A14 Puerto Rico - San Juan to Isla de Imray-Iolair e Vieques & Isla de Culebra CHARTS FOR THE EASTERN CARIBBEAN Compiled by DM Street Jnr ABOUT THIS CHART This chart has been compiled by D M Street Jr using official sources and additional information acquired during more than 50 years of cruising, racing, exploring, chartering and charting the eastern Caribbean on his 46’ engineless yawl Iolaire, built in 1905. He is the author of many yachting books and articles, first of which was ‘Going South’ Yachting, 1964. His Cruising Guide to the Lesser Antilles is regarded as ‘the book that opened the Caribbean to the cruising yachtsman and made bare boat chartering possible’. It is worth reading for its nostalgic view of the Caribbean in the IMPORTANT 1950s and ‘60s. Over the years it has been expanded to cover the entire eastern Caribbean, from the western end of Puerto Rico east and south through the islands to For the latest chart Trinidad, then westwards along the Venezuelan coast and offshore islands to Aruba. corrections visit Use Street’s Guides for interisland sailing directions, harbour piloting directions and www.imray.com interesting anecdotes about people, places and history. They are the only guides that cover all the anchorages in the eastern Caribbean. Patience Wales, editor of Sail , once said, ‘Circle in red all the anchorages that Street describes that are not in the other The information shown on charts is guides and you will have a quiet anchorage’. liable to constant change; Imray Street has also been in the marine insurance business with Lloyds since 1966, placing ensures that every chart is correct to insurance for yachts of all sizes and ages sailing in all parts of the world. Visit the printing date shown below. www.street-iolaire.com. Email [email protected]. The author and publishers believe that this chart is the most accurate and up to date Corrections received after this date available of the area it covers. It can, however, only remain so if mariners notify the may be downloaded from publishers of any inaccuracy or need for correction of which they may be aware. www.imray.com as Correction The pilotage information on this chart is taken from Street’s Guide to Puerto Rico and Notices. These are regularly updated the Spanish, US and British Virgin islands to which page numbers refer. It may be ordered from: and the website should be checked. Bluewater Books and Charts www.bluewaterweb.com Smartphone users Landfall Navigation www.landfallnavigation.com can link directly to Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson Ltd www.imray.com the Corrections Five popular sailing videos made in the late 1980s/early 1990s featuring D M Street Jr Notice for this chart are now available as DVDs. The most popular, Transatlantic with Street , the story of using the QR code. Iolaire’s 1985 transatlantic via Vigo, Madeira, Canaries, Cape Verdes has been highly recommended by Herb McCormick and Tom Cunliffe. TheSailingChannel.TV offers all five videos in one digital package, The Complete Street , at https://vimeo.com/ondemand/thecompletestreet

Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson Ltd Edition date: January 2007 Wych House The Broadway St Ives Corrected to October 2015 Cambridgeshire PE27 5BT England (ILNW 393/15) ✆ +44(0)1480 462114 Fax +44(0)1480 496109 www.imray.com

C a r i b b e a n

Bahia de S e a Electronic versions of this San Juan chart San Juan Imray charts are also available as apps for iPad and iPhone in Culebra raster format in the Imray Chart Fajardo Navigator series. The series also includes chart sets from official PUE RTO hydrographic offices.

RICO Search ‘Marine Imray Charts’ on the App Store.

Vieques

Patillas

1 north, the tides are diurnal (one tide a day). Pilotage notes by However, if you check very accurate tidal 1 gauges you will discover two tides, one DM Street, Jr Hr ZENITH major, a second one so small as to be barely T EAST IDE noticeable. Thus the tide tables refer to it as diurnal. 1 Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands area is Hr further complicated by the fact that on the

W south side of Puerto Rico and St Thomas, E

E D

I S

T T there is one tide a day, while on the north

T

T S

I side of both islands there are two tides a day; D

A14 Puerto Rico - San E E

W the east coast of Puerto Rico has two tides a day as do Vieques and Culebra. Juan to Isla de Vieques & 1 Hr During one part of the year, the highest Isla de Culebra tide is during the day, at other times it is

during the night. Schomburg, the Danish Customs and immigration in Puerto Rico are EAST TIDE very strict, especially regarding guns, make naturalist, explained that during the equinox NADIR sure you declare them. Clearance may be 1 (September and October, March and April) Hr made in Mayagüez ✆ 831 33 42/43 where the evening tide is the highest; the rest of you should go ashore and find customs and the year the daytime tide is the highest. immigration. Yachts should not go to WARNING Boqueron. When coming from the US Virgin Islands it The Caribbean is 0·4m to 0·6m lower in May, is necessary to enter, similarly when leaving June, July and early August than it is in

for US Virgin Islands you must clear, in both d winter. In these months, shoal channels into

e e cases customs only. e various harbours should be used with d p i S t l caution. Nanny Cay to Tortola, Jolly Harbour Note All foreign vessels arriving in Puerto r u e i g d o a

d to Antigua, Rodney Bay to St Lucia, Blue

Rico must first obtain a cruising permit upon n i f f e i e

t l

k e e Lagoon to St Vincent, and Secret Harbour/ n arrival and report to customs at every port of n g c o d p k k n i a

