SUMMER 2019 Culinary SUMMER SCHOOL ALSO INSIDE ... FLAVORS OF MEXICO | GRANDE DAME NOMINEES | WENTE’S COMMITMENT TO SUSTAINABILITY On the cover: Clockwise: Keio Gayden, Shelley Young, Kari Underly, Rachel Davies, Susi Séguret, Jane Bertch, and Seattle Culinary Academy students. Photo: Katherine Kehrli. This page: Kären Jurgensen’s herbs at Quillisascut Farm School. Photo: Audra Mulkern. Guelaguetza dancers. The woman’s traditional Tehuana dress is from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, where fashions influenced the style of artist Frida Khalo. La Catrina Maria Laurens and El Catrín Dean Laurens. Photos: Oscar Valesquez. FROM THE EDITOR Embracing Food: Alphabet Soup SUMMER 2 O19 and Grasshopper Pest-o The three Rs of education—reading, writing, and arithme- tic—(e.g., fractions, percentages, and ratios) are core funda- mentals in culinary school. The Dame culinarians profiled in IN THIS ISSUE the feature, “Culinary Summer School” are also champions of four Cs —creativi- FEATURES ty, communication, critical thinking, and confidence—traits that foster success. 4 Culinary Summer School For good measure, shall we include C for chocolate? (Man can’t live on chocolate alone, but women certainly can!) 12 Wente Vineyards Add A for art. A writer for The Boston 2019 Grande Dame Cooking School Magazine (1897) opined that art is as educa- 14 tional as the three Rs. Who would deny that a skilled pastry Nominees instructor can transform cake into ephemeral, edible art? S is for science. The teaching kitchen is an amazing science 16 Flavors of Mexico lab that will ignite sparks of curiosity and innovation. By teaching the ABCs of fine cooking and hospitality, LDEI’s 23 Brock Circle Presents Carla Hall accomplished Dame instructors inspire students to develop a lifelong passion for the culinary arts. Six Grande Dame nominees are also profiled in the sum- mer issue, and one will receive LDEI’s Grande Dame Award. DEPARTMENTS Each woman has created an exemplary, trailblazing body of work and used her experience and skills to help other 18 Global Culinary Postcard women advance and lead. The winner will be profiled in the fall Quarterly and honored at the Nashville Conference. 20 Trends Wente Vineyards, LDEI’s valued partner, received A+ on a sustainability report card, and they achieved a “Certi- fied Sustainable” designation on their vineyard and win- Fundraising 21 ery. Wente’s high level of commitment to sustainability is detailed in this issue. 22 Leadership A Global Culinary Initiative (GCI) postcard from South Florida shares a fascinating account of a unique Asian din- 24 Chapter Programs ing experience. Check online at the LDEI website under Global Culinary Initiative for another postcard on Dames in 28 Member Milestones Oaxaca learning The Art of Mole. An article on “Flavors of Mexico” reviews the vibrant, fasci- 30 In Memoriam nating culinary traditions of Oaxaca—a city of picture-post- card beauty. Oaxacans jest, “the best way to manage a plague 31 Submission Guidelines of grasshoppers (chapulines) is to eat them.” In a culinary leap of faith, we ate field-to-table, toasted and seasoned chapulines as a snack and even more in salads, appetizers, and sauces. Sometimes, crunchy antennas and foldup legs presented (minor) textural challenges that most Dames met and conquered. The high-protein insects have functioned as an alternative, crisis food since pre-Columbian times. —Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston), Editor, Summer Quarterly 2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE 2019 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS The mission of the LDEI Board is to foster the growth and success of War of the Roses: Women Win the Vote! the organization by supporting the development of new and existing chapters Ann Stratte (Washington, D.C.) and by implementing program initiatives. A recent trip to Nashville brought front and It provides leadership, guidance, center this city’s impact on women’s quest for education, connectivity, and effective communication among LDEI members. equality. My room at the historic Hermitage Hotel happened to be the very one in which President ANN STRATTE Women’s Suffrage leader Carrie Chapman Catt Lobster and Lox LLC used as her headquarters. My view was of the 100 Severn Avenue, #506 state capital where, in 1920, Tennessee legisla- Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 tors were called to a special session to determine (410) 903-2682 | [email protected] First Vice President the women’s right to vote, a legislative event BEV SHAFFER now known as the “War of the Roses." And I’m Owner/COOK.WRITE.TRAVEL.REPEAT. not talking Michael Douglas versus Kathleen Culinary Consultant | Recipe Development R&D | Food & Travel Writer Turner! Supporters of the 19th Amendment 3433 Blake Road were identified by wearing yellow roses, while Seville, OH 44273 those against the ratification wore a red rose. (330) 441-2706 The state of