SUMMER 2019

Culinary SUMMER SCHOOL

ALSO INSIDE ... FLAVORS OF | GRANDE DAME NOMINEES | WENTE’S COMMITMENT TO SUSTAINABILITY On the cover: Clockwise: Keio Gayden, Shelley Young, Kari Underly, Rachel Davies, Susi Séguret, Jane Bertch, and Seattle Culinary Academy students. Photo: Katherine Kehrli. This page: Kären Jurgensen’s herbs at Quillisascut Farm School. Photo: Audra Mulkern. Guelaguetza dancers. The woman’s traditional Tehuana dress is from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, where fashions influenced the style of artist Frida Khalo. La Catrina Maria Laurens and El Catrín Dean Laurens. Photos: Oscar Valesquez.

FROM THE EDITOR Embracing Food: Alphabet Soup SUMMER 2 O19 and Grasshopper Pest-o The three Rs of education—reading, writing, and arithme- tic—(e.g., fractions, percentages, and ratios) are core funda- mentals in culinary school. The Dame culinarians profiled in IN THIS ISSUE the feature, “Culinary Summer School” are also champions of four Cs —creativi- FEATURES ty, communication, critical thinking, and confidence—traits that foster success. 4 Culinary Summer School For good measure, shall we include C for chocolate? (Man can’t live on chocolate 12 Wente Vineyards alone, but women certainly can!) Add A for art. A writer for The Boston 2019 Grande Dame Cooking School Magazine (1897) opined that art is as educa- 14 tional as the three Rs. Who would deny that a skilled pastry Nominees instructor can transform cake into ephemeral, edible art? S is for science. The teaching kitchen is an amazing science 16 Flavors of Mexico lab that will ignite sparks of curiosity and innovation. By teaching the ABCs of fine cooking and hospitality, LDEI’s 23 Brock Circle Presents Carla Hall accomplished Dame instructors inspire students to develop a lifelong passion for the culinary arts. Six Grande Dame nominees are also profiled in the sum- mer issue, and one will receive LDEI’s Grande Dame Award. DEPARTMENTS Each woman has created an exemplary, trailblazing body of work and used her experience and skills to help other 18 Global Culinary Postcard women advance and lead. The winner will be profiled in the fall Quarterly and honored at the Nashville Conference. 20 Trends Wente Vineyards, LDEI’s valued partner, received A+ on a sustainability report card, and they achieved a “Certi- Fundraising fied Sustainable” designation on their vineyard and win- 21 ery. Wente’s high level of commitment to sustainability is detailed in this issue. 22 Leadership A Global Culinary Initiative (GCI) postcard from South Florida shares a fascinating account of a unique Asian din- 24 Chapter Programs ing experience. Check online at the LDEI website under Global Culinary Initiative for another postcard on Dames in 28 Member Milestones learning The Art of . An article on “Flavors of Mexico” reviews the vibrant, fasci- 30 In Memoriam nating culinary traditions of Oaxaca—a city of picture-post- card beauty. Oaxacans jest, “the best way to manage a plague 31 Submission Guidelines of grasshoppers () is to eat them.” In a culinary leap of faith, we ate field-to-table, toasted and seasoned chapulines as a snack and even more in salads, appetizers, and sauces. Sometimes, crunchy antennas and foldup legs presented (minor) textural challenges that most Dames met and conquered. The high-protein insects have functioned as an alternative, crisis food since pre-Columbian times. —Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston), Editor, Summer Quarterly

2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE 2019 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS The mission of the LDEI Board is to foster the growth and success of War of the Roses: Women Win the Vote! the organization by supporting the development of new and existing chapters Ann Stratte (Washington, D.C.) and by implementing program initiatives. A recent trip to Nashville brought front and It provides leadership, guidance, center this city’s impact on women’s quest for education, connectivity, and effective communication among LDEI members. equality. My room at the historic Hermitage Hotel happened to be the very one in which President ANN STRATTE Women’s Suffrage leader Carrie Chapman Catt Lobster and Lox LLC used as her headquarters. My view was of the 100 Severn Avenue, #506 state capital where, in 1920, Tennessee legisla- Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 tors were called to a special session to determine (410) 903-2682 | [email protected] First Vice President the women’s right to vote, a legislative event BEV SHAFFER now known as the “War of the Roses." And I’m Owner/COOK.WRITE.TRAVEL.REPEAT. not talking Michael Douglas versus Kathleen Culinary Consultant | Recipe Development R&D | Food & Travel Writer Turner! Supporters of the 19th Amendment 3433 Blake Road were identified by wearing yellow roses, while Seville, OH 44273 those against the ratification wore a red rose. (330) 441-2706 The state of Tennessee was the last and only [email protected] chance for ratification of women’s suffrage. The Second Vice President DANIELLE WECKSLER Tennessee Senate approved the 19th Amend- Plateful Solutions ment, but the House was split. Harry Burn, the 326 Bayview Drive youngest Tennessee legislator, wore a red rose Mt. Pleasant, SC 29464 until he received a note from his mother urging (843) 647-9902 | [email protected] Third Vice President him to vote in the affirmative. His “aye” for the BETH VLASICH PAV amendment broke the tie, and on August 18, Owner/Chef, 1920, women were granted the right to vote. Cooking by Design, LLC 5606 Stage Stop Circle Yes, mother does know best. Austin, TX 78738 In just a few months, we will be celebrating to- (512) 431-8751 | [email protected] gether for the 2019 LDEI Annual Conference in Whitehorse Saloon, where we will dance the Secretary this vibrant city full of history, music, and great night away. JENNIFER GOLDMAN food with a Nashville Chapter eager to share Last but not least, our LDEI Kentucky Chap- Bal-Core Business Advisors 6732 Vanderbilt St their beloved home town with us. I urge you to ter has put together an optional “Bourbon and Houston, TX 77005 take advantage of all that this year’s “Nashville Culinary Tour” promising an adventure you (843) 224-0198 | [email protected] Rhythm & Roots” LDEI Conference has to won’t want to miss. This will begin immediately Treasurer offer. Arrive Wednesday for a special afternoon after Conference and info will be included in SHARON OLSON Culinary Visions Panel with Dame Carla Hall, sponsored by the Brock your Conference package. 445 W. Erie Street, Suite 107 Circle and open to all of our members. Nash- I invite you to honor and celebrate the historic Chicago, IL 60654 ville Conference Co-Chairs Anne Byrn, Mindy city of Nashville with your sister Dames. Our (312) 280-4573 | [email protected] Merrill, and their team have amazing tours, right to vote was won nearly a hundred years Chapter Board Liaisons DREW FAULKNER speakers, and sessions that will keep you en- ago, but we still have plenty of work to do. I Culinary Instructor gaged and inspired throughout your hope to see you in October! 7407 Honeywell Lane stay. The entire Conference agenda Bethesda, MD 20814-1019 is planned with experiences uniquely Thank you for the privilege of serving as Home/Office 301-986-8540 designed with you in mind. And to your president. [email protected] STEPHANIE JAEGER top it off, our Nashville Chapter is offering an Ann Stratte Pear Tree Restaurant after-party on Saturday night at the infamous 1504 Appin Road North Vancouver, BC V7J 2T5 (604) 299-2772 | [email protected] GINA BURCHENAL This photo was taken on Gina's Kitchen Nancy Vienneau’s scenic 4036 Church Creek Point rooftop in April when the Largo, FL 33774 Nashville Board hosted me (512) 658-0338 | [email protected] for a potluck dinner. L-R: Immediate Past President Conference Co-Chair Anne HAYLEY MATSON-MATHES Byrn, Marylou Tate, Emily Owner/Culinary Consultant Frith, Conference Co-Chair 2333 Kapiolani Boulevard #3516 Mindy Merrell, Karen-Lee Honolulu, HI 96826 Ryan, President Ann Stratte, (808) 941-9088 | [email protected] Dee Patel, Nancy Vienneau, Executive Director Nashville President Erin GREG JEWELL Murray, Lisa White. President, AEC Management Resources P.O. Box 4961 Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 456-1851 x1 | [email protected]

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 3 LINAR U Y C

SUMMER SCHOOL Kären Jurgensen “Cookery means…the (Seattle) Seattle Culinary Academy at economy of your grandmothers Seattle Central College and the science of the Quillisascut Farm School modern chemist…” “Knowing takes John Ruskin, from The Boston School Cookbook knowledge”

Kären Jurgensen’s The ten Dame educators introduced here are teaching culinary arts and pathway to deliciousness is deeply hospitality management on the cusp of a high-tech world that promises rooted in sustainability. As an instructor-chef at the robot chefs, intelligent ovens that read recipes, and haptic interfaces that al- Seattle Culinary Academy, she prepares students for low students to build on their sense of taste and texture in a virtual manner. the restaurant industry. She teaches fine dining theory If you forget to buy pasta—just print some with your 3D food printer! and practice in One World Restaurant—one of two While there’s no doubt that technology is intertwined with these indus- student-run restaurants with a global focus. She is also tries, the “low-tech,” hands-on, foundational cooking and management an instructor in sustainable food systems. skills that these experienced professionals share will never disappear. In 2004, Kären implemented sustainability coursework Culinary and hospitality courses today are grounded in tradition with at the academy, making it the first culinary program greater emphasis on global cuisines, nutrition, sustainability, food chemis- in the nation to embrace this type of initiative. The try, and unfolding technologies for distance education and online classes. program also implements sustainability practices in the Our inspiring culinarians educate professionals, amateur enthusiasts, kitchen. She says, “A summer program takes students to students, and children. Some are butchers, bakers, chocolatiers, and cheese- farms in the Skagit Valley nearby. The connection with makers, as well as gardeners, volunteers, organizers, mentors, and musi- local farmers helps them understand what it takes to get cians. Passion is the driving force that inspires them all to lead in culinary food to the kitchen door.” and hospitality education. Kären’s summer breaks are spent in Rice, Washington, The authors regret they weren’t able to fill the summer Quarterly, from teaching farm-to-table intensive courses at Quillisascut cover-to-cover, with additional profiles of amazing Dame educators. Col- Farm School of the Domestic Arts. These culinary im- lectively, they are all culinary elites who stand on the shoulders of great mersions feature cheese making, whole animal butchery, culinary influencers such as August Escoffier—who cooked his way into gardening, bee-keeping, preservation, and foraging. She history and the hearts of Dames; Julia Child; and London Dames Ann explains, “Students discuss their hopes and ambitions Willan, the founder of École de Cuisine La Varenne, Paris, and Alison for creating a food system that respects the earth and all Swan Parente, founder of the Welbeck School of Artisan Food in Notting- its creatures. Students get to run their hands through hamshire, UK. heirloom beans, eviscerate chickens, milk goats, and —Susan F. Slack (Charleston) create delicious meals that they eat together at a shared table three times a day.” 4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Kären collaborated with farm school co- owner, Lora Lea Misterly, to produce the cookbook Chefs on the Farm; her responsibility Jane Bertch was to create the recipes. They also co-authored (Paris) the guide, Rethinking the Kitchen Handbook. La Cuisine Paris “I was inspired to cook by my grandmother 80 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville, who made it an adventure,” she confides. “My mother (a terrible cook) made my presence in 75004, Paris, France the kitchen a necessity, but she was a teacher and inspired me to learn and to share knowl- edge with others.” Kären spent 30 years in the industry before teaching; her favorite cuisines Belle Cuisine are Spanish, Nordic, and Middle Eastern. Continually seeking out professional development opportunities, Kären notes, Française “Last fall, I went to the MAD symposium in Copenhagen and was a delegate for Slow Like other resourceful Dames who have Food at Terra Madre. I involve myself in in- cooked up a dazzling second career in the culinary arts, Jane Bertch took a leap-of- dustry and community organizations to keep creations in hand! Jane confirms, “Of course, connections open to provide opportunities faith to go from banking to baguettes. Hav- ing spent 10+ years working for Citigroup croissants remain on trend. Naturally, macar- for my students. Travel…eyes wide open! ons continue to be the rage, and we under- Whenever possible, find opportunities for in the U.S. and London, she decided it was time to experience her own endeavors. stand why! They are the perfect example of your students to travel.” a pastry that could seem daunting to make In addition to being a Dame, Kären sits Jane explains, “Having the desire to create a business that would bring people together, at home. They can be fickle little things, yet on the Chefs’ Alliance board for Slow Food they are so beautiful and decorative—the USA, the board of The Good Meat Project, I realized the most compelling answer was to create something around a language we epitome of eating with your eyes first! Our and she is involved with Chefs Collaborative chef instructors provide all the tips and tricks and the Southern Foodways Alliance. all speak—food!” She remembers the days spent in her grandmother’s kitchen. “Every- for their success. The freedom to experiment She says cutting edge technology platforms with different colors and flavors when mak- are used in the classroom but points out, one came together around a common table despite their differences. Food is the essence ing the shells plays a part in the fun of the “We cooks are hands-on learners at our experience.” core…to reinforce the theory behind the of culture, particularly in France!” Jane opened La Cuisine Paris, which What else is trending? Jane reports, “Choux lessons…and increase proficiency at a given pastry! There has been a revival of the éclair, skill. A visual helps, but “doing” solidifies provides classic French cuisine and pastry classes in English for cooks and bakers of and as people learn how versatile choux is as the learning experience.” the base of some of their favorite products, Kären’s teaching philosophy includes equity all levels—those who wish to improve their cooking skills and others who are on the e.g., gougeres, chouquettes, profiterols, they and fairness for students; student respect for become increasing popular.” leadership and colleagues, honestly; steward- hunt for an out-of-the-ordinary Paris experi- ence. Bilingual chef instructors help clients For Dames aspiring to a similar career ship; and student responsibility to their half path, Janes councils, “Clients are no longer of the learning process through listening, find the confidence to be able to recreate recipes at home. “The experience isn’t over looking for products or classes—they are active engagement, and participation. looking for experiences. In order to deliver, thinking at the end of their class,” adds Jane. We en- “Students learn to be cooks it takes hard work, cultural sensitivity, and through opportunities to create or perceive courage them to email if they have questions about recreating recipes, and they often send listening, as well as resilience, night vision, solutions to questions and challenges they flexibility, and humor. The only busi- knowing pictures of their creations. They can also encounter, and they become cooks ness that does not succeed is the one that with practice and exposure,” she councils. subscribe to our monthly newsletter.” The client base is mainly visitors looking to doesn’t do what its clients ask!” Kären admits to challenges. “You need to bal- One challenge, according to Jane, is that ance how much of yourself you can give. Make immerse themselves in la vie Parisienne. The school’s philosophy is to create an environ- they work with a very sensitive subject— time to replenish personal energy. I am truly memories. “Often the people that join us are terrible at this.” Google is another challenge; ment that is not only educational and enter- taining but culturally enriching. Jane hints, on a special visit to Paris, and we are honored delivering a lecture while students are googling to be a part of their experience. Naturally, it the details for argument in real time.” “I feel that there is a way to allow people to travel to Paris without having to leave their must be perfect every time, which makes it Summing up the benefits, she affirms, “The rewarding but exhausting,” she admits. best reward is watching a student come into homes—so I am currently exploring just how to do that…stay tuned!” “Welcoming wonderful people from all their own with confidence in their creativity, over the world—seeing them work together or their ability to manage others. When you The French Market Tour and Cooking Class is equally popular. Clients shop with their in the kitchen reminds us that despite teach you are signing up to be an ambassa- where we are from and what we believe, dor for the program, as well as a fundraiser, chef instructor at the market for a menu they choose, then they cook and eat together. The we can find something in common. Julia a career counselor, a job placement direc- Child said it best when she said, ‘people tor, sometimes a health advisor, and always cooking school also offers exploratory food tours in different Paris neighborhoods: Les who like food are the best people.’” a cheerleader… all of which have their —Susan F. Slack (Charleston) rewards.” —Susan F. Slack (Charleston) Halles, the Marais, and Saint Germain. Only eight participants attend a baking class; each Dames Exceptionnelles: Lucy Vanel, Rosa Katherine Kehrli Seattle Dame is Associate one gets personal time with the chef instruc- Jackson, and Allison Zinder of the Paris Dean of Seattle Culinary Academy. tor and assistance every step of the way. Chapter teach culinary arts throughout France. https://culinary.seattlecentral.edu/ Croissant and macaron classes are the www.lacuisineparis.com http://quillisascut.com/ most popular; clients leave with their pastry

