Cosmetics Packaging INSIGHT WINTER 2018 Millennial bug The millennial market is increasing the importance of brand engagement

Materials • Regulation • Brand protection • Sustainability

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Samplinginnovations.indd 1 06/12/2018 11:58 From the editor

On the web... Matthew Rogerson Keep up with the latest developments Editor across the packaging industry by visiting www.pci-mag.com Growth factors for the festive season s Christmas rolls ever closer, the VR technology to allow users to try on cosmetics industry prepares for products prior to purchase or through A one of its highest growth periods partnerships with mobile apps to help improve of the year. Looking good is big business the reach of products. Consumers can even Cosmetics Packaging Insight and business continues to be good, with use smart tools as diagnostic experts to help Winter 2018 consumers willing to pay high amounts and measure the exact make-up of their skin to EDITORIAL make more effort to source the right cosmetics assist with product choices, rather than relying Editor Matthew Rogerson products than ever before, but this comes on the previously used trial and error. Chief sub-editor Thom Atkinson Sub-editors Nicholas Kenny, Julian Turner with the downside that there is no loyalty to Inclusive positioning, such as the creation Senior writer Greg Noone anything less than excellence. of gender-neutral products and advertising Feature writers Grace Allen, Tim Gunn Production manager Steve Buchanan Any product caught overpromising and campaigns to engage the male demographic, Group art director Henrik Williams Designer Martin Faulkner under-delivering will quickly be put on notice has grown rapidly across the globe. This trend through social media and word of mouth, also seeks to create intergenerational and COMMERCIAL and without immediate improvements will racially diverse marketing campaigns that Client services executive Yasmina Jackson Publication manager Richard Pollard be scrapped equally fast. This is a market that communicate beauty as something that all Subscriptions marketing manager can give Kylie Jenner a $1-billion company consumers can possess. Mariella Salerno Publisher William Crocker valuation within three years, so the money is Perhaps the most crucial to note is the there for the right products and the right look. move towards unique experiences, which So what is driving growth in 2019 in the provides flexible formulations that consumers

Cosmetics Packaging Insight is published by cosmetics sector? There are a number of can alter and reformulate depending on Compelo, a member of the Audit Bureau of Circulation. active key trends that have been spotted changes in their lifestyle. Companies have also John Carpenter House, John Carpenter Street, throughout the year: been working to enhance product packaging London, EC4Y 0AN, UK Tel: +44 20 7936 6400 Fax: +44 20 7411 9800 The clean lifestyles trend has incorporated and its ‘shareability’ – offering unique shapes, www.compelo.com www.pci-mag.com beauty foods or supplements that can be colours, and reflective and metallic materials ISSN 2516-3442 © 2018 Compelo. integrated into the diet to support beauty and that encourage sharing online and assist in Registered in England No. 09901510. grooming. This can be achieved by harnessing improving product visibility. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be health food ingredients to develop naturally However cosmetics companies choose to reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, photocopying or otherwise, beneficial formulations. Single dose products drive growth, listening to consumers remains without prior permission of the publisher and copyright owner. that need to be refrigerated and have ‘use by’ the key to looking good and feeling great, While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this publication, the publisher accepts no dates can enhance efficacy perceptions. ensuring they have the tools and functionality responsibility for errors or omissions. Smart tools continue to dominate cosmetics of product they need in order to intuitively use The products and services advertised are those of individual packaging innovation, whether through using their products and unlock their best selves. authors and are not necessarily endorsed by or connected with the publisher. The opinions expressed in the articles within this publication are those of individual authors and not necessarily those of the publisher. SUBSCRIPTIONS In this issue Single issue: UK £31 EU €49 US $65 ROW $65 One year: UK £48 EU €76 US $99 ROW $100 Page 19: Taking stock of millennials, their purchasing habits in Two year: UK £77 EU €120 US $158 ROW $159 the beauty sector and effect on the industry.

Subscription hotline: +44 845 073 9607 (local rate) Page 28: How businesses have been making use of online Subscription fax: +44 207 458 4032 transparency to increase effi ciency, safety and trust in their brands. Email: [email protected] Cosmetic Packaging Insight & Innovation Subscriptions, Page 32: A look at the shift towards green consumerism and Riverbridge House, Ground Floor, South Tower, Anchor Boulevard. the potential benefi ts for businesses that embrace this trend. Crossways, Kent DA2 6SL Printed by Stephens & George Print Group Visit www.pci-mag.com

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PCI043_Essentra_FP.indd 1 06/12/2018 12:01 Contents In this issue... Cover story 16 19

Millennials are more likely to trust social media in uencers and bloggers than brand claims. Tubes are the new stars in cosmetics packaging.

6 The global market 15 Drive innovation key legislative topics for the beauty This GlobalData report brings in the tube market and personal-care industries. Julia together multiple data sources Viva Packaging Wray reports. to provide a comprehensive overview of the global cosmetics 16 Tube takeover 25 Small and sustainable and toiletries industry. The Tubes have proved to be effective, Exhibitors at ADF & PCD New report provides percentage and cost-effective, packaging York 2018 were split equally across share (in 2017) and growth components across the cosmetics packaging and dispensing. What they analysis (during 2012–22) for and skincare industries for many all had in common was providing various package materials, pack years, and are increasingly being solutions that offered sustainability, type, closure type, and primary adopted by other markets. Cosmetics with a focus on challenger brands outer types based on the volume Packaging Insight selects a number looking to disrupt the market. sales (by pack units) of cosmetics of products featuring tubes as and toiletries products. primary packaging components 28 Full transparency from GlobalData’s pack track Neil Thompson explores how 9 Up close and personal database, and highlights the businesses are discovering new The growing UK beauty and features that make these products opportunities to boost efficiency, personal-care market was worth innovative and improvements on safety and trust in their leading labels. more than £15 billion in 2017. To what came before. differentiate themselves in this 31 An exciting new way to glamorous and crowded sector, 19 Marketing that meets promote fragrances brands have to go beyond being millennial needs Sampling Innovations Europe aesthetically pleasing because Millennials make up almost a third of consumers now expect the the world’s population, spending about 32 Rub of the green ‘whole package’. Emma-Jane $200 billion each year, so GlobalData A shift towards ‘green’ consumerism Batey speaks to a range of beauty Consumer conducted a special report is evident, with 75% of consumers brands about how they are meeting on millennials and their purchasing believing that living an ethical and market demands. habits in the beauty sector. sustainable lifestyle is important in creating a feeling of well-being, 12 Ideas shaped in metal 22 Legislative round-up according to primary research by Pack-Man From the EU Cosmetics Regulation GlobalData. Ethical and sustainable to halal certification and REACH, the packaging can now play an 13 A perfect fit 2018 Cosmetics Business Regulatory important role in achieving that Aarts Plastics Summit covered a broad range of lifestyle and peace of mind.

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CPI003_102_Contents.indd 5 06/12/2018 11:23 The intelligence > Market analysis The global market This GlobalData report brings together multiple data sources to provide a comprehensive overview of the global cosmetics and toiletries industry. The report provides percentage share (in 2017) and growth analysis (for 2012–22) for various package materials, pack type, closure type, and primary outer types based on the volume sales (by pack units) of cosmetics and toiletries products.

he global cosmetics and toiletries animal welfare organisations to ban High-potential countries industry was valued at $412 billion animal testing of personal-care products, A total of 50 countries were analysed, T in 2017, led by Asia-Pacific and manufacturers face the challenges of based on a risk-reward analysis, to identify the Americas, which accounted for value seeking alternative testing methods the top four countries by region. The risk- shares of 37.6 and 32.4%, respectively. and replacing conventional packaging reward analysis is based on multiple A falling global unemployment rate and the materials with more sustainable ones. metrics, including market size and growth consequent rise in disposable income levels The value share of skincare and oral assessment, economic development are major factors influencing consumer hygiene is forecast to increase during indicators, socio-demographic spending on personal care. The projected 2012–22, while that of haircare and factors, governance indicators, global economic improvements, led make-up is expected to remain constant. and technological infrastructure. by strong growth in Asia’s developing At regional levels, personal hygiene in The top ten high-potential countries – economies, will drive growth in the Eastern Europe, feminine hygiene in China, South Korea, Brazil, Canada, cosmetics and toiletries industry. However, Asia-Pacific, and haircare and personal Colombia, the Netherlands, the UK, with consumers’ rising concerns about hygiene in MEA, are projected to see strong Russia, Poland and Saudi Arabia – sustainability, and increasing pressure from growth in value shares during 2012–22. accounted for a combined value share of

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CPI003_108_Market Outlook.indd 6 06/12/2018 11:37 The intelligence > Market analysis

40.9% in 2017. China is set to emerge as address specific issues, such as hair fall/ ‘moringa’ and ‘kale’, deemed to be naturally the fastest-growing market for cosmetics hair loss, dull skin or dark spots, has led to nourishing to skin and hair. Additionally, and toiletries (C&T) with a projected the emergence of personal-care products regional beauty regimen will drive the use CAGR of 8% for 2017–22, while Russia with active ingredients, vitamins and of ingredients such as snail essence, yogurt, was the largest market in Eastern Europe minerals. Distaste for artificial ingredients argan oil, jojoba oil, black pine and wild with a value share of 42.7% in 2017. has also prompted the rising use of rose to gain clean label positioning. natural ingredients such as black and The clean label trend will see Competitive landscape white charcoal, aloe vera, coconut water, continued interest in ‘organic’ and The global C&T industry is highly rose, honey and lemon, as well as other ‘natural’ tags. Functional claims such as fragmented, with the top four brands – plant and fruit-based extracts in C&T. ‘pollution protection’ and ‘sweat defence’ Nivea, Dove, L’Oréal Paris and Colgate – Functional claims such as ‘UV will increase, given consumers’ desire for accounting for a combined value share of defence’, ‘anti-hairfall’ and ‘anti-ageing’ efficient personal-care solutions. Ethical 6.4% in 2017. The overall share of private are being used to make cosmetics and claims such as ‘sustainably sourced’ and label products in the global C&T industry toiletries appealing to consumers ‘vegan’ will remain in vogue, as brands increased from 3.2% in 2012 to 3.5% in who seek quick and effective results. try to increase their appeal across a 2017, with value sales reaching $14.42 Producers are also capitalising on diverse user segment. billion in 2017. Improvements in the ‘free-from’ claims such as ‘cruelty-free’, With growing desire for simple and quality of private label cosmetics and ‘paraben-free’ and ‘no artificial colours’ clean labelling, the demand for products toiletries products, coupled with changing to build an ethically and socially with clear on-pack communication will consumer perceptions of private label, conscious brand image among gain momentum. For instance, using remain major driving factors of growth. consumers looking for personal-care simple language or recognisable products that share their ideals. ingredients along with scientific names Distribution channels As consumers become more savvy (such as Vitamin E for Tocopherol), will Hypermarkets and supermarkets were the and aware of the numerous complex not only increase product appeal but also leading distribution channel in the global ingredients used in C&T, they are build trust through transparency. C&T industry, with a value share of 34.5% increasingly reading product labels. Manufacturers will continue to innovate in 2017 attributed to the availability of a As many as 42% pay high or very high with new formats, designs and value-added wide range of personal and beauty care attention to the ingredients used in the packaging features for C&T that enhance products under one roof. Hypermarkets and beauty or grooming products they buy. user experience. Additionally, consumers’ supermarkets were followed by health and Therefore, it becomes important for desire to reduce household wastage from beauty stores, which accounted for a value brands to provide ingredient lists, as packaging will spur manufacturers to share of 16.5% in 2017. Among all the well as allergen information on labels focus on sustainable packaging, such as regions, Middle East and Africa registered for safe usage. recycled materials and paperboard, as well the highest sales of C&T products through With busy consumer lifestyles, and as biodegradable plastics. the hypermarkets and supermarkets rising out-of-home and on-the-go usage, channel, with a value share of 42.2%. convenient, effective, and single-use Global overview The improving global economy will spur Pop-up retail is the new ‘buzz’ in brand consumer spending on C&T. The global engagement, as companies look to offer consumers C&T industry was valued at $412 billion in 2017, led by Asia-Pacific and the Americas, the ‘bricks and mortar store’ shopping experience which accounted for value shares of 37.6% without the high cost of permanent retail spaces. and 32.4%, respectively. An improving global economy, driven by strong economic Packaging formats pack formats have gained popularity in growth in emerging markets, and the Flexible packaging was the most commonly the personal-care industry. subsequent rise in disposable income levels, used package material in the global C&T C&T manufacturers are also focusing on are the major growth drivers. Skincare industry, accounting for a 45.4% volume innovations such as spray-on and roll-on was the largest sector with a value share share in 2017, followed by rigid plastics applicators for effective coverage and of 28.2% in 2017, followed by haircare and with 38.7%. The use of rigid metal is application for maximum benefit. make-up, which accounted for value expected to grow the fastest, at a CAGR of shares of 16.9 and 11.5% respectively. 4.0% during 2012–22, followed by flexible Future outlook packaging at a CAGR of 3.8%. With innovation being vital for success in Growth drivers the personal-care industry, brands are There are a number of factors influencing Current scenario incorporating superfoods such as growth in this area: Increasing demand for high-performance ‘probiotics’ (lactobacillus and ■ High participation of women in cosmetics that not only nourish but also bifidobacterium), ‘green tea’, ‘algae’, the global labour force (49.5%) will

