchased Crafts in outdoor-gear shops. blue-and-black plaidones;pickup‘Swannies’ areas. Mostcommonare thered-and-black or practically thenationalgarmentin country pullovers are soridiculously practical,they’re combination of merinowooland possum fur. ments madefromalovely soft yarnthat’s a include hats,gloves Lookforgar- andscarves. hand-dyed wool.Otherknitted knick-knacks (jerseys orsweaters) madefromhand-spun, loved boot)andbeautifulwoollenjumpers ugg products such asfootwear(includingthemuch- tival in Wellington ( p411 ). ( p464 ) inNelson,orattend thenamesake fes- Museum amazing WearableArt&ClassicCars boundaries of fashionablecreativity, visitthe are preparedfar NewZealanders topush the justhow Oxford Tce. Tosee self-important along Sts,thenparadeyourself orCashel High Christchurch, pickupnewdudsonColombo, Quay.In fashionalongLambton and high retro mix-and-match boutiquesonCubaSt St;WellingtonoffersPonsonby RdandHigh Trelise Cooper,Nom.Dand Little Brother. Kate Sylvester,as Zambesi, Karen Walker, to findthem.Keep aneyeoutforlabels such on thehottest designers andlabelswhere .fashionz.co.nz forup-to-date information NZdesigners.established Checkoutwww flairofwith thesartorial youngandwell- boast fashion-consciousboutiquesablaze Wellington ( p419 ) andChristchurch ( p543 The ) main citiesof Auckland( Clothing p129 ), qualities. unique crafted items fortheirown youcanpurchase your camera. Butthere are numerouslocally from thedepths of memoryortheinnardsof inthemselves, tobepluckedmentoes later landscapesareyour visit;thespectacular me- tobuyaT-shirtessary tohelpyouremember From thebacksof NZsheep comesheepskin In Aucklandheadtoplaceslike Newmarket, Long woollenSwanndrijackets, shirtsand DIRECTORY ••Shopping DIRECTORY places where paua is plentiful. Be awareplaces where that pauais plentiful.Be tractive ways. Shells are asashtraysin used generic souvenirs, often unat- indelightfully ness willfindthat it’salsoincorporated into Loverscarvings. of kitsch andgeneral tacki- lery andisoften asaninlayinMaori used into somebeautifulornamentsand jewel- Abalone shell,called paua inNZ,iscarved Paua artists are registered with this scheme. non-Maori artists. Donote thatnotallMaori Maoriand via‘co-productions’between and produced bygroupsof ‘mainlyMaori’ artists versions of thetrademark, identifyingitems of Maori descent.There are alsomodified output of individualartistsor groupsof artists ated bya Maori artsboardtoidentifythe trademark ifit’saccompaniedbythe made piece,see worn onaleatherstringaround the neck. styles,areand modernised mostcommon, intraditionalMaori hook pendants,carved they cater tothetouristindustry.Bonefish- shape of humansandanimals,but nowadays inthe havetisans alwaysmadebonecarvings thing of arenaissance aroundNZ.Maori ar- Auckland. in ples of thecraftth work;avoidhigh-quality buyingpoorexam- You’llpayapremiumMaori for carvings. traditional detailed dolphins, aswellhighly produceintricate formslike leaping Carvers you maybeable tobuydirectly fromtheartist. the town’sMaori craftshops; insomecases cultural area ( p326 ) inRotorua,thenbrowse of atTe artisans the efforts Whakarewarewa whakairo rakau For somebrilliantexamplesof Maori Maori Arts enclave near Queenstown. with galleries,andArrowtown( p628 ), anartsy ofdistance downtown Aucklandandreplete ket. ( DittoDevonport p108 ), withinstriking populated by galleriesandtheoccasionalmar- ( p459 ) isanothervery craftyplace,heavily glassware andaccessories.TheNelson region cally designedandcrafted jewellery,ceramics, offers dozensof lo- shops andgalleriesselling visitors. InChristchurch ( theArtsCentre p526 ) inspired topassing tohand-shapeitems forsale country are of devoid someonewho’sbeen Maori bone carvings areMaori undergoing some- bonecarvings To confirmtheauthenticityof anyMaori- toi iho (woodcarving), check out (woodcarving),
(www.toiiho.com) at linesthesouvenir shops , asymbolcre-
703 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY ally recorded information services, charg- ally recorded information services, ing upwards of $1per minute (more from Numbers with starting INFORMATION &TOLL-FREE CALLS Local &International Calls (www.vodafone.co.nz) Another mobile networkoptionis a stake inthelocalmobile(cell)market. country’s key domesticplayerandalsohas Telecom NewZealand TELEPHONE or Chinese European) jade. offshore imported (usually companyselling local operatorwhocraftsstone,notan few questionstoensure you’re buyingfroma for anotherperson, Ask notforyourself. a Christchurch. Museum in ( p531) Canterbury and Auckland (p102), Wellington, Museum in (p405) museum ( Museum Otago p581 ) inDunedin,Te Papa collections bothancientandmodern,visitthe share of and giftshops. Rotorua ( p336 ) alsohasitsfair ( p507 ), which isstrewn withjadeworkshops monster). (sea great string orchain aroundtheneck.They’ve got stuck outinwarlike repose, wornonaleather figures, usuallydepicted withtheirtongue hei legend, Tiki wasthefirst mancreated and ally means‘hanginghumanform’–inMaori popular isthe incarnations of Maori motifs.Oneof themost shops, butyouwillfindlotsof stonygreen (war clubs)in Greenstone). of Greenstone) orTe WaiPounamu(TheWater the islandTe WahiPounamu(ThePlaceof west coastof theSouthIsland–Maoris called raw material. It’sfoundpredominantly onthe jade ornephrite) tobeaculturallyinvaluable Maoris consider Pounamu be taken with you. ornamentscan the country–onlyprocessed it’s illegaltotake naturalpauashells outof 704 the fertility symbols.Otherpopularmotifsare You’re unlikely tocomeacrossany The bestplacetobuy Traditionally, is‘tohang’.Theyare Maori tiny,stylised taniwha IETR • Tlpoe ••TelephoneDIRECTORY mana pounamu (power), but they also serve as (power),buttheyalsoserve (monster) andthe hei tiki, pounamu . pounamu pounamu crafts. To see impressive crafts.Tosee
(www.telecom.co.nz) thenameof which liter- pounamu studiosorsouvenir % is bought asagift isbought resoe or ( greenstone, 0900 are usu- marakihau isHokitika Vodafone isthe mere
cannot bedialledfrom outside NZ. (followed bythe country code). code (withouttheinitial0).SoforaLondon you need todialtheinternational accessyou need the countryyoucall,butisusually ing onthenumberof phonecompanies in operator. Theaccessnumbervaries,depend- ries orare available fromtheNZinternational aretails listed inthefrontof telephone directo- calls. CountryDirect numbers andotherde- make reverse-charge (collect)orcredit-card nects callers inNZwithoverseas operators to list of providers. ping around–consultthe reduce the rates more, even soit’sworthshop- tively inexpensive andsubjecttospecialsthat using. International callsfromNZare rela- will varydependingonwhich provider you’re cost andinternational diallingcodeforcalls Payphones allowinternational callsbutthe INTERNATIONAL CALLS beginning with or frommobile phones.Telephone numbers areasthey maynotbeaccessiblefromcertain charge fromanywhere inthecountry,though % payphones. from numbers cannotbedialledmobiles); these have todial thearea code, regardless of the region ifit’stoanearbytown)you do (even the area code. Butifyou’re diallingwithin a todial town),youdon’tneed inthesame else payphone. any calls,whichdistance canbe madefrom regionalNZ uses area codesforlong- LONG-DISTANCE CALLS&AREA CODES rates and attract higher are timed. tomobile time.unlimited phones Calls talk calls frompayphonescost50c;bothinvolve Local callsfromprivate phonesare free! Local LOCAL CALLS code minusthe initial zero. code is a specialcodetoaccess their service. number. operators willhave youdial Certain number you’ddial code ( If you’re makingalocalcall (ietosomeone To make international callsfromNZ Toll-free numbers inNZhave theprefix The toll-free Country Direct service con- The toll-free CountryDirect service If diallingNZfromoverseas, the country 0800 or % % 00), thecountrycodeandarea 64, followedbytheappropriate area % 0508 andcanbecalledfree of % 0508, % 00-44-20, thenthe % Yellow Pages 0800 or lonelyplanet.com % % 000-9 0900 fora and mostpartsof theNorthIslandbutcan phone coverage isgoodincitiesandtowns $6/25 per day/week, withpick-upanddrop- $6/25 perday/week, Mobile Phones relevant area codes. the numbers inthisbookare listed withtheir code astheplaceyou’re diallingfrom.All fact thattheplaceyou’re callinghasthesame lonelyplanet.com ing), when it’snooninNZ 10aminSydney, April. following are woundbackonthefirst Sunday of the clocks hour onthelastSunday inSeptember; time, where clocksare woundforwardbyone Time. Standard two hours aheadof AustralianEastern NZ is12hours aheadof GMT/UTC and thefirst each sunrise newyear).Islands sees thenewday(PittIsland intheChathamstart NZ isoneof thefirst places intheworldto Being totheinternational dateclose line, TIME rates varyfromcompany to company. on thecard.It’sworthshoppingaround–call free accessnumberandthenthePIN any publicorprivate phonebydiallingatoll- with canbeused $5, $10,$20and$50).These and postofficesforafixed dollarvalue(usually which athostels, canbebought newsagencies NZ hasawiderange of phonecards available, Phonecards arrange thisinadvancevia the website. mum charge $10)or$40permonth.You can also rent aSIMcardfor$2.50perday(mini- outletsatNZ’smajoroff airports.Youcan Vodafone phone fromhome,youcanrent onefrom anywhere. practically at newsagencies, andshops postoffices worth of calls);top-upscanbepurchased phone number(about $35,including$10 youupwithaSIMcardand towns) willset Any Vodafoneshop(foundinmostmajor Vodafone withalocalSIMcard, aprepaiduse service Island. South be patchy away fromurbancentres onthe the prefix Local mobile phonenumbers are preceded by So (excludingthe duration of sav- daylight daylight-saving In summerNZobserves Alternatively, ifyoudon’tbringyourown If youwanttobringyourownphoneand
(www.vodafone.co.nz) Rental % 021,
DIRECTORY ••Time DIRECTORY (www.vodarent.co.nz) % 025 or isapracticaloption. % 027. Mobile priced from and town sections. under Information headingsinrelevant city visitor information centres are or offices listed at visitorcentres. forlocal details Contact visitor centres brochure fromthewebsite or centre before out.CollecttheDOC youset local weatherconditionsatthenearest visitor of themajor tocheck cities. Itsimportant parks, major regional centres andineach visitorcentres areDOC foundin national flora andfaunabiodiversity challenges. displays andinfoonlocallore, NZ’sunique make bookings.Visitorcentres usually have to helpyouplanyourrecreation activitiesand environments. competitive other, acurioussituationthatexistsinhighly activity oraccommodationprovider over an- aren’ttre torecommend supposed staff one In otherwords,sometimesinformationcen- operators thattheyberepresented equally. ironically hamstrungbythedemandsof local local touristassociation,whileothers are operators whoare payingmembers of the tres onlypromote accommodation andtour helpful. overwhelmingly atsmallercentres areto beoutdone,staff often activities, transportandaccommodation.Not alsoactastravel agents,maps. Staff booking ties andattractions,free brochures and abundantinformationonlocal activi- staff, national tourismbody),andhave trained (theofficial ated withTourismNewZealand i-SITEnetwork,whichoutstanding isaffili- The bigger centres united withinthe stand tohaveseems avisitorinformationcentre. it hasanyworthwhileattractionsornot– Kiwi cityortown–whether Almost every Local TouristOffices pages. booklets, plusinformation-packed Internet busily generated of mountains brochures and tourisminfrastructure developed highly that NZhada asapseudo-Middle-earth, status marketing campaignsandthecountry’s cult Even before the success of recent international TOURIST INFORMATION the WorldTime Zonesmap(p754). islands. Formore oninternational timing,see Chathams are 45minutes aheadof NZ’smain 5pm theprevious dayinSanFrancisco. The 8am inSingapore, inLondonand midnight There visitorcentres isanetworkof DOC inmindthatmanyinformationcen- Bear
705 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY at Mnc, C 90401) CA Monica, Santa .nz) zealand.com) Zealand the your thing, see walks.co.nz. Ifcold-weatheractivity ismore walks. It’savailable onlineatwww.accessible- scriptions of more than100SouthIsland Jameson ($26)which offers first-hand de- of awildernesspathway, pickupacopy tackle out onNZ’sgreat outdoors. Ifyou’dlike to specifically to travellers withdisabilities. The latter listsNZtouroperators catering Accommodation, andTravel andTourism. then categories include Transport,Holiday disability informationwebsite the main centres. CCS are available frombranches of notice isrequired. Mobilityparkingpermits hand controlsatnoextracharge; advance firms (Avis, Hertz etc)provide cars with wheelchair-accessible car-hire vans.Large companiesofferto alloweasyaccess);taxi that hydraulicallystoopdowntokerb level buses bykneeling are alsoserviced operate from mostmajor centres. Key cities with advance notice. wheelchairs often available atkey attractions similarly provide access,with wheelchair accessible rooms.Many touristattractions tels andB&Bs equippedwithwheelchair- significant numberof hostels, hotels, mo- well fortravellers with withadisabilities, Kiwi accommodationgenerally caters fairly TRAVELLERS WITHDISABILITIES USA &Canada UK &Europe Australia include: offices andJapanese).cluding German Overseas languages (in- has informationinseveral branding)which100% Pure NewZealand (emblazoned withthehugely successful for pretrip research website istheofficial countries aroundtheworld.Agoodplace NewZealand Tourism Tourist OfficesAbroad 706 NW 2000) NSW 80 Haymarket, London 80 Haymarket, SW1Y 4TQ) For good general information, see NZ’sFor goodgeneral information,see Tour operators withaccessiblevehicles Travellers notmiss need withdisabilities andclickonLivingwithaDisability Accessible Walks
( % IETR • Taelr ihDsblte ••TravellerswithDisabilities DIRECTORY
