Deal to Acquire Tilbury Could Fetch £1Bn

11 May 2020 Issue 17 cosmeticsbusiness.com NEWS

BUSINESS 2 EXPERT ADVICE 7 DIGITAL 8 PEOPLE 11 L Brands and Sycamore How to launch a new social How Pinterest is boosting Revlon re-enters China with terminate Victoria’s Secret deal network aimed at women visibility for beauty brands K-pop star Jessica Jung DEAL TO ACQUIRE TILBURY COULD FETCH £1BN Bids have been made to buy Charlotte Tilbury by beauty’s biggest players harlotte Tilbury, the premium skin and make-up brand, has received offers from Cseveral of the beauty industry’s major players in a deal that could fetch up to £1bn. Unilever, Puig, L’Oréal, Estée Lauder Companies and Shiseido are said to have made bids for the company, according to Bloomberg. Meanwhile, several private equity firms are also rumoured to have shown interest. With discussions ongoing, it is reported the company could select a buyer this month with the help of advisers at Goldman Sachs Group and Jefferies Financial Group. British make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury MBE launched her eponymously-named brand in 2013 and today the brand has 3.4 million followers on Instagram and nearly 190,000 on Twitter. Based in London, the company now has a global presence; last year it expanded into the US with a debut store in Los Angeles. It also entered travel retail for the first time in 2019, through a retail partnership with World Duty Free at Heathrow’s Terminal 5. Charlotte Tilbury has faced issues with copycat brands imitating her hero products and last year the brand won a legal battle against supermarket chain Aldi, which created a £6.99 dupe of the Filmstar Bronze & Glow palette, which typically sells for £49. Direct-selling brand AVON has cast five female ambassadors of UK charity Changing Faces to appear in its new HerStory fragrance campaign. Due to the Covid-19 crisis, Charlotte Tilbury The organisation provides advice and psychosocial support to anyone who stores have been temporarily closed, although has a scar, mark or condition on their face or body. online orders continue to operate. The five ‘inspiring’ women, as Avon describes them, have been cast to The brand has been engaging with consumers share their experiences of their own scars, marks and features. on lockdown via Instagram with a new live chat Brenda (pictured) was diagnosed with alopecia universalis, causing her series called Charlotte Tilbury Happy Hour (see to lose her hair when she was 14-years-old. page 8), while it frequently updates its feed with The new HerStory edp is said to represent ‘inspiration for all women’. posts from the make-up artist herself. The fragrance’s top notes are infused with bourbon pepper, while its heart In a recent post, Tilbury recalls memories of features notes of iris and the base contains patchouli prisma. creating make-up looks for A-list celebrities at the Met Gala.

BUSINESS

VICTORIA’S SECRET TAKEOVER TERMINATED Brands has abandoned its Victoria’s Secret company, our stakeholders and our associates to takeover deal with Sycamore Partners. The focus our efforts entirely on navigating this NEWS Lagreement would have seen the private environment to address those challenges and 11 May 2020 equity firm buy Victoria’s Secret’s lingerie and positioning our brands for success rather than beauty divisions, as well as L Brands’ Pink fashion engaging in costly and distracting litigation to Issue 17 business, in a deal worth US$525m. force a partnership with Sycamore.” cosmeticsbusiness.com However, hostility between the firms emerged L Brands said it is taking proactive measures to in a legal battle last month, when L Brands manage costs and expenditures of Victoria’s accused Sycamore of attempting to back out of Secret to ensure liquidity amid Covid-19, and to Editor the sale due to the coronavirus pandemic. improve its performance once its stores reopen. Lucy Tandon Copp The New York-based investment Features Editor company retaliated with a counter Sarah Parsons suit against L Brands claiming the Reporter Bath & Body Works owner had Becky Bargh breached its takeover terms by Sub Editor closing nearly all of Victoria’s Austyn King Secret’s and Pink’s 1,600 outlets due to Covid-19. Head of Print & As a result of the breakdown, Digital Production L Brands has implemented a major Ross Murdoch leadership reshuffle to ensure Art Editor Victoria’s Secret’s survival as a Sibylla Duffy standalone entity. Digital Production L Brands’ new Chairman of the Megan Daly Board, Sarah Nash, said: “Like all Managing Director retailers, the company faces an Colin Bailey-Wood extremely challenging business environment. Our Board believes that it is in the best interests of the

