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fter an excursion into some the Maibock is a little darker and a newer, emerging, or little- little more bitter. However, other brew- known styles, I’m returning eries don’t have multiple offerings so A to talking about some old fa- this is just a single data point. vorites — in this case, Maibock, also When creating the BJCP style Helles known as helles bock. Before we talk Bock (style 4C in the 2015 Style Guide- about the beer, can we take a moment lines), we defined the range to include and talk about the name? I’ve seen a both versions. So while a single prod- lot of confusion over this subject, so I’d uct doesn’t define the style, we allow . . . I’m returning to like to give you some insight. for a range of interpretations that can Maibock means “May Bock” while include both versions. This reminds me talking about some old Helles Bock means “Pale Bock.” But a bit of talking about various strengths I’ve seen some people say, “Why isn’t of historical porters and stouts, where favorites — in this case, it called Heller Bock? – after all Bock the only time a difference mattered is masculine so it should use the mas- was when a single brewery was pro- Maibock, also known as culine form of the adjective.” Well, ducing more than one example. that’s true and false. Yes, Bock (mean- The BJCP Style Guidelines treats helles bock. ing “billy goat” in German) is indeed them as synonyms, but also allows for masculine, but we aren’t talking about Maibock being a more “fest-like” beer drinking a goat, we’re talking about that can be a bit more aggressive in MAIBOCK BY THE NUMBERS beer. In this case, Bier and Bockbier color and bitterness. However, I think (Germans also like to concatenate this distinction does not apply when OG: ...... 1.064–1.072 words) are neuter gender (neither comparing products from different FG:...... 1.011–1.018 masculine nor feminine). Hence, the breweries, as history will show. SRM:...... 6-11 correct adjective forms for Bier are also IBU:...... 23-35 neuter gender, so the Helles is used, HISTORY not Heller. Most homebrewers know the general ABV: ...... 6.3–7.4% I did research this when the Beer background of bock beer, in that it Judge Certification Program (BJCP) originated in the German town of Ein- Guidelines were revised in 2008, beck in Lower Saxony in the middle including having a long discussion ages. When Einbeck joined the Hanse- with a group of native German home- atic League in 1368, its well-regarded brewers and beer enthusiasts. It just beer found wider distribution due to goes to show you that you shouldn’t the connections afforded trading part- mess around with other people’s lan- ners within this commercial confedera- guages unless you’re prepared to be tion. Never mind that the beer that schooled. eventually became known as bock was OK, I bet you weren’t expecting likely a darker, top-fermented, wheat- that discussion; you wanted me to talk based ale. The only surviving brewery about Maibock vs. helles bock. That’s in Einbeck is Einbecker, who proudly also an interesting story, but without claim “Ur-bock” (original bock) on all quite the same grammatical certainty. their products. Most breweries seem to use the words Other forms of bock beer were de- interchangeably, but Einbecker in veloped later and in other parts of the Germany does have both a seasonal country. The stronger doppelbock is Maibock and a year-round helles bock associated with Munich and the frozen in their lineup. They are similar in most eisbock is best known in Franconia. Photo by Charles A. Parker/Images Plus Parker/Images A. Charles by Photo regards (OG and ABV, for instance) but But the source of bock beer in Munich