0800 227200,04-8010854;www.ccs.nzl.org) (www.disabledsnowsports.org.nz) ( % hasrepresentatives invarious ( %
02-8220 9000;L24,1Alfred St,Sydney, ( % 020-7930 1662;NewZealand House, 310-395-7480; 501SantaMonicaBlvd,
byAnnaandAndrew Disabled Snowsports New Disabled Snowsports ( % 04-917 5400;www.new
(www.weka.net website. New Zealand
(buses in essed elsewhere in essed the world. countries (egSamoa,Fiji),orNZ$130ifproc- SouthPacific inAustraliaorcertain processed months’ validityandcostNZ$100if standard beforevisa entering NZ. Japan, theNetherlandsand the USA. Ireland, France,Germany, include Canada, departure fromNZ.Nationsinthisgroup months beyondthedate of theirplanned prepaid)been andapassportvalidforthree or NZ$400permonthifaccommodationhas (NZ$1000permonth, to supporttheirstay they have funds anonwardticket, sufficient of forstays uptothreevisa months, provided visa-waiver agreements a withNZdon’tneed country forupto six months. inthe eitherandcanstay avisa don’t need have nocriminalconvictions).UKcitizens indefinitelyNZ andcanstay (provided they tovisit Citizens of avisa Australiadon’tneed Visitor’s Visa overseas; consult the website. .govt.nz) (NZIS; the or through diplomatic missions overseas, travel agents applicationformsareVisa available fromNZ VISAS a work visa rangesa workvisa fromNZ$180 to NZ$280 when you entered thecountry. Thefee for NZ, butit’svalidity willbebackdated to can applyforawork permitafter you’re in rive and isvalidforuptothree years. You translates intoaworkpermitonceyouar- which toapplyfor aworkvisa, you’ll need or youalready have anemployment offer, permit. Ifyou’re visitingNZtofindwork, orwho canlegallygainworkwithout avisa except forAustraliansNZ onavisitor’svisa, It’s illegalforforeign nationalstoworkin Work Visa&WorkingHolidayScheme Finderon the Office the website). Apply forextensions atanyNZISoffice (see as proof of ongoingfinancialself-support. criteriabasis; visitors such tomeet willneed onacase-by-case Applications are assessed or toamaximumof 12months inthecountry. to ninemonths withinone18-monthperiod, Visitors’ of canbeextended forstays visas up VISA EXTENSIONS Citizens of a othercountriesmust obtain Citizens of another56countries thathave % . TheNZIShasover adozen offices 0508 558855,09-9144100;www.immigration New Zealand ImmigrationService New Zealand
Visas comewiththreeVisas lonelyplanet.com
holiday schemes (WHS). Under these schemesholiday schemes (WHS).Underthese travels cantake partinoneof NZ’sworking short-term employmenttosupplementtheir type of application. depending onwhere andthe it’sprocessed lonelyplanet.com breaching condi- this(orany other)visa not allowed toworkforpay. Ifyou’re caught If youarrive you’re inNZonavisitor’svisa WORK information. problem inNZbutof itdoes course happen. managed. well accommodation unlessitlooks safe and should alsobewaryof inbasicpub staying youandyourbed.Lonewomenbetween may bealotof streets unlit,semideserted appliesinruraltownswhereThe same there backtoyouraccommodation.aside forataxi moneyout onthetown,alwayskeep enough hitchhiketowns, andnever alone. Ifyou’re inanyoflate atnight themajor citiesand tions apply.It’sbesttoavoid walkingalone travellers, precau- theusualsensible although NZ isgenerally avery safe placefor women WOMEN TRAVELLERS below. also See workingholiday. .immigration.govt.nz/migrant/stream/work/ your country’sagreement withNZatwww so make sure youread uponthespecificsof declined. is apply, andisn’trefunded ifyourapplication cation fee isNZ$120regardless of where you least NZ$4200inaccessiblefunds.Theappli- the date theywillleave of NZandevidence at passport validforatleastthree months from Applicants musthave anonwardticket, a dents of somecountriescanapplyonline. fromwithintheirowncountry;resi-visa than three months. toworkforoneemployermoresupposed holiday, notpermanentwork,soyou’re not agenuine working seeking sued tothose isvalidfor12months.the visa It’sonlyis- Formostnationalities can applyforavisa. Scandinavian countries,theUKandUSA– Ireland, Japan, Malaysia, theNetherlands, France,Germany, tries –includingCanada, citizens aged 18to30years from26coun- Eligible travellers whoare onlyinterested in See www.womentravel.co.nzSee formore harassmentisnotawidely reportedSexual The rulesvaryfordifferent nationalities Most eligiblenationalsmustapplyforthis DIRECTORY ••WomenTravellers DIRECTORY jb listed. jobs ofNZ job-search networkswith thousands while ment agencies), broken down intoregions, health, teaching, volunteer workandrecruit- tunities invariousfields(agriculture, creative, local work possibilities. other travellers are thebestsourcesof infoon Backpacker publications,hostel managers and Information ditions or exploitative pay. priority ifyouencounter con- unsatisfactory worthy opportunities–yourwellbeingisthe will notalwaysbeeasy.Huntaroundfor work inNZbutfindingsomethingsuitable opportunities. for (p87) websites resort qualified, skiorsnowboardinstructing.Check ing, skitowoperationand,ifyou’re properly towns includesbartending, waiting,clean- year-round. available lers tofindwork.Otheragriculturalworkis hostels or holidayparksoften helptravel- tive employers directly; local otherwise on theSouthIsland.Approach prospec- (AlexandraandRoxburgh) Otago Central MarlboroughBay), (aroundBlenheim)and North Island;Nelson(Tapawera andGolden and Hawkes (NapierandHastings) Bay onthe Paihia), ruralAuckland,Tauranga, Gisborne oftions includetheBay Islands(Kerikeri and from DecembertoMay. Primepickingloca- is bucket orkilogram).Thepickingseason usually paidbyhowmuch youpick(perbin, ing toil–turnover of workers You’re ishigh. around $10to$15anhourforphysicallytax- are Rates pay isbad,buttheworkdifficult’. early autumn.As ‘The anoptimistoncesaid, fruit andveg fromsummerto are harvested 30,000 hectares of apples,kiwifruitandother vesting isprimeshort-term workforvisitors. work agency to get started. and telemarketing. Register withalocal office- workinIT,banking,finance Office-based orskiresorts.picking, farming),hospitality work around,mainlyinagriculture (fruit porary employment.There’s plentyof casual opposite ), lookintothepossibilitiesfortem- from. came tion, youcouldbebooted backtowhere you Kiwi Careers Kiwi There are manypossibilitiesforshort-term Winter work atskiresorts andtheirservice fruitpicking,pruningandhar-Seasonal If youhave approved been foraWHS(see Seek Seek (www.seek.co.nz)
(www.kiwicareers.govt.nz) isoneof thebiggest listsoppor-
707 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY runs an employment service viaitsweb- runs anemploymentservice takes eight to10workingdays takes eight be issued. ment noIR595.AnIRDnumbernormally functiontofinddocu- thesearch website –use the number. Downloadtheapplicationformfrom Department(IRD) anInlandRevenue obtain Travellers paidworkinNZmust undertaking IRD Number possibilities. other lists job vacanciesinBBHhostels andafew Hostels Backpacker site, whiletheNoticeBoardslinkon focusing onseasonal horticultural work. Pick NZ ers, rates of payandnearbyaccommodation. of details employerscontact lookingforwork- of ofdatabase thousands casualjobs.Itgives the 708 Base Backpackers Base Backpackers WorkNZ Seasonal Inland Revenue IETR • Wr ••Work DIRECTORY
(www.picknz.co.nz)
(www.seasonalwork.co.nz) (BBH; www.bbh.co.nz/travellers) Department Department provides a similar service, provides asimilarservice, (www.stayatbase.com/work) (www.ird.govt.nz) has a Budget
7020; [email protected]; Private Bag 7020; [email protected]; Private 1932, Dunedin) the theIRDwebsite,For more orcontact infosee of departure (egairticket copies)totheIRD. return,mit itwithyourtax alongwithproof (documentnoIR50)formandsub- Zealand a RefundApplication–People New Leaving refundify foratax whenyouleave. Complete on aworkingholidayscheme), youmayqual- will alsobededucted fromyour pay packet. (1.2%) Scheme levy Accident Compensation incomes.ANZ to $60,000and39%forhigher then33%up $38,000 ($730grossperweek), ratestax are upto 19.5%forannualsalaries As (PAYE). YouEarn NZincome Standard payments byemployers –aprocesscalledPay deductedwill besubjecttoincometax, from of travellers, anyKiwidollars earnedinNZ There isno escapingit!Forthevastmajority Paying Tax If youvisitNZandworkforashorttime(eg Inland Revenue Non-Resident Centre Non-Resident Inland Revenue lonelyplanet.com ( %
. 03-467 lonelyplanet.com
709 DIRECTORY TRANSPORT 709 03-358 5029; www.christchurch 03-358 5029; 07-848 9027; www.hamiltonairport 07-848 9027; 0800 247 767, 09-275 0789; www 0800 247 767, 09-275 0789; 03-486 2879; www.dnairport.co.nz) % % % % (CHC; (HLZ; (AKL; (DUD; The high seasonfor flights dur- into NZ is AIR .co.nz) There’s a number of competing airlines serv- competing a number of There’s to choose fares icing NZ and a wide variety of Europe flying in from Asia, from if you’re you’ll or North America, though ultimately still pay a lot for a flight unless you jet in popularity NZ’s inordinate from Australia. activities mean year-round of and abundance can be year airports that almost any time of swarming with inbound tourists – if you want year (eg to fly at a particularly popular time of in advance. Christmas), book well with ing summer (December to February), the over on fares a premium slightly less of and (October/November shoulder months season The low tal- generally March/April). (June months lies with the winter to August), thoughbusy time for airlines fer- this is still a powder hounds. rying ski bunnies and Airports & Airlines Seven flights, NZ airports handle international traffic: most with Auckland receiving Auckland Christchurch Dunedin Hamilton gage carousel first. Recent global instability carousel Recent global gage first. securityin increased air- in NZ has resulted domestic and international ports, in both proce- you may find customs and terminals, One procedure time-consuming. more dures Advance Passenger has the Orwellian title documents that whereby a system Screening, down you touched after used to be checked now checked in NZ (passport, visa etc) are sure you board your flight – make before all your documentation is in order so your is stress-free. check-in Passport when it comes to no restrictions are There a NZ. If you have citizens entering foreign passport and visa (or don’t require current be fine. ), you should p706 one; see .auckland-airport.co.nz) -airport.co.nz) THINGS CHANGE… THINGS CHANGE… is particu- information in this chapter The Check directly larly vulnerable to change. agent to make with the airline or a travel (and ticket you understand how a fare sure of the you may buy) works and be aware for international security requirements in details given The Shop carefully. travel. as point- should be regarded this chapter own for your not a substitute ers and are research. up-to-date careful, Air 709 Air Getting There & Away There Getting the Country Entering 713 Sea Around Getting 713 Air 714 Bicycle 709 714 Boat 714 Bus 709 & Motorcycle Car Hitching721 Local Transport 721 Train 713 716 721 can be booked and rail tickets Flights, tours New Zealand’s location peaceably isolated and the uncool scramble to get to the lug- and the uncool scramble to get CONTENTS is a the South Pacific in a distant of patch drawcard, but it also means that un- major to from Australia, you have less you travel there. with a long-haul flight to get contend NZ is servicedAs good airline and bus by a around the country is networks, travelling taxing endeavour. less much online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings. GETTING THERE & AWAY ENTERING THE COUNTRY a straight- NZ is generally Disembarkation in forward affair, with only the usual customs ) p695 (seedeclarations to endure Customs, Transport lonelyplanet.com
708 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © TRANSPORT TRANSPORT townairport.co.nz) tional Airport, tional Airport, Jakarta) Interna- www.garuda-indonesia.com; hubSoekarno-Hatta tional Airport) www.malaysiaairlines.com; hubKualaLumpur Interna- pacific.com; hubNadiAirport, Fiji) .cathaypacific.com; hubHongKongInternational Airport) www.airnz.co.nz; hub AucklandInternational Airport) Polynesian Blue .flypacificblue.com; hub Brisbane Airport) Pacific Blue OzJet Airlines Malaysia Air Korean Jetstar Indonesia Garuda Emirates Pacific Cathay Air Pacific Air NewZealand Argentinas Aerolineas for diallingfromwithin NZ only): and 0508phonenumbers mentionedhere are tions includethefollowing(note that0800 that connectNZwithinternational destina- America, eastern Asia andthePacific. Airlines which fliestorunwaysacrossEurope,North NZ’s ownoverseas carrierisAir NewZealand, ZEALAND AIRLINES FLYING TO&FROMNEW Wellington Queenstown Palmerston North 710 International Airport) 3675; www.aerolineas.com.ar; hubBuenosAires Ezeiza ates.com; hubDubaiInternational Airport) airport.co.nz) .koreanair.com; hubIncheonInternationalAirport, Seoul) .com; hub Melbourne International .com; hubMelbourne Airport) -airport.co.nz) www.polynesianblue.com; hub Brisbane www.polynesianblue.com; hubBrisbane Airport) International .au; hubMelbourne Airport) Pay viacredit cardorcash. before youboardyourflight.at theairport butmustbepaidseparatelyairline tickets, age). The taxisnotincludedinthepriceof two to11,free forthoseundertwoyearsof aged 12andover (NZ$10forchildren aged plies whenleavingNZ,payablebyanyone An international taxofNZ$25ap- departure DEPARTURE TAX ETN HR WY • i THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING (airline codeOZ; (airlinecodeJQ; (airlinecodeEK; (airlinecodeFJ; (airlinecodeKE; (airlinecodeDJ; (WLG; (ZQN; (airlinecodeCX; (airlinecodeDJ; (airlinecodeNZ; (airlinecodeMH; % (PMR; % (airline codeGA; % 04-385 5100; www.wellington % 03-450 9031; www.queens (airlinecodeAR; % % 06-351 4415;www.ozjet.com % 0800 800995;www.jetstar % % 0508 364728;www.emir 0800 800178;www.air 