NATRUE APPROVES UK CERTIFIER Online grocery market FOR NATURAL COSMETICS forecast to grow 33% in 2020 Cosmetics Business Natrue, the international non-profit certifier of HPCi Media Limited natural and organic cosmetics, has approved a The online grocery market in the UK is forecast to Natraj Building new accreditor in the UK and Ireland. grow 33% in 2020 to reach an estimated value of The Tanneries, OF&G, based in Shropshire, already has £16.8bn, bucking consecutive declines 55 Bermondsey St, DEFRA approval and currently certifies around experienced over the last four years. London SE1 3XG one third of the UK’s organic food sector. Both food and non-food purchases, including +44 20 7193 1279 With Natrue approval, OF&G will be able to personal care products, are being bought online [email protected] certify natural and organic cosmetics, meeting the by more consumers as social-distancing increased demand in the UK. continues to be enforced by government. Subscriptions Natrue’s Director General, Dr Mark Smith, Mintel data reveals that 36% of British +44 20 7193 1279 said: “It was clear that as the UK market’s consumers have increased the amount of online [email protected] demand for natural and organic cosmetics grows shopping they do, while 50% are trying to limit the Editorial yearly, having a UK-based certifier was a must for time they spend in-store. +44 20 7193 9502 Natrue, and with over 45 years of experience, Nick Carroll, Associate Director of Retail [email protected] OF&G is a highly reputable certification body of Research at Mintel, described the impact of organic products that echoes our core values.” Covid-19 on the grocery sector as “seismic” and OF&G developed its own cosmetic and body one that will last beyond the pandemic. care standards a number of years ago and decided “Shopper numbers in the online grocery market to apply to be a Natrue-approved certifier. have plateaued in recent years as retailers ©HPCi Media Limited struggled to get new customers to try these Articles published in this publication may only be reproduced with permission. The services,” he said. “The outbreak is bringing a publisher accepts no responsibility for any new audience to online grocery, and this should statements made in signed contributions or in boost the market long term with strong growth those reproduced from any other source. ISSN 2057-1984 forecast through to 2024.” Carroll added: “While there is currently a significant disruption to the online grocery market, with some retailers not accepting new customers, this will ease in the short-term as more capacity is brought online.”

BUSINESS

GLOBAL RETAIL MARKET TO LOSE BILLIONS NEWS IN BRIEF lobal retail spend is forecast to fall Retail Consortium (BRC) issued new guidance US$549.7bn in 2020 as a result of the about how to do so safely, once government and G coronavirus pandemic. health experts give the go-ahead. Helen Dickinson, According to figures from GlobalData, the Chief Executive of the BRC, said: “This guidance is impact of the virus will hit North American and the product of retail’s incredible efforts to adapt to European retail markets the most. exceptional circumstances. The industry knows how Sofie Willmott, Lead Analyst at GlobalData, said: to serve the public while protecting staff and “North America and Europe are set to experience customers alike.” the steepest drops in retail spend forecast to Elsewhere, in the US and parts of Canada, ANISA INTERNATIONAL the brushes manufacturer, is decrease 4.8% and 4.4% respectively. And while certain non-food retail businesses are also preparing supplying 5,000 medical APAC is expected to only see a relatively minor to reopen stores, such as Apple. grade masks and other decline of 1.3%, which looks good supplies to local hospitals in relative to other regions, pre- Atlanta, Georgia in the US, Covid-19 we had forecast the where its headquarters are region’s growth to be 7.2%.” based. The donation will be Prior to the outbreak of Covid- used to support healthcare 19, global retail spend was predicted workers treating those with Covid-19. The company’s to rise 5% in 2020. headquarters continue to The pandemic has forced all remain closed with more retailers that are not deemed than 50 employees working “essential businesses” to temporarily from home. Founder and shut their doors. CEO, Anisa Telwar Kaicker, Many have shifted their efforts to said: “Now more than ever the digital space, with companies we are working together with such as bareMinerals, Deciem and the same goals; stay safe, stay healthy and stay Space NK rolling out virtual steady.” She added: “Giving services and consultations. back is at the core of Anisa In the UK, retailers are preparing International because I to reopen stores after the British believe we’re only as great as the impact we have on those around us.” L’ORÉAL CALLS FOR SUPPORT The owner of beauty retailer Lookfantastic, THE HUT GROUP (THG), has announced FOR HARD-HIT SALON INDUSTRY the launch of a new distribution service, L’Oréal USA is campaigning to help hairdressers where ‘the sky’s the limit’. and salon professionals who are out of work due The distribution service, dubbed THG Air, to the Covid-19 pandemic. is said to have been in trials since the With the new #SupportYourStylist initiative, beginning of the new decade using the beauty giant hopes to encourage members of dedicated cargo planes to service global the public to donate funds to the Professional operations, particularly in Asia. Beauty Association (PBA) Relief Fund and reach This has also led to a distribution deal with a US$2.5m target. PRO CARTON , otherwise Singapore Airlines to charter more than 100 known as the European Funds will be used to support stylists and help flights of goods globally during the Association of Carton and coronavirus pandemic. the salon industry rebound once lockdowns are Cartonboard Manufacturers – “The recent disruption across the airline lifted and restrictions on salon closures eased. has adapted its Trees into industry has brought huge challenges in the L’Oréal has launched a video to support the Cartons, Cartons into Trees movement of goods across the globe,” said initiative, which states: “The salon industry has (TICCIT) education initiative THG’s CEO and founder, Matthew Moulding. been severely impacted by Covid-19. We need to into an at-home curriculum. “This led us to accelerate our trials for support this industry from complete collapse. Your Launched in 2018, TICCIT aims dedicated cargo planes to link together our stylist has been there for you during your most to teach seven to own global manufacturing and distribution 11-year-old children about important life moments: first haircut, hair centres,” he explained. sustainability, renewability and Six distribution sites are planned to open transformation, wedding, in all your life moments. the environment, before later this year. In this life moment, it’s time to give back.” showing them how to plant a L’Oréal-owned brands from its Professional young tree sapling inside a Products division have already donated $200,000 biodegradable carton. As part to support the cause. Matrix, Biolage, Redken, of the roll-out, online support L’Oréal Professionnel, Pureology, Mizani, materials are now available for Kérastase, Shu Uemura Art of Hair, Pulp Riot, free in eight languages for parents, including a Baxter of California and SalonCentric have all programme guide, an editable partnered with PBA. presentation with pictures and Other ways L’Oréal said the public can support notes, and a colour-in poster stylists includes pre-booking an appointment for template. a future date and giving a “generous gratuity”.