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continue to support growth in the traceability, which is challenging by virtue economies, including Brazil, Chile, industry, as women become more of the globalisation of supply chains. Colombia and Mexico, will contribute appearance-conscious. to the growth of the C&T industry, ■ Rising consumer confidence across Asia-Pacific focus which is projected to record a CAGR major global markets, coupled Asia-Pacific is projected to record the of 2.4% during 2017–22. Haircare was with the high-spending habits of fastest value growth during 2017–22. the largest sector, with a value share millennials who enjoy spending on Asia-Pacific was the largest market in of 19.3% in 2017. improving appearances, will drive the global C&T industry, with a value Manufacturers in the C&T industry sales for C&T. share of 37.6% in 2017. are increasingly creating products that adapt to specific consumer lifestyles. An increasing number of companies in the For instance, Sweat Cosmetics and cosmetics and toiletries industry are hopping Tarte Cosmetics launched products with sweat and water-resistant onto the ‘green’ bandwagon by packaging their formulations targeted at consumers products with recycled or recyclable materials. with active lifestyles. Beauty companies such as The Body Shop and Lush ■ Strong growth in the air travel This was led by China, Japan and Cosmetics, which claim to follow industry, with international travel South Korea, which accounted for a ethical business practices such as rising by 6.7% in 2016, and the combined regional value share of 77.8%. fair trade and cruelty-free testing, subsequent rise in travel retail, The Asia-Pacific market for C&T is are expanding their footprint in Brazil, remained a major driver for luxury forecast to record the fastest CAGR of indicating growing consumer interest in brands such as L’Oréal and 5.7% during 2017–22 and remain the sustainable and ethical products. Estée Lauder. largest market worldwide, with a 41.5% value share in 2022. Growth is primarily Western Europe Latest developments driven by the rapidly expanding Growing demand for premium products The C&T industry is constantly adapting aspirational middle class population and rising image-consciousness among to changing circumstances: who constantly look for better-quality men are driving value sales in Western ■ An increasing number of companies products. Skincare was the largest sector Europe, which was the third-largest in the C&T industry are hopping onto with a value share of 43.1% in 2017. market in the global C&T industry with the ‘green’ bandwagon by packaging In light of rising consumer distrust a value share of 21.9% in 2017. Germany their products with recycled or of chemical and synthetic ingredients, and the UK were the top two countries for recyclable materials. For instance, there has been a rise in C&T with C&T in the region, with a combined value P&G developed a recyclable bottle clean label claims. For instance, L’Oréal share of 39% in 2017. for its Head and Shoulders line India introduced its Garnier Ultra Blends The region is forecast to record a and Dior launched Hydra Life in range of haircare with ‘no paraben’ modest CAGR of 1.9% in value terms lightweight glass packaging. and ‘natural’ tags. ‘Pop-up’ retail is the during 2017–22. Improving eurozone ■ Rising consumer desire for a new ‘buzz’ in brand engagement, as economies and a projected rise in premium experience is driving companies look to offer consumers consumer confidence will play a manufacturers to use expensive and the ‘bricks and mortar store’ shopping significant role in revitalising demand luxurious ingredients, such as gold experience without the high cost of for the industry. Skincare was the (anti-ageing), caviar (antioxidants), permanent retail spaces. For instance, largest sector with a value share of and diamonds (micro abrasion) in Lancôme debuted its pop-up store – 24.3% in 2017. their cosmetics products. ‘Holiday Wonders’ – at Changi Airport European consumers are highly in Singapore (open from 6 October 2017 conscious of the social and ecological Future inhibitors to 10 November 2017). impact of products they purchase. In With governments focusing on reducing response to this, companies such as the environmental impact of cosmetics, The Americas Weleda and P&G launched products manufacturers might be required to alter The Americas emerged as the second- packaged with recycled materials. their product formulations. For instance, the largest global market for cosmetics and With the male beauty segment Swedish Government plans to introduce toiletries, with a value share of 32.4% growing at a rapid pace, an increasing legislation to reduce the use of substances in 2017. The region was dominated by number of companies are launching such as triclosan and triclocarban in the US, with a value share of 52.6%, male-specific products. For instance, cosmetics as they are harmful to the where increasing income levels is L’Oréal partnered with the celebrity environment. As consumers seek more driving premiumisation in the market. David Beckham on a men’s grooming information about the products they use, On the other hand, the expanding brand called House 99, which launched companies must focus more on ingredient middle-income population in developing in the UK in February 2018.

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CPI003_108_Market Outlook.indd 8 06/12/2018 11:38 Insight > Materials Up close and personal The growing UK beauty and personal-care market was worth more than £15 billion in 2017. To differentiate themselves in this glamorous and crowded sector, brands have to go beyond being aesthetically pleasing because consumers now expect the ‘whole package’. Emma-Jane Batey speaks to a range of beauty brands about how they are meeting market demands.

eauty products across all price and product quality, we have been points are expected to be careful to balance a very clean, vintage- B effective, but now consumers apothecary type of look while keeping demand that they are equally appealing certain Japanese elements, like the and efficacious. People are savvy about Japanese language symbols in the what they put on their skin, with logo, as well as using the original ingredients, packaging and the products Yu-Be orange colour that can be seen themselves coming under increasing throughout the product line.” scrutiny – and rightly so. No brand Graham then discusses how the surge deserves an easy ride, particularly when in popularity for Asian beauty products it comes to the highly competitive has bolstered Yu-Be’s success. “The beauty sector. recent interest in Korean products, as well as the ongoing interest in The beauty of packaging other Asian beauty products, Take Japanese skincare company Yu-Be: especially for skin and hair, its reputation as an ‘only available in gives us a great opportunity Japan’ brand has been a valuable to educate shoppers about element in its packaging and growing our long history in Japan, popularity globally. For many years, and our high-quality and the company’s famous multipurpose, effective products. vitamin-enriched skin cream was a “We will continue special gift purchased by travellers to develop new, visiting Japan; so when a Japanese-US quality skincare businessman decided to import it, he had the determination to ensure that the brand remained exclusive, keeping its iconic status alive. Yu-Be sales and marketing director Matthew Graham says, “Yu-Be celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2017, and our famous Yu-Be Moisturizing Skin Cream is one of Japan’s longest and bestselling skin products. In order to convey a sense of Japanese history

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Alpha-H’s packaging emphasises the elegance of its products and protects premium ingredients.

products to beauty salons and skin supporting green and Earth-friendly clinics, and also has a retail offering; brands, and products that have a the company’s range includes minimal impact on the environment. supersized and deluxe minis. Brands are, therefore, becoming “We need to ensure that our more socially responsible with their packaging protects our powerful formulations, manufacturing and Yu-Be’s packaging pays homage to its active ingredients, such as glycolic packaging. Our packaging is clean, Japanese roots and its exclusivity in the country. acid, while also securing the potency minimal and functional, and we are products in Japan and bring them of our most delicate ingredients, always looking for ways to reduce our to market as we always have. In including vitamins, antioxidants, and footprint on planet Earth, without January 2018, we launched the Yu-Be flower and fruit acids,” explains Tom being overpackaged or overhyped.” Advanced Formula Pure Hydration Ogden, European business manager at Cream, which is made without Alpha-H. “Our ethlylene vinyl alcohol Affordable luxury any camphor extract or paraben (EVOH) tubes are also UV-coated, The demand for feel-good products in preservatives. The packaging will be providing excellent barrier protection the beauty sector is high across all price very similar to the original; however, to oxygen and humidity to preserve the points, with the expectation that efficacy we will be using green for the colour active ingredients inside. Our EVOH comes as standard. For leading UK-based scheme instead of the original orange, tubes and high-density polyethylene colour-cosmetics manufacturer Pascalle so customers can distinguish the two bottles are recyclable.” Cosmetics, its ability to develop and different creams from each other.” The new Alpha-H Liquid Gold manufacture a wide range of contract-fill Another pioneering skincare Firming Eye Cream is a great example and private-label cosmetics puts it at the brand, Alpha-H, uses its packaging to of ‘responsible, functional luxury’, with apex of quality and affordability. represent the ‘simplicity, understated its unique and precise application “We pride ourselves on having 30 elegance and sustainability’ of the through a cool-touch metallic years’ plus experience in cosmetic product within. It provides professional applicator. Ogden notes that design and manufacturing. We work with “sustainability and packaging are international retailers and independent major areas in the beauty sector that brands, offering full project management are undergoing change. People are to design, develop and create cosmetics ranges that are manufactured here at our factory in Stoke on Trent,” states Emma Dodd, business development manager. “Pascalle also owns six cosmetics brands that are available to purchase globally, including our entry price point Miss Beauty London collection to our mid and premium ranges MeMeMe and Beauty Pie ensures that its packaging is as environmentally friendly as possible. Kubiss,” she adds.