Tennessee was the last and only [email protected] chance for ratification of women’s suffrage. The Second Vice President DANIELLE WECKSLER Tennessee Senate approved the 19th Amend- Plateful Solutions ment, but the House was split. Harry Burn, the 326 Bayview Drive youngest Tennessee legislator, wore a red rose Mt. Pleasant, SC 29464 until he received a note from his mother urging (843) 647-9902 | [email protected] Third Vice President him to vote in the affirmative. His “aye” for the BETH VLASICH PAV amendment broke the tie, and on August 18, Owner/Chef, 1920, women were granted the right to vote. Cooking by Design, LLC 5606 Stage Stop Circle Yes, mother does know best. Austin, TX 78738 In just a few months, we will be celebrating to- (512) 431-8751 | [email protected] gether for the 2019 LDEI Annual Conference in Whitehorse Saloon, where we will dance the Secretary this vibrant city full of history, music, and great night away. JENNIFER GOLDMAN food with a Nashville Chapter eager to share Last but not least, our LDEI Kentucky Chap- Bal-Core Business Advisors 6732 Vanderbilt St their beloved home town with us. I urge you to ter has put together an optional “Bourbon and Houston, TX 77005 take advantage of all that this year’s “Nashville Culinary Tour” promising an adventure you (843) 224-0198 | [email protected] Rhythm & Roots” LDEI Conference has to won’t want to miss. This will begin immediately Treasurer offer. Arrive Wednesday for a special afternoon after Conference and info will be included in SHARON OLSON Culinary Visions Panel with Dame Carla Hall, sponsored by the Brock your Conference package. 445 W. Erie Street, Suite 107 Circle and open to all of our members. Nash- I invite you to honor and celebrate the historic Chicago, IL 60654 ville Conference Co-Chairs Anne Byrn, Mindy city of Nashville with your sister Dames. Our (312) 280-4573 | [email protected] Merrill, and their team have amazing tours, right to vote was won nearly a hundred years Chapter Board Liaisons DREW FAULKNER speakers, and sessions that will keep you en- ago, but we still have plenty of work to do. I Culinary Instructor gaged and inspired throughout your hope to see you in October! 7407 Honeywell Lane stay. The entire Conference agenda Bethesda, MD 20814-1019 is planned with experiences uniquely Thank you for the privilege of serving as Home/Office 301-986-8540 designed with you in mind. And to your president. [email protected] STEPHANIE JAEGER top it off, our Nashville Chapter is offering an Ann Stratte Pear Tree Restaurant after-party on Saturday night at the infamous 1504 Appin Road North Vancouver, BC V7J 2T5 (604) 299-2772 | [email protected] GINA BURCHENAL This photo was taken on Gina's Kitchen Nancy Vienneau’s scenic 4036 Church Creek Point rooftop in April when the Largo, FL 33774 Nashville Board hosted me (512) 658-0338 | [email protected] for a potluck dinner. L-R: Immediate Past President Conference Co-Chair Anne HAYLEY MATSON-MATHES Byrn, Marylou Tate, Emily Owner/Culinary Consultant Frith, Conference Co-Chair 2333 Kapiolani Boulevard #3516 Mindy Merrell, Karen-Lee Honolulu, HI 96826 Ryan, President Ann Stratte, (808) 941-9088 | [email protected] Dee Patel, Nancy Vienneau, Executive Director Nashville President Erin GREG JEWELL Murray, Lisa White. President, AEC Management Resources P.O. Box 4961 Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 456-1851 x1 | [email protected] SUMMER QUARTERLY 2019 3 LINAR U Y C SUMMER SCHOOL Kären Jurgensen “Cookery means…the (Seattle) Seattle Culinary Academy at economy of your grandmothers Seattle Central College and the science of the Quillisascut Farm School modern chemist…” “Knowing takes John Ruskin, from The Boston School Cookbook knowledge” Kären Jurgensen’s The ten Dame educators introduced here are teaching culinary arts and pathway to deliciousness is deeply hospitality management on the cusp of a high-tech world that promises rooted in sustainability. As an instructor-chef at the robot chefs, intelligent ovens that read recipes, and haptic interfaces that al- Seattle Culinary Academy, she prepares students for low students to build on their sense of taste and texture in a virtual manner. the restaurant industry. She teaches fine dining theory If you forget to buy pasta—just print some with your 3D food printer! and practice in One World Restaurant—one of two While there’s no doubt that technology is intertwined with these indus- student-run restaurants with a global focus. She is also tries, the “low-tech,” hands-on, foundational cooking and management an instructor in sustainable food systems. skills that these experienced professionals share will never disappear. In 2004, Kären implemented sustainability coursework Culinary and hospitality courses today are grounded in tradition with at the academy, making it the first culinary program greater emphasis on global cuisines, nutrition, sustainability, food chemis- in the nation to embrace this type of initiative.