BUSINESS

NEWS IN BRIEF SKIN CARE BRAND BABOR REHOMES SOME OF ITS MOST ‘VALUABLE EMPLOYEES’ remium skin care brand Babor is The brand continues to prioritise sustainability supporting the welfare of some of its most as part of its company ethos and says a respect for P‘valuable employees’ ahead of World Bee nature has been “deeply” rooted in its brand Day on 20 May. DNA for 60 years. Rehoming eight bee colonies close to its In September last year Babor strengthened its Aachen headquarters in Germany, the luxury bricks-and-mortar presence with a new flagship brand hopes that the insects will help to pollonise store in Frankfurt, Germany. The 250sqm space the wild service trees, or Sorbus torminalis, which features an ‘experience table’ where shoppers can MONAT, the direct-selling it relies on for the creation of its products. try and test skin care and make-up products. brand, has reported a 48% Horst Robertz, Babor’s CEO, increase in market partners since lockdowns due to said: “Bees are not only a valuable coronavirus were enforced ‘employee’ when it comes to globally. Sales have also producing our raw materials, but witnessed an uptick of 22% important for all of us. in the last month. Stay-at- “75% of the plants we use as home orders have forced food depend on being pollonised. non-essential shops, Bees are important in this process.” including beauty retailers, as Wild service trees are native to well as hair and beauty Europe, parts of Africa and Asia, salons, to close. This, Ros Simmons, Monat’s UK and produce a white blossom in Managing Director, believes spring and red leaves in autumn. is causing beauty experts to Babor planted wild service trees apply their skills to a new on a planation in the nearby Eifel venture for income. “They’re mountains 15 years ago, and today taking their vast experience that bioreserve, which will be the and pivoting their careers to new home for the bee colonies, is direct-selling and using their protected. knowledge and experience to build their own customer base,” Simmons said. She added that she was HAND WASHING BECOMES A PRIORITY FOR confident the brand’s new market partners would stay CONSUMERS AS COVID-19 FEARS LINGER with the business after lockdowns are lifted. ith personal hygiene at the forefront of water, hand sanitiser is now a part of the hand

people’s minds during the pandemic, the hygiene routine for 88% of respondents. INDUPLAST GROUP, the Italian beauty packaging Wmajority of consumers at 40% admit to But away from hand hygiene, how else are company, has reassured now washing their hands six to ten times a day, consumers engaging with beauty while living life customers that the production Cosmetics Business can reveal. on lockdown? and business activities of the Exclusive research carried out in partnership Since the outbreak of Covid-19, the majority of company are continuing with Your Beauty Club showed that 26% of UK consumers said they have not ordered any beauty despite the coronavirus. It said respondents are washing their hands 11-15 times products online, at 58.4%. that despite the outbreak, it a day and 24% are scrubbing up more than 15 However, 60% did admit that beauty and self- does not expect delays in times in an effort to kill the virus. care is a priority for them at the moment, while deliveries to clients. It stated: “We unfortunately cannot Frequent hand washing can wreak havoc with stay-at-home measures are in place. predict the evolution of the skin health, compromising the skin barrier provisions related to this leading to conditions like dry skin and eczema. emergency; therefore, the Reflecting this, 64% of those surveyed said situation will constantly be their hands are more dry or cracked than usual, monitored and all our partners despite 36.8% saying that they always follow up and customers will be informed hand-washing with a moisturiser – 51.2% only of any further change.” sometimes do. Hand wash manufacturers are reaping the benefits of the Covid-19 outbreak, with many retailers selling out in the weeks prior to lockdown measures being introduced. In the past three months, 81.6% of consumers said they have bought a new hand wash, and of those, 88.7% said there were antibacterial or anti-viral marketing claims on the bottle. Although not recommended to replace soap and

COMMENT

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CONSUMERS WAX AT HOME WHAT OTHER CATEGORIES COULD BOOM?

