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Cosmetics and Frangrance Marketing Association Oct. 2018 Highlights The Beauty of Business

CF MA Beauty Industry News By Alicia Srikissoon & Larissa Anderson

August 30, 2018 Ulta Beauty announced that ’s makeup line, Kylie , will be available in stores for the upcoming 2018 Holiday season. Details including what specific products will be launched are unclear. Regardless, Ulta’s sales rose 14% immediately following this announcement. This will be the first time that Kylie Cosmetics will be sold in a “brick-and- mortar” store as the brand is only available online and at the occasional pop-up shop. Since the details are so unclear, fans of the self-made billionaire have turned to creating their own theories on what’s to come, with many believing that the company will create new, exclusive products for its launch. As Kylie’s cryptic twitter announcement stated, “more to come…”

September 13, 2018 Gucci Beauty has launched a standalone Instagram account, @guccibeauty, in order to promote a relaunch of their beauty line. The line previously launched in November 2014. Though it was highly anticipated, it never truly lived up to the hype and nothing monumental came out of the launch. Creative director since 2015, Alessandro Michele, showcases his “vision of beauty” by highlighting the history of beauty rather than by posting product focused content. The account is said to serve as a platform to “show new launches in the beauty arena, together with fragrances, looks from the fashion shows and special collaborations with artists and talents.” In the future, however, the account will be used as a way to display new launches in the beauty industry as well as looks from fashion shows.

September 27, 2018 La Mer, the Estée Lauder owned beauty brand, is being sued for false claims by its new Chinese consumers. The entire brand is centered around the luxurious ingredients used to create a “holy grail” that supposedly heals scars known as Créme de la Mer. It is advertised as having restorative properties and is being sold at $175 per oz. These false claims could shatter their relationship with the same Chinese market that recently made them a multi-billion dollar company in the fourth quarter of the 2018 fiscal year. The lawsuit was brought on by Chinese beauty blogger Hao Yu. While this may seem shocking, it is not the first time that the company has been brought under fire for its ambiguous ingredients. Many bloggers have made it known that the products in this face cream are more common than the company will have you believe, such as mineral oil and petroleum. The Daily Mail even went so far as to hire a cosmetic chemist in 2010 to inspect the product. After a thorough investigation, the chemist deemed the “miracle” cream to be worth $20 based on its ingredients.

Highlights: The Beauty of Business

2 Beauty Industry News Cont.

October 4,2018 Birchbox is a company best known for their subscription boxes that offersubscribers different beauty, skin, and hair samples each month. Birchboxand Walgreens recently announced that the two will collaborate to offer consumers multichannel beauty experiences. The companies declared that Birchbox would establish a presence in 11 Walgreens stores across the U.S. According to the companies, the partnership will help bring “prestige beauty brands into Walgreens stores and allow customers to discover and shop for new brands.” The new spaces will range from 400- 1,000 square feet and will resemble a Birchbox store in a drug store environment. By partnering with Birchbox, Walgreens will be able to sell over 40 brands that are both company and subscriber favorites. The small makeup company was founded by Katia Beauchamp and Hayley Barna. The two created the company as a way to make discovering and sampling new beauty products fun and easy. The two are ecstatic to bring their core premise into a physical, store experience, seeing as their plans to create more physical locations was put on hold in 2016 (the company has a store in Soho, New York). It is safe to say the company has come a long way from its initial launch in September 2010.

October 10,2018 Unilever, which owns brands such as Dove, Degree, and TRESemmé has announced that they plan to support the global ban to end animal testing for cosmetics.The company has collaborated with more than 50 key partners, including the government, with the goal to prohibit animal testing. The company further announced that Dove has gained accreditation by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) for not testing their products on animals. Beginning in January 2019, PETA’s “cruelty-free” logo will appear on Dove packaging. In addition, Dove’s parent company Unilever will appear on PETA’s “Working for Regulatory Change” list due to their support of cruelty free testing across all of their product lines.

October 12, 2018 Deciem announced via an Instagram post that the brand was "temporarily closing, and its website is down, due to a “major criminal activity, which includes financial crimes.” Deciem that was said to be sold at Ulta-beauty in 2019 will no longer be launching there. Estée Lauder attempt to remove Truaxe from his position and appoint Nicola Kilner. Deciem’s co-CEO is now Nicola Kilner.