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 5 course work, including the technique of applying it by air brushing and compressed Marie A. Stecher air. Molded chocolate has an update in skill sets, while the (Philadelphia) ever-popular salted caramels Walnut Hill College and chocolate-nut bars con- tinue to be the most popular in chocolate shops. Pam is presently leading a graduate chocolatier program to France. Baking— Her first stop is to visit Patrick Roger, the famed Parisian “maitre chocolatier” to taste his Edible Art inspirational pralines and dark chocolate-nut mounds called “rochers.” Another program will visit an estate chocolate farm in Maui. Ever mindful of the impor- Pam Williams tance of electronic media, Pam (British Columbia) places great importance on su- perbly designed web pages and Ecole Chocolat major social media platforms, which emphasize the curricu- lum content. Being on top of new technology is impera- Exclusively tive. “In the last three years,” says Pam, “mobile delivery by responsive and interactive web Chocolate design for small devices and In the Canadian paradise that is Vancou- screens has become key. Less is ver, Ecole Chocolat Professional School of more, and color and visuals are Chocolate Arts teaches everything about paramount.” The third edition ‘the food of the gods.’ Pam Williams is the of Pam’s book Raising the Bar: founder and lead instructor. Her school The Future of Fine Chocolate focuses exclusively on a complete under- will be in available in 2019. “Nothing makes people happier than making standing of the chocolate industry—unlike What advice does Pam them dessert,” says Marie Stecher. This is one of many schools where chocolate studies are have for people embarking the reasons that Marie became a pastry chef. It part of a larger pastry curriculum. on similar careers? Culinary took her a while to figure out what she wanted to Enthusiastic students, who come from education is always stimulating be when she “grew up,” so she quit her job in the around the globe, are taught how to and demanding. It is vital to corporate world and decided to attend culinary make chocolate their career by focusing have commitment, determina- school at the age of 32. on using chocolate of the highest quality. tion, and perseverance. Success As the Pastry Chef Instructor at Philadel- First-class instructors and on-line tu- doesn’t happen overnight. En- phia’s Walnut Hill College, formally called, The tors contribute up-to-date knowledge of joy working with people and Restaurant School, Marie teaches classes in the modern chocolate skills and the choco- accept their foibles. Keep your Associate and Bachelor Degree Programs such as: late business. Pam prides herself on her passion for people alive with pastry techniques, baking science, breads, cakes, constant research in order to add weekly optimism and laughter. And, sugar showpieces, wedding cake decorating, and innovation to each program. And she like the students you teach, chocolate work. is quick to point out that the curricu- take your time to develop Her ten years as a professional chef includes five lum also includes such topics as commer- skills and build up knowledge, years at The Ritz Carlton Hotel in Philadelphia. cial sourcing and purchasing, shelf life, resources, and money. Her last position, before teaching, was pastry chef and recipe development. Chocolate is an affordable for Susanna Foo at her flagship restaurant on The school was founded in 2003. Its core luxury in good times and bad. Walnut Street in Center City, Philadelphia. programs are online and offer hands-on Pam’s teaching mission is to be Since her college days at Rowen University and programs. The fall session of the three- a champion for finely-crafted, then at the Restaurant School, Marie has taken month online Professional Chocolatier fine-flavored chocolate. She continuing education classes in sugar, chocolate, program begins in August, recognizing urges us to open our wallets and cake decorating from the French Pastry that students wish to be finished be- to support the farmers, who School of Chicago, French Culinary School in fore Thanksgiving and use their newly- are growing superbly flavored New York City, Notter School of Sugar, and Val- minted skills over the holiday season. beans from which we make rhona Chocolate Academy. There is so much to learn. At Ecole this most seductive of foods. One challenge she encounters as an educator Chocolat, the latest trend in the use of —Margaret Happel Perry is to get students to focus and do the work. She colored cocoa butter is in part of the (New York) tries to instill discipline and quality by conveying that success requires working hard and getting

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International the work done right. Her motto is elors in Culinary Arts and Foodservice “you have to earn the decorating.” Management. She has taken summer She enjoys seeing how students educator courses at the Charlotte and blossom in their chosen fields and Denver campuses of Johnson & Wales is proud of the school’s graduates University; currently, she is earning a who are doing amazing things in masters degree in Teaching and Learn- the Philadelphia area and beyond. ing Leadership from Liberty University. Her teaching philosophy is to The culinary arts curriculum at Miller encourage students to learn the Grove is based on American Culinary classics and develop a solid foun- Federation standards and has articula- dation which they can build on. tions with Technical College Systems of She emphasizes that “everything Georgia and many fine culinary schools in pastry is about practicing.” in the nation. It is Industry Certified Marie tries to be patient and kind through the American Culinary Federa- since some people take longer tion Education Foundation. The pro- to find their kitchen feet. This is gram is part of a comprehensive high something she knows firsthand as school experience that includes Math, a pastry art student. Science, Social Studies, and English. Her advice to students in the Her work passion is exemplified in pastry industry is to be a sponge. her actions and through the work she Read everything about pastry, the does. She requires students to complete food industry, learn who is doing Keio C. Gayden community service to develop a sense what, take additional classes, and (Atlanta) of responsibility and to aid in their volunteer for special chef events, development and growth as young which is a great way to network. Miller Grove High School adults. Through the 1:1 Portable De- Work under talented people, and Dekalb County School District vice Program, each student is assigned a don’t shy from doing extra work. Chromebook of their own for course- All of these can pay off in the work, and they also have access to end, and you never know who iPads in the classroom for instructional you will meet. purposes. In the future, Marie plans to Cooking up Keio’s philosophy on teaching high take more classes in chocolate school students is, “PATIENCE, and sugar work, baking science, an Education LOVE, DEDICATION, and DETER- and vegan and gluten free baking. MINATION. Each student that walks Long term goals are to write a High school students are cooking their way to through my door is given a fair chance cookbook and travel widely to a bright future thanks to fast-growing culinary in developing a Taste for Success.” teach classes in cool cities and arts programs across the U.S. In a recent study Keio shares, “The greatest reward of countries like the individuals she of 11 and 12th grade culinary students, it was teaching is seeing them succeed in life. follows on Instagram. revealed that their chances for success were As a parent and teacher, I only want Chef Stecher has consistently far more likely if an effective adult role model the best for each and every student been a valued and contribut- was in the classroom alongside the curriculum. that comes through my program. I also ing member of the Philadelphia Someone exactly like Chef Keio C. Gayden, enjoy serving and educating teachers Chapter in addition to her term a forward-thinking culinary arts instructor in and, in the future, I hope to lead other on a previous Board. Walnut the Atlanta Metropolitan area who trains 16- to culinary educators in their quest to Street College, often with Marie’s 18-year-olds to become chefs and food service develop, motivate, and create the future initiative, has hosted and/or co- professionals. Her reputation precedes her—she chefs of America.” sponsored many events on and is both firm disciplinarian and vocal cheerleader She admits, “I put forth many hours off site with LDE Philadelphia. working to equip students with skills they can to ensure that my students are gaining The most recent partnership was a succeed with in the future. Keio says, “Students the most knowledge in and outside unique Les Dames Pure Vegetable may not have the desire to attend a four-year of our culinary classroom. Through a Dinner: A Spring Vegan Soiree. college or university , so a high school culinary partnership with Springer Mountain —Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia) arts program gives them alternatives.” Farm, they have traveled to restaurants Keio says her role, “is to maintain a safe and around the city, worked large city Marie Stecher organized a “Celebra- conducive learning environment where students events, and gained employment with tory Big Cake” competition for the are encouraged to ask questions, show respect for top city restaurants.” 2009 Philadelphia Conference. The the teacher and classmates, and learn about the “This requires me to be persistent, winning three-tiered cake, created by culinary arts in great detail. Instruction involves Marie’s students Hannah Lane and determined, and flexible in my instruc- Kelli Payne, honored seven chapters hands-on participation from the students so they tion and guidance. My students come celebrating anniversary milestones: develop a firmer understanding of the practice. A from all walks of life, but in the end, Cleveland, Houston, Seattle, San culinary arts teacher develops, creates, and modi- they each see and understand how we Francisco, Dallas, Philadelphia, and fies instruction, as needed, to meet the needs of all play an important role in this world. Boston. Dame Alice Gautsch-Foreman all students.” (standing next to Marie) gener- Having this mindset has put me in ously commissioned the cake. Photo: Keio graduated from Culinard at Virginia Col- places I’ve never imagine being in my Donna Connor. lege with an Associates in Culinary Arts, and career as a culinary educator.” from Johnson & Wales University with a Bach- —Susan F. Slack (Charleston)