AS ‘INTIMACY INCREASES’ “WELLNESS AND SLEEP” ~ Lucy Tandon Copp, Editor US waxing brand Waksē has seen sales rocket 1,100% during the lockdown period as consumers take hair removal into their own hands. “Sales in certain at-home beauty With beauty salons closed due to Covid-19, the brand revealed that one of its categories such as hair dye and nail products is selling every three minutes. polish have been benefiting from consumers on lockdown, but over time Andrew Glass, co-found of Waksē, told Cosmetics Business that the reason there could be other sectors that see sales rise too. behind the uptick is twofold. “During quarantine we're spending more time than ever Products that support wellness, including those that with our significant others, and for many that means increased intimacy,” he said. encourage sleep, could see renewed interest as “We’ve had many customers write in and thank us because of this reason! consumers take their health more seriously.” “It’s also a time where our worlds have been flipped upside down -– we’re spending a lot of time inside our houses and it’s easy to become a little lazy with grooming. As time goes on people are searching for ways to feel ‘normal’ and for many women wakse is the answer.” “HOME FRAGRANCE” Waksē’s USP is its hard wax beans that come in a range of Instagram-worthy ~ Becky Bargh, Reporter shades including metallics and colourful shades. “The first month of UK lockdown For many other beauty brands, new product launches have been put on hold until saw sales of nail care products the pandemic eases – but Waksē is making the most of a captive audience. skyrocket, while at-home hair dyes Glass added: “We launched the Dessert Collection during the pandemic – it’s a and beauty tools, including hairdresser bright and vibrant collection that we thought would make our customers feel happy.” scissors, boomed. But as consumers make peace Among the collection are hard wax beans in a Banana Split variation, as well as Mint with the idea that they might be at home for the Chocolate and Brownie Fudge. foreseeable future there, could be an increase in more While the brand’s Rose Gold sku is consistently a best-seller, it has also seen an decorative products such as home fragrance.” increase in its Pro and Post skin care products.

RETAIL

NEWS IN BRIEF

TRUE SKINCARE has inked a retail deal with e-commerce giant Amazon. The brand’s waterless formulations, which aim to minimise water wastage, and plant-based natural and organic ingredients are said to treat skin concerns. True Skincare’s line includes cleansers, face oils, masks and exfoliants. “We’re delighted to be launching with Amazon as an official vendor,” said True Skincare’s founder Emma Thornton. “Our vision is perfectly aligned with Amazon’s, as we continue to strive to make genuinely organic, natural and waterless beauty accessible to all with regard to both availability and price.”

S&P, the market intelligence BOOTS has responded to the rise in domestic abuse during the coronavirus lockdown by offering company, has revealed that the its in-store consultation rooms as safe spaces for victims. From the store, visitors will be able to UK retail sector has been hit contact specialist domestic abuse services for support and advice. The initiative has been harder than expected due to the launched in collaboration with UK crisis charity Hestia’s UK Says No More campaign. coronavirus pandemic. The “While lockdown and social distancing measures continue, it is restricting victims of domestic volume of retail sales slumped abuse reaching out to their friends, family and co-workers for support,” said Hestia’s Head of UK 5.1% in March due to the Says No More, Lyndsey Dearlove. “We hope more pharmacies will follow Boots’ lead.” lockdown. However, economists from Econoday estimated sales would only fall by 3.5%, said S&P. Despite the results, ULTA BEAUTY ROLLS OUT NEW Superdrug brings DNA testing at-home beauty tools topped COLLECTION SERVICE SCHEME online impressions and Ulta Beauty, the US’ largest beauty retailer, has to high street with new link up conversions among all rolled out a new service for consumers to shop its Health and beauty retailer Superdrug has consumer products from the products during the Covid-19 lockdown. brought DNA testing to the high street with week beginning 13 April. This included hair scissors, hair The Curbside Pick-Up scheme is an extension a new partnership. curlers, manicure glue and nail of Ulta’s Buy Online Pick Up in Store service, The test from CircleDNA can deliver more art kits. Meanwhile, nail polish enabling shoppers to collect their online orders than 500 personalised reports across 20 genetic sales surged almost 25% as from 350 selected retailers. categories including beauty elements such as skin consumers continued to follow According to Ulta, the 350 stores were chosen ageing, wrinkles and pigmentation, and different the stay-at-home order. based on results of an evaluation of local market health categories. Retailers, including beauty conditions, and the retailer was guided by local The DNA test can also determine if skin cells stores, are now planning for and state authorities. can deflect UV rays, suggesting whether life post-lockdown. CEO Mary Dillon expects to expand the customers might need to use a higher SPF. service to more locations in the US. “We look CircleDNA stated: “The skin care products forward to expanding this service to additional found over the counter are great at controlling stores in the coming weeks,” said Dillon. skin care concerns once you notice them, so “To do this right, we have and will continue to DNA testing is central to understand what your implement robust health and safety protocols skin needs and the products you should buy.” with our local store associates to ensure all orders Alongside the launch, a complementary app are handled following CDC [Centers for Disease will inform users about how to manage their Control and Prevention] guidelines, limiting health and understand their results in the context contact between our guests and teams.” of their lifestyle.