N Mount Hartman Bay, the Lagoon St Georges 1 call. S 1 t a T to Grenada do not have tide gauges and GENERAL CAUTIONS require particular care. It is also important to read the sailing and 90 4 1.83 2.83 3.83 Yachts are increasing in size and in pilot directions for the area concerned the 100 1.56 2.56 3.56 summer, especially at low water springs, night before, in order to plan the next day's 110 1.29 2.29 3.29 there have been incidents when large yachts run and calculate your departure to 120 1.0 2.0 3.0 have grounded, completely blocking the guarantee arrival at the next anchorage 90 5 2.54 3.54 4.54 channel for others. I have campaigned for whilst the sun is still high. 100 2.2 3.2 4.2 many years for gauges to be introduced to These are general sailing directions. When 110 1.87 2.87 3.87 prevent these incidents. approaching harbour, the relevant large- 120 1.5 2.5 3.5 HIGH WATER FULL AND CHANGE scale chart must be consulted. 90 6 3.25 4.25 5.25 Most of the Eastern Caribbean has been 100 2.84 3.84 4.84 The time of High Water at each location officially surveyed during the last 50 years 110 2.44 3.44 5.44 during full and new moons (full & change) but topography above and below the water 120 2.0 3.0 4.0 occurs at a set time after the meridian may well have been altered by natural causes passage of the moon for each location. such as volcanic eruptions, sandbank The time of the meridian passage for each If you plan your passages so that you have movement and coral growth amongst other day can be found in Nautical Almanac , and the flood tide helping you it can make a big things. This chart must, therefore, be used Compass magazine. difference to your sailing time. There is a with caution and prudence. Inshore brief rule of thumb method to follow. The eg Location X – HW F & C 2h30m (from the navigation should only be undertaken in tide starts running to the east soon after table on the chart) good light when the sun is high. Aids to moonrise, continues to run east until about Meridian passage at X for Y date is, say, navigation (buoys, beacons and lights) are an hour after the moon reaches its zenith 0200hrs (from Nautical Almanac and notable for their absence and/or (overhead) then it runs westward, Compass magazine) unreliability. reinforcing the westerly current. Then as the Thus HW on Y date will be at 0430hrs. HW Do not enter strange harbours at night. moon sets the tide again starts running to will be approximately 50mins later each TIDES AND CURRENTS the east, turning westwards again about an following day. hour after the moon passes its nadir (directly When heading westward, downwind, the underneath), see sketch. METEOROLOGICAL INFORMATION tide is not particularly important. But In the eastern Caribbean during the heading eastwards, especially in the Virgin The National Oceanic and Atmospheric winter months, the wind will vary from east- Administration’s National Data Buoy Center Islands, it is very important and playing the southeast to east-northeast, occasionally tide correctly can considerably reduce your operate a variety of stations throughout the going all the way around to north. The world. Eight such stations exist in the Eastern sailing time. current generally sets west at 1kn or more. When proceeding eastwards from Puerto Caribbean recording a wide variety of Thus the greatest problem encountered by meteorological information. Much of this Rico to the Spanish Virgin Islands it is the yachtsman new to the area is that of important to try and figure the tide and to data is available to the yachtsman via the letting his boat sag below the rhumb line NOBC website. Go to take advantage of it. It must be remembered course. At the end of the day, he may www.ndbc.noaa.gov/Maps/Caribbean and that beating to windward is slow. If you are suddenly realise that the anchorage is well click on the station you wish to access. tacking in 90° you must sail 1.4M for every to windward - a hard slog against wind and mile you go to windward, if tacking in 120°, tide. To avoid this situation keep a hand- Wind velocities from shore stations in the which knowing the average cruising man’s bearing compass handy and take continual Virgin Islands/Puerto rico and the entire helmsmanship and the windward-going bearings; if you cannot see the island ahead, eastern Caribbean area give little indication qualities of the average cruising boat is a take stern bearings. of winds expected offshore. The weather probable tacking angle, you must sail 2M to It is extremely important to allow for the buoys to the east of the islands will give a get 1M to windward. set of the current, which is made up of the good indication of weather and sea Doing 5kn against a 1kn foul tide, easterly wind-blown equatorial current, conditions to be expected in the islands progress will be agonisingly slow, whereas reinforced by the ebb tide or partially (and twenty-four hours later. Each year The with a 1kn fair tide, progress will be made. occasionally completely) negated by the Caribbean Compass publishes a list of radio Study the following table: flood tide. Tides in the Caribbean are stations and their schedules that broadcast complicated, but here follows a simplified weather information of interest to sailors in method for figuring tides that usually works. the Caribbean. The tides from Antigua south are semi- diurnal (two tides a day) but from Antigua

2 GROUND SWELLS The above is a jury rig that can be done Proceeding east from Florida with the material found on a bare boat. If When ground swells are expected on the you own your own boat, do a proper job as to Puerto Rico north coast of Puerto Rico, they are described below. predicted quite accurately on El Oso San Most skippers coming from the Miami or Fort Juan, Virgin Island news. Add roughly DOWNWIND RIG WITH JIB AND Lauderdale area end up island hopping through the Bahamas and then cruising twenty-four hours for the predicted ground MAIN swell to reach the southern end of the along the north coast of Hispaniola. This, Caribbean. This rig is for normal downwind sailing with however, is a long, time-consuming trip with On any beach open to the northwest as far the mainsail secured to leeward with a many reefs and some potential political south as Antigua, there is a danger of preventer on the boom and the jib poled out hazards in Haiti and the Dominican Republic. ground swell, especially if the beach ashore to windward. My advice is to go to Grand Bahama Island is quite steep and the sand very soft. I Key and wait for a northerly. After it hits Florida, strongly advise either a Bahamian moor or take off just as it is reaching the Bahamas - mooring bow-and-stern when anchoring the wind will be out of the north, coming off it. 1 straight off Grand Bahama, and the sea will If the ground swell comes in during the be smooth (or relatively so). It will blow you night when on a single anchor, it will pivot out through the Northeast Providence 2 the boat around in the surf and within a few 3 Channel, with eased sheets. minutes the boat can be driven ashore. 2 Instead of heading on a rhumb-line course Ground swells are completely to Puerto Rico, try to head due east or on a independent of the Caribbean weather course as close as possible to east - in order systems; they are generated by storms in the to get a good turn of speed. Hold this course 7 5 until the western end of Puerto Rico bears North Atlantic. The season is mid-October to 4 the end of March though very occasionally 6 180° mag, then bear off and head for ground swells will appear in April. Mayagüez. Enter Mayagüez and resupply For cruising, therefore, May is fine: no 1. Main boom preventer before heading south along the west coast hurricanes; no ground swell. June is also fine, 2. Lee spinnaker pole foreguy to Puerto Real, Boquerón, and then although there is still a risk of hurricanes. 3. Light line eastward along the south coast of Puerto July is good but watch out for hurricanes. 4. Headsail Rico, taking advantage of the night-time 5. Lazy sheet for headsail calm or northerly shift. The wind will BAHAMIAN MOOR 6. Working headsail sheet frequently come right out of the north, giving you a beam reach eastwards. You can Bahamian moor is useful if you are anchored 7. Foreguy work your way eastward in easy jumps and where there is a reversing tide that will The working sheet (#6) is run through the have a wonderful time doing so. overcome the wind when the tide is running end of the spinnaker pole. If the wind goes Ignore the north coast of Puerto Rico. The eastwards, or if you’re anchored off a beach too far forward for the headsail to be poled San Juan Trench, 1000 fathoms deep, is only that is exposed to the ground swell. If you to windward, this sheet is eased and the sail a few miles offshore, and the huge Atlantic are on a Bahamian moor you will swing in a trimmed to leeward with the lazy sheet (#5). swell coming up against this vertical wall circle that is equal to the length of the boat. makes Puerto Rico’s north coast very lumpy. Once anchored, back down with the This explains why marinas have been built on engine, slacking the anchor line or chain the east coast of Puerto Rico rather than in until you have veered (eased) plenty of scope San Juan - no one enjoys the 40M from San (line) then take a second anchor, carry it back Juan around the corner to Fajardo. to the stern, drop it, shorten up on bow anchor until you have the correct amount of WIND PATTERNS - PUERTO RICO scope, then take a strain on the anchor you have dropped off the stern (but lead the Puerto Rico is such a large land mass that it rode through the bow chock), and secure. creates its own land and sea breezes. As the Now that you have moored between two sun sets, the cold air begins to fall down anchors there is no danger of swinging from the mountains and creates a breeze off ashore when the wind dies out at night. the land. On the east coast of Puerto Rico in the winter, even the hard easterly trade wind dies off, so that by late in the evening or early in the morning, the wind is blowing west on the east coast. On the south coast, the trades are overcome even sooner, so that by 1800/1900, the wind is usually blowing from the north - an offshore breeze along Arc of Swing the south coast. On the west coast, it merely diminishes and becomes cool, but the breeze continues out of the east.