1 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved MAIBOCK ing temperature to rise to 50–52 °F necessary, allow to drop bright, then (5 gallons/19 L, all-grain) (10–11 °C), and ferment until com- rack. Prime and bottle condition, or OG = 1.065 FG = 1.014 plete. Rack and lager for 16 weeks keg and force carbonate. IBU = 28 SRM = 7 ABV = 6.7% at 32 °F (0 °C). Fine the beer with gelatin if INGREDIENTS necessary, allow to drop bright, then 7.5 lbs. (3.4 kg) Pilsner malt rack. Prime and bottle condition, or 3.5 lbs. (1.4 kg) Vienna malt keg and force carbonate. 1.5 lbs. (680 g) Munich malt 12 oz. (340 g) aromatic malt 1.6 AAU Hallertauer hops (first wort MAIBOCK hop) (0.5 oz./14 g at 3.2% alpha (5 gallons/19 L, extract only) acids) OG = 1.065 FG = 1.014 5.5 AAU Magnum hops (60 min.) IBU = 28 SRM = 7 ABV = 6.7% (0.5 oz./14 g at 11% alpha acids) 1.6 AAU Hallertauer hops (15 min.) INGREDIENTS (0.5 oz./14 g at 3.2% alpha acids) 7.2 lbs. (3.3 kg) Pilsner liquid malt 0.5 oz. (14 g) Hallertauer hops extract (0 min.) 1.5 lbs. (680 g) Munich liquid malt White Labs WLP833 (German Bock) extract or Saflager W34/70 yeast 1.6 AAU Hallertauer hops (first wort 3 ⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming) hop) (0.5 oz./14 g at 3.2% alpha acids) STEP BY STEP 5.5 AAU Magnum hops (60 min.) This recipe uses reverse osmosis (0.5 oz./14 g at 11% alpha acids) (RO) water. Adjust all brewing water 1.6 AAU Hallertauer hops (15 min.) to a pH of 5.5 using phosphoric acid. (0.5 oz./14 g at 3.2% alpha acids) Dissolve 1 tsp. of calcium chloride to 0.5 oz. (14 g) Hallertauer hops the mash. (0 min.) Mash in all malts at 131 °F (55 White Labs WLP833 (German Bock) °C) and rest for 10 minutes. Raise or Saflager W34/70 yeast 3 mash temperature to 145 °F (63 °C) ⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming) by direct heat or infusion with boil- ing water and rest for 15 minutes. STEP BY STEP Pull a thick decoction, raise the Add 6.5 gallons (25 L) of water in decoction to 158 °F (70 °C) for 20 the brew kettle; then heat to 158 °F minutes, raise to boil, boil for 10 (70 °C). Turn off the heat. Add the minutes, remix and hit 158 °F (70 malt extracts and stir thoroughly °C). The combined mash should now to dissolve completely. You do not be at 158 °F (70 °C), allow to rest for want to feel liquid extract at the 30 minutes. Pull a thin decoction, bottom of the kettle when stirring bring to a boil for 10 minutes, then with your spoon. Add the first wort remix to hit 170 °F (77 °C). Rest at hops, then turn the heat back on and mashout temperature for 15 min- bring to a boil. Boil the wort for 60 utes while recirculating. Fly sparge minutes, adding the remaining hops with 170 °F (77 °C) water, collecting at the times indicated. 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort. Add the After the boil, chill the wort to first wort hops to the kettle during 48 °F (9 °C), pitch the yeast, allow- sparge. Boil the wort for 90 minutes, ing temperature to rise to 50–52 °F adding hops at the times indicated (10–11 °C), and ferment until com- in the recipe. plete. Rack and lager for 16 weeks After the boil, chill the wort to at 32 °F (0 °C). 48 °F (9 °C), pitch the yeast, allow- Fine the beer with gelatin if
2 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved can be reliably dated to 1614, when on the low end and doppelbock on the BREWING INGREDIENTS Hofbräuhaus recruited a brewer from high end. AND METHODS Einbeck to brew beer for them. The Attenuation is important for most I checked back with the Bock classic brewery claims the beer is the same German lagers, which means that the styles book written by Darryl Rich- as when it was originally made (and beers finish relatively dry. This dryness man in 1994 to see how he described derived directly from the Einbeck beer is what makes them so drinkable in the ingredients and methods, and to of the time), which is one reason why quantity (I can’t imagine drinking a 1-L compare them to today. I was happy the Hofbräu Maibock is darker than mass of sweet beer). The impression of to see that his descriptions generally contemporary examples. At 7.2% and sweetness is often the palate tasting worked well, which I guess means 20 IBUs, Hofbräu’s version is called by malt flavor in the absence of balancing that they agree with my observations. them an “amber bock” and is a sea- bitterness. I was pleased to see that his research sonal beer they traditionally tap in the Since a helles bock has less malt included interviews with German brew- last week of April in time for the May richness than darker bock beers, hop masters producing the styles. celebrations. bitterness and flavor are normally sub- Richman says that soft water with Helles bock as a paler (golden) beer stituted. IBUs can go as high as 35 in low carbonates is essential, as this pro- is a more recent development that is stronger versions, but the impression duces a smooth, clean, refreshing beer not precisely known, but is believed of bitterness gives an overall neutral without