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CPI003_105_Materials.indd 10 06/12/2018 11:31 Insight > Materials

The MeMeMe brand offers high-end premium formulations that create Hygiene on the go ‘gorgeous and distinctive cosmetics at Kruidvat Solait Facial Treatment Serum delivers moisturisation and cooling for sun- an affordable price’. Dodd continues, parched skin. The cardboard box contains seven 2ml glass ampoules of serum, giving “Our passion at MeMeMe lies within a premium feel to this private-label brand. The convenient minis can be used at any creating gorgeous, feminine and spirited time for instant relief. Little Dome Hollywood Star toothpaste comes in a rigid plastic ball with pump cosmetics for our customers. We are a dispenser. It is visually striking compared with the usual tubes, there is no screw cap to celebration of individualism, believing lose, and the pump ensures it is mess-free and dispenses the correct amount. that the best in beauty and design Schick Hydro silk refill razor blades are offered in a multipack unit with a hook for should be affordable, and adored in every hanging in the bathroom. Rather than a rigid plastic compartment box, the perforated container means individual blades can be torn off for use on the go, and the heat- girl’s handbag. Mixing the themes of sealed, flexible-film cover protects the razors’ moisturising strips. mythology, romance and the bohemian Waterless Gillette Venus is a premium disposable razor sold in single packs. There spirit, MeMeMe is a brand that prides is a lubricating soft gel built into the squeezy bottle handle, which is dispensed onto the itself on the quality of its formulations skin from a sponge pad. The small, handy pack is made of firm plastic casing with a board backing card for total visibility. and unique approach.” The new cream from Pacific Shaving is unusual as it comes in a resealable, flexible Packaging plays an important role pouch. Each pouch holds 40 water-soluble mini pods, more typically used in laundry in establishing its identity. “MeMeMe detergents, to control dosing, save the mess of foams and oils, and to allow small features black and cream-themed high- amounts to be carried around with no canister or bottle needed. Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask to Clear Pores is an example end componentry, and the MeMeMe of creative primary and secondary packaging working together. The outer packaging signature pattern and cherub feature is a cardboard box with an image of the standard tube at the front and cut-out holes heavily on the packaging as well. at the back. Inside, there is a blister pack of four tear-off pods, each with 5ml of the Many items in the range are presented face mask, which protrude out of the holes. Showing off the pods adds intrigue for in cardboard packaging to create a the shopper, and the blister pack, with its sealed tear-off plastic film, keeps the product fresh. unique look and feel,” affirms Dodd. She then concentrates on trends and Inclusive beauty how the beauty brand is meeting them, Sleek Lifeproof Foundation is packaged in a standard plastic squeezy tube with a saying, “We are seeing trends across twist-off lid at the base. Its design is simple and the product is visible through the transparent section. The neutral black, white and grey colours of the tube remove cardboard palettes, and are developing any suggestion of gender. This marries with the brand’s campaign against gender contour and highlight palettes in bias – offering the same product to all people and not labelling it as ‘for men’ or card palettes that feature spot using pink tones for women. UV to respond to the trend, which Making the current trend of facial tissue masks applicable to men has been achieved subtly, highlighting the use of soothing botanicals for shaven skin, and M complements our existing card lipstick Skin Care’s Men’s Facial Sheet Mask for post-shave cooling does just that. The case, eye palettes and blush boxes.” pastel blue hue with stark typography doesn’t appear to be aggressively ‘for men’ but is delicate and calming to match the product. Beauty revolution Preserve Triple Razors are reusable handles with two blade cartridges in a carry case. The key aspect being that the razor handle itself is rigid plastic from recycled There is one fresh beauty brand that yogurt pots, while the PET, rigid display clam case is made from 100% post- is breaking the mould: Beauty Pie was consumer waste. The paper information leaflet encourages recycling and is printed founded by well-known business with soy inks. It is branded for men and women, which is rare in this sector, and is pioneer Marcia Kilgore – who is deemed BPA-free and not tested on animals. as “beauty royalty” by the Guardian’s Jecca Correct and Conceal Palette is unisex and comes in an elegant, neutral design. The pack is intended for use by transgender individuals but uses sleek, Sali Hughes – and is rapidly gaining simple colours and designs in its packaging to help it appeal to any person wanting evangelical fans due to its innovative to wear concealer as part of their daily make-up routine or to cover blemishes. buyers’ club. The premise is clear, says a Beauty Pie spokesperson who adds, “At Beauty Pie, our mission is to bring brands so appealing, while making the plastic jars, and we’ve chosen plant- our members the world’s best beauty company luxurious and affordable. based inks and recyclable board for our products at a totally transparent factory “We’re a team of beauty product cartons,” explains the spokesperson. cost. No mumbo-jumbo. No middlemen. obsessives who have worked in the Innovations in beauty packaging No mark-ups.” beauty industry for aeons. We’re working show that it pays to think outside That complete transparency is clearly to make our packaging as ecologically the box. Consumers are increasingly represented on Beauty Pie’s website: a conscious as possible. Too much demanding that what they put on their £20 lipstick costs just £2.24 to members, cosmetic packaging ends up in a landfill, face is kind to the world around them; with £1.61 of that accounting for the and the more complex the componentry, from the ingredients used to how product and packaging. Its dynamic the less easily it can be broken down for packaging tells the brand’s story, black and white packaging retains the recycling. We don’t use over-the-top skincare and beauty products must go distinctive look that makes luxury beauty fancy caps, metal cladding or rigid way beyond just being effective.

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CPI003_105_Materials.indd 11 06/12/2018 11:31 Company insight Ideas shaped in metal Specialising in custom metal packaging production, with a focus on the luxury cosmetics industry, Pack-Man is taking steps to ensure its operations are as eco-friendly as possible.

ack-Man, founded in 2014, specialises in custom metal packaging production, and its work is defined by its P precision. To maintain its production standards and ensure quick turnaround, product design, processing and finishing are done entirely in-house. The company’s agile supply chain allows it to complete limited to large volume orders and it is a certified, preferred supplier to major brands in the luxury cosmetics industry.

One step forward The TK520 treatment method produces sturdier and more lustrous In 2017, Pack-Man integrated the revolutionary TK520 aluminium aluminium that is also 100% recyclable. treatment method into its manufacturing process. This gives its injection into its manufacturing processes. Pack-Man’s eco- products a premium finish, superior tensile strength and an infinite friendly operations are certified compliant with applicable array of colour options. TK520 aluminium is sturdier and more environmental standards and legislation, generating zero waste lustrous than untreated aluminium, and is also 100% recyclable. water and particle emissions. By 2020, its operations will be In 2019, the company will be launching its inventive ‘Skincare’ powered partly by solar energy and alternative energy sources. range of packaging.

Create clean Further information Pack-Man Pack-Man opened its green factory in September 2018 to meet www.pack-man.fr increased demand and to fully integrate anodizing and plastic

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CPI003_Pack Man.indd 12 06/12/2018 11:52 Company insight A perfect fit Aarts Plastics produces packaging and its components for the high-end cosmetics industry.

arts Plastics has been creating items for the prototype item can produced along with a pilot mould high-end cosmetic space for decades. The (for injection projects) if requested, ensuring a limited run A success of the company lies in its vast can be set to test production prior to full release. After the experience in product and mould development, its testing phase has been concluded, the full mould attention to upcoming trends in the market and, of can be developed, and depending on the project course, some of the finest assembly and finishing requirements, can be completed as a single cavity, techniques in the business. These factors, combined multicavity or multicavity stack mould. with high-volume robotic production, makes Aarts Some of the more popular decoration options Plastics a perfect fit for many cosmetic brands. the company offers include metallisation, lacquering Aarts offers the luxury cosmetic market a small and, of course, industry standard hot-stamping standard range, but the company’s secret weapon and screen-printing. is its custom development division, which caters From 2019, the company will invest in a high- to numerous fragrance and cosmetic companies Aarts works in the high end. speed digital printing unit. This single-pass full- all over Europe. From perfume caps to powder colour printing unit can be used for flat and domed compacts, and outstanding design to the selection of the highest- surfaces like caps and compacts. With regard to technical expertise grade materials, Aarts makes sure that the development of new and design capabilities, Aarts is a name that is swiftly becoming packaging concepts runs smoothly and efficiently. inextricable from luxury cosmetic and fragrance packaging. For most pieces, the process the company uses to convert an idea into a physical reality is the hallmark of its renown. Starting with an engagement with the client to define exact parameters for Further information Aarts Plastics the project, a brief is developed that will lead to the actual design www.aartsplastics.nl/uk phase. Once a 3D model has been generated and approved, a

• Triple AAA • Production partner for bespoke cosmetic packaging • Smart production solutions • Most advanced moulding techniques • High volume robotic production

Aarts Plastics BV – Vijzelweg 8 · 5145NK Waalwijk The Netherlands •www.aartsplastics.nl · [email protected] • phone +31 416 332959

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CPI003_Aarts Plastics.indd 13 06/12/2018 11:51 Viva Packaging.indd 1 07/12/2018 09:57 Company insight Drive innovation in the tube market Synergy and in-house production are watchwords in almost every industry, but Viva Packaging believes it has mastered the way it implements both into its production process.

iva Packaging manufactures life cycle. When elaborate graphics are injection-moulded squeezable printed onto an IML, it is important to V tubes with in-mould labels. Its protect the artwork, as the tube is going main markets are the ones for personal- to be filled and then passed through a care products, haircare and skincare, but distribution process, and may even end other markets, such as food or industrial up in a purse or handbag. products like car finishing products, are also showing keen interest. Environmentally friendly tubes Global brands are looking for for the circular economy synergies, and having three global Traditionally, tubes are manufactured production locations is a key benefit for with the sleeve and shoulder produced Viva and its customers. Global brands separately and then welded together, and can produce uniform products across the cap is usually sourced externally. different locations, close to their markets. Using Viva’s IML technology, the With production facilities in Asia, North sleeve, shoulder and decoration are America and Europe, Viva can provide created in one manufacturing step – consistent packaging products across by injection-moulding with IML – different territories. and Viva manufactures all components Viva’s PP IML tubes return to their original shape rather than Viva helps brands differentiate wrinkling or deforming, resulting in a higher perceived value. in-house. Every component is moulded, themselves through their tubes. printed and assembled in the same Competition is tough and brands are looking for better-quality plant, and Viva controls the supply chain of the caps, which has graphics, better shelf impact and to be at the forefront of innovation. a big impact on its throughput times. Viva’s R&D department is working hard to develop future solutions Life-cycle analysis (LCA) of Viva’s tubes – taking resin sourcing that brands will need, such as dual chamber tubes, tubes made from into account along with the amount of energy spent to produce a recycled material and special applicator tubes. This is what Viva tube, all the way through to the finished tube – shows that the Viva stands for: driving the innovation in the tube market at the speed of injection-moulded tube with in-mould label saves, on average, up to light. Its strong family ownership structure, with very short decision- 35% of the energy used in production compared to any competing making processes, is the key to its ability to grow quickly. technology. Retailers are asking suppliers what they can contribute in terms of sustainability and Viva can help them with its 100% Brands and portfolio recyclable PP IML tubes. Viva supplies to brands like John Frieda, REN Skincare, Clearasil and The tube is made from one single resin – Polypropylene No. 5 – L’Oréal – as well as to strong, creative and green brands like Pacifica which means at the end of its life cycle it can be recycled without and Desert Essence, which have found the perfect fit with Viva’s having to separate tube and cap. A traditional tube is made from impacting graphics through a very sustainable tube packaging different materials. The cap, tube and shoulder are made from (which requires up to 35% less energy to produce and is 100% different resins, with the label made from yet another material, recyclable, with closed loop initiatives initiated with retail). and it is often nearly impossible to separate these components As customers embrace Viva’s IML tubes, they discover the from the tube for recycling. advantages of the more rigid and high-end feel of PP IML tubes. Viva uses a high degree of post-consumer recycled (PCR) These tubes bounce back to their original shape rather than material for the tube sleeve, and up to 100% for the caps used on its wrinkling or deforming, giving them a higher perceived value, and tubes. The disadvantages of PCR material – discoloration, only being the packaging looks untouched during the tubes’ entire life cycle. available in darker colours – are neutralised by the use of IML labels IMLs are printed on a flat surface, enabling Viva to print almost covering the entire tube body with decoration. any type of graphic – flexo, offset, silk screen, cold foil and many

more – on its state-of-the-art printing press. This hybrid printing Further information press combines these options and achieves the most striking Viva Packaging graphics on the in-mould label. Viva goes even further, ensuring the www.viva-healthcare.com [email protected] tube is resistant and graphics appear new during the tube’s entire

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CPI003_Viva Packaging.indd 15 06/12/2018 11:54 Insight > Materials Tube

takeoverTubes have proved to be effective, and cost-effective, packaging components across the cosmetics and skincare industries for many years, and are increasingly being adopted by other markets. Cosmetics Packaging Insight selects a number of products featuring tubes as primary packaging components from GlobalData’s pack track database, and highlights the features that make these products innovative and improvements on what came before.

biquitous and more than fit for purpose, tubes have long been U a mainstay in the cosmetics and skincare markets, but their rise to innovation superstars has been a more recent trend. The following products have been chosen from GlobalData’s pack track database as being a major improvement and innovation, and having a tube as a primary packaging component. All of these products have been launched over the past six months.