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 7 Now Lisa teaches all that she has learned to her students in a variety of hospitality Rachel Davies industry classes such as Event (London) Planning, Wedding Planning, Rachel’s Kitchen Travel & Tourism, Introduc- East Finchley tion to Hospitality, Restaurant Operations. She says, “I try to be as honest and real-world as possible with them. A text book is a nice resource to have, A Sugar-Coated but students often want to know the unpolished truth.” Life Despite being a full-time faculty member, Lisa still con- tinues her own education as an event planner. “People often ask me why I continue to volunteer and work contract work. It allows me to continue to learn and network, and in Lisa Buzzelli some cases, the extra money is (Charleston) nice,” she explains. Culinary Institute of Charleston It also allows Lisa to stay current on the rapidly chang- ing technology in the restau- rant and hospitality world. She adds, “Also, by getting The Currency outside of the classroom with part-time work for local event of Volunteerism planners, I am introduced to all sorts of new technol- “Volunteer for any-and-all events, festivals, ogy. For example, volunteer church suppers, school fundraisers when coordination software for a and where you can, and learn from each ex- Festival that has over 300 perience. And while the industry may seem volunteers.” A year of humanitarian work was the spark that glamorous, it is much more than planning a Lisa looks to her students to ignited Rachel Davies culinary career. Graduating party” is the advice Lisa Buzzelli tells every teach her about the latest tech- from Cambridge University with a degree in Theology, student that says they want to be an event nology as well. “Sometimes she decided to spent a year in Zambia with Voluntary planner. it is a “student teaches the Service Overseas—the equivalent of the Peace Corps. A lifelong learner herself, Lisa says that teacher” scenario when they Rachel had no idea how to cook yet! volunteering is what put her on the path to reference technology from She says, “I was living in a village on the Zimbabwe becoming a Certified Hospitality Educa- their work places or even from border with no supermarket, no access to familiar tor at the Culinary Institute of Charleston their smart phones (who knew foods, and no smart phones—I was forced to cook in Charleston, SC. “Throughout my K-12 there was a cheese app?).” out of absolute necessity!” A cookbook for volunteers school days (as far back as elementary When asked about the chal- provided interesting recipes for catching and cooking school) I volunteered for EVERYTHING lenges and rewards of teach- flying ants (“inswa”) and 101 uses for peanut flour. She including collecting the milk money every ing a new generation of event cooked with whatever ingredients she could get her day. I wanted to be involved, wanted to planners, Lisa points to her hands on and started baking bread. “I knew very soon participate, wanted to organize. It was no own upbringing. “Strong work that I had found a true passion. This experience was different at my traditional 4-year college ethic was instilled in me from the best thing I had ever done,” she adds. where I volunteered and organized any- an early age, and I find myself The up-and-coming chef’s cooking skills may have been thing I could. That led me to organizing with little patience for tardiness, slightly ahead of the culinary curve—culinarians now em- and planning the largest intern program unpreparedness, disrespect, or brace edible insects as the future of eco-friendly protein. on Capitol Hill for a U.S. Senator. After general apathy. I must say, some Rachel’s formal training was in cuisine and patis- which I coordinated a year-round culinary of the excuses I’ve heard have serie at Le Cordon Bleu in London. She worked Elderhostel program (50 participants a been quite humorous. On the alongside the Michelin-starred Galvin brothers; at the week, 50 weeks a year) and a weekly chef flip side, the greatest reward Japanese-influenced French patisserie Lanka; and for demo on a local TV news segment for is to watch the “light bulb” of Divertimenti cookery school with London's best chefs, Johnson & Wales. When I wasn’t working, awareness come on when they cooks, and food writers. She notes, “I am always learn- I was volunteering for numerous organiza- see stellar work ethic in a fellow ing—spending the summer at a restaurant in Italy or tions helping with their event planning— classmate or they finally believe apprenticing myself to a butcher. Lowcountry Foodbank, Charleston Wine + that I might not be as dumb as Rachel’s Kitchen is a cookery school in North Lon- Food Festival, Dining with Friends, Taste of they think I am.” don. “It is based in my home kitchen, which makes the Charleston. A pattern formed without me —Danielle Wecksler experiences very personal,” she explains. Classes usually really realizing it.” (Charleston) last half a day and cover a wide range of subjects includ- ing knife skills, world cuisines, and patisserie. They are 8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International offered to groups, couples, individuals, there was an opportunity to became the friends, families, and also corporate first female butcher’s apprentice! Kari groups and hen parties. laughs,“ You can imagine the typical, There are classes on specific interests sophomoric humor of a meat room. Sure, like healthy eating, vegan, and plant- I was harassed, even threatened, but most based foods, which Rachel reports are of all, I was encouraged. There were some trending in the UK. She says there is good men and good butchers. When all a real awareness about sustainability, was said and done, I was well-trained and reducing plastic, reducing waste, and respected.” She thoughtfully adds, “These eating higher-quality food. experiences are the heart of my passion for Rachel is also passionate about using the helping to promote the need for higher finest ingredients—organic meats and paying, mid-skills jobs through increased dairy, free-range eggs, and wild fish where training and education.” possible. She shops locally and always The Range® Meat Academy online con- make produce the star of the show.” sists of Range® Meat Clerk, Range® Meat Rachel’s stunning, contemporary Cutter Poultry, and Range® Meat Cutter kitchen has been featured in one of Beef. Lamb and Pork sections are being the UKs top kitchen magazines. It added this summer, and Kari promises was designed to accommodate classes to keep going. as well as a growing family. Students The school’s mission is to create and admire the beautiful pottery bowls, Kari Underly promote high standards for excellence platters and mugs displayed throughout (New England) and integrity within the butchery trade the kitchen. They are surprised when Range® Meat Academy by providing the most comprehensive and they learn that Rachel made most of respected certificate program and meat them—a hobby that compliments both Chicago, Illinois school in the culinary arts industry. It is décor and cuisine. also designed to help elevate the trade and Running a home school can be chal- develop a skilled work force. It is compre- lenging since most of Rachel’s students hensive, self-paced, consistent, meat-pro- want classes on weekends or evenings. Be curious… fessional certificate training at a fair price. “Juggling work with two children Kari’s favorite (butcher’s secret) cuts (2- and 4-years-old) is always interest- keep moving and include: ing,” she admits. But it gives her the • Pork Bavette (flap steak) freedom to dream up classes, organize, don’t stop! • Pork Tomahawk Chop (long bone) and partner with other chefs in any • Beef Ribeye Cap (Spinalis doors) way she is inspired. Master butcher Kari Underly is the founder of the • Top Sirloin Cap sold as Picanha Rachel is the recipient of several hon- Range® Meat Academy (RMA). She says, “It is an (rump cap in the UK) ors including British Cookery School accumulation of my life’s work after more than 20 • Beef and Pork Bone Broth Awards Finalist: “Best Young Rising years in the meat industry as an entrepreneur, busi- A little over 10 years ago, Kari was Star” and UK Cookery School of the ness owner, educator, and marketer.” In 2017, Kari diagnosed with multiple sclerosis (MS). Year Award finalist: “Best Cookery was honored by Provisioner Magazine as one of 25 “Learning this news changed my ap- School Tutor.” Future Icons of the Meat and Poultry Industry. She proach to teaching,” she confesses. “I feel She advises Dames starting on a is a third-generation butcher and journey (wo)man good that I can still command a class- similar career path, “Find what you're meat cutter with a Bachelor of Science in Business room and plow through an 800-pound good at doing and persevere. It can Administration from Indiana Wesleyan University. side of beef with balance, power, and take time to establish yourself, but if She also has mad skills in software design and devel- I hope, grace! But my philosophy has the feedback is positive and it's work- opment tools. She’s the author of the James Beard changed. I want to continue sharing my ing, then believe in yourself and keep nominated book, The Art of Beef Cutting: A Meat knowledge, but it is an extremely physi- on going. Flexibility, team work, and Professional’s Guide to Butchering and Merchandising. cal job, and the demand is high.” building good relationships—we don't Growing up in the ‘70s, Kari’s role models were Kari continues, “For the past two years, do any of this alone!” Wonder Woman and Charlie’s Angels. “I’m also an I took myself out of circulation to create, Rachel hosted a recent Dames’ din- official card-carrying member of the Lindsay Wag- develop, and finance Range® Meat Acad- ner in her home and Grande Dame ner Bionic Woman Action Club!” she proudly notes. emy online. I am surprised by the amount Anne Willan was the guest of honor. It isn’t difficult to understand why Kari identifies of satisfaction I’m getting from developing Rachel recalls, “Anne spoke briefly with these super heroines—like them, she is strong, the online content.” Maybe one day I can about her life, her remarkable career, empowered, and packs some serious weaponry! make money while sleeping! Some people and her friendship with Julia Child. “My mom was an artist—a sculptor, a painter, call that dreaming. I’ve always lived by the When she talked about discovering and a dreamer,” Kari reminisces. “I watched my creed…a goal is nothing but a dream with her passion for cooking, she asked dad struggle with his career choice as a butcher and a deadline. MS hasn’t gotten the best of who had also found a way of combin- butcher shop owner. We lost the shop when I was me, and I feel good about my long-term ing their passion and their work in a kid...With the goal of putting myself through prognosis. We are online and ready to go!” food? Then slowly, with a smile, Anne college, I worked nights cleaning the supermarket Like her superhero Wonder Woman, acknowledged, ‘Aren't we lucky?' I felt meat department. I took classes at the junior col- Kari has moved to the edge of what is such resonance—finding a passion and lege, but with my paycheck, it would take forever possible, and she is taking a balanced, working in it is SO lucky. to get through school. The solution was a three- defensive stance. She is firmly in con- —Susan F. Slack (Charleston) year apprenticeship program.” trol!” —Susan F. Slack (Charleston) www.rangemeatacademy.com Follow Rachel's Kitchen on Facebook She was encouraged to accept more traditional www.rangepartners.com www.rachels-kitchen.com “female” jobs in the deli or as a cashier. Luckily, SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 9 says, “I adapt as much as possible to the person in front of me, as a musician adapts to the other members of an ensemble.” Shelley Young Activities such as organizing the annual (Chicago) Asheville Truffle Experience, a monthly The Chopping Block Appalachian Culinary Experience (foraging- cooking-dining), or an occasional wine dinner are also on Susi’s busy agenda. She wrote the cookbook Appalachian Appetite: “…Be Fearless Recipes from the Heart of America, and she is completing a chef’s guide to truffles. Susi grew up in Madison Country, North and Above All— Carolina, where she learned to play the fiddle and old-time folk music from her father. The Have Fun!” first English, Irish, and Scottish settlers intro- (Julia Child) duced the ballad to Madison County, which has the longest unbroken tradition of ballad singing in the United States. While touring the world as a bluegrass and country fiddler/ singer/dancer, she planted roots in France, where she stayed busy with her career and Susi Gott Séguret raising children. (North Carolina) During a three-year hiatus from 20 years Seasonal School of Culinary Arts in France, Susi helped direct the Bluegrass Asheville, Ithaca, Sonoma & Paris and Country Music Program at East Ten- nessee State University. She returned to Paris to earn diplomas in Gastronomy from Le Cordon Bleu and Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne. Bluegrass “This was not my particular background,” admits Susi, “although I had grown up on Kitchen a self-sufficient farm and knew how to raise vegetables and livestock. I also learned from The backdrop for Susi Gott Séguret’s al 20+ years of eating my way around France, fresco tablescape is a panoramic view of and trying to recreate the flavors I had experi- the majestic Blue Ridge Mountain peaks enced when I returned to my own kitchen.” shrouded in a bluish-grey mist; sunshine Susi earned a Certified Culinary Profession- bathes the landscape with a golden glow. al (CCP) designation through the Interna- This could be the setting for any one of tional Association of Culinary Professionals, Twenty-two years ago Shelley Young Susi’s themed culinary programs: Turning a and she is a Certified Specialist of Wine created The Chopping Block in a two- Basket into a Banquet; Appalachian Inno- (CSW) through the Society of Wine Educa- story, 1000-square-foot antique home on vation; Cooking the Elements; or Gather- tors. She is currently president of LDEI’s a residential street in the Lincoln Park area ing and Garnishing, to mention a few. North Carolina Chapter. of Chicago. The Chopping Block (TCB) If music is included, so much the better! Her passions include a farm and garden to is Chicago’s busiest recreational cooking The accomplished culinarian is also an keep free of weeds, aging parents, and three school. As CEO/Founder of TCB, Shel- award-winning fiddle player and songwrit- children in college. Lack of time is her biggest ley spends most of her time focusing on er. She succinctly sums up the enduring challenge, but the many rewards include the media, public appearances, and strategic connection between Appalachian music friendships she has forged and, “seeing the joy planning. Shelley’s mission is “to get the and food,—“Food feeds our body, while and solidarity of faces around the table …with country cooking.” music feeds our soul.” ingredients sourced mostly out the back door.” Shelley grew up in Iowa and spent her Susi is the founder/director of The Seasonal “Find a niche—something that drives you, youth in what is now called “homestead- School of Culinary Arts (est. 2005). Based then share it with abandon!” she counsels. ing.” Between her family and grandpar- in Asheville, she chooses a different theme “Adaptability is key to any successful endeav- ents, they grew or raised all the food each year. Week-long, hands-on immersion or…being able to improvise and enjoy the they needed to sustain the family. Shelley sessions are held quarterly (one each season) bumps in the road gives way to a happy life!” graduated from Iowa Culinary Institute in with a variety of culinary experiences. Cook- Susi concludes, “Twenty-one years of living 1986. To hone her business and commu- ing the Seasons is the theme for 2019, and on another continent has definitely influ- nication skills, she participated in Vistage the summer session highlights Asheville’s enced my angles of approach to food and International and Landmark education. wealth of chefs and beverage experts. everything else. I like to call what I do now She was a professional chef for 17 years In the Ithaca, Sonoma, and Paris loca- “Frappalachian” (Appalachian with a French and while she was a personal chef opened tions, Susi partners with existing offerings, twist), for most things pass through those TCB which rapidly became an award- including tours of wineries, creameries, two strong cultural filters. Each person who winning cooking school in Chicago distilleries, oyster farms, culinary classes, crosses our paths is influenced by a differ- and nationwide. Her accolades include and top restaurant experiences. ent set of variables—this is the beauty of Women Chefs and Restaurateurs Educa- Susi’s classes are designed to broaden the our multi-colored world!” —Susan F. Slack tor of the Year and the Chicago Tribune student’s palate, lead them closer to the (Charleston) food source, and develop their skills. She www.schoolofculinaryarts.org 10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Good Eating Award. In 2015, purchase from us to be a real teach a class even when atten- ment where they can thrive Chicago Magazine recognized tool and asset.” dance is low. Cancelling classes and produce is a day in, day TCB Boot Camp as the Best TCB uses mobile technology to gives the school a bad reputation out challenge.” Many of her Cooking Class. make it easier for students to see and will deter students from chef-instructors have gone on to In 2003, TCB added a second the school calendar and recipes enrolling in the future.” establish their own restaurants. location in the family-oriented ahead of time on their own Wine is often served at many of Shelley has an Innovation Lincoln Square community. This devices. The Mobile Club allows the classes and can either make Center in Michigan where she location is known for its grilling students to receive rewards for a festive atmosphere or create an spends half of her time. In ad- classes and intimate environ- sharing their experiences live amusing interruption. During dition to working on her first ment. In 2005, Shelley closed through the mobile app. The one class at the Lincoln Park lo- book, she wants to create a video the Lincoln Park location and next school upgrade will be a cation, a student who drank too educational platform and con- moved the school downtown to wireless POS system for shop- much went upstairs to use the duct research and development the world-famous Merchandise ping. restroom. The students on the for a proprietary line of prod- Mart on the Chicago River, Shelley’s philosophy is to teach first floor kept hearing footsteps ucts. If Shelley isn’t in Michigan which quadrupled the space. what the students want to learn, above them going back and forth or at one of her cooking schools, The Loop location has multiple not what you think they need; and after several minutes, Shel- you might find her hiking the restaurant-sized classrooms that classes need to be relevant. She ley had to retrieve the woman Appalachians, demonstrating can accommodate corporate advises those who want to start a who couldn’t find her way back recipes at Chicago’s Green City events, as well as a variety of cooking school to remember that downstairs. Market, participating on the classes from Basic Knife Skills, the hours are long. “You need to Shelley chooses instructors Lincoln Square Chamber of French and Italian cooking, Ra- have self-confidence, be flexible, who are passionate and want Commerce, supporting Com- men Nights, and Date Nights as and tenacious especially when to tell a story. She reveals, “The mon Threads or her Neighbor- well as the 5-Day Boot Camp. applying for permits and dealing blessing and challenge of this hood Improvement Association, Kids classes are popular in the with building and health inspec- business is the people. Trying and assisting with Les Dames summer and teens enjoy baking. tors. You can’t always afford to to do right by people, treat Chapter fund-raisers. TCB holds 300+ classes and hire instructors to teach every them right, motivate them, —Toria Emas (Chicago) special events monthly. Shelley class. To keep costs down, you train them, inspire them, keep www.thechoppingblock.com wants “any culinary items you have to be able to step in and them, and provide an environ-