harsh bitterness. He also talks to be contemporary with the interest hop-malt balance. Hop flavor can go about how the ingredients and process in golden lagers in the mid- to late- as high as moderate, but isn’t required. help produce the richer malt flavors 1800s. Most breweries making modern Typical German noble hop varieties without developing too much color. He versions tend to be producing the are most frequently used, giving floral, accurately calls this a tradeoff since deep golden versions, not the amber spicy, or herbal notes. many of the wonderful flavors from versions from Hofbräu and Einbecker; The quality of the malt is rich with darker bocks come from malts that these beers are lagers produced in doughy, bready, and lightly toasted push the color well past pale. accordance with the Reinheitsgebot, notes. It shouldn’t have a caramelly Decoction mashing is traditional or German Beer Purity Law. Beyond aspect, nor should there be any darker, (no more than a double decoction, Germany, Maibock is a popular style roasted notes. The malty character though) in developing the attenuation, produced on several continents by should dominate the aroma, flavor, and body, and maltiness in the beer. Step local brewers in the style of the golden aftertaste, although the flavor can fea- mashing is an alternative to decoction German versions. ture balanced bitterness. mashing for proper attenuation and While sometimes described as a body, but it doesn’t really do anything SENSORY PROFILE Munich helles brewed to bock strength, to increase the maltiness of the beer. The BJCP Style Guidelines summarize that doesn’t literally mean scaling a Using these more intensive mash pro- the style as, “A relatively pale, strong, helles recipe up — the maltiness is grams allows a more specific targeting malty German lager beer with a nicely richer due to a higher percentage of of enzyme activity, producing good attenuated finish that enhances drink- higher kilned malts, but it does mean attenuation through the beta-amylase ability. The hop character is generally that it retains the attenuation and rest and body through the alpha-amy- more apparent than in other bocks.” I drinkability of the lower-strength pale lase rest. think that really captures the overall beer. Decoctions encourage Maillard impression of the beer, while giving a The body of the beer is moderate, product development, which add to little bit of style comparison. Pale re- as is the carbonation. The overall im- the malty richness while introducing ally means pale in comparison to other pression should be smooth and clean a little deeper color. Boil times for de- bocks, so the color can go from gold with a restrained alcohol presentation. coctions should not be excessive, since to amber. As a lager, it should be quite The beer should not be overtly hot, deep color development is not wanted. clear and have a well-formed, persis- and any warming should be light. The I would keep the boil times to less tent head. fermentation and conditioning should than 15 minutes for this purpose. Being a bock beer helps define result in a clean beer without fusels, Traditional German malts are used, what strong means in context. By Ger- esters, aldehydes, or diacetyl. Any fruit- and include a healthy amount of Pil- man tradition, bocks are starkbiers iness detected should be malt-derived, sner malt as the base. The remainder (strong beer) that have a starting grav- not from yeast. is typically higher-kilned malts such ity of 16 °P (about 1.064). Stronger As with other German lagers, this as Munich and Vienna but crystal type bocks (doppelbocks) have a starting style is best when it is understated malts are rarely used (if so, they should gravity of 18 °P (about 1.072). Since — elegant, clean, impeccably crafted, be the paler varieties and used spar- the 2015 Style Guidelines allow for well-lagered, and unobtrusive. This ingly). I prefer to adjust the percentage both pale and dark doppelbocks, helles allows the quality of the ingredients of the richer base malts (like Munich, bock should start between 1.064 and to show themselves in the finished or sneak in some aromatic malt, which 1.072 with an ABV of 6.3% to 7.4%. product, and the beer itself to be nicely some liken to “Super Munich”) rather This helps differentiate it from festbier drinkable despite the strength. than use crystal malts.