06-351 4415; www.pn % 09-914 2000;www 0800 670000;www % % 0800 800454;www % % 0800 670000; 0800 737000; 0800 777747; 09-366 1855; % 09-379 loop theplanet.Youcangoanywhere thepar- a limited period(usuallyayear)inwhich to specialises in cheaper tickets. ToflyLA–Samoa–Auckland– specialises in cheapertickets. www.singaporeair.com; hubChangiInternational Airport) Airport, .com.au; hubKingsford-Smith Sydney) continents. Backtracking isgenerally continents. Backtracking permitted stops anddon’tbacktrackwhenflyingbetween the prescribed kilometre extents ornumberof within ticipating airlinesgo,aslongyoustay .com) (www.staralliance.com) the three biggest airlinealliances, real bargains. They’re generally puttogether by world, round-the-world(RTW) tickets canbe If you’re flyingtoNZfromtheothersideof the INTERCONTINENTAL (RTW)TICKETS other advice. useful deals, strategies foravoiding layovers and a travel agent withthelowdownonspecial on specifieddates, butare nosubstitute for you’re doing asimpleone-wayorreturn trip Automated onlineticket workwellif sales AirwaysInternational Thai Airlines Singapore Royal BruneiAirlines Qantas Air Brokers fares, withthefollowing start websites: For onlineticket bookings, includingRTW SITESONLINE TICKET on howmanystopovers you can take. As withRTW tickets, there are restrictions with stopover optionsinthePacific islands. Australia, NZ,NorthAmericaand Asia, using acombinationof airlinestoconnect ticket butcovers amore limited region, A CirclePacific ticket issimilar toaRTW CIRCLE PACIFIC TICKETS UK£700 ex-UK,US$1850 ex-USA. your but allowyoutodevise own itinerary. often more expensive thanairlineRTW fares specialist websites (see below are). These put together byatravel agent orRTW- restrictions; thewebsites see for details. withcertain within asinglecontinent,though tional Airport) 377 3886;www.thaiairways.com; hubBangkokInterna- www.bruneiair.com; Begawan hubBandarSeri Airport) Tickets Bargain RTW tickets fromaround start An alternative typeof RTW ticket isone and (airlinecodeQF; Skyteam (www.airbrokers.com) ThisUScompany (www.airbrokers.com) (www.skyteam.com) (airlinecodeSQ; , Oneworld (airlinecodeBI; % 0800 808767;www.qantas (airline codeTG;
(www.oneworldalliance lonelyplanet.com % , andgive you % 09-303 2129; 09-302 1524; Star Alliance % 09-
site; lookupfares andflightsto/fromthe country. for USA-related flights. worldwide flightsfromtheUK;getinearlyfor bargains. Cheap Flights around US$2000 (excluding taxes). Kong–LAcosts Christchurch–Sydney–Bangkok–Hong lonelyplanet.com Travelocity Travelocity Travel.com.au Online Travel STA Travel UK£740 inthe NZ winter. includingAsia,Australia,NZandtheUSAcostsfrom trip fromtheUKwithuptosixstops. Asix-stop own trip flights.com) Thisexcellent siteallowsyoutobuildyour Roundtheworldflights.com Flights.com International Flight Centre Expedia Cheapest Flights check worldwideflights from NZ. the USA and UK/Ireland. with specials,airlineinformationandflightsearchesfrom anywhere. you tosearchfares (inUSdollars)from/topractically flights; cheapfares andan easy-to-search database. NZ, Australia,theUK,USA,Canadaand South Africa. flights,withsitesfor operatorhandlingdirect Respected site linked toworldwide site linked STA sites. tional studenttravelbutyoudon’thavetobeastudent; consumption over awholeyear. the USwillcontribute asmuchtoclimate changeasanaverage household’sgasandelectricity mosphere. The statisticsare areturn frightening: flightbetweenEurope twopeopletaking and distances theyallowustotravel, butbecausetheyrelease greenhouse gaseshighintotheat- climate change)butplanesare farand awaytheworstoffenders, notjustbecauseofthesheer staff andauthortravel. the carbonoffset schemerunbyclimatecare.org.dustry, support LonelyPlanetoffsets allof its and Uganda. travel schemes thatreduce inIndia,Honduras,Kazakhstan globalwarming–including projects level ofgreenhouse gasesthey are responsible forwithfinancialcontributionstosustainable Climatecare.org and otherwebsites use‘carboncalculators’thatallowtravellers to offset the Carbon Offset Schemes Pretty muchevery formofmotorisedtravel generates CO Flying &Climate Change efit, butbelieves weallhave aresponsibility onglobalwarming. tolimitourpersonalimpact fastest-growing contributortotheproblem.LonelyPlanetregards travel, overall, asaglobalben- Climate changeisaseriousthreat totheecosystems thathumansrely upon, andairtravel is the CLIMATE CHANGE &TRAVEL For more information checkoutourwebsite: www.lonelyplanet.com. inthetravel in- Lonely Planet,together withRoughGuidesandotherconcerned partners (www.expedia.com) Microsoft’s travelsite;good (www.expedia.com) Microsoft’s (www.statravel.com)Prominentininterna- (www.travelocity.com) USsitethatallows (www.flights.com) International sitefor (www.travelonline.co.nz) Goodplaceto (www.cheapflights.com) Informativesite (www.travel.com.au)GoodAustralian (www.cheapestflights.co.uk) Cheap GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING (www.roundtheworld (www.flightcentre.com) line Virgin Blue,offers direct between flights and Australiaontheir Asia-Pacific routes. a few otherinternational airlinesincludeNZ major Australiangateway cities,whilequite work of linkingkey flights NZcitieswithmost operate anet- andQantas Air NewZealand Australia major Asian cities. % .co.th; recommended. is times available. butexcellentbargainsdictable, are some- Kong andTokyo,dependingon the airline. Hong NZ$1600 toKualaLumpur,Bangkok, Singapore costaroundNZ$1350,and the otherway,return fares fromAucklandto Hong Kong,andUS$775fromTokyo. Going and US$850 fromKualaLumpur,Bangkok approximately US$650fromSingapore, around for discount tickets. and HongKongbeingthebestplacestoshop tive air-fare Singapore deals,withBangkok, Most Asian countriesoffer fairlycompeti- Asia Pacific Blue,asubsidiaryof budget air- STA Travel Hong Kong’stravel market canbeunpre- Common one-wayfares toAucklandcost 03-5391 2922;www.statravel.co.jp)
Singapore 2 (themaincauseofhuman-induced
% ( Bangkok 6737 7188;www.statravel.com.sg; Phoenix Services Phoenix % 02-236 0262;www.statravel has offices in hasoffices
( % 2722 7378) 711 Tokyo
TRANSPORT TRANSPORT www.flightcentre.com.au) from NZ, bothwithextensive connections rival anddeparture toand points forflights Frankfurt andLondon are themajor ar- Continental Europe Vancouver. to around NZ$1200toTorontoand NZ$1100 C$2000. One-wayfares at fromNZstart west coast.FromToronto,fares costaround C$1600and C$1900viatheUS cost between inall has offices major cities. nationalstudenttravelCanada’s agency and CUTS Travel soldintheUSA. thanthose about 10%higher air-ticket sellers (consolidators) tend tobe year-round. Vancouver has direct Aucklandand between flights before continuingtoNZ.AirNewZealand a UScitysuch asLosAngeles orHonolulu Toronto andVancouver stoppingin flights frommainlandUSA,withmost lar tothose areThe airroutes flownfromCanada simi- Canada around thecountry,is option, alsowithdozensof officesstrewn ( branchAustralian capital-city of results insome discounting. tasty inevitably competition,however, The intense asthisisapopularroute year-round.seasons, not asignificantdifference inpricebetween an Australianeast-coastcity.There’s usually NZ$270 andNZ$300foraone-wayticket to not get thecheapest fares with this itinerary. Christchurch tosave backtracking,butyoumay one-way. YoucanflyintoAucklandandoutof common pricesare fromAU$260 toAU$300 Auckland, Christchurch orWellington.More carrier fromeitherSydneyorMelbourne to under AU$200 foraone-wayfare onabudget the godssmilinguponyou,youmaypay andthe Hobart, Brisbane,Cairns Gold Coast. Christchurchtween andSydney,Melbourne, cities. Australian domestic Virgin Bluenetworktomanyother withconnectionsonthe east-coast capitals, Auckland, WellingtonandChristchurch and 712 % For somereasonably pricedfares, tryan From key NZcities,you’llpaybetween If youbookearly,shoparoundandhave The airfares discount soldbyCanadian Return fares fromVancouver toAuckland budgetQantas’ subsidiary,Jetstar, fliesbe- 134 782;www.statravel.com.au) ETN HR WY • i THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING
( % 866 2469762;www.travelcuts.com) . Flight Centre . Anothergood (
% STA Travel 133 133; is
international.nl) start at start around €1700. weekend broadsheet newspapers,weekend broadsheet in agencies appearinthetravel pages of the London. Advertisements formanytravel -frontieres.fr/nf) .com/vdm) connections.fr) Angeles, Honoluluandsundry Pacific islands. stopover possibilitiesincludeNewYork,Los Singapore andAustralia;intheotherdirection, stopovers incountriessuch asIndia,Thailand, USA. IfyouflyviaAsia youcanoften make toNZgoviaAsia from theUK,flights orthe Depending onwhich airlineyoutravel with UK &Ireland Voyageurs duMonde Voyages Usit Connect Frontières Nouvelles from €1200.Recommended companies: at start around €1400. www.statravel.de) branch of the Berlin is NZ$2400. and NZ$1800 and Frankfurtusuallycostbetween from NZtokey Europeanhubssuch asParis one of theAsian Returnairfares capitals. toNZtravellaunching pads, mostflights via twoto otherEuropeancities.Fromthese (Hawaii, Tahiti, Cook Islands). lines offer viavariousPacific flights islands SanFrancisco.some goingthrough Someair- with thebulkrouted LosAngeles through but mainland andNZ are to/from west-coastUSA, theNorthAmerican between Most flights USA Trailfinders STA Travel Flight Centre for return fares to London. NZ$2500andNZ$3000 expect topaybetween go upbyasmuch as30%.FromNZyoucan that June,Julyandmid-Decemberfares can ataround£550/750;note to Aucklandstart magazine Out, Holland International In Germany, goodtravelIn Germany, agencies include Typical one-way/return fares fromLondon Discount airtravel isbigbusinessin In France,return fares fromParis start A solidoptionintheDutch travel industry Popular agencies intheUK: inthe ( % ( TNT ( % Evening Standard . FromAmsterdam, return fares % 0871 2300040;www.statravel.co.uk) . Returnfares fromFrankfurt 0845 0585858;www.trailfinders.co.uk) . 0870 4990040; www.flightcentre.co.uk) ( ( % ( % % STA Travel
( 0825 000825; www.nouvelles % 0892 235656; www.vdm 0825 082525; www.usit 0900-8858; www.holland lonelyplanet.com (
andinthefree % 030-2859 8264; Time .com) provide essential transport services tothe provide transport services essential big cities. be foundinLosAngeles, NewYorkandother ofital somegooddealscan America,although lonelyplanet.com Air Chathams following: the the Chathams.Regional operators include Island intheHauraki Gulf,Stewart Islandand small outlyingislandssuch asGreat Barrier mainurban areas.also fliesbetween most of thecountry.Australia-based Qantas hasanaerialnetwork coveringNew Zealand, The country’smajor domestic carrier,Air Airlines inNewZealand flights. spread networkof intra-andinter-island NZ’s attractionscanmake themostof awide- Those who have limited timetoget between AIR GETTING AROUND no easy task. ship (much lessenjoyingtheexperience)is to/from NZandfindingaberthoncargo woods. the cyclones are tospininthatneckof starting to November isapeakdeparture as season heading toAustralia. FromFiji,October April are thebestmonths tolookforboats Auckland andWellington.March and and Whangarei (bothlocated inNorthland), ofharbours inNZincludetheBay Islands yacht clubs.Popularyachting andsailing asking aroundatharbours, marinas,and by hitching ridesorcrewing onyachts. Try Australia, andsomesmallerPacific islands, safe) tomake NZand yourwaybetween It’s bynomeans easyorpossible (though SEA to New York NZ$2500. NZ totheUSwestcoastare aroundNZ$2000; ReturnfaresUS$1700 inbothseasons. from ter/summer; fares at fromtheeastcoaststart aroundUS$1100/1300intheNZwin- start from Wellington, Christchurch from Wellington, Christchurch and Auckland. to theremote Chatham Islands chathams.co.nz) Services Return tickets toNZfromtheUSwestcoast San Franciscoistheticket consolidatorcap- Several small-scaleregional operatorsSeveral There are liners nopassenger operating has offices allover hasoffices the USA. STA Travel ( % GETTING AROUND••Air GETTING 0508 247248,03-3050209; www.air
( % 800 7814040;www.statravel Whangarei andGreat Island. Barrier .mountainair.co.nz) Fliesregularly betweenAuckland, Kaikoura, Blenheim Kaikoura, and Nelson. up to16timesperday;alsofliesbetweenWellingtonand Hops acrossCookStraitbetweenWellingtonandPicton Coromandel Peninsula. Island,Auckland,Whangarei andthe between Great Barrier 9120; www.greatbarrierairlines.co.nz) Pliestheskies lington (via Westport). .airwestcoast.co.nz) FliesbetweenGreymouth andWel- Takaka in Takaka Golden Bay. .capitalair.co.nz) Fliesregularly betweenWellingtonand Blenheim. Wellington including Wanganui,Palmerston North, and destinationsacrossCookStrait, .air2there.com) Connects the bannerAirNew Zealand Link. withacoupleofsmallaffiliatedairlinesunder conjunction flightsbetween25domestic destinations,in Offers (one-way fromNZ$400 to NZ$834). as farafield astheCookIslands andSamoa andTonga, including Fiji,New Caledonia from major AustraliancitiesorPacific islands to/ orflights NZ$408, depending ondistance), (one-way fromNZ$120to domestic flights of that ticket. (with anyairline)andare validforthe life conjunction withaninternational ticket be issued outsideNZ.Passes are issued in nonresidents of countries,andmust these Pacific islands.Thepassisonlyavailable to NZ,Australiaandanumberofbetween journeyswithinNZ,andvalid forselected Airpass as in the past. islands, thevalueof isn’tasred-hot airpasses the trans-Tasman route aswellthePacific and anumberof budget airlinesnowserving days, With discountingbeingthenormthese Passes Air IslandFlights Stewart Soundsair Qantas Mountain Air Airlines Barrier Great Air Capital Air2there.com Air WestCoast Air NewZealand Seat Island. Stewart FliesbetweenInvercargilland .stewartislandflights.com) Wellington, Christchurch Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown. Auckland,Rotorua, centres like tourism dots betweenkey Air New Zealand offers the Air NewZealand The passinvolves purchasing couponsfor ( ( % % ( ( % % 0800 808767;www.qantas.co.nz) Joinsthe 1800 2621234;www.airnewzealand.com) ( ( % ( 0800 505005;www.soundsair.co.nz) 0800 588885,03-5258725;www % % ( % 0800 222123,09-2567025;www 0800 247937,03-7380524;www 0800 777000,04-9045130;www 0800 737000;www.airnz.co.nz) ( ( % % 0800 900600,09-275 03-218 9129;www South Pacific 713