Highlights: The Beauty of Business

3 October 2018 Beauty Trends By Kaitlyn Kahl

Stila’s “Vivid & Vibrant” duos. Finally- False Lashes a new excuse to splurge at for new shades that ashes-With the popularity of long and voluminous you might not have in your collection yet! Llashes, it’s no surprise that false lashes are making a comeback! Lash extensions may not always be budget friendly and if applied incorrectly, they can damage your natural lashes. In addition, mascara doesn’t always deliver the results you want. Applying false lashes daily hasn’t always been the most practical option, however, many companies are creating new and innovative approaches when it comes to application and comfort. From magnetic lashes to lighter weight lash strips, lashes have made a major All-Natural Beauty comeback and are here to stay! ransparency in the beauty industry has been a Thot topic lately and we can definitely say that the majority of consumers want to know what they’re putting on their skin. With that being said, organic, vegan, and all-natural products have been flying off the shelves compared to conventional popular brands. Sephora recently launched their ‘Clean at Sephora’ seal, so shopping for products with no harsh chemicals and ingredients has never been easier! We can expect to see many brands following this trend and launching products that Non-Neutral Shadows will appeal to the rising ut with the old, in with the new! The beloved Urban demand of Decay “Naked” eyeshadow palette announce O eco-conscious its retirement and we can officially acknowledge that beauty. neutral shadows are no longer a hot topic. Colorful, foiled metallic, and liquid glitter shadows have stolen the spotlight, while cult favorite neutrals are taking the backseat in most contemporary makeup collections. We’ve seen new tones on shelves such as Huda Beauty’s limited edition jewel toned “Obsessions” palettes and

Highlights: The Beauty of Business

4 Innovation & Technology By Caneel Eddy & Tiffany Sukhnandan

241 Bedford Ave: The Newest Home of Sephora Studio In an industry that requires personalized regimes and assistance in shopping (for the most part), Sephora has managed to cover all bases in a digitally- enhanced, consumer friendly environment that provides high quality services through an experiential approach.

fter years of demand, Sephora Ahas finally decided to open up a store in the trendy neighborhood of Williamsburg, Brooklyn. However, this is not an ordinary Sephora; it is the 3rd “Sephora Studio,” which features a curated selection of beauty products, coupled with consumer-engaging displays and AI (Artificial Intelligence) technology. Although it is only about 2,000 square feet (less than half the size of standard Sephora stores), the innovative features have allowed the store to gain popularity very quickly in a market where brick-and-mortar loyalty has become a challenge for retailers. Sephora Studios focus on a hands-on and their collection in the future. To compensate for the interactive approach through makeup advice, , more exclusive collection featured in Sephora Studios, and full makeovers, more so than a typical Sephora customers are still able to order any product sold in location. Aided by technology, Beauty Advisors any Sephora location or online and have it shipped customize their recommendations to each individual directly to them, or sent to the store for same-day client’s needs and desires. When a customer works pickup. Additionally, there are no traditional cash with an advisor, they can have their picture taken registers; Beauty Advisors check out their clients with and uploaded to their digital profile, along with notes smartphones, which allows them to work from start about products tested together. This allows personal to finish with a customer, rather than only assisting relationships to be fostered between advisors and them in one area and then sending them elsewhere to customers, keeping them loyal to Sephora and able to complete their shopping trip. remember their favorite products and expand upon “The goal of the Studio is to foster personal

Highlights: The Beauty of Business

5 Innovation & Technology Cont.

in store Custom Makeover Plus, including the option of a Skincare Consultation or Mini . Beauty Advisors utilize the Skincare IQ quiz and Moisture Meter to provide their clients with an accurate evaluation of their skin type and guide them in selecting products for their skincare routine. Color matching becomes even more precise with the Sephora + Pantone Color IQ touch screens used by advisors to identify the client’s match, shade, and even suitable lip colors. Incompatible in the market, the Sephora Digital Makeover Guide is a record keeping service for the customer’s in store experience, documenting the products connections between our clients and our beauty and application of the makeover as well as look advisors,” says Mary Beth Laughton, EVP of Omni preferences. Delivered via email to the consumer Retail at Sephora. “But we’re using technology to ease for easy access and reference for future purchases. that relationship building. The Beauty Studio incorporates exclusive digital tools that play a key factor in featured services from 15- minute Mini Facials and Mini Makeovers to a 45- minute Custom Makeover. Also, the first ever in the industry 75- minute