EXPERT ADVICE

Amy Williams is Managing Director at FTNetwork

What does FTNetwork stand for and what is its mission? We’ve teamed up with Female Tribes, which has been running the Women’s Index study since 2014 (the largest living study of women around the world). We’ve taken all of this fascinating research about women’s characteristics, interests, values, passions and lifestyle choices to create a one- of-a-kind social network that focuses on representing females in a broader and more meaningful way.

What is your role at FTNetwork? I am the Managing Director and co-founder. I’ve worked in the industry for almost 20 years, mainly focusing on female initiatives at big media companies, and have seen a lot BUILDING A SOCIAL of change in that time. With my industry experience and existing contacts, an NETWORK FOR WOMEN opportunity arose for myself and my now business partner to FTNetwork has made its debut, with hairstylist Charlotte Mensah and Beauty create and run FTNetwork, Banks’ Jo Jones among its founding members. But what does it hope to achieve? alongside the Global Women’s index study (Female Tribes) FTNetwork. Our research has behind the products, or even interests and goals you’re owned by Wunderman shown that social media is the becoming founders and CEOs. already one step ahead – people Thompson. number one purveyor of As for STEM-related always want to work with negative stereotypes. industries, figures from 2018 people they know and like. Why is it important to have shown that 40% of FTSE connect, inspire and enable Do you have any stats or 100 STEM companies have at Are women being fairly women today? insight relating to women least 33% of women at represented in advertising? To truly inspire and enable working in beauty? boardroom level, which is up Although progress has been women, we need to change the Although the beauty industry from 26% in 2017. made there’s a long way to go. conversation and recognise the has the highest number of Some brands are doing better value of female capital while women in C-suite positions, What advice do you have for than others, with many now understanding that defining this still only sits at 29%! women who aspire to senior championing inclusivity. I look women according to their I think the key here is making management positions? forward to the day when we responsibilities or age is sure that young girls are aware My advice would be to build don’t just simply praise women limiting. Instead, celebrating that there are all sorts of career relationships at every or brands for existing in an their achievements and options available to them in the opportunity, and be humble and industry that historically skews aspirations is what will really beauty industry whether that’s willing to learn all aspects of towards perfection, but instead inspire others and boost getting behind the business and the business from other women create an environment where confidence along the way. This marketing side of things, (and men). When you create women being fairly represented is exactly what we aim to do at helping to develop the science connections based on shared becomes the norm.

DIGITAL

NEWS IN BRIEF A PERSONAL DISCOVERY: SHOPIFY LINKS CONSUMERS TO PRODUCTS WITH NEW APP

-commerce software firm Shopify has worth in just six months to US$3.2bn after the unveiled a dedicated mobile shopping business’ stock skyrocketed, according to Forbes. E app for consumers, called Shop. The German-born entrepreneur’s estimated Shop is designed to help users discover local worth now stands at $5.5bn and his firm has a businesses and receive personalised product market capitalisation of $73.1bn. recommendations from across beauty, fashion BAREMINERALS is one of the latest beauty brands to and home product categories. offer virtual consultations as Traditionally, the business has focused on consumers continue to powering brand commerce channels – including practise social-distancing Kylie Jenner’s Kylie Cosmetics – but due to the at home due to the current stay-at-home order for many citizens, coronavirus. The Shiseido- enforced by the Covid-19 pandemic, Shopify has owned brand’s team of expanded into the consumer realm. make-up artists and beauty “Shopify has focused the last decade on experts will host one-to-one personalised experiences solving complex problems for entrepreneurs by over the phone or video call. making commerce seamless and accessible,” said Isabella Rogers, Marketing Shop’s General Manager Carl Rivera. “Now, we Director of bareMinerals, told want to do the same for customers.” Cosmetics Business: “Our On the ambition to support local businesses, customers are the most Rivera added: “We set out to solve common pain important to thing to us at points in the customer’s shopping journey today, bareMinerals and with beauty while developing specific features, like local being such a personal, emotional and tactile purchase, business discovery, that will be relevant today we have had to adapt in these and in the future.” strange times and build a The app is also said to offer easy-to-use virtual bridge to our checkout and delivery tracking. Last year consumers, so they feel Shopify’s CEO, Tobi Lutke, doubled his net connected in their very own homes.”