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 11 Wente Vineyards Announces 2019 Sustainability Report Card Fifth generation family winegrowers lead the way in innovative ethical practices and sustainability programming

As of 2019, Wente Vineyards, America’s oldest, continuously operated family winery, is among only 2 percent of California wineries to have achieved the Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing (CCSW or “CERTIFIED SUSTAINABLE”) designation for both its vineyard and winery. But in a world filled with thousands of wine options and a slew of product features and benefits unique to each, why does this matter? Based on The Conference Board® Global Consumer Confidence Survey, over 80 percent of respondents feel strongly that companies should help improve the environ- ment, and the majority of respondents also feel it is “extreme- ly” or “very” important that companies implement programs to improve the environment.

Wente Vineyards was one of 18 pilot wineries to achieve CCSW status in 2010, and beginning with the 2017 vintage, the winery will include the official CCSW CERTIFIED SUS- TAINABLE logo on all packaging, in order to better commu- nicate its practices to consumers and help create more demand for true sustainable wines. Any winegrowing operation hoping to attain the CCSW designation must meet a stringent set of criteria in order to preserve and protect their land, water, and air, but also demon- strate ethical leadership with how they treat their employees and local communities. The Wente family’s philosophy on sustain- able practices dates back to 1883, when Carl H. Wente arrived in Livermore Valley and realized the only way to guarantee the next harvest (and the next ten after that) was to treat the land and the people who tend to it as responsibly as possible. Today, fifth generation winegrowers Karl & Niki Wente have whole-

12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International heartedly taken the baton, and Recent additions to recently upgraded the winery, vineyard, and tasting rooms to the sustainability meet (and exceed) their fam- “menu” at Wente ily’s CCSW-inspired goals. Vineyards include: Today, with the help of the forward-looking fifth genera- WATER USE tion and the foundations of EFFICIENCY the generations before them, the Wente family remains a SOIL & NUTRIENT leader in ethical practices, MANAGEMENT producing high quality grapes and wine. They are protect- ENERGY ing the environment and enhancing the communities EFFICIENCY in which they live and work by implementing sustainable SOLID WASTE winegrowing practices that are MANAGEMENT environmentally sound, so- cially equitable, and economi- BENEFICIAL PESTS cally viable. In short, Wente & BIODIVERSITY Vineyards continues to push the envelope in redefining how COMMUNITY sustainability is measured.

CHARLES WETMORE ERIC’S CABERNET SAUVIGNON CHARDONNAY 2014 2016

FAMILY OWNED. ESTATE GROWN. CERTIFIED SUSTAINABLE. LEARN MORE AT WENTEVINEYARDS.COM WENTE VINEYARDS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 1466 © 2018 WENTE VINEYARDS.

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 13 2019 GRANDE DAME NOMINEES

LDEI AND THE ENSATIONAL IX

Sne of the sensa- S tional women who ETTY is profiled on these LICE two pages will GAUTSCH- BFUSSELL become Les Dames A NEW YORK d’Escoffier Inter- FOREMAN national’s 15th SEATTLE New York Grande Dame. Dame The honorary title A founding Emerita is bestowed each year member of the Betty by LDEI in recognition of Seattle Chapter, Fussell was a woman’s extraordinary and Alice Gautsch- born in unusual contributions in the fields Foreman’s long California of food, fine wine and other career has taken and has beverages, nutrition, her from coast returned the arts of the table, to coast. After there after and other fields graduating from an illustri- that relate to these Purdue and ous career disciplines. the Wharton in New York. Betty is a pioneer in cu- The nominees Graduate linary journalism and memoir writing. are selected by a Management Program at the University One of her first works, I Hear America chapter—sometimes of Pennsylvania, Alice became an assistant Cooking, celebrated regional cooking. by more than one, and food editor at McCall’s magazine. There, In Food in Good Season, she talked they do not have to be a she learned recipe development and food about the importance of eating seasonal member of LDEI. Only one woman will photography. She then moved on to posi- foods that are locally grown decades receive the LDEI Grande Dame title, yet tions at General Foods and Campbell’s Soup before the concepts were embraced by each nominee is an exceptional leader Company, where she added marketing and the food community. who has achieved numerous successes publicity skills to her arsenal. The Story of Corntraces the history of that carry the hallmark of a winner. In 1978, she joined Evans Pacific in Seattle corn from Mayan agricultural rituals The nominees and their nominating and directed food-related public relations to the dominance of high-fructose corn chapters are: Alice Gautsch-Foreman programs involving Alaska Seafood, Wash- syrup and its impact on the American (Seattle); Betty Fussell (New York); ington Potatoes, Northwest Cherries, and food industry and diet. Betty then Jean Mackenzie (Cleveland); Nora California Table Grapes. After 10 years, wrote Raising Steaks: The Life and Times Pouillon (Washington, D.C.); Sue she founded her own company, Gautsch of American Beef, an exploration of the Huffman Robison(San Francisco & Associates, Inc., with clients including ethical and environmental implications and Sacramento Chapters); and Gloria Westin Hotels, Best Foods, Sunset magazine, of modern meat. Her 2016 collection of Smiley (Atlanta). and Redbook magazine. Along the way, she essays, Eat, Live, Love, Die, was praised The new Grande Dame will join the worked with Dianne Hogerty of Family by NPR, The New York Times, and company of 14 other Grande Dames Features, who designed and directed edito- countless reviewers. who have received the title since 1993. rial content for the brands Alice represented. Betty has garnered IACP’s Jane Grig- Prior to that year, before Interna- Alice has been a longtime patron of LDEI son Award, the Food Arts Silver Spoon tional was formed, 11 worthy Dames Conferences, contributing to the Brock Award, and the James Beard Award of distinction were bestowed by their Circle and many other LDEI programs for Culinary Journalism, as well as chapters with the designation “Grande and projects. She also founded the Alice being inducted in the Cookbook Hall Dame.” Now, let’s celebrate and honor Gautsch-Foreman Endowed Scholarship at of Fame. Through her work, Betty has the amazing women chosen as the the Seattle Culinary Academy. helped the world recognize that food 2019 Sensational Six! Editor writing should be taken as seriously as Nominated by the Seattle and Philadelphia —Susan F. Slack. writing on any academic subject. Chapters Nominated by the New York Chapter Photo: Amy Dickerson

14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International media. In 2017, the James Beard Founda- nary personalities.” tion presented her its Lifetime Achieve- Sue was an award-winning food editor EAN ment Award, celebrating her outstanding at The St. Louis Globe-Democrat; a highly career as a restaurateur, environmental and regarded corporate executive for Con- JMACKENZIE organic advocate, and author. In 2018, sumer Affairs at Best Foods for eight years, Nora’s native country of Austria presented then she was a marketing director for the her with its highest honor, the Decoration esteemed French Culinary Institute. At age 61, when of Merit in Gold. Amina Harris, president of LDEI Sac- many would A loyal member and generous supporter ramento says, “Sue believes in the power be consider- of the Washington, D.C., Chapter for 28 of Les Dames in a way that is infectious.” ing retirement, years, she has hosted numerous events and Amina points out that Sue has spearhead- Jean Mackenzie fundraisers at Restaurant Nora for LDEI ed a strong, viable scholarship committee started Macken- and other charitable organizations. for Sacramento’s fledgling chapter. Under zie Creamery in In collaboration with LDEI Past Presi- Sue’s direction, the scholarship commit- Hiram, Ohio. dent Ann Yonkers, Nora inspired and tee will award over $20,000 this year. Sue This was in 2007, helped create FRESHFARM Markets, is member of the San Francisco Chapter just five years D.C.’s leading farmers market network, and the Sacramento Chapter—which she after taking chee- and jumpstarted the regional farm-to-table helped found in 2015—and prior to that a semaking classes. movement. Nora’s second book, memoir member of LDEI’s New York Chapter for Only the second goat cheese creamery My Organic Life: How a Pioneering Chef more than two decades. licensed in the state, it fired up the entire Changed the Way We Eat Today (2015), Nominated by both the San Francisco and industry. In 2008, there were only six recounts her remarkable journey from Sacramento Chapters artisan cheesemakers in Ohio; by 2013, Austria to becoming one of America’s most there were 18. influential chefs. Jean designed the creamery to be eco- Her core message is that “health is friendly. Out of the gate, Mackenzie wealth,” and organic and local food are the Creamery captured awards, winning key ingredients in building a healthy life. LORIA over chefs and consumers alike. She also In addition to her work supporting the or- founded the Ohio Cheese Guild to sup- ganic food movement, Nora is a champion GSMILEY port and encourage the state’s burgeoning for a cleaner environment. ATLANTA cheesemaking community. Nominated by the Washington, D.C., Gloria Says Beth Davis-Noragon, chapter Chapter president, “Jean is an inspiration to women Smiley has everywhere. She re-invented herself with shone bril- stellar results and her positive attitude liantly—be- infuses everything she does.” hind the Besides a slew of awards, good employ- UE scenes. Her ment opportunities for her rural neighbors, food styling and business relationships with nearby SHUFFMAN for cookbooks farmers, regional chefs, and local manufac- and chefs on turers, Jean has enthusiastically enriched ROBISON media tours SAN FRANCISCO her community. She firmly believes she reads like a SACRAMENTO “was put on this world to make cheese.” Who’s Who in the culinary world: Julia Child, Lydie Nominated by the Cleveland Chapter Sue Huffman Marshall, Jacques Pepin, Nicole Routhier, Robison has an Anthony Bourdain, Giada De Laurentiis, impressive record Ted Allen, Aliza Green, Amy Sedaris, of diverse experi- Anne Willan, Patricia Wells, and Nigella ORA ences which have Lawson—not to mention Suzanne Som- given her broad mers, Richard Simmons, and Naomi Judd! NPOUILLON perspectives that She was a founding member of the Atlanta WASHINGTON, D.C. are the hallmark Chapter and has continued to be an integral of an LDEI force volunteering and advising at the local Nora Pouillon, Grande Dame: and international levels when most others the first Ameri- from being a would be resting on their laurels. can chef to open founder of The Says Stacy Zeigler, LDEI past president a certified organ- Television Food Network to serving as and member of the Atlanta Chapter, “Gloria ic restaurant, has President of IACP, from working 10 years has a commitment to learning, education, been recognized as food editor of Ladies’ Home Journal and inspiration that is unwavering. She is for a lifetime to co-chairing one of LDEI’S signature an amazing friend, mentor, and member of of professional programs, The Legacy Awards. the culinary community. She has taught and achievement by On a one-to-one level, Sue has been an inspired thousands over the years. As she governments, outstanding mentor for many others who turns 80, Gloria’s commitment, if anything, top culinary then went on to notable successes,” says has increased. She is a force and completely organizations, Jerry DiVecchio, LDEI’s 2001 Grande dedicated to her craft.” environmental organizations, and the Dame. “She is a master at connecting. In television, her choices made stars of culi- Nominated by the Atlanta Chapter