, TRANSPORT TRANSPORT to get panniers, ahelmetand otheressential thenyoustill need $400 to$500 –however, youcangetthough acheap one for around bike you’llpayanywhere from$700 to$1600, For adecenthybrid bike orrigidmountain cities, butpricesfornewermodels are high. Bicycles canbereadily inNZ’slarger bought Purchase to $20perhourand$30$45 per day. places totheirguests–are anywhere from$10 fees orfreebies offered byaccommodation bikesmountain –notincluding thediscounted offeredRates by mostoutfitsforrenting roador Hire and packing required. airline forcostsandthedegree of dismantling it byplanewithinNZ,check withtherelevant carry for a surcharge. they have storage spaceforbikes, which they bus companies,ontheotherhand,make sure charge upto$10.Someof thesmallershuttle (meaning bikes maynotbeallowedon)and only take bicyclesona‘spaceavailable’ basis port willfindthatmajor buslinesandtrains publictrans- on dulldays.Cyclistswhouse to have reflective or gear forcyclingatnight safety helmet(orriskafine);it’salsogood theboxedsee text, p596 . gold-mining heartlandof –fordetails, Otago path alonganoldrailwaylineintotheformer popular expeditionistofollowanupgraded have theirshare of Oneincreasingly devotees. butinlandroutes coastline willbeahighlight, by yourimagination.Cyclingsomeof the centres, asare bicycle repair shops. (to rent orbuy)are readily available inthemain accompany thehighs. Bikes andcyclinggear times, butthere are expansive flatsandlowsto Coast). Themanyhillsmake forhardgoing at cept ontheSouthIsland’srain-soaked West climate generally nottoohotorcold(ex- The roadsare generally ingoodnick,andthe ing camping)andeasilyaccessiblefreshwater. and haslotsof cheap accommodation(includ- it’sclean,greencause andrelatively uncrowded, heads. Thecountryispopularwithcyclistsbe- with fluoro-cladcreatures withaerodynamic over summer–theroadsandtrailsrunthick Touring cyclists proliferate inNZ,particularly BICYCLE 714 The choice of itinerariesislimited only If importingyourownbike ortransporting By lawallcyclistsmustwearanapproved ETN RUD • iyl AROUND••Bicycle GETTING and sightseeing armcalled and sightseeing routes orcovering alotof groundonthe Hawera viaNewPlymouth and Hamilton. betweenAuckland and .co.nz) Operatesadailyservice ston North. WellingtonwithHastingsandNapierviaPalmer-Connects lcl business. local aparkingspotoutsideprominent comprise The bus‘terminals’ insmallerplacesusually be expensive, tedious andtime-consuming. ofstart/end variouswalkingtracks),butitcan the farreaches of bothislands(including the transportingyouto organised, withservices Bus travel inNZisrelatively easyandwell BUS town of ObanonStewart Island (see p682 ). width of Foveaux andthe Bluff Straitbetween ferryand thepassenger thatnegotiates the Wellington andPicton(see p420 and p438 ferries thatchug acrossCookStraitbetween ), in theHauraki Gulf(see p133 ), theinter-island Aucklandandvariousislands between services country. Obviousexceptionsincludetheboat waterno long-distance transportaroundthe NZ may beanislandnationbutthere’s virtually BOAT newish cyclescanbe heavily discounted. andmidyearstocktakes, when Christmas sales as itsounds.Otheroptionsincludethepost- shape foralongroadtripisn’talwaysaseasy but findingsomethingthat’singoodenough (assuming youcan’tbringyourownover), Arguably you’re bike better buyingaused off touring gear, andthecostquicklyclimbs. Go Kiwi Shuttles Go Kiwi Dalroy Express Bay Xpress Ruapehu and Mt Tongariro. fieldsaroundMt NationalPark,Tongariro plustheski aroundTauposcenictours.co.nz) Hasservices andinto Alpine ScenicTours North Islandinclude: the southtoPaihia andKaitaia in the north. Islands, fromInvercargill andMilfordSoundin to justaboutanywhere ontheNorthandSouth (www.newmanscoach.co.nz) city.co.nz) 03-3651113,inDunedin03-4717143;www.inter Christchurch ( ilton with various towns acrosstheCoromandel ilton withvarious Peninsula. Auckland, RotoruaandHam- Links placeslike .go-kiwi.co.nz) % Smaller regional operators runningkey The dominantbuscompanyis in Auckland 09-623 1503, in Wellington 04-385 0520, in in Auckland 09-6231503,inWellington 04-3850520,in , which alsohasanextra-comforttravel ( % ( 0800 422997;www.bayxpress.co.nz) % ( % ( 0508 465622;www.dalroytours % 0800 446549,07-8660336; www . InterCity candrive you 07-378 7412;www.alpine Newmans CoachLines lonelyplanet.com InterCity InterCity
.co.nz) Connects Te.co.nz) Connects Anauand Queenstown. Nelson toInvercargillandmostplaces in between. Island,from Low-cost routesacrosstheSouth(andNorth) Auckland toWellingtonandmostplaces in between. (andSouth)Island,from Low-cost routesacrosstheNorth mouth, Queenstownand Dunedin, among others. Nelson,Picton, Grey- inChristchurch, South Island,taking www.southernlinkkbus.co.nz) Roamsacrossmostofthe cargill via Manapouri. .scenicshuttle.co.nz) betweenTe Drives AnauandInver- TeGreymouth/Hokitika, Anauand Queenstown/Wanaka. Nelson, Dunedin,Invercargill,Picton, ing toChristchurch, throughouttheSouthIsland,includ- .co.nz) Hasservices National Park, Taupo and Rotorua. .kiwitraveller.co.nz) RunsbetweenWellington,Otaki, via Dunedin.DavidHasselhoffnowhere to be seen… toInvercargill fromChristchurch service Runs anocturnal Tekapo. Lake betweenMtCook,Twizeland Triangulates nect.co.nz) Magic Travellers Network Travellers Magic Traveller Kiwi lonelyplanet.com Tracknet Topline Tours Southern LinkKBus Scenic Shuttle Bus Naked Knightrider Hanmer Connection East WestCoaches Cook Connection via Pass. Arthur’s .co.nz) toHokitika/Greymouth TravelsfromChristchurch Coast to Shuttles Atomic Abel Tasman Coachlines South Islandshuttle-bus companies: StarCityto White Waitomo Wanderer Bus Naked Tasman National Parks. andAbel GoldenBay,andKahurangi Nelson, Motueka, .abeltasmantravel.co.nz) Traversesthetarmacbetween .tracknet.net) Daily track transport (Milford, Routeburn, (Milford, .tracknet.net) Dailytracktransport North, Wanganuiand North, New Plymouth. starbus.co.nz) ShuttlesbetweenWellington,Palmerston Waitomo. www.waitomotours.co.nz) DoesaloopfromRotorua to covering bothislandsoreachindividually. covering .magicbus.co.nz) ofpassesavailable, Hasausefulcollection and three weekly services betweenHanmer and three weeklyservices and Kaikoura. andChristchurch, betweenHanmerSprings Provides services Reefton. and Springs turn-off,Maruia running viatheHanmerSprings andWestport, betweenChristchurch aservice .co.nz) Offers ( % ( ( ( % % % ( 0800 483262, 03-2497777;www ( ( ( % % % % 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) 0900 62533;www.nakedbus.com) 0900 62533;www.nakedbus.com) ( 03-342 8055;www.knightrider.co.nz) ( % GETTING AROUND••Bus GETTING % ( 03-249 8059;www.toplinetours 0800 500100,04-3847031;www 0800 800847;www.coast2coast 0800 277483,03-4370753;www ( % ( ( % % 03-349 0697;www.atomictravel % 0800 266526;www.cookcon ( 03-789 6251;eastwest@orcon % 0800 242 663; www.atsnz.com) 0800 242663;www.atsnz.com) ( 0508 458835,03-3588355; 0508 926337,03-4370753; % ( % 06-758 3338;www.white 03-548 0285;www 09-358 5600;www 146; www.flexipass.co.nz) lows youtotravel pretty much anywhere (and Milford Sound,Invercargill,FiordlandMilford andthe West Coast. etc)betweenQueenstown,TeHollyford, Kepler Anau, Island’s WestCoastand to Sound. Milford orviceversa,including alongtheSouth Christchurch Total New Zealand Experience Total New Zealand Trail Blazer Pathfinder passes: can topupthepass ifyouneed more time. becomes cheaper themore hours youbuy.You 60 hours ($585)–theaverage costof each block mum of 15hours ($164)up toamaximumof five-hour blocksof travel time,fromamini- ture without penalty.Thepass in ispurchased change bookingsuptotwohours before depar- can get onandoffwherever youlike andcan in anydirection) ontheInterCity network;you The appropriately named five/10/15 travel days. Coastal one trainjourney(choosefromthe Travelpass the passcosts$399/619/871forfive/10/15 travel days. islander ferry orviceversa); crossing(Wellington–Picton Travelpass travel, andare validfor a year. if desired. Passes are for‘days’of purchased travel withaferry crossing,plustraintravel ( InterCity’s pan-NZ‘multitransport’ NATIONWIDE PASSES dependingontheagent). sector, charge may beanadditionalreservation ($3per 15% discountforYHA andVIPmembers; there thatcoverbuses much of thecountry).There’s a theconvenient (ratherthan,say, shuttle buses you go,buttheylockintousingInterCity of canbecheaper ground,passes thanpayingas Ifyou’reSouth Islandsseparately. covering alot ering eitherthewholecountry,orNorthand 03-471 7143;www.intercity.co.nz) 03-3651113,inDunedin Wellington 04-3850520,inChristchurch InterCity InterCity BusPasses Connexions Wanaka The kitchen sinkofcoach The kitchen passes. starts/finishes atAuckland,viaaSouthIsland starts/finishes circuit. town, Christchurch, Invercargill town, Christchurch, and Dunedin. Queens- LinksWanaka, www.wanakaconnexions.co.nz) % More structured dual-islandInterCity 0800 339966;www.travelpass.co.nz) or Overlander ( %
(adult/child$565/379)FromAuckland to 3-in-One 2-in-One (adult/child $585/392) Describing aloopthat (adult/child$585/392) Describing 09-623 1503 ); thepasscosts$504/757/931for As aboveforbusandferry, plus InterCity bustravel,plusoneInter- ( isvalidforoneyearandal- %
( % 0800 244844,03-4439122; offers cov- buspasses, in Auckland 09-623 1503, in in Auckland 09-6231503,in Flexi-Pass TranzAlpine (adult/child $729/488) combinesbus (
% , Tranz- Travelpass 0800 222 0800 222 715
TRANSPORT TRANSPORT land toWellingtonviatheCentralPlateau and Taupo. Ws Coast. West Soundandthe to Greymouth viaQueenstown, Milford holiday parks tomotels and B&Bs). guides toaccommodation (from and detailed excellenttouring maps breakdown services, 0800 500222;www.aa.co.nz) NZ’s Automobile Association(AA) buying yourownset of wheels. not hardtotrackdown;alternatively, consider Good-value car- rates are andcampervan-hire to create yourownleisurely, flexibleitinerary. have yourowntransport,which allows you The bestwaytoexplore NZindepthisto CAR &MOTORCYCLE advance. in generally available online,booked afew weeks (online orviaanagent). Thebestpricesare availability andhowthetickets are booked ahead justto be safe. a particularbus,bookatleastdayortwo if yourlong-term travel plansrely oncatching but problems accessingyourpreferred service, routes. Atother timesyoushould have few holidays, bookwellaheadonmore popular summer,school holidaysand publicOver Reservations smoking is onNZbuses; classes a no-no. There are noallocated economyorluxury Seat Classes Southern Discovery BoundAdventurer Milford West CoastPassport InterCity SouthIslandpasses: SOUTH ISLANDPASSES Pacific CoastHwyPass IslandValue Pass North Top HalfPass Bay ofIslandsPass There are fourInterCity NorthIsland passes: NORTH ISLANDPASSES 716 Es Coast. East land toWellingtonviatheCoromandelPeninsula andthe Christchurch to Queenstown plus Milford Soundand toQueenstownplusMilford Christchurch Mt Cook. Auckland, Whangarei and Kerikeri. ($145/97) andex-Greymouth ($125/84). Queenstown viatheWestCoast;alsoavailableex-Nelson land toKerikeri and back. InterCity fares varywidelydependingon ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING Automobile Association Automobile (adult/child$145/97)Rotorua,Hamilton, (adult/child$105/70)FromAuck- (adult/child $355/238) Christchurch (adult/child$355/238)Christchurch (adult/child $169/113) Picton to (adult/child$169/113)Picton (adult/child$209/140)Auck- (adult/child$156/105)Auck- (adult/child $235/157) (adult/child$235/157) provides emergency (AA;
% 24hr roadservice
.keacampers.com/newzealand) Hire fuel atTwizelor Tekapo).Lake Sound (fillupatTe Anau)andMtCook(buy them –placesinthiscategory includeMilford you’re better getting off fuelbefore youreach charge and asmallfortunetofillyourtank around $1.50.More remote destinations may cheaply inNZ,withper-litre costsaveraging but basicallypetrol(gasoline)isn’tpumped fuel capability.Pricesvaryfromplacetoplace, pliers; ifyou’re ongasit’ssafer tohave dual LPG (gas)isnotalwaysstocked byruralsup- the well-knowninternational brandnames. with stations Fuel isavailable fromservice Fuel association. automobile (valid for12months) byyourhomecountry’s which willusuallybeissued onthespot anInternational DrivingPermituse (IDP), a certifiedtranslationwithyou.Alternatively, cence isn’tinEnglish, it’sagoodideatocarry home country’s driving licence–ifyourli- International visitors their toNZcanuse Driving Licence ments with NZ’s AA. many of bodieshave these reciprocal agree- tions should bringtheirmembership cards– Maui Campers Kea Britz and lengthof rental. Major operators: tobe, how bigyouwantyourhome-on-wheels companies, pricesvaryingwithtime of year, isolation. in a remote beach/mountain/valley anddream out or youcanseek around $30pernight, parkwithpowered sites for or campervan towns of anysizehave acampingground crank uptheAC/DC asloudhell!Most leave thetrampledtouristtrailsbehind and andyoucanness. It’sflexibleandaffordable, behind you. bikes barbecuescruisingalong andportable RV) packed withliberated travellers, mountain (akamobile home,motor campervan ashinywhiteNZ roadandyou’lllikely see Check yourrear-view mirroronanyfar-flung CAMPERVAN You can hire campervans fromassorted You canhire campervans aroundNZisbigbusi- Campervanning Members of foreign automobileassocia- ( ( % % 0800 831900,09-2759090; www.britz.co.nz) 0800 651080, 09-2753013;www.maui.co.nz) ( % 0800 520052,09-4417833; www lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Thrifty Hertz Europcar Budget Avis larger airports: fices oragents inmostmajor cities,townsand to beatleast21years old– ask around. Some (butnotall)companiesrequire drivers to travel unlimited far,youneed kilometres. –ifyouwant youroptions isdistance sessing Picton. Themainthingtoremember whenas- in Auckland,Christchurch, Wellingtonand rental ismostcompetitiveshop around).Car of discounted rates aslow$19perday,so lots of specialdealscomeandgo(we’ve heard in NZistorrid–rates tend tobevariable and Competition car-rentalbetween companies often even infighting sees lower rates. to aslow$60/100/120inwinter; industry are around $200/300/340perday,dropping rental firmsfortwo-/four-/six-berth vans atoilet usually contain and shower. and,besidestheextraspace, similarly sluggish) are thesizeof trucks (and berth campervans vans includeshower andtoilet.Four- tosix- is done’n’dusted. Larger ‘superior’two-berth transforming intoadoublebedwhendinner kitchen thelatter andfold-outdiningtable, A smallvanfortwopeopletypicallyhasamini- car.co.nz) CAR CAR Over summer,rates offeredOver bythemain Sizable multinationalcompanies,with of-