BAHAMIAN MOOR BOW AND STERN MOORING

RIG FOR DOWNWIND Take a spare line (spare sheet or dock line) at least the length of the boat, secure it to the end of the main boom, pull it tight and secure the line to the goose neck, coil and hang up the excess. Once underway and running downwind, broad off, free it from the goose neck, take it forward outside all the rigging through a bow chock and secure it to mooring cleat or anchor windlass. It is then almost impossible to jibe. Rig the headsail to a spinnaker pole of the opposite side, sail downwind wing and wing. If you do not have a spinnaker pole and the preventer is rigged really tight, a good helmsman can sail slightly by the lee and keep the headsail filled.

3 If you choose to stay close inshore during Sailing directions east from Sailing directions heading the night on the southwest and south coasts, you will frequently carry a north wind all San Juan east and north from Pasaje night and into the early hours of morning. Just a case of putting your head down and de Vieques As the trades pick up in the morning, they beating to windward. Dawn departure from are still influenced by the north wind, so that San Juan might mean you could work your Once past Cayo Santiago tack inshore to find close inshore the wind is from the northeast way east before the trades really begin to smooth water behind Pta Lima, you can rather than the east. blow. Stay close inshore to avoid the worst leave Arrecife Lima starboard, work your By making use of the land-and-sea breeze of the westerly current. way along the shore. By doing this you will on the entire south coast of Puerto Rico, you be out of the swell and the current. Work can work eastward much more easily than on SAN JUAN (pages 69-71) your way across Ensenada Honda staying inshore to avoid current and swell but keep the north coast. This major port presents no difficulties for chart A13, with the detailed inset of As the land heats up, it will start sucking the average yacht; it is the large steamers Ensenada Honda in front of you, or switch to the wind in from the cooler sea, shifting it to that have trouble when a ground swell chart A131, pass Isla Cabras and Punta Puerca the east, then, often, to the southeast. Once builds up. This was illustrated in December close aboard then continue until you reach headed on port tack, it’s time to tack back 1999 when a 20,000-ton Russian freighter the range to sail through Pasaje Medio inshore. Sometimes the trades will go to the ran aground and sank right under the fort at Mundo. southeast as the land heats up. If they do, the entrance to the harbour. The ships, of you will be able to take very long boards course, have the right-of-way at the channel Going north along the shore. entrance, so give them room for Pass northeastward of Punta Puerca. Bring Remember, though, that as all this manoeuvring. Be forewarned that you are the buildings of Gaviota Estates to bear happens, the wind velocity will increase - likely to lose your wind under Pta del Morro, 330ºmag. Stay on this range until Isla Cabeza 15kn at 1200, 20kn by 1400 and 25kn by so make sure the engine is running to allow de Perro disappears behind the southwest 1600. By 1900 you will find flat calm or a you to get out of the way of commercial tip of Isla Pineros, bearing 102ºmag then light northerly. Thus, it is well worthwhile to traffic. head up to bring Cabo San Juan light over leave before dawn, have breakfast Once past Morro, swing southeast on the middle of Isla de Ramos 005º-185ºmag. underway, reach the next harbour by noon, Anegada Channel, then swing up into San Once north of Punta Figueras bear off - and anchor before it really starts blowing. Antonio Channel. At the end of San Antonio course 350º mag until Cabo San Juan light In the spring of 1993, Iolaire worked her Channel, on the north side, is Club Nautico lines up with the low western building of way along the south coast by taking de San Juan, a private club that sometimes Isleta Marina - stay on this range 015º- advantage of the above-mentioned wind has slips available for visiting yachts. On the 195ºmag until into Isleta Marina anchorage. shifts. We anchored by noon and were starboard side is the new San Juan Bay If heading for Marina Puerto del Rey, stay amused each evening as we overheard crews Marina, with 150 slips. When approaching on the 005º range until the north end of the on boats that left their anchorages at 0900 the south side of the marina dock or the breakwater to the Marina Puerto del Rey and arrived at 1700 battered and bruised hauling bay, favour the north (pier) side of bears west, then run on in. and talking about the gale they had just the channel, as the south side, near the Heading south weathered. Start early! retaining wall, is shallow. The marina has a Once clear of Cabo San Juan, bear off run The best plan is to start in the evening or 60-ton travel-lift, and all slips have hookups down the coast; course about 200ºmag. early morning; around noon, when the for electricity, water and telephones. When you pass El Conquistador Hotel switch trades are starting up against you, duck into At the head of the dock are a commissary to chart A141. a cove and wait, lie about, swim, snorkel or and a marine store, but for restocking you’ll fish until the wind again goes around to the want to hire a taxi and go to a shopping NAVIGATIONAL WARNINGS EAST north. Or anchor for the night and head out centre (ask the marina staff which one is best COAST OF PUERTO RICO TO again the next morning. for your needs). The marina is within walking CULEBRA AND VIEQUES In the Mayagüez area, the wind direction distance (1 hM) of Old San Juan. It’s well When navigating between the western and velocity are somewhat different from worth spending at least a day exploring the coasts of Culebra and Vieques and the what you’re likely to encounter in the rest of old city and the El Morro fortress. eastern end of Puerto Rico, be very careful in Puerto Rico. The area is in the easterly The Bachman family, which runs the the western part of this triangular patch of tradewind belt, but the trades are drastically marina, has been in the boat business since water. All of the buoys are set up for affected by the size and height of Puerto the 1930s, so they can arrange for anything passages in and out of Ensenada Honda, the Rico. In periods of strong trades, you will that needs to be done on a yacht. There is an big naval base; they are not set up for experience the normal easterly winds, but in excellent marine supply store - Marine yachtsmen passing east or west. It is essential periods of light trades, as the land behind Dream - opposite the Capitol building in Old to keep the chart in front of you and your Mayagüez heats up, it begins to pull the San Juan. This is one of the better-supplied eyes open, as there are numerous well- cooler, over-water wind from the west. Thus, marine stores in the Eastern Caribbean, and charted but unbuoyed