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 15 THE FLAVORS OF MEXICO—Savoring Oaxaca By Susan Fuller Slack Festive dinner tables and dazzling banners culinary tools like those Carina’s ancestors (Charleston) of tissue paper cuttings heralded the magnifi- used. Oaxaca’s moles include: Amarillo, Verde, cent, traditional cuisine of Quinta’s Execu- Negro, Colorado, Coloradito, Chichilo, and People don’t take trips….trips take people. tive Chef Daniel Francisco Torres Magro in Mancha Manteles (tablecloth stainer). Read John Steinbeck special collaboration with Luis Gonzales, ex- The Art of Mole at www.ldei.org under Global Ciudad Oaxaca de Juárez (or ) ecutive chef of Puesto Restaurant Group, San Culinary Initiative. The home of Carina and is the capital of Oaxaca—Mexico’s most diverse Diego. We ate beef salpicón with chapulines her husband, master weaver Pedro Montaña, state with 16 recognized ethno-linguistic groups. (grasshoppers)—a high-protein food Oax- includes a weaving studio and galleria where It is a place of mystery, myth, and charm, aqueños are addicted to! Chilled avocado soup we shopped for textiles. which 53 lucky Dames and guests who attended preceded two types of mole (MO-lay) over We also visited a textile cooperative where the Mexico Chapter’s third annual culinary chicken. One was rich, sweetly smoky, and Zapotec dying, spinning, and weaving adventure soon discovered. The spectacular event black; the other creamy white with ground traditions remain intact. Each family uses was organized by Dames Araceli Ramos and nuts. Mole is Oaxaca’s quintessential dish. individual patterns and dye methods. We Maria Gomez-Laurens, with Rocio Meija Araceli Ramos introduced Oaxaca Mayor learned about natural dyes from indigenous and other Mexico Dames. Alejandro Murat Hinojosa, and state Tourist plants and insects: e.g., indigo (blue); Mexi- Division Secretary Juan Carlos Rivera Castel- can tarragon (bright yellow); indigo-tarragon DAY ONE—WEDNESDAY, MARCH 6 lanos. A special dance performance featured (green); marigolds (orange/yellow); and The beautiful Quinta Real Oaxaca hotel the costumed folk dancers of La Guelaguetza, walnut husks (brown). was built in 1576 as the Convent of Santa Oaxaca’s largest festival that originated as a pre- The most important organic, red dyestuff Catalina de Siena. Checking in, we received Hispanic celebration honoring Centéotl, the is cochineal—tiny, beetle parasites on refreshing, damp, amenity towels and Zapotec goddess of . Accompanied by a cactus pads. The beetles produce red carminic passionfruit cocktails. The hotel’s Spanish traditional brass band, groups from different acid as protection from predators. They are colonial grace was evident in historic frescoes, regions of Oaxaca performed lively dances. hand-picked, dried, ground, and mixed with arches, tiled fountains, and courtyards ablaze DAY 2—THURSDAY, MARCH 7 water to obtain dye. Cochineal, second only with flowering vines. The welcoming Mexico We entered the hotel’s Cocina Antigua to silver as Spain's most valuable New World Dames greeted us with hugs and handwoven, (Old Kitchen) to find cazuelas (clay pots) of commodity, was used for dying the uniforms blue tote bags filled with gifts. traditional breakfast dishes: in banana of the British Army Red Coats and the Royal We gathered in La Capilla, the former con- leaves, mole, verde, frijoles, huevos Canadian Mounted Police. The colorant vent’s chapel, for a cocktail reception and din- rancheros, , and cactus breakfast (carmine) is used in your favorite red lipsticks ner. Traditional cocktails and mescal—Oax- soup, to mention a few. and many foods. aca’s signature spirit—were provided by Casa After breakfast, we traveled to picturesque We strolled along Oaxaca’s cobblestone streets Cuervo during the evening and throughout Santa María del Tule to briefly visit El Árbol to Casa Oaxaca where we dined on a roman- the week. Glassware was rimmed with sal de del Tule, a Montezuma Bald Cypress that is tic rooftop terrace with panoramic views of gusano ( salt)—mescal’s insepa- the world’s widest and oldest tree—nearly the historic city. Executive Chef Alejandro rable companion. We viewed an exhibit by 2,000 years old. We continued east to Te o - Ruíz Olmedo, an international ambassador of local artist Alejandra Villeas in the choir area; titlán del Valle, an ancient weaving village , was named one of 50 people at the opposite end of the cavernous nave, founded by the Zapotecs in 1465. transforming Mexico. Our multi-course dinner artisans displayed fine Oaxacan handcrafts. We spent the day at Tierra Antigua making included stuffed chile de agua with ceviche and Colorful alebrijes—hand-carved, mythical, mole and squash blossom soup with Cocinera sweet-sour passion fruit sauce; coloradito mole wooden animals represented Oaxacan spirits (chef) Carina Santiago Bautista. We worked with suckling pig, and ike jime catch with green of the otherworldly kind! in an outdoor Zapotec kitchen stocked with mole and squash blossoms. The art of ike jime 16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International THE FLAVORS OF MEXICO—Savoring Oaxaca

is a Japanese method for harvesting fish. Dessert aprons with colorful ribbons braided in their homage through respect and humor. Applica- was guava tart with rose petal ice cream. hair, the women shaped clay by hand without tions of colorful makeup, “jewels”, and floral DAY 3—FRIDAY, MARCH 8 using a potter’s wheel. headpieces completed the transformations. During breakfast at La Capilla, Zapotec Dinner, with traditional Oaxacan music, was The painted ladies and gentlemen joined a curanderas (natural healers) arrived from the served on red clay dinnerware purchased by Calenda parade prearranged by the Mexico Center of Traditional Indigenous Medicine LDEI Mexico to support the red clay artisans. Dames. The celebration included musicians; in Capulálpam. Maria and Dean Laurens led The menu featured two soups and four moles: larger-than-life dancing puppets; huge, round the Dames into a sacred circle of herbs and huachimole, chileajo amarillo, mole de laurel and spinning globes; and twirling girls with flower flickering candles to experience la limpia de Mixteca—prepared by a recipe from Chef Olga’s baskets perched on their heads. Many towns- huevo, a spiritual cleansing with eggs, me- 93-year-old-grandmother. Dessert was burnt milk people joined the parade of dancing Dames. A dicinal herbs, and mescal. The ancient ritual ice cream topped with prickly pear cactus sorbet. grand finale of whirling, fizzing pyrotechnics eliminates negative energies, bad vibrations, The meal ended with chocolate de agua, a ended the festivities with a bang! and stress. The women healers demonstrated beverage prepared from cacao beans that the The revelry set the mood for a farewell dinner the preparation of ointments and creams with Dames toasted, peeled, and helped grind into at Casa Rocha, a beautiful private garden in natural ingredients such as aloe, rose pet- with almonds and cinnamon. The use Tlalixtac de Cabrera. Music was provided by als, rosemary, and rue. We purchased many of water allowed the incredible richness and youth artists and dinner was orchestrated by fragrant products to carry home. flavor of the chocolate to shine. Señora Deyanira Aquino, a renowned Chef Feeling totally relaxed, we floated off to tour DAY 4—SATURDAY, MARCH 9 called “La Teca,” short for Juchitecas—the Mercado de la Merced with Chef Olga Cabrera At 9 a.m., our coaches departed for Monte strong, entrepreneurial women of the Isthmus Oropeza of Tierra del Sol—Casa Restaurant Albán, the ruins of a ceremonial city that the of Tehuantepec. She collaborated with Puesto and Chef Luis Gonzalez. Later at Tierra del Zapotec (Cloud People) began constructing Chefs Luis Gonzalez, Katy Smith, and Erik Sol, we sipped tejate (tay-HA-tay) made from on a mountaintop 500 years B.C. It overlooks Aronow to present 11 magnificent dishes. pulverized cacao beans, nixtamal corn, mamey the Valley of Oaxaca, where in 1529, Spanish The distinctive cuisine of the Isthmus is seeds, and rosita de cacao, a floral-tasting white Conquistador Hernán Cortés founded pres- corn-based. We ate tamales with yellow mole, flower that forms the drink’s frothy, textured ent day Oaxaca City. The two cities are now stuffed with Oaxacan chile rellenos, and surface. The labor-intensive drink was once UNESCO World Heritage Sites—a conflu- a wedding stew of beef, chilies, and fruit. Every reserved for pre-Columbian royalty. ence of two millennia of culture and history. bite was exquisite, but the delicate, fresh corn Chef Olga is from Oaxaca’s Mixteca region; Lunch at the beautiful La Catedral Restaurant tamales with crema were a standout. A lovely Mixteca cuisine is the specialty of her restau- featured salad of baby lettuce, corn flowers, and dessert was prepared by Pastry Chef Aronow Veronica Castro rant—former home of Mexico’s Grammy-win- bean flowers with maguey syrup vinaigrette and Mexico Chapter’s pro- ning singer Lila Downs. Our family-style, patio and a flakey cheese pastry; vibrant green mole vided outstanding Diamansol Coffee. www. lunch included Oaxacan grilled meats, chilies, with succulent pork ribs confit; and prickly pear cafediamansol.com/en/nuestro-cafe/ and vegetables with chapulines, quesillo (string sorbet with an airy, tejate foam topping. After an evening of dining, dancing, toasts, and fireworks, our Oaxacan adventure came to cheese), and chicharrón (crisp pork skins). DAMES ON PARADE Afternoon educational sessions included an end. We spent every moment exploring the Around 4 p.m., makeup artists arrived at the rich cultural life and “infinite gastronomy” of Olga’s class on preparing cacao beans for hotel to transform each Dame into La Ca- chocolate; Master Potter Angelica Vasquez’s Oaxaca—Mexico’s hottest, new food destina- trina—an elegant, often flirtatious, skeleton lady tion—and we all wanted to learn more. An presentation on her red clay art figures; and a who is a popular symbol of the Day of the Dead demonstration on making red clay pottery by old saying throughout the region holds great religious holiday. La Catrina reflects the comfort promise…“if you eat a single chauplin (grass- the "Women of the Red Clay” from San Mar- with which Mexicans accept death and pay cos Tlapazola. Looking festive in embroidered hopper), you are destined to return!”

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 17 SOME SAY, “I LOVE YOU.” SOME BAKE CAKE.

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18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International An Ancient Chinese Perspective on Dinner Tibetan Prayer Ceremony at the Tibetan Prayer Wheels in front of the restaurant. The prayer of gratitude By Irene Moore celebrated Thanksgiving—as we spun the prayer wheels, (South Florida) prayers of good wishes went out to the universe. The South Florida Dames held a The Soul Tavern founder, Dr. Jason Gordon, explained five-course dinner at Soul Tavern Global Culinary each course and how it balanced all Five Elements. As a in November, 2018, based on the Initiative Doctor of Chinese Medical Qigong and an acupuncture Five Elements: earth, metal, water, physician, his clinical practice integrates Chinese medi- cine, energy medicine, herbal medicine, sup- wood, and fire. The Five Elements is plementation, bodywork, a 5,000 year-old system yoga and meditation. Dr. for balancing the body, Gordon believes in age-old mind, and spirit, and it practices that new science is based on the concept doesn’t disprove; the funda- that we are made of the mentals of healthy eating; same organic material and a healthy lifestyle that as nature; therefore, will stand the test of time. our body, mind, and

spirit are expressed just as nature is. Dinner began with a

GLOBAL Tibetan CULINARY Prayer postcard Wheels.

A Journey Through the Five Elements

EARTH METAL WATER WOOD FIRE Mushroom Ceviche Hemp, Nut-Crusted, Beet Gazpacho and Black Risotto Dessert was was paired with Edamame Cakes were Smoked Celery "Cheese” included chanterelle Guava Cheesecake “Nourish Earth Herbal served with shaved paired with “Cultivate the mushrooms, sautéed with Coconut Elixir” to prepare the fennel, Granny Smith Middle Elixir” to promote kale, lemongrass, Rum Curd. digestive system. apples, celery root, and gratitude and love. and lemon. black tahini.

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 19 TRENDS

LDEI 2020 Trends Survey Coming Soon!

By Danielle Wecksler (Charleston Chapter,) LDEI Second Vice President, and Gina Burchenal (Austin Chapter), LDEI Chapter Board Liaison It was the year 2000, and a diverse panel of Dames from various chapters and profes- sions assembled to provide insight into millennium trends in global gastronomy. Futuris- tic ideas (at the time) such as “food as medicine,” “vegetables as the star of the plate,” “reus- able materials,” “online grocery shopping,” and “an increase in wine bottles with screw tops and synthetic corks” were discussed. Fast forward and the year is now 2019, and those ideas that seemed so far off in the future are now a reality and really quite common place. Did those Dames back then have a magic crystal ball foretelling the future? Of course not! Our members have always been at the fore- front, not just observing, but setting the trends in the food, fine beverage, and hospitality industry. Which is why Chapter Board Liaison Gina Burchenal and I are once again conducting the LDEI 2020 Trends Survey this summer. We want to gather YOUR insights and knowledge into what is trending now and into the future, and compile it into our annual Trends Report. the LDEI brand. We want the email will contain a link to the Photo: Unsplash, Edgar media and influencers to think Castrejon. L-R: Dames Carolyn This comprehensive report online trends survey, and we O'Neil, Sue Huffman, Dianne Ho- will be sent to multiple media of Dames when they are looking would appreciate if you could gerty, Jan Hazard, and Carol Haddix. outlets and social channels, and for “expert” opinions! take the time to complete it. We be a resource for our member- So be on the lookout in would like to hear from as many ship. The goal is to showcase the the coming weeks for an Dames as possible, and tell us expertise and leadership of our email from LDEI about the what trends we will be talking Dames and continue to elevate 2020 Trends Report. The about in another 20 years!