May toSeptember; from$70perdayDecembertoFebruary). Checkoutthefollowing: 24-hour roadsideassistance,andmapstravel tips. Rates are competitive (from$29perday more traditionalbox-on-wheels). Allcompaniesoffer equipment, living,sleepingandcooking vehicles whowouldshunthelarger,kitted-out young,independenttravellers toattract (thekind There are industry,offering several slickdealsandfunky,well- budgetplayersinthecampervan BACKPACKER VAN RENTALS (
% ( Wicked Campers Spaceships Jucy Escape Rentals Backpacker SleeperVans ent. DVDs, TVs andoutdoorbarbecuesavailableforrent. ent. DVDs,TVs onvanexteriors, pitchedsquarelyoriginal atyoung travellers artwork after somethingdiffer- campervans’, with extras includingDVDandCDplayers,roofrackssolarshowers. withextras campervans’, run business. everything/everyone fromMrSpocktoSlyStone. ( % ( % % 0800 655111,09-5262800;www.avis.co.nz) ( % 0800 654321, 03-5203044;www.hertz.co.nz) ( 0800 737070, 03-3592720; www.thrifty.co.nz) 0800 283438,09-5297784; www.budget.co.nz) % 0800 800115,03-3570920; www.europ 0800 399736,09-3744360;www.jucy.co.nz) GETTING AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING ( % ( 0800 772237,09-3098777;www.spaceships.tv) % ( % 0800 216171;www.escaperentals.co.nz) 0800 246870;www.wickedcampers.co.nz)
( % 0800 325 939, 03-359 4731; www.sleepervans.co.nz) 0800 325939,03-3594731;www.sleepervans.co.nz) The vehicle flashpacker’s ofchoice. .acerentalcars.co.nz) www.rentalcars.co.nz) .apexrentals.co.nz) www.omegarentalcars.com) Das respectively). Deals’ on their websites, under‘Deals’and ‘Hot Thrifty sometimes listrelocation specials offer anamazingone-waydeal(Budget and to get avehicle backtoAuckland andwill hand, anoperatorinChristchurch mayneed and WellingtonorChristchurch. Ontheother more, fees are often waived Auckland between forrentalsapply. However, of amonthor feestrictions, andaone-waydrop-off may Christchurch), butthere are avarietyof re- als (egcollectacarinAuckland,leave itin The bigfirmssometimesoffer one-wayrent- Cars Pegasus Rental Cars Omega Rental Ezy Rentals Apex Ace national networks: renters. for times comeslessprotective legalstructure are often older,andwithlessformalitysome- restrictions,may comewithserious vehicles sometimes halftheprice–butcheap rates almost alwayscheaper thanthebigboys– the regional chapters are inthisguide. These cations alsodapplethe Local rental firmsandwithlimited lo- .ezy.co.nz) Affordable, independentoperators withAffordable,
Rental Cars Rental
Rentals ‘The freedom tosleeparound’–loud, The customised‘SwissArmyKnife of Spray-painted with vansbedecked ( % ( % ( 0800 399736,09-3744360; www % 0800 939597,03-3796897; www ( ( % 0800 502277,09-3033112; www % 0800 525210,09-3775573; 0800 803580,03-5482852; Yellow Pages Low-cost family- – see –see
717 TRANSPORT TRANSPORT to $375 per day. Rates vary withsizeofto $375perday.Rates bike, Suzuki, touringandendurobikes from$90 crossed thestrait.Thissavescrossed youpayingto minal andpickupanothercaronceyou’ve your carateitherWellingtonorPictonter- on theCookStraitferries. Instead, youleave you don’ttake theirvehicles islands between shops are inAucklandandChristchurch, (minor collisions are commonin NZ),you amount of cashif you dohave anaccident thanrisk payingoutalarge accident. Rather exactly whatyour liability of isintheevent an When itcomes torenting avehicle, know tours. guided can alsoarrange fullybooked, or customised summer rental at$375perday.Thecompany Davidson Softtail topsthelistforashort-term length of rental andtimeof year. AHarley .nzbike.com) 03-3481106;www Auckland 09-3607940,inChristchurch cycle and beyond. town, toathrobbing750cctouringmotor- moped (akanifty-fifty) forzippingaround where youcanhire anythingfromalittle50cc vehicle). motor (a customsdocumentthatidentifiesyour dePassagesorigin andaCarnet enDouanes exercise, validregistration inthecountryof anexpensivethat thiswillentail shipping your ownmotorcycleintoNZ,beaware in someregions. Ifyou’re tempted tobring torcycle touring,despite thefickleweather Born tobewild?NZhasgreat terrain formo- MOTORCYCLE method. payment weekend discounts.Credit cardsare theusual or more andthere are often and low-season It’s obviously cheaper ifyourent foraweek at around$40perdayforthesmallestoption. kilometres andinsurance).Localfirmsstart medium-sized cars (includingGST, unlimited late-model, Japanese car,andaround$85for ataround$65perdayforacompact, start kilometre. Dailyrates inmaincitiestypically per dayfree plussomanycentspersubsequent ther unlimited kilometres, or100km(orso) exercise. pain-free transport avehicle ontheferries, andisa 718 Insurance Most car-hire firmssuggest (orinsist)that Most of thecountry’smotorcycle-hire New Zealand Motorcycle Rentals & Tours MotorcycleRentals New Zealand The major companiesoffer achoice of ei- ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING rents out Yamaha, BMW,Honda,
( % in down every down every five minutes. course, isthatyou’llbuyalemonbreaks it.Thedanger, ofyour moneywhenyousell and youshould beabletoget backmostof (or cheaper than)aone-ortwo-monthrental, NZ. Youcanoften pickupacarascheap as be oneof thecheapest andbestwaystosee itattheendofcar thenselling yourtravels can For longer and/orforgroups,buyinga stays Purchase p699. see Corporationscheme,Accident Compensation the fine print. roads–alwaysread (4WD)unsealed rough is often invalidated onbeaches andcertain windscreen) ortyres, andinsurancecoverage the costof damage toglass(including the taken asacredit-card bond,of around $900. often have acompulsoryinsuranceexcess, $200. Smalleroperators offering cheap rates around $1500or$2000to$150 ofpay intheevent anaccidentdownfrom This bringstheamountof excess you must for an‘insuranceexcessreduction’ policy. ditional dailyamounttotherental company ance policy,or(theusualoption)payanad- can take outyourowncomprehensive insur- 28 daysold whenyoubuy acar. Totransfer valid forsixmonths butmustbelessthan cate, proving thatthecarisroadworthy, is lasts forareasonable period.AWoFcertifi- of Fitness(WoF) andthattheregistration with 10 locations. .turners.co.nz) to $6000– can pickupcheap cars fromaround$1000 Christchurch ( p545 Atauctionsyou ) sections. on carmarkets intheAuckland( p131 ) and worth investigating –check outinformation road mapsandeven camping gear. come complete withwater containers, tools, vehicles these oftenexpire onyou.Besides, theriskthattheymay it maybeworthtaking lars. Somebackpackers specialsare socheap pick upanoldcarforjustafew hundred dol- ellers theircars sell before moving on;youcan boards of backpacker places,where othertrav- option foracheap caristoscourthe notice buy acar,followedbyChristchurch. Aneasy Car marketsCar andcarauctionsare also Auckland istheeasiestplacefortravellers to Most insuranceagreements won’tcover For informationonthecountry’sno-fault Make sure anycaryoubuyhasaWarrant isthecountry’slargest such outfit, Turners Auctions
( % lonelyplanet.com 09-580 9360;www 468 469;www.vinz.co.nz) if youbringthecar toanAA-approved me- cheaper –it’s slightly bile inspectionservice lonelyplanet.com garages willinspectacar for less. chanic. AAchecks are butmost thorough, Try the-spot inspections,ortheywillcome toyou. $130; you’llfindthematcarauctions foron- will check acaryouintend tobuyforlessthan later on.Various car-inspection companies and maysave you alotof griefandrepair bills (such scamshave reported been inthepast) as they’llprotect youagainstanydodgyWoFs ment –see Insurance, opposite . invest-accident thatisyourfault,alsoawise the costof repairs toanothervehicle inan year ($324).Third-partyinsurance,covering forsixmonthscan bepurchased ($236)ora registrationby mailwithin10days.Ifneeded, filed atanypostoffice. Papers are toyou sent a Change of Ownership form,which canbe days.Todoso,fillout ownership withinseven New Zealand required toindependentlynotify registration, are bothyou andtheseller legally NORTH ISLANDROADDISTANCES(KM) Car inspectionsare recommendedCar highly Vehicle Inspection NewZealand Vehicle Inspection Thames Palmerston North Paihia New Plymouth Dargaville Whangarei Whakatane Waitomo Caves Tauranga Taupo Rotorua Napier Kaitaia Hicks Bay Hamilton Gisborne Cape Reinga Wellington Wanganui
(www.ltsa.govt.nz) GETTING AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING 421 325 513 127 511 185 440 170 301 666 454 198 115 210 280 235 531 241 371 . TheAAalsooffers amo- Auckland 1105 861 114 946 566 943 285 270 740 893 640 555 645 720 672 969 220 789 Cape Reinga 487 845 640 390 300 390 466 420 541 130 554 606 169 691 312 690 58 of thechange of Dargaville 668 206 534 466 437 413 300 333 292 390 750 585 215 831 180 399 Gisborne
(VINZ; (VINZ; Land Transport Land Transport 295 195 521 329 106 108 153 109 402 368 242 252 450 400 Hamilton 75 678 204 720 644 441 416 302 373 290 574 748 590 395 833 % Hicks Bay 0800 154 630 970 780 526 440 537 604 560 853 109 699 748 Kaitaia 597 315 319 250 307 349 300 147 229 176 664 413 Napier www.lemoncheck.co.nz) into abuy-back arrangement with acaror a vehicleing andselling privately isto enter One wayof getting around thehasslesof buy- BUY-BACK DEALS highway… the it: justget yourmotorrunning, head outon itagainafterwards, butdon’tsweatto sell drawback of buyingabike isthat you’ll have Theobvious sified advertisement sections. newspapers andthelocalbike press have clas- quite looking. Regional agoodtimetostart feasible. Thebeginningof is winter (June) getting inNZisquite mobileontwowheels do have alittlebitof timeupyoursleeve, or licence-plate number. (VIN; foundonaplate neartheengineblock) done usingtheVehicle IdentificationNumber including theAA’s A numberof companiesoffer thisservice, debtsonit). question (eganyoutstanding if there’s anythingdodgyaboutthecarin the ownership of thevehicle, andfindout 526 354 356 163 183 348 306 300 299 236 597 New Plymouth If youdon’thave yourownmotorcyclebut toconfirm youbuyit’swise Before 550 898 706 443 356 447 520 475 779 Paihia 71 697 421 143 341 470 424 259 341 Palmerston North 74 406 460 307 166 167 Rotorua 86 83 82 450 168 378 225 166 211 165 Taupo . A search costs$25andis . Asearch 440 151 114 381 543 LemonCheck Tauranga 94 286 208 591 479 182 Thames 372 239 463 268 Waitomo Caves 625 358 193 (
% Wanganui 820 545 04-233 8590; Wellington 476
Whakatane 719 TRANSPORT TRANSPORT And watch out for sheep! roads. tious drivingapproach than forsealed roads toexplore, which require amore cau- of patience. There are alsolotsof gravel ordirt onuphillclimbs –packplenty or campervan easy toget stuckbehind aslow-moving truck isusuallypretty butit’s roads. Traffic light, go asfasttheylike, despite narrow,twisting a particularstretch of bitumensowelltheycan to back-roadtailgaters theyknow whobelieve mindpullingoverwho doesn’t to letyoupast, occurs onNZroads,fromtheno-fuss motorist The fullspectrumof drivers anddrivinghabits Road Hazards time) isusuallyamuch better idea. the vehicleselling (if youhave yourself the hiringorbuyingand a strictlyfinancialsense, price–in may be50%lessthanthepurchase registration. Thebuy-back amountvaries,but the WoFcertificate totransfer needed the repairs thatallegedly willberequired togain in writing),often bypointingoutexpensive return thevehicle ifitwasagreed (even to ways of knockingdowntheprice whenyou motorcycle dealer. dealers However, mayfind 720 SOUTH ISLANDROADDISTANCES(KM) Timaru Te Anau Queenstown Picton Oamaru Nelson Milford Sound Kaikoura Invercargill Hokitika Hanmer Springs Greymouth Franz JosefGlacier Dunedin Christchurch Blenheim Arthur's Pass Westport Wanaka ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING 466 510 493 331 330 640 408 666 214 212 434 271 667 215 744 550 518 449 530 Aoraki/Mt Cook 264 248 478 149 420 250 200 528 798 645 458 334 384 922 337 694 104 Arthur's Pass 99 1075 266 745 470 960 794 556 117 132 888 370 260 333 486 674 308 Blenheim 29 334 424 162 650 489 336 247 418 768 187 578 260 135 258 395 360 Christchurch 695 276 200 289 280 701 114 786 410 545 217 570 495 551 562 Dunedin 285 560 280 492 404 531 506 470 678 550 575 140 395 181 Franz Josef Glacier 102 469 352 732 583 360 448 290 860 338 769 214 Greymouth 41 218 560 300 785 620 300 380 305 910 133 714 256 Hanmer Springs 145 426 365 690 513 400 456 334 810 420 690 Kiwis drive ontheleft-handsideof theroadand Road Rules front and it’sthelawtowear them–you’re proaching theotherendof the bridge. acar ap- and pullalittleto thesideifyousee you pointing inyourdirection of travel meansthat surprisingly large number), asmallerred arrow are extensively.used cameras andradarsroad conditions.Speed orlousy mals ontheroad,excessive traffic, limited