rocks that you can in the late morning you will encounter a certainly the best in Puerto Rico. Armstrong pile up on. If you do go aground, you will westerly wind that increases during the day Sails is directly above Marine Dream, and not be the first. - to the point that at 1600 to 1700 you may underneath it is a propeller and machine Also in this area, there are numerous find a 15 –20kn westerly onshore breeze and shop. They can also line up an electrician if unmarked dangers when heading for the a considerable chop. Come sunset, however, you need electrical repairs. northern passage to Isleta Marina, Marina the cold air will start falling down from the When leaving San Juan Harbour, the only Puerto Chico, or Villa Marina. Shoal-draught mountains, fighting the sea breeze, which option is to sheet her flat and bull your way boats have no problem, but boats drawing will die out and be replaced by a light, cool, east and south against wind and current to more than six feet can easily hang up on the offshore breeze. This breeze will then the Fajardo area. continue through the night and into the unbuoyed shoal Bajo Laja, bearing 326ºmag early morning, picking up if strong trades SMALL ISLANDS OFF THE COAST to Punta Gorda, 207ºmag from the buildings push their way through. In periods of weak (pages 57-63) at Isleta Marina, and 011ºmag to the trades, the easterly will die out and be These provide a wonderful selection of lighthouse on Cabo San Juan. If coming from replaced by a westerly sea breeze. anchorages, all very close together. Many are the north, the best way to avoid this is to On the north coast of Puerto Rico, a place secluded and uncrowded, except on favour the Puerto Rican shore until you reach to avoid if possible, the cool night air off the weekends. buoy No 3. Then feel your way to Villa land may minimize the trades but seldom Marina or Marina Puerto Chico. Or, if overcome them completely - close h mile or ISLA PINEROS, ISLA DE RAMOS, heading for Isleta Marina, leave buoy No 3 less at night and early morning you may find CAYO AHOGADO, CAYO RATONES, to port and feel your way in. If coming from the easterly trades have died off and the CAYO ICACOS (Use chart A141) the east, pass Fl.G. light buoy No 1 close westerly current has lessened. aboard to port, continue west until buoy No 3 bears south - do not head directly for buoy No 3, or you can clip the shoal that extends north of Isleta Marina - then jibe around and head south. Heading south Depart from Isleta Marina, put Cabo San Juan light above low Western building Isleta Marina 015º-195ºmag. Hold that range until Cayo Ahogada is abeam, then steer 170ºmag 4 until Cabo San Juan light is over the middle good restaurants specialising in sea food. It PUERTO DEL REY MARINA of the Isla de Ramos 005 °-185ºmag. Stay on is best to visit the harbour by dinghy from (page 66) this range until Isla Cabeza de Perro appears other marinas in the Fajardo area. This is Puerto Rico’s newest and largest from behind SW tip of Isla Pineros, bearing marina, with 1000 slips and long-term 102º mag. Then alter course to 150ºmag ISLETA MARINA (page 63) storage space for any size of yacht. It is the keeping the buildings of Gaviota Estates This was the first marina built on Puerto largest marina on the east coast of North or bearing 330ºmag. Hold this course or east of Rico’s east coast - a marina with a 50-ton South America and offers every facility. this course until Punta Puerca is aft of beam. travel-lift. There is ample room to work on boats, but there is inadequate space for The new extension of the breakwater on CAYO LOBOS long-term storage. Isleta Marina is sheltered the northeast side of the basin gives An anchorage can be had here in normal in all normal conditions, but when Hurricane complete shelter in all weathers and the conditions, but eyeball navigation is Hugo came through in 1989, it was marina now appears hurricane proof. The necessary. Ease your way in between the completely flattened. outer docks are high and as you proceed reefs and anchor bow-and-stern. This is a Isleta Marina is the only place on Puerto westward docks are lower but designed not private island, and you probably won’t be Rico’s east coast where you can anchor off. to go under water in a hurricane storm allowed ashore. There is space for 20 to 30 boats. If you are surge. at the western edge of the fleet, be The height from water level to the bottom ISLA PALOMINOS forewarned that there is a very strong of the lowest docks is 30’’ half tide winter This anchorage, frequented by weekending reversing current that runs north-south up to (note in May, June and July the Caribbean Puerto Rican yachtsmen, is approachable a maximum of 2kn. The best anchorage (if can be 18’’ to 24’’ lower) , measure your only during the daytime - two coral peaks there is space) is on the eastern side of the freeboard and rig your fenders and bresting- surrounded by deep water are located due harbour, tucked up behind the reef. out lines accordingly. west of the island’s highest land. The peaks On the western side of the anchorage you The marina has the infrastructure to rise to within three to five feet of the also suffer from the wash of the two ferries supply all the needs of yachts in the marina, surface. that connect Isleta Marina to the mainland. with hauling facilities and travel lifts from 38 The best way in is at the northwestern end and 165 tons. They also have large covered of the island, at Punta Aguila. Eyeball your VILLA MARINA sheds where boats can be worked on way southeastward, staying close to the (page 65) independent of weather conditions. Their shoal water. You will be safe, since the water This operation is primarily for powerboats, fuelling system for large yachts is excellent. drops off quite steeply through here. but there are a few sailboats. There is a 60- West Marine have opened a large Continue south until the dock roughly bears ton travel-lift, plus shops that will do warehouse in Fajardo ending the yacht east. Anchor with a Bahamian moor practically any work you might need. Fajardo equipment supply problem. There is also a between the dock and the shoal to the west. Canvas is the local North agent, and the drystack for small launches and a hurricane An alternate anchorage is just south of Skipper Shop has an excellent inventory of proof tie-down system for 200 boats. Punta Aguila. Remember, however, that the marine supplies. When approaching Puerto del Rey Marina current runs extremely strong here north- Be careful entering here, as the channel from the north, once past Isleta Marina, and-south, so you must be tucked right up goes dead to downwind and the slips are a stand southeastward behind Isleta Marina close to shore to anchor. Upon rounding tight squeeze when you bring in a sailboat. until Cabo San Juan light comes in over the Punta Aguila, stand eastward until Las top of the low western building of Isleta Cucarachas disappears behind Punta Aguila. MARINA