20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International FUNDRAISING Atlanta

Afternoon In The Country

By Angie Mosier (Atlanta) and beverage professionals were invited members were inspired to participate to bring their families to enjoy the event again, and sponsors saw the results of In the spring of 2000, five or six members while they served our guests. That first year their investments. Our event had grown of the LDEI Atlanta Chapter gathered over about 150 people purchased tickets. Chap- up and “Afternoon in the Country” be- wine in the kitchen of Vicky Murphy to ter members and their friends and families scheme a more robust came one of Atlanta’s most beloved food not only attended but many also helped do way to raise money to and beverage events. the literal heavy lifting of putting on the fuel their philanthropic We are in our 19th year now and have event. We operated the same way for eight efforts. The chapter gone from hosting about 300 people years. The funds raised were good but still had, for the first couple to nearly 1,000 guests. More chefs and seemed small for the amount of work that of years of the group’s restaurateurs are able to participate and our members were putting into the effort. existence hosted lovely sponsors touch a larger audience. Our It was also evident that finding members dinner parties, thrown chapter’s Green Tables Committee has willing to commit to the same work year in homes and gardens throughout the city made the event their pet project and has after year was getting difficult. We had to to raise funds. The parties were very nice helped us to reduce waste and through find another way. and well attended but the amount of money a partnership with Atlanta-based Rubi- The solution for our chapter was to hire raised was not really enough for the amount con—a global waste management and an event manager. At first the amount of of work and time that the dinners cost. The recycling platform—we were able to di- money spent on the front side seemed like goal was to come up with something that vert 56 percent of our event’s waste from almost as much as we were making but would make an impact with a “wow factor” going into a landfill in 2018. Our fund- shifting to that model allowed members but also raise as much money as possible. raising efforts are bolstered by our famous to concentrate on finding sponsors rather The idea of the new event was a Sunday cake raffle and a robust silent auction. We than just relying on ticket sales. Under afternoon in a bucolic setting with hay have raised a net average of approximately the expertise of the event management bales arranged for sitting, live bluegrass $100,000 dollars for the past three years team, it didn’t take long to feel the impact music, and Atlanta chefs providing small that goes toward our scholarship fund’s of our dollars spent. Timelines were set, bites for the gathering. Our setting was media packets pulled together, chapter individual and institutional grants. a farm just outside of the city and chefs

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 21 LEADERSHIP IN ACTION By Beth Davis-Noragon Cleveland Chapter President

Leadership in Action is a Quarterly column focused on good business practices for chapters and leadership development for Dames. Experienced Dame leaders and other experts will provide how-to content, practical advice, fresh ideas, tools, and resources. Consider this forum your own personal leadership coach!

PUSHING THE RESET BUTTON: Reinvigorating Your Chapter in Five Easy Steps It happens to the best of chapters: the ebb safeguarding our chapter’s history. doesn’t use email to serve as a committee and flow of enthusiasm about what we do. STOP RE-INVENTING THE WHEEL chair! When you set up your roadmaps/ Whether yours is a freshly minted chapter I’m a big fan of calendars. It makes a schedules/etc. in a way that makes the tasks filled with big plans, or a well-established potentially overwhelming task seem more look achievable, your prospective chair can chapter with a National Conference under manageable if there are deadlines spread out easily review the requirements of the posi- your belt, one day, some members may look throughout the calendar year for each com- tion. She can immediately see if the bulk of around and think, “What happened to us?” mittee member to rely on. Memorialize how the tasks falls right in her busy season—or Suddenly it feels impossible to get even the and when to do the tasks, so it’s a matter of not. Perhaps in reviewing the Fundraiser smallest task accomplished, and your LDEI picking up a guidebook every year instead of Chair schedule, for example, she will find chapter meetings seem to need fewer and constantly starting over. that the job is doable since the Board has fewer seats. already divided this mammoth task into This time a year ago, things were bleak for TECHNOLOGY 2.0 manageable chunks. Our Board sat down the Cleveland Chapter. We hadn’t held our Get the calendars online, then share them and brainstormed about every Cleveland annual fundraiser the previous fall. Mem- and keep them updated. There’s no such Dame and where we felt her strengths lie. bers were asking to be placed on hiatus or thing as “TMI” (Too Much Information) There was some shuffling and possibly some flat-out dropping out. I agreed to be part of when it comes to running a chapter. Ours is toes were stepped on. But we needed bold the turn-around team. an evolving process: We started out ambi- moves to save the Chapter. tiously, with one calendar for each commit- EVALUATE AND REPEAT Parts of the Toolkit tee in Google. But now we are reevaluating The teaser at the top was “Five Easy Steps.” TECHNOLOGY 1.0 that approach, because it seems overwhelm- Turning a chapter around is never easy. But In our (approximate) 15 years as a chapter, ing to have eight separate calendars. We are looking for simple, yet detail-rich, methods it is doable. These steps we have undertaken we have had many board members, each in the past nine months were a lot of work with her own computer, filing systems, to convey the information necessary to the members. at the outset. Nine months ago, I prom- document repository, and memories about ised that when I hand off the baton in 15 how things are done. One of the first items THE RIGHT PEOPLE months, I would be passing on a well-tuned on the agenda was to create online storage Once you have committed to transparency machine. Using technology as our new plat- for all the Cleveland Chapter documents— and technology to make the jobs easier and form has been a great start to re-invigorate from membership lists to minutes. These are repeatable, make committee assignments our members, but it is a work in process. If shared with all chapter members to review based on your members’ skills. Think twice, something isn’t working, evaluate and tweak as desired, increasing transparency, and for instance, before inviting a member who where necessary.

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International The Brock Circle Presents an Exciting Program with Carla Hall

Plan to attend the Brock Circle program featuring Dame Carla Hall, “Being Authentic When Facing Adversity,” on Wednesday, October 23, 2:30 to 6 p.m. at the Loews Hotel, Nashville, TN. The pre-confer- ence program is open to all LDEI members. Carla, best known as the former co-host of ABC’s Emmy award-winning lifestyle series The Chew, currently appears cle on ABC’s popular GMA DAY. Cir ck She wowed audiences when she o competed on Bravo’s Top Chef r B and Top Chef: All Stars, where she shared her philosophy to L always cook with love. Carla be- lieves food connects us all, and she I strives to communicate this through her work and interaction with people. Born in Nashville, TN, Carla Hall grew up sur- rounded by Soul Food. When the time came for her to select a career, she opted for business, graduating from Howard University with a business degree. She worked for two years as an accountant, before switch- ing gears to work as a runway model. While modeling, she traveled and ate her way through Europe, eventu- ally realizing she wanted to turn her deep-rooted pas- sion for food into a career. Carla is a trained chef who has worked in several professional restaurant kitchens in and around Washington, D.C. In addition, she is a nationally recognized television personality and author of three cookbooks—the most recent, Carla Hall’s Soul Food: Everyday and Celebration. LDEI’s Brock Circle members are proud to provide this opportunity for all Dames, and to continue its mission to ensure the fiscal health of LDEI by provid- ing support for strategic needs and special conference enhancements. Questions? Contact LDEI Immediate Past President, Hayley Matson-Mathes, [email protected]. Members of the Brock Circle Committee: LDEI Presi- dent Ann Stratte, Sharon Olson, Margaret Happel Perry, and Patricia Erd with special support provided by Alice G. Foreman. By Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii).

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 23 CHAPTER PROGRAMS Nichole Bendele (San Antonio) ANN ARBOR | ATLANTA | AUSTIN | BIRMINGHAM | BOSTON | BRITISH COLUMBIA | CHARLESTON | CHARLOTTE & THE WESTERN CAROLINAS CHICAGO | CLEVELAND | COLORADO | DALLAS | GREATER DES MOINES | HAWAII | HOUSTON | KANSAS CITY | KENTUCKY | LONDON LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY | MEXICO | MIAMI | MINNESOTA | MONTEREY BAY | NASHVILLE | NEW ORLEANS | NEW ENGLAND | NEW YORK PALM SPRINGS | PARIS, FRANCE | PHILADELPHIA | PHOENIX | PORTLAND | SACRAMENTO | SAN ANTONIO | SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO | SAVANNAH/COASTAL GEORGIA | SEATTLE | SOUTH FLORIDA | ST. LOUIS | WASHINGTON, D.C.

ATLANTA Natasha Cary goal of introducing our chapter Dames to prospective members, On March 12, the Atlanta Chapter hosted Dinner & mentees, and scholarship recipients, and also to elevate the Movie at the Westside Cultural Arts Center, where a screen- LDEI brand in the community. The lively event spurred plenty ing of A Fine Line took place. It was a fascinating look into of conversation about how the Dames can support the journey the role of women in the kitchen and not only the history of other women in our industry, no matter where it leads. of where they have been, but the inspiring stories of the women who are changing the story for the future. We gath- CLEVELAND Jackie Bebenroth ered for networking and fellowship with one another at the In March, the Cleveland Dames gathered at the Flying Fig for arts center and enjoyed a catered meal by Avalon Catering, a a multi-course dinner prepared Chef/Owner Karen Small. woman-owned business by our Dame Cathy Conway. Chef Small is a 2018 James Beard semi-finalist and a pillar in The menu included a sharing mezze platter set at each the region’s local foods community. After dinner, she joined table, and some of the items displayed on the buffet were: the table to share her perspective on how to keep business Southern BBQ Smoked Painted Short Ribs with Kimchi “fresh” after 20 years in the restaurant scene. April’s member Slaw; Roasted Garlic and Herb Springer Mountain Chicken; event will be held at Saucisson and will spotlight the work of and Baby Eggplant with Cumin and Rustic Rosemary two female butchers, Melissa Khoury and Penny Barend. Tomato Sauce. These were just some of the items we savored ,and all the food was stunning and delicious. DALLAS Lisa Stewart

BIRMINGHAM Martha Johnston In late January, members attended a “Financial Challenges Women Face in the 21st Century” workshop. Designed to give tools to achieve financial independence, both person- ally and in businesses, a CPA and two financial advisors (all women) representing three different firms participated on the panel. February saw Dames gather for our 2nd Annual Favorite Things Party. Every member brought three items (each under $10) and told her story about why it was special. Attendees chose an item to take home as their name was drawn. The event proved a wonderful vehicle for Dames to cross the professional bridge to develop a more personal friendship as stories were shared. To insure our chapter’s strong membership continues to grow, Leigh Sloss-Corra, VP of Membership, chaired a Membership Orientation Meeting on April 8. Policies Carol Ritchie, Christina LaBarba and Standards were reviewed as well as the qualifications Suzanne Felber, Lori Finkelman. for potential new members, the process, and timeline for Dallas Chapter Dames nominating them. Tiffany Derry CHARLESTONDanielle Wecksler The Dallas Chapter teamed up with Central Market and Tiffany Derry to host a special evening celebrating Texas Independence Day, while raising scholarship funds. It was also the perfect opportunity to educate participants about Les Dames d’Escoffier and the wonderful work we do for the culinary community. Several of our members helped serve and prepare the meal. It was a wonderful learning experience for our guests when Chef Derry shared stories about where the ingredients came from and on her recent experiences traveling for the James Beard Charleston Foundation, Top Chef, and as an ambassador for the United Chapter members host States of America. Susan Auler, founder of Fall Creek Vine- a “Meet the yards, shared what it was like starting a wine business in Texas Dames” mixer. and the accolades her wines have received. A special thanks to Co-Chairs Suzanne Felber and Christina LaBarba, for putting this evening together with Karen Cas- sady The Charleston Dames gathered on April 7 at Bar Mash, of Central Market. With the ongoing support of Central hosted by Vonda Freeman, for a "Meet the Dames" mixer. Market, we continue to raise funds for scholarships. We look The Mentorship Committee organized the event with the forward to doing more events like this in the future. 24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International MIAMI Ellen Kanner sliders with traditional Southern sides. “Bonnie Warren is a shining We began the year with MusiMelange an evening blending live mu- example of a strong, accomplished, and successful woman who has Beth sic, gastronomic delights, and specially curated wines in Miami’s chic excelled in the hospitality arena for more than 50 years,” said D’Addono Wynwood district. A treat for all the senses, the Dames event was , chapter co-founder. “She is always available to mentor such a success it became a monthly happening. Thanks go to Gail and uplift other women, a tenet and core value of LDEI.” Chapter Stephanie Carter Beckham, whose desserts made March’s MusiMelange so sweet. Co-Founder-President agrees, “We're so proud Spring means both business and pleasure. In early April, members to celebrate her as our first honorary Dame.” turned out at Johnson & Wales University for our general business meeting to brainstorm about goals for the coming year. We work NORTH CAROLINA Paulette Licitra to build our scholarship program. Awarding scholarships to deserv- Our third annual fundraiser, celebrating DUDES FOR DAMES ing women is where our fundraising efforts pay was a tribute to the men behind the women rather than the other off in the happiest way. way around, and featured Chefs Justin Burdett, Bill Smith, Phil We’re proud of Thi Squireand her program Bey, Josh DeCar- Grow2Heal, recently featured on local televi- olis, Sean Fowler, sion. Thi, who does the Green Tables committee Gray Brooks, Sam proud, runs a farm-to-table initiative growing McGann, and produce—the best medicine—on site at Home- Jake Wood. The stead Hospital. That’s over 3,000 pounds of event was hosted the fresh fruits and vegetables feeding hospital by incoming Karen patients, staff, and local community. Thi Squire Dame MacDonald at NASHVILLE Paulette Licitra the stunningly lovely Lavender On March 4, Nashville Dames enjoyed another segment of our Oak Farms in popular "Table at the Back" series. This time it was at Maneet Chapel Hill. Pro- Chef Bill Smith with North Carolina Chapter Dames Chauhan's newest restaurant, Chaatable, which is all about ceeds benefitted Sandra Gutierrez, Margaret Norfleet-Neff, and Eliza- celebrating Indian street food. Nashville Dames filled Chaatable’s the NC Jr. Chef beth Wiegand. Photo: Susi Séguret. back room for a multi-course tasting and raised money for our Competition & scholarship fund. No Kid Hungry North Carolina, in memory and honor of award- April 1 was our quarterly potluck at Tallu Quinn’s home. We all winning Pastry Chef Karen Barker. enjoyed an outstanding spread of food and wine, while members socialized and got to know each other better. We also discussed more details of our plans for the 2019 LDEI Conference, here in PHILADELPHIA Natanya DiBona Jacqueline Nashville, with Co-Chairs Anne Byrn and Mindy Merrell, and we The New Year began with our annual Winter Potluck at Kelly’s raised scholarship money with a drawing for prizes. home. In February, Dames and The Geographical Society of Philadelphia held a Georgian Wine Dinner. Jill Weber paired Georgian wines with the dishes. We also went to Samuels and Son Seafood for a tour, lunch, and discussion on underutilized fish. In conjunction with the Philly Chef Conference in March, we hosted an Empowering brunch and panel discussion with Mashama Bailey (Savannah), Ka- Table at the Back – Chaatable. Nashville Chapter Potluck. tie Button (North Carolina) and Elle Simone Scott (Boston). We partnered with Riverbend NEW ORLEANS Beth D’Addono Environmental Education Center The New Orleans Chapter honored hospitality guru Bonnie to present “Our Table, Our Warren March 31 at “Bonnie-Gras,” a celebration of her long- Planet,” a sustainability dinner time involvement in public relations, publishing, and hospitality. featuring Lisa Calvo of Sweet Bonnie, the director of public relations at Bren- Amalia Oysters, Chef Kiki Aranita nan’s restaurant for 29 years, was honored as the of Poi Dog Philly, and Jonathan chapter's first “Dame Emeritus.” The event was Deutsch, PhD of Drexel’s Center also a benefit for Les Dames and Southern Food for Food and Hospitality. & Beverage Museum, and it included foods from In April, we hosted our first Veg- Bonnie’s heritage. She was born in South Africa an Spring Soiree at Walnut Hill to missionary parents before coming to the U.S., College. Timed to coincide with ultimately settling in New Orleans. Jyl Benson, the Food as Medicine Conference, Dames Katie Button, Mashama SoFAB’s Director of Culinary Programming, Bailey and Elle Simone Scott. Dames Bonnie Warren Lynn Buono, Fran Costigan, created the menu, which included ground-nut Kathy Gold, Alice Leung, and Susanna Foo and Angie Brown stew and bread served with dukkah-spiced oil—a condiment made with Stephanie Willis. Vegan Spring Char Nolan designed a plant- Soiree Planner. with herbs, nuts, and spices. Harkening to Bonnie’s Southern based menu that was prepared roots, barbecue pit master and SoFAB’s Curator of Meat Science by students under the direction of Marie Stecher and Chef Todd Dan Robert smoked a pork shoulder for 17 hours and served it as Braley. We also hosted our 4th Annual Women in Food Reception. SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 25 SAN ANTONIO Nichole Bendele At our January Bi-Annual Membership Meeting we honored Dr. Adena Williams Loston as our Legacy Award recipient. She serves as the 14th president of St. Phillips College (San Antonio), the only college to be federally designated as both a historically black college and Hispanic-serving institution. Degrees in culinary arts as well as baking & pastry arts are some of the degrees offered. Chef Elizabeth Johnson’s top-rated organic restaurant catered the dinner with locally- sourced ingredients. In February, Kathy Gottsacker hosted the Word-of-Mouth Book Club potluck and discussed the book Being Dead is No Excuse by Gayden Metcalfe and Charlotte Hays. Dames cooked recipes from the book and socialized. In April, scholarship applications were turned in to Diana Barrios Trevino. The Board approved Past President Kathy Shearer’s nomina- tions for new officers for President, Vice President, and Corresponding Secretary. Membership will vote on the nominated slate in May.