Etude Corporation: four-tipped, pen-style applicator South Korea’s Etude Corporation has launched its brow marker tint with a four-tipped, pen-style applicator. The company claims that its smudge-proof formula will last for two to three days. Packaging construction consists of a matt-printed cartonboard carton with straight tuck ends; inside is an injection-moulded brown plastics, pen- style rigid tube with silver-coloured and printed decoration. The key innovation in this product is the four-pronged applicator for eyebrow tint colour. A multi-tip marker-type applicator helps to give a natural, hair-like look very quickly; however, it is difficult to draw very fine lines. The pen- type pack is easy to hold and use, and can be carried discreetly in a handbag for use on the go. The integral applicator enhances the

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CPI003_104_Tubes.indd 16 06/12/2018 11:27 Insight > Materials

pack’s suitability for on-the-go touch- for touching up grey roots at the hairline squeeze the tube to start product flow into ups since no additional tools are and on eyebrows. It claims that the “self- the brush. Replacing the screw cap will required. The pack requires no priming adjusting colour technology blends to automatically return the base of the brush for use, though it may be necessary to match any hair colour” and that the to its original position and stop the flow. shake the pen to aid colour flow into product is free from peroxide, parabens, The automatically activated pull-push the applicator tip. ammonia, harsh chemicals and permanent applicator eliminates direct hand contact dyes. The product comes in an injection- with the product, resulting in a quick, clean Bliss: Fab Girl Sixpack moulded black plastics rigid tube with and hygienic usage experience. Bliss has launched a major tube a crayon-type colour stick at one end, The pack is inverted for presentation innovation into the skincare market with covered by an injection-moulded black and storage, and stands on its cap. Gravity its Fab Girl Sixpack, core-forming gel, plastics snap-on cap. Although Tru Tone means that the product naturally falls which it claims has a “powerful blend in India has previously sold a solid stick towards the closure ready for dispensing. of six core-stimulating ingredients” that touch-up colour, this is the first stick-type The tube is quite tall and slender, so “helps visibly tone, tighten and firm” the product with an integral blending sponge it fits comfortably in the hand for easy abdominal area. on the market. application. The flexible tube format The gel is housed in an injection- The actual size of the stick is illustrated means that once the cap has been opened, moulded white plastics airless pump on one side of the outer pack so that it is easy to squeeze out the mask on to dispenser tube with three-colour printed consumers are not deceived by the larger the brush and skin. decoration around the body. The product carton. This brand’s range also includes also contains a bi-injection moulded Root Touch-up Magnetic Powder in a Hard Candy: Sheer Envy plastics closure with spring-activated handy compact-style pack with pull-out primer stick pump dispensing mechanism and an sponge applicator. One end of the pack In make-up, Hard Candy has created its injection-moulded clear plastics friction-fit features coloured powder, compressed into Sheer Envy primer stick, which it says over-cap with moulded node to close off a solid stick format that can be applied prepares the skin for “flawless make-up the dispensing aperture. directly to the hair roots, while the other application” and to have a cooling effect. Other interesting applications of closures end has a small sponge applicator to blend Primer stick is an injection-moulded with integral massage devices include the colour for a more natural look. The dual- opaque rigid white plastics tube with twist- Voltaren pain-relief gel (laminate tube with ended stick format means that there is no up dispensing actuator; it is divided in half, push-pull type closure); Nivea firming need for the consumer’s hands to come so the top part forms a friction-fit lid, and shower gel (HDPE bottle with massage into direct contact with the colour, making the bottom part has a twist-up dispensing head that has adjustable firmness); and a usage quick, clean and easy. The format is mechanism (rotating the lower part pushes H20 Plus Aquafirm skin-firming gel (PP ideal for use on the go or when travelling the inner product barrel upwards) and bottle with roller-type massager). and the stick can be carried easily in a direct-printed decoration over the tube In this product, the main feature is the handbag, pocket or make-up bag. (graduated pearlised blue to white and back airless tube with integral massage head to blue) with the product name at the front incorporated into the pump dispenser Yes To: Superblueberries printed with metallised effect. actuator. The pump closure does not sleeping mask A portable twist-up tube format for require priming for use (twisting open, Another US innovation, this time from make-up primer is a new and exciting for example) and the pack is ready to use Yes To, which has launched a skincare development, and what generates as soon as the over-cap has been removed: and beauty range this year, all of which the major improvement rating for the just invert the pack and press the massage have been considerable improvements innovation factor. An easy to hold, stick- head firmly on to the abdominal area to in the sector. The latest is its Yes To type pack format makes the product dispense a blob of gel. This format allows Superblueberries sleeping mask with instantly ready to use and easy to apply quick, simple, one-handed dispensing Greek yogurt and probiotics. The product directly to the face. This convenient-for- while the massage head means that gel is packed in a plastics laminate tube with applying format is perfect for on-the-go use can be applied cleanly without using straight-end seal and an injection-moulded and would be easy to carry, for example, in fingers. The gel dispenses repeatedly white plastics push-pull type closure with a handbag. The applicator stick means that while the massage continues to work. purple-coloured soft brush applicator. product contact with fingers is minimised, This format could have application in The use of a tube with brush-on which reduces the risk of potential mess. the wider personal-care market or the application for a sleeping mask is unusual household-care sector – for cleaning for the category. The brush-on application Tonymoly: Painting products or stain removers, for example. extends portability of the product so it can Therapy Pack be easily used on the go or out of the home. South Korea’s Tonymoly has brought fresh Everpro: Beauty Gray Away As the cap is unscrewed, it pulls up the innovation to the facial-care market with Everpro in the US has developed Beauty base of the brush and unlocks the tube the Painting Therapy Pack, a black-clay Gray Away, a temporary hair-colour stick ready for use. The consumer needs to face mask with bamboo charcoal that

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CPI003_104_Tubes.indd 17 06/12/2018 11:27 Insight > Materials

Dove: DermaSpa PÜR’s easy-to-use Joystick exfoliator and toner. Unilever is one of the world’s leading brand companies, and Dove is one of its pillar brands. It’s launched DermaSpa, a gift set that contains body lotion in an oval PE flexible tube with straight-end seal and an injection-moulded, pearlised dark-blue head, along with hand cream, also in an oval PE flexible tube with straight-end seal and injection-moulded, pearlised dark-blue head. The two tubes have rather different surface feels, with that of the hand cream having a softer touch, while the body lotion is rather matt and feels slightly rough.

Avon: Anew Reversalist Infinite Effects Night Treatment Cream Another major cosmetics player using tubes to enhance its packaging is Avon, which has released the Anew Reversalist Infinite Effects Night Treatment Cream. This two-phase, anti-wrinkle night cream comes in an injection-moulded black PP rigid tube with metallic-red printed decoration to the body and a spring-loaded pump dispensing closure to either end. In consumer trials, Avon incorporated Cambridge Design Partnership’s ‘dialog’ helps to extract impurities and break extremely dry skin in need of maximum smart-technology miniature sensors into down dead skin cells – it’s recommended hydration). The colour of the cap and top packs to confirm whether consumers for helping to control sebum and oil. of the tube matches the colour of the actually followed instructions to rotate Packed in a printed opaque PP product, and is different for every variety. the usage of the two products. Pack laminate flexible tube with straight-end contains sufficient product for at least seal and injection-moulded head, there PÜR: Joystick eight weeks’ usage, based on using two is a comprehensive range of masks PÜR has developed the innovative to three pumps per night. with various colours and formulas/ Joystick, an “all-in-one” deep-pore The stand-out innovation in this functions in the same packaging type, cleansing stick said to have an product is the double-ended pump but with different colour codes. They exfoliator and toner that “foams on claimed to deliver “the world’s first can be “blended depending on the contact to instantly draw out dirt, rotational anti-wrinkle night cream”. The skin condition”. oil and impurities with charcoal and two-part product is intended to be used The pack design introduces the Moroccan lava clay”. in weekly rotation, with phase one used element of fun and encourages The major improvement is the use of for one week, then phase two for a week, consumers to experiment, similar to a twist-up tube for extended portability. then back to phase one and so on. The a painter mixing their colour palette. The format offers increased consumer double-ended tube makes it easy to Blending different varieties changes convenience for applying the product see which product one should be using, the colour of the product. The compared with flexible tubes or unlike side-by-side presentations or following suggestions are listed on the pouches. Slender stick-type pack format separate packs where one could easily manufacturer’s website: black and pink is easy to hold for use and has good forget which stage of the treatment is in become grey (for easily irritated, oily portability for taking on the go or use. The consumer just has to remember skin), yellow and pink become orange travelling. Product contact with fingers to flip the pack over at the start of each (for easily irritated dry skin), white and is minimised, improving the hygiene week. The two-in-one format is handy for yellow become lemon (for dull, dry skin), aspect of application and reducing home storage and convenient for taking and yellow and blue become green (for potential mess. on the go.

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CPI003_104_Tubes.indd 18 06/12/2018 11:28 Special report > Millennial packaging Marketing that meets millennial Millennials make up almost a third of the world’s population, spending about $200 billion each year, so GlobalData Consumer conducted a special report on millennials and needs their purchasing habits in the beauty sector.

n 2018, GlobalData Consumer market (seniors), which has long been As a key part of leading economies, interviewed over 50,000 such a source of wealth for consumer millennials represent a varied and I consumers from over 51 countries goods, is only 17%. enormous potential; 27% of the US and compiled the following report Millennials spend about $200 market, 25% of the UK, 33% of Brazil, based on the responses it received, billion annually and there are 37% of South Africa, 35% of India, with a particular focus on millennials. estimates that they might be worth 29% of China, 26% of South Korea up to $10 trillion worldwide. In more and 24% of Australia. Why millennials? developed regions, they might only According to the latest figures, there account for 13% of the market, Defining characteristics are over 2.5 billion millennials, which but in less developed ones they are According to the GlobalData is almost 33% of the entire global responsible for the spending of 87% Consumer report, millennials are population. By comparison, the grey of all purchases. digital natives, experience-driven and individualistic. The report uncovered the following figures: ■ 64% find being active on social media important (50,000 surveyed) ■ 87% find their looks or appearance in general to be important ■ 60% prefer to be unique and stand out from the crowd ■ 59% find trying new experiences most exciting compared with trying new products.

After compiling and reviewing this informtation, GlobalData has identified four key innovation opportunities to target millennials: ■ community influence ■ healthy lifestyles ■ make it smart ■ male beauty.

Community influence Consumers are influenced by, and value the opinions of, the online community. 63% of millennial consumers agree they are more likely to trust bloggers or user reviews over brand claims.

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CPI003_109_Millenial Packaging.indd 19 06/12/2018 11:39 Special report > Millennial packaging

Online trends and social media Healthy lifestyles increase the number of products they are influencing offline innovation. Healthy lifestyles are infiltrating use in beauty or grooming routines Consumers are often or always beauty innovation. 89% of millennials to improve their appearance: influenced by the following when consider eating healthily important in ■ 59% North America purchasing beauty or grooming creating well-being or wellness and ■ 31% Europe products, according to the report: 34% claim to exercise several times ■ 45% Latin America ■ Millennials: 39% social media, per week. ■ 41% Middle East and Africa 36% video blogs/demonstrations. The majority of millennials prefer to ■ 46% Asia-Pacific. ■ Average: 27% social media, emphasise their natural beauty than to 25% video blogs/demonstrations. mask their flaws. 56% find the concept Males are not immune to image consciousness, which is driving innovation in unprecedented ways. 72% Consumers are influenced by, and value believe their looks are important or very the opinions of, the online community. 63% of important to them, while 44% agree that millennial consumers agree they are more likely to social media has made them more self- trust blogger or user reviews over brand claims. conscious of their appearance. Where next for millennials? When asked if they were interested in of beauty products that help achieve a Combining customisation and beauty or grooming products that follow natural appearance appealing. emerging 3D technologies for trends shown on social media, 39% of production in the home is the next millennials were interested but not Make it smart major innovation. Similarly, gender actively buying products, while 31% 69% of millennial consumers are interested identification will become less were interested and actively buying in smartphone-connected electronic tools prominent, driving the development such products. and devices in beauty or grooming markets. of genderless beauty products. Informed, educated and engaged At the same time, the retail millennials are also driving crowdsourced Male beauty environment will be heightened with beauty innovations. 67% of millennial Individualistic millennials are driving interactive experiences and services consumers find the concept of products the growing male beauty industry. designed to increase engagement as that they had helped create appealing. Many millennial men are willing to part of an ‘experience economy’.