THE SOCIETY OF CHARLOTTE TILBURY How Pinterest is boosting COSMETIC SCIENTISTS has launched its inaugural visibility for beauty brands (SCS) has released a live chat series via its video to help educate and Instagram channel. In the last month, social media platform entertain adults and The Charlotte Beauty Pinterest has seen a 60% year-on-year increase children who are on Happy Hour will see make- in searches and sign-ups globally. lockdown at home due up artist Tilbury joined by And with 85% of Pinterest’s audience using it to the coronavirus. The ‘famous friends’ to reveal for beauty and personal care inspiration, there their life lessons and experiences. Scrub Up On Science are opportunities for beauty brands to reach new video stars Sam Farmer, To kick off the series, Tilbury sat down with the founder of the actress and author Joan Collins – who has customers online as coronavirus-induced eponymously-named also appeared in some of the beauty brand’s lockdowns continue. personal care brand for cosmetics campaigns. “A lot of mainstream beauty brands tick the young adults. From his “During these times, the world needs more awareness box but lean on platforms to help kitchen at home, Farmer magic, joy and, above all, happiness,” said drive consideration and ultimately purchase,” demonstrates how to the brand in a statement to Cosmetics Pinterest’s Beauty Partnerships Lead, Alistair make bath bombs using Business. “Charlotte has always believed in Holt, told Cosmetics Business. the power of positivity. bicarbonate of soda, citric “This is an area where they’re particularly acid and rapeseed oil. He “This is a personal passion of Charlotte’s seeing success on Pinterest.” also adds fresh herbs and from the very beginning, her brand has including lavender had joy, happiness, empowerment and Holt noted that video pins have become a key and mint. confidence at its heart.” focus on the site, with views up almost 220% on The weekly stream launched on 1 May via the same time last year. @ctilburymakeup at 7pm. Meanwhile, Pinterest tutorials or step-by-step The launch comes days after the brand guides can earn consumer brands up to 78% announced it had received offers from higher save rates. several beauty heavyweights for a takeover Pinterest’s latest beauty features have also deal that could fetch £1bn. The brand is said to have been made the platform more user-friendly when approached by Unilever, Puig, L’Oréal, Estée discovering products. Lauder Companies and Shiseido, as well as Its skin tone filter allows users to customise several private equity firms. their beauty searches in order to match their complexion and receive targeted searches.

SCIENCE & SUPPLY

CHEMICALS GIANT CLARIANT TAPS APPLE TREES AND SPONGES FOR NEW PLANT-BASED BEAUTY INGREDIENTS The speciality chemicals manufacturer Clariant Active Ingredients has developed two plant-based ingredients

peciality chemicals giant Clariant has unveiled its latest Clariant Active Ingredients recommends EquiScalp for oily scalp beauty ingredients. At the end of April, the Swiss company treatments, sensitive scalp formulas and scalp itch erasers. Slaunched two new plant-based ingredients for skin and hair. Alexandre Lapeyre, Global Head of Marketing, Clariant Active Clariant Active Ingredients, Clariant’s beauty business unit, Ingredients, described EquiScalp and Rootness Energize as released Rootness Energize, an extract of Luffa cylindrica, otherwise examples of using technology to develop sustainable ingredients. known as Egyptian cucumber, a gourd that can also be used as “We apply science to nature to create potent actives effective at a natural cleaning sponge. addressing very specific beauty needs, each one underpinned by Developed for the skin, Clariant claims that sustainably-sourced plant resources’ preservation, traceability, no exploitation of Rootness Energize is rich in bryonolic acid, and can increase cultural land and ecological cultivation,” Lapeyre said. energy production in skin cells and stimulate ATP production. “In turn, Rootness Energize visibly increases skin elasticity and reduces age-related lack of tonicity and firmness – appealing factors for products such as firming creams, skin elasticity boosters and revitalising care products for well-aging skin care,” explained the Muttenz-headquartered company. Reported visible results include more than a 20% increase in skin firmness, tonicity and elasticity with 1% Rootness Energize. For the hair, Clariant Active Ingredients has developed EquiScalp, which is claimed to target tightness, extreme dryness, itchiness and redness of the scalp. Based on stem cells from the Central Asian Malus domestica apple tree, according to the firm, the ingredient protects the scalp as it maintains the level of healthy bacteria. Malus domestica is said to contain concentrated phloridzin, which can control inflammation as well as sebum overproduction.

NATURE’S COLOUR CHANGERS INSPIRE AMOREPACIFIC TO LAUNCH TRANSPARENT INORGANIC SUNSCREEN he R&D Center at South Korean cosmetics company “The recent research results we have announced are very Amorepacific has developed a transparent inorganic meaningful as we came to possess a platform technology to develop Tsunscreen material. innovative inorganic materials,” said Park Won-Seok, Head of Created in collaboration with Sungkyunkwan University, the Amorepacific R&D Center Foundation Innovation Lab. porous micro-material provides a UV ray reflecting solution that “We will continue to verify the potential of this platform through does not leave white marks on the skin. clinical trials on skin.” Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the most commonly used inorganic materials utilised in sunscreen compositions to reflect skin-damaging UV rays. Drawbacks to these materials, however, include clumps forming in the formula and the creation of a ‘white cast’ on application, due to their high refractive index. Dr Li Yan from Amorepacific’s R&D Center Material Lab partnered with Professor Lee Gi-ra and his lab in Sungkyunkwan University Chemical Engineering to conduct a joint research project addressing these issues, the results of which were published in the journal Particle & Particle Systems Characterization. Through this study, the team were able to evenly synthesise and assemble micro-sized spherical silica particles that are hollow in the middle. The film produced from these particles can be adjusted to have even air bubble sizes and gaps in between, allowing the reflection of visible light and UV spectrum rays. Moreover, the team discovered that by matching the refractive index, they were able to more effectively reflect UV rays while ensuring the particles remained transparent in the visible spectrum, in a mechanism similar to the way chameleons or green algae quickly change their skin colour by scattering light.