PUERTO CHICO Marina, 015º-195º mag. Follow this bearing Drop a stern anchor, pay out plenty of line, (page 66) until you spot the reefs of Cayo Ahogado. and sail on until the bow is in three or four This is almost the same as Villa Marina, but Steer approximately 170º-350º mag until Isla feet of water. Then drop the bow anchor, it seems to have more slips available and de Ramos is abeam. The ends of the reefs at slack off its side, and take up on the stern caters more to sailboats. Although Villa Punta Barrancas and Punta Mata Redonda anchor so that you are moored bow-and- Marina and Marina Puerto Chico are both are marked with beacons; once past them, stern within swimming distance of the sheltered, the latter does not have the head southwest for the northern end of beach. If the wind is south of east (in the backup facilities of the former. But no Puerto del Rey Marina’s breakwater. summer), a good anchorage can be had on problem - just jump in your dinghy and make If approaching from the east, come in on the north side of Punta Aguila. the five-minute trip over to Villa Marina. a line of bearing of approximately 270º mag, Isla Palominitos, a few hundred yards Although these two marinas are both which will take you south of Cayo Largo. You south of Isla Palominos, has a good sheltered sheltered in normal weather, they were should pick up Lt buoy No.3 (Fl.G.2.5s) and anchorage on its west side. Eyeball your way death traps during Hurricane Hugo. Not only buoy No.4 - pass either side - remember that in and anchor with the island breaking about were the docks and sheds destroyed, but these are north-south buoys for the southeast. The reefs to the east of Isla almost all of the boats in them were deepwater channel, and can be disregarded Palominitos completely break the sea but demolished. A complete disaster. The metal- by normal-sized yachts. Then head for the not the wind. During the week, the island is covered sheds have now been replaced with north end of Puerto del Rey Marina’s deserted - a wonderful spot for a picnic or an metal framework covered with awning breakwater. evening barbecue. fabric. The assumption here is that if another hurricane blows through, it will tear away HEADING WEST FROM THE EAST LA BLANQUILLA AND CAYO the fabric and leave the framework. COAST OF PUERTO RICO DIABLO No problem, a real sleigh ride - but once you There is always a very strong current around SUN BAY MARINA round Cabo San Juan you will be sailing dead La Blanquilla, so it is impossible to anchor, Sun Bay Marina was established in 2005/6 downwind - so rig for downwind as but you might try taking a dinghy into but not included in the chart printed in 2007 described at the beginning of these notes. shallow water and diving around it. due to a lack of information. Cayo Diablo is a good daytime anchorage It is said that this is an excellent marina for diving only, provided the wind is well in with 282 berths for boats up to 60ft in length Sailing directions east from the north; it is no good if the wind is east or and with up to 7ft draft. The marina offers south of east. all the normal services of a first class marina east coast Puerto Rico EL CONQUISTADOR MARINA and is within walking distance of the village Use chart A141 until you are clear of the of Fajardo. The main town of Fajardo, shoals off the east coast of Puerto Rico. (page 63) meanwhile, is a taxi ride away. If powering, once clear of the shoals head The elegant old El Conquistador Hotel is now There appear to be 7ft in the outer slip, roughly due east to Culebra - if sailing tack operated as a service hotel for El with the basin shallowing as you get further up to Arrecife Hermanos and Arrecife Barilles Conquistador Marina. The marina is in. The marina is normally full of Puerto to try and obtain shelter from the ocean principally a base for sports fishermen. There Rican power boats leaving little room for swell - as you approach Culebra switch to there is little space for visiting yachts and it visiting yachts except at weekends when the chart A131. provides poor access to Fajardo due to the local boats disappear to neighboring islands When entering anchorages on these circuitous road and expensive taxi ride. Before entering contact via VHF ch 16, islands it is recommended that the detailed LAS CROABAS (page 63) )787 863 5282/863 0313. chart A131 is used. However, if you are an experienced eyeball pilot and have good Formerly a sleepy little fishing harbour with light conditions the directions below cheap hauling facilities for boats drawing 6ft directions may be sufficient. or less. The fishing fleet is still there, but the anchorage is crowded. The shore line has 5 Culebra (pages 76-80) of east, you are getting good shelter from PUNTA MELONES Cayo Verde. However, this puts you farther Just north of Punta Melones is a good APPROACHING CULEBRA from town. Boats looking to get away from anchorage with a white-sand bottom. The When approaching Culebra, especially from heavy weather are likely to stick up into small beach is very crowded at weekends, St Thomas, note that the shoals of Bajo Ensenada del Coronel and Ensenada del when Puerto Ricans arrive in droves, but Grampus are not shoal enough to cause the Cementerio (the real hurricane holes are up during the week, you should find it deserted. average yacht any problem except in periods by San Ildefonso, north of Punta Cabras). of heavy weather. Least depth 18ft. When Needless to say, if you examine the chart, BAHIA TAMARINDO the ground swell is rolling in, seas will hump Ensenada Santiago also provides a place This excellent anchorage is likely to be better up over these shoals and occasionally break, where you can tuck a boat in. Ensenada in winter and early spring than in summer. making it a very rough passage. Honda is not a good hurricane hole, because When the wind goes to the southeast in you need to be right up in the mangroves. If summer, it will probably funnel up between ENSENADA HONDA Use chart A131 you are not in there when the hurricane Culebra and Cayo de Luis Peña. When approaching Culebra en route to passes by, the wind clocks around and you I haven’t visited the anchorages north of Ensenada Honda, be very careful to stay can end up having as much as 5M of fetch. Punta Tamarindo Grande but Alan Maubery, south of the buoys that mark the reefs and That much fetch, backed up by 100kn of who runs a dive boat out of Puerto del Rey shoals south of the island. It is all too easy to wind, guarantees that no anchor will hold. Marina, reports that the little cove north of find yourself in the shoal water south of Plus, with the number of boats that will have Punta Tamarindo Grande has a beautiful Arrecife Culebrita. The course from St crowded into the harbour, someone is bound white-sand beach and room for three boats. Thomas is approximately 260º mag. If the to be dragging down on you. So forget it. It is an excellent anchorage, but only in weather is good, you can