visibility,pedestrians,cyclistsorani- conditions are unsafe duetobadweather, conditions–thisapplieswhenin certain limit isreduced from100km/hto50km/h sign ontheopenroadmeansthatspeed ally 50km/h.An‘LSZ’(Limited Zone) Speed 100km/h; inbuilt-upareas thelimitisusu- street,same youhave togive way to it. an oncomingvehicle intothe isturningright strange extreme here –ifyou’re turningleftand ruleappliesandisinterpretedright’ toarather all cars are drive. right-hand A‘give waytothe Hokitika All newcars inNZhave belts backand seat limitsontheopenroadareSpeed generally At single-lanebridges (of which there are a 1018 869 285 417 158 190 918 330 280 767 give way,soslowdownasyouapproach Invercargill 340 612 351 840 676 160 436 250 960 Kaikoura 1121 1145 958 394 610 122 291 524 Milford Sound 1025 230 588 588 693 114 671 Nelson 580 234 410 321 583 Oamaru 85 292 774 499 988 822 Picton 659 119 336 168 Queenstown lonelyplanet.com 828 273 486 Te Anau 497 280 Timaru 592 Wanaka be belted intoanapproved safety seat. risking afineifyoudon’t.Smallchildren must lonelyplanet.com Shuttle Bus service and thehistorictramway. Shuttle Bus service andin ChristchurchCity Circuit buses, bythe in Aucklandismade easierbytheLinkand altogether. Negotiatingtheinner-city area canbehardtofindor maycease bus services ations; onweekends, particularlyonSunday, tions, theyare oper- mainlydaytime,weekday but,withafew honourableexcep- services citieshave Larger tised. fairlyextensive bus Most of have NZ’surbanbuses priva- been Bus, Train&Tram LOCAL TRANSPORT offering a lift. an excellentresource or forpeopleseeking dation. Thewebsite www.carshare.co.nz is notices onboardsinbackpacker accommo- car journeysaroundthecountryoften leave People lookingfortravelling companionsfor Ride-Shares adventures NZ. through (see p21 ), anentertainingaccountof hitching Bennett’s reading Joe thumb, get anideaof thechallenges aheadby as commonamongtravellers asit once was. car-rental rates meanthathitching arideisn’t extensivealthough busnetworksandcheap a thumbs-upordownward-pointed finger), by thesideof countryroads (signallingwith hitchhikers it’snotunusualtosee That said, someone knowwhere theyare planningtogo. ers willbesafer iftheytravel inpairs andlet risk.Prospectivepotentially serious hitch- understand thattheyare asmallbut taking whodecidetohitch shouldwomen). Those from theperilsof solohitching (especially for years suggest thatNZisnolonger immune a fewHowever, unsavoury incidentsinrecent world where Icanstillhitch aride,NZisit.’ logical tothink,‘Ifthere’s anywhere inthe Until quite recently itwasquite fairand HITCHING (www.ltsa.govt.nz/roadcode) of roadrulesonthe shops, oryoucancheck theonlinerundown cycles are available andbook- atAAoffices Versions applicabletobothcars andmotor- toknowaboutlifeall youneed ontheroad. New Zealand RoadCode, Before you start limberingupyourhitching youstart Before Drivers wanttobuyacopyof might the GETTING AROUND••Hitching GETTING Land Transport New Zealand NewZealand Land Transport website. A Landof TwoHalves which will tell you
.co.nz) Auckland andWellington;the ally stunningroutes: the Interislander ferries, see p715 . InterCity coaches, TranzScenic trainsand adult/child. per ferry costs $359/215 trip) lastingaweek WellingtonandPicton. Apass(with tween ing passage ontheInterislander ferry be- Connection (withtheexceptionof the services pass isn’tparticularly good value. Given NZ’slimited railnetwork,buyingatrain Train Passes Overlander Discountsdon’tapplyonthe cards (20%off). ers of YHA, VIPandNOMAD backpackers andhold- students(20% off), iors (30%off), for children fares), (50%offstandard sen- Ask aboutdiscountfares –reductions apply timetables. can alsopickupbookletsdetailing and visitorinformationcentres, where you tably Scenic directly, (no- oratmosttrainstations Wellington. and Palmerston between North commuter service operates the weekday All routes runinbothdirections daily.Italso ChristchurchAlps between andGreymouth. TranzAlpine, Christchurchbetween andPicton;the 0775; www.tranzscenic.co.nz) following). detailed tion of thesinglecommuter service not inordertoget anywhere (withtheexcep- In NZyoutravel onthe train forthejourney, TRAIN rank. taxi ally have toeitherphoneforoneorfinda and Christchurch, butelsewhere youusu- thebusyareascruise inAuckland,Wellington Taxissmall townsmayhave alocalservice. The maincitieshave plentyof andeven taxis Taxi Wellington, which hasfive suburban routes. boozy, nights. end-of-week roaming centralentertainment districtson Most maincitieshave busservice alate-night For details ofFor details apasscombiningtravel on Tranz Scenic’s Tranz canbemadethrough Reservations is The onlycitywithadecenttrainservice allows unlimited travel onallof itsrail not atPalmerston North),travel agents service. ), withtheoptionof includ- Tranz Scenic which rattlesover theSouthern Scenic Rail Pass Scenic Rail operates several visu- operates several
( Capital Connection Overlander % 0800 872467,04-495 TranzCoastal (www.tranzscenic between between Capital 721
TRANSPORT HEALTH © LonelyPlanetPublications seas, youshould thinkabout getting extraseas, incurredyou for medical expenses over- If yourcurrent health coverinsurance doesn’t INSURANCE documenting theirmedicalnecessity. besureor needles, tohave aphysician’s letter names, isalsoagoodidea. Ifcarryingsyringes conditions andmedications,including generic from yourphysiciandescribing medical labelled containers. Asigned anddated letter good ideatocarryitwherever youtravel. yellow fever vaccinationuponentry,butit’sa is mandatoryforcountriesthatrequire proof of will listallthevaccinationsyou’ve received. This of Vaccination (or‘theyellowbooklet’),which Ask yourdoctorforanInternational Certificate before weeks physician fourtoeight departure. afteruntil atleasttwoweeks they’re given, visita Since mostvaccinesdon’tproduceimmunity BEFORE YOUGO and outintothebeautifulcountryside. a very safe region toget off thebeaten track snakes orotherdangerous animalsmakes this yet toberecorded. of Theabsence poisonous such asrabieshave someanimaldiseases even of, andthankstoNZ’squarantinestandards, sucheases asmalariaandtyphoidare unheard in theworldwhich totravel. Theriskof dis- isoneof thehealthiestcountries New Zealand CONTENTS h t l a e H 722 niomna aad 724 724 724 723 723 723 723 723 Environmental Hazards 722 Traveller’s Diarrhoea 723 Infectious Diseases 722 Availability &CostofHealthCare In NewZealand Jet Lag&MotionSickness 722 Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) In Transit Internet Resources Medical Checklist Recommended Vaccinations Insurance 722 Before YouGo Bring medicationsintheiroriginal, clearly Dr DavidMillar
MEDICAL CHECKLIST do occur. tion coverage, outbreaks of diseases these of levels NZ hashigh childhood vaccina- canbesevere andwhileof diseases these nation cover iscomplete. Theconsequences ideal timetoensure thatallroutinevacci- tination. Planningtotravel abroad isan well ashepatitisB,regardless of theirdes- mumps, rubella,chickenpox andpolio,as covered fordiphtheria,tetanus, measles, recommends thatalltravellers shouldbe traveller. TheWorldHealth Organization NZ hasnovaccinationrequirements forany RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS in cash.) (In manycountriesdoctors expectpayment later date foroverseas healthexpenditures. directly toproviders orreimburse youata if yourinsuranceplanwillmake payments for more information.Findoutinadvance insurance –check outwww.lonelyplanet.com
thermometer sun block steroid cream orcortisoneforpoisonivy scissors, safety pins,tweezers pocketknife sprayfor insect permethrin-containing oral rehydration salts orwateriodine tablets filter forwater DEET-containing repellent insect forthe bandages, gauze,gauzerolls anti-inflammatory drugs(egibuprofen) forhayfever andallergicantihistamines drugs(egloperamide) antidiarrhoeal antibiotics for antibacterial ointment(egBactroban) adhesive orpaper tape (Tylenol/ acetaminophen/paracetamol and otherallergic rashes clothing, tents andbednets purification skin reactions cuts andabrasions Panadol) oraspirin updated daily. recommendations countryandis forevery Planet For furtherinformationonhealth, health adviceavailable onthe internet. You’ll findthatthere’s awealthof travel INTERNET RESOURCES lonelyplanet.com people. ginger, which works like acharm forsome isdrowsiness. A herbalalternativeeffect is treating motionsickness.Their mainside Bonine) are usuallytheprefered choice for (Dramamine) andmeclizine(Antivert, etc)assoonpossible. sleep andreadjustlight yourschedule (formeals, your destination,get exposure tonaturalsun- meals. Uponarrivalat fluids andeatinglight of jetlag,trydrinkingplentyof nonalcoholic Toavoid and/ornausea. theeffects malaise five timezones,resulting ininsomnia,fatigue, Jet lagiscommonwhencrossingmore than MOTION SICKNESS JET LAG& tobacco. drink plentyof fluidsandavoid alcohol and cles (ieflexthelegmuscleswhilesitting), cabin, performcompressions of thelegmus- youshould walkabouton longflights, the attention immediately. medical any of symptomsshould seek these breathing.pain anddifficulty Travellers with clot travels tothelungs,itmayresult inchest not always–onjustoneside. Whenablood pain of thefoot,ankleorcalf,usually–but VeinDeep isswellingor Thrombosis(DVT) the greater therisk.Thechief symptomof period of immobility.Thelonger theflight, of chieflyplane flights, because aprolonged Blood clotsmayforminthelegsduring THROMBOSIS (DVT) DEEP VEIN IN TRANSIT .com) interest is no cost.Anothergoodwebsite of general annuallyandisavailablerevised onlineat International Travel andHealth .int/ith/) The start. Antihistamines such asdimenhydrinateAntihistamines To prevent of the development DVT , which provides complete travel health (www.lonelyplanet.com) publishes anexcellentbookcalled World HealthOrganization MD Travel Health MD Travel INTRANSIT••DeepVein Thrombosis(DVT) isagoodplaceto (www.mdtravelhealth , which is
(www.who Lonely in popular trampingareas. visitor centres Department of Conservation remote areas, andcanusuallybehired from forcommunication equipment isimportant mobile-phone coverage, butadditionalradio means of communication–NZhasextensive really safe, ensure thatyouhave adequate appropriate fortheactivitiesplanned.Tobe carry acomprehensive first-aid kit thatis Medicine Institute). Inaddition,youshould (suchcourse astheonefromWilderness awilderness first-aid Considertaking sential. andpreparation of ises- level self-reliance the SouthIsland.Therefore, anincreased weather andrugged terrain, particularlyon getting toyou.Thisisusuallytheresult of a significantdelayinemergency services ous accidentorillness,there maywellbe mote location where, of intheevent aseri- inare-In NZitispossibletofindyourself Self-care inNewZealand 116) marine hazards. hazardssuch asheat,sunburn,coldandtal dren isrecommended toavoid environmen- exist forwomenbutgreater care forchil- major centres. Nospecifichealthconcerns facilities forwomenandchildren inthe www.acc .co.nz. www.moh.govt.nzFor more see details and NZ willonlybecovered bytravel insurance. ment of amedicalillnessthatoccurs whilein Corporation (ACC). Costsincurred bytreat- accidents) bytheAccidentCompensation motor vehicle accidents,adventure activity from accidentsthatoccurwhileinNZ(eg coveredhowever, formedicalcare resulting system of Alltravellers publichospitals. are, nothaveNZ does agovernment-funded Health CareinNewZealand See opposite forinsuranceinformation. and repatriation canbeextremely expensive. considerable costscanbebuiltup standards, and notoverly expensive byinternational While healthcare inNZisof standard ahigh Health foralltravellers. insuranceisessential HEALTH CARE AVAILABILITY &COSTOF IN NEWZEALAND The 24-hour,free-call publichealthNZ hasexcellentspecialised offers NZ. healthadvicethroughout Healthline (
% 0800 611