63% of millennial consumers agree they are more likely to trust bloggers or user reviews over brand claims.

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CPI003_109_Millenial Packaging.indd 20 06/12/2018 11:40 Special report > Millennial packaging

Innovation implications: key products influencing the sector

Blogger affiliation Carli Bybel X BH Cosmetics n 5.2 million YouTube followers, 4.4 million Instagram followers n An ongoing collaboration, BH cosmetics has joined forces with US beauty vlogger and make-up artist, Carli Bybel, to create a second eyeshadow palette n Designed to allow users to put her beauty tips and tricks into practice n Capitalises on the blogger’s YouTube following and trust credentials

Partnering with social media influencers The Estee Edit n Targets millennials through its ‘camera-ready’ instant benefit solutions n Focuses on consumer individuality with the #beautyattitudes campaign n Uses Kendall Jenner as brand ambassador to Millennials are estimated to spend $200 billion annually and to be worth up promote products to $10 trillion worldwide, making them a key part of any leading economy. n Infused with crystal for highlight, with solid oil core Kylie Cosmetics of vitamin-rich moisturisers for hydration n The success of the initial ‘lip kit’ product led to the development of an entire Kylie Jenner cosmetics range Technology to optimise beauty/skincare n Capitalises on the social media star’s online influence HiMirror Plus n Identifies skin issues and creates personalised solutions, Using online platforms to co-create tips, and regimes to address them. with consumers n Assesses skin clarity, texture, firmness, brightness, Just Herbs Skin Tint and overall healthiness n India’s first crowd-sourced beauty product n A tinted moisturiser developed in collaboration with Kérastase Hair Coach the brand’s online community n Provides information on hair quality and brushing patterns n Just Herbs users in a members-only Facebook n Accompanying app provides information around external community were asked their ingredient, texture, factors such as humidity packaging and aroma preferences Transforming make-up application Make-up that stays put and protects Color Me Automatic Foundation Applicator from the elements n Uses sonic pulse technology to mimic the tapping Arrow Revive Cooling Cheek Tint technique of professional make-up artists n Breathable, oil-free gel formula n Eight hour coverage, ‘superior’ to results of n Provides a natural flush of colour, built to survive conventional brushes or hands a workout Increasingly sophisticated male beauty items Shiseido Sports BB Cream Yes To Natural Man Charcoal Mask n Specifically targets active consumers n Formulated with charcoal and witch hazel n Uses ‘WetForce technology’ to protect from the n Prevents ingrown hairs and razor burn sun and water Sulwhasoo Inner Charging Serum Make-up to enhance natural beauty n A water-gel-textured serum formulated with Milk Make-up Lip and Cheek Tint traditional Korean herbs n Quick, multiuse lip and cheek tint n Enhances the natural regeneration of men’s skin. n No mirror needed, no brushes needed and easily n Cares for wrinkles and dullness blended with fingertips n “People are more health-conscious these days, and Unisex beauty those decisions show up in your skin,” says Diana MAC Brant Brothers Collection Ruth, co-founder n Range in collaboration with Peter and Harry Brant, New York socialites Skincare meets make-up n Second unisex make-up collaboration by the brothers Glossier Haloscope with MAC n Dew effect highlighter n Using make-up to change traditional standards of n Dual-delivery formula that focuses on nourishing masculinity and femininity the skin and creating a glowing effect Source: GlobalData

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CPI003_109_Millenial Packaging.indd 21 06/12/2018 11:40 Insight > Regulation Legislative round-up From the EU Cosmetics Regulation to halal certification and REACH, the 2018 Cosmetics Business Regulatory Summit covered a broad range of key legislative topics for the beauty and personal-care industries. Julia Wray reports.

he fifth edition of the Cosmetics clearer requirements, clarified the Ray Boughton, toxicology director at Business Regulatory Summit responsibilities of manufacturers, Delphic HSE and the second speaker on T took place on 8–9 October 2018 importers and the responsible person day one, focused on safety assessment at Meliá Barcelona Sky. What follows is (RP), centralised notification, and provided of cosmetic products. His presentation a synopsis of the in-depth presentations greater harmonisation. zeroed in on the margin of safety (MOS) delivered during the event. The regulation is ‘a work in progress under the EU Cosmetics Regulation, which subject to modifications’ and there have is calculated by dividing the hazard posed Europe updates been 30 amendments in the past five by the substance (based on historical test The successes and limitations of the EU years. The most recent surrounded the data and called the ‘no observed adverse Cosmetics Regulation five years on was maximum concentration use of UV filter effect level’ – NOAEL) by exposure (the a key theme at 2018’s summit. MBBT (nano) under Annex VI; peanut systemic exposure dose – SED). Sandra Ferretti, chief compliance officer oil and hydrolysed wheat proteins If the value is greater than 100, the at Obelis Group, opened proceedings under Annex III; and the banning of ZnO substance is generally considered safe. with a look at 1223/2009/EC. Its colourant in applications that could lead But this is deceptively simple, he warned, implementation on 11 July 2013 brought to exposure to the end user via inhalation. noting, “Just having a number is of no use

The successes and limitations of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, ve years after its implementation, was a key theme at 2018’s summit.

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CPI003_106_Regulation.indd 22 06/12/2018 11:33 Insight > Regulation

at all if you don’t understand the science ■ align the supply chain to your own with updates expected to come into force behind it.” internal processes. in November 2019. Speaking on day two, Alan Ritchie, While there are multiple changes, associate of REACH and product All about halal some of the key ones to expect include stewardship at WPS, hypothesised The Indonesian market boasts the the scrapping of the deeply unpopular the impact of the 2020 poison centres largest Muslim population in the world Certificate of Free Sale; new and separate regulation deadline (EU 2017/542) on at 227 million. DKSH’s senior director of labelling regulations (previously under the cosmetics industry. regulatory affairs, Robert Koller, educated Decision 516); and a new process to include The regulation intends to harmonise attendees about Indonesia’s soon-to-be importers of the same product (from requirements across the EU and will implemented halal regulation. different companies) under one notification. be applicable to mixtures classed Indonesia’s Law 33/2014 (when it comes Ulli Haslacher, CEO of Pour Moi (the first as hazardous. into force in 2019) will see mandatory climate-centric skincare brand), mapped The notification timetable is 1 January labelling and certification of cosmetics sold the US regulatory landscape for delegates. 2020 for importers and downstream in Indonesia as halal. The law will demand She flagged the US Fair Packaging and users placing mixtures on the market for clarity regarding raw materials used, Labeling Act (FPLA) – to prevent deceiving consumers; 1 January 2021 for mixtures equipment and processing, and the packaging – as a vital piece of new for professional use; and 1 January 2024 formulation of the final product. legislation, as well as FDA’s Voluntary for mixtures for industrial use. The authorisation body will be the Cosmetic Registration Program and The final presentation on day two Halal Product Assurance Agency several California-specific laws, including discussed the RP role and was delivered (BPJPH), Koller told attendees, while the California Safe Cosmetics Act and by Richard Bartlett, manager for Europe verification will be carried out by the Proposition 65. The competing proposed at Delphic HSE. The RP is a legal or Halal Inspection Institution (LPH). Feinstein-Collins Bill and Hatch Bill natural person (within the EU) able Products from overseas with foreign were referenced, both of which suggest to demonstrate compliance with the halal regulations might be acknowledged mandatory reporting, registration of facilities obligations set out in Article 4 of the in Indonesia, subject to cooperation and ingredient review by FDA. Cosmetics Regulation. between the involved governments. A major move in recent months was RP responsibilities include pre-market Following Koller and also discussing Hawaii’s first-of-its-kind banning of obligations (which includes the all- halal was Salma Chaudhry, founder of sunscreens linked to the death of coral important product information file, or PIF beauty brand Halalcosco. She explained reefs in July 2018, and Haslacher opined and the cosmetic product safety report, that her company’s founding principles that Florida could be next, based on local CPSR), post-market obligations and were halal, safety, quality and the avoidance sales of ‘reef-safe’ sun care. ongoing due diligence. of najis and mutanajis – Arabic terms Dr C Omprakash of Vyomus Consulting A likely future hurdle will be Brexit, meaning ‘unclean’ and something ‘that followed Haslacher. He discussed Bartlett told attendees. The EU and UK started off as clean but has been cross reducing red tape in the $8.5-billion are working towards a transition period contaminated’, respectively. Indian market. In India, cosmetics are until the end of December 2020, during “When you’re choosing a [certification] regulated under the Drugs and Cosmetics which the UK would be considered an body, a big tip is to look at the country to Act 1940 and Rules 1945, with the EU member state. which you are hoping to export and its Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940 covering Post-transition, UK-based persons will specifications” as to which certifying misbranded cosmetics and spurious no longer be considered acceptable as bodies it recognises, she said. cosmetics. The Drugs and Cosmetics an RP for cosmetics on the EU market, or Rules 1945, meanwhile, covers import and for holding PIFs for cosmetics on the EU Regions of interest registration, manufacture, labelling and market. A worst-case, no-deal scenario, The 2019 Cosmetics Business Regulatory packaging, GMP, permitted colours and however, would bring this date hurtling Summit offered in-depth looks at several standards for cosmetics. Market entry forward from December 2020 to 29 markets and their entry protocols. to India can be via three potential routes: March 2019. Representing CASIC – the Council of the the India License can be held by a “non- Latin American Cosmetic, Personal Care distributor authorised agent”, your own Compliance tips and Home Care Industries – Paola Becvar, business, or an importer/distributor. Ken Bubeck, CEO of Sponsor Ithos global regulatory affairs manager of Global, provided a number of top tips for Edgewell Personal Care, talked about the Thwart social media fakers information management of compliance 106-million-population Andean community. Over 2.5% of all estimated world trade is chain, including: Established in 1999 and currently made made up of fake goods and Emma Monks, ■ make use of metrics and dashboard up of Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru, head of trust and safety at Crisp Thinking, ■ use tools that ensure accurate the common cosmetic regulation for the told delegates that the boom in social measurements and efficiency Andean region is Decision 516, which is media-led shopping has created a “perfect ■ plan the product introductory process currently in the process of amendment, storm” for counterfeiting.