pick up buoy No.2 One of the best anchorages in Ensenada summer, as it is open to the winter ground and follow the numbered buoys straight up Honda is between Punta Colorada and swell. into the harbour. If conditions are bad, Ensenada Dakity. It benefits from absolutely however, I recommend continuing calm water thanks to the reef to windward CAYO DE LUIS PEÑA southwestward until you have left to which breaks the swell leaves the wind to During summer, when the brown boobies starboard the flashing red buoy marking come whistling across the top of the reef. are nesting here, access is restricted. In Bajo Amarillo. Then lay a course of The water is crystal clear, the bottom is white winter, there are a number of good approximately 030ºmag and run in between sand, the holding is excellent, there are no anchorages. One of the nicest is the cove in the buoys and on up to the town of Culebra bugs - this is certainly one of the better the southeast corner of the island. Sail in (formerly called Dewey). anchorages in the Caribbean. between the reefs, but only if you are a good If you are approaching from St Croix, no The entrance to Ensenada Dakity is from eyeball navigator and have a fairly small problem. Lay off a course for the Bajos the north, by Punta Colorada. In February boat 30ft or under). Alternatively, go in Grampus No.2 lightbuoy (Fl.R.4s), allowing 1993, when we scouted the eastern entrance under power, round up, and anchor behind for the westerly set of current, which will from the dinghy, we reached the conclusion the south reef. Only one or two boats can fit become more northwesterly as you near that you might be able to power out in here but you’ll find excellent reef Culebra. Take cross bearings on Savana Island through there with a good engine, but only snorkelling and a good beach. A short walk off St Thomas, which will give you a good a madman would run downwind through to the western side of the peninsula (be sure indication of when to start looking for the that entrance. It is possible to go from to wear shoes) takes you to a glorious sand Grampus buoy. When you pick it up, don’t be Ensenada Dakity to Ensenada Malena inside beach. There is also an anchorage off the confused. It is number 2, the same buoy the reef in a shoal-draught (3ft or less) boat. beach - mixed sand and rock. Be sure to number as the one at the south end of There is good swimming and snorkelling in anchor in the sand. Arrecife Culebrita. If conditions are good, the area between the two harbours. On the west side of Cayo de Luis Peña , head for buoy No.2, then Canal del Este. If Ensenada Malena is not as good as it may north of Punta Cruz, is another anchorage. conditions are bad, do as for the St Thomas appear on the chart. The entrance is wider During the summer, there are excellent approach. than that of Ensenada Dakity, so it does not anchorages on the northwest side of the When leaving Ensenada Honda through give enough shelter. Plus, around the shores island. During the winter, however, Canal del Este and turning northeast into of Ensenada Malena are numerous small anywhere along the northwest shore is open Canal del Sur, pay attention to the buoys and houses, whereas there is nothing except a to the ground swell. Most boats anchor on use careful eyeball navigation, because the few boats in Ensenada Dakity. the southern side of the northwest cove, area is littered with coral heads. WEST COAST OF CULEBRA AND anchoring in the northernmost corner of In normal conditions, Ensenada Honda is ISLANDS TO THE WEST that cove is highly recommended. an excellent harbour. You can anchor CAYO DE AGUA anywhere you want to, and you will be fine. Use chart A131 (pages 80-81) Of course, many boats want to be close to Due north of Punta del Soldado, in an Half a mile west of Cayo de Luis Peña, Cayo the town of Culebra, so they will anchor near unnamed bay, is an excellent anchorage. The de Agua provides good shelter in normal Cayo Pirata. If you wish to be farther away beach is gravel rather than white sand, but conditions, when an anchorage can be had from town, you can anchor in other corners as long as the wind is in the east or north of in the cove on the south side of the island. of the harbour. Be forewarned that you east, it should be fine. ( Iolaire did not anchor Depths are two fathoms; use two anchors won’t be able to sleep late if you anchor in here, but we explored it by dinghy.) As you and dive to make sure they are secure; if you Ensenada Honda - the commuter flights start continue northwest from Punta del Soldado, drag off the shelf, the anchor will hang arriving and departing at dawn. you can anchor almost anywhere on the straight down. Clearance in Culebra is dead simple. The shelf. There are shingle beaches, but no sand CAYO LOBO easiest way to get there is to take your beaches until Punta de Maguey. In stable conditions, when it is not blowing dinghy to one of the derelict docks in the Behind Bahía Linda is a small anchorage hard, an anchorage can be found in the cove northwest corner of the harbour and tie up where only one or two boats could squeeze on the southwestern side of Cayo Lobo. the boat. Then walk two minutes to the in. On the eastern side is a small sand beach. Again make sure you are well anchored - if main road and another five minutes to the BAHIA DE SARDINAS you drag off, your next stop will be Puerto airport for a quick, painless clearance. Rico. Due south from Cayo Pirata appears to me This bay on the south side of the town of to be the best anchorage within Ensenada Culebra (Dewey) provides a good anchorage CAYO LOBITO Honda. It is readily accessible to town, the in two fathoms of water. Be careful of the detached rock northwest of Punta Tampico. In late spring and summer ( not in winter), an water is clean (but not clear), yet it is far anchorage can be had in 18ft, sand bottom, enough offshore not to have a bug problem. You can get from here into Ensenada Honda, but it is strictly a dinghy passage. It has been between the cove on the north end of Cayo Farther to leeward, the water begins to run Lobito and south of Cayo Tuna. On the out. The farther west you go, the greater the dredged out several times, but each time it has filled in again. This is the commercial western side of the island, due west of the fetch and chop when the wind pipes up. It is light, there is also an anchorage. Again, be interesting to note that the wind funnels port for the ferry that connects Culebra and Puerto Rico. On the south side of the bay are sure you are properly anchored. Diving is between the hills on both sides of the excellent around the island. harbour and increases in velocity as you get some attractive sand beaches - not farther in. It blows 5kn more off Cayo Pirata completely isolated, however, as there are than it does behind the reef southeast of houses along the shore. Punta Colorada. Some boats like to anchor behind Cayo Verde, which means that if the wind is north