723 HEALTH HEALTH syringes are widelyavailable. to otherWestern and countries. Clean needles major are mediacampaigns,andlevels similar The country’sHIV rates after have stabilised HIV fullyscreen allbloodbefore use. services intravenous Blood-transfusion drugusers. isagrowingproblem among This disease Hepatitis C nidazole ormetronidazole). and wind.Effective treatment isavailable (ti- abdominalbloating bad-smelling diarrhoea, Symptomsconsistofdisease. intermittent iodine are effective waysof preventing the water filters andboilingortreating water with streams and lakes isnotrecommended. Using terways of NZ.Drinkinguntreated water from The giardiaparasite iswidespread inthewa- Giardiasis and forappropriate treatment. of fromothercauses meningitis ate thedisease Urgent medicalcare todifferenti- isessential includeheadache, fever andvomiting. disease mal poolandearlysymptomsof thisserious daysafter swimminginageother-to seven three with).Symptomsusuallystart to start passage reduces therisk(which ispretty low vent movement of theorganism upthenasal pools, keeping theheadabove water topre- regions such asRotoruaandTaupo. Insuch ming ingeothermal poolsinNZ–mostly meningitis asaresult of bathingorswim- There isasmallriskof amoebic developing Amoebic Meningitis INFECTIOUS DISEASES region are available. majority of outsideof medicationsinuse the countries.The between as brandnamesdiffer ensure you have of details thegeneric name, regular basis,bringanadequate supplyand all antibiotics.Ifyoutake amedicationon tive pill,mostmedicationsforasthmaand practitioner. includetheoralcontracep- These able byaprescription fromageneral obtained the counter inothercountriesare onlyavail- allergies, andskincare products. includepainkillers, for antihistamines These available private chemists. inNZthrough Over-the-counter medicationsare widely Pharmaceutical Supplies 724 Some medicationsthatare available over IN NEW ZEALAND •• Infectious Diseases ••Infectious IN NEWZEALAND seek medicalattention. seek ing chills or severe abdominalpain you should hours and/orisaccompaniedbyfever, shak- isbloody,persistsdiarrhoea formore than 72 agentantidiarrhoeal (such asloperamide).If tibiotic (usuallyaquinolonedrug)andan anan- taking stools aday,youshould start havingif youstart more thanfourorfive few stoolsdon’trequire loose treatment but lotsof andsugar.solution containing salt A plenty of fluids,preferably anoralrehydration besure diarrhoea, If youdevelop todrink TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA hospitals. healthclinicsareSexual runaspartof major any unprotected withanewpartner. sex medicalscreening after symptoms, soseek discharge. Infection canbepresent without symptoms are painonpassingurineanda most Western countries.Themostcommon dia andherpes)occuratrates similarto In NZSTDs chlamy- (includinggonorrhoea, Diseases (STDs) Sexually Transmitted (meningococcal A,C,YandW). vaccine existsforsometypesof thedisease longed dormitory-styleaccommodation.A This occurs worldwideandisariskwithpro- Meningococcal Disease above measures. requiring inadditionto the rapidevacuation actually stops;this isamedicalemergency perature. Insevere hypothermia, shivering allow shivering tobuildtheinternal tem- providing fuel(water andcarbohydrate) to water-proof layers, addinginsulationand clothing, addingdryclotheswithwind- and changingloss isminimised, outof anywet changing theenvironment toonewhere heat stumbles). Thekey elementsof treatment are of the‘umbles’(fumbles,mumbles,grumbles, doing upbuttons),shivering andabadcase inability toperformfinemovements (such as cool temperatures. signsincludethe Early result inmoderately inhypothermia,even chillwinds produceahigh factorwhich can rangesSouth Island.Mountain and/orstrong ofmountains theNorth Islandandallof the the winter months oryear-round inthe This isasignificantrisk,especiallyduring Hypothermia ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS lonelyplanet.com common). White-tailed spiderbitescommon). White-tailed have been (thanks, Australia)white-tailed spider(alsoun- point of beingendangered) andtheintroduced (not very poisonousanduncommontothe NZ hastwopoisonousspiders, thenative katipo Spider Bites lonelyplanet.com 10am and4pm–avoid skinexposure during sure UVexposure closely. isgreatest between in theworld,soyoushould monitorUVexpo- NZ hasoneof rates of thehighest skincancer Ultraviolet LightExposure andexpertise. own limitations before entering the surfandbeaware of your Check withlocalsurflife-saving organisations atmanybeaches. the varyingslopeof theseabed The powerof thesurfcanfluctuate asaresult of on thewestern, southernandeastern coasts. NZ hasexceptionalsurfbeaches, particularly Surf Beaches&Drowning ifanulcerdevelops. medical assistance andseek heal. Cleanthewoundthoroughly ulcersknown tocause thatare to very difficult IN NEW ZEALAND ••EnvironmentalHazards INNEWZEALAND that toomuch iodinecanbeharmful. Follow thedirections carefully andremember Iodine ismore effective inpurifyingwater. not parasites cysts. such asgiardiaoramoebic willkillmanypathogens,Chlorine tablets but boil water itshould betreated chemically. all dangerous organisms, soifyoucannot Simplefiltering willnotremoveit doesn’t. actly whatitremoves fromthewater andwhat to read thespecificationssothatyouknowex- filter. It’svery whenbuyingafilter important You should alsoconsiderpurchasing awater of purifyingwater istoboilitthoroughly. Thesimplestway when trampingessential. makingwater diarrhoea, purification cause areever, bybugsthat beingcontaminated numbers of streams, rivers andlakes, how- Tap water isuniversally safe inNZ.Increasing Water sundamage.minimise exposure andthatyoureapply regularly to making sure youapplyit30minutes before SPF30+sunscreen, times.Alwaysuse these
725 HEALTH © Lonely Planet Publications 726 lonelyplanet.com LANGUAGE •• Maori Geographical Terms 727
MAORI GEOGRAPHICAL TERMS Language The following words form part of many place names in NZ: a – of pouri – sad, dark, gloomy ana – cave New Zealand has two official languages: Eng- even though over 7000km separates Hono- puke – hill CONTENTS ara – way, path, road puna – spring, hole, fountain lish and Maori. English is the language you’ll lulu and Auckland. awa – river or valley rangi – sky, heavens usually hear spoken, but Maori, long on the The Maori language was never dead – it heke – descend raro – north decline, is making a comeback. You can use was always used in Maori ceremonies – but hiku – end, tail rei – cherished possession English to speak to anyone in NZ – all Maori over time familiarity with it was definitely hine – girl, daughter roa – long people speak English. There are some occa- on the decline. Fortunately, recent years ika – fish roto – lake sions, though, when knowing a little Maori is have seen a revival of interest in it, and this iti – small rua – hole in the ground; two useful, such as when visiting a marae, where forms an integral part of the renaissance of kahurangi – treasured possession; special greenstone runga – above often only Maori is spoken. Maori is also Maoritanga (Maori culture). Many Maori kai – food tahuna – beach, sandbank useful to know since many places in NZ have people who had heard the language spoken kainga – village tane – man Maori names. on the marae for years but had not used it kaka – parrot tangata – people in their day-to-day lives are now studying kare – rippling tapu – sacred, forbidden, taboo it and speaking it fluently. Maori is now kati – shut or close tata – close to; dash against; twin islands KIWI ENGLISH koura – crayfish taught in schools throughout NZ, some TV tawaha – entrance, opening Like the people of other countries in the makariri – cold tawahi – the other side (of a river or lake) world who speak English, New Zealanders programs and news reports are broadcast in manga – stream or tributary te – the (singular) have a unique way of speaking the language. it and many English place names are being manu – bird The flattening (some would call it slaugh- renamed in Maori. Even government depart- maunga – mountain tonga – south tering) of vowels is the most distinctive ments have been rechristened with Maori moana – sea or lake ure – male genitals feature of Kiwi pronunciation. The NZ names: for example the Inland Revenue De- moko – tattoo uru – west treatment of ‘fish and chips’ – ‘fush and partment is also known as Te Tari Taake motu – island wahine – woman chups’ – is an endless source of delight for (the last word is actually take, which means mutu – finished, ended, over wai – water Australians. In the North Island sentences ‘levy’, but the department has chosen to nga – the (plural) waingaro – lost; waters that disappear in certain seasons waha – broken often have ‘eh!’ attached to the end. In the stress the long ‘a’ by spelling it ‘aa’). noa – ordinary; not tapu waka – canoe In many places, Maori people have come nui – big, great far south a rolled ‘r’ is practised widely, a wera – burnt or warm; floating holdover from that region’s Scottish heri- together to provide instruction in their lan- nuku – distance o – of, place of ... wero – challenge tage – it’s especially noticeable in Southland. guage and culture to young children; the whaka... – to act as ... idea is for them to grow up speaking both one – beach, sand or mud See the Glossary on p729 for an explanation pa – fortified village whanau – extended family of Kiwi English words and phrases. Maori and English, and to develop a famil- papa – flat land, broad slab whanga – harbour, bay or inlet A Personal Kiwi-Yankee Dictionary by Louis iarity with Maori tradition. It’s a matter of pipi – shellfish whare – house S Leland Jr is an often hilarious book of some pride to have fluency in the language. pohatu – stone whenua – land or country LANGUAGE translations and explains some of the quirks On some marae only Maori can be spoken, poto – short whiti – east that distinguish Kiwi and American ways of which encourages everyone to speak it and speaking English. Yanks will love it. emphasises the distinct Maori character of Knowledge of just a few such words can help you make sense of many Maori place names. For example: Waikaremoana is the Sea (moana) of Rippling (kare) Waters (wai); Rotorua means the LANGUAGE the sacred sites. MAORI Second (rua) Lake (roto); and Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateaturipukakapikimaunga- The Maori have a vividly chronicled his- Pronunciation horonukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu means... well, perhaps you’d better read The Longest Place tory, recorded in songs and chants which Maori is a fluid, poetic language and sur- Name in the World in the East Coast chapter (p396) for that translation. Some easier place names dramatically recall the migration to NZ prisingly easy to pronounce once you re- composed of words in this list: from Polynesian Hawaiki and other impor- member to split each word (some can be tant events. Early missionaries were the first amazingly long) into separate syllables. Aramoana – Sea (moana) Path (ara) Te Puke – The (te) Hill (puke) to record the language in a written form, Most consonants in Maori – h, k, m, n, p, Awaroa – Long (roa) River (awa) Urewera – Burnt (wera) Penis (ure) Kaitangata – Eat (kai) People (tangata) Waimakariri – Cold (makariri) Water (wai) and achieved this with only 15 letters of the t and w – are pronounced much the same Maunganui – Great (nui) Mountain (maunga) Wainui – Great (nui) Waters (wai) English alphabet. as in English. The Maori r is a flapped Opouri – Place of (o) Sadness (pouri) Whakatane – To Act (whaka) as a Man (tane) Maori is closely related to other Polyne- sound (not rolled) with the tongue near the Te Araroa – The (te) Long (roa) Path (ara) Whangarei – Cherished (rei) Harbour (whanga) sian languages (including Hawaiian, Tahi- front of the mouth. It’s closer to the English tian and Cook Islands Maori). In fact, NZ ‘l’ in pronunciation. (Note that the adjective comes after the noun in Maori constructions. Thus ‘cold water’ is wai Maori and Hawaiian have the same degree The two combinations of consonants ng makariri not makariri wai.) of lexical similarity as Spanish and French, and wh require special attention. The ng is 728 LANGUAGE •• Maori lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com LANGUAGE 729
pronounced as in the English words ‘singing’ Each syllable ends in a vowel and there is or ‘running’, and can be used at the begin- never more than one vowel in a syllable. ning of words as well as at the end. To prac- There are no silent letters. tise, just say ‘ing’ over and over, isolate the There are many Maori phrasebooks, ‘ng’ part of it and then practise using it at the grammar books and Maori–English diction- beginning of a word rather than at the end. aries if you want to take a closer look at the The wh also has a unique pronunciation language. Learning a few basic greetings is in Maori – generally as a soft English ‘f’. an excellent thing to do, especially if you This pronunciation is used in many place plan to go onto a marae, where you’ll be names in NZ, such as Whakatane, Whan- greeted in Maori. garoa and Whakapapa (all pronounced as The Collins Maori Phrase Book by Patricia if they begin with a soft ‘f’). There is some Tauroa is an ideal book for starting to speak local variation, however: in the region the language, with sections on every-day around the Whanganui River, for example, conversation and using the language in a the wh is pronounced as in the English cultural context (such as on a marae). Lonely words ‘when’ and ‘why’. Planet’s South Pacific Phrasebook has a sec- When learning to speak Maori the cor- tion on the Maori language and several other rect pronunciation of the vowels is very Pacific languages (Tongan, Samoan, Cook important. The examples below are only a Island Maori) that you may hear spoken rough guideline – to really get it right you’ll around Wellington or South Auckland. have to listen carefully to someone who Other English–Maori dictionaries include knows how to pronounce the language cor- the English–Maori Maori–English Dictionary rectly. Each vowel has both a long and a by Bruce Biggs, and the Reed Dictionary of short sound with long vowels often denoted Modern Maori by PM Ryan, which is one of in text by a macron (a line over the letter) the most authoritative. or a double vowel. We have not indicated long/short vowel forms in this book. Greetings & Small Talk Maori greetings are finding increased popu- VOWELS larity; don’t be surprised if you’re greeted a as in ‘large’, with no ‘r’ sound with Kia ora. Try these: e as in ‘get’ i as in ‘marine’ Haere mai! Welcome! o as in ‘pork’ Kia ora. Hello/Good luck/ u as the ‘oo’ in ‘moon’ Good health. Tena koe. Hello. (to one person) DIPHTHONGS Tena korua. Hello. (to two people) LANGUAGE ae, ai as the ‘y’ in ‘sky’ Tena koutou. Hello. (to three or ao, au as the ‘ow’ in ‘how’ more people) ea as in ‘bear’ E noho ra. Goodbye. (to person
LANGUAGE ei as in ‘vein’ staying) eo as ‘eh-oh’ Haere ra. Goodbye. (to person eu as ‘eh-oo’ going) ia as in the name ‘Ian’ ie as the ‘ye’ in ‘yet’ Kei te pehea koe? io as the ‘ye o’ in ‘ye old’ How are you? (to one person) iu as the ‘ue’ in ‘cue’ Kei te pehea korua? oa as in ‘roar’ How are you? (to two people) oe as in ‘toe’ Kei te pehea koutou? oi as in ‘toil’ How are you? (to three or more) ou as the ‘ow’ in ‘sow’ Kei te pai. ua as the ‘ewe’ in ‘fewer’ Very well, thanks/That’s fine. © Lonely Planet Publications 728 GLOSSARY 729 Glossary