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CPI003_106_Regulation.indd 23 06/12/2018 11:33 Insight > Regulation

Monks provided ten social media Dr Baines noted, “We have a problem as She also noted that “the internet is signs that digital teams can look for to an NGO with this particular statement – listening and watching”, drawing attention spot a counterfeiter, which are: we don’t believe that this interpretation to Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop being forced 1. links to unofficial sites or profiles is legally robust.” to pay $150,000 in civil damages after an in Instagram comments One legal issue raised by PETA is that ob-gyn on social media disputed claims 2. follow me’ requests in comments (could the Cosmetics Regulation isn’t a human that the company’s jade eggs could balance be counterfeiters) health regulation (like REACH), but a hormones, regulate the menstrual cycle, 3. unverified accounts marketing one. prevent uterine prolapse and increase 4. whatsApp contact details in comments Moreover, Dr Baines said the joint bladder control. 5. customer ‘callouts’ exposing statement also violates REACH, because There has been a recent vogue for fake accounts REACH cannot be used to circumvent the out-of-this-world products. Playing 6. comments disabled (to prevent requirements of the Cosmetics Regulation. on this, Raphael Sauerwein of KTN Dr. customer callouts) Following this, scientificallyadvanced Neuberger demystified claims compliance 7. adverse reactions to products reported in-vitro methods were covered by Dr Carol via a hypothetical unicorn moisturising on social Treasure, CEO and founder of XCellR8. The face cream. 8. review sites with suspiciously company offers in-vitro tests that provide Theoretically, he said, he could include poor reviews an upgraded alternative to animal tests, the text “with real unicorn tears”, as claims 9. offers that are too good to be true and are also entirely animal product-free. acceptability is based on the “perception of 10. someone hashtagging For example, there are fully approved the average end user”. That said, he jokingly multiple brands. in-vitro tests for three of the key events in told attendees that if he wanted to ensure compliance, he might choose to put: “The When you’re choosing a [certification] body, a unicorn is believed to possess magical attributes, but nobody has ever seen one.” big tip is to look at the country to which you are He also looked into GDPR, hoping to export and its specifications as to which recommending that companies wishing certifying bodies it recognises. to process data should follow the principle of data minimisation and only ask for data – Salma Chaudhry, Halalcosco that is really necessary. Finally, for influencer marketing, Testing in the modern world the skin sensitisation pathway: direct Sauerwein said “ad” or “sponsored” should One snarl of red tape for the European peptide reactivity assay (DPRA) for be superimposed onto photos or videos, cosmetics industry is the need to comply contact; KeratinoSens to measure the while a clean metadata hashtag must be with the cosmetics animal testing and release of pro-inflammatory cytokines; and used in the national language – for example, marketing bans (under 1223/2009/EC) while human cell line activation test (h-CLAT) for #ad (UK), #werbung (German), and so on – also meeting the terms of REACH, the EU dendritic cell activation and maturation. and at the beginning of the content, rather regulation that requires any company While DPRA uses no animal-derived than intentionally hidden. wanting to market a particular chemical components, KeratinoSens and h-CLAT A long-standing but always relevant substance to register said chemical. do, so over the past few years XCellR8 trend is for natural and organic beauty, Dr Julia Baines, science policy adviser has replaced foetal bovine serum (FBS) and Carmen Esteban Sanchidrián, technical for PETA, explained that in 2014 the and porcine culture reagents with human- regulatory consultant for STANPA, reviewed ECHA and the European Commission based or synthetic alternatives. the objectives of ISO’s standard for natural (EC) delivered a joint statement saying and organic cosmetics. that cosmetic ingredients may still require Trend-led claims Unlike standards and certifications from animal tests for the purposes of REACH. Namrata Nayyar-Kamdar, CEO of Shalohm private organisations, ISO 16128 is a “tool It read: “Registrants of substances that and founder of new teen skincare brand to measure natural and organic content”. are exclusively used for cosmetics may Plenaire, discussed Gen Z consumers: a It doesn’t tell manufacturers what they not perform animal testing to meet the lucrative group with total teen spend in the can and can’t use, nor does it set a information requirements of REACH human US reaching $208 billion in 2014. threshold limit for a product to be natural health end points, with the exception of Gen Zers, she said, are hyperaware of or not. Moreover, it isn’t designed for tests that are done to assess the risk to the change they can influence and embrace communication purposes. workers exposed to the substance. inclusive, less gender-binary approaches to Esteban said ISO 16128 – which “Registrants of substances that are beauty. But equally, they lack patience and is divided into two parts, Part 1 for used for a number of purposes and not demand instant fulfilment. Crucially, Gen ingredients and Part 2 for finished products solely in cosmetics are permitted to Zers don’t trust advertisers and, as such, – aims to promote transparency, encourage perform animal testing as a last resort Nayyar-Kamdar added, “we cannot hide innovation and provide wide recognition at for all human health end points.” behind ‘puffery’ about ingredients”. an international level.

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CPI003_106_Regulation.indd 24 06/12/2018 11:33 Events > ADF & PCD New York 2018

Small and sustainable Exhibitors at ADF & PCD New York 2018 were split equally across packaging and dispensing. What they all had in common was providing solutions that offered sustainability, with a focus on challenger brands looking to disrupt the market.

ndie and global brand environment complete with piped-in Sustainability was the major focus for representatives attended ADF & music and an indie designer fashion show 2018, with sessions packed with visitors I PCD New York 2018 at the Altman with models who paraded through the eager to learn more about this overriding Building & Metropolitan Pavilion in exhibit areas on day one. topic of interest. Manhattan, 5–6 September, just a couple Alli McEntyre-Gaharan, event director of days after Labour Day. ADF & PCD of the ADF & PCD Portfolio, said that the On the show floor New York is billed as North and South show was a huge success, with the A walk around the PCD section of the show America’s only dedicated event for the aerosol and packaging portions equally floor revealed lots of first-time New York aerosol, dispensing, perfume and cosmetic divided among this year’s 130 exhibitors. packaging exhibitors, with representatives packaging and design community. In 2019, however, the show will move to a from Asia, Croatia, France and Italy, and Show management put an emphasis on later date, 17–18 September, and plans are with many companies selling direct to the indies this year, with a number of specially to take over the second floor of the Altman US. A number of suppliers were positioning designed programmes showcasing the Building in order to expand the aerosol themselves as disruptors in dispensing increasing demand for more sophisticated and dispensing elements of the show. and decorative solutions, and there was and innovative packaging, and the With content in mind, ADF & PCD New also talk of tariffs in the air. need to compete with the larger brands. York also ran a very popular two-day The MiniMist system from Alternative Organisers also strived to create an upbeat educational seminar programme. Packaging Solutions drew interest for

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CPI003_103_Events_ADF PCD.indd 25 06/12/2018 11:25 Events > ADF & PCD New York 2018

what the company calls “a new dispensing system to disrupt the aerosol industry”. Robert Tate, chief operating officer, explained how it uses a very fine spring rather than a traditional dispensing system, so “you get pure product, nothing else”. You just press down for four to five seconds, he said, and spray in any orientation. Tate also said that MiniMist produces a continuous spray without any chemical propellants, adding, “Its innovative construction remains cost-competitive with a significantly lower carbon footprint than aerosols”. Tate explained that MiniMist’s spray characteristics and customisable design allow for almost any packaging shape and material to suit different brands and product categories. While custom designs were certainly available at the show, there was an emphasis on stock packaging. The winners of the 2018 ADF & PCD New York Innovation Awards, voted for by an independent jury. ABA Packaging showcased a complete line of simple-shaped, stock-line glass sales and marketing, said that caps, jars glass is a new design, available in 10, 15, bottles, which included roll-ons and and more can be decorated and delivered 30 and 60ml. treatment bottles. Liana Marchese, in six to eight weeks. APR Packaging highlighted a patented account executive at ABA Packaging, With talk of potential tariffs on goods concealed nozzle for airless bottles. displayed five new lines of high-end from China, Egan said they had seen The locking feature makes it especially fragrance glass available in low quantities increased interest from brands looking convenient for on-the-go use. Available – particularly noteworthy for indie brands for US-based manufacturers. Located in for bottles in 15, 30 and 50ml, it includes – in sizes ranging 50–100ml and available Dayville, Connecticut, the supplier offers a locking feature: just turn and click, and in six to eight weeks. An assortment of elegant deco finishing with no tooling the actuator pops out to prevent leakage suitable pumps and various decorative investment. Low MOQs stand at 1,000 and spillage. Multiple colours and options were also available. pieces and turnaround is six to eight decorative options are available. At New High Glass, Alonso Herrera weeks. Egan says specialties include Launched in 1991, Taiwan’s Ever Rich spoke of how the company was moving 3ml-16oz heavy-wall PETG recyclable Fountain featured plastic-injection airless towards “a lot more green choices” such jars and urea-based biodegradable caps. bottles in PP, PET and double-wall, as as using recyclable materials including PE Bridging a variety of materials from well as cream jars. A new offering was green and plastic from sugarcane. Herrera glass to plastics, RS Group, represented a two-component bi-injection cream jar; said Europe is far ahead of the US in by Benevolent Beauty’s Maggie droppers and pumps are also available. this way, “but they also have superior Wedemeyer – a seasoned beauty Decorative options include ink printing, hot recycling capabilities and facilities”. New professional who does private label stamping, spray coating, water transfer and High offers jars made of 60–90% recycled packaging projects for brands including digital printing. Double Wall Airless bottles glass, which in some cases have a green Anthropologie – said, “Trump’s new are available in 15, 30 and 50ml; the outer tint. A number of attractive glass bottles tariffs – adding a nickel to a dime per bottle is SAN, the inner is PP. Large and featured wooden cap combos. piece for export tax – is not going to mini sizes are also available. Hangzhou XINLI Plastic & Hardware, affect purchases.” She added, “You can Stražaplastika DD is a plastic tube which specialises in perfume packaging, economically source glass, caps, tubes, manufacturer from Croatia. The 60-year offered a selection of bottles, caps and pumps – all with low MOQs.” old company offers two complete lines deco for fragrance, plastic, glass, metal The ten-year-old company offered and produces more than 25 million tubes and wood. stock packaging “in different shapes a year. It offers tubes, caps and deco, than we’ve seen before”, said Wedemeyer. including silkscreen and hot stamp. Plastics plus They also have the ability to do custom Made in the US and low MOQs were in 3–14 months. A pretty stock cream jar Printing and decorating special points of interest at Colt’s Plastics, was available in 15, 30, 50 and 100g sizes, Sun Chemical highlighted its expertise in where Mark Egan, vice-president of global and a serum and oil-dropper bottle in metal decorating, which can be done on

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CPI003_103_Events_ADF PCD.indd 26 06/12/2018 11:25 Events > ADF & PCD New York 2018

any material. The company showed screen inks that can be used on metal, glass and plastic. The supplier also offers brand protection features integrated into the inks. Textured and screen effects are also available. Val Laquage is a French company specialising in decorating on glass bottles, with techniques including screen printing, hot stamping and automatic coating. The group, comprised of three companies, provides a full range of decoration – coating, silk-screening, hot stamping and pad printing – on glass products for markets including cosmetics, perfumery, pharmacy and spirits. All companies take an An aerosol promoting Pixar Animation Studios, one of the innovations on show at this year’s ADF event. eco-responsible approach, and 100% of their products are made in France. The that is poised to disrupt the packaging factory near Barcelona in Spain supplier exhibited bottles for luxury decoration market”. specialises in the renewable resource, and brands including Creed and Miu Miu. plants six trees for every one taken down. Iggesund was offering a new metal Turnkey development Quadpack is now partnering with East substrate for use on digital press printing, Full-service packaging options were a Hill Industries as a distributor. In the first which laminates metal film to Invercote, popular topic at ADF & PCD, as elsewhere. part of 2019, East Hill is due inventory for calling it MetalPrint. Metalprint Digital was At Essentia Beauty, Cinzia Bessi, sales and a variety of full packs from Quadpack. developed in close cooperation with HP marketing director, displayed some of One beautiful wood product at Indigo. Invercote Metalprint Digital is the projects they had recently completed. Quadpack combined sophistication and adopted to be run without a priming step The turnkey services company works for environmentally friendly material in a in the HP Indigo one shot mode on 10,000 private label brands in categories including compact crafted from wood sourced from and 12,000 machines. The first grade to be make-up, fragrance and accessories. The sustainable forests certified by the PEFC. produced is 300gsm (13.6pt) Invercote G + Italian supplier just opened an office The wooden compact is hewn from maple METPET, which is the standard product; in Shanghai. Offers include digitally wood for an exceptionally smooth finish. it will be available from May 2019. connected packaging, eco-friendly At ADF & PCD, Corpack highlighted its Digital direct-to-shape decoration packaging, packaging concepts and sustainable rubber and cork blend called for mass production was a highlight ready-to-go formulas. One cute product Sughera, which, according to managing at Velox, which offers end-to-end, is a magnetic lipstick package with director Jean Paul Corbeil, can be high-quality printing for long and short a removable mirror that clips on. substituted for plastic components. runs of cylindrical containers such as A New Heat & Dose System was With a natural look and feel, Sughera plastic and aluminium tubes, aerosol available at Klocke, a contract packager is described as “a revolutionary material cans, laminated tubes and more. specialising in unit dose packages. consisting of a synthetic rubber-blend According to Velox, this solution is the The system, powered by Exothermix, is mixed with ground pieces of natural cork. first “to expand digital processes beyond available in sachet and blister formats, and For the first time, a micro-agglomerated short runs to offer a compelling replacement can also be sold at retail. The consumer can natural cork is injection-moulded and for mass-production analogue decoration”. safely heat products prior to application, formed without using glue”. By enabling decoration at full production so it is ideal for products ranging from Aside from its special composition, speed, along with “a dramatic value leap in skincare and haircare to face masks. connecting nature with technology, the form of unique printing features, highly At Quadpack Group, wood made a the distinctive features of Sughera are flexible decoration capabilities, and mass strong statement as a sustainable material good resistance to various elements production economics”, Velox says it option for cosmetics, skincare and and versatility in application. This new “opens a new world of operational and fragrance packaging. material (70% cork, 30% rubber blend) marketing opportunities for converters and Christin Cupo, client account manager uses less petroleum-based materials brand-owners”. The supplier’s proprietary at Quadpack, said, “Wood is a trendy while giving the component a natural DTS inkjet technology is based on material that is on an upswing, especially look and feel. Components can be made uniquely formulated inks and dedicated for indies looking for sustainability and an in a variety of colours. The material has deposition architecture, and “introduces an immediate ‘green’ message.” Quadpack now been introduced in a wide range entirely new approach to digital printing Group’s Technotraf Wood Packaging of cosmetic packaging.