BRANDS

NEW PRODUCTS

1 ESPA has introduced a new 3 LUSH has introduced a new which is said to contain 40 times minutes, or up to 20, rinse out skin care line inspired by ancient 26-strong naked Bubble Bar more vitamin C than an orange, and wash. The product can be healing traditions. Designed to range to help consumers stay according to Christophe Robin. used daily or as often as needed. offer a ‘sensorial experience’, the relaxed (from £3.95). As part of The new Color Shield shampoo’s products in the Modern Alchemy the range, shoppers can choose acidity levels are said to seal the 6 DR. HAUSCHKA has Collection have been influenced from five categories to vary the hair cuticle to prevent colour loss introduced two new gift sets by Ayurvedic teachings, Chinese bathing experience. This and protect from hard water designed to address skin needs medicine and Shamanic includes Bubbleroons, for a (£29). Meanwhile, the brand’s during spring. Your Time Out Gift practices. Key ingredients in the creamy bath and softer skin; Color Shield mask (£33) works Set (£39.50) offers the brand’s products include flowers, Bubble Brushes, for an artistic to boost the effectiveness of the Revitalising Mask, which works mushroom extract, adaptogenic experience; Bubble Sticks, which shampoo, and its combination of to refine and renew the skin roots and herbs, while they are can be reused; Bubble Bottles, active ingredients are claimed to thanks to its blend of vitamin A; fragranced with ylang ylang, to help relax; and Perfume repair and strengthen hair that and two Eye Revive ampules, to sandalwood and vetiver. Bottles, containing fine has been coloured. restore skin around the eyes and Products include a Cleansing fragrance. Meanwhile, in Launch: out now reduce inflammation. The Milk, Purifying Polish, Anointing traditional Lush style, the Refreshing Gift Set (£25.50) Bath & Body Oil, Nourishing products have been given 5 SUNDAY RILEY has turned houses Dr. Hauschka’s Lemon Balm, Hydrating Lotion and whimsical names, such as A its expertise to a new beauty Lemongrass Vitalising Body Milk Grounding Crystals (from £35). French Kiss, Bubble Bubble Toil category. The new Clean Rinse and Limited Edition Lemon Soap They feature balm-to-oil and and Trouble, and Bathos. (US$48) scalp serum’s blend of to care for skin conditions. milk-to-oil formulas. Launch: out now glycolic acid exfoliates the scalp Launch: out now Launch: out now to remove dead skin cells, while 4 CHRISTOPHE ROBIN has rose clay absorbs excess oil and 7 VICHY has introduced two new 2 EVY has unveiled its latest harnessed the power of salicylic acid unclogs pores. Zinc Capital Soleil Protective Water moisturiser product with added antioxidant vitamins for its new balances the formula to regulate products in SPF50 (£19 each) sun-blocking benefits. The new Color Shield range. The oil and sebum production, and that are designed to give Daily Defense Face Mousse SPF protecting duo is designed to fatty acids alleviate dryness. The lightweight protection from the 50 (£27) is said to moisturise and combat the harmful effects of the serum is suitable for all hair sun’s damaging effects. The bi- soften skin, while blocking out colouring process and shield the types and textures. To use, phase formulas include oil and free radicals and environmental hair from everyday oxidative consumers are recommended to water to provide long lasting stresses. Its blend of sepicalm stresses, such as pollution, apply the product protection; one is made with aims to reduce the appearance chlorine and artificial heat. At the directly onto the hyaluronic acid, to hydrate skin, of pigmentation and deliver a heart of the formulas is a close scalp while hair is and the other with beta carotene, soothing effect, while vitamin C relative to the guavaberry and wet, leave for to enhance a natural-looking tan. protects against premature rumberry, the camu camu plant, three to five The formula also comprises UV ageing and free radicals. The filters, emollient and vitamin E, product can also be used as a as well as Vichy’s signature primer and is claimed to help mineral-rich Thermal Mineralizing soothe irritations that can be Water complex. caused by make-up. Launch: out now Launch: out now

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REVLON has named K-pop singer and actress JESSICA JUNG as its latest global ambassador, as the company officially re- enters China. Jung is the first Asian ambassador for the cosmetics brand. She will represent Revlon in the continent and appear in global campaigns for the Super Lustrous and ColorStay franchises along with other new launches, such as the upcoming Total Color permanent hair colour. “Revlon has always represented the epitome of glamour for me,” said Jung. “As a young girl growing up in San Francisco, I couldn’t help but be dazzled by the bold imagery of iconic women wearing Revlon make-up. To now be part of these legendary Revlon ambassadors is a thrill and an honour.” Revlon left the Chinese market in 2014 and, at the time, cut more than 1,000 jobs. It is now available via retailer Tmall, following the announcement that the Alibaba owned-company aims to add 1,000 international brands to its platform.