This glossary is a list of abbreviations, ‘Kiwi BYO – ‘bring your own’ (usually applies to alcohol at a English’, Maori and slang terms and phrases restaurant or café) you may come across in New Zealand. Also BYOW – ‘bring your own wine’, implying you can’t bring see the Maori Geographical Terms boxed beer or any other alcoholic beverages text (p727) in the Language chapter for Maori words that pop up again and again cervena – farmed deer in NZ place names. chardy – Chardonnay chillie bin – cooler; esky; large insulated box for keeping AA – New Zealand’s Automobile Association, which food and drink cold provides road information and roadside assistance choice/chur – fantastic; great across the ditch – referring to Australia, across the ciggies – cigarettes Tasman Sea crib – the name for a bach in Otago and Southland afghan – popular homemade chocolate biscuit (origin of cuzzie, cuz – cousin; relative or mate, most often used by recipe unknown, but unlikely to be Afghanistan) Maori to refer to fellow Maori; see also bro All Blacks – NZ’s revered national rugby union team cuzzie bro – an emphasised version of both cuzzie and (the name comes from ‘All Backs’, which is what the press bro called the NZ rugby team on an early visit to England); this moniker has started a trend for many national sporting dairy – small corner store that sells milk, bread, newspa- teams to be similarly nicknamed (including the Tall Blacks pers, ice cream and pretty much everything else for the basketball team, the Black Caps for the cricket team daggy – uncool; from the dags that hang off sheep’s and, briefly before being dropped, the Black Cocks for the bottoms badminton team!) DB&B – ‘dinner, bed and breakfast’ accommodation ANZAC – Australia and New Zealand Army Corps DOC – Department of Conservation (or Te Papa Atawhai); Aoraki – Maori name for Mt Cook, meaning ‘Cloud Piercer’ government department which administers national parks Aotearoa – Maori name for NZ, most often translated as and thus all tracks and huts ‘Land of the Long White Cloud’ domain – open grassed area in a town or city, often the ariki – chief focus of civic amenities such as gardens, picnic areas and atua – spirits or gods bowling clubs (and sometimes camping grounds) awa – river Dorkland – derogatory reference to the big city dropkick – a certain method of kicking a rugby ball; a B&B – ‘bed and breakfast’ accommodation personal insult bach – holiday home, usually a wooden cottage (pro- nounced ‘batch’); see also crib eh – roughly translates as ‘don’t you agree?’ and is com- backpackers – independent travellers to NZ, often (but monly added to the end of many Kiwi sentences, usually not always) travelling the country on a budget; the term followed by bro (as in ‘Choice jandals, eh bro?’) also refers to hostels, the accommodation catering to these travellers farmstay – accommodation on a Kiwi farm where you’re Barrier, the – local name for Great Barrier Island in the encouraged to join in the typical day-to-day activities Hauraki Gulf football – rugby, either union or league; occasionally soccer BBH – Budget Backpacker Hostels; a popular hostelry freezing works – slaughterhouse or abattoir for sheep affiliation and/or cattle Beehive – Parliament House in Wellington, so-called because of its distinctive shape Godzone – New Zealand (from Richard Seddon who black-water rafting – rafting or tubing underground referred to NZ as ‘God’s own country’) GLOSSARY in a cave or tomo good as gold, good as – very good; no problem blo-karting – sand sailing Great Walks – a set of nine popular tramping tracks bogan – see Westie within NZ
GLOSSARY boozer – public bar greenstone – jade; pounamu bro – literally ‘brother’; usually meaning mate, as in ‘just gumboots – rubber boots or Wellingtons; originated off to see the bros’ from diggers on the gum-fields 730 GLOSSARY GLOSSARY 731
haka – any dance, but usually refers to the traditional kauri – native pine motorway – freeway or expressway Rakiura – literally ‘Land of Glowing Skies’; Maori name challenge; war dance kina – sea urchins, a Maori delicacy marnis – something or someone shameful for Stewart Island, which is important in Maori mythology hakari – feast Kiwi – A New Zealander; an adjective to mean anything munter – see Westie as the anchor of Maui’s canoe handle – beer glass with a handle relating to NZ rap jump – face-down abseil hangi – oven made by digging a hole and steaming food kiwi – the flightless, nocturnal brown bird with a long naiad – rigid-hull inflatable boat (used for dolphin swim- ‘rattle your dags’ – move quickly; from the dags which in baskets over embers in the hole; a feast of Maori food beak that is the national symbol ming, whale-watching etc) hang off sheep’s bottoms hapu – subtribe or smaller tribal grouping kiwiana – the collective term for anything uniquely con- ‘Naki, the – Taranaki raupo – bulrush hard case – hilarious, unusual or strong-willed character nected to NZ life and culture, especially from years gone ‘Nesian – Pacific Islander; see also Islander, PI and Poly Remuera tractor – 4WD, after wealthy suburbanites Hawaiki – Polynesian homeland from where the Maori by, and likely to bring on waves of nostalgia in any expat nga – the (plural); see also te pointlessly driving them tribes migrated by canoe (probably Ra’iatea in the Society Kiwi (examples include the Buzzy Bee, hokey pokey, jandals ngai/ngati – literally, ‘the people of’ or ‘the descendants Rheiny – affectionate term for Rheineck beer Islands); also a name for the Afterworld and the pavlova) of’; tribe (on the South Island it’s pronounced ‘kai’) rigger – a refillable half-gallon plastic bottle for holding hei tiki – carved, stylised human figure worn around the kiwi fruit – small, succulent fruit with fuzzy brown skin and NZ – the universal term for New Zealand; pronounced draught beer neck representing the first human and supposed to bring juicy green flesh; a Chinese gooseberry; never called a kiwi ‘enzed’ rip – dangerously strong current running away from the good luck; also called a tiki koha – donation shore at a beach hikoi – march, walk, sometimes a protest march or kohanga reo – schools where Maori language and OE – Overseas Experience; a working holiday abroad, Roaring Forties – the ocean between 40° and 50° pilgrimage culture are at the forefront of the education process; also traditionally to the UK (the young Kiwi’s near-mandatory south, known for very strong winds hoa – friend; usually pronounced ‘e hoa’ called language nest schools ‘tour of duty’) Rotovegas – derogatory term relating to the touristy hokey pokey – delicious variety of vanilla ice cream with korero – to talk aspects of Rotorua butterscotch chips kumara – Polynesian sweet potato, a Maori staple food pa – fortified Maori village, usually on a hill top rumble – see scrap hoki – type of fish common in fish and chip shops kunekune – type of wild pig introduced by Chinese gold Pacific Rim – term used to describe modern NZ cuisine; homestay – accommodation in a family house where diggers in the 19th century cuisine with an innovative use of local produce, especially sav – sauvignon blanc you’re treated as one of the family Kupe – early Polynesian navigator from Hawaiki, credited seafood, with imported styles scrap – a fight hongi – Maori greeting; the pressing of noses and sharing with the discovery of the islands that are now NZ Pakeha – Maori for a white or European person section – small block of land of life breath pakihi – unproductive and often swampy land on the silver fern – the symbol worn by the All Blacks and other hui – gathering; meeting L&P – Lemon & Paeroa; lemon-flavoured fizzy drink South Island’s west coast; pronounced ‘par-kee’ national sportsfolk on their jerseys, representative of the laters – ‘see you later’ papa – large blue-grey mudstones; the word comes from underside of a ponga leaf; the national netball team are Interislander – large ferries crossing Cook Strait league – rugby league football the Maori for Earth Mother called the Silver Ferns between Wellington and Picton lounge bar – more upmarket bar than a public bar; parapenting – paragliding Steinie – affectionate term for Steinlager beer i-SITE – information centre called a ‘ladies’ bar’ in some countries Pasifika – Pacific Island culture superette – grocery store or small supermarket ‘Is it what!’ – strong affirmation or agreement; ‘Yes patch – gang logo worn on clothing sweet, sweet as – all-purpose term like choice: isn’t it!’ Mainlander – self-referential term for South Islander patu – flat war club made of wood, bone or greenstone fantastic, great Islander – Pacific Islander; see also ‘Nesian, PI and Poly mana – spiritual quality of a person or object; prestige; paua – abalone; tough shellfish pounded, minced, then iwi – large tribal grouping with common lineage back to authority of a chief or priest made into patties (fritters), which are available in almost taiaha – spear the original migration from Hawaiki; people; tribe manaia – traditional carving design; literally means every NZ fish and chip shop; the beautiful, iridescent paua tall poppy syndrome – NZ tradition of diminishing ‘bird-headed man’ shell is often used in decoration and jewellery successful people, as in ‘tall poppies get their heads JAFA – Just Another Fucking Aucklander ‘Mandel, the – the Coromandel Peninsula pavlova – meringue cake, usually topped with cream and chopped off’ jandals – a contraction of Japanese sandals; flip-flops; manuhiri – visitor; guest kiwi fruit; the quintessential Kiwi dessert Tamaki Makaurau – Maori name for Auckland thongs; usually rubber footwear Maori – indigenous people of NZ PI – Pacific Islander; see also Islander, Poly and ‘Nesian tane – man jersey – jumper, usually woollen; the shirt worn by rugby Maoritanga – Maori culture pig islander – derogatory term used by a person from tangata – people players marae – literally refers to the sacred ground in front of one island for someone from the other island tangata whenua – people of the land; local people jiff – short measurement of time (as in ‘I’ll be back in a the Maori meeting house, more commonly used to refer to pillocking – ‘surfing’ across mud flats on a rubbish-bin lid taniwha – awe-inspiring water spirit jiff’); see also two ticks the entire complex of buildings pipi – common edible bivalve taonga – something of great value; a treasure judder bars – bumps in the road to make you drive marakihau – sea monster piss – urine; urinate; alcohol, as in ‘get on the piss’ tapu – a strong force in Maori life, with numerous mean- slowly; speed humps Maui – a figure in Maori (Polynesian) mythology poi – ball of woven flax ings; in its simplest form it means sacred, forbidden, taboo maunga – mountain poi dance – women’s formation dance that involves sing- tatts – tattoos, often of a gang nature; as opposed to moko K Rd – Karangahape Rd in Auckland mauri – life force/principle ing and manipulating a poi tauihu – canoe prow ka kite (ano) – see you again; goodbye mere – a patu made of greenstone polly – politician te – the (singular); see also nga ka pai – good; excellent metal/metalled road – gravel (unsealed) road Poly – Pacific Islander; see also Islander, PI and ‘Nesian Te Kooti – East Coast Maori prophet and rebellion leader kai – food; almost any word with kai in it has a connec- MMP – Mixed Member Proportional; the electoral system pou – wooden post, sometimes carved Te Papa – literally ‘our place’, the national museum in GLOSSARY tion with food used in NZ and Germany; a form of proportional voting ponga – the silver fern; called a bungy (pronounced Wellington kainga – village; pre-European unfortified Maori village moa – large, extinct flightless bird ‘bungee’, with a soft ‘g’, in parts of the South Island) Te Papa Atawhai – Maori name for DOC kapa haka – Traditional Maori group singing and dancing moe – sleep pounamu – Maori name for greenstone te reo – literally ‘the language’; the Maori language
GLOSSARY karakia – prayer, incantation moko – tattoo; usually refers to facial tattoos powhiri – traditional Maori welcome onto a marae tiki – short for hei tiki kaumatua – highly respected members of a tribe; the Moriori – isolated Polynesian group, inhabitants of the tiki tour – scenic tour; roundabout way people you would ask for permission to enter a marae Chatham Islands quad bikes – four-wheel farm bikes toheroa – large clam 732 GLOSSARY GLOSSARY 733
tohunga – priest; wizard; general expert waka – canoe toi toi – tall native grass Warriors – NZ’s popular rugby league club, affiliated with tomo – hole; entrance to a cave Australia’s NRL tramp – bush walk; trek; hike Watties – the NZ food and canning giant; NZ’s answer to tua tua – type of shellfish Heinz (until Heinz took over the company) tuatara – prehistoric reptile dating back to the age of Wellywood – Wellington, because of its thriving film dinosaurs industry tui –native parson bird Westie – from West Auckland; rough-edged fellow, prob- tukutuku – Maori wall panels in marae and churches ably wearing a black tee-shirt, drinking beer and listening tuna – eel to AC/DC; see also bogan, munter two ticks – short measurement of time (as in ‘I’ll be whakairo rakau – Maori woodcarving there in two ticks’); see also jiff whakapapa – genealogy whanau – family umu – earth oven whare – house urupa – burial site wharepuni – sleeping house whare runanga – meeting house varsity – university whare whakairo – carved meeting house whenua – land wahine – woman whitebait – tiny translucent fish that is scooped up in wai – water nets and eaten whole (head, eyes and all!) or made into waiata – song patties Waikikamukau – mythical NZ town, far from anywhere wopwops – remote; ‘out in the wopwops’ is out in the (and pronounced along the lines of ‘Why-kick-a-moo-cow’) middle of nowhere wairua – spirit Waitangi – short way of referring to the Treaty of zorbing – rolling down a hill inside an inflatable plastic Waitangi ball GLOSSARY © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to GLOSSARY everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’