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CPI003_103_Events_ADF PCD.indd 27 06/12/2018 11:26 Insight > Brand protection Full transparency Consumer engagement through apps and social media has become a primary tool for cosmetic brands to spread their message; however, it also gives customers more power to research the history and provenance of their purchases. Neil Thompson explores how businesses are discovering new opportunities to boost efficiency, safety and trust in their leading labels.

ccording to the 2017 Edelman beverages, beauty or hygiene,” ingredients, effect on the environment Trust Barometer study, only noted Ignacio Gavilan, director of and – more recently – the behaviour of A about half of the general environmental sustainability at the companies involved in a good’s production population trusts business, government, CGF, in a blog post. “We are increasingly further down the supply chain, have media and non-governmental calling for transparency and effective given rise to the ‘conscious consumer’ organisations to do the right thing. The responses in the event of any of the information age. Meanwhile, as poll reported that belief in business fell health-related problems, environmental corporations increasingly track vast to 52%, and CEO credibility also dropped negative impacts or labour issues. It’s amounts of data – which they are globally. Transparency has, therefore, vital that businesses establish efficient doing for brand protection, supply chain become a major issue for the world’s frameworks for transparency, traceability enhancement or to establish provenance leading retailers and suppliers, which and information flow for management of – transparency is becoming a normality understand that with today’s shrinking their supply chain networks.” across large parts of the global economy. planet, credibility is increasingly a Yet, public concerns about In a recent post on Sustainable business’s most important currency in a product’s Brands’ website, Kelly Semrau, an online, linked-up world. senior vice-president of “As consumers, we global corporate affairs, want guarantees for communication the products we and buy, whether sustainability it’s food, at SC Johnson, said, “In short, no one knows

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CPI003_110_Brand Protection.indd 28 06/12/2018 11:42 Insight > Brand protection

who to trust. For a business, this translates to mums and dads not knowing what Spotting trends and customer insights brands they can trust to bring into their Amazon’s Carletta Ooton, vice-president for health and safety, sustainability, home. That’s why, at SC Johnson, we security and compliance, recently spoke about transparency in retail for the believe we must be transparent about our Consumer Goods Forum’s GFSI. ingredients, our environmental initiatives “Because customers have an existing relationship with our brands, they feel at ease contacting us. Amazon uses customer reviews as a valuable source of and our supply chain. Transparency is a feedback. Customers love to share their honest thoughts and opinions in product critical way for us to earn trust. reviews. This makes them a rich and abundant source of insights. Reviews are “We strongly believe it’s the right thing very useful to customers looking to make a buying decision. But they’re also to do, and we hope other companies invaluable to us for making informed business decisions.” For Ooton, understanding customers is the key to acting quickly and share this core belief.” preventing further problems. The company uses technology to check information from various sources to help investigations and identify potential product issues. Changing times “We don’t just have to rely on customers calling a service number, or returning Companies are embracing transparency the item to the store in person. We may be able to uncover a potential problem long before it is discovered in another channel,” she stated, also alluding to how through self-defence, in order to protect this maintains safety standards and best practices. According to Ooton, progress themselves from unknown liabilities that will come with thinking hard about technology and data. might emerge in the future and cast the Source: GFSI practices of the recent past in a bad light. In the UK, scandals involving creative counterfeit goods, including the crime crime, corruption and violence. This corporate tax payments, zero-hour networks that operate beneath the radar. is even the case when the companies contracts and the misuse of consumers’ Unfortunately, consumer engagement in involved are in a different industry to their personal data have dominated headlines. brand honesty is often very different to end users, and the goods produced are Meanwhile, memories of leading corporate transparency initiatives that seen as necessary and wholesome. clothing brands being repeatedly caught are meant to reassure them. Expectations are also rising because using dubious sweatshops, or retailers’ “Consumers have low trust in the same technological changes that are food products becoming contaminated companies – along with other altering relations between consumers and with horse meat, have made public institutions,” stated Sarah Holloway, businesses are shaking things up between attitudes towards overseas supply UK strategy director at marketing businesses and their supplier. Transparency chains considerably less trusting. consultancy Futerra, for a Consumer in various industries is being transformed Talk of cheap goods has been replaced Goods Forum. “But they are looking for by the impact of rapid developments: by fears of fraud and malpractice. reasons to build that trust. from satellite imagery used by companies and investors to track the provenance of rare woods, and manage forest-related Consumers have low trust in companies – sustainability initiatives; to artificial along with other institutions. intelligence (AI) that is already helping to integrate the virtual and physical – Sarah Holloway, Futerra worlds in so-called ‘cyberphysical’ systems; and big data – the misuse of However, consumers are no longer “They often have low knowledge of which led to Facebook carelessly supplying passive recipients of goods, who supply chains, and high expectations of our information to private companies like unquestioningly get what they need ability to see and influence where products Cambridge Analytica, fuelling huge political once a week from the local shop around come from and how they’re made. They scandals. Businesses that don’t change the corner. Businesses are now changing want simple, clear answers to the issues to reflect these developments inevitably their practices because their relationship that concern them – which are not always get penalised for it. with customers is evolving in response, the same issues that interest companies – thanks to the rising power of shoppers to and they want that information to be Working together and tackling conduct their own online research into a available on the product in their hand.” wasted opportunities product’s reputation, impact or safety. While transparency remains high on This shift in power is driving positive Where next? the agenda, activists and insiders are change, with many businesses now When it comes to issues such as labour increasingly arguing that more collective disclosing standardised, comparable rights, sustainability or public health, action between stakeholders is a better results and using new technologies such governments and other actors increasingly way forward than confrontation. as blockchain to support their progress expect corporations of all sizes to ensure “Emerging technologies like in bringing transparency to their full transparency throughout their supply blockchain have the potential to bring extended supply chain. This also has the chains, especially for suppliers and the greater trust and transparency to benefit of securing them against fraud or sourcing of commodities associated with business transactions and operations,

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CPI003_110_Brand Protection.indd 29 06/12/2018 11:49 Insight > Brand protection

helping to root out suppliers with poor sustainability credentials,” explained Gavilan. “As blockchain works through a distributed ledger system, where all activity is visible to every stakeholder, there is an opportunity for products to be tracked throughout the supply chain.” Since multiple entities, including businesses, By governments and civil society organisations, all have an interest in the sustainability and ethicality of the

Introducing customised technology that commodities they consume, buy or sell, it makes sense that dispenses a single fragrance sample at the touch of a button. representatives from each sector are brought together via • EASY only one click! the joined-up mechanisms provided by new technologies • NON-INVASIVE consumer choice. • INNOVATIVE experiential solution. like AI or blockchain. This collaboration will help to make supply chains more transparent and secure, rather than wastefully duplicating each other’s efforts out of mistrust. However, industry forums also stress that companies 360º need to find ways to collaborate with rivals when it comes Passionate Passionate Passionate to precompetitive areas throughout the supply chain, using about ideas about full service about impact data that is currently wasted.

Poor data handling, packaging waste and outmoded technologies can lead to spiralling costs and inefficiencies. – Ruediger Hagedorn, CGF

The internet, IT and software are used daily to give businesses insight into their supply chains, but few think of combining their actions with their competition. “Poor data handling, packaging waste and outmoded technologies can lead to spiralling costs and inefficiencies that span entire supply chains,” expressed Ruediger Hagedorn, the CGF’s end-to-end value chain director. “Ultimately, this impacts not just business performance, but also consumer trust.” Meanwhile, supply chains built for shipping bulk – often at predictable intervals with the lowest back-end cost – are increasingly unfit for purpose in a world where customers are willing to pay more for ethical goods, and that demand companies actively root out suppliers with poor environmental or human rights credentials. With big data and AI causing a retail revolution by creating demand-led supply networks, bulk buying is also less efficient than targeted orders to suppliers. Moreover, such indiscriminate methods make it easier for goods of dubious provenance, or ones produced cheaply through unethical labour practices, to slip unnoticed into mass orders that effectively make it impossible to know where an individual material, part or finished product comes from. As technology renders old forms of organisation or Passionate business practices obsolete, transparency no longer has to about sampling be a company’s enemy. Instead, it can be a way of building better connections, improving sales, minimising costs, and guarding against the kind of liabilities that can ruin an excellent brand reputation.

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CPI003_110_Brand Protection.indd 30 06/12/2018 11:48 Company insight An exciting new way to promote fragrances Sampling Innovations Europe introduces the fully autonomous Self Sampling system, which offers customers a new, non-intrusive way to discover new fragrances, while at the same time providing valuable information for brands.

ith over 30 years of experience, Sampling Innovations Europe supplies promotional W samples, gift packs and single-dose retail products specifically targeted to the fragrance and beauty industry. Its wide range of solutions include sachets, vials, miniatures, make-up and fragrance labels, and most recently launched the Self Sampling system for promoting fragrance in-store or at events. With a team of experts in packaging, marketing and logistics, SIE offers a complete full service from the design and production stages, through to the promotion and distribution of high- quality sampling formats. The automated and Wi-Fi-connected Self Sampling system dispenses a single hygienic fragrance sample upon request, providing an easy and intuitive method of trying The Self Sampling system dispenses a single hygienic fragrance sample upon request, providing an easy and intuitive method of trying new fragrances. any new fragrance in the often complicated and crowded environment of a fine-fragrance hall. Each resealable sample used to view campaign videos or images, while the bottom dispensed allows consumers to smell the fragrance and to half of the screen is reserved for the ‘call to action’ try it on the skin if they wish. Once resealed, the sample can touchscreen button to release a sample. be saved for a later trial or to share with influential friends The Wi-Fi connection allows real-time communication and family. The high-quality print and fragrance ensures a with the brand, informing the number and time of samples positive first and lasting impression of brand and product. taken from each device. This valuable consumption data and live feedback enables brands to review impact and Environmentally and economically astute improve conversion rates. It will also alert store staff when This versatile technology is highly economical, requiring the machine needs to be refilled, and can be programmed a minimal amount of perfume oil – only 1kg for up to to request data from consumers before a sample is 200,000 samples. Each machine is preloaded with a reel dispensed, aiding database creation. of 500–1,000 samples, so can be left to run throughout The app enables reports to be generated, outlining the day, reducing the need for expensive product testers. campaign performance by store, region, date, time and By giving consumers a physical sample, it helps to product. Using the app, brands can remotely change reduce the heady mixture of fragrances in the atmosphere the imagery on any Self Sampling machine to enhance of perfumeries or travel retail stores. The samples are the consumer experience and highlight targeted price recyclable and can be used several times. Thanks to promotions or offers. its small size, the machine can be easily integrated into The option to print text or QR codes on the back of existing store furniture or custom designed to fit part of samples means brands can direct consumers online to a wider brand experience. Self Sampling is guaranteed make purchases, discover more, enter competitions and to increase brand awareness, impact and sales, while capture data. Self Sampling offers potential consumers also helping improve the retail environment. a positive, non-invasive and memorable way to discover fragrances. This highly creative and interactive experience Fully connected technology will guarantee brands high awareness and consumer Considerable investment in the design of the Self Sampling engagement when launching new fragrances in-store. machines means that they are fully automated and can now be accessed remotely by the store or brand via their built in Wi-Fi and easy-to-use app. The LCD touchscreen Further information Sampling Innovations Europe will support videos, photos and gifs that can be changed in http://sampling-innovations.com an instant via the app. The upper half of the screen can be