3 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved Back in 1994, Richman recom- style is between two and six months, don’t like the taste of Ayinger, feel free mended half Pilsner and half Munich with modern practice favoring the to substitute one of my other yeast malt as the grist when decocting, and shorter conditioning. The old Ger- choices – all of them will give great increasing the Munich if not. This isn’t man guideline of one-week lagering results but the flavor will be slightly a bad place to start, but more malts are for every degree Plato of OG would different. I’m using the traditional available now so I like the complexity give a time of about four months. As fermentation and lagering regime de- that you get with a blend of Munich, a homebrewer, I don’t have the need scribed, with 50 °F (10 °C) for primary Vienna, and aromatic. Even a bit of to rush lagering so I like to give these and 32 °F (0 °C) for 16 weeks for lager- dark Munich (Munich II) might work. yeast the longer time to allow them to ing. I have never used a diacetyl rest Some say aromatic and melanoidin fully condition the beer and the beer to with these yeast strains, but if that’s malt are equivalent (I may have said naturally drop bright. Lagering should your normal process, it won’t cause any that once . . .) but I think melanoidin be conducted at close to freezing tem- harm. is too toasted for this style; it adds a peratures. I force-carbonate my beer, but I like dryness with too sharp a flavor for my the texture of the carbonation when palate. HOMEBREW EXAMPLE it’s applied slowly over time. Recently When I compared my recipes for My recipe actually fits fairly well with I’ve been setting my tank at 20 psi and helles, festbier, and Maibock, I found Richman’s original guidance and the letting it be absorbed slowly over sev- they often had similar ingredients but modern BJCP style description. I’m eral days (up to a week) without shak- in different proportions. The percent- looking for a middle-range beer that ing the kegs. The bubbles are finer and age of Pilsner malt decreased while is balanced but not too strong. I’m a the head seems more persistent. If you Vienna and aromatic increased; Mu- believer in traditional German mash haven’t tried it before, give it a go and nich held fairly constant in my recipes programs, so I use a double decoction let me know what you think. at around 13-15%. There is certainly program but try to avoid excessive room for experimentation in grist per- rests at protein rest temperatures. centages, but I think at least half the I use German malts in my beer grist should be Pilsner malt lest the (except for the aromatic malt, which beer seem too much like a darker bock. is from Belgium). A combination of Germans will use noble-type hops Pilsner, Vienna, Munich, and aromatic such as Hallertauer or Tettnanger, malts gives some complexity while while many American brewers will use having the maltiness I desire. The de- fresher local hops that have similar coction mash enhances the maltiness flavors, such as Vanguard, Santiam, and color, so the beer may be a bit Liberty, Crystal, or Sterling. I would darker than recipe software calculates. choose the freshest hops possible for I’m looking for a nice burnished gold this style, so I’d prefer fresh Vanguard color, stopping short of amber. to sketchy-looking Hallertauer. If a Hallertauer hops are most tradi- higher-alpha bittering hop is desired, tional, so I’m using them for their floral I would use a clean variety such as elegance. I’ve also used Tettnanger in Magnum. this recipe, which I think are a bit more The normal workhorse German spicy and can hold up against the rich lager yeast strains work well in this maltiness. I think Saaz is an interest- style. I favor those that do not produce ing choice, although I wouldn’t really significant sulfur and those that have want to use all Saaz – it would seem a a malty profile. My personal favorite bit too Czech for me. Magnum for bit- is the White Labs WLP833 (German terness, naturally; there isn’t a cleaner Bock) yeast, but I like the malty-rich bittering hop, in my opinion. beers from Ayinger, where this yeast I’m using my standard reverse was sourced. A cleaner yet still malty osmosis (RO) water as the base with yeast that works well is the Saflager the brewing liquor adjusted to pH 5.5 W34/70 strain (available as a dry yeast at room temperature. A little calcium from Fermentis, or as WLP830 (Ger- chloride in the mash helps the enzy- man Lager) yeast, or Wyeast 2124 matic reactions without affecting the (Bohemian Lager) yeast). Wyeast 2206 flavor too much. I like the rounded (Bavarian Lager) yeast is also a good mouthfeel that the chloride supplies. choice. Fermentation around To play up the maltiness, I choose 50 °F (10 °C) is traditional as ester de- the WLP833 (German Bock) yeast. If velopment is unwanted. I were utilizing dry yeast or splitting Traditional German lagering for this the batch, I’d go with W34/70. If you
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