SOUTH FLORIDA Irene Moore In January, Miami Dames rode the new Brightline train to Palm Beach and attended New York Times’ Food Editor Sam Sifton’s presen- tation, “In the Kips Bay Kitchen.” Champagne, tea sandwiches, and a tour of the Kips Bay Showhouse followed. Stacey Stolman was our Truffles at South Florida’s Winter Black Truffle Dinner. Irene Moore and event co-chair. Patty Ruiz at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival. “In the Kitchen In February, South Florida Dames held an Italian Winter Black Truffle with Sam Sifton.” Dinner in Wynwood with Dōma Italian Restaurant and Urbani Truffles as part of our Global Culinary Initiative and learned the difference our panel of Dame experts. Panelists served as judges weighing a between Italian and French truffles. Karen Escalera and Gina Natoli variety of criteria including strong concept with research and data, were co-chairs. poise and professionalism, ability to communicate market and Patty Ruiz and Irene Moore represented the SoFL Dames on Trade target, and answer questions with base of knowledge. Judges were Day in February at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival. They Stacey Adams, president, Tastings Gourmet Market, Annapolis; distributed 2,000 samples of crudités and handmade tzaziki to inter- Susan Callahan MA Gastronomy, chef instructor HTM, Univer- national members of the wine and food trade. Paulette Bilsky also sity of Maryland Eastern Shore; Jill Collins, owner, Jill Collins participated. Public Relations Group and Sophia Maroon, founder & CEO, Dames held their “April in Paris” fundraiser dinner with Semilla Dress It Up Dressing. The moderator was Aviva Goldfarb. “Pitch French Bistro and Wine Bar in Miami Beach, promoting French cul- Fest” was held at Mission Navy Yard. ture and classic French cuisine. Executive Chef/Owner Frederic Joulin Laurie Bell, owner, Great Falls Tea Garden, Jodi Lehr, co-owner, presented an exceptional culinary journey, familiarizing Dames with Santa Lucia Coffee and Nancy Baggett award-winning cookbook the cuisine of his native France. Breakthru Beverages Florida provided author, shared the histories of our favorite caffeinated beverages French wines to accompany the dinner. Denise Courshon and Irene and how these commodities’ trade and consumption changed our Moore were co-chairs. societies and cultures. With origins from around the globe, coffee, tea, and chocolate had colorful histories centuries before they were WASHINGTON, D.C. Eileen Dykes introduced to the European continent. Guests enjoyed a plethora Our chapter held its inaugural “Pitch Fest” a program modeled after of these luxury beverages, paired with creative confections and a “Shark Tank.” Women entrepreneurs pitched their business models to variety of taste treats from Ris Lacoste and her staff.

LAUNCHPOINT

ing as far as Ontario, Greece, Speaking to these women is a New Chapter Development and Florence, Italy. Most come constant reminder of the value from member referrals, but oth- of this organization for our By Jennifer chapters of LDEI. Across the ers are aware of LDEI and want members and partners alike. Goldman, U.S. and spanning the globe, to be part of the collaborative Our programs and networking (San Antonio Chapter) there are currently 13 loca- and supportive culture. These opportunities further our goals LDEI Secretary tions where women leaders in women work full time, but as chapters and professionals, as hospitality are working to pull they are finding the incredible our philanthropic and mentor- Halfway through this year as their community together under Board Secretary, I am pleasantly amount of time it takes to orga- ing missions feed our souls. the LDEI banner—places such nize a chapter so their commu- Participation is the key! surprised by the number of as Huntsville, Las Vegas, and women who want to start new nity of influencers can benefit Madison, Wisconsin, and reach- from the resources of LDEI.

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Rutherford, Napa Valley www.cakebread.com (800) 588–0298

www.beautifulbrinysea.com

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 27 MEMBER MILESTONES Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia) ATLANTA Brook and Cahaba Heights. www.crestline- section of The Carmel Pine Cone news- Keio Gayden was bagel.com/ www.crestlinecatering.com paper, which described all the highlights featured in Atlanta BOSTON of her culinary career and her cookbook, Magazine for her work Kristen LaCount, As- The Traveling Soup Pot, now in its fourth with Miller Grove sistant General Man- printing. It features Mary’s soup recipes High School’s Culi- ager of The Country from 27 countries. nary Program. For the Club in Chestnut NASHVILLE past 10 years, Keio has Keio Gayden Hill, received the Ris- Dee Patel, Manag- been inspiring stu- ing Star Award which ing Director of The dents and changing recognizes a future Hermitage Hotel in their lives. Her school kitchen was one of GM who has ex- Kristen LaCount Nashville, has been the first four in Georgia to be accredited hibited outstanding honored with the by the American Culinary Federation. leadership skills in the U.S. David Chag, Outstanding Woman BIRMINGHAM CCM, General Manager recognized her Hotelier of the Year Geri-Martha O’Hara excellent performance and said, “Kristen Award from the Asian Dee Patel opened a second more than qualifies as a rising star; she has American Hotel location for Big Spoon risen in my eyes.” Owners Association. In addition, Nashville Creamery in Home- CHARLESTON Business Journal named Dee as one of its wood. She began 2019 Women of Influence. Robin Griffith, a selling ice cream in NEW YORK longtime, hospitality 2014 with a store- Odila Galer-Noel industry executive, opened PRonCall, a front in Avondale in Geri-Martha O'Hara multi-service communications and event 2017. Her business appeared on a panel of industry professionals planning agency, which focuses on wine, is a small batch artisan ice cream company spirits, and food. Odila’s passion for story- making seasonal flavors with local ingredi- in May at the Chicago NRA Show to ad- telling and crafting innovative campaigns ents and creating new innovations on the Robin Griffith led her to privileged relationships with classics. www.bigspooncreamery.com dress executives from Galunion, a Brazilian company special- the media and trade. PRonCall’s goal is Patricia H. Terry , izing in foodservice. She spoke about the to positively impact awareness for clients PhD, RD, LD, challenges of being a woman and a minor- through the power of public relations. FAND, Professor at ity in the Food and Beverage Industry. PHOENIX Samford University, is Barbara Pool Fenzl is one of thirteen U.S. Katie Weinberger, the owner of Charles- ton's King Bean Coffee recently joined semi-retired and has dietitians selected closed Les Gourmettes to receive the Cabot television show host Cooking School Creamery Community which she operated Award that recognizes Patricia H. Terry Vera Stewart on her popu- for 36 years. Barbara dietitians with a com- hosted countless guest mitment to the profession, who give self- lar Southern chefs including: Barbara Pool Fenzl lessly of their time to volunteer within their cooking show, "The Very Vera Jacques Pépin, Paula communities and encourage eating local Wolfert, Martin Yan, and Anne Willan. food. www.samford.edu/healthsciences Show." Check Vera Stewart’s She continues to teach occasional private Rebecca Williamson , You Tube classes and appear on local morning tele- owner and creator channel to vision cooking segments. of Holmsted Fines watch the segment at www.youtube.com/ SAN FRANCISCO Chutney, ran in the watch?v=_VyTpYkVghU Emily Luchetti took a detour from food Maebashi Japan Mara- writing to co-author with friend Erin thon on April 21. She CLEVELAND Bev Shafferonce McHugh, So Who’s Counting?: The Little represented the City of Quote Book About Growing Older and Birmingham through again attended the Al- zheimer’s Association Still Kicking Ass. They got tired of hear- the Birmingham Rebecca Williamson ing the self-deprecating jokes about aging, Track Club in our Advocacy Forum from March 31-April 3 in but know that they are just hitting their Sister City's Marathon. stride! (Andrews McMeel, publisher) www.holmstedfines.com Washington, D.C. She addressed the 1,300 SEATTLE Jennifer Yarbrough, delegates at the Bev Shaffer Renee Erickson, biz owner of Crestline dinner the evening partner Jeremy Price, Bagel Company, Inc., before the ambassadors visited Capitol and the Sea Creatures announced the open- Hill and all of Congress to request their Restaurant Group’s ing of a third location continued support and budget funding to Willmott’s Ghost was in downtown Birming- find a cure and treatment for Alzheimer’s. nominated by the ham at Innovation MONTEREY BAY James Beard Awards Depot. This artisan for Outstanding Res- Mary Chamberlin was recently honored Renee Erickson bakery also has loca- Jennifer Yarbrough taurant Design. tions in Mountain with a lovely article in the “Great Lives” 28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Amy Grondin, co-owner of Duna Fisheries, lounge serving gourmet Roman cuisine, and gym with a EMAIL presented her work as a commercial fisherman wellbeing program. www.kwepr.com MESSAGES on the sustainability of salmon at the annual WASHINGTON, D.C. AND LDEI meeting of chefs and mangers from the Seattle Gladys Abi-Nijam and her four siblings were hon- Greg Jewell based Columbia Hospitality group. The meet- ored by the National Restaurant Association with its Executive Director ing was hosted at the Abeja Winery and Inn in 2019 Faces of Diversity Award. For nearly 40 years, Walla Walla, WA. In the last few months, Gladys and her family have been actively giving back we have seen an Gretchen Mathers, former LDEI president and to the community as well as providing their Lebanese increase in the number co-founder of the Seattle Chapter, was inducted Taverna employees with opportunities to achieve their of undeliverable emails posthumously into the Washington State Uni- American Dreams. that bounce back to versity School of Hospitality Business Manage- Cathy Barrow's new book, Pie Squared: Irresistibly Easy us. Some return with ment's Hall of Fame. Prior to this, the chapter Sweet & Savory Slab Pies (Grand Central Publishing), messages like “info@ honored Gretchen with an endowed scholarship is a finalist for the Baking and Desserts category of the ldei.org does not have in her name. James Beard Foundations Book Awards. Her first book, permission to email” or Jamie Peha was named in- Mrs. Wheelbarrow's Kitchen was the IACP Award Win- “not in trusted senders terim Executive Director by ner for Best Single Subject Cookbook in 2015! list.” the Auction of Washington Najmieh Batmanglij was featured on PBS News We make every effort Wines. Jamie has played a Hour with Jeffrey Brown as she prepared her feast for not to abuse our email key role as part of the AWW Nowruz, the Iranian New Year holiday. She remi- privileges. We know team and as director of its nisced about her life in Iran, France, and the U.S. your time is valuable Private Barrel Auction, she www.pbs.org/newshour/show/a-culinary-tradition- and your inbox is full. grew the program from Jamie Peha for-the-persian-new-year We also want to make eight wine lots in 2015 to sure that all of our thirty-one in 2018. Amy Brandwein, Executive Chef/Owner of Centro- messages are reaching lina, is a finalist for the Best Chef Mid-Atlantic from Kim Smith the intended members. , baking and pas- the James Beard Foundation. Amy was nominated for try instructor, was presented the 2019 RAMMY* (Restaurant Association Metro- If you feel like you are with the 2018 Educator of politan Washington*) award for best Upscale Casual not receiving messages the Year Award from the Restaurant of the Year. from LDEI (we send ACF’s Washington State one to two messages Chefs Association. When Cecilia Glembocki created The per week, on average), asked what she enjoys most Kim Smith American Egg Board’s commemo- please check your email about teaching, Smith said rative egg for First Lady Melania settings. Please note “it’s the moment when students realize they can Trump at the April 22 White that all email servers have a career and love what they do.” House Egg Roll, which Cecelia are different, so you has chaired for 37 years. Cecilia SOUTH FLORIDA might need to search decorated the egg by quilling, a Patty Ruiz from The Mad Table participated in around a bit to find the centuries-old art form whereby appropriate setting. the South Beach Wine Food Festival where her small, rolled strips of paper are Cecilia Glembocki • Check your Trusted meatball appetizer was voted second place in shaped and glued together. Sunday’s Yelp’s Best Bite. She also cooked one of Senders list (it may her Cuban recipes with Sara Moulton. She will Ruth Gresser is Executive Chef/Owner of five Pizza be called something be featured on Sara’s Weeknight Meals, which airs Paradiso restaurants. Her DuPont different in your this fall. www.stressfreecooking.com Circle location was nominated for email utility). Make the 2019 RAMMY* award for best sure that info@ldei. Barbara Seelig-Brown an- Beer Program of the Year. org is listed as a nounced that she has filmed trusted sender. This a new season of Stress Free Pati Jinich received the James gives your email Cooking aired nationally Beard Foundation (JBF) award for server permission on We Cook TV Network Best Television Program in-studio to accept messages Channel 1 and is available or fixed location for her syndicated PBS cooking show, Pati’s Mexican from LDEI. on Roku and Altice Media/ Pati Jinich Cablevision. www.themad- Table. Last year, she was named • Check your filtered table.com Barbara Seelig-Brown Best Television Personality from JBF. email (this is a Gmail feature under Susan Soorenko has finally opened her Ellicott City, Robyn Webb, owner of Paris Made for You, was Settings>Inbox. Maryland, and Moorenko’s Ice Cream at 8054 Main recently hired by the Washington, D.C. branch You might want to Street in April. The opening was delayed because of the of the Alliance Française Language School to override your filters x flooding in Ellicott City last year. Susan will also have create their first language immersion vacation to make sure your a shop within a shop (Serendipity and More on Prince program in Paris. The excursion took place LDEI messages are Street) in Frederick, Maryland, later this spring. March 10-16 and included exclusive culinary and getting through. cultural events plus daily French lessons. www. CiCi Williamson was chosen manager of the 2019 parismadeforyou.com If you have any Association of Food Journalists Awards Competition. questions, please feel Karen Weiner Escalera of KWE Partners an- The 40-year-old awards received 373 entries in 15 free to contact us at nounces a new client Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese, categories. Several Dames were among the 44 judges [email protected]. which opened after a complete renovation of the CiCi invited to score the contest entries, and her 12 property. The former noble residence features 78 years chairing LDEI’s M.F.K. Fisher Award gave her larger rooms and suites, a restaurant, a rooftop contest management experience.

SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 29

IN MEMORIAM

Kathleen Mulhern (Philadelphia) Kathleen Mulhern, outdoor dining and was the first to have schools. She was an active advocate for a trailblazing restaura- outdoor tables in a garden in the middle the city of Philadelphia. teur who opened the of the city, thereby bringing Philadelphia Our chapter was proud to have honored acclaimed restau- into the modern age. Many future food her this past fall with our Outstanding in rant The Garden in professionals went thru The Garden and Her Field award, as a charter member of 1974, passed away it became a finishing school for the scene the Philadelphia chapter. on February 2nd at that followed. She was demanding yet The Philadelphia food community the age of 93. She is generous at the same time. Many city is standing on her shoulders. She was credited with sparking institutions benefited from her largess one of the greats and will be missed. the Philadelphia Restaurant Renaissance. including the Philadelphia Art Museum, - Lynn Buono, Vice President She fought legislation that prohibited the Barnes, the Free Library, and various (Philadelphia)

Aileen Robbins (New York) It is with heavy missed a program and was an active ered on March 26 at NYC Central Syna- hearts we share the volunteer, most recently co-chairing the gogue for a beautiful service with many news that Aileen LDNY Scholarship Committee. Aileen moving tributes expressed with word Robbins passed gave graciously of her time, mentoring and song. Her daughter Ariel welcomes away peacefully the many scholarship recipients in addi- Dames to email any stories or photos morning of March tion to sponsoring a number of Les of her mother that you wish to share at 23, surrounded by Dames members. Aileen was a generous [email protected]. her family, at home. corporate benefactor as well, funding In lieu of flowers, the family requested Before opening The The Dunn Robbins Scholarship Wine & contributions be made to the Central Syna- Dunn/Robbins Group in 1994, Aileen Food Scholarship. gogue Music Fund, Les Dames d’Escoffier served as Management Supervisor at Along with her extensive knowledge New York Scholarship Fund or to Memo- Beisler/TBWA, working on accounts of—and great enthusiasm for—fine food rial Sloan Kettering. ranging from Evian and Absolut and wine, Aileen had other talents, too, Aileen was a much beloved member of Vodka to Wines of Spain. Previously she including being a professional opera our Les Dames family. We will miss her worked as Director of Communications singer in New York City for several years; immeasurably. for Campari USA, and before that, ran she was also a published author of cook- - Ronnie Campbell, Vice President her own company, AR Associates. books, and food and wine columns. (LDNY Chapter) A dedicated Dame, Aileen rarely Aileen’s family and dear friends gath-

Renee Kientz (New Orleans) 1953-2019

The saddest of news, destination—across Lake Pontchartrain Orleans and promoting the Northshore. Dame Renee Joseph from her hometown of New Orleans. Renee epitomized what it means to be a Kientz died sud- She was incredibly dedicated to telling Dame— her mission was always to uplift, denly in her home in the many stories of the small businesses raise up, and support women. She will be Covington Sunday, and restaurants on the Northshore as greatly missed. A huge fan of Mardi Gras, March 03, 2019. few could. she went to Muses and Nyx parades be- She suffered a heart For those who knew her, Renee was un- fore she passed on Bacchus Sunday. Her attack. Although her failingly kind and a supportive friend be- zest for life remains an inspiration. title was vice presi- yond measure. She chaired the programs Donations may be made to St. Tamma- dent of marketing and communications committee for the New Orleans Chapter ny Parish Humane Society 20384 Har- for the St. Tammany Tourist Commis- and was a font of knowledge and ideas— rison Ave. Covington, LA 70433 http:// sion, Renee was really a master storytell- truly she is irreplaceable. Renee was whip www.sthumane.org/civicrm/contribute er. A longtime journalist, Renee helped smart, an amazing writer, and she was - Beth D’Addono (New Orleans) shape the image of the Northshore as a passionate about her hometown of New

30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

JUST CLICK SUBMIT! A New Way to Submit Your News By Danielle Wecksler (Charleston), LDEI Second Vice President SUBMISSION GUIDELINES When you open the latest issue of the Quar- terly, what column do you read first? If you are DEADLINES FALL ISSUE – AUGUST 1, 2019 like most of us, you immediately turn to the WINTER ISSUE - NOVEMBER 11, 2019 | SPRING ISSUE— JANUARY 10, 2020 Member Milestones and Chapter Programs columns to learn what your sister Dames and MEMBER MILESTONES To submit your milestone, go to this link: chapters have been up to. It’s a way for all of us http://link.ldei.org/ldei-member-milestones to stay connected and up to date and to cheer For any questions or issues, email the editor at [email protected]. each other on in the pages of the magazine. Include: Our section editors do a great job compiling • CHAPTER your accomplishments and pulling together all • DAME’S NAME • Maximum 50 words of the information for each issue (a huge shout for each Dame about personal honors or accomplish- ments, but not about new product introductions or other promotions. out and thanks to Dottie Koteski, Nichole Please include a website URL, if applicable. Press releases and cookbook Bendele, and Diane Wheeler!). I can assure covers are NOT accepted. you that this is no small task! PHOTO: You may submit a high resolution quality headshot to accompany your But to make everyone’s life easier, we’re news (see below), and agree to the photo permissions questions for the photo. excited to announce a new way to submit your Note: Due to space constraints, only two Member Milestones will be information for the Member Milestones and published per Dame per year. Chapter Programs columns in the Quarterly, as well as the bimonthly email newsletter (E- CHAPTER PROGRAMS To submit your chapter program, go to News) about upcoming Chapter Events. It’s this link: http://link.ldei.org/ldei-chapter-programs now as easy as filling out an online form. The Up to 200 words about chapter events that have already occurred. For any form will prompt you for the information we questions or issues, email the editor at [email protected]. need so you don’t have to remember all of the Include: required pieces and parts (how many times • CHAPTER have you referenced the Submission Guidelines • SUBMITTER’S NAME when sending something in?!?). • Maximum 200 words for each chapter. So how does it work? Here are the details: • Captions for all photos submitted. Photos without captions will not be used. Submissions that exceed 200 words will be edited to comply. • For Member Milestones, go to this link in Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don’t have space to print full your web browser: menus but menu items can be included in the copy. http://link.ldei.org/ldei-member-milestones • For Chapter Programs, go to this link in your Note: “Chapter Programs” and “Member Milestones” may be dispersed through LDEI social-media channels, as well as in print and online. web browser: http://link.ldei.org/ldei-chapter-programs PHOTOGRAPHY/IMAGES • For Chapter E-News Events, go to this link in • Electronic images must be properly focused and in color your web browser: with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). http://link.ldei.org/ldei-enews • Cell phone photos are acceptable if they meet requirements. • Fill out the form with your information. Any • Do not send photos taken off the Internet or embedded field marked with an asterisk (*) is required. with text in Word files or PDF files. Note that some forms have character limits • Include photo credits, if required. because we only have so much space in • A photo permissions form must be submitted. each issue. • A maximum of three photos can be submitted per chapter. • If you would like to submit a photo for the • ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Member Milestones or Chapter Programs, CAPTIONS OR THEY WILL NOT BE PUBLISHED. be sure to reply “Yes” to the last question LDEI regrets that we cannot include lengthy profiles of individual Dames (“Would you like to submit a high resolution due to space limitations. Dames’ accomplishments should be submitted to quality image….”), and then click “Next.” “Member Milestones” or to LDEI’s Closed Group on Facebook at You will be taken to a second page where https://www.facebook.com/groups/218435184886471/ you can upload your images. • Be sure to click the SUBMIT button to upload E-NEWS To submit your e-news, go to this link: your responses. You will receive an email con- http://link.ldei.org/ldei-enews (Not for the Quarterly) This bimonthly email newsletter reports upcoming firmation that your submission was received. events in other chapters. Include title, date, time, cost, a one-sentence • Note that you can still email your information description, and an email contact for your chapter’s events. For any too if you prefer! The email addresses listed questions or issues, email the editor at [email protected]. under the Submission Guidelines will always be active and will forward to the right person. Any questions at all, don’t hesitate to reach UPCOMING in the out to me at [email protected]. fall issue I look forward to reading about all of your 2019 Grande Dame Nora Pouillon | GCI Postcard from Seattle future achievements! Trends and Fundraisers SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 31 PRESORTED Ann Arbor Miami FIRST CLASS Atlanta Minnesota U S POSTAGE Austin Monterey Bay PAID Birmingham Nashville LOUISVILLE KY Boston New England P.O. Box 4961 PERMIT #1051 British Columbia New Orleans Louisville, KY 40204 Charleston New York Charlotte/ North Carolina Western Carolinas Palm Springs Chicago Paris, France Cleveland/ Northeast Ohio Philadelphia Colorado Phoenix Dallas Portland Greater Sacramento Des Moines San Antonio Hawaii San Diego Houston San Francisco Kansas City Savannah/ Kentucky Coastal Georgia London Seattle Los Angeles/ South Florida Orange County St. Louis Mexico Washington, D.C.

OUR NASHVILLE IN WORDS ...

Dear Dames, Our LDEI Quarterly editor asked for at least 250 words written on the Nashville Conference, and so we took that assignment literally and wrote down enough words, plus a few extra, that say Nashville—that’s right, count ‘em! You will hear these words at the LDEI Conference in October, see them in print, possibly taste and sip them, and hopefully they will explain to you a more complete Nashville. This is a Nashville with enough country music and hot chicken to give you what you came for—“wet your whistle”—but also a curated Conference of programming that digs deeper into big issues and unveils the real Nashville we know and love. All the Nashville Dames are excited to host you. See you at Con- ference 2019 in the Music City!! Anne Byrn Mindy Merrell Co-Chairs