6 North coast of Culebra and grass, so holding may not be too secure. commercial pier. There is a fuel dock that A couple of handsome houses overlook the sells diesel and gas, reputedly with 10ft (pages 81-82) Use chart A131 beach. One could have been pulled out of alongside. Gas bottles can be filled at the BAHIA FLAMINGO, BAHIA DE Aspen, Colorado and dropped in the tropics; Esso garage, and cube ice is available. A few MAREJADA AND BAHIA DE OLEAJE the others are of typical West Indian design, grocery stores carry the basics, but this is no with big porches. place to reprovision. Behind the beach is a salt pond, which Overlooking the town is a star-shaped fort makes me suspect that Bahía Mosquito is - the last bastion built by the Spanish in the Southeast coast of Culebra well named, so do not anchor close to shore. New World. Construction began in 1843. Use chart A131 Try to find some clear sand for good holding. There are higher hills around it, so it is hard to spot from the sea, which should have ISLANDS TO THE EAST (page 82 ) PUERTO DEL MANGLAR (page 81) made it very vulnerable. Nowadays, the fort There is an anchorage on the north side of CAYO NORTE houses a museum of art history and the Vieques archives. Puerto del Manglar, but it is exposed to the I have not visited this little island, but I have easterly swell, with a good fetch. A couple of Punta Mulas lighthouse is undergoing flown over it, and it looks as though there restoration and will also become a museum. boats are on permanent moorings there, and should be good anchorage on the shelf in the dock is nice, but the head of the dock has the southeast corner of the island in late CABALLO BLANCO (page 83) a huge sign saying ‘Private Property. No spring and early summer - as long as the Northwest of Isabel Segunda, this islet Trespassing’. wind is east or north of east. Further, in appears to be a good daytime anchorage. It The head of the bay is shallow and summer, when there is no danger of the has a beautiful reef and a white-sand beach surrounded by mangroves. The western side ground swell, there should also be a good and is deserted. It’s definitely off the beaten has a cove called Punta Muleros which is anchorage behind the southeast corner of track and a worthwile day stop. It might completely enclosed by mangroves - among Cayo Sombrero (between Cayo Sombrero even be a good overnight anchorage in calm the largest I have seen outside of Los Aves in and the shelf between Cayo Sombrero and conditions - as long as you were rigged to Venezuela. Unfortunately, most of these Cayo Norte). However, I definitely advise a get out in a hurry if you had to. giant trees are dead. There is a good 5ft of bow-and-stern anchor in case the current If you are approaching Vieques from the water almost all the way up to the head of runs to windward over the shelf at the west, be very careful of the extensive shoals Puerto Muleros; this ought to be a good spot change of tide. These anchorages should be - Escollo de Arenas - 8M west of Isabel for fishing fans. strictly for reef pilots who are interested in Segunda. You can avoid them by sailing with Entering Puerto del Manglar is dead exploring. chart in hand and taking careful bearings on simple. Just sail by the entrance, heading the numerous buoys in the area. Keep a north or south, and the entrance will open CULEBRITA watchful eye until you are clear of the naval up. Run on in. If heading southwest into A protected anchorage may be found in the pier. West of the pier, it is clear sailing. Boats Bahía de Almodovar (see below), jibe over cove on the northwest side, but it is drawing five feet or less can sail across and pass between the red and green stakes completely exposed to the ground swell in Escollo de Arenas, and deeper-draught boats marking the two sides of the channel. Pass winter, so it can be very uncomfortable. Be can also do it if they are navigated skillfully. midway between them. This channel carries sure to anchor bow-and-stern so that if the The current scours the sand and moves the about 12ft. Once inside, anchor wherever ground swell comes in you will not swing channels in this area, so the charts must be you desire. around and end up on the beach. If you read with appropriate caution. The water is BAHIA DE ALMODOVAR equip yourself with shoes, long-sleeved shirt, not clear, so eyeball navigation is not long pants, hat, and machete, you can cross Without doubt, this is one of the finest reliable. If you draw more than 5ft, I the low land to a beautiful beach on the recommend that you go around the anchorages in the entire Eastern Caribbean - windward side of the island. In March 1994, clear water, white-sand bottom, and a reef northwestern corner of Escollo de Arenas while flying low over the area we spotted heading northwest until Isla Cabritas bears to windward that breaks the sea. We were the path. lying there in 20kts of wind with nothing but 025º mag and then turn south toward Punta The best anchorage is off the ruined docks Arenas. a small chop! During the week, the due west of the lighthouse. The bottom anchorage is most likely to be deserted. comes up very steeply here - from 70ft to There is excellent snorkeling on the reef to 16ft - so make sure you don’t drag off the windward. Tiny Isla Pelaita has a couple of shelf. Use two anchors and dive down to be Eastern end of Vieques quiet little beaches, ideal for skinny dipping, sure they are well buried. This anchorage is (north coast) but stay away during the summer, when it is sheltered from all directions except due a bird refuge. (Signs are posted.) Brown south or southwest - uncommon wind BAHIA ICACOS boobies fly all the way from the Galápagos directions - and is best if the wind is east or Navigate with great caution along