ON THE MOVE AT... BRITISH RETAIL CONSORTIUM

Boots’ former Non- support the retail sector through the Dickinson added: “Tony joins the BRC at Executive Director coronavirus pandemic. a crucial time for retail, and I look forward TONY DENUNZIO has “Coronavirus has been a massive shock to to working with him as we continue to deal succeeded Richard the industry,” said DeNunzio. “Its effects with the effects of the crisis and the Pennycook as Chairman are still playing out and creating a huge challenges we will face as public health of the BRITISH RETAIL burden on retail businesses and a threat to restrictions start to be lifted and retailers CONSORTIUM (BRC). the many jobs they provide. get back to delivering for their customers DeNunzio brings with him more than 25 “There has never been a more important again.” She also thanked Pennycook for his years’ of retail experience from company’s time for a collective voice for the industry, “excellent” support during the coronavirus including L’Oréal, ASDA, Dixons to work with the government and other outbreak and paid tribute to his leadership. Carphone and most recently Pets at Home. stakeholders to support the industry In his new role, DeNunzio will work through the crisis and see it play its part in Read more at alongside CEO Helen Dickinson to the recovery of the wider economy.” cosmeticsbusiness.com

WHAT’S TRENDING?

CHANGING THE CONVERSATION Why beauty influencers are changing content strategies during lockdown

Consumers, brands and governments across the world are adjusting to the ‘new normal’ and with them, beauty influencers. The unprecedented social distancing measures brought about by the coronavirus pandemic has caused beauty influencers’ behaviour on social media to change drastically. The number of top beauty influencers mentioning cosmetic brands on social media has fallen steadily over Q1 2020, with March seeing the biggest drop of 23%, figures from influencer marketing platform Traackr reveal. In particular, in March, discussions around make-up and hair have fallen out of favour, as mentions declined by 26% to 81,402 and 28% to 39,733 respectively. Traackr analysed the behaviour of more than 35,000 beauty influencers in the US, UK and France on Instagram, YouTube and Twitter as a whole to discover the findings. “It’s clear that Covid-19 quarantine has been a shock around the world. Whether in response to personal situations, canceled brand trips and other activations, it's not too surprising that we saw a decrease in mentions of beauty terms,” Evy Lyons, VP of Marketing at Traackr, explained to Cosmetics Business. “Everyone, influencers and brands alike, were trying to adapt and avoid coming across as tone with an approximate 10% jump in comments on deaf – it has not been business as usual.” influencers’ Instagram and YouTube posts. Engagement rates on beauty content across all categories are also on the downturn in 2020. Creative content pivots As consumer-facing businesses attempt to create Video prevails content that isn’t ‘tone deaf’ or insensitive, However, a new report by rival influencer influencers are similarly diversifying their content marketing firm Tribe Dynamics indicates that to reflect lockdown life, as well as capitalising on influencers are prioritising video content to make viral TikTok trends to entertain (and maintain) the most of their followers’ new-found spare time. their hard-earned followers. In the US, UK, France and Italy – some of the Beauty influencers are refocusing content to world’s worst-hit countries – there was a notable promote make-up they already own and share increase in beauty-related videos posted on their “quarantine skin care routines,” to help YouTube in March, with daily post count up by followers pamper themselves during the more than 130% compared to 2019. pandemic and prioritise self-care. The increase is likely because consumers Luxury skin care brands in the US were some Skin care brand Tatcha compare YouTube’s longer-form video content as of the most talked about cosmetic companies on received the most earned closer to entertainment, similar to streaming sites media value in March social media in March, confirmed Tribe like Netflix and Hulu, reported Tribe Dynamics. Dynamics. The firm revealed, at more than “While a boost in views and comments could US$10.9m, Unilever-owned Tatcha received be partly an effect of increased free time among the most earned media value (EMV), followed audiences undergoing social isolation, it also by Fourth Ray Beauty ($7.48m) and Ole indicates that audiences are turning to their Henriksen ($5.36m). favorite content creators for not only Social media celebrities have also turned their entertainment, but also community and attention to books. March saw a 43% increase in connection,” Tribe Dynamics stated. influencers posting about book clubs, resulting in Elsewhere on social media, in the US a 31% increase in book-related Instagram posts, Instagram video views saw a 25% uptick along compared to February 2020, reported Traackr.

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