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CPI003_Sampling Innovations Europe.indd 31 06/12/2018 11:55 Insight > Sustainability Rub of the green A shift towards ‘green’ consumerism is evident, with 75% of consumers believing that living an ethical and sustainable lifestyle is important in creating a feeling of well- being, according to primary research by GlobalData. How can ethical and sustainable packaging play an important role in achieving that lifestyle and peace of mind?

ainstream media is driving Reduced packaging Lush Cosmetics is pioneering the consumer change. Blue Planet Brands can prevent waste, starting with zero packaging movement with its M II has drawn attention to the the new product development process. naked packaging of Slap Sticks – a issue of marine litter, leading to a focus A total of 72% of consumers find solid foundation stick packaged in on wet wipes, disposable cups, single- reducing unnecessary packaging a peelable wax handle, and sold in use plastics, chemicals and microbeads important in environmentally friendly reusable and recycled cardboard boxes in plastics that is driving real, sweeping packaging, while 25% of consumers to keep them fresh. change, resulting in efforts to reduce would buy more unpackaged products Ethique in New Zealand distributes and replace those objects with or buy them more often in the future. solid, biodegradable ‘beauty bars’. The bars environmentally friendlier alternatives. are claimed to last longer than liquid-filled Sustainability communicates quality bottled products, and are derived from credentials: 32% of consumers interpret natural sources, and packaged in 100% high quality in personal-care products biodegradable wrappers or compostable, to mean ‘environmentally friendly/ plastic-free boxes. sustainable’, and 21% feel the same in luxury packaging. Reusable beauty GlobalData has identified three Investing in packaging that tackles key opportunities to target the throwaway culture, consumers ‘green’ consumer: were asked how important is it that 1. Beyond plastic environmentally friendly packaging 2. Reduced packaging is refillable and reusable? 3. Reusable beauty. A total of 69% considered the issue to be “extremely important”, 23% answered Beyond plastic “neutral” and only 8% considered the A plastic tax would bring about significant issue “not important”. consumer change; 79% responded that Here are three examples of refillable they would buy fewer products less often make-up that can coincide with luxury: or stop altogether, compared with the ■ Kjaer Weis, US, uses an intelligent 21% who said their shopping behaviour refill system. Its packaging designs would be unaffected. feature metal that can be used again, Some of the companies using this in and its refill cartons can be recycled. their packaging include Tata Harper in ■ L’Occitane has launched Eco Recharge the US, which uses glass for the majority soap and shower gel refills that are of its packaging, with only a very economical and environmentally minimal amount of plastic included. friendly, using less material and energy Virginia Stone, also in the US, uses a to produce than the ‘original’ pack. container for its eye cream that is formed ■ Lancome has enclosed its refill of sand, stone, hemp and water, and is within a glass jar, while the weight Seed Phytonutrients’ body cleanser comes in a 100% recyclable and reusable. 100% recyclable moulded pulpboard outer shell. has been reduced by 39%.

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CPI003_107_Sustainability.indd 32 06/12/2018 11:35 Insight > Sustainability

One core belief among consumers The compact case for Zao’s essence of nature Matte Eyeshadow is made from bamboo cane. is that brands should facilitate easy recycling. A persistent frustration with packaging, voiced by customers, is that the recycling or waste management stream is very hard to understand. What they want to know is that if they put something that is labelled ‘recyclable’ into their recycling stream at home, it will be correctly designated, streamed and actually recycled. 75% of consumers believe it is important that environmentally friendly packaging is recyclable. The primary packaging is a printed A great example of this comes from clear film (made with 30% plant-based Burt’s Bees, which runs a free mailing PE) free-standing, quad-sealed type system with TerraCycle, enabling pouch, with a resealable ‘EZ to Close’ consumers to recycle any and all of Burt’s Velcro-type plastics closure strip with a The closure system reseals the pouch Bees’ packaging nationwide. Another series of small interlocking hook fasteners very efficiently to keep the salts dry and TerraCycle partner is Garnier, which to either side of the top of the pouch. prevent clumping caused by moisture worked with it to create a free recycling Observations from GlobalData are ingress. This negates the need to transfer programme for all beauty packaging. that similar closure systems are found on the salts to a separate storage container so As to what the future holds, GlobalData’s Lundberg Rice, (using Velcro Press-Lok), product branding is retained throughout research suggests the following key areas: Anchor Cheese and Kellogg’s Cereals the lifetime of the pack. ■ Smart and sustainable packaging (both use Aplix Fasteners’ Easy-Lok). will exist simultaneously. The use of bio-based flexible packaging Benefits of aluminium ■ Renewable energy will become 100% in personal care is a major innovation. In Italy, Conter has launched its skincare available and used in packaging Use of plant-based material is brand Tesori d’Oriente (Treasures of the supply chains. communicated to the consumer via a Orient), which includes the Japanese ■ Zero waste will go mainstream, statement printed on the front of the pack. Rituals and Crema Corpo body creams, with a shift towards zero packaging Showing that the company is reducing its enriched with Tsubaki Oil “used in Japan design and exploration of technology reliance on conventional petroleum plastics to treat the skin due to its emollient, like water soluble pods. sends a positive sustainability message. moisturising and anti-oxidant properties”, and with Peony Oil, resulting in a A persistent frustration with packaging, voiced “voluptuous scent”. These products are by customers, is that the recycling or waste free from parabens, synthetic colourants and mineral oils. Packaging is a one piece management stream is very hard to understand. aluminium jar with aluminium screw cap to close, which provides a far more In conjunction with this research, As it grows, sugarcane utilises carbon attractive sustainable material that can GlobalData also provided insight from the dioxide and releases oxygen, giving the be recycled infinitely, as opposed to a lot Pack Track database of key sustainable material a negative carbon footprint. of the plastic tubs that are currently used, innovations and improvements found in Using partial bio-based content allows which are less recyclable, if at all. packaging in 2018. As space is limited, the company to reduce the carbon Observations on this pack include that we will just focus on major innovation. footprint of its packaging and helps to it’s unusual to see aluminium packaging raise the eco-credentials of a brand with in the skincare sector, which is normally Leading by example a natural, organic positioning. dominated by plastic or glass packs (and In the US, Buhbli organics has launched The pouch features the ‘EZ to Close’ to a lesser extent ceramics). Aluminium its unscented Himalayan Bath Salts, Velcro-type reseal strip, which is easier adds a noticeable point of difference for which are USDA-certified organic and and quicker to reclose than traditional the brand. The aluminium pack is lighter claimed to contain up to 84 naturally grip-strips because it does not rely on the than many other materials; therefore, occurring minerals. The sustainable precise alignment of a single strip to be using this format is likely to result part of this product offering comes from effective. The consumer just needs to in reduced transportation costs and

the adaption of Braskem’s I’m green press the two sides of the strip together associated CO2 emissions. All-aluminium Polyethylene, and the pouch is supplied so that the small plastics hooks engage jars are easier to recycle as there are no by Peel Plastics Products. and interlock to give a secure seal. film labels for decoration. Other pack

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elements (such as the inner lid) can be The HDPE liner is 60% thinner than Compact case is made from renewable easily separated for disposal. typical plastic shampoo and shower gel bamboo, a material that the brand-owner bottles, weighs just 9g and can be recycled is said to have chosen for its modern, Planting a seed as a blow-moulded bottle, representing stylish look and for its natural, sustainable Another sustainable solution found in an advantage over previous incarnations credentials. Compact is refillable, making the skincare market comes from Seed of the Ecologic pulpboard bottle. this a sustainable alternative to more Phytonutrients, which has produced a gentle body cleanser for all skin types, packaged in a moulded pulpboard outer A plastic tax would bring about significant shell made from 100% recycled material. consumer change; 79% responded that they would The ecologic logo is debossed at the buy fewer products less often or stop altogether. bottom of each half of the shell. Inside, the lightweight extrusion blow-moulded HDPE inner bottle is made with 80% Each pack contains a sachet of traditional plastics compacts. It can post-consumer recycled material. The heirloom variety herb seeds that the also be used as a durable item, with the same pack format is used for shampoo, consumer can plant in their own garden. colour pans being switched in and out as conditioner, moisturiser and across the Copy on the back label advises, “Once desired depending on the usage occasion rest of the whole range. empty, split the bottle open and discover or the season, for example. A pin can be The shells are produced using paper our heirloom seed packet inside”. inserted through a small aperture in the and corrugated waste that is partly Previous versions of the pack could not base of the compact to push out the sourced from a L’Oreal distribution be constructed on a fully automated line colour pan for refilling or swapping. centre. (For every 7t of L’Oreal waste, at high speeds (the gluing process was The compact is supplied in a small Ecologic makes 70,000 bottles.) This tricky, as was inserting the flexible pouch cotton bag that is designed to be pack was a Diamond Finalist in Dow liner) and depended largely on manual used for carrying the case to protect Chemical Company’s Packaging labour. L’Oreal funded research into a it (in a handbag, for example). Innovation Awards 2018. commercially viable pack format and Group Lea Nature has created SO’BIO, The product claims to be the “first ever construction process that met the a “fresh moisturising” organic shower shower-friendly, post-consumer recycled sustainability requirements of its own cream of which the “biodegradable paper bottle”. Previous Ecologic bottles Seed Phytonutrients brand. formula” is claimed to be natural, have featured glued flanges at the sides The packaging components can enriched with aloe vera, and free from that tended to come apart over time – be separated easily for recycling sulphates, parabens, synthetic fragrances, sometimes even before the pack was purposes by pulling apart the two halves colourants, EDTA and PEGs. Sustainable purchased by the consumer – thus affecting of the shell. The outer shell can be credentials are provided by the extrusion pack appearance, rigidity and handling. composted if no recycling facilities blow-moulded, opaque white ‘100% plant’ exist and the HDPE bottle. The supplier of the bottle is pack meets ASTM D Rebhan FPS Kunststoff-Verpackungen 6868 composting The rectangular and flat bottle is instantly standards. noticeable on the shelf. It also brings a contemporary feel for a rather traditional Aiming for shower product. The square bottle is rather natural awkward to handle, but its flip-top lid sustainability allows easy, one-thumb opening. The plant Cosmetika France bottle uses technology that converts has focused on natural sugars found in plants into the sustainability with ingredients for making fully recyclable its Zao essence plastic bottles. It looks, functions and of nature Matte recycles like a traditional plastics bottle Eyeshadow, which but has a lighter footprint on the planet. is made with 100% This plastic bottle, made entirely from natural ingredients, plant materials, is mainly advertised certified organic and claims through embossed details on either side, to be vegan. The compact which, together with an embossed brand case is made from bamboo cane; logo on the flip-top lid, adds a tactile short strips are glued together with element to the pack. It goes well with an wood glue, and are used for foundations, organic, natural product, strengthening Tesori d’Oriente body cream is packaged in an aluminium jar that can be rcycled inde nitely. powders, blush and eye shadows. its environmental credentials.

34 Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI003_107_Sustainability.indd 34 06/12/2018 11:35 19 77 20 17 OFFSET INNOVATION

Codimag FP.indd 1 06/12/2018 12:00 Time to get serious...

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