the to nest in huge flocks in the small islands north of east. It gets a little lumpy if the wind eastern end of the north coast. We have around Culebra and Vieques. is south of east. explored the area in Iolaire and also by The ‘islands’ northwest and northeast of A climb to the lighthouses is well worth dinghy, and have updated this chart Isla Pelaita are in fact reefs that only break the effort, since you get spectacular views accordingly. There are many hazards, some the surface at low, low water in the summer. westward to Culebra and Puerto Rico and still uncharted. Sail only in good light. One Leaving Bahía de Almodovar is no eastward to the Virgin islands. It is a hot particularly bad spot is the area west of problem, but if the wind is in the southeast, climb, so take water. Go early in the day, Bahia Icacos, between Roca Cucaracha and be prepared to throw in three or four quick since the Culebrita mosquitoes come out the Vieques, where there are numerous tacks as you leave Puerto del Manglar. A fair- minute the wind dies. uncharted coral heads. size bobble can build up at the entrance to West of Culebrita is a shoal called Tierra a Without a doubt, this is one of the finest the harbour, making tacking a bit difficult if Medio, which has great fishing. Row the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. The one is not prepared. dinghy out, anchor and dinner will be easiest entrance is from the west, on a course You can take a dinghy southwest around forthcoming. of roughly 142° mag on the 147ft high hill Punta del Viento to an unnamed bay where on the eastern end of Vieques. It's wise to there is good snorkeling, but there is Vieques have a good reef navigator at the bow. The absolutely no anchorage in this bay. The entrance is narrow, but you can sail through. water is much shallower than most of the old (pages 83) Use Chart A131 The last time we were here, the wind was charts indicate. way around in the south. We could not lay Avoid this harbour at weekends as it ISABEL SEGUNDA (page 83) the channel, yet the heavy, old, engineless becomes crowded and noisy with power Iolaire tacked four times between the outer boats. When approaching Vieques from the east, it will be necssary to gain entrance to Puerto reef and Isla Yallis. We anchored in the BAHIA MOSQUITO Rican waters at Isabela Segunda. The town is middle of the bay. The reef on the eastern side of Cayo Icacos extends northwest As long as the wind is north of east, this is a unspectacular but the harbour is a good toward Isla Yallis. This is excellent, in that it good place to anchor away from it all. There anchorage when the wind is in the gives double shelter with two reefs to break is nothing much in the way of beaches, but southeast, but the combination of a any swell coming in from the north. We were there should be good snorkeling behind northerly wind and the ground swell will anchored here when it was blowing a full Punta Vaca. We have explored Bahía make it uncomfortable. The anchorage, 20 –25kn out of the north, and we had Mosquito in Iolaire’s dinghy, and the shelter which can be rocky and rolly, is off the small nothing but a small bobble in the harbour. appears to be good. The anchorage is in sand pier between Punta Mulas and the We were on two anchors. We did drag 7 slightly before they set, but once set, all was well. Holding is good on a white-sand bottom, no grass. It is possible to pass between Isla Yallis and Punta Icacos, but I estimate that the channel has only 6 or 7ft, whereas there was a full 14ft through the channel north of Isla Yallis. We did not sail or sound the eastern channel, but from the bosun's chair on Iolaire's masthead, the water depths looked about right. I would not enter via the eastern channel, however, as it means running dead downwind. The only time I would do that is in the morning in light air and on a boat with an engine. PUERTO DIABLO See Chart A141 Iolaire did not go into this cove, but we explored it in the dinghy. Puerto Diablo is a one-boat anchorage only in summer, when the wind is out of the south. There is a nice sandy beach. PUERTO NEGRO I have not anchored in Puerto Negro and indeed have not even been able to find out whether it is a possible anchorage. If it is, it would be usable only in summer.

EASTWARDS FROM PUERTO RICO TO THE VIRGIN ISLANDS If you are going eastward to the Virgin Islands, take a break at one of the many anchorages in Culebra or Culebrita, or in one of the anchorages on the eastern end of Vieques. Then slog your way eastward into the Virgin Passage. Be prepared for some steep, high seas here, especially during flood tide, when the current opposes the tide. This is one of these situations, eventually experienced by all sailors, when you must simply pull your head in and slog it out. Remember, though, that you don’t have to sail all the way to St Thomas Harbour in one shot. You can duck in and anchor in Brewers Bay or behind Saba Island, have a good night’s sleep, and continue on to St Thomas the following morning. See notes for chart A2. Alternatively, take off from Culebra, Culebrita or the eastern end of Vieques for St Croix. See chart A2 for course distances and sailing directions. Be sure to time your arrival in Christiansted for daylight. Before entering Christiansted harbour, carefully read the piloting directions for chart A234 or, if you do not have that chart, the piloting directions for A2 or A23. However difficult the return trip, I consider a cruise through the Passage Islands time well spent, especially for anyone who has become familiar with the Virgins and is casting about for new territory to explore. The people are friendly, the food inexpensive and the anchorages quiet and secluded.

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