Highlights: The Beauty of Business

6 Culture of Beauty By Ching-Wei (Chris) Chen Taiwanese Beauty

aiwan is not only the of the most recently popular face mask brands Tbest destination for called TTmask1 (Timeless Truth) has expanded foodies, but also for beauty its footprint in Parashop in France and Le Bon enthusiasts. According to Marché in Paris. Women in Taiwan are often Euromonitor International, seen wearing light coverage foundation, almost Taiwan ranks sixth in Asia invisible eyeliner and nude colored lips . The for overall sales of beauty, reason is simple, as Taiwanese women appreciate with an estimated value of the idea of wellness as the 2 new beauty. These 3.8 billion dollars, following women want to convey to the world that they live Japan, China, South Korea, a positive and healthy lifestyle, and this shows India, and Thailand. From through glowing and healthy looking skin. the presentation of Israel Economic & Trade Mission Although long and straight hair remains in Taipei in 2018, we know that nearly 54% of the a solid favorite in Taiwan, the medium-length carefree Taiwan’s current market accounts for skin care, and bob with a soft wavy texture has been mainstreamed the rest of the market is designated for color cosmetics, within the last five years. Adding volume to the head with a market share of 17.4%. Despite the market is commonly seen on both short and long hair among previously being dominated by European, American Taiwanese women. They will have the hair braided and Japanese brands, in recent years both domestic overnight, and take it out in the morning to create the and Korean brands have gained the most popularity. most natural wavy look. In For Taiwanese women, addition, bangs are cut short there is nothing more on the forehead and above important than flawless the eyebrows for a chic and and youthful skin. Makeup youthful style. routines tend to be very The ideal beauty in simple, and the no-makeup Taiwan is tightly connected to makeup look is favored the awareness of health. We in Taiwan. Some skincare can see an increase in the clean necessities for Taiwanese and organic brands in the women are sun protection, Taiwanese beauty market as well as the growing interest brightening products, of healthier lifestyle from the consumers. Quality over , toners, serums, quantity can be best described as consumer’s value in , eye creams, and terms of purchasing beauty products. In Taiwanese’s the most important of all, beauty culture, this manifests as higher interest in face masks. Both women and natural and organic cosmetics and personal care men do face masks once or products, while the more natural look is becoming a twice a week in Taiwan. One major focus in skin care and colour cosmetics.

Highlights: The Beauty of Business

7 Interview By Iola Killian and Madelynne Jameson

Annette Green, Author of Spritzing To Success

innovation, perseverance, and curiosity can change the fate of a business. Annette began her career as a journalist covering fashion, beauty, and people’s interest topics. When she landed her first public relations and marketing role, a new window of opportunity emerged, enabling Annette to combine her impeccable communication skills with her business-savvy outlook and entrepreneurial spirit. After learning the ropes of the profession, Annette took a leap of faith and started her own PR agency, Annette Green Associates. Annette’s work for the Fragrance Foundation began when she took the defunct organisation in as a pro-bono client. After 10 years of PR, marketing, and branding representation under the title of Executive Director, Annette was appointed to President of the Fragrance Foundation in the early 1960s. In ten years, she had transformed American fragrance from a stagnant, struggling industry into a thriving, multi- million dollar business. Annette attributes a substantial his September, Annette Green, President Emeritus portion of the Fragrance Foundation’s successful Tof the Fragrance Foundation celebrated the transition to the changing status of American women launch of her new book, Spritzing To Success With in society. “Fragrance is [a product] of its time,” says The Woman Who Brought An Industry To Its Senses. Annette. Her advice to current students with an interest Annette is also one of the catalysing forces behind the in the industry is “always have your finger on the pulse, development of the Fashion Institute of Technology’s and never stop learning”. Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing Program. During her 40-year reign as President, many of Through Spritzing To Success..., Annette tells the story Annette’s proudest accomplishments were conceived as of her lifelong devotion to the world of the human a result of her engagement with current events, politics, senses, which was fuelled by her love for perfume, and pop culture, and new technological developments. her conviction to help the fragrance industry achieve “There was very little that didn’t interest me,” states its full artistic and scientific potential. Her memoirs Annette, “and that is still the case today”. Observing offer students and professionals a detailed account the insular nature of cosmetics companies of the time, of the fragrance industry’s past, indicating how Annette actively sought advice from outsiders, regularly

Highlights: The Beauty of Business

8 Interview Cont.

inviting scientists, artists, and psychologists to speak on the state of the fragrance industry and share their ideas for growth. Her goal was to disrupt and modernize the industry by championing diversity of opinions and challenging the status quo, a common theme throughout Spritzing To Success. “It never occurred to me to give up”, muses Annette. The Sense Of Smell Institute (a research division of The Fragrance Foundation focused on olfactory science) and the FiFis (a glamorous annual award ceremony frequented by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren, and Catherine Deneuve) were just two of many landmark achievements to come from Annette’s Fragrance Foundation, which have left a lasting note. Annette became involved in FIT’s development of the country’s first Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing baccalaureate and master’s degree program to “create an aura of professionalism in the fragrance industry so that young people could be educated to pull better salaries, positions, and create opportunities for women to excel in industries where they previously could not.” Today, she remains committed to this mission, and will be donating the proceeds from Spritzing To Success to the Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing program at FIT as well as the “Annette Green Perfume Museum” at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles. She hopes to inspire future generations of cosmetics and fragrance marketers to cultivate curiosity, optimism, and determination throughout their careers. In conjunction with the book release, Annette will also be hosting a panel of industry experts discussing the future of the fragrance industry, followed by a book signing, at FIT on November 6, 2018.

Highlights: The Beauty of Business

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